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Sir Ernest Satow in Siam, 1884-87: Focusing on His Visits to Japan from Siam in 1884 and 1886, and His Research Into Japan-Siam Relations

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Sir Ernest Satow in Siam, 1884-87: Focusing on His Visits to Japan from Siam in 1884 and 1886, and His Research Into Japan-Siam Relations View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Kyutacar : Kyushu Institute of Technology Academic Repository Sir Ernest Satow in Siam, 1884-87: Focusing on his Visits to Japan from Siam in 1884 and 1886, and his Research into Japan-Siam Relations 著者 Ruxton Ian journal or IAJS Journal publication title volume 3 page range 21-30 year 2017 URL http://hdl.handle.net/10228/00006805 Sir Ernest Satow in Siam, 1884-87: Focusing on his Visits to Japan fromSiam in 1884 and 1886, and his Research into Japan-Siam Relations IanRuxton " ...At Singapore I stayed nearly a week and Introduction foundthere the Baynes and the George Dares. Ernest Satow left Japan (i.e. Yokohama) at the The Baynes look very young, and were eagerly end of 1882, after spending most of 20 years apart anticipating their return to Japan. I never think from home leaves working there as a consular of that country without the liveliest feelingsof official: student interpreter, interpreter and then regret. One was so happy there in spite of the Japanese Secretary at the British legation.1 I have distance from England, and the travelling in written about his two stints in Japan (1862-69 and the interior was so delightful. Sometimes I 1870-83) in previous papers published in the IAJS think I was a great fool to leave it simply for Journal,Volumes 1 and 2. This paper focuseson his promotion, for though this place is tolerable, it interest in, and connections with, Japan during his is not the same thing, and as yet I have no posting to Siam (now Thailand), which he accepted friends to take the place of those I am cut off as a good and ultimately successfulcareer move: he from.And every mail hitherto has only brought was soon promoted fromthe British consular to the me letters fromYedo [Edo, Tokyo] offeringme diplomatic service, which in itself was a rare a welcome back there, which circumstances recognition of his considerable talent. Satow visited will not allow me to enjoy ..." Japan twice in the period, in 1884 and 1886. Whom did he meet, and what did he discuss with them? 2 Satow expressed further regret in a letter dated Also what did he discover about the historical March 21st to Aston: relations between the two countries? (N.B. Detailed "This is not such a bad place, though there is discussion of his visits to Nikko which was one of much that makes me regret Japan. The town Satow's favourite places in Japan will be reserved lies on the river in the midst of a wide delta foranother paper.) chiefly cultivated as paddy fields. The public buildings are fine and even picturesque, rather more so than in Japan owing to the great number Satow applies, andis appointed,to servein Siam of sharp spires in the Buddhist temples, but the At the end of 1883 while in England, Satow houses of the inhabitants are squalid and dirty. applied forthe post of Agent and Consul-General in That is partly due to the difficultyof being neat Bangkok, within the consular service.3 He was and tidy in a hot country.One chieflygoes about informed that his application was successful on in a sort of gondola, but there are fewroads, and January 13, 18844 and he left London for Bangkok I have taken my firstride today.We have tennis on January 25th.5 Travelling via Aden, Penang and in the [British] agency compound. The house is Singapore, he reached Bangkok on March 6th. not altogether bad, though quite destitute of We know about his initial reactions to Siam and ornament, and I have plentyof room. I like the his regret at leaving Japan fromletters to his friend work pretty well as a change from Japanese Frederick Victor Dickins and friend and consular newspapers and interpreting, but I am very colleague William George Aston. On March 20th he sorry not to be in at the Revision of the Treaties wrote to Dickins from Bangkok: rjouyaku kaisei �f.JaiE]. And I like the 21 IanRuxton Plunketts6 so much that it is a real grief to me and Raymond de B. M. Layard. They stayed at the not to be in Tokio7 during their reign ... "8 well-known Fujiya hotel, founded in 1878 and still open today. 12 On October 11 th the guests enjoyed fine weather: Satow's Visit to Japan in 1884 (October tst - "Magnificent day. Walked up to Ashi-no-yu November 22nd) (the whole party with the addition of a Major On September 15th Satow called on the King of Clarke from Colombo), & met Sir Geo[rge]. Siam, prior to leaving for Japan: Bowen13 near the top. Fine view of the coast "Went to take leave of the King, who E[ast]. of Odawara, & the summit of Oyama. mentioned his desire to renew relations with Uohn H.] Gubbins suffering fr[om]. acute pains Japan. I said he w[ou]ld. be able to obtain in the legs. Plunkett & I tried to support him in cheaper there many things w[hi]ch. he now walking, when he uttered a terrifying shriek. gets from Europe." On to Hakone, where we lunched. Splendid view of [Mount] Fuji, with the usual patch of On September 17th Satow left Bangkok with his snow on the south side. On the way back long-serving and faithful Japanese manservant Clarke & I ascended Futago yama; very hot Honma Saburo. Travelling by sea via Hong Kong, he climb. Took tea with Gubbins & came back arrived in Nagasaki at 8 p.m. on October pt where after dark, running a good way down the path." he found Frank W. Playfair in charge as acting The next day was rainy, but on October 13th it Consul, John Carey Hall having been summoned to "[b]egan to show signs of clearing up, so Tokio (as he spelt it). He went ashore next day to PDunkett]. & I started for Otome Toge buy some Hirado and Kameyama porcelain at the [mountain pass], getting there in 3¥4 h[ou]rs. shop of Sato Yukichi in Funadaiku Machi. including a stoppage at Sengokuhara. Much Travelling via Shimonoseki Satow reached Kobe mist on further side, no view whatever. on the evening of October 3rct. The next day he Lunched in hut at the top. Returning, mist had "[w]ent ashore to the [Consul James] partly cleared; pretty view of Sengokuhara Troups. After lunch with [Vice-Consul Henry basin, and of the lake, Ojigoku &c. Sir Geo. A.C.] Bonar to see Noguchi's widow, & Bowen to dinner. Very fond of anecdote-telling children.9 Promised to give her a monthly and talking French with a bad English accent; pension of $5, to be paid thro' Bonar.10 Left at 6 fine old Irish gentleman of 63, good classical p.m." scholar, wrote Murray's Guide to Greece." On October 6th Satow arrived at Yokohama at 1 Satow returned to Tokio the next day, and in the a.m. He visited Sir Nicholas Hannen, a Judge in Her afternoon of October 15th "paid calls on Corps Britannic Majesty's Court for Japan since 1 February Diplomatique & Japanese Princes & Ministers." 1883 and a friend since 1871. He went up to Tokio On the 16th Satow went "[w]ith Sir Geo[rge]. by the 11 o'clock train and immediately visited his Bowen to Museum." This was presumably the children, Eitaro and Hisayoshi. This was recorded Tokyo National Museum which opened in 1872 and in romanised Japanese in his diary, to prevent its in 1882 moved to Ueno Park, its current location. In easy comprehension by prying eyes: the evening they had "Dinner at Inouye' s to Sir Hirugo kodomo wo mi ni ittara... Futari Geo. Bowen: sat between Matsugata and Mori tomo soken de otonashikute medzurashii. Arinori.14 Party more sociable than ever before. Eitaro [~:i:N~] wa issakunen yori kakubetsu Plunkett has clearly improved our relations [from sei ga nobinai, chieye ga tsuita. Hisakichi [J\ the way they had been with Parkes]." Ef] iro shiroku waga ototo Theodore ni yoku From October 17th to 23rct Satow stayed with the nitari.11 Hannens in Yokohama where he met Basil Hall From October 10th to 14th Satow was at Chamberlain and others. He went with the Hannens Miyanoshita, a hot spring resort in Hakone to the theatre at Asakusa on the 26th, and dined with (Kanagawa prefecture) popular with foreigners, Chamberlain again on November 2nct to meet with his good friend the Minister Francis Plunkett Lieutenant Albert George Sydney Hawes, his co- 22 The IAJSJournal 2017 Vol.3 author of the Handbookfor Travellers in Centraland 13, Part 2, 1885) as 'Notes on the Intercourse Northern Japan (Kelly & Co., Yokohama, 1881). between Japan and Siam in the Seventeenth Satow also noted: "Have nearly concluded purchase Century' (see below). of a house [forhis family]in Fujimi-cho, Shi chome."15 On November 3n1 there was a "Ball at Rokumei Satow's Visit to Japan in 1886 (June 23n1 - kwan16 for the Mikado's birthday." Then on September 2ru1) November 6th Satow attended a dinner given in his honour: Satow's second visit to Japan, granted forrest and "Dinner given to me at the Ko-yo-kwan by recuperation from the debilitating heat and old Date [Munenari of Uwajima], Yoshida unsanitary conditions of Siam (to escape fromwhich Kiyonari, Shiwoda Saburo. he later requested a different posting) was slightly Miyamoto, Nakai Kozo, Watanabe Koki, longer than the first: it was over two months from Ishibashi & a host of other persons who had his arrival in his usual firstpor t of call (Nagasaki) to belonged to the Uapanese] Foreign Office leaving fromthe same port, while the first visit had during the time I have been inJapan.
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