P1 OEERS! Through the battle, through defeat, moving yet andnever stopping, Pioneers! 0 pioneers! Walt Whitman, YloneersITh Uc'Ji-ioneers-i--is Table ofcontents

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'Thebest people The Siletz God ever made' 2 Indians 16

- - Oregon Agricultural College 6 Curator of a most private museum 8

A 'surfman' r remembers 11 -----' -r---__:,2--- -

Philomath College 14 Ji ' floskins: a fort 20

- - that couldn't 24

A Eddyville's Eddy 26 A window on Chautauqua is coming 28 the river 23 'The best people Godevermade' by Judy Carlson In the fall of 1852. / with others began preparing for it. First, twenty-one wagons had to to talk of the Oregon Country and the longer be made, then the oxen and horses chosen, and we talked about it the bigger it got. So those finally the necessary provisions collected. of us that had the fever. when we would meet each other, that would be the first thing to Provisions of flour, bacon, beans, sugar. talk about ... all we knew about Oregon salt, sea biscuit and such like were packed in would be when someone would come back long sacks and loaded in the lower deck of by that time it would go through a half the wagons; while the lighter provisions, such dozen hands... the virgin grass would grow as had to be gotten at three times a day, a so tall in the great Willamette Valley that a medicine box for each family and the bedding man on horse back could tie it over his head and clothing were placed on the upper deck. as he would ride through it. and that the cat- tle would get so fat that the tallow candles Leaving on April 4th, 1853, the wagon train would grow out on the ends of thefr horns. made its way slowly across the plains, the desert and that it wasn't necessary to p/ow up the and over the mountain range arriving near ground only once in eight or 10 years, and the Silverton, Oregon early in October. Although grain would volunteer right along and reap a their passage was safe and losses minimal, bountiful crop, and that the timber grew so Henkle recorded this: tall that you had to look twice up to see the The bright anticipations we started with tops of the trees.. . Oh, this was too much from Iowa began to fade when we would stop for a young fellow of 27 years. a young wife at a green plat of grass to allow our poor cat- and two lovely children. tle to graze and someone would come out and command us to move on, saying it was Jacob Henkle Jr. dreamed this dream of their grass. Oregon Country and followed it the next year. Leaving most of the party encamped near Three brothers and their families, parents Jacob Silverton, Henkle and two others searched the and Anna Henkle Sr., and six other families valley for land still open for homesteading (the (King, Barker, Walker, Goodlin, Montgomery, federal government offered 320 acre land options and Wood) joined young Jacob on that long for every adult). The homes selected were in journey west. The winter of 1852-53 was spent Pleasant Valley (three miles south of Philomath

2 on Rock Creek) and the entire party arrivedon presence, to pull visitors into this Henkle family Christmas Day to "camp in our new homes." history as if it was their own. Time has passed since that memorable day "When Jacob and Anna came across the in April when they had turned their backson safe- plains, they had a stove fixed up in their covered ty and security and certain comforts. Whether wagon because they were old," she says. "They Oregon lived up to their many expectations, the had all kinds of conveniences - like horses to reader can only guess. The Henkles joined with draw their wagon, rather than an ox team. I had others to tame a rugged land, builda new town to laugh, because he was in his 60's and she in her and live a decent life. 50's...that's not so old." They stayed and built and married and mul- In recalling her own early years, she points tiplied. In this year of 1975, the Henkle descen- out how her father, a Methodist minister, kept dants number in the hundreds from that single the family on the move: "My Dad preached a wagon train. while and moved and preached and moved, so we One of their number is Florence Mason lived in so many places. It wasn't until Dad Smith, descended from Jacob Henkle Jr.on her wanted us in better schools that we moved back mother's side. She is the daughter of Emma to Philomath." There she and her family stayed, Shipley (daughter of Rachel Henkle Shipley, the until her graduation from the college in 1910. second eldest daughter of Jacob) and Rufus Those were family years spent with Henkles, Mason. She was born in1891in Creston, Shipleys, Masons, and other relatives who were Washington. early settlers too. Florence knows the family history and has In recalling her extended family, Florence made efforts to preserve and enlarge it. She singles out Jacob Henkle Jr.: "To me, Grandpa stepped down as President of the Henkle Family Henkle Jr. was completely special. He never was Association several years ago after serving 12 down deeply glad that he left the comforts of the years. east, but awfully proud of the fact that they At 84, Florence Smith is able toweave helped build a new country. He felt it was quite through the family history pulling threads from an achievement to see the towns grow, and the here and there, and buttoningup the gaps without churches grow and the schools grow- and all a moment's hesitation. She has the facts at her these young people be educated; it was an in- fingertips,the intelligence,and an aura of spiration to anybody to talk with him."

3 After deliberating, we decided we would ed over to the State. which is now Oregon build a saw-mi/I as there was nothing of the AgriculturalCollege (now Oregon State kind, and we wou/d have better houses to live University). in. In the spring of '54 we commenced work Our little mill furnished lumber, which road (old We had to dig a race to bring the water to the we hauled, to cover bridges on this place we wanted to set the mill, a half mile road to Vaquina Bay). So the mill had its part in building Vaquina Road. long. We sent lB. (Ichabod) to Oregon City to Jimmy Connor, the adopted son of T.J. Con- get the mill irons, while the rest of us went to nor (who named Philomath) wascited by digging the mill-race. And when we got the Florence as another example in her early life. mill-race done, we shouldered axes and broad Nancy axes and went into the timber to hew the "He married my grandmother's sister timbers forthe frame of the mill.By Henkle," she explains. "He was a minister and a very wonderful man. I somehowadmired him November we had the mill running. .. If we got 3,000 feet in 24 hours we thought we and Aunt Nancy so very much, were doing well "Christina Barker also made a great impres- Now this little mill did its part in furnish- sion on me," she continues. "She was totally school houses and blind, you know (Christina was blinded by swirl- ing lumber. .. Bridges and I churches were built here and there in the ing alkaline dust crossing the desert). county, and this little mill had a part. remember one time - it was threshing season, Later on, TJ. Connor sprung the College and Christina asked me to go out and watch the (Phiomath) proposition. Of course there were threshing with her. And I thought to myself, red hot speeches made on how badly we blind? Well, we went, and she said to me, 'Child. needed such a school. Our children would be come here - aren't the treeswonderful and held up before us. that they were growing up everything smells so good; it's great to be alive.' among the Indians. This was all calculated to I decided she was blind, but she seemed to see warm up the blood to fever heat. So the little things just the same. You know, I had the exam- mill had its part here too. I remember that we ple of all these fine people." went into the timber, felled the trees and put The Henkles have been gathering with them through... We worked day and night to friends and relatives every summer for over 50 make lumber as fast as the carpenters years to pray, potluck and visit. Florencemakes wanted it. an effort to be there to shareher favorite This little mill also had a part in building memories. At this year's reunion, she read from up Corvallis.The Southern Methodists Grandpa Henkle's diary, adding her own com- ments when she thought necessary and answer- wanted to build a school there. So .. . they built a school in which this mill had to take a ing questions as they arose. part. It was run for a few years and then turn- The reunionistraditionally held at the

Florence Mason Smith, 1975 Florence Mason. 1910 United Brethren Church, adjacent to Philomath vatory, the college offered liberal arts, teachers College. The Henkle descendants are proud of the certificates andreligioustraining.Florence college (now in the process of being restored). began in the Liberal Arts course, but switched to They subscribed to build the college (at a cost of teacher's training her last year. $17,500). Wooden beams and planks were fur- Following graduation, Florence wnt to her nished by the Henkle saw mill. Bricks used in the sister's assistance in the Coos Bay area. "I building were baked from clay, dug from pits thought that was the craziest place I had ever located in the front of the building. They sent seen - there wasn't a road anywhere; you had to their children to learn and others to serve. Jacob go by boat everywhere," Florence remembers and Jeremiah E. Henkle were elected to the laughingly. Board of Trustees (J.E. Henkle served from 1889 Thomas Smith was the first young man she to 1927). The college with its strong religious af- met in Coos Bay. Six weeks later, Florence filiation was closely tied to their everyday lives. returned to Philomath engaged. The Smiths have At one point early in the college's existence, lived on the Coos River 63 years since their the issue of whether secret societies should con- marriage in 1912. tinueinthe United Brethren Church,split Florence looks back over those years families into a liberal camp and a radical one. philosophically: "We've had our sorrows and a Since the college was directly tied to the U.B. lot of ups and downs - we remember the Depres- Conference which was feuding on the East coast, sion;those were tough times financially.I the college doors were temporarily closed in the started teaching steady when my youngest was in 1890's. school because we had bought this ranch and Florence remembers the split well: "The times were hard. One month we had $7 to live on, Wyatts were radical and the Hinkles were mostly one month we had $3.I taught before I was liberal (allowing society membership) and all in married too, you know. In Catching Inlet, and one family, so it was very, very bad. I remember Gravel Ford, where the mud was up to my knees Bishop Wright (father of the Wright Brothers) and in Coquille Valley, where my Dad was a was head of our local conference before the split, minister. On Catching Slough, I had 40 pupils in and then Bishop Castle. Bishop Castle met us at nine grades. I taught all my younger brothers and the church door upon our return to Philomath and sisters and my own three children. Someday I'll said to my father, 'Oh, I'm so glad you've come write a book (about those early days) - I've back; you can help us with the disruption in this always wanted to write that." church.' My Dad quickly agreed. The college In looking back, Florence may share a few of became a part of my life right there." the same sentiments expressed by Jacob Henkle Over 6,000 students entered the halls of Jr. in his diary: Philomath College before its closure in 1929 for financial reasons. With a separate Music Conser- / spent all my living for an outfit to cross the plains. / had a very faint idea of what / would have to go through and the hardships, dangers or what / would have when / got through to Oregon. What did / find and what did I have to endure? / found a country without roads, without bridges to cross the streams and without houses to live in. Now / want to give God all the praise sparing my life and the lives of those dear ones who helped bear the burden of those dangers and hardships. / think they must have been the best people God ever made. And now it is all over. I have lived to see from these small beginnings - homes, cities, schools, churches, and a great state." Signed: Jacob Henkle 1912.

5 OREGON /UL7 AG RICULTORALlo(Z

COLLEGE 0 c, by Margy Bare Remnants of a faded history are scattered the industrial classes." An appropriation of throughout the Oregon State University campus, $5,000 was made by the legislature, and Arnold in memory of many people who made it what it is organized two general departments, the literary today. and the scientific. The literary department was For those who know and understand, the divided into schools of ancient languages, William J. Kerr library brings memories of a modern languages, history and literature. The great president of 25 years. Snell Hall is no longer scientific department had mathematics, just a flashback to good ol' dorm days, but a engineering, practical mechanics and commemoration of a "lady doctor" who left her technology, physical science and moral science. mark on many. These are not mere names, these Impressive as it sounds on paper, it was a little and more are the pioneers: The people who more than Arnold and a faculty of three could fought for change, who saw the curriculum ex- manage. pand from their efforts, who made OSU an on- But he was not discouraged. With the help of going institute of higher learning. such board members as T.E. Cauthorn, J.T. Itall began in 1856 when a community Apperson, and J.K. Weatherford, names easily academy was established near the corner of recognized on campus today, Arnold worked to Fifth and Madison Streets. In 1858 it became Cor- strengthen the framework that hinted only slight- vallis College and later came under control of the ly at the justice of the name, State Agricultural Methodist Episcopal Church South in 1860. College. He went from three assistants to thir- The Morrill Act was signed by Abraham Lin- teen well-trained specialists in 1891. He con- coln in 1862. This piece of legislation brought ducted the first soil research which was the seed about the receipt of 30,000 acres of federally own- that some 14 years later grew into the ed land for each representative of each state in Agricultural Experiment Station. This along with the union. This was to provide funds for a the subsequent Federal Cooperative Extension designated college - hence the birth of the land- Service is the foundation for the tie between grant colleges. Oregon received 90,000 acres. OSU's research achievements and the communi- With the influence of a Corvallis College ty. teacher, W.W. Moreland, who was also a clerk at Arnold and his colleagues also saw the need the Oregon Legislature, and B.F. Burch, on the for a strengthening in directions other than board of trustees of the college and president of agricultural to make a well-rounded educational the Oregon Senate, Corvallis College was chosen opportunity. In 1884 came a recommendation for to be the official land-grant institution in 1868. a "mechanical department," which began with OSU has not forgotten Moreland, as his classes in engineering, mechanical drawing, sur- namesake on Jefferson Way now houses the veying, mechanics of engineering, and shop Departments of English and Psychology. work. In 1889, G.A. Covell arrived from Cornell Finley Hall has deep roots in the annals of University. On these fundamentals came the history. William J. Finley was the first president basis for the present School of Engineering. of Corvallis College in 1865. His term in office, Covell became the first dean of that school in lasting seven years, saw the college make the 1907, and his name is recalled on one of the change to a land-grant institution and become buildings now used by engineering. Oregon State Agricultural College(0 AC). About this time came another distinctive Suggested curriculum included mathematics, field for Oregon Agricultural College. With the English, natural science, languages, military ex- men preparing for work in farming and other ercises, agriculture and moral philosophy. But areas, administrators felt it was time to get due to debts and slow state support, the money women into the picture. On July 2,1888, the wasn't there to make these adjustments while Board of Regents established the chair of Finley was in office. He resigned in 1872. "Household Economy and Sanitation." Accor- His successor, B.L. Arnold, was more able to ding to President Arnold, in a report he made to "cut corners" as head administrator, perhaps the legislature on Dec. 28,1888, "Household the reason for a street to bear his name which Economy and Hygiene" are subjects of prime cuts across to Harrison from Monroe Street importance to the welfare of the family, and alongside campus today. Arnold had visions of in- through the family, to the community, and this corporating the ideals of the Morrill Act, "to department should be filled as soon as con- promote the liberal and practical education of venient." And so, in 1889, Dr. Margaret Snell was

6 Learning to prune at OAC at the turn of the century.

brought to Corvallis and filled the seat which time which has been described as ripe for rapid became the first course of its kind to be es- expansion. When he left the presidency 25 years tablished in a state institution west of the Rocky later, OAC had grown from 225 acres worth $229.- Mountains. 000 to 555 acres worth $7.5 million. Additions in- Her words reveal her belief in women's cluded much of what students see today: the education, words that today could receive both Men's Gymnasium, the Women's Building. Home criticism and applause: "A woman can have no Economics, Kidder Hall. Graf Engineering higher work than to help create a Garden of Eden Laboratory, Dryden Poultry-Veterinary Hall, . . Here, with a background of hill and sky, you Covell, the Armory, the Memorial Union, and can work out your destiny in clean air, uncon- others. fined by walls and ceilings. Here you may be free In his first year at OAC, Kerr established or a slave, according as you use your mental four major schools: Agriculture, Engineering, powers and spiritual force to ennoble yourself Home Economics, and Commerce. During his and those around you." term he organized the major schools now seen on With these ideas in mind Dr. Snell worked campus,exceptforLiberalArts:Forestry through 18 years and five presidents. Courses (1913), Mines (1913, incorporated with Engineer- which began in cooking and sewing later grew to ing in 1932), Pharmacy (1913), Education (1918), include hygiene, home furnishings, gardening Health and Physical Education(1931),and and even social etiquette. The emphasis for Science (1932). culture was never lacking. Other names dot the history pages as well as President Arnold's administration viewed the campus. A.B. Cordley was the first dean of the arrival of notable educators, like Dr. Snell, the School of Agriculture. Bexell Hall, which now and new and varied curricula. It also saw the houses the School of Business, takes its name small campus of one building on Fifth and from J.A. Bexell, first dean of the original School Madison settle on its present site, with halfa of Commerce. G.W. Peavy, first dean of dozen buildings erected on 'campus hill." One of Forestry in1913, and later president of the these, the first administration building, was give college, has a modern structure honoring his con- to the school by the residents of Benton County. tributions to a growing field. Benton Hall stands as a lasting memory to these Now, a maze of names becomes a total early years of OAC. history in itself. They tell of a pioneering people The William Jasper Kerr Library also honors and the making of Oregon State University.. one of the early leaders. Kerr arrived in 1907, a

7 curatorofamostprivate

by Judy Carison There's a museum in Corvallis of relics from a young Oregon. What's unique aboutthis museum is that it is all the work of one woman who wanted to preserve a little bit of history before it was lost. Many of the articles in Bessie Gragg Murphy's museum are reminders of her own past and her own family, who settled in the Willamette Valley in the 1870's. On the shelf a visitor can spy a Siletz Indian basket with a handle. Bessie will probably tell the visitor how her uncle traded a suit of clothes for that basket made of peeled roots. There are brass spectacles belonging to grandfather Gragg, grandfather Cree's bracket kerosene lamp and Aunt Lessie's cotton sun parasol. On display in the case is a sample from a 150 year- old coverlet; Bessie explains that the blue wool threads were dyed with indigo and the white threads were linen. Her mother's (Kate Crees) school books are in the bookcase, a reminder of her days as a teacher in one room schools at Airlie, Eola Hills and Clatsop County. There is Bessie's own school desk made by her father in 1902 ("You know in those days, you had to furnish your own desk"). Bessie, at 81, moves easily through her one- room museum (built specifically for this purpose when she bought her latest home) giving a run- ning commentary as she points from article to article. "It's plum pitiful that some folks don't have a sense of history," she concludes, shaking her head, "specially those who have something to offer." Born in 1894 in Elsie, Oregon, Bessie moved to Corvallis with her parents just before the turn ofthecentury.Corvallis was beginning to stabilize again then following a boom period and Bessie Murphy, 1975 then a depression.

8 In 1893, three major financial blows were Willamette, train trips to the coast and camping witnessed here: Oregon Pacific Railroad went weekends at Sulphur Springs. defunct, the State Legislature gave the western The Fourth of July was a "big red letter half of Benton County to Lincoln, and the day" for Bessie: "We always looked forward to Hamilton, Job and Company bank went going. As I remember, the main events were held bankrupt. on the courthouse lawn and there was always a Early settlers who had envisioned Corvallis patriotic speaker. All the little girls had to wear as the hub of the valley, connecting with major fancy white dresses with lace on them, and then cities north,south and west through her we had to be careful not to get them dirty. waterways and railway lines, now returned to Grandpa Crees took me to see my first movie on the more mundane tasks of platting city blocks one Fourth - I think it was in 1904," and writing needed ordinances. Recalls Bessie:"Grandpa Crees was a Bessie reminisces about downtown Corvallis wonderful man. I used to enjoy riding in his horse in the early 1900's: "Corvallis was a very small and buggy with him." William Crees arrived in town. Second Street was it. It was Main Street Corvallis in 1878, where he established a large then, and of course there was no paving - so in farm. The Victorian home that he built in the the summer, the dust was inches deep, and in the same year is still standing on Grant Street, but it winter, the mud was inches deep. There was a is no longer surrounded by acres of pasture. hardware store owned by the Smiths (whose When he retired from the farm he built another descendants are still here) and across the street home on 3rd Street which has been replaced by was a livery stable. Uncle John (Scaf ford) owned the Crees building.) Bessie remembers the home a marble shop on Second. I remember the Oc- on Grant after Aunt Lessie (and her second hus- cidental Hotel and the one saloon nearby. And if band Grover Headrick) moved in. "Oh it was an you saw a drunk man, folks thought that ruined elegant home." your day." Trips into town were not casual outings for "The old Opera House (SW Madison and 4th the Graggs. The Gragg family farm was located Streets) was quite a landmark. It was a large out on Highland Way (where Crescent Valley rectangular building where traveling troupes High School now stands) and the trip was usually performed. Popular offerings included 'Uncle made by horse and buggy. Bessie remembers a Tom's Cabin' and 'Ten Nights in a Barroom.' few outings on horseback where she would tie up Once I remember our high school (located in at one of the many hitching posts. what is now Central Park) staged a play there." Most vivid in Bessie's memories are the "In the summer, Chautauqua came. They set years she spent on the farm. (The family home up a big tent in the lower end of campus to per- which her father Henry Gragg built in 1905 also is form plays and present readings. Everybody standing, facing the high school.) Holding to the went; it was the thing to do." philosophy of "not having all your eggs in one Other forms of entertainment at the turn of basket," the Graggs had stock, produce, grains, the century were steamboat excursions on the and "quite a cherry orchard" as Bessie recalls.

9 "They were old-fashioned varieties like Gover- raising children, which she diduntil her nor Woods, Oxharts and Black Republicans. Dur- husband's death in 1941. ing the picking season, families wouldcome Bessie then pursued work in a field that from as far away as Summit and camp and pick would have been her natural inclination earlier, and can the cherries right there in the orchards. I "but women were expected to enroll in a field remember having a wonderful time playing with like home economics," she states. She worked as the kids." a seed analyst for the Botany Department for 18 Bands of Indians crossing the countryside in years. "There was a time I could have indulged late summer and early fall, are remembered by science. I was interested in bacteriology and Bessie: "The Indians were on the reservations botany, but at that time men monopolized the by then, but during hop picking season, I'd see sciences." lots of them; their dress was very colorful and Nothing appears to ruffle Bessie. Her sometimes they sold or traded their baskets. You answers are quick and usually short; her voice know, our family farm must have been the site of moderate. She regrets little and expects not an old Indian camp, because when Dad would much more out of life, Her goals are to keep busy plow for corn, he'd turn up broken stone Indian and look for new challenges as she moves tools and pottery." through the years. Arthritis and a bad back from There was dawn-to-dusk work involved in a horse fall 20 years ago put a stop to her operating a two-hundred acre farm and as Bessie horseback riding. "If I had the strength, I would grew, her duties grew. She and her brother, like to travel more and spend more time gar- George, were counted on to pitch in wherever dening," she says. needed. During cherry season, Bessie Hobbies are a way of life for Bessie now. remembers "picking cherries very early in the When she was 75, she decided to take a course in morning to deliver to the train for orders on the weaving, and as she progressed in skill, she add- coast. You must pick them with the stems on of ed spinning and dyeing to her repertoire. Last course, so they would keep better," she explains. year, she bought a camera and lenses to start her "I think the hardest work I ever did was to newest interest - photographing wildflowers. help my father mow (pronounced to rhyme with Bessie recently accompanied a friend in his jeep cow) away a load of straw," she continues. "It for a day, snapping flowers on the hillside. She was so dusty and hot. And later, I always drove followed that trip with a week's outing the horse to pull up the hay." photographing in the Wallowa Mountains. Horses were one of her earliest pleasures. Bessie's many interests have led her into She reminisces about her first pony that she rode local clubs such as the button club, the weaver's on the farm and into school when starting fourth guild and the county historical society. Her grade: "You know,Irode that pony clear reason in joining groups is dual: she shares a through high school. I figured it up once, it was common interest, and to meet new people. "I over 11,000 miles." need that contact to keep me on the map. As you Bessie's first school was a one-room get older," she reflects," and lose old friends, schoolhouse located on 9th Street, close to where you simply must make some new ones or you the B.P.O.E. building now stands. When she won't have any." began school in 1901, she made the trip on foot. "I Her even disposition and basic philosophy of had to walk two miles through pasture and woods life seem like those born of an earlier generation. to get down there." She speaks of her parents' strong influence and In1914, when she graduated from high wonders aloud if "parents of generations past school, her mother encouraged her to remain at didn't have more influence because life went home. Kate Crees Gragg felt that her years as a along with the same beliefs and ideas. It's so teacher had been "a struggle" and she preferred radically changed now." When asked if she to shelter her daughter from that type of work wouldn't like to return to simpler times, she for a while. Bessie laughingly remembers her readily admits:"I would personally like to mother's advice on discipline to another young return to simpler times, when automobiles were teacher: "Well, I would knock down and drag just beginning to come in." out!" "Now, you're not allowed to do that," Bessie Murphy preserves the past but lives Bessie commentes. Bessie stayed on the farm in the present. She is proud of her family "to fool around and help with the chores for four heritage and her own museum, but it's a quiet years until my brother was ready for college." proud. Her wants are few and rarely expressed, The two of them attended Oregon Agriculture but she did quietly express the desire to live a College where Bessie received a degree in Home full, active life and be spared nursing care in her Economics in 1922. Following her marriage to advanced years. She takes to heart Grandpa Philip Fleischman, she adopted her mother's Crees philosophy that "it's more honorable to philosophy that a woman's place was in the home wear out than rust out." A 'surfman' remembers

Men and boats at the Vaquina Bay Life Saving Station.

by Monica St. Romain Early every April a border of sunny daffodils Beach site and would go down once a month to march around a series of squares and rectangles clean them up and keep them in shape, although amid the beach grass and sand dunes near the they no longer launched them from the surf as south jetty of Yaquina Bay. they did in the early days of the station. Probably no one sees them, but it doesn't He joined the Life Saving Service in 1908, by matter. And fewer still know why they blossom lying about his age; telling them he was the re- out in such defiant splendor. But for nearly three quired 18. quarters of a century, they have been marking "I was a big kid,' he says. "About full the site of the first Yaquina Bay Life Saving Sta- grown, you might say. I worked on construction tion. on the Columbia River and as a boat puller when But there is a more popular reminder of the I was 14 and 15. In those days there were no Yaquina Bay Life Saving Station, a much livelier restrictions on hiring boys like that. If you were one, who walks the Newport bayfront almost big enough and able enough, you didn't have any every day. trouble getting a job. Richard Andor Christiansen of Newport is "To get into the service, you took your ex- one of the few remaining "surfmen' who recall amination," he explains. "If you had so many the days of the United States Life Saving Service, years at this kind of work, like surf fishing and afederal agency which predates the United such, you got your credits. I passed the physical States Coast Guard. test and experience test about 99 per cent.' Christiansen served with the Life Saving Ser- Christiansen's first station was at Coos Bay, vice after it moved from the South Beach Station where he spent two years. Just before he left, a to the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse. But he recalls four masted lumber schooner went to pieces near that the crew still stored boats at the South there.

11 "We took the crew off with what we called a "breeches buoy," he explains. "You shoot lines off to a vessel and make it fast. Then you've got a trolley that someone can get into, kind of like a pair of pants and you bring them in one at a time. "We used a brass cannon, weighing about 150 to 200 pounds to shoot the lines. But you were limited to distance, you know. Couldn't shoot it very far - maybe 200 feet." After Coos Bay, Christiansen decided to return to the Columbia River so he signed on at the Cape Disappointment Life Saving Station. "I stayed here until the Revenue Cutter Ser- "I didn't stay in one place too long," he ad- vice merged with the Life Saving Service and mits. "You know how curious a kid is? Well, I'd became the United States Coast Guard in 1915." sign up for just a year at a time." The merging of the two services brought an There were two stations at the mouth of the end to the Life Saving Service which had begun in Columbia: Point Adams on the Oregon side and New England in the late 1700's. Cape Disappointment sitting atop a rock cliff on Most of the stations were on the east coast or the Washington side, which gave the Life Saving Great Lakes, but there were seven along the Service a view of the hundreds of small gill nets Oregon coast: at Bandon, Coos Bay, Siuslaw, boats which fished in the surf. Yaquina Bay, Tillamook and the two at the "When the fleet was out, we'd go right out in mouth of the Columbia River. the fishing grounds with them," Christiansen ex- The first Yaquina Bay Station was establish- plains. Sometimes in a power boat and some- ed in 1898 and was patterned after the century-old times in a row boat. Power boats in those days life saving stations of New England. It was weren't very successful," he adds, "because they located south of the harbor on the beach, just didn't really have much power. above the high tide line and consisted of a barn, "But we'd stay right in there with the woodshed, bunk house, utility building and boat- fishermen, and we'd have a man on lookout up at house. the station. If anything happened, he'd wig-wag Christiansen feels that the move from the which way for us to go. South Beach site to the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse "One time at Cape Disappointment, we were was a good one. sitting by and watching two fishermen in a boat "They never should have been on the beach who were getting pretty close to the surf. You in the first place," he says. It was three miles know," he explains, "sometime the surf will from the entrance they were to watch and they build out and the fishermen don't notice it. Well, had to pull through the surf to work all the time. we were watching them, and pretty soon, bingo, When they moved the station to the mouth of the the boat went over, top side down. river, the men could pick their time to get out "We went in there and found one fella; he and maybe get some help from the bigger boats." was on top of the boat hangin' on. We took him The new station was smaller, however, and out, but we couldn't find his partner. the lighthouse was used only for drills and sleep- "But our skipper knew a lot more than we did ing quarters for unmarried men. The surfmen and he said, 'Pull in that net, boys.' And there he boarded at the nearby Ocean House Hotel and was. We gave him resuscitation using the bellows launched their boats from a small boathouse movement and by the time we were out of the located only a few yards away from the present breakers, he was talking, thanking us for saving Coast Guard boat house. ,his life." Christiansen and his wife lived in a little Christiansen says the men were popular with house near the lighthouse, close enough so he the fishermen for another reason, too. could hear the signal bell. "Lots of times they'd lose their nets in the It was while Christiansen was at the Yaquina surf and when we'd see them, we'd pick them up Bay Station that the crew got their first power and put them on the dock. The nets were boat, a 40 horsepower lifeboat. He marvels at the numbered according to law and we'd notify the equipment and horsepower the Coast Guard has owner who'd come get his net. That was a big at their disposal today. saving to the fishermen." "We did get a lot of help from the skippers of When Christiansen's tour of duty was up, he the tugboats that were working in the harbors," left the Lifesaving Service and returned to Ya- he admits. quina Bay where he married his childhood friend, "I remember one time when I was stationed Juliette Bradeson. on the Columbia, a lumber freighter, the

12 Washington was crossing the bar, when it came on rough, right quick, like it sometimes does. The ship got helpless in the surf and drifted about This magazine has been publish- three miles. ed by the Oregon State University "My skipper called up Captain Buck Bailey Department of Journalism and the of the tug Tatoosh from Astoria to come down OSU Summer Term office in order and help us. to share the experiences and "Well, the Tatoosh and a couple of other thoughts of local pioneers in this tugs, the Oneonta, Wallula, and the Goliah, came Bicentennial period. right down to the entrance of the river. Their stories, each covering a "But it looked pretty bad, and one of the different aspect of the area's tugboat captains said, 'Bailey, I don't think you history at various points in the ought to go in there.' period 1880 to 1920, were gathered "Well, Bailey wouldn't listen. He just pushed during the summer of 1975 by the throttle wide open. students in a special class (J-407A, "We watched it going across the bar. It Seminar: An Oral/Written History would be out of sight in the breakers, and then L of Oregon Pioneers). Tapes of pretty soon we'd see it coming up, just like a these interviews and others not in- whale. cluded in this magazine are "When the Tatoosh got to the Washington, available for use at the OSU Oral Bailey started backing in and trying to get lines. History Project in the OSU The first three got carried away by the wind, and Archives. The students located and the life saving crew was getting ready to go, interviewed the pioneers. Many of when a fourth line finally held. That Tatoosh them were kind enough to spend made history when it brought that freighter in long hours being interviewed, taped without any lossoflivesto her crew and and photographed. They were also passengers." generous in allowing the students to There are some other things, less dramatic, rummage through trunks for old about the service that Christiansen remembers, photos and other memorabilia. too. Special thanks must go to Robert Like the fact that the working uniforms were L.Phillips, director of Summer "whites" and the pay was $75 a month for a seven Term, who funded the project and day work week. encouraged its development from "If you wanted a vacation, you made applica- thestart,to Fred C. Zwahlen, tion and could get time off, but you didn't get paid chairman of the Department of for it," he says. "And since all the stations, ex- Journalism who had the original cept Cape Disappointment, had only eight idea, to Stephen Beckham, surfmen, when you wanted a vacation they would associate professor of history at have tohire a temporary surfman as Linfield College who was so helpful replacement." in finding sources and sharing his When Christiansen left the Life Saving Ser- experienceinconducting oral vice in 1915, he thought he would never return, history interviews, and to Dianne but fate played a strange turn of events. Sichel for her work as a teaching During World War II, at the age of 52, he assistant and editor. found himself in the United States Coast Guard, Finally, deepest thanks and ap- this time on beach patrol. And once again it was preCiation must go to the pioneers his destiny to save lives as he reported the fire portrayed in these pages. They which demolished the old Yaquina Bay Coast have lived interesting, unique and Guard Station in 1943. valuable lives which they have been Today, Christiansen still lives on Yaquina generous to share. Their ex- Bay, less than five miles, but more than 60years periences form a living history of away from the Yaquina Bay Life Saving Station. this part of Oregon, not soon to be And while the daffodils come out for a few equaled. brief days each year,shouting for some acknowledgement of their past, every day a little Ron Lovell, editor and designer bit of living history, walks along the Newport Assistant Professor, OSU bayfront, smiling and waving, and noticing the Department of Journalism changes. January, 1976 And he's seen quite a few.

13 Phulomath College By Linda Hart Philomath College, begun in 1865, survived un- to be made in five equal payments. The largest til 1929 as an institution of higher learning. subscription was for $300, the smallest for $3. In 1849, George W. Bethers, who lived on a There are 31 names on the original subscription. donation land claim one and one half miles The total amount raised or pledged was $12,000. southwest of Corvallis, wrote a letter to the Another $3,000 was pledged for the purpose of Religious Telescope, the official paper of the erecting a building. The total value offered to the United Bretheren Church published at Dayton, church was placed at $17,500. Ohio, asking for a preacher for the Mary's River The land was purchased and a board of trustees settlement in Benton County. The letter was organized. The board itself was composed of five published and the Indiana Conference meeting at committees: permanent organization, naming Elkhart, Indiana decided to send missionaries to the institution, locating the college site size and Oregon. The two men chosen for this were material for the college building and out-lots and Thomas Jefferson Connor and Jeremiah terms of sale. Kenoyer. Connor was made head of the mission The committee on building site selected the and was given $1,000 towards expenses. Kenoyer, place where the main building now stands. It was a physician, received $150 towards his expenses. determined to build of brick, but the size and A company of 96 persons in sixteen wagons plans were left to the executive committee. An started for Oregon in the spring of 1853 under the eight acre tract was reserved for the school, and leadership of Connor. Three other ministers, J. the remainder was divided into lots varying in B. Lichtenthaler, M. M. Crow and R. Price came size to be sold as a town site. Sales were to be as assistants. One member of the party, Brother made to actual settlers only to safeguard the David Mason, died and was buried near the moral surroundings of the school. A special Barlow Gate on the summit of the Cascades. The clause was placed in each deed forbidding grog rest of the party arrived safely at their destina- shops, gambling saloons or theaters ever to be tion after a journey of five months. located or allowed upon the premises covered by In 1849, when George Bethers wrote his letter, such sales. the district, known as the Mary's River It was decided at a meeting held in the court Settlements, was roughly that part of Benton house on November 22, 1865 to let a contract for County which is bounded on the east by the 200,000 bricks to the lowest responsible bidder, no Willamette River, on the north by the oak creek later than the first of the following February. On hills, on the south by Mary's River and extended February 1, 1866, a contract for 50,000 bricks was west into the foothills along the tributaries of this awarded to Lewis Wilson at a rate of $6.95 per stream. Practically all of the level lands had thousand. He was asked to put up a bond of $1,000 been taken and the better lands in the hills were to guarantee completion of the job. The board rapidly being claimed. The total white population had decided by this time to build only the center of the state was probably less than 10,000 people. portion of the planned building for the present No sooner were the log cabins made comfortable hence the small number of bricks contracted for. than plans were made for the erection of a school The board had already discovered the difficulty house. It was in one of those school houses that of turning its land and subscription resources into the plans for the building of Philomath College ready cash. were formulated. The school opened its doors in October, 1867. The minutes of that meeting read, "by mutual The enrollment the first day was about 100 agreement a number of citizens of Benton Coun- students. Because there were not many students ty, Oregon met at Maple Grove school house on ready to begin college-level studies, all grades the 14th day of February, 1865, to take into con- were taught in the school. The work offered the sideration the propriety of trying to build up a first few years was of a preparatory or secondary high school or an institution of learning of some school nature until such time as pupils had ad- kind in their midst." vanced in their courses until they were ready to A committee of three was appointed to draw up begin work of actual college standard. As rapidly a subscription for the purposes of purchasing as work was needed to meet the requirements of land and raising an endowment, all of which was advanced pupils, new courses were added to the to be offered to the Oregon Conference of the curriculum. United Bretheren Church. This subscription was In 1884 the pressures of the new moral school

14 movement could be felt. To meet this demand for classes were designed to prepare students for special training for teachers, a three year nor- theological seminary, since so many of them mal course was put in the curriculum. The aim of when on to become missionaries and ministers. this normal course was declared to be to meet The college was never fully accredited, so credits the demand for well-drilled teachers in the public were not transferable to state schools. schools, and to fit students for principaiships in Strict rules of decorum were enforced at high schools. An effort was made to cooperate Philomath College. Study hours were carefully with state and county superintendents in final ex- prescribed, leaves of absence were required, aminations. card playing, dancing, liquor and profanity were When state supported colleges were developed, strictly forbidden. Proper behavior at all times officials from the state came to Philomath to was demanded, and students were required to at- talk with the Philomath College administrators tend at least one religious service each Sabbath. about making the college, a state school. The This was all during the period of the late 1800's. college had been started as a Christian college, After the old college closed in 1929 the building and the people who were in control wanted to and the property around it was deeded to the keep it that way. They also wanted to keep con- localcongregationofthe United Bretheren trol of the school, so state officials could see that Church. In 1938, that became the Evangelical it just wouldn't work to make Philomath College United Bretheren through a merger. The land a state school. The close proximity of Oregon was actually deeded to the local members of the Agricultural College in Corvallis, combined with church, to get it out of the hands of those who thenon-accreditation and highertuitionof didn't live around Philomath and who didn't real- Philomath College helped to eventually kill the ly care about the old college building. Now that school. the church isofficially United Methodist,it On the college grounds were also a gym- naturally has become officially United Methodist nasium, built in 1902-1903, and a dorm, built in property. 1877. The gym was used by high school students Some of the people who were involved in get- when a separate high school was finally built. ting the new church building built were all set to The gym was built in two sections. The front half have the old church razed. But others had was built first, and was used for a library and different ideas. They felt the bu1lding should be social science classes. After basketball became preserved, if it was at all practical. That group so popular with both men and women, the back collected $2,500 and engaged a firm of architects portion was built to house a basketball court. from Portland who specialize in this kind of Very soon after the college closed down in 1929, work. They were outsiders, so they had no vested a Mr. Ervin of Philomath bought the old gym. He interest in the building, and it was felt they would tookit down very carefully, saving allthe give an honest opinion. material. He then built a two story house from Among other things, the architects said that if that material on the corner of 11th and Applegate the present United Methodist Church building Streets. The house is still standing. was deserted as the old building had been, and People named Stanton livedinthe dorm left uncared for with no heat or lights, the old building for quite a long time. Then the college building would still be standing when the new officials sold it to a family named Mallard. That building was gone. family carefully took down the dorm and built The church members then began their efforts three very tiny one and two room rentals on the to preserve the building. There are still those corner of 12th and Pioneer Streets. They were who feel the old college building should be torn right along the railroad tracks, and are complete- down, but they are outnumbered by those who ly gone now. are working to save it with funds from the State The selection of classes offered at the college Bicentennial Commission and the contributions was very diverse. Foreign languages, especially of local residents. German, were taught. This was because the United Bretheren Church had its origins in Ger- many. Greek and Latin, natural sciences, and botany were taught,as were special ladies classes in history and literature. Many of the

15 The Siletz Indians:

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P Indians at Siletz prepare for the 1916 "Hiawatha" celebration.

16 forgotten butnot gone By Janice Tiland The Indians of the Oregon coast have gone named Celesta. This name is eventually changed through many changes since the coming of the to Siletz by British explorers. white man several centuries ago. The biggest In another story, a young chief of a war-like adjustment came when the reservations, notably tribe decides he wants peace. God tells him of a the one at Siletz in the Coast Range between Cor- Celestial home, located where Siletz is today. He vallis and Newport, were established on their comes to the area and has a daughter, whom he former lands. names Celesta. This name is also eventually The Indian population was reduced from 30,000 changed to Siletz. (before the first Astoria settlement) to about 3,- "That's kind of fantasy, you know," says 000 when the Siletz reservation was opened in Rilatos of the legends. "That's what you read. I 1855. Their land holdings, instead of the entire don't buy that. I'm more apt to believe what my Northwest, eventually were reduced to an eleven grandfather told me." acre cemetery on a hill. (Virtually the only land According to his grandfather, the word Siletz the Confederated Tribe of Siletz Indians holds means crooked and winding. "And to me, that's today.) about as realistic as you can get because our Long ago, the entire coast area from California river is a very good explanation of that," Rilatos to British Columbia was roamed by large groups adds. From the headwaters to the mouth is only of Indian nomads. These groups were generally 18 miles by air. By land, however, it's 128 miles. known as the Fiathead tribe, according to Robert Rilatos feels that when it comes to describing a Rilatos, Indian Manpower Coordinator at Siletz. particular tribe, "Siletz is just a name." Even- Many experts feel that there were several dis- tually, most members of the tribes brought to the tinct tribes roaming the area. However, Rilatos Siletz Reservation acquired the name Siletz. believes these wandering Indians knew no real RESERVATION ESTABLiSHED boundaries. Intermingling between the tribes As white settlers moved into the Oregon can be proven easily by looking at some of the Territory, conflicts with the Indians increased. similarities in their cultures. Finally, on November 9, 1855, the Coast Range Rilatos also feels that many of the different IndianReservation was established by the tribe names could be referring to the same peo- Federal Government to reduce these encounters. ple. Early white explorers would "see a bunch of Including the natives of the region, close to 2,- savages running through the brush" and name 600 Indians were brought to the reservation them, when these Indians could have been from within a two year period. Rilatos heard that at the same tribe they had seen in another place. one time, 36 different tribes were represented at He feels the only people of that era with good the reservation. documentation on the tribes were the Hudson Among the many tribes brought in were the Bay trappers. They actually conducted Umpquas, Coos, Coquilles, Siuslaw, Tututnis, negotiations and tradings with established In- Alsea and the Rogue River. Several splinter dians of the area. bands of the tribes were also gathered up. In 1849, Lieutenant Theodore Talbot recorded According to a 1925 editorial in the Oregonian, in his journal his meeting with some Indians the reservation "gave asylum to the more camped out on Siietz Bay. They told him of a peaceful factions among the Southern Oregon terrible epidemic in 1831 that had wiped out most tribes." These tribes included the Ioshultz, Chet- of their tribe. Only two families, around 12 peo- cos. Shastas, Costas and Yukers. ple. had survived. Some tribes were also brought from the Mid- This tribe is often referred to as the only pure Willamette Valley. The same editorial mentions band of"Siietz"Indians. They were the the Calapooia tribe, which was brought to the southernmost tribe of the Coast Saiish band reservation in1855 after "relinquishing" the which included people in the areas of Nestucca, Willamette Valley for settlement. Netarts, Tillamook, Salmon River and Siletz. The capture and bringing in of the Rogue River This particular tribe, the "Siletz", inhabited the tribe was not as easy. The Rogues were a large area from near Yaquina Bay to Salmon River. war-like band in Southern Oregon. They were The origin of the name "Siletz" is the topic of called "the savages of the coastal area," accor- many legends. One involves a serpent jumping ding to Rilatos, who is descended from this tribe. out of Devils Lake and capturing an albino Indian In 1856, the government launched an intensive

17 campaign against the Rogue River Indians. They All of these posts were abandoned by 1866, planned to either capture them to send to the because there were not enough disturbances to reservation or to eliminate them entirely. justify them. Only the Siletz Blockhouse was The inland Rogues were sent north in January. witness to any real Indian brawl. Following months of conflict, exhausted rem- RESERVATION REDUCED nants of the coastal Rogue tribes surrendered The first cut in the size of the Coastal Indian after meeting at the Big Bend of the Rogue. Reservation was made on December 21, 1865. A On June 10, this band, plus other scattered 20 mile wide strip north of the Alsea River was tribes, were taken to Port Orford. Captain Ord, taken out and opened up to white settlement. the officer in charge, was very moved by the con- This divided the former reservation into two, dition of the Indians on this journey. He wrote, which thereafter became known as the Alsea and "it almost makes me shed tears to listen to them the Siletz Reservations. wailing as they totter along." By 1870, white settlers were anxious to have These Indians were put on the steamer Colum- more land thrown open to settlement. A petition bia, which left Port Orford on June 20. The ship was circulated in the county calling for the ended up at Yamhill on the Willamette River, removal of the Indians from the Siletz Reserva- after stops at Astoria and Fort Vancouver. A tion and a portion of the sub-agency at Alsea. barge then carried the Indians a short distance Senator J. H. Mitchell wrote to the Secretary further south. of the Interior in 1874, explaining the desires of From there the Indians were forced to walk to the settlers. He said that only 1,400 Indians were the reservation site. "They drove them like on the 1,400 square mile reservation. He felt this herds of cattle without proper provisions," says was "excluding settlers and preventing the Rilatos. The only possessions they had were the settlement ofthis country, so much to be clothes on their backs. Everything else had been desired." thrown overboard long before. The issue was pushed and finally on March 5, Many of the Indians never got to the reserva- 1875, the U.S. Senate passed a bill closing the tion. Rilatos believes that much of the food the Alsea agency. The Alsea Reservation was aban- Indians were given was poisoned in an attempt to doned September 16, 1876. eliminate much of the tribe. Other Indians es- This land was then thrown open to settlement. caped and attempted to settle elsewhere. Some of the more "civilized" Indians took up At the end of June, 1856, another Rogue River claims and remained on their land. The other In- band surrendered near Port Orford. This group dians were sent to Siletz. of over 200 people was led by John, the last Many efforts were made to civilize the Indians hostile Indian chief in Southern Oregon. They at the Siletz Reservation. They were encouraged were forced to walk the entire 125 miles north to to adopt European names, and to take on the the Coastal Indian Reservation. same life style and customs as the whites. Apparently, the varied coastal tribes were The public attitude toward the "taming of the separated from inland tribes. There is evidence savages" is subtly shown in early books and that officials tried to put only those used to a newspaper articles. coastal environment at the Coastal Indian Reser- An 1862 letter to the Oregonian editor told of vation. Others were put on the Grand Ronde the progress being made on the reservation. By Reservation to the north and east near the pre- then, the Indians lived in comfortable cabins, sent side of Dallas, Oregon. with fenced-in fields. All appeared content and However, in1856 over 1,000 Indians from happy. According to the letter, some tribes were Grande Ronde were moved to the coast reserva- nearly self-supporting already. tion for an unknown reason. Many of the inland In 1869, the Oregonian ran an article reporting Indians literally starved here as they were not that everything on the reservation was still in used to eating the seafood. flourishing condition. The Indians had acquired The Coastal Indian Reservation was very large the same mannerisms as whites. In fact, the arti- in the early years. It encompassed over 1,382,400 cle continued, "not a blanket or moccasin were acres of land extending from the crest of the seen." Coast Range to the Pacific Ocean. The Salmon Further, the Indians were crying for more River served as the northern boundary, while the wagons and plows, which the paper interpreted Umpqua River marked the southern edge, as another good sign. This progress, they con- In 1856, four army posts were established to cluded, proved that Indians could be taken and guard the reservation. Fort Hoskins (see box) "made men and women of fact." was on the eastern border, on the north side was David Fagan, in his 1885 history of Benton Fort Yamhill, with Fort Umpqua on the south County, felt the Indians were becoming as order- side. There was also a blockhouse at Siletz to lyintheir deportment and sincere in their protect the agency employees. professions as whites. He saw the people as being

18 decently dressed, although he believed many of tion. An additional 2,600 acres were under fence. the costumes were a bit extravagant. Some of the products that year included 22,130 The one spot that still showed the Indians' bar- bushels of corn grain and 500 tons of hay. barism was the burial ground, according to By the early 1900's, the principal occupation of Fagan. Although they put their dead in coffins by the Indians had changed. Over 90 per cent of the then, the personal belongings of the deceased Indians became involved in some phase of the were still strewn above the burial site. lumber business. When a brave died, he was buried with a knife Besides farming and logging, the Indians were in one hand and a gold piece in the other. This, also put to work constructing roads and even they believed, would help him get into the happy towns. The town of Depoe Bay was built by the hunting ground, one way or the other. Indians. While working on the town, they stayed The Indians had to give up many of their old at a nearby Catholic mission. customs once they were put on the reservation. Many missionaries had flocked to the Siletz In their natural state, there was practicallyno area. Besides the Catholics, the other major private property. Land and game, among other religions represented were the Methodists and things, were shared with all. White officials tried the Shakers. According to Rilatos, most Indians to change this because they feltit to be an went to the Catholic faith, although some never obstacle to the civilizing and general progress of left the old Indian faiths. the Indian. The missionaries played an important part in It was on the Siletz reservation that the Indians educating the Indians. Most of them taught in the were first persuaded to work, according to an reservation schools. early Oregonian editorial. They were told that One Indian school was located on Government "all white people had to work. Were they better Hill, the center of Siletz in early times. An than white men that they should live without average of 75 students attended. Some white working?" children also went to classes there. These were This pleading was followed by warning that if the children of agency employees or of early they tried to escape, they would be shot. "Then white settlers in the area. Another early school, the president's heart would be sad because he strictly for white children, was located in the could no longer protect them," the article con- Upper Farm area (now the town of Logsden). tinued. Some Indian children had to come great dis- Thus, most of the Indians settled down into far- tances to attend school. Free dinners were ming. In 1885, there were 973 acres under cultiva- provided for these students.

Before class at the Catholic Indian Day School. Upper Farm. Siletz Reservation. 1915. There was also a boarding house for Indian Named for Lieutenant Charles children. It was used as a manual labor school. Hoskinskilledin Mexico, Fort Girls were taught housekeeping techniques, Hoskins was located on a hill in the while the young boys learned trades and worked coast range overlooking Kings on the farm. Valley, about 22 miles from Cor- Fagan felt that the labor school served another vallis by now existing roads. purpose. He said it was designed to keep the Built in 1856 to skirt the western children from home and thus, "away from the in- edge of the newly created Coast fluences of their former Indian habits." Range Indian Reservation, it was EARLY HARDSHIPS forgotten by all except a few local If the situation on the reservation had im- area residents after its demise in proved from the white man's point of view, the 1866. John Homer of Oregon Indian perception of things was quite different. Agricultural College''re- They had been suffering since white explorers discovered" it in the early 1920's first landed on the coast. These explorers and the and raised a flagpole to the accom- settlers who followed brought many diseases panyment of a local band, watched with them that the Indians had no natural im- by a large crowd who had driven to munity to because they had never before been ex- Hoskins for the occasion. posed to them. The site again sank into oblivion Diptheria, whooping cough, smallpox, and par- C,) until early 1975, when the Benton ticularly tuberculosis killed countless Indians. County Parks Department found it These epidemics continued into the early years could get funds from the Federal on the reservation. Government to purchase the area Census rolls show the dramatic decrease in as a park, because of its historical population on the reservation. In 1867, there were significance. Pictures appeared in over 2,000 Indians there. By 1888, the census was the local paper of what no longer down to 607 people. The population kept decreas- existed at the fort site, enlivened ing progressively, In1908,only 444 Indians by a shot of a recently burned car. remained on the reservation. Although nothing was left of the Aside from disease, the population at Siletz fort, its existence from 1856 to 1866, decreased due to famine and also people just was at least brought to the public's moving away. At first, supplies were very slow attention. The Parks Department in arriving at the reservation and many people wanted to purchase the original went hungry or even starved. two-acre fort site with an ad- In1856, Lieutenant Phil Sheridan and his ditional 156 acres, but that request troops were sent to "quiet" the Indians at Siletz. was denied by the Board of Com- They arrived to find the Indians weak and star- missioners in late summer. ving, requiring only food to quiet them. There probably would have been "Those early years were pretty barbaric," ac- no Fort Hoskins and no Siletz cording to Rilatos. "The Indians were deliberate- Reservation except for the efforts ly starved in many cases." Rilatos also believes of Indian agent Joel Palmer, who in the meager supplies sent were often poisoned. the mid-1800's believeditim- For this reason, the Indians often wouldn't eat perative to provide a reservation the grain and meat delivered to them. Instead, for displaced Indians to protect they would travel to the Willamette Valley and them from the white man. camp on the outskirts until they had gathered all A temporary reservation set up the grain they needed from the plush farmlands in the Rogue River area to keep the there. Rogue River Indians didn't work Wagons brought in most of the supplies the out, and as trouble continued to government furnished.Ships unloadedtheir erupt and battles continued provisions at an army station on nearby Depoe between the Rogue's and white Slough. The wagons would carry the supplies in settlers and gold seekers, some from there to the reservation. solution had to be found. When the Althoughthe government provided ample military finally subdued the funds for supplies, many things were often lack- Rogue's, Palmer managed to ing by the time they reached the reservation. It secure the area to be known as the was rumored that Agent Simpson (in charge Siletz or Coast Reservation. Some from 1863 to 1871) held back some of these 1,382,400 acres would be used for supplies, then used them to stock his own store. the combined Grant Ronde, Siletz The supply situation improved with time, but and Alsea Reservations, to house continued on page 22)

20 anywhere from 800 to 3,000 Indians Augur won the first Fort Hoskins The fort was served by California from the Rogue and other areas. battle, and the fort was located out-Volunteers for the most part, who The reservation, which extended side the reservation,in Kingswere a bit upset at being sent to from the Grand Ronde/Valley Valley. such a dead place, having no doubt Junction area south to the Umpqua The government in the 1800's hadhoped for perhaps more active par- River, running in width from the a rather unique way of purchasingticipation in the Civil War. Pacific into the coast range, was to land from the Indians. It was - so Phil Sheridan, then a lieutenant, be ringed with forts, to keep In- much down, usually a small portionwas one of those helping establish dians in and whites out. of the purchase price, and so muchthe ring of forts around the coast In 1856, the Army set out to es- junk a year - cloth, clothes,reservation, and although he didn't tablish the forts. Fort Yamhill was useless implements, some food andbuild Fort Hoskins, he did work on built in the area of what is now occasionally a horse. Few clothesthe road to the Siletz area. Valley Junction on the highway got to the Indian, less food and the Probably the fort is remembered from Dallas to Lincoln City. Fort implements could be counted on tomore because Sheridan did serve Hoskins was on the eastern edge of be of poor quality. therethanforitsac- thereservationlocated above According to one soldier station-complishments. present-day Hoskins, approxi- ed at the fort,the government Critics have long thought Fort mately two miles west of what is didn't carry out its promise to theHoskins a waste, not only because now State Highway 223, running Indians on this reservation. Heof its location outside the reserva- between Wren and Dallas. The mentions lack of food, cheating bytion, requiring men and supplies to Siletz Blockhouse was finally the Indian agent, exorbitant pricesbe transported to the blockhouse, located in the area of what is now charged to the Indians, and no im-but because of its lack of real ac- the town of Siletz, north of Toledo. provements for their welfare. Fortivity or accomplishment. Fort Umpqua was located at the this,the Indian had given his However, about the time of the southern end of the reservation to valuable land. establishment of the coast reserva- keep the Indians from returning The government had built a grist tion, Indians in the Northwest were home and stop army deserters mill inside the agency and had then not totally peaceful. They could see heading south. let it rot. If the Indian wanted flour, the handwriting on the wall and had Life at Fort Hoskins was he tramped across the mountainsbeen cheated of lands by treaties anything but exciting - no Indian to Kings Valley to get it atwhich white men had failed to live attacks, no rebellions to put down. Chamber's mill, and more than one up to. They saw increasing In fact, Fort Hoskins' first battle squaw carried a hundred pounds ofnumbers of settlers and gold was between Captain C. C. Augur, flour back home over the hills. seekers moving into what was once who was to command the fort, and Personnel at the fort seem totheir land, and some of which still his commander, Brigadier General have had the opportunity for drill-was. The Indians decided that to John E. Wool, Commander of the ing,cutting firewood, wonderingsurvive at all, they had to fight. Department of the Pacific in how to get enough to eat, or drink- Fort Hoskins itself has passed Benecia, California. ing to forget it all. Some chose toout of existence and memory, its Augur was impressed with Kings spend a little time with the bottle. buildings long ago recycled back to

Valley and the proximity of both * the earth. A similar fate overtook grist and flour mill and wanted the Fort Yamhill,theSiletzblock- fort there to guard the settlers. house and Fort Umpqua. Only the Wool didn't agree. Judging from his blockhouse from Fort Yamhill has earlier attempts to keep the white been preserved and now passes its man out of Indian lands in days peacefully in the Dayton City Washington, no one should have Park. been surprised that he wanted the Hoskins as a town retains little of fortinsidethe reservation to its former self. The old store is protect the Indians. gone, school house empty, the mill Soon,J.Ross Brown, Special The barracks were built on ahas long since disappeared and Agent for the Department of the small bluff overlooking the valley.with it the streets paved with saw- Interior, got into the act. Brown Water was piped from a spring.dust that made it seem like a "real also wanted the fort inside the The buildings were arrangedtown" to one still surviving early reservation,butto protect the around the parade grounds,century resident of Kings Valley. agency personnel, not the Indians. barracks on the north,officers The area's main establishment He thought it would take too long to quarters on the south, quarter-now is a tavern appropriately nam- get the military to the agency, in- master and commissary, bakeryed "The Fort" to commemorate side the reservation, should the In- and laundries on the west andwhat once was, but perhaps needn't dians decide to eliminate agency guardhouse and hospital on thehave been. personnel. east. Marilyn Maurais

21 the government continued to treat the Indians The Indians were eventually organized in the poorly, according to Rilatos. 1870's, when the Confederation of Siletz Tribes He speaks of effortsofficials made to was formed. It was not very successful at first in segregate the more hostile Indians from the unifying the people, however. peaceful ones. They were moved to the Upper Further cuts in the boundaries of the reserva- Farm area in what Rilatos called a "set-up by tion as time went on added to the Indian feelings the Federal Government to make them war-like of instability. An additional section of the reser- among themselves, to annihilate them" by mak- vation was opened up to settlers in 1884. ing them turn against each other. The Indians had a glimmer of hope in 1887, The population reduction on the reservation when the Indian Allotment Act was passed. This was also due to many Indians escaping back to granted each Indian 80 acres. The tribe itself was their original land. However, conditions were also to receive additional land, to be held in trust. often much worse outside the reservation. Those However, "not everybody got an allotment," Indians remaining in the old Rogue River coun- Rilatos remarks. "They only had in the try were being hunted like animals and killed neighborhood of 300 allotments." The census rather than captured. rolls for 1887 show nearly 600 Indians that should Many of the Indians who left the reservation have been eligible for the 80 acre plots. would eventually come back where it was safer. In 1892, more land was taken from the Indians Most liked the reservation location, but not hav- and opened up to settlement. With this cut, only ing to live under force. Many also settled in the 47,000 acres remained.Many left the reserva- Willamette Valley. tion and were successful in establishing Despite some ofthese conditions and themselves independently. hardships, the Indians on the reservation staged It was the successes of these Indians, plus the very few rebellions. None of the uprisings reach- gradual disappearance ofthe tribes,that ed very far beyond reservation boundaries. resulted in the discontinuance of the agency. It However, rumors of supposed Indian uprisings was disbanded in 1925, although many services continued to occasionally alarm local settlers. A were still provided until much later. blockhouse was built near Toledo in 1870 for As the size of the reservation shrank, the pop- protection in case of attack. Another blockhouse ulation inside it also was reduced. was put up by Newport area settlers. TRIBAL ORGANIZATION Inside the reservation, there were several When the Siletz Agency was closed, the con- bloody frays. Bob Metcalf, the first agent at federated tribes continued to meet. In 1934 the Siletz, and his men were always heavily armed. Reorganization Act was passed. With this act, Fagan explained this was necessary because the the Federal Government officially recognized "wildtribes from Southern Oregon were the organized Siletz tribes. careless with their guns." By this time, the only remaining tribal land On September 11, 1868, news of a supposed was five sections of timberland and 40 additional "great Indian massacre" at the Siletz Reserva- acres, nine of which was their cemetery. tion was spread throughout area settlements. In 1956, all remaining tribal land and varied The white settlers prepared for trouble, with government services were done away with. The many of them fleeing the area. But nothing only land the individual Indians could keep was happened. the homesite they had built on their allotment. Indians played a part in enforcing peace on the Also, they had to begin paying taxes on the reservation. In the 1880's the reservation was property. divided into districts. Each district was assigned This legislative act not only terminated the to one Indian policeman, who was responsible for reservation, but also ended the status of the In- keeping order there. The only white on the force dians themselves. "They even took our identity was the Chief of Police. away from us as Indians," says Rilatos. The This system worked well in checking crime in- Siletz Indians then became classified on govern- side the reservation, and also in keeping trouble- ment rolls as "others." makers out. Whites would occasionally enter the A movement exists now to change all this. In reservation and bother the Indian women. One 1972 the Siletz Confederated Tribes reorganized purpose of the police was to protect the Indians and was responsible for the introduction of a bill, from such intrusions. the Siletz Restoration Act, into Congress. The Indians placed in Siletz didn't organizeas If this bill passes, the federal status of the a tribe for nearly 20 years. In fact, 18 to 20 Siletz Reservation would be restored. different languages were spoken on the reserva- Until a decision is reached on this bill, the tion, the Chinook jargon being the most common. Siletz will still be "others," forgotten as a peo- (In the schools, however, classes were taught ple. misused, and let down by a government that strictly in English.) rounded them up like animals over 100 years ago..

22 A windowonthe river by Lorraine Ruff The Willamette River has always been a major tative said there was no problem. No water influenceinCorvallis ever since 1853 when would ever get into his building. And if it did, he'd Marysville (later changed to Corvallis) was in- drink every drop. corporated. The next winter, the river rose and flowed in In the old days, pre-1880 to just before the turn over the window sills. The representative, the of the century, sternwheelers used to steam up railroad, and the building didn't stay around very and down the Willamette putting into three docks long. in Corvallis. The first landing was just south of William Payne of Corvallis took a ride on a the Van Buren Street bridge - which is a draw- sternwheeler. He says it cost $1 a day: "It only bridge - the second at the Fischer Flour Mill - took one day going towards Portland to get to located where Evans Products is today - and the Oregon City. That's as far as the steamboat went third at a warehouse north of the Fischer Mill. because of the (water) falls. But coming back up Corvallis was considered to be the head of the river it took three days, and, of course, that navigation although during the spring when the cost $3. Most people would ride the steamboat to river was high enough, sternwheelers did make it Oregon City and go into Portland for the day and to Harrisburg and Eugene. then take the train back. It was faster and Fred Fischer was a representative for the cheaper. But it was fun to ride the steamboat. Oregon Transportation Company and used to call They put into all kinds of landings." in the water level to Portland. There was a 24- And Ralph Schindler took a ride on a steam- foot marker in the river out in front of his feed boat, too. He says during salmon season, the and seed warehouse at First and Jackson along sternwheelers would pick up salmon along the the river bank. way: "It was a very pleasant experience. If you Sternwheelers used to carry away flour from weren't in any hurry, it could be very restful." the Fischer Flour Mill pre-World War I. Mrs. George Buxton can remember when his family Edward Cracraft, daughter of Fred Fischer used to take a ferry across the Willamette to go remembers her father telling her about the swimming in a Willamette River slough that was steamboats: located at the back of the Russell property where "Dad had given to him a bell - it's probably the Valley Round Barn Theatre is today. eight inches high - that came from one of the "That was the east river, back then," Buxton steamboats. For years, that bell was mounted on comments. the back porch of our home at Fifth and Jeffer- In later years the swimming parties moved out son. And when my brother and I were younger to Peoria. They built chicken houses at the old children we were summoned home from play by swimming hole according to Buxton so we didn't two taps on this bell. And there was no arguing go back there anymore. with the bell. When the sternwheeler bell sound- Ralph Schindler grew up in Salem and he can ed, you dropped your play and came home." remember two sternwheelers called the Pamona And when the sternwheeler bell sounded and and the Granoma - named for the Grant family the whistles were blown, Corvallis citizens knew who operated them between Portland and Salem. the sternwheeler would be rounding the bend and The Spalding Logging Company in Salem main- would soon put into one of the landings. tained two riverboats for their logging operation But in as much the sternwheelers were usually and one of them was named the City of Eugene on schedule, the river wasn't always so predic- according to Schindler. And there's a couple of table. sternwheelers being used in Portland as tow- "Before I was born," adds George Buxton. boats. They could get up a lot of power and were another early resident, "my folks told me about a efficient. flood that sent the water up as far as Third With the coming of the railroad and Street." automobiles, the sternwheelers were doomed. The Oregon Electric Railroad built a station They were phased out gradually, along with the across the river after the Van Buren Street ferries that criss-crossed the Willamette at ma- Bridge was built around 1912 or so. jor pockets of population. The oldtimers told the representative he was They are gone today, except in the memory of crazy to build the station over there. The town of those who remember them as a vital part of their Orleans had been washed away but the represen- lives. .

23 The little railroad that couldn't

by Marilyn Maurais In an era when railroads made or broke a By 1878, work was started. Eventually 10 town, depending on where the tracks went, Cor- miles of narrow road was put in going west, but vallis had no railroad. Portland had one as did then Hogg changed his mind about narrow gauge. Eugene City, and Ben Holladay's line reached His brother William, joining him and changing Albany. his name to Hoag to avoid confusion, brought in a Steamboats plied the Willamette with lan- locomotive. Named The Corvallis, it came by dings at such places as Peoria, Boons, Bonneville ship to Portland then upriver by steamboat to Slough, Stalbush, Fishers Mill at the mouth of the Corvallis. Marys River, Orleans across from Corvallis, By September 1880, Colonel Hogg organized Eckland, Half Moon Bend, Bowers Rock, the Oregon Pacific Railroad Company which was Calapooia River, Albany. Although the steam- to control the Willamette Valley and Coast along boat reached Corvallis, there was no railroad with franchises. The new company had the right with which to connect. to sell land, issue bonds, and most important of Corvallis was the heart of the valley. all to Hogg, build the line east through the Surrounded by good farmland, abundant wheat Cascades. for shipment, timber in the hills - shouldn't she Hogg busily tried to raise more money in the have a railroad? And then, there was Yaquina east for his venture, and in 1881 the Oregon Bay, as a possible port. Pacific actually called for bids on ties. Chinese T. Egenton Hogg, sometimes called Colonel, workers and others were hired and on September would help change the Corvallis picture. In Oc- 9, work finally started. tober, 1872, he incorporated the Corvallis & Ya- Although a lot of money and effort had gone quina Bay Railroad Company which was going to into the 10 miles of narrow gauge previously laid build a narrow gauge from Corvallis to Yaquina. west from Corvallis when the new line headed The object was to eliminate shipping wheat west, the old roadbed was completely ignored downriver to Portland for ocean shipment. The and a new cut was made. narrow gauge would carry it from Corvallis to Henry Villard, who controlled the Oregon Yaquina and it could then be shipped from there. Steam Navigation Company and who was also On July 2, 1874, Hogg incorporated the line building a railroad along the Columbia, didn't under the new name of Willamette Valley and like the possible competition he saw in Hogg's Coast Railroad Company. To encourage the com- enterprise. The new railroad had steamboats to pany, the state granted it all the tide and marsh compete with his on the Willamette, and if they lands in Benton County. What is now Lincoln could connect with a railroad over the coast County was still in Benton at that time. The com- range to a port.. .well, he couldn't tolerate pany was also freed from paying taxes for 20 that. Villard stopped all shipment of blasting years and some cash was thrown in. Additional powder toCorvallis . . . afterall,it WAS money was raised by subscriptions from local dangerous stuff to ship wasn't it? residents. The state asked in return for its Hogg overcame this obstacle by building east generosity only that the railroad carry troops from Yaquina and shipped his supplies in there. should the need ever arise. The battle was on. The railroads didn't like At this time, the Union Pacific and Central Hogg's competition and would continue through Pacific reached across the United States. The the years to fight him economically, eventually Northern Pacific was still heading west, and Ben raising rates on materials brought in on his ships Holladay was going south to California. Hogg's to Yaquina and sent over his railroad to Albany, great dream was to eventually take his railroad which would then have to be shipped by their from Yaquina through Corvallis and on over the lines to other places. Competition also came on Cascades to connect with a line going east across the steamboats with competitors dropping their the continent. rates.

24 Excursion train to Yaquina pauses near Summit, 1900.

Why use Yaquina instead of Newport as the grabbed your hat and ran." terminal for the new railroad? The grants from Mrs. Morgan recalls the convenience to the the state to the tide and marshlands gave the line teachers at Harris school who could catch a train a great deal of land in the area. .. why not build out Friday afternoon and get one back Sunday. In on land you own rather than on that you have to a day when the roads were poor and there were buy? no cars, the train was a much relied-on means of By 1884, three more locomotives were transportation. brought in. There was more to going to Newport in the The line was scheduled for completion in early days for some than just the fun of the trip December of 1884, and by then the track from over, crossing on the steam ferry and enjoying Yaquina and Corvallis had just about met at a sand and surf - for liquor, Newport was wide point near the Harris' mill, about 15 miles from open, Corvallis wasn't. Many empty passengers Corvallis on the Marys River. Then a storm hit. and suitcases were filled with the bottled spirits First snow, then rain and freezing weather. The for the trip home. crews were cut off from supplies, and work was The run to the coast made numerous stops at halted. small towns which like Harris station, have now Hogg broke a trail out along the line some 20 disappeared. Chester Chambers, now living in miles to town, and supplies were taken in to the Kings Valley remembers his days at Oregon crews along the track, from Philomath. The Agricultural College when he and his classmates weather changed, and the track was finished. took the train to the coast: "It would stop at The train actually ran over the entire line in several small stations on the way and the fellows March, 1885, pulled by the Corvallis. The line would get out and look for a garden where they wasn't in the best shape - but with a little fixing could pick up something to eat." here and there Steamship connections started on September Then money problems started. Crews hadn't 14, 1885 and the company owned the steamship been paid, timbers burned in a tunnel had to be Yaquina City which ran from Yaquina to San replaced. This was the beginning of the financial Francisco from 188587. Two other ships were problems that would continue to plague the added, the Willamette Valley and Eastern railroad, eventually causing Hogg to lose it. Oregon. On July 4, 1885, the first excursion train to Hogg's dream to corner the shipping market the coast was taken.Flat cars with plank for wheat, however, never materialized. The benches were used. Later these would give way wheat trade still went to Portland, with only a to coaches, but the idea of the excursion train, trickle falling his way. called up for any special occasion, would remain On January 6, 1887, with track finished to for a long time. Albany crossing the newly completed bridge Eventually the railroad was to run a daily across the Willamette, the first passenger train passenger train to the coast and on August 11, ran between Corvallis and Albany; the first 1885,thefirst carload of wheat went from regular freight started on the 13th. Philomath to Corvallis. In 1889, money troubles cropped up again as Ethel Morgan, born a stone's throw from the crews were not paid on time. Some complained Harris Mill and railroad in 1899, remembers well Hogg was pocketing the money. Bondholders the trains on the bay run. She, like others still liv- began to worry, and in the fall of 1890, the in- ing in the county, remembers taking the train to terest payment was late. Yaquina, it being the only convenient way to On January 20, 1892, the company was sold reach the coast. She was near the Harris station, for $200,000 at a receiver's sale to Zephlin Job, nd remembers that "you listened for the whistle acting for Hogg. The name was again changed on that told you the train was coming, then you July 30 to Oregon Pacific Railway.

25 Many employees still went unpaid for long periods. Maintenance on the line and equipment was poor. Trains didn't run on time, and afew wrecks marred the scene. In 1893, Hogg was removed from receivership and E.W. Hadley named in his place. Hadley tried to improve the operation, repairing track and servicing equipment. The road was now in debt $1.2 million and the court named Charles Clark receiver. With business picking up, the Oregon Pacific improved E ddyville'S a little. A.B. Hammond now appeared and decided to bid on the railroad. He had extensive timber holdings, and began buying timber lands on the Santiam. He bid $100,000 on the Oregon Pacific Eddy and got it on December 22, 1894. Reorganized under the name of Oregon Cen- tral and Eastern Railroad, Hammond used the line to haul logs and timber from his logging and By Janice Tiland mill operations on the Santiam. Timber was shipped by the railroad to Yaquina. Israel F. Eddy was ar enormous man. He In 1897, Hammond again reorganzied the line was 6 foot 7 inches and said to be extremely and called it the Corvallis and Eastern Railway. powerful. There are many legends Bea Wilcox He was content to keep the line as a cross valley remembers about her great-grandfather and his short line - a fact which pleased the competi- strength. One uncle used to tell her how Israel tion. would pitch hay with a "pitchfork in each hand Hogg's dream of a line across the continent and a whole haystack on each fork." had come to an end, and in 1896 he died in Once a loaded wagon was stuck in a mudhole Philadelphia. along the road, one wheel buried up to its axle. In December, 1907, the Corvallis and Eastern Israel backed up to the wheel, took hold and lifted was purchased by the Southern Pacific for $750,- the wagon, so the driver could make the horses 000. lunge and pull the wagon out. For a time in the early 1900's there were two Another, perhaps far-fetched, legend con- passenger trains to the coast, morning and noon cerns a heavy steel spike, similar to ones used in from Albany, taking about four and a half hours making bridges. Supposedly, he could put the to Yaquina, where a steamboat would ferry spike between his fingers, slam down on it, and passengers to Newport. One could also ride east instead of his fingers breaking, the spike would to the end of line at Idanha, some 57 miles. be bent to their shape. In 1915, Southern Pacific dropped the name But his fingers served another purpose as of Corvallis and Eastern, and took over Israel was reputed to be quite talented with a everything. grinder organ. During World War I, when a need for spruce He also kept law and order in the coastal arose, the Army built a mill at Toledo and mountain town of Eddyville. During a dance railroad traffic increased for a couple of years. once, a couple of "youngbloods" got into a fight. World War II caused another increase in traf- Mrs. Wilcox relates that Israel took each of them fic on the old C&E when it was used to bring out outside by the scruff of the neck and threw them lumber and prefabricated houses built at Toledo. into the horse trough for a cooling off. Although Corvallis never saw the realization People may not hear too much about the of Hogg's dream for a railroad running through town of Eddyville anymore. However, it has a with connections cross continent, it still retains very colorful background, which is especially the old line and there are freight connections in shown through the life of its founder, Israel F. all directions. Eddy. Mrs. Morgan can still watch the freights Eddy settled in what is now the town of from her front porch on Harris Road, although Eddyville in 1870. He was 46. At that time, the they carry mostly chips and sawdust now area was known as Little Elk. He had crossed the between Corvallis and the coast. But the only plains from his home in Minnesota, heartbroken passengers now are the crew and a few un- by the recent death of his third wife during child- authorized hitch-hikers perched atop the chip birth. With him was a son, Perry, and daughter loads. Eva Marie.

26 Israel bought land in Little Elk from a young Israel, a man very fond of trees, had a fine bride and groom. Legend has it that Israel and orchard in Eddyville. One man remembers com- his father rode to Corvallis and came back with a ing from North Lincoln County as a boy and mule or two loaded down with silver money to camping at Eddy's orchards while his family pay for the land. picked boxes of apples to store for winter. On this land Israel built a sawmill and a grist Israel also loved to travel. On one horseback mill. He has a small dam on the Yaquina to supp- triptoCalifornia, he brought back several ly the power. redwood trees. One redwood stands today on Stones used to grind the grain at the mill former Eddy land. It is located on the north edge were shipped from England, according to of Highway 20 on the straight stretch in the road Israel's great-granddaughter, Mrs. Wilcox, just west of Eddyville. The redwoods around retired curator at the Lincoln County Museum. Chitwood may also have been planted by him. She heard the heavy stones were then carried Besides his other enterprises, Israel owned a from Siletz Bay to Eddy's grist mill by one Indian grocery store. Above it was a large room. that woman. These stones are now on display at could be divided off by curtains into sleeping Homer Museum. rooms for people traveling through. Israel's reasoning for putting a grist mill in Mrs. Wilcox believes there "used to be more the middle of tall timber was the railroad coming going on in Eddyville, in my memory, than there through. In the 1870's, T. Egenton Hogg was is now." Occasionally, dances would be held in building a railroad to connect the coast to Central the large room above the store. People would Oregon, which they then believed would become come from miles around on horseback or in the grain capital of the world. wagons, bringing their children. The dances These plans never came through however, would last all night because, as Mrs. Wilcox puts and Israel ended up grinding flour for local use it, "they were kind of a rarity." instead of to ship around the world. Israel was a very religious man. Old papers The railroads could have been important in from an area Sunday school mention his name the naming of the town Eddyville. Israel owned a several times as the leader of prayer service. lot of land in the Little Elk area when Hogg was Mrs. Wilcox's mother (the late Mrs. Emma putting his railroad through. Mrs. Wilcox Edwards Eddy) remembered Israel coming to believes that when Eddy gave the railroad right- her wedding at Nortons, Oregon in November of of-way privileges through his land, it was under 1908, with a coonskin cap on his head. He had a the condition that they would name the area booming voice and carried an ear trumpet as he Eddyville. had become hard of hearing in his later years. Another version of the naming of Eddyville Israel had just recovered from a slight case revolves around the post office. of ague (similar to malaria, common in those The story goes that in about 1888, Israel Ed- days) before the wedding. However, he was mak- dy, who was then postmaster at Little Elk, mov- ing jokes about it, saying how he'd taken a big ed the office a mile west onto his property and swig out of a bottle of piano polish, mistaking it changed the post office name to Eddyville. This for his medicine. location was approximately where Eddy Creek Israel died in l9llat the age of 87, following a met the Yaquina River. bout with pneumonia. It is believed that this was This was but the first change of many. Four brought on when he walked from Eddyville to years later, for an unknown reason, the office Toledo to pay his taxes. was brought back to its original location. The Eddyville was quite a town during Eddy's name was once again Little Elk. lifetime. In fact, it almost became a big land Then, in 1893, the post office was again mov- development project before World War I. A man ed to Eddy's place. An 1895 map shows the town by the name of Leon Fish bought up a lot of land by Eddy Creek, a mile west of where the town is in the area around Eddyville and towards Nor- presently located. It remained there under the tons(a former town between Nashville and name Eddyville until 1900 when it was again mov- Eddyville). ed back to the mouth of the Little Elk Creek. This Fish was going to advertise in Germany and time, however, the name remained Eddyville. Austria for immigrants to come over to Eddy- Israel held many offices other than post- ville and settle, but World War I interrupted his master, according to Mrs. Wilcox. He even plans. operated the tollgate across the old military road Since Eddy's death, the town of Eddyville which connected Eddyville with Corvallis and the has hardly grown. Rather, it has, as Mrs. Wilcox coast. said, "quieted down." However, there is one This old road followed a similar route to the thing motorists passing through the town today present Highway 20. It was on the other side of can be grateful for: Israel Eddy's tollgate is no the river in some places. longer in operation. S

27 is coming

by Darrell Wolfe

What the Forum was to ancient Rome the This was the moment the culturally starved Chautauqua has become to the United States of peoples were awaiting. They flocked to acquire America, with this important difference: there was what they had missed by living in isolated areas but one Forum, while in America the Chautauqua connected only by a crude means of transporta- Assemblies are numerous and the number is fast tion. increasing as the years go by. In past years. people The Chautauqua was a popular collection of living in the smaller cities, villages, hamlets and the lectures, amusements and spiritual teachings countryside might read of great celebrities, which toured the United States in the late 1800's statesmen, orators,entertainers, musicians and and early 1900's. It originated in Chautauqua, preachers, but hardly ever could they hear or see New York and reached Portland, Oregon in 1905. them without taking long pilgrimages. Now, by By 1910 the circuit included the entire Willamette means of the Chautauqua, the best talent in the Valley. land, aye, in the world, comes to our doors. The Albany's Chautauqua originally occupied a Chautauqua today is one of the greatest moral and large tent erected for the crowds. Then, in 1914, a educational institutions ever originated in any hugh roof was constructed on posts as a perma- country. The inspiration received from it is a guide nent site for the crowds that attended. Among to the feet and a lamp to the path of thousands who them was Dale Propst who took in several of wish to spend their scanty and hard earned leisure the Chautauquas at Bryant's Park and in a brave little attempt to lead the life of the spirit. remembers the building quite clearly: "Albany Our aim is to furnish in the Chautauqua, physical had one of the most beautiful Chautauqua build- recreation, mental food, spiritual up-lift and hearty. ings that the country has ever seen. Two big logs whole-souled enjoyment to all such. were stood on end and across these was another Attendance at the Chautauqua will afford our giant beam. Then all the rafters radiated out people an opportunity to meet statesmen, gover- from that. It was a long rectangular building, nors and other persons, prominent in the public life rounded on the ends. If a person ever wanted to of the nation, and thus will help in no small degree build an unusual house and use that design, it to broaden the horizon of the entire community. would sure be a beauty." You cannot afford to miss the Chautauqua. Wilma Morrison remembers Albany's because a week spent there will increase your will- Chautauqua too: power, your capacity for friendship, your thinkery, "Albany moved into Bryant's Park for the bolster your ideals, and by adding to your health Chautauqua season every summer. The big will double for you the joys of life. pavilion with its sawdust floor wasn't 20 minutes early Chautauqua handbill from any part of town. Everyone got culture, all in one big yearly hunk. The magic of Chautauqua attracted people "There were streets laid out through the from near and far. It was a time of spiritual trees all around the pavilion. They were really revelation, a time to escape the baser life and ex- lanes but the names were the same as in town perience culture and educational enlightenment. and those who could afford a tent and the few Women spent long hours over a hot wood cook- dollars it cost to rent a 'lot' moved in for the stove preparing foods. The last of the dried fruits season. Merchants who gave one to three pounds were hauled up from basements. Yards were of 'Farmers' Mixed' candy every time you paid tended and minor house repairs made in your bill and opened their stores on Sundays for readiness forvisitors. The town became a you when company came unexpectedly, didn't beehive of activity - Chautauqua was coming. mind delivering to the park.

28 "It wasn't any farther acrossthe long Prior to the Chautauqua, there were some covered bridge or across the little one-man pon- touring attractions which appeared at local fairs toon bridge that connected First Street with the and picnics. Robert Flory notes that he saw 'Mr. park. And the families who lived in the tents Martin, the Wizard and Ventriloquist,' at the fair bought more because they had to feed their less in Albany. "The audience was awed by his fortunate neighbors who commuted to Chautau- science and talent," he says. But this is like com- qua. paring potato beer to a vintage champagne. "The tents in Bryant's park had house Orah Harkness was the champagne. She numbers and mail carriers delivered twice a day, graduated from something called the Columbia just like in town. All this and William Jennings University of Orators and joined the Ellison Bryan, too. And the Ladies Accordion Ensemble White Chautauqua Troupe to tour the United and the Mississippi Minstrels and at leastone States. They were renowned for recitals of plays real 'stage play.' Day after lazy summer day of and stories in prose and verse. Mrs. Floyd Mullen entertainment that came right down Chautau- of Albany remembers her as, "a very bright qua's sawdust trail to the very tent flies." woman, someone that could capture the heart Those attending Chautauqua were looked afteras and open the mind." Miss Harkness also per- though they were visiting royalty. The entire formed with a trio of ladies called "the Orioles." park was brilliantly lighted by electric lights. She gave readings while a second woman sang People could stroll and move about without fear and a third whistled. This group was considered of darkness or being molested. A special police "higher than vaudeville." force carefully guarded the grounds both day and night. Campers were as safe as at home. Many people set up tents for use during the day and Some Chautauqua Sayings returned home at night. These tents and other C haracter counts; the Chautauqua stands for valuables were tended by the police. character. A check room was provided at the Bureau of H ave no fear, you are safe, the grounds are Information where all small packages suchas patrolled day and night. valises, umbrellas, lunch baskets, etc., could be A soft cushion may come in handy. checked at 5 cents, and bicycles at 10 cents. U will save by buying your season ticket before Continued the handbill: "No amusement of the opening day. unlawful or objectionable character will be T he management requests the ladies to remove allowed upon the grounds, and those of approved their hats during all exercises in the character must be so conducted as to time and auditorium. place as not to interfer with the regular exercise A 11 questions will be cheerfully answered by the of the Assembly." bureau of information. Anyone marring the serenity of the U should register your name at headquarters so Chautauqua was dealt with very quickly. that you can be located in case of inquiry. Bells were rung to indicate the hours of exer- Q uiet rest for a few days during the Chautauqua cises on the grounds, and also at 11 p.m., after will do you a world of good. which all loud talking or any act which tended to U should make it a point to meet the talent; they disturb the people camping on grounds had to are human and enjoy companionship. cease until 6 a.m. A thought will remind you that silence in the Harry and Helen Eagles of Albany recall the auditorium is desirable and inspiring. Chautauqua as being the highlight of the year. S end us the name of such of your friends as you Their parents spent weeks preparing for it; think will enjoy the treat, and we shall be glad foods, homes, and clothes were put in order. to send them this booklet. Then everyone dressed in their finest and went to S ave this program booklet for reference and br- Chautauqua. ing it with you, as the number issued is Says Mrs. Eagles: "The morning sessions limited. were primarily for children and mothers. They E very morning at the opening hour the rounds were like Sunday School with ministers deliver- for tickets will be made. ing sermons and lectures. Also, home economics M ake it a point to be on time for the lectures classes were given for wives and young ladies. and entertainments. My mother had me all dressed to go, and I was B ring your note book and get something to keep. sitting in front of our house playing witha L ost articles should be reported to Chautauqua neighbor girl. The little girl took scissors and, headquarters, and those found should be left barberlike, cut a huge chunk out of my hair. My there. mother was so upset about my appearance for Y ou will find it convenient to have your own tent the Chautauqua she made me wear a bonnet the home on the grounds, even though you do not whole time." care to remain nights.

29 "The Angels of Buena Vista" won Orah a for the ladies in the afternoons or with their male special place in Albany society. Admirers came escorts in the evenings. The trips usually covered from miles around to hear her recite it. Her eight miles and took two hours; just the right reception was so warm that she married a Mr. amount of time before or after the last evening Buhl and settled in Albany. She remained active performance. incivic affairs when she retired from the A domestic science course, conducted by Chautauqua circuit and died as one of Albany's Minnie Price and Belle B. Edward, was the best finest citizens. such class Mrs. Carl Smith attended. "I learned Athletic and aquatic sports were a favorite over-eating is a universal sin," she says. "If you attraction of the Albany Chautauqua located on are hungry between meals, take a drink of water. the Willamette River. Over-eating is also responsible for divorces." Baseball games were played every day at And, "All starchy foods must be cooked. Also, 4:30 p.m. except Sundays. Teams were often coffee makes the blood acidic." made of local residents and sponsored by the These were some of the "nuggets" of knowl- town merchants. Or, teams from neighboring edge people could pick up at the Chautauquas. towns would form a league and have their Mrs. Smith was also informed that "anything playoffs during the Chautauqua. that will preserve a food will prevent it from Excellent tennis courts and croquet grounds digesting." were provided free for the use of campers and Women were taught the latest cooking in- visitors. novations and household economics. Children's Fred Blount, of the Launch Club, had an of- diseases and behaviors were explained using the fice located near the pontoon bridge for those most recent medical knowledge known to man. who desired to take a trip up and down the The housewives would practice these lessons on Willamette River. This was a special attraction their families in the weeks to come.

DR. SADLER'S COMPANY.

I)rSadlrr, Chautauqua Company uptimt,era (our peop, WtIlian S. Sadler, M. flL.ejie K, S4ler, M L Anna HKelloggregttcrednurse anti Sarsh Mildrcd Wilinter. reader.Thi. remarkable company h5vC proven theunaelvrs ciupalule of carry- ing on unstructuon of the highest orderwhtlit e saute ttne makingt highly entertaining and exceedingly popular.So much so that wherever hey ltavt appeared, the verdictIi. iulwau retirncd hat they areA whok Chatitauqux, except the

r* 1 rtgiul.ir pritcfiiing pfi ut hit t ir ei,-ctnit hhi hut, I, ,uiuf nui1uft ,ttft.i,tuf ft hr ujihl ill,,!,I,iiuf,eth1u, \SIt 11i'.

bruig fr fftuftfu I u tuft,,I, u. tutu IuI jut teucsf.hiti it]utittt.uI flu lu h ptluuu te ifu ututl 1 fuuI 1 III u i Singers and singing groups were very pop- An adult season ticket for the 1911 Chautau- ular at the Chautauquas. One such group was the qua cost $2.50. A one-day ticket was 50 cents and Williams' Jubilee Singers. They were billed as a child's ticket (8 to 12 years; children under 8 "possessing highly cultivated voices of great years were admitted free) was 10 cents. (These natural richness of tone, and they add to their don't appear to be exorbitant prices today but music the fascination of graceful motion and that was a considerable amount of money then.) changing facial expression. They do not sing like Says Winnie Propst: "My father would save 'wooden images' as is so often said of singers of for weeks to take us to the Chautauqua. We would other races, but are keenly alive to their finger dress in our Sunday clothes, hitch up the horse tips, the gesture, pose and pantomime being ex- and buggy, and ride over to Albany from Crab- ecuted with a harmony and decision which fur- tree for the day. Some years we didn't have the nishes a feast to the eye, while the music delights money to attend the performances so we would the ear." just go to see the people and what was taking This group and others offered several perfor- place. Most of the performers were Indians or mances at one town and then moved to the next gypsies or something. They wore very bright town on the circuit. This moving was especially costumes and tall headdresses. I think they wore good for localbusiness. The hotels thrived face powder, and they walked erect like they because the entertainers and the entertained were really somebody." mingled in the lobbies and filled the rooms. But come they did, from miles around. The Bellboys made bankers' wages and restaurants Chautauqua had a magnetism which hasn't been fed armies. The trains offered special rates, and equaled since. The audiences were educated. the few car garages worked around the clock. seduced, beguiled, entertained and enlightened Money exchanged hands - what little money all in one week, a week that had to last until next there was. year and the next Chautauqua.

ORCHISTRA This otretpaov itcvetpo.ral of arltttbfr.yaattvt Lttt! vs a fatlien'rtaartettr and a male tftaartrtce alp rchrvtta has made gao brie snags sary frets the opens to sIte Negro baa vitonattyci the bra America.Three are several reasons In and robin unaptThry potseaa bigisfy relttvote The personnel of the orchestra in ccc ft takes of great natural richness auflotte, andlet thu add to their otosir the facninatiort of gaaorhd ableto present programs that are (anklet a, whatever point of view they are vonnidered THE WORLD.FAMOUS regularly coachedatrehearsals by the bra nbc-Ira conductor fat this country,Whh or eocrtia r of the host tactical standards, thee LLIAMS is morn hobrinas novelty ittheir prvfraoda that LJBILEE

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,jhfs to present inallyother corohinatino rcttertetiteitthe toast extrudes teed b Apyctanjatty in lyceumor vhaaeaoqua engafrrtoottts oia Lu Pride Cawtftctn, time reader, proved her tell eorthy ta presrttt the principal feulitec vi ant 180 PENPOOMONCOO tO LOOttOet, CettaArtp frettenetoslltoe peogrothrteearreptlng her Ion aoliaeacitag faca.laj.otu I Jtterphlsr Grr'ring, the viothaist sod direetor, tour fog likr 'wooden ltaotgrv ed Etttapo at mite age of acorn ca a cidId tirtdtoac gg#a of cmihoe covetI,tt ta byrd0tI. and has appeared as soloIst wIlh the faotont No, at p ,ta'hda.,..00,ho,teac ha-sectianneher a Ii Monday, July 10 - Sadler Day Thursday, July 13 - The Ladies' Orchestra Day 9:00 A.M. - Chautauqua Summer School- 9:00 A.M. - Chautauqua Summer School- "Biology," by Prof. Peterson "Biology," Prof. Peterson 10:00 A.M.- Albany Summer Bible School - 9:00 A.M. - "Linn County Bible School - "The Epistle to the Romans," Rev. "The Epistle to the Romans," Rev. H.H. McQuilkin H.H. McQuilkin 11:00 A.M. - Forum Hour, conducted by Dr. 11:00 A.M. - Forum Hour. Address by Rev. Lena K. Sadler; subject, "The Cause H.H. McQuilkin, of San Jose, Califor- and Cure of Colds" (Demonstration nia by the nurse.) 2:00 P.M. - Music by Chicago Ladies' 2:00 P.M. - First appearance of Apollo Orchestra Concert Co. and Bell Ringers of 3:00 P.M. - First appearance of William Sterl- Chicago ing Battis, Interpreter of Dickens in 3:00 P.M. - "Accidents and Emergencies," or Lecture Recitals "What to Do Until the Doctor Comes" (Demonstrations by Sadler Friday, July 14 - Temperance Day Company.) 9:00 A.M. - Chautauqua Summer School "Biology," Prof. Peterson 8:00 P.M. - Music by the Apollo Concert Com- 9:00 A.M. - "The British Attitude Toward the pany of Chicago. Dramatic Reading, Oregon Question," by Prof. Joseph "The Sign of the Cross," Miss Sarah Shafer, of University of Oregon Mildred Willmer 10:00 A.M. - Albany Summer Bible School, Rev. H.H. McQuilkin 11:00 A.M. - Forum Hour Tuesday, July 11 - Patriotic Day 2:00 P.M. - Chicago Ladies' Orchestra 9:00 A.M. - Chautauqua Summer School 3:00 P.M. - Address,''Scientific "Biology," by Prof Peterson Temperance," by Mrs. Edith Davis, 10:00 A.M. - Albany Summer Bible School- National Superintendent of "The Epistle to the Romans, Rev. H. Educational Work;followed by H. McQuilkin reception, under auspices of the 3:00 P.M. - Address, "The Uses of Ugliness," W.C.T.U. by Sheppherd Saturday, July 15 - Homecomers' Day 4:00 P.M. - "Choosing Books for Children's 9:00 A.M. - Chautauqua Summer School - Reading." Miss Cornelia Marvin "Biology," Prof. Peterson 4:00 P.M. - Domestic Science, conducted by 9:00 A.M. - "The British Attitude Toward the Miss Minnie Price and Miss Belle B. Oregon Question," by Prof. Joseph Edwards, of O.A.C. Shafer, of University of Oregon 8:00 P.M. - Full Concert, by the Apollo 10:00 A.M. - Albany Summer School, by Rev. Concert Co. and Bell Ringers, in- H. H. McQuilkin cluding Trombone, Flute and Banjo 11:00 A.M. - Forum Hour. Address of Welcome Solos, Saxaphone Quartets, Vocal to Former Albanians - Response Solos and Readings 2:00 P.M. - First appearance of Williams' Jubilee Singers Wednesday, July 12 - Woman's Day 3:00 P.M. - Address, "With an Irishman 9:00 A.M. - Chautauqua Summer School - Through the Jungles of Africa," Dr. "Biology," by Prof. Peterson Gabriel R. Maguire 10:00 A.M. - Albany Summer Bible School - 4:00 P.M. - "Books Boys Like," Miss Cornelia "The Epistle to the Romans," Rev. Marvin H. H. McQuilkin 8:00 P.M. - Williams' Jubilee Singers in 11:00 A.M. - Forum Hour. "Arts and Crafts," Concert Hon. Allen Eaton, of Eugene Sunday, July 16 2:00 P.M. - First Appearance ofChicago No morning program. Visitors invited to attend Ladies' Orchestra,in musical divine services in the Albany churches. See numbers and readings daily papers for announcements. 2:45 P.M. - "Oregon From the European 2:00 P.M. - Sacred Concert by Williams' Viewpoint," Mrs. Clara Waldo, of Jubilee Singers Portland 3:00 P.M. - Address, "Six Years on the Dark 3:45 P.M. - "The Scholarship Loan Fund," Continent," by Dr. Gabriel R. Mrs. Frederick Eggert, of Portland. Maguire, the great Irish orator P1 OEERS!