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Paul Poiret Garment Photographs, 1925-1927

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Paul Poiret Garment Photographs, 1925-1927 Paul Poiret garment photographs, 1925-1927 Finding aid prepared by Celia Hartmann This finding aid was generated using Archivists' Toolkit on March 09, 2018 The Costume Institute's Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library The Metropolitan Museum of Art 1000 Fifth Avenue New York, NY, 10028 [email protected] Paul Poiret garment photographs, 1925-1927 Table of Contents Summary Information .......................................................................................................3 Historical note..................................................................................................................... 4 Scope and Contents note.....................................................................................................4 Arrangement note................................................................................................................ 5 Administrative Information .............................................................................................. 5 Related Materials .............................................................................................................. 5 Controlled Access Headings............................................................................................... 6 Collection Inventory............................................................................................................7 - Page 2 - Paul Poiret garment photographs, 1925-1927 Summary Information Repository The Costume Institute's Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library Title Paul Poiret garment photographs, 1925-1927 Dates 1925-1927 Extent 5.0 Item(s) Language English Abstract The collection consists of five wood-mounted black and white images of models wearing dresses by Paul Poiret in fabrics designed by Raoul Dufy, and most likely all taken by photographer Boris Lipnitski. Preferred Citation note [Title of item], [date of item], Box [number], Folder [number], Paul Poiret garment photographs, The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library at The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. - Page 3 - Paul Poiret garment photographs, 1925-1927 Historical note As well as presenting himself as an artist and patron of the arts, revolutionary fashion designer Paul Poiret (1879-1944) promoted his fashions as unique and original works of art in and of themselves. He did this by marshaling the visual and performing arts, and by working with artists associated with avant-garde modernism. Among Poiret's various collaborations, the most enduring was with Raoul Dufy, whose career as a textile designer he helped to launch. Dufy's flat, graphic patterns were ideally suited to Poiret's planar, abstract designs. Boris Lipnitski (1887-1971) was a fashionable portraitist from his arrival in Paris from Russia in 1921 until the 1950s. With Poiret’s assistance he established a studio where his clients included artists, writers, and members of the Parisian intelligentsia. The Hayward Gallery’s exhibition “Raoul Dufy: Paintings, Drawings, Illustrated Books, Mural Decorations, Aubusson Tapestries, Fabric Designs and Fabrics for Bianchini- Ferier, Paul Poiret Dresses, Ceramics, Posters, Theatre Designs” (November 9, 1983- February 5, 1984) was organized by the Arts Council of Great Britain, and sponsored by Cognac Courvoisier. Its catalogue lists three photographs included in the exhibition (nos. 422-424), of which the last two are described as " Chevaux marins et coquillages [sea horses and shells], 1925/Poiret dress, design by Dufy/ Photo: Roger Viollet, fonds Lipnitzki/ Collection Mme Perrine de Wilde-Poiret"; and "Poiret cape with Amphytrite design by Dufy, 1926/ Photo: Roger Viollet, fonds Lipnitzki/ Collection Mme Perrine de Wilde-Poiret". Perrine Poiret (b. 1912) was the second of Paul and Denise Poiret's five children, and with her younger brother Colin was photographed extensively by Boris Lipnitski. Scope and Contents note The collection consists of five wood-mounted black and white images of models wearing dresses by Paul Poiret in fabrics designed by Raoul Dufy. In some the models are positioned adjacent to art works by Dufy. The images are captioned on the back in English and/or French. One of the images can be identified as the work of photographer Boris Lipnitzki; the others share his characteristic style, composition, and lighting. On the back of two images, labels from Paris-based art moving company Andre Chenue et fils indicate that they were included in the Hayward Gallery’s 1983 exhibition of works in all media by Raoul Dufy. At least these two works originated from Paul Poiret’s daughter Mme Perrine de Wilde-Poiret and are credited to the Roger-Viollet (fonds - Page 4 - Paul Poiret garment photographs, 1925-1927 Lipnitzki) collection of photographic images that has been based in Paris since the mid-20th century and now includes images ranging from Second Empire studio portfolios to contemporary photojournalism. Arrangement note The collection is arranged chronologically by dates supplied for each image. Administrative Information Conditions Governing Access note The collection is open for research; materials are stored offsite and advance notice of 48 hours is required. Collection contains photographs that should be handled with gloves. Conditions Governing Use note Copyright restrictions apply. Consult Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library staff regarding permission to quote or reproduce. Provenance The images were purchased by the Costume Institute in 2006. Related Materials Related Materials in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Collections The Costume Institute collection includes more than 80 garments, shoes, hats, and textile samples by Poiret, many incorporating designs by Raoul Dufy. The Departments of Drawings and Prints, and of Modern and Contemporary Art hold various works by Raoul Dufy. - Page 5 - Paul Poiret garment photographs, 1925-1927 The Department of Photographs holds sixteen 1974 black and white photographs by Irving Penn of models wearing clothing designed by Poiret. Indexing Terms Subjects - Corporate Bodies • Roget-Viollet. Genres and Forms of Materials • Photographs Subjects - People • Poiret, Paul -- Pictorial works Subjects - Topics • Fashion -- France -- Paris -- History -- 20th century • Fashion -- History -- 20th century • Fashion design -- France -- Paris -- History -- 20th century • Fashion design -- History -- 20th century • Photography of women - Page 6 - Paul Poiret garment photographs, 1925-1927 Collection Inventory Box Folder 1 1 Dress with "chevaux marins" [sea horse] design. 1925 Note: Printed label on the reverse from Andre Chenue et Fils, Transports Internationaux, 5 Rue de la Terrasse, 75017 Paris identifies the item "Expo Raoul Dufy Hayward Gall: Robe ornee de pegases...Madame de Wilde #181". "A.C. Cat 423" identifies it in the Hayward Gallery's Raoul Dufy exhibition catalogue. 1 2 "Mannequin in Poiret dress c. 1925 reproduced in his 1925 tenture 'Les mannequins de Paul Poiret aux courses.' " 1925 Note: A card with the photograph reads: "Robe de Paul Poiret representee sur la toile de Raoul Dufy 'Les mannequins de Paul Poiret aux courses' 1925" [Paul Poiret dress represented on the Raoul Dufy fabric 'The models of Paul Poiret at the races' 1925"]. 1 3 [Model in skirt and top]. [1925-1927] Note: The painting in the backdrop appears to be by Dufy. 1 4 Cape with "amphytrite" design. 1926 Note: Printed label on the reverse from Andre Chenue et Fils, Transports Internationaux, 5 Rue de la Terrasse, 75017 Paris identifies the item "Expo Raoul Dufy Hayward Gall: Cape avec motifs amphytrite. Madame de Wilde #182". "A.C. Cat 424" identifies it in the Hayward Gallery's Raoul Dufy exhibition catalogue. 1 5 Mannequin portant une robe devant une acquarelle et un vase de Raoul Dufy [Mannequin wearing a dress in front of a watercolor and a vase by Raoul Dufy]. 1927 - Page 7 -.
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