COASTAL ITINERARIES of the western Algarve CONTENTS CREDITS: COORDINATION: Jorge M. S. INTRODUCTION 3 Gonçalves TEXT: Jorge M. S. Gonçalves, THE COASTLINE OF THE WESTERN ALGARVE 5 Daniel Machado (Observation of cetaceans and large pelagic MAP 8 animals, surf and bodyboard) e João T. Tavares (Birds) MARINE FAUNA OBSERVATION 10 PHOTOGRAPHY: Nuno Alves, João T. Tavares (Birds), André BIRDS 11 Dias (Cetaceans) , Stephan Kober MARINE MAMMALS AND (Blue shark), João Encarnação LARGE PELAGIC FISHES 13 (Scuba diving) GRAPHIC DESIGN AND SCUBA DIVING 19 ILLUSTRATION: GOBIUS Communication and Science SURF AND BODYBOARDING 22 ADB COORDINATION: José Moura Bastos OTHER NAUTICAL ACTIVITIES 26 TRANSLATION: Fátima Noronha READDING SUGGESTIONS 27 CONTACTOS: _CCMAR - Centro de Ciências do ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 27 Mar do Algarve: Universidade do Algarve, Campus de Gambelas, FCT Ed7, 8005-139 Faro; Telf. 289 800 051; http://www.ccmar.ualg.pt _ADB - Agência Desenvolvimento do Barlavento, Rua Impasse à Rua Poeta António Aleixo, Bloco B, R/c, 8500-525 Portimão, Portugal; Telf. 282 482 889 http://ad-barlavento.pt HOW TO QUOTE THIS PUBLICATION: Gonçalves, J.M.S.; Machado, D.; Tavares, J.T. 2015. Coastal Itineraries of the Western Algarve. Centre of Marine Sciences (CCMAR), Algarve University; Agência Desenvolvimento do Barlavento (ADB). GOBIUS Comunication and Science, 27p. P. 3 waters. The west coast is really unique. Firstly, it is a confluence zone for different water masses from the Mediterranean, the North and the Tropical Atlantic. And secondly, it is also an INTRODUCTION up-welling area, where nutrients from deeper waters ascend to the surface near the coastline. The sea itineraries of the Western Algarve offer Moreover, it holds two of the most important first-hand information to this region’s visitor submarine canyons of the Portuguese coast: or resident, aiming to increase curiosity and the Portimão and the São Vicente canyons. knowledge on the natural and human heritage This privileged location is used as a gateway of the sea of the Algarve. to seabirds and marine mammals like whales. It includes tips, curiosities and useful technical Together with the resident dolphin population, information concerning one of the most they delight whoever has the opportunity to interesting parts of the Portuguese coast, not watch them. just because of its coastal outline and geological Nevertheless, there is more than wildlife in these diversity, but also because of its marine seas. There is also a contribution from European biodiversity. and Mediterranean naval history, with its While the coastline and oceanographic dynamics ancient shipwrecks and one unique underwater provide some of the best surfing spots in the museum. The latter includes four former world, the luxurious underwater life (sponges, battleships of the Portuguese Navy, now resting GENTES D’MAR sea anemones, gorgonians, sea slugs and corals) quietly on the bottom. They are the amusement is just at the reach of a hand in the crystal blue of scuba divers from all over the world. This volume is complemented by the Underwater Routes of the Western Algarve and the Fishing Villages of the Western Algarve. Together they form the "Gentes de Mar" Project, authored by Agência de Desenvolvimento do Barlavento (ADB), in partnership with the Marine Sciences Centre (CCMAR) of the University of Algarve. There are many reasons for a long and rewarding visit to the western coast of the Algarve but we hope to add a few more with these itineraries. P. 4 GENTES D’MAR with typical vegetation and a wet zone, Lagoa2 dos Salgados, a peculiar coastal ecosystem, very rich in terms of biodiversity. COASTLINE OF THE At Senhora da Rocha, heading towards the fishing villages of Benagil and Carvoeiro and WESTERN ALGARVE passing through the famous and worldwide known Praia da Marinha, we can find a high The coastline of the Western Algarve begins on and graceful coastline formed by carbonated the west coast, at the mouth of the Seixe stream cliffs (dated from the Miocene Period, about 20 (Odeceixe) and stretches until the mouth of the million years ago). Softened by time, this rocks P. 5 Quarteira stream (at Vilamoura). Within the were carved and shaped into small islands (sea Algarve context, it is mainly a rocky coastline, stacks) forming a unique landscape of arches, although it holds several geomorphological sink holes, caves and coves, in constant change. forms, such as the dunes at Praia dos Salgados, Worn out by erosion, these cliffs are one of the the carbonated cliffs at Praia1 da Marinha or the Algarve’s brand images. Additionally to its high cliffs of Sagres. high landscape value, the cliffs are colonized Taking a tour from east to west, and starting by a Portuguese endemic plant community on the coast of Albufeira, we can spot the which includes juniper and kermes oak woods, conspicuous red cliffs of poorly consolidated dwarf palm trees, mastic trees and Aleppo sandstone and siltstone, forming a tracery of pines, an ancient community dating back to the ravines and gullies. When arriving to Olhos Quaternary Period. The diversity of geological d'Água, an old fishing village where freshwater forms, the inaccessibility of some places and its springs percolate into the sea, we find the first location in the land–sea interface make these low limestone formations, alternating with cliffs of the Western Algarve a selected nesting beaches and sandstone cliffs. Here, the marine place for birds, such as the common kestrel, the rocky bottoms reach the beaches, creating peregrine falcon, the rock dove, the European another peculiar environment of our coast, shag and different species of seagulls. exposed by low tide: the tidal pools (beaches of In Ferragudo and Portimão the landscape breaks Olhos d'Água, Arrifes, and Manuel Lourenço). as the fresh and salt water meet at the estuary of This rocky line is interrupted at the bay of the largest river of the Algarve, the Arade. Here, GENTES D’MAR Armação de Pera where the coastline profile in the large bay of Lagos, we can also find Ria3 diminishes and includes long dune formations de Alvor, one of the greatest natural values of the Portuguese south coast. From the mouth of the As we turn around Cabo4 de São Vicente, the Bensafrim River in Lagos and its extraordinary farthest point of southwest Europe, and we head beaches, the outline of the coast requires a north, we soon feel the peculiar sea and winds of mandatory stop. the Algarve west coast. We leave behind the hard Heading to Sagres and passing Ponta da Piedade and clear limestones of São Vicente promontory and its famous sea caves, we arrive at Praia da and we enter in a territory of sand and schist. The Luz where the imposing Rocha Negra stands out cliffs are impressive, reaching 156 meters above at Ponta das Ferrarias. This is a black eruptive sea level at Torre de Aspa (Vila do Bispo). They volcanic massif, originated in the mountains of are formed of schist rock and dark greywackes, Monchique. This mountain, the highest one of dating back to the Palaeozoic Period. São Vicente the Algarve (highest point: Fóia, 902 m), can be promontories are the symbol of the Natural Park seen from the sea across the western coastline, of Southwest Alentejo and the Vicentina Coast, making it a conspicuous orientation point for the longest area of protected Portuguese coast. local navigation. As a result of the rise of sea level, the Vincentina Now we are in the Vicentina Coast, with its Coast is sprinkled by small sea stacks, locally ravines and small sandy beaches with rolled called palheirão or simply pedra (stone). They pebbles. The Vincentina Coast usually presents create particular marine environments, not only an increasingly steeper profile as we approach to marine organisms, but also to seabirds. These Sagres. The Cretaceous marl formations are ecosystems are a full protected area (fishing and followed by Jurassic limestones with sharp human presence are forbidden). Some examples vertical profile, however quite resistant to of these stacks are Pedra do Gigante and Pedra erosion and extending across the seafloor until das Gaivotas, in Sagres, Pedra da Agulha and a depth of 10 meters. Pedra da Carraça, in Arrifana, near Aljezur. P. 6 At Sagres, the high cliffs and promontories seem Near the fishing village of Carrapateira we find like the bow of a majestic ship heading into an exception: limestone cliffs with fossil deposits the Atlantic Ocean. Here, at the Promotorium from more distant times. The geodiversity of this Sacrum, there is a marked oceanic influence and place is remarkable. The highlights are the geo- the salty and strong north winds rule. Highly monuments of some beaches such as Telheiro, exposed to marine erosion, the cliffs of Sagres Ponta Ruiva and Murração. Another feature is and the islets of Martinhal were carved into a the presence of streams (Bordeira, Aljezur and remarkable number of sea caves, only accessible Seixe) contributing to shape the landscape. They to divers. These caves have their own biodiversity, combine their small estuaries with long beaches, granting them a priority status of protection greatly increasing the availability of habitats under the European Habitat Directive. The and life forms. At the end of this coast, near the coast of Sagres holds the only Marine Protected fishing village of Arrifana, we can find another Area of the Southern Algarve. This results from Marine Protected Area of the Algarve, known the remarkable marine biodiversity (sponges, for its vast kelp forests (brown algae). sea anemones, gorgonians, corals, crustaceans, molluscs and fish). At the top of the cliffs, the rupicolous vegetation, well adapted to the extreme power of salty winds, stands out and dominates. Its unique biogeographical 1Beach Translator's Note GENTES D’MAR characteristics and its native plants have placed 2Lagoon (T/N) Sagres Peninsula in the European Network of 3Coastal lagoon (T/N) Biogenetic Reserves.