Battlefi elds - Forts - Museums - Monuments - Memorials - Areas of interest.

PROVINCIA PROVINCIA DI VENEZIA DI VICENZA Battlefi elds - Forts - Museums - Monuments - Memorials - Areas of interest

This guide’s contents have been improved, and the guide itself has been reorganised. The idea is to provide visitors with the means to explore the area and uncover some of the signs of what was a major historic event worthy of study also by other means. The guide is an invitation to seek out the sites of the Great War in the Veneto region, and an invitation also to learn more about this period of transformation which so dramatically impacted the prospects of the area and of its peoples. Essential information is provided here of the main sites of interest, where testimony of the Great War in the Provinces of Belluno, Treviso, Venezia and Vicenza can be discovered, studied and preserved. The sites are grouped under three large Ecomuseums which are currently being started up so that the many local historic events which are a part of our shared national history can be narrated in a more satisfactory manner. The guide includes a general map and three section maps with the positions, indicated by various colours, of the sites dealt with in this publication. The sites of the Great War Remembrance − beyond frontiers Remembrance of the Great War, rather than a commemoration, should be This institutional guide dedicated to the main locations of the Great War in the seen as a time of refl ection. Veneto region − with its battlefi elds, fortresses, museums, monuments, cemeteries, We must remember and honour those whose life and youth came to an memorials and areas of historic interest − has been thoroughly revised. end during those tragic years in the lands of Venetia, along a boundary The aim shared by our four provinces of the Veneto Region, the Veneto Region itself, line which is hazy, nebulous and which appears to our eyes, nowadays, a and the Ministry of Culture has nothing to do with celebration of a tragic victory monstrosity generated by rationality: in today’s Europe in which differing which now belongs to our distant past (after millions of deaths, who was the true cultures and identities live and work together without divisions. victor?). The idea, rather, is to acknowledge the suffering of the soldiers of both At that time, more than today, certainly, the Europe of governments stood sides, not to mention the suffering of the civilian populations. Indeed, in this region, apart from the Europe of peoples. And, in the name of the interests and World War I was truly a total war. It struck rural villages and cities alike. It ripped ideals of others − often neither shared nor understood −, hundreds through once peaceful valleys. It ripped into the fl esh of the region’s people. And the of thousands of youngsters were shipped to the fronts to fi ght other wounds have never quite healed. youngsters. Their duty was to see in others the foe, and to hate the foe to While news of the events is transmitted among the people through the writings of the point of laying down their lives. authors such as Lussu, Hemingway, Comisso and so forth, here these memories Today, we remember the blood-soaked earth. We go back to, and (and an awareness of the dimensions of the tragedy acted out here) are handed conserve, the fi elds on which they fought, in a peaceful Venetia that looks down from one generation to the next. Like the carsic rivers of the area, these forward toward the development of its communities. We look forward, memories lead an underground existence, in the form of the stories of the people at while also respecting those events and such sacrifi ce. large, whose sincerity is that much more eloquent in that there is no space here for These markedly diverse, and frequently inaccessible, corners of our ideology. region deserve to be considered for what they are, in the name of a Visitors to the Veneto region cannot ignore this page of its history. It is a page taken beauty enhanced by the fact that, here, historical events took place from the shared history of Italy, since, here, amid suffering and doubt, a national which, if it is our desire that they should never repeat themselves, we consciousness was forged. It is a page taken also from the history of Europe, must not forget. because the troops of more than fi fteen nations fought here.

President of the Veneto Region Gianpaolo Bottacin Leonardo Muraro Luca Zaia President of the Province of Belluno President of the Province of Treviso

Francesca Zaccariotto Attilio Schneck President of the Province of Venice President of the Province of Vicenza Ecomuseum of the Vicentine Pre-Alps 8 9 1 MONTE PASUBIO (VI)(3 CIMA ALTA - VACCARESSE VI) respectively by the Provinces of Trento Extending from the Pasubio massif, and Vicenza is marked by the Pasubio Battlefi eld Monte Novegno forms the southern fl ank Battlefi eld massif. Until 1918, the very same frontier of the mid-portion of the Posina valley. was the political boundary between Italy 1915 - 1918 Viewed from all sides, the impression 1915 - 1917 and Austria-Hungary. This circumstance Free entry we have is of an imposing bulwark or Free entry explains the extraordinary strategic bastion overlooking the Vicentine plains. Municipalities: importance of the Pasubio massif And this, indeed, was its role during the Municipalities: Valli del Pasubio during the Great War. The area featured Strafexpedition of Spring 1916. When the Schio e Posina Posina an enormous network of mule tracks troops of Austria-Hungary withdrew, the Trambileno (TN) and other lines of communication, the Italian detachments began to fortify the Monte Novegno Vallarsa (TN) most remarkable of which, in terms of zone extensively, above all at the Priaforà Terragnolo (TN) imperviousness, was the “Strada delle strongpoint, the heights of Cima Alta and Gallerie” (the tunnels road), providing Vaccaresse, and Forte Rivon. Today’s border between the areas access to the peaks, in an area which is administered respectively by the Today’s so characteristic of the Dolomites region. border between the areas administered

RECOARO TERME VALLI DEL PASUBIO SCHIO

SCHIO VALLI DEL PASUBIO VICENZA

2 MONTE MAGGIO (VI)(4 MONTE CENGIO VI) This mighty buttress stretches southward The monumental area of the Monte Cengio and, as it stretches on, it decreases in Battlefi eld is one of the most strikingly evocative Battlefi eld size, starting out from Monte Maggio. We among the itineraries relating to mountain have, here, the summits of the Coston dei 1915 - 1918 warfare: “La Granatiera” (the grenadier) 1915 - 1918 Laghi, Monte Borcoletta, and Corno del Free entry road was carved out of the Cengio’s rocky Free entry Coston, as well as the dramatic ‘towers’ walls looking directly down on the Val of Monte Majo, forming a barrier for the Municipalities: d’Astico valley. The road was linked to a Municipality: upper Val Posina valley. Posina e Laghi system of tunnels, battle stations, cave Cogollo del Cengio This zone among the foothills of the Alps mouth batteries, and mule tracks (lines of is noteworthy not only in terms of its communication), all located in an area of history (notably, the fi rst year of the War extraordinary beauty. until the Strafexpedition, which started here), but also in terms of its features of environmental interest, not to mention the marvellous panoramas.

POSINA LAGHI COGOLLO DEL CENGIO TRESCHE’ CONCA

VALDASTICO VICENZA ASIAGO

10 11 5 VAL MAGNABOSCHI (VI)(7 MONTE FORNO VI) The Lemerle, Magnaboschi and Zovetto Given its specifi c position, Monte positions were bitterly contended during Forno was prepared for defence by Battlefi eld Battlefi eld the Strafexpedition, which ended when the detachments of the 27th Infrantry Italian detachments (the Forlì and Liguria 1918 Regiment from Styria. It became a major 1917 brigades) repelled the Imperial advance. Free entry strongpoint: in June 1917, it successfully Free entry From April 1918 on, the area was held out against the infantry assault of garrisoned by British units, which Municipality: the Arno brigade which attempted to Municipality: defeated the Austrian offensive of Roana reach Val Galmarara. The refuges and the Enego - Lusiana June 1918. These units were mainly works on the western slopes of Monte responsible for the complex system of Forno are well worth a visit, as is the trenches, the armoured emplacements complex system of tunnels linking the and the refuges which can still be seen zones immediately behind the lines to the here today. Opening and closing cave emplacements and the main line of times: resistance. Every day, 9:00-18:00 (July and August); Sundays, 9:00-18:00 CESUNA ASIAGO (April, May, June, GALLIO ENEGO September, October, VICENZA BASSANO November). ASIAGO VALSUGANA

6 MONTE ZEBIO (VI)(8 MONTE CHIESA VI) Given its central position, Monte Zebio location in June 1916 with units from was a key stronghold along the Austrian Bosnia and Herzegovina, and also from Battlefi eld Battlefi eld line of resistance stretching from Val Styria. The Ljubljana regiment organized d’Assa to the Ortigara ridge. It was 1917 the lines and areas behind the front. We 1916 - 1917 therefore prepared for defence, with a Free entry fi nd important remains here, such as the Free entry complex system of trenches, tunnels HQ hutments or the so-called “Dolina and cave emplacements still largely Municipality: degli Sloveni” (dolina, or depression of the Municipality: visible today. During the summer of Asiago ground surface, of the Slovenians), and Enego 1916 and, above all, during the Battle of the complex Thurmau Tunnel system of Ortigara (10-25 June 1917), the Italian tunnels and cave emplacements (named Monte Ortigara detachments repeatedly attacked the after the commander of the regiment, Austrian positions, to no avail whatsoever. Monte Chiesa became the ‘memorial’ Ventour von Thurmau). Since it was so ground of the 17th Slovenian regiment impervious, the peak was never directly from Ljubljana, which occupied this attacked by Italian troops.

ASIAGO GALLIO ORTIGARA ENEGO

VICENZA BASSANO ASIAGO VALSUGA

12 13 9 CIMA CALDIERA (VI)(11 MONTE LOZZE VI)

Occupied by the Alpine troops during A major stronghold along Italy’s line the counteroffensive launched by the Battlefi eld of maximum resistance, Monte Lozze Battlefi eld Italians, between summer 1916 and provided an excellent observation point autumn 1917, the entire area was strongly 1916 - 1917 for directing artillery fi re against the 1917 fortifi ed. The hutment complex of Pozzo Free entry Austrian positions on Monte Ortigara Free entry della Scala is well worth a visit, as are and the Campigoletti area. The main the complex array of communication and Municipality: communication trenches extended from Municipality: other trenches leading on from Pozzo Enego Monte Lozze, linking the forward lines Enego della Scala to Monte Campanaro (Mount of the vallone dell’Agnellizza (Agnellizza Campanaro), Cima Caldiera (Caldiera Monte Ortigara valley) − and, to the south, the Campiluzzi peak), above, and the vestiges of the line − with logistical supply lines behind observation post of Gen. Di Giorgio, the front. The entire zone presents clear commander of the 4th Alpine group testimony of the defensive construction (raggruppamento alpino) during the Battle works of the Italians, built between of Ortigara. summer 1916 and autumn 1917.

ORTIGARA ENEGO GALLIO ENEGO

ASIAGO VALSUGANA ASIAGO VALSUGANA

10 MONTE ORTIGARA (VI)(12 MELETTE DI FOZA VI) or uplands area. One of the bloodiest The complex natural amphitheatre battles of World War I took place here, Battlefi eld made up of the summits of the mounts Battlefi eld known as Action “K”, or, more widely, as Tondarecar, Castelgomberto, Fior, Spil the Battle of Ortigara (June 1917). We 1917 and Miela, surrounding the small stretch 1916 - 1917 are moved, even today, at the sight of Free entry of alpine grazing land (malga) known Free entry the remains of imposing defensive works as “malga Lora”, became (between constructed by both sides, not to mention Municipality: June1916 and November 1917) a theatre Municipality: the complex system of roads, mule Enego for some of the bloodiest battles of World Foza tracks and logistical centres. War I to be fought on the Altopiano di These structures are fairly well conserved Asiago (Asiago uplands). Testimony and can also be reached by the “Sentiero remains in the form of many memorial della Pace” (peace footpath) and paths stones and monuments, and the vestiges This is one of the most historically for tourists indicated by CAI (the Italian of the military cemetery of “malga Lora”. signifi cant zones of the entire Altopiano, Alpine Club).

ORTIGARA ENEGO GALLIO FOZA

ASIAGO VALSUGANA ASIAGO VALSUGANA

14 15 13 CAMPOLONGO FORT (VI)(15 CORBIN FORT VI)

twin of Forte Verena, is certainly the Although originally armed with six 149 best preserved of strongholds after the Fort mm guns placed in rotating steel dome Fort Punta Corbin stronghold. Near this fort, turrets, the cannons were transported we now fi nd the point of arrival of one 1915 - 1918 elsewhere and replaced with tree trunks. 1916 of the two “Sentiero della Pace” (peace Free entry The fortifi cation was bombarded in May Entrance fee path) itineraries. From the nearby Piana di 1916 at the start of the Strafexpedition, Municipality: Vezzena (the Vezzena plain, coming under occupied by the Austrian vanguards Municipality: Rotzo the administration of Trento) the peace from the Kliemann group (7:30 p.m., 29 Roana path itineraries cross the Altipiano upland May 1916), and abandoned during the in opposing directions. strategic retreat of 24 June 1916. The stronghold was built between 1912 Given its position, well back from the It remained a forward observation post and 1914. It housed four 149 S cannons front, Forte Corbin was more or less for the Italians. Opening and closing Forte Campolongo (Campolongo Fort) placed under rotating domes of a inactive during the fi rst half of the confl ict. overhanging the Val d’Astico valley, the thickness of 180 mm. times: Every day, 9:00-18:00 (July and August); Sundays, ROTZO ROANA TRESCHE’ CONCA ASIAGO 9:00-18:00 (April, May, June, September, VAL D’ASTICO ASIAGO VICENZA BASSANO October, November).

14 RATTI FORT (VI)(16 CAMPOMOLON FORT VI)

Dominating the Conca d’Arsiero valley, On the former boundary line between near the “case Ratti” (Ratti houses) Fort Italy and Austria, the (incomplete) Fort settlement, we fi nd the fortress of the Campomolon fortress was built on the 1915 - 1918 same name. Located downstream on the 1915 - 1918 heights separating the Fiorentini and torrente Astico (Astico torrent - to the right Free entry Tonezza uplands, at an altitude of 1,853 Free entry as one looks downstream), at an altitude metres. While not completed, it hosted a of approx. 350 m., the role of Forte Ratti Municipality: Municipality: Valdastico battery of 280-mm howitzers. We note Arsiero was to control movements from the upper the imposing rubblework walls providing Val d’Astico. cover, the enormous excavations required Built in the years, 1906-1908, there are to build the fortress (half under rock a number of clear conceptual differences cover, and half exposed), and, lastly, the in the manner in which it was designed, interesting (and, architecturally speaking, setting it apart from the Italian fortresses pleasingly rounded) form of the tunnel. constructed later.

PEDESCALA VALICO VALBONA TONEZZA

LASTEBASSE ARSIERO FOLGARIA ARSIERO

16 17 17 VERENA FORT (VI)(19 LISSER FORT VI) of this time. Armed with four 149 mm Forte Lisser, dominating the settlement of guns, during the fi rst days of the confl ict Enego, made up part of the defences of Fort it caused considerable damage to the the Canale del Brenta (Brenta canal). Fort Austrian strongpoints on Piana di Vezzena 1915 - 1918 Although featuring the most modern of 1915 - 1918 (the Vezzena plain). Nevertheless, on Free entry armoured structures and despite the fact Free entry 12 June 1915, it was incapacitated by a that it was hardly ever directly involved in bombshell that took the lives of as many Municipality: acts of war, this fortifi cation is clearly in a Municipality: as 44 gunners. The attack presumably Roana poor state of repair. Enego came from the Austrian positions at Well preserved, instead is the Costa Alta. This incident caused a great underground powder magazine − a stir in the national and international press structure which is both historically and at the time and led the Italian Supreme architecturally worthy of note. Forte Verena is surely one of the Command to order (2 July 1915) that fortresses of the Great War most Italian fortifi cations within the range of the frequently cited in the many memoirs Austrians be dismantled.

ROTZO ROANA ENEGO

ASIAGO VALSUGANA VICENZA ASIAGO

18 MONTE INTERROTTO (VI)(20 COLDARCO FORT VI) This former barracks defending Monte With its four 75 A mm guns, the building Interrotto (which is incorrectly referred to Fort of this redoubt began in 1910. It made up Fort as Forte Interrotto) dates back to before a part of the Brenta – Cismon defences. World War I. The structure nevertheless 1915 - 1918 It consisted in an approx. 300-metre 1915 - 1918 ‘saw action’ and was severely damaged. Free entry long tunnel entirely excavated in the Free entry An entirely stone-built structure dating rock, leading on to fi ve tunnels facing the back to the latter half of the nineteenth Municipality: Valsugana valley. The battery was linked Municipality: century, overlooking the settlement of Asiago to the HQ building by a covered trench. Enego Camporovere, this barracks structure is most decidedly a remarkable structure, and one of considerable interest.

CAMPOROVERE ASIAGO ENEGO

VICENZA BASSANO ASIAGO VALSUGANA

18 19 21 MUSEUM OF THE FIRST ARMY (VI)(23 MUSEUM REPRESENTATION CENTRE VI)

1,217 m), standing guard over the Sengio The main characteristic of the various signifi cance of the Val Posina valley, and Alto (Sengio heights) toward the plain, or Museum heritage items linked to the Great War, its landscape). Museum Pianura. The museum building stands next whether mobile or immobile, is their The aim is to ‘train’ visitors arriving at the 1915 - 1918 1915 - 1918 to a memorial. The documentary function presence throughout this area. theatres of the Great War and to provide of the museum is complementary to that Free entry The role of the “Centro di them with the means to learn more (also Free entry of the memorial itself. Rappresentazione Museale” (centre of by turning to the literature, familiarising Municipality: Municipality: The cabinets house material of historical museum representation) at Posina is themselves with the facts, and putting the Valli del Pasubio Posina interest (arms, military equipment, to provide visitors with the means to facts to the test). Location:Colle Location: Fusine photographs, memorabilia, maps, explore this tragic event through various The “Centro di Rappresentazione Bellavista uniforms, and a large model of the activities centred on didactic practices Museale” at Posina hosts the “Centro Pasubio massif). This material has been and communication, taking us beyond Visita dell’Ecomuseo della Grande Guerra gathered together thanks to the generosity the task of merely providing information. nelle Prealpi Vicentine” (visitors’ centre for The museum dedicated to the soldiers of the heirs, Pecori Giraldi and Papa, and Tel. 0445.593011 Various meanings attach to this historic the Ecomuseum of the Great War in the of the First Army is housed in a building the keen interest of dedicated scholars event (which deeply modifi ed the cultural Vicentine Pre-Alps). on the colle Bellavista (Bellavista hill, alt. and researchers.

POSINA FUSINE VALLI DEL PASUBIO SCHIO

ROVERETO VICENZA ARSIERO

22 THE LIFE OF A SOLDIER IN THE GREAT WAR (VI)(24 CIMONE VISITORS’ CENTRE VI)

The museum, “La vita del soldato nella The idea behind a visitors’ centre the Great War in the Vicentine Pre-Alps). focussing on the specifi c theme of Development of the museum’s overview Grande Guerra” (the life of soldiers during Museum Museum the Great War) was started up in 1999 at the Great War on Monte Cimone, with of the area is enhanced by inclusion Recoaro. We fi nd here an extraordinary 1915 - 1918 particular attention paid to mine warfare, of dynamic approaches such as we 1916 - 1917 collection of materials relating to the day- Free entry is that of providing a structure capable associate with the visitors’ centres of the Free entry to-day lives of soldiers and conditions on of gathering material and documentary great open-air museums. Municipality: Municipality: the Alpine front during World War I. These testimony of this time, while also Recoaro Terme Tonezza del Cimone objects were gathered from battlefi elds fostering dialogue and exchange. This (primarily, in the Adamello and Pasubio institution is one of the key components areas) by Antonio Storti, from Recoaro. of the Ecomuseo della Grande Guerra The exhibits, now open to the public, delle Prealpi Vicentine (Ecomuseum of document the lives of thousands at the front. Tel. 0445.793380 Fax 0445.793389

ARSIERO VALDAGNO RECOARO TERME SCHIO TONEZZA

VICENZA VICENZA VICENZA

20 21 25 ROVINI COLLECTION (VI)(27 THE BATTLE OF THE THREE MOUNTAINS VI) A fi ne collection of objects dating back “Per non dimenticare” (lest we forget). to World War I is hosted by former Museum These are the words we fi nd engraved Museum primary school premises in the district of on the truncated column erected at an Tresche Conca. The collection on display, 1915 - 1918 altitude of 2,105 m, on Monte Ortigara. 1915 - 1918 made available by the Rovini family, was Free entry Remembering the sacrifi ces, the suffering Free entry inaugurated in June 1998. It is the result and the lives destroyed by the war, and of painstaking research into the materials Municipality: the “battaglia dei tre monti” (battle of three Municipality: providing testimony of the Great War. In Roana mountains) serves as a warning to all, Asiago some of the rooms, visitors will fi nd more Location:Tresche Conca and as an exhortation to seek peace. This Location:Sasso than 700 items, such as bombs, rifl es, is the mission of the Museo della Guerra bayonets, helmets, uniforms, crampons di Sasso di Asiago (the Sasso di Asiago and pots and pans (discovered on the War Museum) − undertaken in the name battlefi eld of the Altipiano di Asiago Tel. 0424.692212 of all, from all nations, who suffered and Tel. 0424.690018 uplands, in the area of the Pasubio massif, www.collezionerovini.it www.sassodiasiago.it along the Brenta, Piave and Isonzo rivers, fell on our mountainsides. Opening and closing on the Carso heights, and in Comelico). times: from 15 June to 15 September, 10:00-12:00 TRESCHE’ CONCA CANOVE ASIAGO and 15:30-19:00 (booking ASIAGO required for the other VICENZA BASSANO months). VICENZA BASSANO

26 HISTORIC MUSEUM OF THE ’15 – ’18 WAR (VI)(28 MUSEUM OF THE RISORGIMENTO AND RESISTANCE VI) quantities of exhibits and documents The museum, dedicated to the struggle linked to World War I, is one of the for Italian unity and the resistance Museum Museum largest of its kind. As for all of the upland movement, commemorates various (Altipiano) and border settlements, 1915 - 1918 events, personages and protagonists of 1915 - 1918 Canove suffered the violence of that Entrance fee historical signifi cance to Italy and to the Entrance fee war. When the war ended, the healing city. Room 4 hosts a section dedicated to slowly started. These communities were Municipality: World War I, with a collection of writings, Municipality: gradually rebuilt, and it was during this Roana memorabilia, uniforms, decorations, Vicenza period of patient reconstruction that Location: Canove photographs and maps, as well as letters, so many of the instruments of the war anthems and patriotic songs refl ecting resurfaced (arms, ammunition and any sentiments widespread among the people number of the personal possessions of at that time. This Museum, with its enormous soldiers on both sides). Tel. 0424.692212 Opening and closing Opening and closing times: times: from 15 June from 02/10 to 14/05 to 15 September, 9:00-12:00 and 10:00-12:00 and 14:00-17:00 ASIAGO VICENZA CANOVE 15:30-19:00 (booking VERONA PADOVA from 15/05 to 01/10 required for the other 9:00-12:00 and VICENZA BASSANO months). 15:00-18:00.

22 23 29 THE SCRAPPERS’ MUSEUM (VI)(31 CIMONE MEMORIAL VI) totally destitute, the government issued Battalion of the 219th Foot of the Brigata a decree legally permitting recovery of Museum Sele who died on 23 September 1916 Memorial war materials. As a result, “recuperanti” following the explosion of an Austrian (scrap collectors) entered the picture, 1915 - 1918 mine on the summit of Monte Cimone di 1915 - 1918 who recovered large quantities of ‘noble’ Entrance fee Arsiero. The monument was designed by Free entry materials (e.g. lead, brass and copper). the architect, Thom Cevese. It consists These materials, the refuse of war, Municipality: in a tower on four arches surmounted Municipality: were stored in temporary deposits and San Nazario by an octagonal pyramid-like spire. The Arsiero then sold. This museum was set up to Location: monument is made up of three parts: an commemorate the ‘age’ of the scrapper. Carpanè ossuary, a small chapel, and the spire. An association of upland municipalities, This monument was built to duly The ossuary is housed in one space, In the 1920’s, in order to aid Italian “Comunità Montana del Brenta”, opened commemorate, and to provide a resting since the identities of the 1,210 corpses industry (whose stocks of raw materials the museum following the acquisition of Tel. 0424.692212 place for, the infantrymen of the First are all unknown. Access: were at an all-time low as a result of the a private collection to which other items Opening and closing road from Tonezza war effort), and also to meet the needs of were added in the form of donations times:from 15 June the many people who, following the war, from many associations and private to 15 September, found themselves jobless, homeless and individuals.. 10:00-12:00 and TONEZZA ARSIERO SAN NAZARIO 15:30:19:00 (booking required for the other VICENZA

CISMON DEL GRAPPA BASSANO months).

30 PASUBIO CHAPEL AND OSSUARY (VI)(32 LEITEN WAR MEMORIAL VI) tunnels. The crypt holds the remains of Constructed between 1932 and 1936, on the colle del Leiten (Leiten hill), the war 70 holders of decorations for military Memorial Memorial valour. memorial of the same name (designed by The crypt was also the site of 1915 - 1918 the architect, O. Rossato) was inaugurated 1915 - 1918 entombment, in 1952, of the Maresciallo Free entry in the presence of His Majesty, King Free entry d’Italia, Guglielmo Pecori Giraldi, who Vittorio Emanuele III on 17 July 1938. commanded the First Army from 9 May Municipality: The enormous crypt with its square base Municipality: 1916 until the victorious conclusion of Valli del Pasubio contains the remains of 19,999 Austro- Asiago the war in November 1918. Hungarians and 34,286 Italians killed in The memorial contains the remains Colle Bellavista battle (including 12 holders of gold medal Building work on this monument and of 5,017 Italian soldiers killed in battle decorations for military valour). ossuary began in 1920. The inauguration (3,400 of whom unknown) from the war took place on 29 August 1926. The cemeteries of the Pasubio area, and of 60 Tel. 0445.593011 Opening and closing ossuary is made up of two concentric unknown Austro-Hungarian soldiers. times: from 02/10 to 14/05 9:00-12:00 and ASIAGO 14:00-17:00; VALLI DEL PASUBIO SCHIO from 15/05 to 01/10 VICENZA BASSANO ROVERETO VICENZA 9:00-12:00 and 15:00-18:00.

24 25 33 MONTE CIVILLINA (VI)(35 PEACE FOOTPATH VI)

During the summer of 1916, on the of 350 km along the front of World War I, border of the Empire (a borderline now Area of interest taking in Monte Stelvio (Mount Stelvio), Area of interest separating the provinces of Vicenza and the Ortles and Adamello peaks, the and Trento), Engineer Corps units under 1916 - 1917 heights of the Pasubio massif and the 1915 - 1918 General Graziani, aided by many civilians Free entry uplands between Trento and Vicenza, Free entry (including women and children), built an where the decisive battles took place. imposing defence structure. To protect the Municipality: This footpath functions as an open-air Municipality: plain of Vicenza, the line stretched along Recoaro Terme museum, since it takes us to historical Asiago the Catena delle Tre Croci ridge, taking in locations restored and still visitable today. Campogrosso, to fi nally reach Pian delle The “Sentiero della Pace” covers about Fugazze (the Fugazze plain). 68 km circa from the basin altitude 1,000 m to 2,105 m (the altitude at the rocky The uplands “Sentiero della Pace” terrain of Monte Ortigara). footpath makes up a part of an itinerary

VALDAGNO ASIAGO

RECOARO TERME VICENZA THIENE BASSANO

34 CAMPO GALLINA (VI) upper Portule valley, the basin of Campo Gallina (Gallina fi eld) became, after the Area of interest Strafexpedition (June 1916), one of the main logistical centres of the Sixth 1915 - 1918 Austro-Hungarian Division. The location Free entry was organised along the lines of a citadel, with a hospital, shop, cinema, chapel, Municipality: hutments, refuges and storehouses. Asiago In the broad basin dominated by the imposing “monumento agli eroi” Monte Ortigara (monument for heroes) we see the remains of fi eld hospital no. 1303, the Located at the foot of the western military cemetery and the chapel’s Access from Larici slopes of Monte Colombarone in the podium. and from Val Galmarara CAI (the Italian Alpine Club) footpath no. 830

GHERTELE ASIAGO

VAL D’ASSA VICENZA

26 27 Ecomuseum of the Belluno Dolomites 30 31 1 GRUPPO DEL PADON (BL) 3 VONBANKSTELLUNG (BL)

the Cordevole valley and the mountain, la a fi ne opportunity to admire the very many Marmolada, was the theatre of tremendous Battlefi eld vestiges of the Austrian positions which – Battlefi eld battles. The Austro-Hungarians had gained a together with the Selletta Goiginger saddle, fi rm foothold on the line stretching from Pala 1915- 1917 opposite – functioned as a fi xed barrier 1915- 1917 Mariagn to Pizzac, Pescoi, and Sas de Mezdì, Free entry against a possible Italian advance toward Free entry Tyrol. This defensive system – named after down to the Bamberg refuge in Passo Fedaia Municipalities: Heinrich Vonbank, the commander of the Municipality: (now the Rifugio Castiglioni). The Italians during 2nd Kaiserjäger Regiment – was therefore their attack climbed from Crepe Rosse, Mesola Livinallongo del Col designed to withstand a frontal attack (and, Cortina d’Ampezzo and the Ornella mountain, and the front was di Lana indeed, it was more than adequate in this consolidated until the great defeat at Caporetto. Rocca Pietore sense). Access: easy, well signposted CAI (Italian There are many clear traces of trench warfare From Forte ‘n Tra i Sass below Passo The defensive works were reinforced by six Alpine Club) footpaths from Passo Pordoi, from (lasting until October 1917) along the ridge Falzarego, once the road has been crossed, lines of barbed wire fencing. A characteristic visitors may follow the footpath for more or of this structure was its fretted, or grecate, Passo Fedaia, and from Arabba and Ornella. (Ferrata delle trincee). The Ornella mountain less a quarter of an hour to reach the slopes layout, with cross-banks providing protection On the other hand, the trenches route called features masonry work, and many caves are of the Piccolo Lagazuoi to view the recently against shrapnel. via Ferrata delle Trincee is a much harder to be found at Ciampei and Col Toront. Visitors restored Austrian defence structures. This is The recent restoration work highlights www.lagazuoi5torri.dolomiti.org route, for fully equipped experts only. The may wish to walk along the deep trenches which an itinerary suitable for all visitors. A visit to the extraordinary importance, and unique [email protected] Gruppo del Padon (Padon group), between are still accessible between Pescoi and Pizzac. the Vonbank emplacement provides us with characteristics, of this system. ANDRAZ ROCCA PIETORE PASSO FEDAIA PIEVE DI LIVINALLONGO

ARABBA PASSO FALZAREGO ALLEGHE CANAZEI

2 COL DI LANA (BL)(4 PICCOLO LAGAZUOI BL) June-September. When war broke out, Col di may be dangerous due to the presence of water Lana was an Austrian bastion defending the or ice. The cableway generally operates from valleys, Val Badia and Val Pusteria. Its steep, Battlefi eld early June until the third week of October (every Battlefi eld bare slopes presented a great challenge to 1915 - 1917 15’). The Piccolo Lagazuoi was of strategic 1915 - 1917 the Italians: the hill fell to the Italians only importance to both armies during the Great after the explosion of a mine during the Free entry War (a fact the Austrians realised immediately). Free entry night (17-18 April 1916). It was then lost Thus, when the confl ict broke out, the Austrians Municipality: occupied observations posts there at altitudes Municipality: again after the great defeat at Caporetto. Livinallongo del Cortina D’Ampezzo Col di Lana and nearby Monte Sief (Mount “2668” and “2779”. Cengia Martini is a very Col di Lana fi ne location that illustrates the challenges of Sief) were burrowed and dug into by both Location: From Passo Falzarego, visitors can reach the mountain warfare. It can still be visited today sides for tunnels for mines and protection. Passo Falzarego summit of the Piccolo Lagazuoi by a convenient (after a visit to the tunnel started in early 1917). The trenches (including the communication cableway. The downhill route provides a Thanks to reconstructions, one leaves with a trenches) have now been partly restored and veritable open-air museum itinerary, including vivid impression of what life was like at the front. opened up to visitors who take the footpath tunnelled war structures. Please note that parts The tunnels are now open to the public thanks Tel. e fax 0436.867301 Start out from Pieve di Livinallongo or (fi tted out for safety) linking the two summits. of the route are safety equipped. These very to the restoration work undertaken by the joint www.lagazuoi5torri.dolomiti.org Passo Valparola. This is a medium-diffi culty In 1935, a chapel in memory the fallen was short stretches require care and also torches. efforts of the Italian ‘Alpini’, or Alpine troops, and [email protected] itinerary, and visitors should be adequately built on Col di Lana, as a place of pilgrimage The recommended season is mid- to late their Austrian and German counterparts, united equipped. The recommended season is and commemoration. summer. At other times of the year, the route by a desire not to let this era fall into oblivion.

POCOL LIVINALLONGO ANDRAZ

ARABBA CORTINA PASSO FALZAREGO CORTINA D’AMPEZZO 32 33 5 SASSO DI STRIA (Hexenfels) (BL) 7 CINQUE TORRI (BL) on reconnaissance missions above, the peak be rented (Italian, English and German) at the on the approach to the main peak (Selletta lower chair lift station. Below the rocky Torre Goiginger, or Goiginger saddle) and the saddle Battlefi eld Grande (2,361 m) forward outpost, we fi nd Battlefi eld below were occupied on an ongoing basis. The 1915 - 1917 the Rifugio Cinque Torri (fi ve towers refuge), 1915 - 1917 outcrop was pierced by caves and by a tunnel dating back to 1904, serving as base for at the mouth of which stood a small cannon. Free entry the “Reggio” brigade. A barracks settlement Free entry The Italian offensive against the “Stria” was one Municipality: was installed amid the large rocks, with Municipality: of the fi rst actions of the war in the Cadore area Cortina d’Ampezzo emplacements for Italian gunners. The area Cortina d’Ampezzo and Ampezzo basin. The reinforcement work also featured shelters, emplacements, caves conducted here is truly awe-inspiring. Visitors and communication and other trenches, set interested in these events will be sure to seek out Location: Passo up at the very start of the war. This was an Location: A partly restored military track leads from Passo information on the young nineteen year-old hero Falzarego (m 2105) The 5 Torri (fi ve towers) can also be reached extremely important position, from which it Val Costeana (m 2137) Falzarego to the peak. This climb includes of the “Stria”, second lieutenant Mario Fusetti, by chair lift between June and September was possible to observe the Austrian Col di exposed, fairly risky stretches (safety fi xtures whose body appears never to have been found. (also by skiers during the winter). The Lana/Sief/Settsass line. It was a second line, Tel. 0436.4610 have been fi tted) and must be considered an Fusetti rests amid the rocks of this contended museum visit commences after a short walk very well protected to prevent the Austrians Tel. 0436.2863 Alpine climb. Duration: approx. 1 hour. This was mountain. The Associazione Nazionale Alpini has from the upper chair lift station near the from re-occupying Cortina and ascending via www.lagazuoi5torri.dolomiti.org an Austrian stronghold right from the earliest now conducted restoration work on the Sasso di Tel. 0436.2863 refuge, Rifugio Scoiattoli. Audio guides can Val Costeana (the Costeana valley). [email protected] days of the war. While patrols were sent out Stria open-air museum. www.lagazuoi5torri.dolomiti.org [email protected] POCOL POCOL

PASSO FALZAREGO CORTINA D’AMPEZZO ANDRAZ PASSO FALZAREGO CORTINA D’AMPEZZO

6 CASTELLETTO DI TOFANA (BL)(8 MONTE PIANA (2.324 M) BL) to all but expert climbers (safety fi xtures have been been conducted (including safety measures) fi tted). Beyond the steps leading up to the tunnel, in order to provide visitors with a chance a very short level stretch takes us to the entrance Battlefi eld to examine the extraordinary defensive and Battlefi eld of the impressive Galleria dei Cannoni (cannons 1916 offensive works installed by both sides. These 1915 - 1917 tunnel). The Galleria del Cannone (cannon tunnel) efforts led, however, to a protracted stalemate Free entry which saw much bloodshed. The sheer scale Free entry is a broad horizontal window which was excavated of this battlefi eld (the length and width of the by the Italians after Castelletto was taken. Before Municipality: outcrop are 2.5 kilometers and 600 metres, Municipality: this tunnel, the site had hosted only a small cave Cortina d’Ampezzo respectively) eloquently provides testimony, Auronzo di Cadore which served as a shelter for the guard units to this day, of the endless suffering of those Access to this key site may be gained from the defending the Cappelli route. The hard work 29 tremendous months of war. The refuge is refuge, Rifugio Angelo Dibona (2,083 m), which put in by the Alpini (Alpine troops) turned this Location: Val Monte Piana (Mount Piana), placed against reached from Misurina (1,756 m) by means Location: Misurina can be reached by car. A footpath (trail mark 404) position into a huge, well-illuminated underground Costeana the stunning backdrop of the peaks of the of a convenient mule track or by a shuttle Dolomites, has rightly been considered the leads to the tunnel entrance (approx. 45 minutes). complex with large windows looking out over the service (1 June-30 October; 9:00-17:00, daily; epitome of the immense and appalling tragedy Please note that this is not the Galleria Elicoidale Val Costeana (Costeana valley), Monte Lagazuoi departures every approx. 20 minutes; meeting and suffering. The death toll came to 14,000. point: Pensione Genzianella). The Bosi refuge Rifugio Bosi (refuge) (helicoidal tunnel) (Galleria di Mina (mine tunnel), (Mount Lagazuoi) and the Alta Val Travenánzes This truly spectacular location still evokes is open daily during the summer season (1 Tel. 0435.39034 11 July 1916) rising within the Tofana, located (upper Travenánzes valley). A fi ne plaque bears the memory of the very many troops who June-10 October). It is then only open during 338.4328242 opposite, which is not dealt with in this guide, witness to this titanic effort. We see here the old died here. Vast, precise restoration work has the weekends (during the winter, only for [email protected] given its high altitude, exposure and inaccessibility hobnailed boot footprints left in the wet cement. limited periods from December to April). Shuttle service www.montepiana.com MISURINA [email protected] tel. 338.5282447 AURONZO FALZAREGO CORTINA CARBONIN 336.309730

34 35 9 FORCELLA DEI FORTINI – MONTE CHIADÉNIS (BL) 11 BATTERIA LISTOLADE (OR FORTE DI PEDEN) (BL)

short tunnel in which we still fi nd graffi ti movements from the direction of Val Corpassa Fort with the names of men and detachments. Battlefi eld (the Corpassa valley). A fi ne military road (with Together with the nearby Monte Avanza 1915 - 1917 enormous rubblework walls) leads to the location 1915 - 1917 (Mount Avanza) works, the site fully from Coi di Péden (680 m), also within the evokes the determination with which the Free entry territory administered by the Comune di Taibon Free entry Italian soldiers held on to these impervious Municipality: Agordino. Although the vegetation has not been Municipality: positions. Access is by car from the Cima cleared away, this emplacement, given its specifi c Sappada settlement (1,298 m) up to car Sappada Taibon Agordino Location: architectural and military signifi cance, is well worth park at 1,815 metres close to the Sorgenti a visit. On the approach to the battery, we fi nd a del Piave (springs of the River Piave). A Sorgenti del Piave Rifugio P.F.Calvi The Batteria Listolade (Listolade battery), in the road branching off to the left leading to the Costa short walk along a formerly military mule territory administered by the Comune di Taibon Bortolot emplacements (alt. 1,121 m) (landslides track (altitude difference, 350 m, covered Agordino (municipality of Taibon Agordino), are possible): a rise of 100 metres to the Forcella dei Fortini (the pass of fortresses) Rifugio Calvi (refuge) in 45 minutes) takes visitors to the refuge. more widely known as “Forte di Pèden”, was fortifi cation, 450 m to the upper emplacements; Comune di Taibon Agordino one of the best-fortifi ed locations on Tel. 0435.469232 A further ten minutes takes us to the constructed toward the close of the nineteenth duration of excursion: a 90-minute climb to visit Tel. 0437.660007 the Sappada heights. Apart from the ‘forcella’, or mountain pass, which was of century at the foot of Monte S. Lucano in order the remains of the stronghold; 3 hours for a visit to Fax: 0437.661002 surroundings, one sure attraction is the such key importance to the Italians. to control the Listolade pass, or narrows, and Costa Bortolot, on level ground. Comunità Montana Agordina

FORCELLA DEI FORTINI Tel. 0437.62390 0437.62034 0437.63617 SORGENTI DEL PIAVE CIMA SAPPADA CENCENIGHE AGORDO Fax 0437.62043

10 TAGLIATA DI S. MARTINO (BL)(12 GALLERIA GOIGINGER AT SASSO DI STRIA BL)

At the close of the nineteenth century, the site was Passo Falzarego toward Valparola the vestiges of warfare lead us on to the slopes systematically laid out with fortifi cations, based on Fort of Sasso di Stria and, just beyond, to the Fort inclusion of a “tagliata” (fortifi cation) at road level, a 1915 - 1917 Selletta Goiginger (Goiginger saddle), where 1915 - 1917 blockhaus above and a post with hidden casamattas, we fi nd fi xed defensive works erected by the or enclosures for artillery, on the summit. Leave Free entry Austrians (note the fi ne caves, storerooms, Free entry your car at Case Giovannelli, close to the northern Municipality: kitchens, and remaining insignia and Municipality: entrance to the Galleria dei Castei tunnel on the Rivamonte Agordino graffi ti). The tunnel (about 500 metres long) Cortina d’Ampezzo State road between Belluno and Agordo. On foot, should be visited during the summer months proceed along the old road toward the former Casa since water accumulates here at other times Location: Location: Cantoniera (roadman’s house) at the site of the of the year. Bring a torch. Castèi Passo Falzarego “tagliata”. A winding military cartroad (C.A.I., Italian The galleria Goiginer (Goiginer tunnel) is Of considerable interest are the site’s armoured emplacements and the traces of Already during the Middle Ages, this rocky, isolated Alpine Club, and trail mark no. 874) leads us to a located within the area of the Sasso di Stria open-air museum (Museo all’aperto del life as it was once lived here (an old stove, a stronghold − located toward the foot of Sasso di guard emplacement and then three tunnels, followed Tel. 0437/69128 Tel. 0436.2863 Fax: 0437/69143 Sasso di Stria). It was named after Field washing line, the electric wire, the cave for www.lagazuoi5torri.dolomiti.org S. Martino, on the right bank of the Cordevole, and by the Pianaz emplacements (1,050 m). This the generator, and so forth). Comunità Montana Marshal Ludwig von Goiginger, commander [email protected] between the Ponte del Cristo and Ponte della Muda excursion (3 h 30 m) is not diffi cult (mainly by mule of the Pustertal Division. Just beyond Itinerary suitable for all visitors. bridges − was a very important strategic asset for track with some diversions, occasionally on steep Agordina control over the road between Belluno and Agordo. slopes covered with damp grass). Tel.0437.62390 0437.62034 0437.63617 -

AGORDO BELLUNO Fax 0437/62043 FALZAREGO CORTINA

36 37 13 MONTE RITE FORT (BL) 15 M. RICCO AND BATTERIA CASTELLO FORTS (BL)

is located on the summit of Monte Rite, including partially disabled persons. BATTERIA in Cadore, at an altitude of more than Fort CASTELLO (953 m) (Castello battery): Fort 2,100 metres. With its stunning 360° visitors may take the same route as that for 1915 - 1918 panoramic views of the Dolomites, this 1915 - 1917 Forte Monte Ricco. However, they must turn location was found to be of extraordinary Entrance fee left at the fork in the woods just below the Free entry strategic signifi cance during the Great defensive works (about 30 minutes from Municipality: Municipality: War. Hence its complex structure of the centre of Pieve). The battery can also be Cibiana di Cadore military fortifi cations (battery, barracks, reached from the northwest along an uphill Pieve di cadore powder magazine, observation post). The woodland footpath from Roccolo di S. Alipio Location: structures, which had fallen into a state (about 20-30 minutes). Wooden bridges have Cima monte Rite of disrepair, have now been fully restored; been installed around the fortifi cations, also the project was drawn up by Venice’s Forte Monte Ricco (953) m. This fortress may facilitating the descent to Roccolo. However, This fort serves as the seat of the architectural university − Università di Tel. 0435.890996 be reached after a pleasant walk in the woods care should be taken at this point, and the Comune di Fax. 0435.890997 Pieve di Cadore Messner Mountain Museum Dolomites. It Architettura di Venezia (Iuav). and along a route practically entirely closed route is not suitable for all visitors. Restoration www.monterite.it Tel. 0435-789177 Open: June- off from road traffi c. The walk is suitable for work at Forte di M. Ricco is currently in Fax 0437-789101 October; all-day all (until the entrance of the fortifi cation), progress. MONTE RITE opening. Access: shuttle services or footpaths from Passo Cibiana FORNO DI ZOLDO CIBIANA (the Cibiana pass) TAI DI CADORE PIEVE DI CADORE CALALZO

14 PIAN DELL’ANTRO FORT (BL)(16 COL VIDAL FORT AND ANELLO DEI COLLI BL)

m on a splendid balcony looking over specifi c times for the uphill and downhill journeys. the Pelmo and Antelao mountains. It was Fort This itinerary takes visitors to the Col Vidal Fort constructed by the Italian Military Engineer armoured fortress and to an interesting group of Corps between 1911 and 1914 to prevent 1915- 1918 complementary military bases known as the “Linea 1915 - 1918 movements of enemy forces from the valle Free entry Gialla” (yellow line) above Lozzo di Cadore, at an Free entry del Boite (Boite valley) and the Forcella altitude of 1800 m, bordering the splendid upland Cibiana (Cibiana pass). The fortress is made Municipality: plain of Pian dei Buoi and lying at the foot of Monte Municipality: up of the “opera bassa” (lower works), Valle di cadore Ciarido. The installation was built between 1908 Lozzo di cadore functioning in tandem with the “opera This fort is located on the Pian dei Buoi plain, on and 1915 in order to block Austrian penetration alta” (upper works) on Monte Rite (Mount the itinerary known as “L’anello dei colli” (ring of from the Val Ansiei and Val Comelico valleys. This Rite) and with the “tagliata” (fortifi cation) hills) (trail mark no. 33, colours white-green). The upland area, with its centuries of shepherding The Pian dell’Antro (Antro plain) fortress at the ‘chiusa di Venas’ structure, built on site can be reached from Lozzo along the uphill traditions, features subsidiary works, and forms a Comune di Lozzo di Cadore can be easily reached on foot from Venas di the carriage road below. This (adequately Tel. 0435.505420 military road. Parking at Ciareido (250 parking part of the historic “Anello dei Colli” itinerary along Tel. 0435.76393 Cadore: a 150-m climb, with the barracks signposted) site is made up of a complex of Fax 0435.519075 spaces), Pellegrini (6 spaces) or Casera delle which information signposts have been provided Fax 0435.76383 of S. Anna reached after a climb of about constructions built according to set criteria, Armente (30 spaces). During July and August, by the municipal authority, Comune di Lozzo di www.antichisentieri.org 450 m (duration 90 min). The armoured linked by a network of tunnels, posterns and traffi c is subject to a municipal ruling, with Cadore (also thanks to European funding). installation stands at an altitude of 1,050 protected communication trenches.

CIBIANA VENAS DI CADORE AURONZO LOZZO PIEVE DI CADORE

38 39 17 M. TUDAIO FORT (BL) 19 MUSEUM OF THE 1914-18 GREAT WAR AT TRE SASSI (BL) function of the “opera bassa” (lower works) of Col Piccolo. This truly fascinating site may be reached place between 1897 and 1901. This was the via a truly excellent route the slopes of which were Fortress last stronghold of the Habsburg Empire prior to Museum the descent into the Val Badia valley. This is a gouged out of the rock sides with explosives. 1915 - 1918 1914- 1918 The view from the top is truly spectacular, taking ‘Second Generation’ fortifi cation built according in the Val Ansiei (Ansiei valley) and the Tre Cime Free entry to approaches to military strategies and to Entrance fee (three peaks) of Lavaredo. The armoured battery, fortifi cation which were soon to change in the Municipality: light of the introduction of modern gunnery Municipality: which was originally fi tted with four Armstrong Vigo di Cadore Cortina d’Ampezzo gun domes (149 A) was destroyed by an Austrian and new explosives. It was devastated by The M. Tudaio fortress can be reached via the mine. However, the ground and fi rst fl oors were Italian shellfi re during the early months of the war. Major restoration work here has received Location: military road from Rio Soandre (897 m), of practically untouched (with their corridors, powder Valparola a length of 8.2 km, with a 1,217-metre climb magazine and storerooms carved out of the rock). The question of the name of this fortress, the support and funding of the European (duration: 8-9 h) (Alpine excursion). This structure The entire complex of fortifi cations makes up part serving as a museum of the “G.G.” (Grande Community. The rooms host exhibits gathered Comune Vigo di Cadore Guerra, or Great War) is the object of debate from nearby zones of the front, as well as Open: 15 June- was constructed between 1911 and 1915 on the of a signposted historical itinerary organised by the 30 September, and Tel. 0435.77002 and disagreement among historians and testimony from illustrious servicemen such as top of Monte Tudaio (Mount Tudaio) at an altitude Comune di Vigo (municipality of Vigo) (also thanks throughout the year for Fax 0435.77002 topographers. The construction work took the renowned author, Curzio Malaparte. of 2,114 metres. The aim was to supplement the to European funding). groups (min.15 persons) (booking required). Tel: 347.4970781 340.3586791 www.cortinamuseoguerra.it

AURONZO VIGO DI CADORE LORENZAGO ARABBA FALZAREGO CORTINA [email protected]

18 MUSEUM OF THE GREAT WAR AT MARMOLADA (BL)(20 MUSEUM OF THE SEVENTH REGIMENT OF ALPINE TROOPS BL) windows look over a considerable portion of 1887) to our own era. The exhibits therefore include documents, arms and memorabilia from the chains of the Dolomites and, beyond the Museum Dolomites, toward the Swiss and Austrian Museum the various zones of action of the Regiment Alps. The view is so imposing that one tends to 1915 - 1917 both in times of war and peace. However, the 1915 -1918 forget the suffering of the Italians and Austrians museum is mainly given over to the Great Free entry War. Most of the collections date back to this Entrance fee who served at the emplacement at ‘Serauta period, providing a record of the various actions forcella V’ (alt. 3,065 m). The pharmacist of Municipality: Municipality: of the companies and battalions of the 7th the Marche region, Mario Bartoli, began to Rocca Pietore Sedico Regiment on the Dolomites, Lagorai, Altopiano Location: collect material for the museum in 1988, and and Massiccio del Grappa front. The recently his work led to inauguration on 9 June 1990. Location: founded museum includes the collections of Villa Patt The aim of the museum is to commemorate Serauta - Marmolada The museum is currently closed for renovation the historic memorial museum once located in The museum is located at the Serauta and honour all who (in the icy weather work. Opening is planned for 2010 (Sundays, the Salsa barracks in Belluno. The museum is cableway station at an altitude of 2,950 conditions of this location and in the darkness Tel. 0437.522984 entrance fee charged). The many exhibits managed by the provincial local government Tel.0437.83075 metres, at the edge of a glacier. This is the of the tunnels) fought courageously, suffered Fax 0437.722972 at the Museo del 7° Alpini (museum of the authority, Provincia di Belluno, in collaboration 959162 seventh regiment of Alpine troops) record the with chapters of the ANA (Associazione highest altitude museum in Europe. The large and died for their homeland. Opening and closing: the (offi ce hours) history of this formation from its origins (in nazionale alpini) of the Belluno area. museum can be reached www.belluno.ana.it by cableway from Malga [email protected] PASSO FEDAIA MALGA CIAPELA Ciapela (open when S.GIUSTINA SEDICO No entrance fee charged cableway is operating; for children up to the age of CANAZEI ROCCA opening and closing FELTRE BELLUNO six; reductions for groups PIETORE times: 9:30-15:30). and for the disabled. 40 41 21 THE SMALL BOSI REFUGE MUSEUM (BL) 23 THE SMALL MUSEUM OF THE GREAT WAR (BL)

This small but signifi cant museum maintain their positions, whatever the occupies a room at the Rifugio Bosi (Bosi Museum cost, while, from time to time, engaging Museum refuge: alt. 2,325 m). The collection 1915 - 1917 the enemy in order to relieve other fronts. includes objects, pictures, documents This was the situation from the time of the 1915 - 1917 and photographs, with special attention Entrance fee outbreak of hostilities in the spring of 1915 Free entry paid to the Monte Piana (Mount Piana) Municipality: until the defeat at Caporetto, when the front Municipality: emplacements, which formed an integral Auronzo di Cadore receded in the autumn of 1917. Material Sappada part of the Tre Cime – Misurina sector testimony of these events (excavations, (one of the major strategic centres of Location: tunnels and fortifi cations) is to be found Location: wartime operations in the Dolomites). Monte Piana here in abundance. The living conditions of Cascatelle The task of the opposing sides on the the servicemen were extremely harsh even Comelico and Sappada front was to in the absence of hostilities. Tel. 0435.39034 Tel. 0435.469131 cell. 338.4328242 Open mid-June to Seasonal opening mid-October, (summer) 26/12-6/01 and weekends until Easter: www.ilpiccolomuseodel- MISURINA 8.00 – 22.00 lagrandeguerra.it [email protected] SAPPADA CIMA SAPPADA Shuttle service: CARBONIN AURONZO www.montepiana.com [email protected] AURONZO COLLINA tel. 338.5282447 336.309730

22 THE GREAT WAR ‘15 – ‘18 (BL)(24 ANGEL OF THE FALLEN (2.300 m) BL) Thanks to the research so diligently and della Croda” chapel we fi nd the “Angelo dei Caduti” (angel of the fallen), a forgotten patiently conducted by Ottavio Molin both Museum Monument in Italy and abroad, we have a rare and, work by the sculptor from Ancona, Vittorio historically speaking, extremely valuable 1915 - 1918 Monelli. Monelli produced this work in 1916 1916 collection of photographs of the ‘Grande while serving on this front with the Eighth Free entry Regiment of the Rifl e Corps (8° Reggimento Guerra’ (Great War). Alongside the del Corpo dei Bersaglieri), the regiment to photographs, the museum exhibits include Municipality: Municipality: Auronzo di Cadore which the sculpture is dedicated. We see, Auronzo di cadore many other historic items, including the here, a winged “Genio” or spirit brandishing arms and equipment of these armies, a great sword and a crown of laurels. At discovered after painstaking research the foot of this imposing fi gure is a nest Location: in the neighbourhood, which saw bitter of serpents, representing the adversities Misurina fi ghting. The museum occupies the third This monument can be reached by car from of warfare. Also featured is the insignia of fl oor of Palazzo Corte Metto, a property Tel. 0435.9321 the Rifugio Auronzo refuge on the toll road the “8° Bersaglieri” and the devices of the of the municipality, Comune di Auronzo Opening and closing from Misurina, and along the mule track various regiments serving on this stretch for the Rifugio Lavaredo (with a brief walk di Cadore. times: of the front. An inscription dedicated to all of about 1 hour). At the Piani di Lavaredo those killed in battle was placed on the rocky from 1 July to 30 (Lavaredo plains), just below the “Madonna base of the statue. AURONZO September, 16:00-19:00 (booking required for visits during all other MISURINA PIEVE DI months) CADORE MISURINA RIFUGIO AURONZO RIFUGIO LAVAREDO

42 43 25 VALFONDA MEMORIAL TABLET (1.500 m) (BL) 27 SALESEI OSSUARY (BL)

of the war, we fi nd this memorial tablet unknown victims. This memorial (by (uncovered by the Lancedelli family from Monument architect Giovanni Greppi and sculptor Memorial Giannino Castiglioni) was built in 1938 Cortina). It bears the date, 31 August 1916. 1916 This was a summer lost to trench warfare to replace the old war cemetery in this 1917 - 1918 Free entry and crushing monotony. The plaque was area, below Col di Lana. The form of the Free entry once surrounded by a village of huts. Of memorial seen from above, along the Municipality: “strada delle Dolomiti” (Dolomites road) Municipality: the numerous names listed, many are also Auronzo di cadore to be found at the Sacrario di Pocol (Pocol is that of a great white cross at the head Livinallongo del of which stands an old alpine chapel, Col di Lana memorial). The dedication is to an entire Location: The “Statale Misurina – Carbonin” company belonging to the “Brigata Umbria” which was at the old cemetery. This Valfonda (Misurina – Carbonin State road) leads commanded by Major Pio Ivrea of the 53rd construction (Latin cross plan) consists in to the Ponte della Marogna (Marogna “Vercelli” regiment. The work, by Giuseppe the intersection of parallel masonry-work Open: summer season bridge). Following the stony banks of Pullini, Francesco da Rold and Attilio Murer, Here lie the remains of 704 men killed in embrasures holding the layers of burial the torrent, on the right we fi nd the old was made possible by the efforts of Capt. battle whose identity is known (including niches closed with slabs of green marble, boundary stone. A footpath leads into the Domenico Grato Civetta (Piedmontese, born 19 Austro-Hungarians) and of 4,705 with the names and ranks of the fallen. wood where, amid material testimony in 1881).

PIEVE DI LIVINALLONGO ANDRAZ

ARABBA PASSO FALZAREGO CARBONIN MISURINA AURONZO

26 PORDOI PASS GERMAN MEMORIAL (BL)(28 THE POCOL OSSUARY BL) itself, on the “strada delle Dolomiti” two-tier base. Here lie 9,707 Italians (Dolomites road). There is a convenient Memorial killed in battle (4,455 unknown) and Memorial lane by means of which visitors can 37 Austro-Hungarians. The crypt at the reach the memorial on foot in a matter of 1917 - 1918 centre of the tower hosts a monument 1915 - 1917 minutes. This memorial complex includes Free entry to the “Fante morto” (dead infantryman) Free entry an octagonal tower and a large two-tier and the tombs of Gen. Antonio Cantore circular base. The central crypt holds the Municipality: (decorated with gold metal for military Municipality: remains of 454 German servicemen killed Livinallongo del valour) and Capt. Francesco Barbieri. Cortina d’Ampezzo in battle and 8,128 Austro-Hungarians Col di Lana They died in the Tofane area and at from various war cemeteries. Costabella, respectively. To the right of the The Sacrario Germanico (German Under the external tiers lie 842 fallen This memorial, designed by engineer monumental area is a chapel built in 1916 memorial) at the Passo Pordoi (Pordoi Wehrmacht soldiers of World War II, from Giovanni Raimondi, was built in 1935. by the Alpine soldiers of the 5° gruppo pass) stands at an altitude of 2,239 various cemeteries of the province of Open: summer season It consists in an imposing tower of (fi fth group), as chapel to the old war Tel. 0436.866251 metres, slightly to the east of the pass Belluno. a height of 48 metres resting on a cemetery. Opening and closing times: Wed.-Sun., morning: 9:00-12:30 POCOL afternoon: CANAZEI PASSO PORDOI ARABBA summer, 14:30-18:00 PASSO FALZAREGO CORTINA D’AMPEZZO winter, 13:30-17:00 VAL DI FASSA ALLEGHE

44 45 29 “CAMPO DELL’ONORE” (BL) 31 SPIZ ZUEL EMPLACEMENTS AND TUNNELS (BL) 1923. Here lie the bodies (common grave) of is the system of tunnels (totalling 340 about 1,000 of the fallen during the clashes Memorial metres), the entrances to which can be Area of interest on the Dorsale Carnica Occidentale (western reached easily (at altitudes 1,981 m and Carnic ridge). The site is dedicated to the 1915 - 1917 1,977 m). 1915 - 1917 memory of the infantry second lieutenant A leisurely visit to the works here, taking Adriano Lobetti Bodoni, a very young Free entry Free entry in all the sights, will require 5/6 hours (be university student (22) who died on 4 August Municipality: careful, and bring a torch if you wish to visit Municipality: 1915 during one of the tremendous battles at Santo Stefano di the Roteck, the Monte Piana (Mount Piana) of the tunnels). The site can be reached on Zoldo Alto the Tyrolean front. His family made a donation Cadore foot after leaving your car at the settlement after the war for the construction of this The Spiz Zuel summit provides a of Chiesa at Malga Grava (the Grava memorial, to provide a place of rest also for commanding view of the entire Zoldo valley shepherds’ refuge or pasture land) (1,627 these former foes whose bodies were carried and the mountains, Civetta and Pelmo. m, C.A.I., Italian Alpine Club, trail mark Visitors can reach this (unattended) memorial down here (at the insistence and through the The ridge features various defensive no. 557). A fi ne military mule track (laid in Comune di Zoldo Alto by car. It is located at Santo Stefano di piety of Don Angelo Arnoldo, chaplain of the works including artillery emplacements, 1916 and 1917) winds up from here in a Cadore, next to the non-military cemetery, Tel. 0437-789177 Seventh Regiment of the ‘Alpini’). This is the communication trenches and blockhaus fairly leisurely manner (C.A.I. trail mark no. and is permanently open. The “Campo resting place also of the ‘Alpino sconosciuto’ Fax 0437-789101 units. A particularly noteworthy feature 584) to Spiz Zuel (2,033 m) or Agnelessa. dell’Onore” (fi eld of honour) dates back to (unknown alpine soldier) of Popera.

COMELICO S.STEFANO CADORE PASSO DURAN CHIESA FORNO DI ZOLDO

30 FORCELLA MOSCHESIN ROAD AND BARRACKS (BL)(32 MONTE PUNTA AND COL DE SALERA BL) outfl ank our Cordevole, Maè and Boite defensive by the architect, Alberto Alpago Novello. works. The itinerary can be prolonged toward Area of interest The military road is equally interesting, Area of interest Forcella Pongol, Forcella Folega (the Pongol with its imposing rubblework and various and Folega passes) and the crest of Monte 1915- 1917 trenched lines of defence. On the summit, 1915 - 1917 Valaraz (the site also of cave mouth artillery Free entry we fi nd an observatory, and splendid Free entry emplacements). Forcella Moschesin (1,961 m) views, taking in the surrounding peaks can be reached from Conaggia (a district of La Municipalites: of the Dolomites and the entire Zoldo Municipalites: Valle Agordina), following C.A.I., Italian Alpine La Valle Agordina valley. From Casal (a district of Zoldo at Zoldo Alto, Club, trail mark no. 542 in the direction of Malga e Forno di Zoldo an altitude of 1,050 m) proceed westward Forno di Zoldo e An audaciously conceived military road led from Foca (the Foca shepherds’ refuge or pasture along the road until C.A.I. (Italian Alpine Zoppe’ di Cadore Conaggia to the Forcella Moschesin (Moschesin land), from the ruins of Malga Caleda Vecchia A relaxing walk along a woodland footpath Club) footpath no. 492 for the climb to Col pass) barracks (1,961 m) and then on to Val (the Caleda Vecchia shepherds’ refuge) on the takes us to M. Punta (Mount Punta) in de Salera (1,629 m). Here, follow the no. Balanzola (Balanzola valley), and to Forno di Passo Duran (Duran pass) road (C.A.I. trail mark Comune di La Valle Agordina about 3-4 hours, to visit a number of 499 trail mark toward Monte Punta (1,952 Comune di Zoldo Alto Zoldo. The road takes us to works indicating no. 543), or from Malga di Pramper (Pramper Tel. 0437.62298 - 0437.63896 interesting cave artillery emplacements m) for the descent to Forzela (1,723 m) Tel. 0437.789177 the preparations for a war planned for over shepherds’ refuge or pasture land) (trail mark Fax 0437.62027 (visitors should bring a torch) constructed and, from there, to Costa and Brusadaz. Fax 0437.789101 a considerable period of time, with solutions no. 540). These climbs are fairly tough and Comunità Montana Comune di Forno di Zoldo dell’Agordino provided for the strategic problem of how to unrelenting, and will require at least 4 hours. Tel. 0437.78144.78103 Tel. 0437.62390 - 0437.62034 Fax 0437.78341 0437.63617 - Fax 0437.62043 Comune di Forno di Zoldo Comune di Zoppe’ di Cadore AGORDO LA VALLE PASSO DURAN Tel. 0437.78144 - 78103 Tel. 0437-791000 Fax 0437.78341 FORNO DI ZOLDO ZOPPE’ DI CADORE Fax 0437-791900 46 47 33 FORCELLA CIANDOLADA AND BECCO DI CUZZE (BL) 35 VALLE DELL’ACQUA (BL) cave storeroom (and, originally, protection and The start of the footpath is indicated by a red sign extensive barbed wire fencing) were designed Area of interest placed there in accordance with the provisions Area of interest and constructed between 1916 and 1917 by the of progetto Interreg (Inter-regional project) III. 1915 - 1917 architect from Belluno, Lieutenant Alberto Alpago The climb on foot takes about one hour. Valle 1900 Novello. The recommended itinerary starts out Free entry dell’Acqua was the site of the GHQ for the entire Free entry from the Forcella Ciandolada (Ciandolada pass) war sector of Col di Mezzo and the Piani di road (trail marks no. 478 and no. 456). Leave Municipality: Lavaredo (Lavaredo plains) above, linked to the Municipality: your car in the vicinity of the Rifugio Talamini Vodo di Cadore valley by well-built, clearly routed mule tracks. Auronzo di Cadore (Talamini refuge) (1,582 m) and take, fi rst, the The village is quite unusual. The barracks, the livestock housing, a warehouse, the water pool, The Ciandolada road, an old route linking the road up to Forcella Cucei (Cucei pass) (1,693 m) Forcella Location: Misurina and a “calchera” (for heating lime) provide clear Boite and Maè valleys, was vital for construction and then the footpath along the Becco di Cuzze Ciandolada indications as to what went on behind the front. ridge (approx. 1,750 m). A walk along the entire of the so-called ‘Linea Gialla’ (yellow line) The Valle dell’Acqua (valley of water) is reached The various structures making up the complex Tel. 0435/489019 which, proceeding from the Agordino region to ridge will take about 4 hours. An easy walk at via a footpath branching off after the fi fth bend were used by the “Truppe Alpine” until about thirty the Carnia region, was planned to enable our fi rst, it then becomes more demanding − with Fax 0435/489446 in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (three peaks of years ago for military exercises. The buildings were army to put up all-out resistance if the front many ups and downs − until the summit of Lavaredo) road after Malga di Rinbianco (the therefore maintained in the good state of repair. receded. Most of the trenched complexes with Becco di Cuzze. Rinbianco shepherds’ refuge or pasture land). They have been restored after a period of neglect.

ZOPPE’ DI CADORE VODO DI CADORE DOBBIACO MISURINA AURONZO

34 CRODA DELL’ARGHENA (KATZENLEITNERKOPF, 2.252 m) (BL)(36 PIANI DI LAVAREDO (2.300 m) BL)

splendid panoramic views and for its war works. imposing Angelo dei Caduti (angel of the fallen) monument and of the vestiges of the nearby The history of this mountain is inextricably linked Area of interest Area of interest to controversies surrounding the old boundaries war cemetery wall. The Piani di Lavaredo between Austria and Italy. War memories are 1915 - 1917 (Lavaredo plains) present a salient at “Quota di 1915 - 1917 therefore linked to much older, fascinating guerra 2385” (war altitude 2,385), a modest adventures, one trace of which is the old, well- Free entry summit behind the Rifugio Lavaredo refuge preserved boundary stone dated 1753. At the (this was a wartime observatory for the Italian ‘forcella’ (pass) of the same name we fi nd some Municipality: artillery). Alpine Troops under Capt. Mazzini Municipality: of the most remarkable trench works of the area, Auronzo di Cadore were stationed here (75th Company and 58th Auronzo di Cadore supported by rubblework walls (evident remains Mountain Battery) also before hostilities were From Misurina, Croda dell’Arghena is reached declared. The site of the barracks, destroyed of the protection works are also to be found Location: Misurina Location: Misurina starting out from the toll booth for the road to here). We also fi nd caves for the artillery, with This site can be reached on foot in about one by Austrian shellfi re on the fi rst day of the the Tre Cime (three peaks). After a brief stretch fi ne insignia, small suspension bridges, shelters hour from the Rifugio Auronzo (2,330 m). War, is worth also visiting for the remarkable of asphalt road from Malga di Rinbianco (the and a short tunnel leading into the mountain via The walk takes visitors to an area occupied view of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (three Rinbianco shepherds’ refuge or pasture land) a wooden stairway still intact after nearly one by a chapel originally dedicated to Our Lady peaks of Lavaredo). We fi nd emplacements, (1,841 m) visitors will fi nd the signposts, hundred years of wind, rain and snow. Here is Help of Christians. Immediately after the communication and other trenches and an provided along the entire itinerary, by the progetto a world in which, in the shadows of Tre Cime church we fi nd details signposted by progetto impressively engineered stairway (with safety Interreg (Inter-regional project) III. This relaxing di Lavaredo, memories of the past − great and Interreg (Inter-regional project) III for a visit features) gouged out of the rock face, leading walk of about 90 minutes is noteworthy for its small − vividly present themselves to the eye. to the museum, below, in the direction of the up to the observatory.

DOBBIACO MISURINA AURONZO DOBBIACO MISURINA AURONZO

48 49 37 VAL MARZON (1.000 m) (BL) 39 MONTE MIARON EMPLACEMENT (BL)

and an area from which troops were deployed of Passo della Mauria, for eastward defence to the various zones of the front. One could of the Cadore redoubt by contrasting enemy Area of interest rest here prior to action. Roads and cableways Area of interest movements from Carnia. From Passo della linked the locality to the three lofty peaks, Tre 1915 - 1917 1915- 1917 Cime di Lavaredo. So, although not noted for Mauria (Mauria pass), the fi ne, winding military this function, this valley hosted one of the most Free entry road takes us upward for 4 km to the enclosure Free entry for the medium-calibre guns. Round a further important military locations. Indeed, still today, Municipality: Municipality: bend we fi nd the “Monte Miaron” barracks. along the lower carriage road leading up, we fi nd Auronzo di Cadore Lorenzago di emplacements and machine and small gun nests The panorama is breathtakingly beautiful (the Cadore Val Marzon (the Marzon valley) is located not which indicate that there was, here, a line of Marmarole, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Tudaio, Location: far after the start of the route from Auronzo to defence to protect the newly constructed citadel. Terze, Carnia mountains). The function of Misurina. Just after entering the valley, on the Val Marzon Cason de La Croséra (1,207 m): in ten minutes the area during the Great War was that of state road, on the other side of a large pile of or so, visitors may reach a modest and quite “appuntamento” (to provide information on the gravel forming the riverbank, we fi nd the remains remarkable war cemetery where, it is said, the Comune di The enclosure for medium calibre artillery shellfi re from the other batteries of the fortress, of the “Fontana degli uffi ciali” (offi cers’ fountain), fi rst of the soldiers killed in battle on the Tre Cime Lorenzago di Cadore in the location called “Ospedaletti” (small with shelters nearby was created between Fortezza Cadore-Maè), hence the telephone di Lavaredo front were buried on 24 May 1915. Tel. 0435.75001 hospitals). The Val Marzon was a key logistical Here, we also fi nd a fi ne washing trough with 1911 and 1912 by the Italian Engineer Corps link with the Col Piccolo fortress and the main Fax 0435.75329 base for the various Infantry Regiments of the dates and graffi ti. The site also hosted a “fi eld at an altitude of 1,700 m, to the southwest installations to the other side of the Piave river. Brigata “Marche”. It was also a storage area hospital” (Ospedaletto nr. 42).

PASSO MAURIA

MISURINA AURONZO LORENZAGO FORNI DI SOPRA

38 COL CIAMPON BASE (BL) The site is located at an easily walkable distance from Laggio di Cadore, along the fi ne Area of interest military route. This emplacement was a part of the defences erected immediately after 1866 1915 - 1917 on all the surrounding hills in order to ensure Free entry control of the Tre Ponti (three bridges) pass. During the Great War this “punto di appoggio” Municipality: (base) was strengthened with covered Comune di Vigo “blockhaus” emplacements, gun enclosures, di Cadore artillery observation points and hutments for the 120-man garrison. Thanks to the progetto Interreg (Inter-regional project), all the structures have been conserved and the area Comune Vigo di Cadore has been fully signposted. Tel. 0435.77002 Fax 0435.77002

AURONZO LAGGIO LORENZAGO

50 51 Ecomuseum of Piave, Grappa and Montello 54 55 1 VAL DELLE MURE (TV)(3 LEONE FORT BL) This valley was one of the most its defensive function, during the war this devastated of the areas of the Grappa Battlefi eld fortifi cation was dismantled (artillery and Fort district in 1918. Even today, we see clear machine guns removed). In 1917, during the traces of the links to the front line from 1918 retreat following the defeat at Caporetto, a 1915- 1917 behind, along which, within range of Free entry battle (which delayed the Austro-Hungarian Free entry Austro-Hungarian shellfi re, Italian supplies advance) took place in the environs of and the wounded were transported at Municipality: these twin fortifi cations. The fortress fell Municipality: considerable risk. Make sure you pay Crespano del Grappa into Austrian hands on 12 November after a Arsié a visit to the “Sentiero delle Meatte” bitter struggle. While the Cima Lan fortress (Meatte footpath). This military route Forte Leone (Leone fort) at Cima Campo was more or less totally destroyed by was excavated in the rock and takes in a and the Cima Lan fortress were built the fl eeing Italians, Forte Leone suffered number of natural bulwarks. between 1906 and 1912. Forte Leone considerable damage prior to the Austrian was part of the “Fortezza Brenta-Cismon” retreat the following year. Restoration work Tel. 0439.59093 fortifi cation works along the border has taken place over the last few years, 0439.59115 between the Kingdom of Italy and the including the application of safety measures, Fax 0439.750000 Austro-Hungarian Empire. Having lost and the site is now suitable for visits. www.forteleone.it CIMA GRAPPA PEDEROBBA ARSIE’

BASSANO TREVISO FONZASO CISMON

2 MONTE TOMBA (TV)(4 VITTORIO EMANUELE III TUNNEL TV)

If we are to unravel the key events of This “galleria”, or tunnel, of a length the Great War, the developments at Battlefi eld of more than 5,000 metres, running Fort Monte Tomba (Mount Tomba) must be under the peak of Monte Grappa (Mount understood. As you admire the landscape, 1917 Grappa), was completed by the Gavotti 1917 - 1918 if you look carefully you will notice Free entry sappers in a matter of months. This Free entry many bomb craters and the signs of was a formidable fortifi cation which, trench works. These are the traces of the Municipality: with its artillery and machine guns, Municipality: developments of 1917, when the Italians Cavaso del Tomba was invincible in all theatres of confl ict. Crespano del Grappa were engaged in a tremendous battle Considerable logistics organisation work against the Austrians and Germans. A saw to the provision of victuals, water and Location: Cima Grappa key historical fi gure, German lieutenant, ammunition to the 1,500 troops serving Erwin Rommel, took the Tomba ridge at all times in the tunnel, with their 35 in November 1917. However, a month cannons and 50 machine guns (cave Tel. e Fax 0423.544840 later, the summit was taken back by the mouth emplacements). Open all year. “Chasseurs des Alpes”.

CIMA DEL GRAPPA CIMA GRAPPA PEDEROBBA

BASSANO PEDEROBBA BASSANO TREVISO

56 57 5 GAZZERA FORT (VE)(7 MARGHERA FORT VE) Built between 1886 and 1890, this is The location of this fortress is of interest the oldest of the fortresses of the fi rst Fort in its own right. The fortress stands barrier for the defence of the “Campo between the mainland and the lagoon on Fort Trincerato di Mestre” (Mestre entrenched 1915 - 1918 an area of about thirty hectares. It was 1915 - 1918 fi eld). While basically resembling the built on two concentric islands. Work was Free entry Free entry Tron and Carpenedo fortifi cations, this started by the Austrians in 1805, to be work is closer to the original “Tunkler” Municipality: completed by the French between 1809 Municipality: model projects. Inside, we fi nd fi ne vaults Venezia and 1814. This is the oldest and largest of Venezia linking the various parts of the fortress, the 11 fortresses making up the “Campo enabling troop mobility under cover at all Trincerato di Mestre” (Mestre entrenched times. The spaces were very narrow, and fi eld). Between 1848 and 1849, it became the long narrow corridors vaguely bring the advanced defence position for the Opening and closing times: to mind the interior of a medieval manor For group bookings, newly constituted Republic of Venice, Feb-Apr, Fridays and house. every day. holding out for nearly a year against the Saturdays 14:00-18:00; Info: Sig. Graziano Fusati Austrian forces. It now hosts a fi ne arms Sundays 10:00-18:00. Apr-Oct, tel. e fax 041.910021, museum. 10:00-18:00 cell. 347.1819790 GAZZERA ASSEGGIANO [email protected] SAN GIULIANO Info: tel. 041.5319706 fax 041.5311108 www.fortegazzera.it [email protected] MESTRE NOALE MESTRE VENEZIA

6 BAZZERA FORT (VE)(8 CARPENEDO FORT VE) fi eld) was provided with a second, outer, Gazzera and Tron fortresses, makes ring of fortresses. The new fortresses Fort up the innermost defensive ring of the Fort were no longer to include their respective “Campo Trincerato di Mestre” (Mestre powder magazines, which were to 1915 - 1918 entrenched fi eld), surrounding Forte 1915 - 1918 be placed in areas at a distance (and Free entry Marghera and contributing to the land Free entry barycentrically, if possible) to serve a defences of the “Piazza di Difesa number of fortifi cations. One was located Municipality: Marittima di Venezia” (Venice marine Municipality: at Tessera, and in 1910 the “Polveriera Venezia defence stronghold). Completely Venezia Bazzera” (Bazzera powder magazine) was surrounded by an artifi cial pond, the area constructed. It is made up of two imposing of the fortress comes to a total of 15 reinforced concrete bunkers on an artifi cial hectares. After conversion to deposit use Between 1907 and 1910 the “Campo island protected by earthworks, hiding it at the time of the actions of World War Trincerato di Mestre” (Mestre entrenched from view from the mainland. Opening and closing Built during the 1890’s according to the I, plant growth has gradually reclaimed Opening and closing times: Apr-Oct: Tues-Sun times: model termed “Tunkler” or “Prussiano”, the entire area. It is now a thriving nature Apr-Sept 09:00-20:00; 9:00-13:00; 15:30-sunset this structure, with the contemporary reserve. Mon closed. Oct-March 09:00-18:00. Nov-Feb: Wed-Sun 9:00-13:00; 15:00-sunset CAMPALTO TESSERA Info: Tel. 338.3422724 CARPENEDO 393.0401358. Mon and Tues closed. www.fortebazzera.it Info: tel. e fax 041.5352041 MESTRE TRIESTE www.ccrt.it MESTRE TERRAGLIO fax 041.5311108 [email protected] 58 59 9 AMALFI BATTERY (VE)(11 MUSEUM AT SAN GIOVANNI AI COLLI ALTI VI)

was one of the most innovative artillery The hotel, Albergo San Giovanni, hosts a emplacements. It featured a naval-type Fort small war museum dedicated to the war Museum double-cannon turret (360° range) with history researcher, Roberto Favero. 1915 - 1918 1918 tremendous 381-mm cannons capable of The museum houses many relics of the heavy (875-kg) shellfi re over a distance Free entry fi nal decisive local confl icts. The relics still Free entry of nearly 20 kilometers. When its big guns regularly, and in considerable quantities, Municipality: Municipality: played a signifi cant part in weakening the emerge from the earth. Cavallino Treporti Solagna last Austro-Hungarian offensive on the Exhibits include uniforms, military and Location: Piave front during the days of the Battaglia medical items, personal possessions San Giovanni ai Colli Alti del Solstizio (solstice battle) (June 1918), (e.g. mess-tins, canteens, inkpots, pens, cigarette lighters, cigarette cases, small Albergo San Giovanni Construction work on the “Amalfi ” battery even Italy’s foes were impressed by medals, combs, brushes and shaving began in May 1915. Work continued the new Amalfi battery’s precision and brushes) and considerable quantities of Tel. 0424.556008 until spring 1917. The Batteria Amalfi effi ciency. ammunition. Opening and closing times: 8.00 a.m. until bar closes. SAN GIOVANNI Closed Tuesdays except CAVALLINO TREPORTI AI COLLI ALTI during summer season. www.collialti.it JESOLO VENEZIA BASSANO CIMA GRAPPA

10 MUSEUM OF THE ITALIAN ALPINE TROOPS (VI)(12 MILAN BARRACKS MUSEUM TV) collection of exhibits relating to the history of Milano” (Milan barracks) now hosts an the “Alpini” alpine troops. Various objects are interesting, well-organised museum with Museum Museum on display: memorabilia, newspapers of that a large collection of items recovered from period, fl ags, uniforms and other items, kindly 1915 - 1918 the Grappa massif. 1918 donated by members and many other citizens. Free entry Material of interest has also been donated Free entry The museum fi rst opened in 1948, on the by private persons. occasion of the fi rst gathering of Alpini after Municipality: A series of panels gives a clear account Municipality: World War II. Over the years, the museum has Bassano del Grappa of the main wartime events involving Crespano del Grappa been constantly looked after and reorganised. the Grappa massif and offshoots, on It has recently been refurbished. the basis of which visitors will have the Location: Cima Grappa On the western side of the bridge, Ponte A particularly important exhibit is the information they need for a profi table visit Vecchio, the Taverna degli Alpini hosts the reconstruction of a trench with original to the nearby “Galleria Vittorio Emanuele local chapter of the association of Italian materials from Grappa, the Tofane heights and Tel. 0424.503662 III” (Vittorio Emanuele III tunnel) and the Tel. and fax alpine troops, A.N.A. On the lower fl oor we the heights of the Dolomites, where military Opening and closing The main block of the structure that, monumental Ossario del Grappa (Grappa 0423.544840 fi nd a museum with a small but signifi cant actions took place. times: during the war, was the “Caserma ossuary). Open year round. Daily (closed

BASSANO DEL GRAPPA Mondays), CIMA DEL GRAPPA 9:00-20:00

MAROSTICA MONTEBELLUNA BASSANO PEDEROBBA

60 61 13 MUSEUM OF THE GREAT WAR ON THE GRAPPA MASSIF (TV)(15 PHOTOGRAPHIC MUSEUM OF THE GREAT WAR BL)

Bruno Xamin to the municipality, Comune The museum displays photographic testimony di Crespano) in showcases placed in (held by the State archives and War Museum Museum in Vienna) relating to the municipalities of the Museum three rooms. Grappa district, gathered by the photographers The three rooms present various ‘themes’ 1915 - 1917 1915 - 1918 of the Austro-Hungarian forces during the year (“il rancio”, or meal, or mess, “l’ospedale Free entry of the invasion (1917-1918). Also on display Free entry da campo”, or fi eld hospital, “tempo are various items such as shells (Italian and libero”, free time, and “la trincea”, the Municipality: Municipality: Crespano del Grappa Austro-Hungarian), propaganda leafl ets, offi cial Seren del Grappa trench). maps, passports and other offi cial documents, Each theme is illustrated and dealt with fuses and primers, and personal possessions The museum is situated on the second in depth with panels and photographs found in the trenches. The arrangement is fl oor of the Palazzo Reale at Crespano del reproducing signifi cant moments in the ‘theme’ based: the invasion, Feltre and the Grappa. It hosts more than a thousand Great War relating to the Massiccio del district of Feltre, war works, the war, people and places, and health care during the war. duly catalogued exhibits (donated by Mr Grappa (Grappa massif). Tel. 0423.538516 Comune Seren del Grappa Biblioteca Comunale Tel. 0439.44013 (municipal library) 0439.394301 Opening and closing Fax 0439.394147 times: Thursdays and BORSO CRESPANO SEREN DEL GRAPPA POSSAGNO Fridays,16:00-19:00; booking required FONZASO FELTRE BASSANO PEDEROBBA for other days.

14 CIVIC HISTORICAL AND TERRITORIAL MUSEUM (BL)(16 MUSEUM OF THE RIVER PIAVE BL) municipality, Comune di Alano di Piave, directly or indirectly involved in the event, in 2000. There are fi ve exhibition halls Museum and it depends also on the efforts of Museum providing a historical account of a number others who have a particular interest of events of World War I. The spaces 1915 - 1918 in this particular moment in history. It 1915 - 1918 are ‘theme’ based. We fi nd a large scale Entrance fee was decided to ‘liven up’ the exhibits Entrance fee model of the area in which the fi ghting by reconstructing scenes − platforms took place between the slopes of Monte Municipality: conveying the experiences of various Municipality: Vas Grappa (Mount Grappa) and the areas Alano di Piave moments in the lives of soldiers, from the neighbouring the River Piave. We also trench to the fi eld infi rmary. The visitor Location: Caorera fi nd a number of instruments which were Location: Campo will feel she/she really is in the front line, a essential for opening up the communication part of events of the year 1917, between routes and which were used for territorial This is an ‘open-ended’, constantly the River Piave and Monte Grappa (Mount The museum was founded in 1983 by defence systems. A considerable amount Tel. 0439.779748 expanding museum. It is provided with Grappa). Five multimedia simulated fl ight Tel. 0439.787060 a veterans’ association, “Associazione of exhibition space has been given over to For visit with guide: the testimony and objects of people stations have recently been installed. [email protected] ex Combattenti”. It was acquired by the devices used in trenches. 0423.86232 www.museodelpiave.it 0439.779997 Opening and closing times: Groups half-price ALANO QUERO Saturday: QUERO ALANO Opening and closing 15:00-18:00

times: TREVISO FELTRE Sunday: CAORERA FELTRE TREVISO Sundays, 15:00-19:00 9:00 -12:00 and 15:00-18:00

62 63 17 THE FONTIGO MIDDLE PIAVE MUSEUM (TV)(191 HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF THE GREAT WAR TV)

(middle Piave environmental education River Piave. The British Expeditionary centre) − provides interesting Museum Force played a decisive part in actions Museum documentation on the Great War, with during the crucial stages of the fi nal battle, particular reference to the Piave area. It 1915 - 1918 1915 - 1918 known as “Battaglia di Vittorio Veneto” was made possible by the contributions Free entry (battle of Vittorio Veneto). The museum at Free entry of former “recuperanti” (scrap collectors, or ‘scrappers’, who recovered ‘noble’ Municipality: Maserada houses an interesting collection Municipality: materials such as lead, brass and copper Sernaglia della of fi ndings that turned up in the river. Maserada sul Piave from the battlefi elds after the war) and by Battaglia The collection focuses on the history of, constant observation of, and searches and material relating to, the taking of the along, the banks of the Piave river. These Location: Fontigo river positions by the British troops of the The museum − hosted by the “Centro di fi ndings provide an account of the major Seventh Division. We also fi nd Austro- Educazione Ambientale “Media Piave”” phases of fi ghting along the river. Tel. 0438.966356 Military units from nations allied with Hungarian and Italian military material of Tel. 0422.878415 Italy were also in operation along the considerable interest. Open: Tuesdays and Thursdays, 15:00-18:30. SERNAGLIA For other special MORIAGO DELLA BATTAGLIA SPRESIANO MASERADA VARAGO opening times tel. 0422 778760 - 3401486936

VIDOR PIEVE DI SOLIGO CONEGLIANO TREVISO FONTIGO E-mail: mongolfi era. [email protected]

18 MUSEUM OF THE BATTLE OF VITTORIO VENETO (TV)(20 MUSEUM OF RECLAMATION - SAN DONA’ VE)

commemorating the Battle of Vittorio to land reclamation, “Museo della Veneto. Museum Bonifi ca”, hosts various relics of the war Museum The museum’s numerous exhibits include gathered during campaigns conducted arms, memorabilia, maps, scale models 1918 from time to time in the area of San Donà. 1915 - 1918 and photographs (belonging to the large Entrance fee The showcases contain arms and various Entrance fee collection donated by Luigi Marson, a objects which were part of the day-to- Municipality: Municipality: veteran grenadier from Vittorio Veneto). day lives of the troops in the trenches. Vittorio Veneto San Donà di Piave Visitors to the museum will feel they have One section of the hall is dedicated to the entered a time loop, landing up on the date heroes of San Donà, and in particular to 24 October 1918, at the start of the fi nal Giannino Ancillotto. We also fi nd many offensive against the Austro-Hungarian photographs of the period, detailing the Since 1938, the Loggia del Cenedese, forces, or 31 October, when the VIII Corpo destruction of the city by bombing. Opening and closing times: by the architect, Sansovino (sixteenth d’Armata (VIII Corps) liberated Vittorio Tel. 0438.57695 A room has recently been added, dedicated Tuesday to Friday 8:00-12:30 (for century), has hosted the museum Veneto within days of the armistice. Opening and closing to World War II and to the struggle for school parties); for general public, times (summer): 15:00-18:00 (16:00-19:00 in July The war section of the museum dedicated liberation (Lotta di Liberazione). and August). Saturday 9:00-12:00 10:00-12:30 (for school parties); for general 15:30-19:00. public, 15:00-18:00 (16:00-19:00 in VITTORIO VENETO CONEGLIANO (winter): NOVENTA SAN DONA’ July and August). Sunday, national holidays etc.: 9:00-12:00 Closed: 9:30-12:30 Mondays, Christmas, Easter, 1 TREVISO May, 1-15 August. BELLUNO 14:00-17:00. TREVISO CAORLE Tel. 0421-42047 - Fax. 0421-41334 Closed Mondays. www.museobonifi ca.sandonadipiave.net 64 65 21 HISTORICAL NAVAL MUSEUM (VE)(23 BOYS OF ’99 PARK VI)

The museum hosts memorabilia taking of the Great War: 300,000 eighteen us back to the times of the Republic Museum year-olds sent to the front to fi ght and Monument of Venice. These extraordinary items to die together. The monument is by the include adornments for the lights of 1915 - 1918 sculptors, Alberto Sparapani and Danilo 1918 galleys, perfect reproductions of Venetian Entrance fee Andreose. The work features a statue Free entry ships, nautical instruments, portolans, more than 3 metres tall on the stone base, standards, uniforms, paintings and the Municipality: and a votive sacellum. The statue is of an Municipality: gunnery of the “Serenissima”, or Most Venezia infantryman facing Grappa. The bas-reliefs Bassano del Grappa Serene Republic of Venice. Of the thirty reproduce the most important events of rooms, a number are dedicated to the To the north of the city, in the Conca d’Oro 1918. A bronze map indicates the main Location: actions, personages, ships and equipment (golden basin) of Prato Santa Caterina (St sites involved in the war. The crypt holds Prato Santa Caterina of the Italian naval forces (Marina Militare Catherine’s fi eld), we fi nd a park dedicated the banners of the chapters of the national The Museo Storico Navale (historical italiana) from 1961 to the present day. Tel. 041 5200276 to the memory of the “Ragazzi del ’99” “Ragazzi del ’99” association, which − as Opening and closing naval museum) is housed in one of The Arsenale hosts old boats (including (boys of ’99) − the last class of conscripts time goes by − close one after the other. times: the old sixteenth-century “Granai”, or lagoon boats and a World War II motor Mon.-Fri. grain storehouses, at the Arsenale. torpedo boat). 8:45-15:30 Sat. MUSEO NAVALE 8:45-13:00 BASSANO DEL GRAPPA Closed: Sundays, feast days and SAN MARCO GIARDINI national holidays etc. MAROSTICA MONTEBELLUNA

22 ROMAN COLUMN AT COL MOSCHIN (VI)(24 ISLAND OF THE DEAD TV) tenacity, as a strongpoint for the defence of the “Arditi” (shock troops), who, in October the southern slopes of the massif and all the Monument 1918, successfully broke through the Austrian Monument areas behind the front, greatly threatened by lines along the River Piave. This site (named, the Austrians. 1918 clearly, after the vast number of corpses found 1917 - 1918 During the summer of 1918, under General Free entry here) is now also known as “Isola Verde” Free entry Scheuschenstuel, the Austro-Hungarians tried (green island), since we fi nd here a fi ne, to break the Italian resistance at Grappa in Municipality: thriving park. A cool, tree-shaded walk takes Municipality: order to penetrate the Brenta and Piave valleys. Solagna us to an open space called “Ragazzi del ’99” Moriago della The summits to the west (Col Moschin, Col del (boys of ’99), where the main monuments and Battaglia Miglio, Col Fenilon and Col Fagheron) fell into Location: memorials are to be found. Among these are Austrian hands, and the Austrians would have Col Moschin the Piramide (pyramid) and the Tempio Votivo been able to enter the plains of Venetia had it “Madonnina del Piave” (chapel to Our Lady This sector of the Grappa massif was not been for the Italian counteroffensive (as a The “Isola dei Morti” (island of the dead) of the Piave), commemorating the sacrifi ce of extremely important, during the Great War. result of which the positions were taken back is the main place of commemoration of the Caduti sul Piave (fallen at the Piave). The Italians defended the sector with great very soon after their loss).

SERNAGLIA MORIAGO DELLA BATTAGLIA COL MOSCHIN

VIDOR PIEVE DI SOLIGO BASSANO CIMA GRAPPA

66 67 25 FRANCESCO BARACCA CHAPEL (TV)(27 HEMINGWAY MONUMENT VE)

indicates the place where the aeroplane dedicated to the wounding of Ernest of the heroic Cavalry Major, Francesco Monument Hemingway. The great American writer Monument Baracca, was shot down (during the was struck by shrapnel on 8 July 1918. afternoon of 19 June 1918) while 1918 At the time, he was a volunteer for the 1918 swooping down to spray the enemy Free entry ARC (American Red Cross) providing Free entry with machine-gun fi re and thus provide aid to the Italian medical corps on the support to the infantry, during the closing Municipality: front between Fagarè and San Donà di Municipality: stage of the Battaglia del Solstizio (battle Nervesa della Battaglia Piave. The writer’s name is associated Fossalta di Piave of the solstice). with many locations, frequently referred Baracca, a fl ying ace of what would to in his books and accounts of wartime become the Italian air force (Aeronautica developments, seen from the military Militare Italiana) is considered by all, On the banks of the Piave, near a still viewpoint and according to his own On the southern slope of Montello, a nowadays, the most notable Italian fi ghter functioning pontoon bridge, a tablet is personal experiences. funereal niche surrounded by cypresses pilot of World War I.

OSSARIO ZENSON DI PIAVE FOSSALTA MUSILE

NERVESA GIAVERA TREVISO SAN DONA’ DI PIAVE DEL MONTELLO DELLA BATTAGLIA

26 PONTOON (TV)(28 TEMPLE AND OSSUARY AT BASSANO VI) This historic relic, a pontoon, provides and a façade adorned with pinnacles. The us with a clear idea of how bridges were Monument design for this place of worship dates Memorial installed for wartime use. Given the back to 1908, and indeed this was to be urgent need to construct passages across 1918 Bassano del Grappa’s new cathedral. 1915 - 1918 the Piave, while bearing in mind the Free entry It was modifi ed after World War I to Free entry vulnerability of the structures in question accommodate the remains of the soldiers (since they were constantly under fi re), Municipality: killed in battle provisionally assigned to the Municipality: the solutions provided had to be promptly Nervesa della Battaglia cemeteries at the foot of Monte Grappa. Bassano del Grappa and rapidly implemented. This anchored Entombed within the church are 6,000 men load-bearing fl oating pontoon for solely (236 decorated). The funeral of General military use was adopted by the Genio Overlooking the square (dedicated to Gaetano Giardino was celebrated here in Pontieri (pontonier, or bridge-building, General Luigi Cadorna) is an imposing August 1936, after which the general was corps). neo-Gothic red-brick structure with two entombed at the Grappa memorial, “among bell towers of a height of sixty metres his soldiers”, as was his desire.

NERVESA DELLA BATTAGLIA BASSANO DEL GRAPPA

MONTEBELLUNA PONTE DELLA PRIULA MAROSTICA MONTEBELLUNA

68 69 29 CIMA GRAPPA WAR MEMORIAL (TV)(31 WAR CEMETERIES IN THE FELTRE DISTRICT BL)

Grappa). Among the many tombs, we may The district of Feltre hosts four war in the form we see today, on 25 May note in particular that of the Maresciallo cemeteries (three at Feltre and one 1939; – the Austro-Hungarian ossuary Memorial at Quero). At Feltre we fi nd: an Italian in Feltre’s city cemetery, with its 3,550 Memorial d’Italia General Giardino, commander of the 1917 - 1918 ossuary, maintained by Onorcaduti fallen; – the Italian ossuary, with its 1,072 1917 - 1918 Armata del Grappa (Grappa army). A wing (honour the fallen), an Austro-Hungarian identifi ed fallen and 370 unknown fallen; – of the memorial houses the remains of more Free entry ossuary also maintained by Onorcaduti the war cemetery at Quero, inaugurated on Free entry than 10,000 Austro-Hungarian soldiers (in collaboration, here, with the Austrian the same day as the San Paolo cemetery (mainly unknown). Among these fallen we Municipality: Schwarzes Kreuz), and a mixed at Feltre, with its 229 German fallen Municipalities: Crespano del Grappa cemetery at San Paolo (together with and 3,232 Austro-Hungarian fallen. The Feltre e Quero also fi nd, curiously enough, a Czech soldier the Quero mausoleum, supervised work was designed by architect Robert whose name was Peter Pan. Broad steps by the German Volksbund Deutsche Tischler, commissioned by the Volksbund. lead away from the Italian memorial to the Kriegsgräberfürsorge). It was built between 1936 and 1939. This memorial hosts the mortal remains of chapel in honour of Our Lady of Grappa. In detail, we have: – the “deutschen This work by Tischler is of fundamental Soldatenfriedhof” (German war cemetery) historical importance as an architectural more than 12,500 Italians killed in battle. Departing from the chapel is the “Via Eroica” at San Paolo, with its 271 crosses marking project because it embodies the concept The loculi were placed in the walls of a (heroes’ way) leading to the “Portale di Tel. 0423.544840. the presence of each of the Bavarian of the Totenburg (fortress, or castle, of construction that resembles a gigantic Roma” (Roman portal), which is the fi rst Opening and closing Alpenkorps soldiers killed between the dead). As a solution, the Totenburg fortress (the material used is stone from monumental entrance to the memorial. times: November 1917 and the fi rst fi fteen days became the model adopted for war 9:00-12:00; of 1918. The cemetery was inaugurated, cemetery designs during the nazi era. 13:30-16:00 CIMA DEL GRAPPA from 1/10 to 15/5; 9:00-12:00; 13:30-18:00 BASSANO PEDEROBBA TREVISO FELTRE BELLUNO from 16/5 to 30/9.

30 FRENCH WAR MEMORIAL (TV)(32 GERMAN CEMETERY AT QUERO BL) of Italy and France, as emblematically Col Maor, above the valle del Piave (Piave expressed in the monument before it: two Memorial valley). Over a period of three years, Memorial imposing personifi cations of the two nations following the bilateral agreement reached with, lying on their knees, one of the French 1917 - 1918 between Germany and Italy on 2 June 1917 - 1918 soldiers killed in battle. Between 1917 and Free entry 1936, the Volksbund constructed the war Free entry 1918, the support of the French contingent cemetery at Quero, which was inaugurated (totalling about 130,000 men) was decisive Municipality: on 25 May 1939. Municipality: for the Italian forces and for the fi nal outcome Pederobba The Quero cemetery houses 3,465 of the Quero of the struggle. Today, this imposing fallen in World War I from the German and memorial − so similar in appearance to a Austrian armies. This memorial was built to celebrate the surreal rock face − contains the remains of The hall commemorating the fallen is fraternal bonds between the armed forces more than 1,000 soldiers killed in battle. located in a tower. The hall is, relatively speaking, well lit and Opening and closing: The Quero memorial site, which can also is dominated by a block of black rock (an Summer season be seen from a fair distance, is located at adorned Swedish granite pulpit).

PEDEROBBA ALANO DI PIAVE QUERO

TREVISO FELTRE TREVISO FELTRE

70 71 33 BRITISH CEMETERY AT GIAVERA (TV)(35 WAR MEMORIAL AT FAGARE’ TV) were decorated with a gold medal. This is a typically British war cemetery. Memorial Also entombed here is Lieut. Edward McKey, an Memorial Movingly, each gravestone bears a name American Red Cross offi cer and personal friend and tender words provided by family 1917 - 1918 of the writer, Ernest Hemingway. Hemingway 1917 - 1918 members or relatives. The British, with Free entry wrote a poem in memory of McKey, which Free entry their XIV Corps, made up of the 23rd and visitors will fi nd in the monument’s central 41st Divisions, joined the Italians on 4 Municipality: chapel. The memorial garden hosts fragments Municipality: December 1917. They were active on Giavera del Montello of a wall on which, during the Battaglia del San Biagio di the Montello front and provided decisive Solstizio (battle of the solstice) (15-24 June Callalta support to the Italians’ ability to resist, 1918), persons unknown wrote two well-known and to the fi nal Italian victory. sayings: “E’ meglio vivere un giorno da leone This monument contains the remains of 5,191 che cent’anni da pecora” (better to live one day known and 5,350 unknown soldiers. as a lion than one hundred years as a sheep) Tel. 0422.790395 Among the fallen, here, we fi nd Lieut. Col. E. and “Tutti eroi. O il Piave o tutti accoppati” (We Opening and closing Paselli and Major F. Mignone, both of whom are heroes all. Either the Piave or death to us all). times: 9:00-12:00; 14:00-16:00; Every day, Mondays GIAVERA BAVARIA SOVILLA SAN BIAGIO DI CALLALTA PONTE DI PIAVE excluded.

MONTEBELLUNA NERVESA TREVISO ODERZO DELLA BATTAGLIA

34 WAR MEMORIAL AT NERVESA (TV)(36 TRENCH AT COLLI ALTI VI)

entire north-eastern side of Montello. machine gun nests or for small mortars. This square-plan structure, with its Memorial The trenches were wide enough for only Area of interest symmetrically arranged sides, is derived one fully armed soldier to pass at a time. from Roman architectural models. The 1917 - 1918 However, every 20 to 30 metres, we fi nd 1917 - 1918 belvedere of the front faces what was Free entry ‘niches’ which soldiers would back into Free entry once the theatre of the tremendous when others carried the wounded away. Battaglia del Solstizio (battle of the Municipality: Barbed wire barriers were placed a few Municipality: solstice). The interior of this building Nervesa della Battaglia dozen yards away from the trenches. The Solagna (which currently houses the remains of trench at San Giovanni ai Colli Alti was more than 9,000 soldiers killed in battle) dug out of “biancone” (white) limestone. Location: With its gigantic ‘keep’ open to the skies, is markedly monumental and imposing Surrounded by woodland, it has been Finestron this Italian war memorial dominates the in style. restored. The signposts with their panels Tel. 0422.779996 The trenches were not at all neatly laid provide information on the function of the Tel. 0424.556008 Opening and closing out since they followed the features of the trench and the conditions of life of the www.collialti.it times: terrain. Outcrops served as positions for soldiers who served here. 9:00-17:00

BAVARIA SOVILLA (from 1/5 to 30/9) SAN GIOVANNI 9:00-18:00 AI COLLI ALTI (from 1/10 to 30/4) GIAVERA NERVESA DELLA BATTAGLIA BASSANO CIMA GRAPPA

72 73 37 BASSANO REFUGE (TV)(39 THE BOCCAOR CABLEWAY TV) Reconstructed in 1935, the refuge was During the war, cableways constituted originally located where the memorial Area of interest a vital means of transport for victuals, Area of interest stands today. The refuge provides an arms, ammunition and persons. Given outstanding viewpoint, with a magnifi cent 1918 the fact that cableway transport was still 1918 view, that allows us to reconstruct the Free entry a new concept in 1914, this installation Free entry military operations and battles of Grappa. represented an enormous technological To the west, at a slightly lower altitude, Municipality: innovation. At the site, we see the remains Municipality: we fi nd the “Caserma Milano” (Milan Crespano del Grappa of a driving motor for the way between the Crespano del Grappa barracks, now a museum) and the valle di San Liberale (San Liberale valley), “Galleria Vittorio Emanuele III” tunnel, a below, and Grappa. veritable underground fortress (not yet open to the public). The refuge provides a number of services nowadays and also Tel. 0423.53101 hosts a display of photographs that evoke Open year round. wartime developments at Grappa. Closed Tuesdays during winter season.

CIMA DEL GRAPPA Please telephone CIMA GRAPPA VAL DI MURE PEDEROBBA if planning a visit.

BASSANO PEDEROBBA BASSANO TREVISO

38 CADORNA MULE TRACK (BL)(40 MONTE PALON TV) would become vitally important. He had, in Monte Palon (Mount Palon) hosted many fact, ordered fortifi cations to be built on the Area of interest Italian batteries, placed between it and Area of interest Massiccio (massif). The tactical plan for, in the Bocca di Forca. The idea was to defend eventuality, defence of the Grappa massif at all 1917 - 1918 the entire eastern wing of the “Settore del 1918 costs, foresaw a ring of mule tracks around the Grappa” (Grappa sector). The remains of northern portion of Grappa: Cima Grappa – M. Free entry Free entry Pertica – Forcelletto – Bocchette – Tasson – hutments and caves are still to be found Municipality: here today, alongside, more importantly, Municipality: Cima Grappa. Along the ring route we fi nd Seren del Grappa Possagno many entrances to tunnels and shelters, with trench works constructed by the infantry artillery emplacements and cisterns for water (mainly farming people). On the open In September 1916, Cadorna, on a visit to distribution (many of these cisterns have been Location: Forcelletto space surmounting Monte Palon we fi nd the Altipiani (uplands) front, while admiring cleaned up). The Grappa nature itinerary largely Bocchette Cima Grappa a large wooden cross commemorating the view toward Grappa, declared that, in his retraces this mule track ‘ring’. Also well worth the sacrifi ces and the valour of all who opinion “if the worst comes to the worst”, a visit are the nearby trench works between Comune Seren del Grappa fought here. Grappa, Tomba, Monfenera and Montello Croce dei Lebi and M. Casonét. Tel. 0439.44013 0439.394301 Fax 0439.394147 CIMA GRAPPA M.TE TOMBA PEDEROBBA

BASSANO TREVISO

BASSANO CIMA GRAPPA SEREN DEL GRAPPA

74 75 41 GALLERY OF PLASTER CASTS OF THE WORKS OF CANOVA (TV)(43 ROCCA DI CORNUDA TV) surely a highly noteworthy instance of the such as churches and sanctuaries. The devastation of the Great War. Here, we Area of interest “Chiesa della Rocca” (castle church), Area of interest now fi nd a splendid permanent exhibition known as the “Santuario della Madonna called ‘Arte Ferita’ (wounded art), which 1917 - 1918 della Rocca” (Sanctuary of Our Lady of 1917 evokes the tragedy of the bombing and Entrance fee the Castle) because it was built upon Free entry shelling of Possagno. the remains of the medieval castle, The action started slowly, but was Municipality: was repeatedly shelled by the Austro- Municipality: unceasing and precise. While one of the Cavaso del Tomba Hungarians during the Great War. This Cornuda major explosions was just before the was due to the strategic signifi cance “Tempio” (temple), the structure was, of this location, since it was used by miraculously, unharmed. the Italians as a military observation The collection of plaster casts was not so point. The Austro-Hungarians shelled it The destruction of the gallery of plaster lucky, as we see in this detailed record of Tel. 0423.544323 The brutality of World War I meant no constantly between November 1917 and Tel. 0423.83462 casts of the works of Canova is most events. locations whatsoever were safe from the Piave offensive, damaging it in various harm, including places of worship, parts.

CRESPANO POSSAGNO PEDEROBBA CORNUDA

BASSANO TREVISO FELTRE TREVISO

42 FORCELLA MOSTACIN (TV)(44 SANTA BONA ABBEY TV)

From these locations, the Italians could This Benedictine abbey was founded monitor and study the positions of the Area of interest during the early years of the twelfth Area of interest Austro-Hungarians along the Piave river 1918 century to house the relics of St Bonne 1918 between the Fener bridge and Nervesa (Santa Bona). The abbey complex, with its della Battaglia. The French artillery was Free entry church, cloister, housing and large garden, (abbey interior not also able to shell Monte Tomba (Mount open to the public) Municipality: is surrounded by a wall. Tomba), Quartier del Piave and Montello. The site was shelled by the Italians and A walk through the Forcella Mostacin Maser Municipality: allies during the Great War, as was the Vidor (Mostacin pass) is enough for us to entire Quartiere del Piave area. Since appreciate, even today, the strategic they stood so close to one of the historic importance of this route, which was the bridges over the Piave, the abbey and the The highest points of the hills of the area only one available for transiting guns and Vidor settlement as a whole came in for of Asolo provided ideal observation posts. ammunition. particularly severe punishment.

MASER MONFUMO VIDOR

ASOLO CORNUDA VALDOBBIADENE PIEVE DI SOLIGO

76 77 45 THE KING’S OBSERVATION POINT (TV)(47 SAN SALVATORE CASTLE TV) One of the main observation points Piave river at Colfosco. at Montello that must be considered Area of interest Given its strategic position, the castle Area of interest was the king’s observation point, so (which was also shelled from the Italian named because Vittorio Emanuele III, 1918 1918 front) was an observation point for the unobserved, would follow developments (booking required for visits) Free entry Austro-Hungarians who, in part, built through the long slits or embrasures of fortifi cations here. this installation (as indicated by a plaque Municipality: Municipality: Pieces of ordnance were placed in the placed on the wall). Below the country Ciano del Montello Susegana caves excavated on the eastern side of house standing on the site today, we fi nd the complex. While partly restored, the a narrow cement underground passage castle still bears evident scars dating back (perfectly conserved) which leads to what The role of the citadel of San Salvatore to the war. was considered the ideal observation was that of monitoring crossings of the Guided visits are available (book ahead). point covering the entire fi eld of action. Tel. 0438.738241 Opening and closing times:

PRESA XV 9:30-11:00.

SUSEGANA CROCETTA NERVESA DEL MONTELLO DELLA BATTAGLIA

PONTE DELLA PRIULA CONEGLIANO

46 SANT’EUSTACHIO ABBEY (TV)(48 ROAD OF THE HUNDRED DAYS TV) the events emotionally, wish to arrive “Strada dei 100 giorni” (road of the hundred at a better understanding of the tragic days) because the Austrian sappers laid it Area of interest Area of interest developments of the Great War. Indeed, between 1 February and 1 June 1918, in the scars of the war evident at a number 1918 time for use as a route for troops and large 1918 of sites provide stimuli to move in this Free entry gunnery during the “battaglia del solstizio” Free entry direction, as is so dramatically the case (battle of the solstice). Not only was it when we view the strikingly beautiful, bare Municipality: enormously important, strategically speaking Municipality: walls of the Abbazia di Sant’Eustachio Nervesa della Battaglia (providing a rapid, safe link between the Cison di Valmarino (Abbey of St Eustace) emerging from the Grappa and Piave fronts); it was also, from green vegetation. the engineering angle, an extremely ambitious Location: The strategic importance of its location project. The manner in which the tunnels have Passo di San Boldo sealed the abbey’s fate: it was to be been arranged, which is such a characteristic Silence and imagination may come to shelled and razed by both German and Tel. 0422.773360 feature of this road, is fascinating since they the aid of visitors who, while perceiving Italian gunnery. Biblioteca Comunale The road leading from the Treviso piedmont seem to have been piled up one upon the (municipal library) area to the val Belluna valley was baptised other as they climb the precipitous slope. OSSARIO

GIAVERA CISON DI VALMARINO REVINE LAGO DEL MONTELLO NERVESA DELLA BATTAGLIA FOLLINA VITTORIO TOVENA VENETO

78 79 Interprovincial coordination group 49 VALSUGANA AREA FORTRESSES AND BRENTA CANAL (VI) Project “I luoghi e le memorie della Grande Guerra nel Veneto” (locations and memories of the Great War in the Veneto Region) Great War, Tagliata di Primolano and Forte Veneto Region Tombion. The Covolo is very old, dating back Marino Zorzato – Councillor in charge of cultural services to the early eleventh century. It defended, Area of interest Marino Finozzi – Councillor in charge of tourism policies also as a natural barrier, the road between 1915 - 1918 Bassano and Trento. It was used last during Angelo Tabaro – Regional secretary for culture World War I. At Forte Tombion − as we visit Free entry Fausta Bressani –Regional director of cultural heritage directorate the corridors and rooms of the stronghold, Paolo Rosso – Regional director of tourism directorate Municipality: Giulio Bodon – Head of organisational position for cataloguing, monitoring and enhancement of and walk along the trenches placed along Cismon del Grappa the steep slope − we gain an idea of what cultural heritage life was like at the frontier, and also of the Province of Belluno This multi-site museum is known as heroic exploits of World War I. Work was Daniela Templari – Councillor in charge of cultural services “Museo del covolo di Buttistone e altri then completed on the Tagliata di Primolano, Alberto Vettoretto – Councillor in charge of tourism services sistemi difensivi della valle” (museum of a complex work of remarkable interest made Gabriella Faoro – Director of the economic and cultural development sector the Buttistone stronghold and other valley up of two main structures: Tagliata Fontanella Alessandra Cinti – Head of cultural services defence systems) consists in the museum and Tagliata della Scala, one blocking Cristina Busatta – Curator, museum of the seventh regiment of Alpine troops as such, Covolo di Buttistone, certain advances toward the Brenta and the other fortifi cations dating back to before the blocking advances in the opposite direction. Province of Treviso - responsible for realization Marzio Favero - Councillors in charge of cultural heritage (Coordinator) Floriano Zambon – Councillor in charge of tourism services PRIMOLANO Uberto Di Remigio – Director of the territorial promotion sector Francesca Susanna – Head of cultural heritage operational unit TRENTO BASSANO Elena Bisiol – Head of tourism promotion operational unit Gloria Toffolo – Head of cultural heritage management Province of Venice Raffaele Speranzon – Councillor in charge of cultural activities Giorgia Andreuzza – Councillor in charge of tourism services 50 COL CAMPEGGIA (VI) Gloria Vidali – Director of the cultural sector Roberto Favarato – Director of the tourism sector Col Campeggia hosted the tactical HQ Province of Vicenza of the IX Corpo d’Armata (IX Corps), at Area of interest Dino Secco - Councillor in charge of tourism services an altitude of 1,100 metres on the last Martino Bonotto – Councillor in charge of cultural heritage south-westerly offshoots of the massif. 1918 Maria Pia Ferretti – Director of the cultural sector This location thus became a major Free entry Sandra Brentan – Director of the tourism sector logistical site. Work on improvement and General Commission for Honouring the Fallen recovery of the site began in 1922. A Municipality: Romano d’Ezzelino General Vittorio Barbato number of hutments and trenches, and Colonel Carmelo Cannistraro the “observation” gallery were renovated. MiBAC (Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities) - Cultural heritage and landscape Signposts have also been installed with Location: Camposolagna directorate of Veneto Region information on conditions of life and work Ugo Soragni –Regional director for the soldiers here. Historic, artistic and ethno-anthropological heritage offi ce for the Provinces of Venice, Belluno, Padua and Treviso Anna Maria Spiazzi – Head of offi ce Architectural and landscape heritage offi ce for the Provinces of Venice, Belluno, Padua and Treviso CAMPOSOLAGNA Sabina Ferrari – Head of offi ce

Initiative realized with the fi nancial support of the regional government authority, Regione del Veneto, as part of the “Programma CIMA GRAPPA BASSANO di valorizzazione del patrimonio culturale del Veneto” (programme for enhancement of value of the cultural heritage of the Veneto region), in accordance with the provisions of legge regionale (regional law) no. 1/2008, art. 102 Project: “I luoghi e le memorie della Grande Guerra nel Veneto” (locations and memories of the Great War in the Veneto Region) 80 81 INFORMATION www.ecomuseograndeguerra.it

PROVINCE OF BELLUNO Via Sant’Andrea 5 – 32100 Belluno tel 0437/959162 - [email protected] tel 0437/940084 - www.provincia.belluno.it www.infodolomiti.it IAT Offi ce (tourism and accommodation bureau) Piazza Duomo 2 – 32100 Belluno Tel 0437/940083 e.mail: [email protected] PROVINCE OF TREVISO Via Cal di Breda 116 – 31100 Treviso tel 0422/656000 www.provincia.treviso.it www.turismo.provincia.treviso.it IAT Offi ce (tourism and accommodation bureau) Via S.Andrea 3 – 31100 Treviso Tel 0422/547632 e.mail: [email protected] PROVINCE OF VENICE Cà Corner, San Marco 2662 – 30124 Venezia Tel. 041 2501511 www.provincia.venezia.it servizio cultura servizio turismo APT della Provincia di Venezia (provincial tourism offi ce of the Province of Venice) Castello 5050 – 30124 Venezia Tel 041/5298711 e.mail: [email protected] PROVINCE OF VICENZA Contrà Gazzolle 1 – 36100 Vicenza Tel 0444/908111 www.provincia.vicenza.it IAT Offi ce (tourism and accommodation bureau) Piazza Matteotti 12 – 36100 Vicenza Tel 0444/320854 e.mail: [email protected] www.vicenzae.org - [email protected] Layout Eurekip Cartography ediMAP ©all rights reserved Printed by Grafi che Tintoretto 09/10 09/2010