Credits Texts: Head Office: Photography: Coordination: Property ofthe: Distribution: SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO Região de Turismo do ConceiçãoBranco(tours)andJoãoPrudêncio (openingsections); Av.5deOutubro,18-20,8000-076FARO,Algarve,; Free; VascoCélio; ConceiçãoBranco; Algarve TourismBoard; Legal Deposit: Printing: Graphic DesignandLayout: 255397/07 DPI -Design,ProduçãoGráficaeImagem; E-mail: [email protected]; Blocod-DesigneComunicaçãoLda.; Translation: Web: Telephone: www.visitalgarve.pt; PrintRun: Inpokulis,Lda; 289800400; 5,000 copies; Fax: 289800489 dunes, mountains and rugged plateaux, with the depths of the the of depths away. the far with never sea plateaux, and rugged and cliffs ochre, mountains and blue dunes, in decorated walls terraces discos, and whitewashed and entertainment of yet kinds religious is popular that life tolerant, of way a art, as well minimalist as and found, be both can modern the the where and Algarve traditional an discovered have will you end, the By has. traditional the as way architecture same the still in flavour, herbs, with Moorish a seasoned retains and sea the from cuisine, the of inspiration drawing sophistication simple to The open are diversity. and and change experiences, share to ready story-tellers, always as are they prowess that their and the of hospitality their people are the Algarve about mentioned always are that storks. Things the of of gliding flight smooth the or majestic the eagles follow can you of where areas huge reserves, with nature countryside, unexplored is there Inland, of contemplation sunsets. quiet for or romantic activity, places sporting holidays, high-energy family for lively during relax to places are These warm in beaches the on waves. break in sometimes surge and spray sometimes of which sheets waters, with Atlantic and people sands seduce white their Algarve the in beaches of discovery. hundreds of The challenge a on of kinds adventure, and different into activity you lure will which tours be will These together. come and all touches luxurious those also cosmopolitan but heritage, cultural grandeur the Algarve’s the of hospitality, excellent in nature, of adventure, magic to the passport which a emotions, plan powerful them of help full to stay a information with Algarve) visitors the of Tours provide to and aims (Routes Algarve do immemorial. Caminhos time & since Rotas mingled have Atlantic, the cultures of where waters the region a entering the before place Europe, mainland of harbouring last part westerly most the is Algarve The

SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO  SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO  Algarve’s diversity. west, atourthatwill allowustodiscoversomethingofthe A encountered. Serra andtheTunaTour,widerange ofsensationstobe the onechosentoguideusonTours oftheGuadiana, start intheareaborderingSpain.Theochre colour(yellow)is The Sotavento(EasternAlgarve)isthetitle forthetourswhich parts oftheAlgarve. having alookatroutesnearthecoastandinhillsother A the RiaFormosaandTourofVillages. south andthenorth,therewillbeToursof“Caldeirão”, magenta colour. In and thehills,pagesforthesetoursareidentifiedbytheir The CentralAlgarveincludestourswhichwindbetweenthesea the Eastofregionin of theWestCoast(CostaVicentina),andwewillgoonatripto of theAlgarve,weinviteyouonToursSagres,Fóia,and and thepagesdescribingthemwillbeblue.Onwesternside tours whichwecoverinthemostwesterlypartofAlgarve, Barlavento (westernAlgarve)isthenamewehavegiven CONTENTS Tour beyondtheCentralAlgarve Tour beyondtheSotavento Tours around the Central Algarve A TourbeyondtheBarlavento willtakeustoplaces thatarefurther makessuggestionsabout , between the . P. 108 P. 58 P. 06

SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO  

SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO CONTENTS OFTOURSTHEBARLAVENTO Sotavento. We shallbecharmedbytheAlgarveof smelling oftheseaonedgeOlhão. gardens ofLoulé,thethousandrestaurants thousand churchesofTavira,the Moorish wallsandthenbecamewhite.The We shallvisitoldcitieswhichoncehaddark migrating birds. flowers, yellow,redandpurpletowelcomethe perch, therearefieldsdottedwithunusual On thissideofthecliffs,wherestorks’nests Europe. with theBlackForest,andotherhillypartsof similarity withSintra,andMonserrate.Butalso landscapes. Theysaythatthereisgreater around theleastMediterraneanofAlgarve’s On theroadsin Sagres andSãoVicente. shall divebackintohistoryinthedarkwatersof places wherebravefishermenlive,andherewe This areaisredolentofthediscoveries,with SA GRE DO BISPO DO VILA S serra

wewillbetravelling AL ODECEIX JEZUR LA GO E S MONCHIQU PORTIM ÃO E P. 32 20 08 44 Bárbara deNexe»BoliqueimePaderneSilves Velha »CabanasdeTaviraMoncarapachoSanta Azinhal »CastroMarimVilaRealdeSantoAntónioCacela » PereiroAlcoutimGuerreirosdoRioAlmadadeOuro Barranco doVelho»MontesNovosCachopoMartinlongo Silves »S.BartolomeudeMessinesAlteSalirQuerença +/- A TOURBEYONDTHEBARLAVENTO » CarrapateiraViladoBispoLagos Lagos »RogilOdeceixeAlfambrasMonteRuivoBordeira +/- COSTA VICENTINATOUR(WESTCOAST) »Portimão Lagoa »EstombarSítiodasFontesCarvoeiroAlgarSeco »CaldasdePortoLagosSilves Portimão »PontadeJoãoArensAlvorAlcalarFóia +/- FOIA TOUR Praia »Lagos Barão deSãoJoão»BarragemdaBravuraOdeáxereMeia » CabodeS.Vicente»ViladoBispoPedralvaBudens Lagos »PontadaPiedadeViladoBispoFortalezadeSagres +/- SAGRES TOUR 286 km 172 km 112 km 122 km LO UL É F ARO TA VIRA AL CO UTIM ANT SAN DE ÓNI TO O

Welcome! to want repeat. always you that sort holiday, the your for areperfect Barlavento Tours the around The alive. much very both side, by side aspects traditional and cosmopolitan across come We shall syntheses. and many contrasts of up made Algarve, the of culture into venture the will we Indoors cuisine. traditional of flavours delicious the by tempted We be shall Islamic. is so example, for Silves, in which history, of legacy the by surprised We be shall bays. languorous along out spread or sea, the of edge the touching cliffs, to the clinging the of panoramas wide the by surrounded hills, the in nestling Monchique, like places We visit shall ocean. the of vastness the on glowing light its sunsets, the where places the through We wander shall flowers. forest of perfumes the and salt with laden wind the of singing the wings, their flapping seagulls the and sea the of noise is the sound only the beaches, the of dunes huge the or sand the in shells tiny the in while nature, of indomitableness to the asymphony playing if as Sagres, in cliffs rugged the against beating sea The “Barlavento”. or Algarve Western the T here are some magical sights to behold in parts of of parts in to behold sights magical aresome here serra , others , others

SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO  SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO  São Vicente Lighthouse Humanity. rocks andwater, we findsomethingofsignificance for human landscapes. And so, even there amongstthe theprimeval,naturaland how to conserve that knew theone oftheAlgarve: past inthisthewisestpart Man’s present comestogether withthegrandiose São Vicente. waters of Sagres inthedark dive and backinto history places where brave live, fishermen andhere we shall century. This area isredolent ofdiscoveries, there are through space and time. The Americas, the 14th Africa, our eyes for amoment,few secondsoftravelling Later weby thefrothing willbethrilled ocean,close fishing birds dive asthey into theclearwaters. On thecliff-tops, we willbeexcited by theflight ofthe seagull, over soaring therocks. Closer to thecliffs, we will feel thedizzinessof ceased to bethere, inamongstthesilence. there atthetimeofPrince Henry. They have never We were they canhearthem,aswe already know break thesilenceinbarmidstofhouses. stops,from theroutine andstraightafter, ofobligatory the west. Even thepeople:for awhilewe break free feels unspoiledamongstthegentleundulationsin from Everything centresnews urban oftheAlgarve. whereBensafrim, noteven theherons trouble uswith barrocal to thewest. Butwe willalsohave alookatthe Navigator, from thepicturesquehousesofLagos W e shalltracetheroute the ofPrince Henry inland: we shall gaze into the watery calmof inland: we shallgaze into thewatery

SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO  SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 10

SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 11 +/- 1 122km SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 2 hid, and galleons full of gold and precious stones from the Americas or spices from the India put into put India the from spices or Americas the from stones precious and gold of full galleons and hid, Drake likeSir Francis privateers that here was it Bojador; Cape round to off,first the set Eanes Gil that of sands fine the by bay, wide encircled its from was It world. the over all from people on, From early monuments. its of grandeur the alongside shops, well-known and galleries art with restaurants, typical and shops, craft of is amix there where city, old the of lanes the in alittle ourselves losing first without poets, Arab the by to Lagos given name the was and “mosque” means which leave Zawaya, cannot we so And continent. old the leave of its takes here which sun, the and sea the of rocks, the of mouth gaping the from coming dialogue silent ancient, to the listen breeze, salty the by pricked be skin their let body”, their outside existence “feel to want who people those to attract tour.this on point focal the at Sagres, sea the force of brute the see is to and it go if even Lagos, leave to is difficult It Sagres Lagos , which continues continues , which was a gateway to the Mediterranean and continues to be a meeting-place for for ameeting-place to be continues and Mediterranean to agateway the was Lagos The final re-conquest was achieved in achieved was re-conquest final The city. the in interest of 50 monuments than more in arevisible which cultures, their of traces left Arabs, later the and Visigoths the then Romans, the First river. Bensafrim the of banks the on located previously settlements small together joining by Brigo, by B.C. 2000 in founded was language, Celtic the in “fortress” means which Lacobriga, season. spawning the fishin the following there arrived also and Mediterranean the in fished who fishermen the of battles the were modest More port. Meia Praia Meia

View from the Promontory of Sagres Always an important military objective, objective, military important an Always 1241 D. Peres of Correia. Paio sword the by nowadays wind their way through the maze of of maze the through way their wind nowadays which sections into two divided and monument national as a classified now wall, adefensive had somewhat the suffering witnessed by those ancient ancient those by witnessed suffering the somewhat to way lessen appropriate an gallery, into art an transformed nowadays Market, Slave is the Nearby church. 1498, main 1755 the since and city’s the earthquake, in begun later built, was Infante do Praça the in Church Maria Santa the where (zawaya) mosque the centre, town around the defended wall The Gate). (Town Vila da Porta Town the to the through Hall access gives and flavour amediaeval retains Barroca da Rua The stonework. fine and arches impressive agate with Gonçalo, S. Porta the by is interrupted the bordering wall of stretch the beautiful, Impressively southwest. extreme the in Torreão the like Ribeira da turrets by occasionally broken city, old the in streets marginal (waterfront) with its pleasant gardens, gardens, pleasant its with (waterfront) Lagos

Lagos

the Forte da Bandeira, right next to harbour entrance. entrance. to harbour next right Bandeira, da Forte the head towards we and mansions, many fine Lagos’ of one found be can Eanes, Gil Town Praça the in Hall to the Next Cutileiro. João sculptor the of creation the King, Boy the of Sebastião, D. statue the find we sea, the of waters clear the beside again Once shore. the towards down rolling gently areas, built-up the over view a wonderful commands city, the hillsof the of one on church, Carmo The Rasquinho. Joaquim José Master the by paintings and carving, gilt and tiles with decorated is lavishly which of interior the style, Baroque the in built SantoAntónio, of Church is the Lagos of heritage the of jewels brightest the of one proudly, but there stands Sebastião S. of Church The Hospital. Lagos the of part integral an Quay), nowadays Velho (Old and Cais the became later which Portugal, of Governor the of Palace the of foundations the in is hidden this Mozaine, the regards As Museum. Municipal Lagos the in city the about is to know there to everything discover thetemptation resist to difficult very be will It stones. Alcácer or palace of the caliph Banu Banu caliph the of palace or

Church of Santo António 1 SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 3 SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 14 the magnificence of the location continue unaltered. continue location the of magnificence the and scenery away. the But crumbed gradually fort the used, longer is no which tuna catching for device a Almadrava, the watch over to keep Built Almádena. of fort the of ruins arethe there hill, a nearby On amphorae. clay in transported was it where to Rome Imperial of banquets the at delicacy a was which sauce ashellfish prepared, was “” where station salting aRoman discovered dig ariver, of archaeological an mouth the once to road gravel the take you ahead, distance A short to get we strip, coastal the and fig-trees and almond- of fields the of rusticity the between balanced is finely which through goes which road old the on city bay. the the of Leaving beaches the to contrast stark in begin cliffs the is where which Piety) (Point of Piedade isda Ponta stop Another Marina. the approaching slowly boats sailing the with along esplanade, the from seen be can bay the of curve graceful the platform, upper the On handicrafts. selling shops aresmall there where floor, ground the on stone carved of a doorway through in go you drawbridge, the crossing After : Chapel of Guadalupe da Praia , a cosmopolitan place which combines holiday-makers and fishermen. and holiday-makers combines which place , acosmopolitan Boca do Rio do Boca . On the small beach, where there was was there where beach, small the . On Montinhos da Luz da Montinhos where the road road the where crossroads at the EN 125, the on back to get advisable is it At point, this beach. to the reach tide incoming the use they as arriving boats fishing small watch the can you where village, afishing as roots to its close still is which place to we so And continue Salema , a village , avillage , a

Almádena Fort leads to the village of of village to the leads Continuing in a westerly direction, direction, awesterly in Continuing waves. the of mercy the at caravels, and ships their in off set they before said were prayers is where This Guadelupe. of chapel small the find we road, the in bend afurther After journeys. long their during going them keep The The … sea the beyond to aworld discover dared who aman dreams of audacious to the gave rise which place to the countryside stunning through continue we then And hang-gliding. for place apopular therefore and steep not are too which cliffs high by encircled sand, golden fine, of semi-circles small Cordoama, and areCastelejo town the to beaches nearest The flourishing. plants of species rare are some there where fields green the around dotted menhirs the to discover foot, on covered be to is astretch From there there, Salema. Monte called aplace in to Sagres road away, old the on distance ashort starts walk The Sagres. in Tourist Office the or Office Parish the from free obtained be can and location exact its shows which Office Parish local the by published guide isexcellent an There treasure. archaeological areatrue BC to 4000 3000 from dating menhirs the area, surrounding the In exhibitions. permanent its with attraction Centre is an Cultural new The art. sacred of items with museum is asmall there annex, an In dolphins. and flowers of images with arepainted which tiles in anave clad and façade, 18th century a beautiful has it and point, meeting and centre, town stop bus the is also to garden, asmall next Church, Main The sky. the against out stands chimney-pot toadecorated From time, use. time and age by polished slabs, granite of made steps high doorways, the By colours. bright in trimmed houses whitewashed streets, windy of is aplace town The symbol of the Portuguese Portuguese the of symbol The Portugal. of whole the in monuments best-known the of Fortress of Sagres of Fortress Figueira is one is one , where once the seafarers stocked up on toasted figs, a food that would thatwould food a figs, toasted on up stocked seafarers the once , where Vila do Bispo do Vila appears on a small rise, visible from the EN 125. the from The visible rise, asmall on appears

The Promontory of Sagres

SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 15 SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 16 Untouched until the 21st century, the magic of the Promontorium Sacrum has remained, the most most the remained, has Sacrum 21st the until Promontorium the of Untouched magic the century, preserved. is also chapel historical the and there, room Today, exhibition an and lost. is amuseum largely there were lines former its I, Maria Dona by Rebuilt destroyed. almost was it earthquake, undersea subsequent and earthquake 1755 the of piracy, of target the As bastion. astrong and lines elegant with walls has fortress The obstacles. insuperable apparently overcome to species human the of ability the of evidence unequivocal with world the left era golden This moon. the on man of arrival the later with years 500 emulated be only would it that humanity for importance such afeat of was It art”. and skill “with World Old the of limits the through broke who trained, were Vasco Gama da Dias, Bartolomeu Columbus, Christopher navigators the is where This seas. high the on navigating for techniques developed and sea-charts, and calculations astronomical “nau”, the like vessels other improved perfected caravel, inventedthe they School, Sagres At the needed...”. is “Navigation lands. to distant sailing dream of the for came Jews and Germans Italians, Spaniards, Portuguese, construction. naval and navigation geography, mathematics, astronomy, cosmography, of fields the in experts knowledge, of men of apleiad together brought Academy Nautical His to time. that up history in known been had that plan adventurous and ambitious most the Navigator. conceived He the Henry to Prince owing ages, middle the of end the since world the throughout known been has enigmatic the discoveries, the body of this Franciscan monk rests there. Tradition has it that the Mozarabs, Muslims who had had who Muslims Mozarabs, the that it has Tradition there. rests monk Franciscan this of body the is road by away 6km and sight, In Romans. the by named reverently Europe, in point southwesterly São São Vicente Lighthouse “rosa-dos-ventos” Cabo de S. Vicente S. de Cabo (wind rose) carved in the paving stones of the fortress, fortress, the of stones paving the in rose) (wind carved , (Cape St Vincent), thus called because because called St thus Vincent), , (Cape for this reason that they appear on the capital’s coat of arms. of coat capital’s the on appear they that reason this for is it and Henriques, Afonso King by to moved to be ordered was body whose saint, the followed birds The strangers. of approach the against into sentinels transformed crows of speaks legend The occupation. Saracen the during it to preserve Padua from here body the brought to Christianity, converted and return to return and coast to the is nearest that road the take we feeling, Portuguese is auniquely that nostalgia of of full Already waves. the of spray white the of curtains by hidden currents create treacherous and rocks the against beat that but bodyboarding or surfing for areperfect that waves powerful in up rises it wind, the Together with rumble. afrightening with roll rocks large the makes sometimes and rough, very become can beaches or port, picturesque at is so This ocean. the of immensity the over out look beaches them, Between cliffs. steep the on limestone the of yellow golden the or clay the of ochre reflections the multiplies spray salty the by filtered light, continuously. The echoes sea the of symphony the steep, and rough rocks, huge the On sailors. the of safety the for built had Algarve the of Bishop the that one the of version recent amore is alighthouse, there Cape the of point At the flight of birds of prey who who prey of birds of flight dizzying the watching enjoy who to people interest special is of It rowing-boats. small in ashore merchandise their to bring used who smugglers, for point look-out old is avery This area. the in point highest the to Torreleads Aspa, de of beach the towards left to the detour ashort for time is still There (barnacles). fresh or peppers) and tomatoes potatoes, with lobster, afish (sea-bream), asucculent agrilled toeat, savour to something for abreak for time is now it and forests, and pastures by surrounded being despite shellfish, of and sea the of smells that is aland This Castelejo caldeirada Vila do Bispo do Vila saudade perceves , road that that , road Beliche sargo , a kind , akind (stew (stew

. , or , or Tonel Tonel Beach . However, you can never be too careful. The sea on these these on sea The careful. too be never . However, can you Mareta , with its its , with

SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 17 SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 18 Vila doBispo: Traditional architecture Turning inland once again, it is only a short ashort is only it again, Turning once inland decorative. and picturesque merely arenowadays that windmills 18th the aresome Nearby, century. there from dating tiles with front altar afine has which Lourenço, São of other the and countryside, verdant by surrounded SantoAntónio of one chapels: pretty two and carving, gilt in altars its of EN 125 at the village again once fishing the in arrive will we direction, asoutherly in Continuing trees. eucalyptus fragrant the amongst in by followed is immediately to leads a road where at acrossing arrive will we time a short In people. by and time by untouched remained thathas nature with somehow, different landscape, aspecial Algarve, South-east the and Vicentina Costa the of Park Natural the of of direction the in to head choose shall we Bispo, do Vila In breed. to cliffs steep the choose Budens , in search of the Main Church with with Church Main the of search , in Pedralva , this time, into the heart heart into time, the , this , a tiny village which which village , atiny Pero Queimado View from Torre d’Aspa , And so here we can see charming houses of red sandstone, in amongst green vegetable plots and and plots vegetable green amongst in sandstone, red of houses charming see can we here so And verb the from derived Arabic, in “sorcerers” into the through distance places where there is there where places pubs, and discos of shortage no is also There restaurants. and bars centre, the town in or the in squares the in heard to music be live is often Centre. There Cultural Lagos the in music, classical and theatre as such many others nature,alongside traditional of a shows include offer on activities cultural The choice. for arespoilt you end the in and brightly up is lit city the meet, cultures and peoples where place as a reputation its to justice offer.Doing on activities cultural and nightlife of at the arrived Having resorts. into luxury transformed were farms small other and houses, country the of some in seen were tourism rural of beginnings the where world, rural the and sea the of horizon the between contrast the accentuating hill, the of contours the follow fairways whose Club, Golf Palmares the and sports water the day. mention same also We the sea must the in caught fishermen the what specialities as serving restaurants, sophisticated but small and dunes undulating sand, unpolluted fine of are7kilometres there Algarve: the in beaches beautiful most the of is one This Praia. Meia overlooking ahill Palmares, in of made baskets made locally the in carried been always has fruit whose trees, almond of groves Barragem da Bravura da Barragem the for head we so and water of astretch on again once eyes our to feast need the We feeling arenow leaves. palm or grass barrocal to Barão de S. Miguel S. de Barão Barão de São João São de Barão , recognisable by the fig, almond and carob-trees, we get get to we carob-trees, and almond fig, the by , recognisable , a man-made lake, and thence to thence lake, and , aman-made Lagos Marina Lagos joie de vivre de joie , both of which are on the edge of a national forest. Now on our way up up way our on Now forest. anational of edge the areon which of , both in abundance. in , where the rural charm of traditional architecture predominates, going going predominates, architecture traditional of charm rural the , where , we are back in the city, ready to take advantage of the wide range range wide the of advantage to take ready city, the in areback , we sahara (to enchant). Odeáxere and, along a gravel road, we will arrive arrive will we road, agravel along and, Bensafrim , which means means , which Lagos Marina esparto esparto

SAGRES TOUR BARLAVENTO 19 2 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 0 Monchique kilometres of the southwestkilometres ofPortugal. paradisesover othertourist discerned thedozens of Fóia, inamongst theruggednessofrocks, canbe But alsofor thesoul:there in thearea surrounding andtheeyes. the skin paradise sings:thisisadifferentkind ofexperience for of thewindandmoistnessallaround, thisforest and thesmellofpinetrees, thefreshness between thealdertrees Between leafy landscapesofMadeira. the BlackForest, ofEurope, otherhillyparts andthe withSintra,andMonserrate. Butalsowith similarity Algarve’s landscapes. They say thatthere isgreater travelling around ofthe theleastMediterranean ago.centuries Ontheroads inthe inthelastofconquests,and Christians seven we thesamered willdiscern bloodspilled by wars fought witharrows, catapultsandboilingoil, of thetowering Silves castlewe willgetasenseof battlements Onthepreserved the late afternoon. love thefoam andsandswhichmouldtheirfeet in beaches withcliffs, steep rocks andseagullswho fullofoccasionalholiday-makers,second homesoften also goround oldfishermen’s houses, nowadays where LagosandPortimãoto be. we know We shall whitewash atourfeet, andinthedistance, nearby in thehaze; thereofthe isthatluminousquality the southwest ismagnificent. Two seascanbeseen F rom upthere towards inMonchique, theview serra we willbe 2 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 1 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 22

FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 23 +/- 2 112km FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 4 Carthaginians, Romans andArabsallwent Romans uptheriverAradetoCarthaginians, Silves, remains andleft inthearea. Butit tells isthatPhoenicians, Greeks, thebanksofriverAradeandsea.History between was born Before leaving of contrastsandsurprises. atour consisting Algarve, different ofthe parts This willbealookat deMonchique. Serra green landscapeofthe upproudlyrises from the Fóia,the Algarve, which up to thehighestpointin freakscharming ofnature, by thewindinto such by theseaandmoulded Praia lapped daRocha, from rocks themighty at again, andwe willtravel Portimão to Fóia andback usfromThis tour takes Portimão - Rocha Beach Portimão , we candiscover city, somethingofthetourist buzzingwithlife, atown which Monchique -FóiaMonchique entrance is theConvent ofSãoFrancisco built in1535. fine façade.river, Nearthe notfarfrom theharbour be visited withitssandstone doorway, engraved ina da Conceição (Our Lady oftheConception) should ofmonuments, terms thechurchIn ofNossaSenhora of this. the RuaNova, orofthePostigo daIgreja are examples andmerchants,of fishermen theLargo daBarca, like in walls cladintiles. The narrow streets oftheoldquarter iron railings, stone door andwindow surrounds and houses,with theirtwo-storey balconieswithwrought thesestreets, thatcharacterises of the20thcenturies architecture from the endofthe19thandbeginning thehouses.walls stillstandinbetween Butitisthe historical centre where of the mediaeval some sections inthe Any tour starts aroundinevitably thecity ofPortimão. city the modern to whathasbecome 15th century, whichgave birth was thePortugueseDiscoveries in themiddleof José with its simple façade, is located in an old part ofthecity, withitssimplefaçade,José islocated infront inanoldpart ofthenaval shipyards. is Nearby hasonlyonenave ofthe in theAlgarve, (acharacteristic “igreja salão” or church”).“hall The ChapelofSão 1660 and1707by DiogoGonçalves, intheFar anoblemanwhobecamerich church, thelargest East.Its After thatthere istheCollege oftheJesuits, withitsaustere andmajesticlines, commissionedbetween finedoorway. ofthechurch,All thatisleft whichwasassobertheconvent isavery section, harbour wereharbour defended informer times. Leaving thetown to thewest, we reach with theFort ontheothersideofriver(in ofSãoJoão watchThe Fortress over keeps themouthof theAradeandtogether deRibamar ofSantaCatarina inthesun. the blueseamerges withthehorizon, sparkling in Nearby beach. artificial provides andshopping, for abusyarea andanice The PortimãoMarina, itspart, ofentertainment archaeology. andafineexampleofindustrial from theendof19thcentury the old “Feu” Canning Factory itisabuildingdating into Museum: theMunicipal whichhasbeenturned in thesalt-marsh, glidingandcircling over to theshallow thebluesea theshore, waters next skimming beach pulleddown to force them to live in Vila birdstheirnests deSanto Real António. make Migratory heading for theNew World, othersfleeingfromMarquês the de Pombal, whohadtheirhutsonthe coloured boats. Tradition camefrom hasitthatthey Gordo,andgetonboard Monte aship someto try shellfish,as brightly offishingandgathering wellastheir keep alive theskills The traditionalfishermen can bestbeenjoyed onunforgettable boattrips. oftheriveronother,the vastestuary separated by alongdune. This isaplaceoftotal calm,which stop isin The next from oneofthemany vessels thathave beenshipwrecked here over thecenturies. divers. mysteriesThe to clearwaters beuncovered allow underwater and, sometreasure whoknows, beach) lieshiddenaway therocks between where seagullsflyandwhosewaters are frequented by formingviewpoint, theendofcliffs whichsurround the beach,whilethe Irmãos Três on,the are calmwatershallmarks andfinesands. itswarm, João Arens Alittlefurther Ponta de isanatural Praia daRocha Alvor . Asmallparadisewithoutequal,deAlvor hasthesea ononesideand theRia , thecliffs surround ahugearea ofsand. FromBela the point, Vista viewing Ferragudo ), ensuredandthe thatthecity Praia do Vau Prainha , whose (small

Ferragudo 2 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 5 2 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 6 greenfinch and theblackcap. other birds suchasthe bee-eater, thebeccafico, thebluemagpie, the woodpecker, thegoldfinch, the is abundantwildlife. The ofbirdlife highlightsinterms birds of prey, are andnocturnal thediurnal and and carob trees alternate withwildaromatic plants.to thisimpressive Linked ofplants, diversity there plantations andcultivateda mountainroad valleys. throughcork-oak spectacular Wild olive trees, olive andwe willpassthroughthe Barrocal area do thevillageofSenhora oftheAlgarve Verde, aswe windup The beautifulmosaics are thegreatest treasure oftheRuinsAbicada.At thispoint,we are already in A.D.,3rd rurallandowner century by attheconfluenceof arich FareloSenhora do and Verderivers. information on,there to satisfytheircuriosity. are theremains Alittlefurther villabuiltinthe ofaRoman monument lasted for more Centre, than4,000 years. theInterpretation In of visitors willfindplenty archaeological remains are proof ofahumanpresence here datingfrom theNeolithicperiod. The Taking theEN125indirectionof standardinternational inthisarea. and surrounded by hugeleafytrees. Aficionados ofthegamewillfindothercourses of recognised was created, Cotton thefirstgolfcourseinAlgarve designed thisformer bySirHenry rice-field, In We shallthenmove of onto thepark as parachuting, aswell transport. asfastprivate to thepeacefulvillageof them. Andnext marabouts. The onto onlytracesoftheCastle ofAlvor are lengthsofwallwithhousesbacking two The andSãoPedro, chapelsofSãoJoão whichare square inshapewithrounded cupolasare alsoArab holymanis buried). Muslim The churchyard affords anexcellent Ria. view over the interest isthesacristy, whichisjoinedto thechurch where andisanoldArabmarabout(theshrine a Apointof style. intheManueline porticos carved avisit,with itsrichly ChurchThe Main iswell worth with theirwings. Vau Beach Lagos Penina Montes deAlvor , follow thesigns to getto theRuinsof Alcalar. The , whichinHebrew means “pearl”. , theaerodrome such hasfacilitiesfor sports Soon wein Soon arrive road whichleadsto Baixa In Chapel ofSanto António, founded by theBishopofSilves, D. Fernando daSilvaCoutinho, (1501–1536). sausages ofthemeatfrom pigs”,“black ofsweets, terms hamscured In andsmoked intheoldstyle. one deliciousare Particularly the locallymade ofroast ofmaize orthelocalspeciality pork. porridge, a kind this isespeciallyinteresting disheswithchestnuts, andwithunusualcombinationssuchasrice dishesof itisgoodto haveoutthelocalcuisine:in After abreak beingoutinthecountryside, to try panoramic photographs. andvillagesare andhorseriding,The farms of nearby idealfor andfor walking cycling thetaking view. standsthelargest Justnearby magnolia inEurope,ofthenaturalheritage. whichisclassifiedaspart away,Desterro (Our LadyoftheExile),lessthan1km are surrounded by trees andprovide awonderful dosPassos. andtheChapelofSenhor of theMisericórdia The ruinsoftheConvent do ofNossaSenhora theCapela style, doSantíssimo(achapel),thechurches intheManueline ofSãoSebastião, main portico Largo justhasto deSãoSebastião bevisited. thetown centre Church In canbeseentheMain withthe From here we godown to whentheweatherwarmth ismostwintery. in summer, withasteady temperature of14ºCelsius, giving theillusionofcoolnessonhotdays andof The Fóia slope, spring, flows constantly, ataheightof798metres onthenortheastern bothinwinter and The landscapeisdifferent from unfolding the rest oftheAlgarve, andwithbubblingsprings. in terraces Sagres to Faro inthenorth. daArrábida to thesouth,andSerra of thecountry, stretching from thecoastlineto thehillsofAlentejo. Oncleardays, you canseefrom Point more sparseaswe climbup, untilthere isjustheatherandgorse. Andhere we are atthe Fóia Viewing Point Casais , onthetop ofthe , from where to Cabo thewholecoastcanbeseen,from deSão Vicente. Take thesmall , you turn on to the EN 267 in the direction of and after 4 km you cometo 4km andafter , youonto theEN267indirectionofMarmelete turn Casais Chilrão serra, , atthefoot ofFóia,notfaraway are away; theQuintaand eightkilometres Monchique , onaslopebuffeted by the Atlantic winds;the vegetation getsmore and 902metres above sealevel, withoneofthefinestpanoramasinsouth , where there are hydrangeas andcamelliasallaround andthe Fóia Viewing Monchique Portela

2 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 7 2 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 8 pudding. This isthelandof of thehighlightsis detacho”,“bolo madeofhoney, ofcake chocolate akind andcinnamon,honey Caldas deMonchique andpottery. seats, basketwork the roadside, shopsare thelittlecraft tempting, withtheirfamous “scissor” chairs, inspired by Roman backto thecoast,leaving thejourney thetown alongtheEN266where,And thenitistimeto start by brandy andhoney. Fóia Viewing Point Monchique - Caldas de Monchique appearsnearabendintheroad, thegreen between ofthemountainsand medronho fruit:growing wildandspontaneously, itisfamousfor its father pursued themasfar theriverwhere the ranaway prince together.Christian arage, her In anda Legend princess hasitthataMoorish whichwasuseduntil the14thcentury. river port ofthe valley at thesides, we getto On thesameroad, vegetation withluxuriant magnificent can beenjoyed. view and upto thetop ofPicota, from whoseslopesa andthe eucalyptus trees, thecork-oaks between anditisniceto walk full ofromantic perfumes, D.guest here wasKing II. João The airhere is tract. of therespiratory The mostillustrious and usedtoailments alleviate rheumatism water, referred which theRomans to as “sacred” spa is, oflight,pure withitsspring andcrystalline the blueofsky. This iswhere theMonchique Ribeira deOdelouca Ribeira Porto deLagos , anold inthe Now is a good time to pop into the Cork Museum, which forms part ofthe Now isagoodtimeto popinto whichforms Museum, theCork part “Fábrica doInglês”, aleisure andthecathedral. style, door intheManueline Other essentialplaces severalto visitare floors. church) theIgreja Misericórdia withits (Misericórdia da distanceaway on cistern Archaeological istheMunicipal built aroundA short Museum, a12thcentury the surrounding landscape. lived inthe “Palace ofthe Verandas”, outoverfinesandstone castledominates theriverArade. looking Its to stay withherlover. drownedpoor princess asshewastrying Herdesperate fathercalledout “ 10 kilometres further on,we getto further 10 kilometres louca Silves Archaeological -Municipal Museum Ribeira deOdelouca Ribeira !” (Literally translated as:Oh,whatmadness!)andthenamestuck. Silves , the magnificent city of , themagnificentXelb, city where caliphs, andpoets princes when they are hurt or sick, before or sick, being arewhen they hurt pheasants andeagles whichrecover here timid stagsanddeer share thearea with school.restored former primary The huntingcentreis atourist set upina outsideSilves. Heresome 6km there exoticthe somewhat canbefoundand rocks fullofhistory thequietsurroundings ofgentlehills In metres carved. highandrichly cross whichisthree century sixteenth Cruz dePortugal(Cross ofPortugal),a inthedirectionof city theroad take goingeastfrom the Next, factory. complex builtinanoldcork Centro Cinegético Enxerim Oh! de Oh! , to the , 2 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 9 3 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 0 reproducing exotic plantsandshapes whichgive theman Portugal, whichare totally covered inornamentation, columns, tilesandthetwo uniquein of its18thcentury small village whose churchus immediately because strikes We to move kilometres onanothertwo ofpopularart. the trademarks aredelicate someof miniatures offishingboatsandcarts tones motifs. anddecorated withrusticandmarine The Lagoa life andparcel ofeveryday in areHandicrafts stillpart the area nearPorches. anonymously. Amenhirstandsinthegardens, from taken where inthepastabandonedchildren were placed the road. At theentrancethere is a wheeloffoundlings; it hasatower pointandanarch withaviewing over for exhibitions. Builtinthe18thcentury,and withagallery monument in Lagoa is the ConventThe most important of S. José, which is now used as a cultural centre, winters, idealfor outingsonhorsebackorfoot. inthesun. of excellentripen from quality thecoastanditisacalmplace, withmild isabout5km The city away,Lagoa isonlysixkilometres andwascalledAbenabeceby theArabs. This isaplacewhere grapes Venda Nova withitsorange groves ontheway. Warmed by thelegend, we cross theAradeandleave ontheroad the city to delicate snowflakes. The princess’s wascured livedever andthey happily after. homesickness her, ordered almondtrees to beplanted inallthefieldssothatwhite the blossom would looklike to seethesnow, asinhernative country. To pleaseher, from theprince thesouth,whohadcaptured Silves , especiallypottery, painted withbeautiful blue Estombar , a dying of homesickness becauseshewanted dying ofhomesickness was The legendhasitthatthebeautifulprincess ofthecity,prince thesonofCaliph ofSeville. Nordic andAl-Mu’tamid, Romaiquia poetand oldest, andin The Legend oftheAlmond Trees isoneofthe orange. better thananiceAlgarve yolks). offruit,there Andinterms isnothing filledwithamix of almondsand shaped cakes sweet madewitheggs)and “meias luas” (crescent- nuts andasipofPortwine), “doce deovos” (a are real”“bolo fruits, madeofcrystallized (acake ofthelocalsweetgame meat.Some specialities “carapaus alimados”; andfrom thehillscame to insaltfor bemarinated thefamouslocaldish (horse mackerel)were brought uptheArade, bread. mint andhome-made The “carapaus” tastes, suchastraditionalpotato soup, with The cuisineinSilves isbasedonfragrant old set free again. Silves itinvolved thelove ofthe Lagoa passingthrough Silves –Cork Museum kilometres to kilometres the fourAfter driving touch. oriental the sea,inaplacewhere we are onceagainbeside Returning to Returning and caves ontheshore oftheriver. the harbour, passingby Chapelstandswithapanorama of crags, asmallislandwhere hills theRosário and thevillageare aspecialplaceto spendyour leisure time, withboatcruisesuptheriverleaving from To guard Arade, theFortress themouthofRio wasbuiltinFerragudo. ofS.João Today, thefortress ofofferings fromcollection seafarers, in recognition ofmiraculous rescues. daConceição,Senhora stairway, andatthetop ofacurious hasaninteresting highabove theport agudo” iron), sharp usedto pull thenetsfullofsardines from (literally: thesea. The Church ofNossa onthewayand gothrough to Serrão Ferragudo. Mato This fishingvillage owes itsname to a“ferro thebeautifulPraiaAfter viewing doPintadinho, from around, the clifftops we need to retrace oursteps lilies, wild orchids, thistles and poplars, in an orgy of colours of natural abundance. ormore withhundred-year-old precisely aneco-museum Arade;thisisapark, of theRio olive trees, wild Don’t missthechanceto visitthe caves thatcanbevisited by boatandare accessiblethrough secret routes alongthecliff. fascinating place, with18 (Lovers’ Terrace). This isa dosNamorados”“Varanda shapes forming theromantic and thesea,theirfantastic Seco, sculpted by thewind unusual rocks atAlgar (800 m)you canseethe head outto sea.Nearby fishingboats the colourful Estômbar Church Portimão Carvoeiro , itistimeto samplethelocalcuisineinnumerous restaurants whichoffer , Sítio dasFontes Estômbar –Church (detail) , located about one kilometre away bank , located aboutonekilometre ontheleft good option. shows, would appearto bea note; thecasino, with its rather thenight)onahappy and where to end theday (or deciding where to have dinner the onlyproblem willbe Portimão bubbleswithlife: of thegastronomic heritage. fruits andare abasicelement locallyofdried importance The sweets show offthe some ofthemaindelicacies. sardines andclamsare to theseameansthatgrilled it. The closenessofPortimão 3 FOIA TOUR BARLAVENTO 1 COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 32 4 touched, suddenlyforgetting thecrowded city. We pleasure oursenses are take simplyinlooking, zagging ofthereptiles. there appearto beobstaclesintheunconsciouszig- red to welcome and purple themigrating birds, and there are fieldsdotted withunusualflowers, yellow, On thissideofthecliffs, where thestorks’ nestsperch, watching thefightfrom theedgeofprecipice. abrave outonarock, balancingact performing andtheAmericas,south, theirrods pointingto thesky We willfindothersonthesametrip, butfurther waters. whichmightemerge occasionallyfrom luck, thewarm their try in time, dreamersshirts incapsandchecked vastness oftheAtlantic. Onthebanks, asifstopped before losingthemselvesthe countryside inthe the wholecoast,windingwatercourses cutthrough landscape ofthe Vicentina below, coast.Down along again inAljezur, whichbreak uptheflat bitsofhistory south: thewhitewashed housesinOdeceixe, and The otherwhite, ofthehouses, follows usaswe head the eye cansee. engulfs thefinesandofbeachlandscapeasfar see iscovered inwhite: inthedistance, theseaspray Odeceixe to Vila doBispo, thatpassers-by theview Alentejo stretches alongtheAtlantic coast.From T he part of the Algarve thatismostsimilarto the of theAlgarve he part

COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 33 3 COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 4 3 COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 5 +/- 3 172km COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 6 to towers, erectingacoraofschistandtwo oneround andtheothersquare, defence for theperfect to ofAljezurcastleisattributed theArabs,The construction who, atthehighestpoint,limited themselves fromterraces, fromcastlewhichwastaken theArabsby Pedro theoctagonal Peres Correia in1246. populace, Aljezurremained dividedintwo. The oldtown slopesdown to theriverwithhouseson ofthe Either becausethehealthproblems were reluctanceonthepart solved, orbecauseofacertain front, andfor thisreason hadthechurch town. builtinthenew Bishop, D.about theirhealth,the19thcentury Francisco Gomes, wanted to move thevillageto thehillin Siltation ledto thestagnation difficult. ofthewater Concerned andthismadethelife ofthepeoplevery the riverwasnavigable. when have beennecessary of thebridges” would –they from theArabicis river “the A rough translationof “Aljezur” upto thecoastline.goes right which ofthepark, boundary Alentejo: theroad forms the Vicentina andtheSouthwest Natural Park oftheCosta we driveinto thearea ofthe onthecoast. last city Then the EN120from you cangetto Aljezuron you areIf onthesouthcoast, Town of Aljezur Lagos , the

Aljezur –Arrifana beach good state, it is worth goingforgood state, thepanoramaalone. itisworth below Down cultivated isthefertile, plain. Then You getto thecastleupsteep streets oftheoldtown, and, althoughthemonumentisnotinavery red.turning Time haserasedthehorrors, hasremained. butthenaturalbeauty kilometresmagnificent beachatAmoreira,from some6Aljezur, and were decimated there, thewater of theplace. Legend were whilethey hasitthattheArabswere by surprise bathingonthe taken After crossing to town thenew acorner, thebridge and turning Church, theMain standsinfront ofyou ofthedailylives ofthosewhohave chosenaquietwaybecome part oflife. have puttheir stamponpopularculture and onthebeaches:theseartefacts made ofshellscollected Continuing oursearch for craftspeople, inotherstreets anditems of white houses we canfindpottery dolls. The men concentrate more on basketwork, weaving their cane or wickerthe women unawares lace. Alittlelower are asthey making down, theredelightful are othersmaking in rivalry with their neighbours. There are many stilllivingintheoldtown. craftspeople iswhereThe RuadoNascerSol you cancatch to feel you are hungry,If starting don’t forget thatoneofthelocalspecialitiesis gallery. isinaformer chapelbuiltinthe17thcentury. The Antoniano ofReligious Art Museum Nearby, there withanethnographic Museum istheMunicipal andanarchaeological centre, aswell asa Cercas, whichallows you to findoutaboutthelife sonsofAljezur, ofonetheillustrious andhistime. having andHouseofthepainter agoodlookattheMuseum When you José godown again,itisworth deEspinhaço Cão.Serra come thehillsofCerro andfinallytheslopesof dasMós pastéis tocomes atthebeginning appearinstews, ofautumn,sweet are andthey into potatoes start turned are atender pieceofveal season,which essential thingstoorasucculentsea-bream. try In cumin. Other theclassicAlgarve porridge): “xarem”, madefrom maize flourbutwithaspecialseasoningthatsmellsof (patties) which they make herenowhere make like (patties)whichthey else. papas mouras (Moorish (Moorish

Aljezur Castle 3 COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 7 3 COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 8 flavours, strong andunique. tides were favourable. Simple in theday’s catch andifthe moray eel,fried ifthesewere asandwichwith Or perhaps potato, orthelatter, baked. (patties) madefrom sweet nothing better than To accompany it,there is refreshing taste isdeceptive! traditional way andthe because itismadeinthe wine, butbecareful isthelocal toSomething try asymphony ofsoundtogetherthe wind, withtheblackbirds,nightingalesandgoldfinches. making soonweVery reach there arethe coast.Alongthistrack, fieldsplanted alternately withsweet potato andvines. fromadventurous about3kilometres cutto theleft, andhave an appropriate theshort vehicle cantake We have to return alongthesametrackto getbackto thetarred road, althoughpeoplewhoare more for gliding. Leaving ontheEN120,wetowards turn thetown to thecoastfor thenorth some thefirsttimeafter thiswalksoasnotto missasmallwonder. timepermits, anditisonly6kilometres,try If riverbank. thecastlemoundandbeachof thepathbetween mention awalk: isnow timeto leaveIt thetown, insearch thecliffs, ofbeacheshiddenbetween butfirst wemust chest. a Eucharist with theimageofpatron deAlvastandingout,alongwithagothicchaliceand saintNossaSenhora Aljezur – Main Church Rogil pastéis where arecently restored millisessentialviewing. The sailsonceagainsingin

Carriagem Beach Praia daAmoreira using thewind from above, and down looking sparrow-hawks goshawks and birds. Eagles, marine numerous the flightof to observe have thechance Here you will Carriagem of at thebeach to have alook seven kilometres Praia da , alongthe . Another detour, alsoonagravel road, usto thelittlevillageof takes sizes, both for rooftops, andsimplyasadecoration. handicrafts. potsare chimney madehere. decorated, Algarve Richly The typical there are ofall chimneys having apeepinto iswellthelittleshopsby theroadside, worth It especiallyifyou are fond of sought after. isfour from kilometres here It to themouthofriverOdeceixe, withabeachoneach implements following ofhandicrafts, terms items made of leatherare In thewholemilling cycle. much above, there isarebuilt mill, andfunctioning withafineview overInside, thevillage. there isadisplay of andthebeach. thecountryside symbiosis between There are majestic pinesandeucalyptustrees. Up The route to freshly caughtshellfish. all around provide theraw for material restaurants, Andinthenearby items ofhandicraft. you caneat to theEN120,weReturning gothrough transparent prawns moving around water. inthepuddlesofwarm here, thedream ofalltravellers. Asmallrivercreated alittlebeachatitsmouth.At low tide, there are tiny, thereGetting isnotthateasy, theeffort. butitisdefinitely worth paradise tobe There isadeserted found Samoqueira beach. Odeceixe islinedwithleafytrees. The town islocated inanarrow valley, andthere isaclear Maria Maria Vinagre , where thewhelksfound on theidyllicbeaches Esteveira , andfrom there to the

Windmill in Rogil 3 COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 9 COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 40 Afterwards they come out with their sacks on their backs, soaked to the skin, to pick outthisdelicious come outwiththeir sacksontheirbacks, to they theskin, soaked Afterwards toing andfroing ofthewaves to allow themaccessto theshellfishbeds, located underthewater line. traditional way, tiethemselves to therocks witharope, andwaitontherazor’s edgefor thewild At Pedra da Agulha, aconicalrock inthe upinfront fishermen, rising ofthebeach,barnacle and theirproduce canbesavoured inthe little localrestaurants. balance precariously. thatthisiswhere thebestfishing They know grounds are onthe Costa Vicentina, thefishermen’s andcalm.Ontheroadtide, whichleadsdown to orelsepowerful theport, houses rockdark away withit.Anunendingstruggle, withthe waves ondays withaspring crashingfuriously in shape, andallthemore beautifulfor it. There, thesearose upinanger andwanted to dragbitsofthe irregular ofthecoastbetween the smallfishingport. and Pedrada Atalaia isparticularly This part Carraça Heading souththistime, towards the competes withthewingsofultralites andthesailsofhanggliders. up to thetop ofthecliffs whichcommandafabulouspanoramic view.Sometimes theflightofbirds and thewaves areBefore waitingfor ofradicalsports. atthecrossroads, turning practitioners we shallgo Monte Clérigo off laterto turning and 2km andreturn toBut weAljezurontheEN120,thistimepassingthrough shallstay thetown intheAlgarve to unite andnottoover divide. serve themsothatthey other sideofthehillsisAlentejo; asboundaries, asrivershavemen always builtbridges served theimpetuousseaandfreshAll ofthisisbecausethemeetingbetween waters oftheriver. Onthe of hand, atonemomentwe canseeabeach,thenanimpetuousriver, andthenadocilestream. small sandshelfappears. When theriverfillsupagain,suddenly reed bedsdisappear. As if by sleight usaboutthe landscapeisthatitconstantlychanging.What surprises When thetideturns, suddenlya sidethere Onthesouthern point. isaviewing bank. Town of Odeceixe . outcaves inunusualshapes, rocksThe seahascarved left scattered around inthesand, Vale da Telha Praia daArrifana . Near the coast, if you head north, you getto thebeachat . Nearthecoast,ifyou headnorth, , imposingrocks appearbefore us whichshelter A short 3 km drive takes usto drivetakes 3 km A short with thesimplephrase:ittastes ofthesea! seafood, whosetaste canonlybedescribed used to make thatfamousbrandy,used to make trees, are wildandspontaneous, whoseberries oaksandpines,cork aswell asthestrawberry rosemary. Ontheslopesofhillsthere are The airisfilledwiththesmelloflavender and reason for beingintheNaturalPark isclear. Nature aboundsinsmellsandcolours, andour through Alfambras. Andin goingsouthontheEN120passing we keep ped, untilwe reach with placeswhere timeseemsto have stop- on aroad surrounded vegetation by luxuriant surrounding hills, weto headwest turn again Cão Arrifana Beach –thenameofbothvillageand Monte Ruivo Espinhaço de Vales . medronho andthen . The altarsare intheneoclassical arch. by thetriumphal supported there isjustonenave,Inside it predates the 1755earthquake. Parish Church. White andsimple, are only afew metres from the wein arrive 5 km, we south.After onceagainturn withtheEN268, At thejunction see foxes. sometimes thelocalssay they past,and spot ahare skipping over theroad.isnotdifficult to It themsweeping the quailstakes wild catshideaway. The flightof here thatlynxes, wildboarand and mauve wildflowers.It is withred,cistus isspeckled yellow discovered. The green ofthe the trackwent round, now in asmallnarrow valley, which us curiously, theirhidingplace of goldenbrown cows watch the breeze. Aphlegmatic herd The eucalyptustrees sway in Goose Barnacles Goose and

COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 41 4 COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 2 Carrapateira Odeceixe

Carrapateira - Church beaches stretch inlandinwidedunes, orelse plummetintothey thefrothing waves. The you to seethe profile ofthehighcliffs as Amado Between the uniquelandscape. whitewashed houses, man’s to contribution closer by, brokenoccasionally by the ocean faraway, thegreens ofthevegetation enjoy over theview blue ofthe thedark Once atthetop ofthenearest hill, you can heedlessly. banks ofthestream, otters splasharound the tops ofthecoloured rocks. Andonthe are peepingout from reptiles andtortoises watch againstthewhimsofocean. There is resisted by fragile wildplants, standing changed by thewindandtides. This The dunesallaround have theirshape wouldthey nolongerbeableto escape. coastfromlead themto therocky where inhabitants would lightfires which would from thecliffs. Onseeingtheenemy, the corsairs were signalling causedby incorrect Legend hasitthatmany oftheshipwrecks of century). pieces ofSanto António andSãoPedro (16th church,an earlier asshown inthealtar Governor oftheKingdom. enclosed The fort da Cunha deAtaíde, Count ofPontevel and in1673by D. ofthefort construction Nuno from andelsewhere ledto the tells usthatthepresence ofcorsairs History theriverthatflows nearby.overlooking oldvillage, almosthiddeninthedunes, very stop isin The next by beingbuiltcloseto thehillside. protected from thewindsandbadweather withjustoneslopingside.style, They are The housesinBordeira are builtintheBerber style. Manueline inthe withafineportal is thecemetery to thechurch, Next withgiltstyle, carving. , theroad alongtheshore allows Praia daBordeira Carrapateira and . This isa Praia do the strong breeze from theseaandcoloursofsunsetare reflected inthechoppy sea. rugged cliffs, theonlynoisessoundofwaves andtheflappingofseagulls’ wings. Youcan feel Here you canseethesunsettingover thevastnessofAtlantic ocean,withtheseabeatingagainst the Forno follow therows ofsteep cliffs, asifchallenging thesea. are smallnests, like bordered by rocks. The beachesatPraia daBordeira, the city the Romans called Lacobriga, andthePortugueseLagos. calledLacobriga, theRomans the city distanceontheEN125backto thebeautiful, to theArabs, cosmopolitan Zawaia,short asitwasknown ventured, maintainthatunspoiledbeauty, anenviable isnow naturalheritage, stilluntouched.onlya It other landsandpeoples. Even today, thelandwhere were they andtheseainto whichthey born wrote, theDiscoveries, invoking thesagawhichtook Portugueseseafarers allover insearch theworld of the coast.At your feet, withthetears ofPortugal, theimmensesea,salty asthepoetFernando Pessoa to Returning Vila doBispo, your carandwalkto park the Torre d’Aspa, oneofthehighestpointsalong theirlives.choppy waters, sometimeseven risking withsalt,accepting thechallengeofpullingfish,shellfishandmolluscs and handssoaked from the water. The brave menstandthere, facingtheinfinite bluestretching away from their feet, withtheirfaces the shellfishgatherers from Vila doBispostandonthelittleshelves of rock anddrop theirlinesinto the adetour tomake thebeachat To return oncemore to gaze uponthevastnessofocean–somethingwe never tire of–we can into seats. turned andvertebrae by ribs up by thesea:hutssupported along theCosta Vicentina. ofthesefearsomeThe localsonlymadeuseoftheskeletons creatures, washed appeared, today whatwe aswhales. know For centuries, thesecetaceansfollowed route amigratory Fishing developed andshellfishgathering to complementagriculture.In thewildseas, strangemonsters numerous windmills. A landofabundance, apastthatisattestedVila to doBispowasthebreadbasketofAlgarve, by Francês (Frenchman’s caves), intoandstalagmites. ofstalactites theworld trip anunexpected exhibitions intheCultural Centre.kilometres outsidethe Aboutfivetown you canfindtheGrutasdo tilesandthere are Church,do Cabo. frequent theMain thereof18thcentury isafinecollection In stop is Continuing south,ontheEN268,next Vila do Bispo Praia doCastelejo Vila doBispo , Cordoama’s At twin. , known originally as Santa Maria originally asSantaMaria , known Pontal Ponta daÁguia , Palheirão (EaglePoint), , or Ilha do , orIlha 4 COSTA VICENTINA TOUR BARLAVENTO 3 44 TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO Rio enduring remains of the Moorish era. remainsenduring oftheMoorish ourselves andfindourselves againamongstthemost oftheSotavento. by theAlgarve charmed We shalllose smelling oftheseaonedgeOlhão. We shallbe the thousandgardens ofLoulé, thethousandrestaurants and thenbecamewhite. The thousandchurches of , We walls moorish shallvisitoldcitieswhich oncehaddark selltothey foreigners, andrushingcar-borne travellers. weave andshapewhatever canfind, they wicker which shade ofvirgin wallsanddecorated pots, chimney they inthe the seasjustfor whitewashed doorways, them.By their lives inthislandofcarobs andalmonds, livingfarfrom embraced for ever by thelandofCaldeirão, building But we shallnever losesightofthepeoplewholive there: horseback. on bearing andpeopleofhaughty of pleated skirts onthewind, mirages of Andalusianclappingcarried there.the peninsula,whichrises We willhear thesounds banksofthegreatsight ofSpain,theshimmering riverof Later, on agentledetour into theAlentejo, we shallcatch our eyes ontheinfiniteness oftheocean. we in abut shall bitalwaysdrink of the Mediterranean, with inthelazy,peacefulwater; the fine, sandandourspirit soft and many othermigrant birds. We ourfeet shallwarm in and inthesalt-marshes where there are herons andstorks, thereedswalk between whichare fullofendlesssurprises, billions ofgrains ofsandalongthegentlecoastline. We will to swirling, divingbirds, where shellsin thewater buries us. whichareWe home oftheAlgarve willtravel to parts F tour or afew days, we shallleave theruggedcoastbehind beyond the barlavento

TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO 45 46 TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO

TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO 47 +/- 286km 48 TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO tour These expressions have a maritime flavour, and it is easy to imagine seafarers trying to work out the the out work to trying seafarers flavour,imagine to it is easy and have amaritime expressions These the is called region the of part westerly most the beginning: the at difficult seem may which names arespecific there compass: the of points normal the using by places to refer these not do Algarve the of However, people the Algarve. Eastern the of landscapes different the and cities of to anumber discover Algarve the of part western the in arestaying who people allow will which excursion is along Barlavento the beyond tour The

Serra - Barranco do Velho beyond the barlavento Barlavento , while the East is referred to as the to the as is referred East the , while

Sagres - Salema Beach Sotavento Verandas on behalf of a a of behalf on the Verandas of Palace the “….Salute follows: as city the evoked Mutamid 1063, In rule. Al Islamic of period the during science of men and to poets home was which capital magnificent in starts tour This Algarve. the of sides other discover and there, go have to you things, these ToSanto António. experience de Real accent Vila in heard sing-song the or Caldeirão, do Serra the of foothills the of sensuality gentle the cistus, the of smell pungent the describe cannot maps is that the beyond tour a having for reason Another serra the hillsof the of is asynthesis culture the where region, this in language everyday the of Sotavento terms The currents. ocean the and clouds the of movement the watching by direction wind . and the sea. the and have become part part have become Barlavento Barlavento Silves and and , the , the

lions and white gazelles white like and lions there lived warriors Once Castle. its for longing permanent a feels Who nobleman up above, standing out against the bluish background of the hills, the red stone Castle, built on ground ground on built Castle, and stone trees, red tower.” fig the large and a hills, by the orange of filled crowned almond, streets and of background the steeply groves bluish minarets, away the and luxuriant falls against the that out terraces its around all with standing and sun, above, below up tropical down and almost the in bazaars, shining with palaces the of façades Arab the with city, Asian like an splendid amphitheatre, an like up rises …. “Silves 1189, enthralled: as just was in Christians the by city the of conquest the of arecord kept who acrusader perspective, adifferent from And dens!…” beautiful such forests, and beautiful such in And leather, ceramics and handmade pottery. For those with a sweet tooth, now is the time to try out out to try time is the now tooth, asweet with those For pottery. handmade and leather, ceramics of items baskets, making craftspeople and areshops there handicrafts, of arefond who people For Health). of Lady (Our Saúde da Senhora Nossa of Chapel 18thto the century up climb can you town, the over view panoramic asplendid to enjoy And diseases. other and plagues against to 16th protect the in century built was it history: unusual an has Sebastião S. of Chapel The Arco Remexido. do the through get to nearby,you which lanes the in seen be to architecture popular of examples arefine there Outside, recommended. is highly to his Museum-House Avisit born. was Deus de João pedagogue and poet the where was this and Caldeirão, do Serra the in Grande Penedo of hill to the close located EN 124 the We take will to intact. is still much, so admired crusader the and for longed Mutamid Al which Castle, the and aura amagic has still Silves yesteryear, of brilliance the without later, centuries Eight albeit and Cachopo S. Bartolomeu de Messines de Bartolomeu S. which is about 25 km away. The town is town away. km 25 The is about which for walking, horse riding and cycling, cycling, and riding horse walking, for areideal which around spots beauty are many natural There trees. carob and almond fig, of orchards and groves orange soil, fertile reddish, is the south the To oaks. holm and trees strawberry oaks, cork with arecovered north the of tranquillity the in yourself immerse can you town the of outskirts the On honey. flavoured rosemary and lavender orange, the and (pastries) “folhados” Messines famous the serra . The rounded hills to the hillsto the rounded . The Barrocal , with its its , with

Silves

TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO 49 50 TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO The time has now come to set off again, passing through Benafim and near Rocha da Pena, a limestone limestone da a Rocha Pena, near and Benafim through passing again, off to come set now has time The shops. cake local honey, the in and almonds with made those especially cakes, and sweets delicious the not try to be terrible would it And . about more bit a out to you find allow and tiles, and ceramics local the of something show Workshop Ceramics the and Memory) of (House Memória” da “Casa The dolls. wooden at make Torre, they where workshop craft us to the takes Margarida toto Santa road on detour km A3.5 Alte. de Ribeira the of valley the of freshness the all conveying cascade, gentle a in sparkle Fonte Grande of spring at the waters The architecture. traditional of details picturesque of streets The rosemary. of perfume the and orchids wild delicate the roses, wild climbing the beauty: of is full landscape The aromatic. or the of part this in plant of species 390 than aremore there that is thought It titmice. and woodpeckers spotted earth, the in banks in nests their make which bee-eaters, the for: out listen to sounds aremany There different. is also lavender the of perfume the and thistles the of pollen the carrying breeze the and scenery, the in greens a many different are There mist. the in bluish distance, the in Serra the in points highest the with valleys, arehillsand there sea, the of waves the of place the take land of waves Here Algarve. is adifferent this and Caldeirão, do Serra the of EN 124. the on still middle east, the in We right arenow is place stopping next The undeciphered. remain today even which peninsula, the of southwest the of writing the of records with found were steles important most the of some that Messines, from kilometres a few just Benaciate, called aplace in was it interest: of out Just canoes. to hire is possible it there, Once dams. Arade and Funcho the in water of expanses refreshing to up the especially Alte Alte are worth having a walk round, to see the chimneys and the parapets, those those parapets, the and chimneys the to see round, awalk having areworth serra Alte , many of them medicinal medicinal them , many of , about 15 , about to the km and so soft that they appear appear they that soft so and rounded, and equidistant height, same the are all that mountains of sea a –but see can we that mountains of asea really is area: this “It about said Proença Raul writer The to come .we road, same the on stretch a15 After km beautiful. and indomitable hills, gentle the in gash furious 479 a high, ridge metres

Alte range that both entrances and and entrances both that range enormous this in gentle and caressing something softness, as time same at the grandeur is There velvet. of made to be know the culture of a people if you do not know about their gastronomy. For this reason, this is an ideal isideal an this reason, this For gastronomy. their about know not do you if apeople of culture the know get to to is difficult It heritage. local the of part clearly is quite cuisine the where restaurants of number area there ahill, top of the on perched village Algarve (9 km), to atypical Querença road the On bee-eaters. and herons titmice, kingfishers, with space the share otters the banks, the On holm-oaks. and rosemary thyme, river,arecarob-trees, the there of sides to the valley the of slopes the On oleanders. and brambles beds, reed tamarisks, willows, areash-trees, There beauty. greatof natural area, protected This is a Benémola. of Fonteda site classified the through passing EN the on 525 towards we continue bridge, old fine Tôr its through with passing after and EN 525 to on the We turn now defending. needed area the 12th when the century in Arabs the by constructed and the by inhabited of Castle the of made be must Mention us”.subdues Querença - Fonte da Benémola Salir , built on land land on , built Querença , Hills of the Serra

TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO 51 5 TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO 2 Gharb”. In front, on the other bank and in a different country is San Lucar del Guadiana. There aremany There Guadiana. del San Lucar is country adifferent in and bank other the Gharb”. on front, In “Al- of time the dates from which castle the by river, the crowned of bank the on stands town The Guadiana. river in to arrive is good it so and lands arid through trip along been has It military. the in luck their to try having to avoid frontier the defend to promise and in thecouncil at bond a themsign to for sufficient was It into debt. fallen had who people for arefuge was 19th the in century land, populated sparsely through We pass cheeses. goat sweet-smelling the or honey rosemary sweet the is to nice It try occupations. and customs clothes, their village, the of inhabitants the representing jute from create dolls women Needle) the of Flower “A (The Agulha” da Flor workshop the In ruggedness. its and size its of because 16 arein we another km, After monuments. pre-historic Altas, Pedras das Anta the and windmills to near the located adolmen, Masmorra, da is Anta Nearby rushes. or straw of made roofs conical and walls schist thick with dwelling of form old an constructions, circular see (9km) to can Mealha you adetour On village. the of middle the in right workshop have their Lançadeira in weavers The chimneys. decorated and floors threshing with schist, of made or whitewashed areeither which houses between go you there the of expertise the portrays museum local The free. run imagination your letting and romance for fun, having for water, and shade good trees, tall with place beautiful avery Fonte Férrea, to get you km, 22 After medronho to 4km is only It Algarve. the of interior the and coast the between roads to get we until north EN 396 heading the take we Querença leaving on Caldeirão do Serra the form hillswhich of sea the towards Continuing achurch. of shape the in acave Moors), (Churchthe of Mouros” dos “Igrejinha the and Salustreira of caves are the Nearby tradition. untouched of area afeel this give parapets and pots chimney decorated richly The occupations. different to represent costumes traditional wearing dolls rag as well as village, the in made the of people the of language sing-song sweet, the with echoes Festival) (Sausage Chouriças das Festa colourful The lessons! to tasty haveplace afew brandy is better than anywhere else, or at least this is the claim of those who distil the fruits. the distil who those of claim is the this at least or else, anywhere than is better brandy Pereiro Cachopo remembering that this region in the northeast of the Algarve, with its its with Algarve, the of northeast the in region this that remembering

Martinlongo Medronho brandy , still on the same road which winds between the cistus plants to plants cistus the between winds which road same the on , still Barranco do Velho do Barranco . The plateau where the village developed is beautiful, is beautiful, developed village the plateauwhere . The serra . One of the most popular sausages in the region is region the in sausages popular most the of . One , which was the crossing point of the the of point crossing the was , which Alcoutim Montes Novos Montes on the banks of the the of banks the on serra , where the the , where , and to get to get , and

Cachopo Legend of the Enchanted Moorish Maiden, a common theme throughout the Algarve, tells that the tells the that Algarve, the throughout theme acommon Maiden, Moorish Enchanted the of Legend the Alcoutim, In inviting. looks beach riverside the below, Down point. viewing excellent an as serves sometimes which castle, the of walls the from Guadiana the of waters the on gaze You your rest can come from lives that crossed a long time ago, and are now ofpart the family rather than mere neighbours. ties strongest the Nowadays wars. frontier earlier the and smuggling of times the from here held secrets the doorways. Had we more time to follow the route past water-mills and weirs as far as the dam, there there dam, the as far as weirs water-millsand past route the to follow time more we Had doorways. the beside work basket-makers the lanes, steep the In . de Ribeira the of mouth the as far as fishing, through going road, riverside We the take to on. move is time it then And figs. and almonds from made sweets local the of adessert with end and lampreys; of peppers) and tomatoes potatoes, with (stew a“caldeirada” or chicken country of stew) (bread-based “açorda” with this Following bread. home-made and olives with sausage, a spicy a“chouriça”, or cheese goat’s a with start out: to try menu a Here’s herbs. aromatic with flavoured east, north- the of cuisine typical the to resist easy be not will It maiden. Moorish ill-starred that over spell the of treasure and of guardian prodigy, what knows who hiding there, arestill they And again. to shoot started stubbornly but down, cut were trees The place. the hide that mists thick the of because success, without have tried people many imagination, popular of today, Even power is the sword. such or adagger only using solstice) summer to (close the João” S. “night of the on age, with worm-eaten holm-oaks, two beside place took which combat in defeated was amonster if worked treasure only the keep and spell the remove to charm agreat treasure. The guarded and castle, old the in enchanted was girl Saracen beautiful

Alcoutim Guerreiros do Rio do Guerreiros

Sausage and encompasses an area of salt-marshes, salt-marshes, area an of encompasses and in 1975createdin be Portugal to first the was reserve The flamingos. of clouds pink the or storks, of flight beautiful incredibly the You see also birds. can migratory for António Marim Castro of Salt-Marsh the of Reserve Nature The rushing. without done work of signs the all bear cane of made baskets the or Azinhal from bobbin-lace The 6km. than less of distance for head shall we But to see. much be would Almada de Ouro de Almada , with its museum about the art of of art the about museum its , with is one of the favourite places places favourite the of is one and and Vila Real de Santo Santo de Real Vila and then then and Azinhal , a 5 TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO 3 54 TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO the fields and the blue of the river. the of blue the and fields the of green the between in white unexpectedly sunlight, the in glistens it and methods, traditional using air. is gathered the in Salt and water, land the in the on living many creatures for habitat a tailor-made Nature Reserve oftheCastroNature and Marim Reserve Vila deSanto Real António Salt-marsh metres high, commands a fine view over over view afine commands high, metres 40 is over which lighthouse, the coast, the On white. and centre black in the from out radiating calçada, Portuguese magnificent in is paved –which Pombal de Marquês Praça the called –nowadays square royal former is the city old the of heart The between. in Guadiana the and opposite Ayamonte of town Spanish the having in Alcoutim resembles SantoAntónio de Real Vila Atlantic. the and Guadiana the of waters the between distance, the in shining Ayamonte of whiteness the with salt-pans, the and marsh the of beauty the to mention forgot it But song. popular a in is celebrated which caravels the board on look-out the of cry the like just Portugal” of sands and of “lands seen be can walls From their walls. of asystem by defended were hill, own its on each Marim, Castro of Castle the and Sebastião São of Fort The Algarve. the in towns oldest the to get we then And Vila Real de Santo António Santo de Real Vila Castro Marim Castro and and , one of of , one This is a land of delicacies: there are well-known dishes made from tuna like “estupeta”(tuna salad), salad), “estupeta”(tuna like tuna from made dishes arewell-known there delicacies: of is aland This permitted. is not them Catching carefully. treat it one, see you If extinct. becoming of isdanger in it because is protected It chameleon. the inhabitant: aspecial with pine-wood a Gordo, Monte of forest the is there beaches, magnificent the Behind Spain. neighbouring and Atlantic the Guadiana, River the of mouth the forests, pine nearby the to visit are the five hundred year old Main Church and the Parish Museum, with archaeological items archaeological with Museum, Parish the and Church Main old year hundred five arethe to visit places important and country, is afruit-growing This signs. the follow then and motorway, Infante do Moncarapacho Tavira the on island. beach marvellous the and gardens fine the city, old the of lanes the to visit stay alonger merits it that beautiful is so city of city the through We pass boat. by accessible Tavira de Cabanas shellfish. sautéed of plate tasty or a fish, grilled freshest the clams, succulent oysters, delicious savouring while Algarve, the in sunsets best the see place to the This is art. of religious collection afine and doorway 1794 in a has Church built Main was the and fortress The village. the of heart is the which origin, mediaeval of is acistern there square main the In centuries. over untouched remained has that a jewel scenery, wonderful by sea, surrounded the over out looking top acliff on perched is village atiny Cacela to it. dedicated especially atour on explore can we which paradise is atrue Ria the beaches, and salt-marshes Faro. islands, of west With the to peninsula Ancão the as far as stretches which begins Park Natural the is where This Formosa. Ria the EN 125 slower us toThe takes appreciated. properly be cannot surprise us by take that details delightful however, the road, tour. the afast On started we where Silves from 3km (70 junction km) to the motorway Infante do Via the take can you quickly, back to wish get you if is achoice: there At point this tart. almond cakes) and (love amor” de “bolinhos almonds) trimmed and sugar white, egg of (made only and clam) of open type (a “conquilhas” potatoes),notforgetting with (stew or a fillet), “espinheta” pressed (a“moxama” dried, Cacela Velha is to the north of the EN 125: take the turn-off near Fuzeta, which leads to the Via Via the leads to which near Fuzeta, EN 125: the of turn-off the take north is to the (6 km to the east) is a fishing village with a magnificent beach which is only only is which beach magnificent a with village is afishing east) to (6 the km au naturel au Tavira Cacela Velha Cacela . In terms of sweets, there are many different ones to savour: “carriços”,savour: to ones aremany different there sweets, of terms . In on the River Gilão, with its pointed roofs and many churches. The The many churches. and roofs pointed its with Gilão, River the on

Cacela Velha (12 km), a very old village built on top of a cliff bordering bordering acliff top of on (12 built village old km), avery

TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO 55 56 TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO Algarve of the beaches to the Algarve of the the of Algarve to the beaches the of Algarve the from landscape, adiverse such up lighting many shades, so has sunset the where else anywhere find to difficult be would It below. plain Faro the in and out spread Olhão of cities the with us, of front in unfolds day,clear coastline the 411 a On level. sea above metres Figo, Monte or Miguel S. de Cerro the towards turn pottery, the at alook having after and town the from exit northern At the art. ethnographic and numismatic piec precious and layer of stone paving. From modest pieces of stone, masterpieces are created which embellish the the embellish which arecreated masterpieces stone, of pieces From modest paving. stone of layer to get we the of slopes the along leads it 7 km; for road this on Continue on. EM520-2straight the keep with junction at the and west, We head now with baths and fine mosaics, as well as the ruins of a 4th century Christian villa, patrician’s agrand A.D.), (2ndbasilica century Milreu of ruins Roman arethe away built kilometre one than Less on the Roman temple. (1757-1822). Canova Antonio sculptor Italian the by awork of acopy ashell, on Graces) (Three the of Graças Três triptych the as such statues, interesting and gardens fine by surrounded building 18th is century asumptuous It Algarve. the in architecture romantic of example only the at Estói, Palace the to minutes few in a us takes which is aturn-off there Moncarapacho in crossroads main At the Santa Bárbara de Nexe de Bárbara Santa es of religious, religious, of es . Here the traditional occupation is that of the “calceteiro”, the of is that the occupation traditional the . Here barrocal serra , which are like an extended viewing point, and then then and point, viewing extended an arelike , which , with the , with barrocal in between. between. in

Tavira Cabanas de Tavira

Paderne Castle more. to us back take will and points viewing of anumber has stretch this on EN 269, the then and which towards 524 EM the take From to , you. fauna and flora region’s the of secrets the of some reveal will which and bridge mediaeval the over you takes which castle the area around the in walk kilometre is afour There windmill. the than device older iseven an water-mill the Quarteira: de Ribeira the on aweir and water-mill a see can you there, up From flag. national the on appear that those of is one castle its because Portugal of history the in feature always will that is aplace This stop. to 8km just is now It seen. be should which cross) the aresights of (arch “arco cruzeiro” stone do carved the and chapel springs). The water”, underground i.e. “eyes of meaning (literally água” de “olhos for Italian the of is acorruption to get Loulé, EN 270, through passing “calçada”. the is on It Portuguese typical the in paved cities, numerous of squares Boliqueime . Apparently, the name name the . Apparently, Paderne Silves , our next next , our t hat we once once

Silves

TOUR BEYOND THE BARLAVENTO 57 TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 58 CONTENTS OFTOURSTHECENTRALALGARVE beaches ofMonteGordo. Palace ofEstói,themonumentsTaviraandfine able toputtogetheraphotoalbumaftervisitingthe other partsoftheAlgarve.Byend,wewillbe for exploringroutesonthecoastandinhillsof The TourbeyondtheCentralAlgarvecontainsideas world oftheRiaFormosaNaturalParktous. sea andtofishing.Thistourwillopenupthewonderful second ingrainedwithsunandsalt,foreverlinkedtothe Olhão, thefirstwithitshousesofgreatantiquity, There arealsocontrastsbetweenthecitiesofFaroand islands withtheirshiftingsandsandfabulousbeaches. of thecontrastsbetweenitsexpanseswaterand The TouroftheRiaFormosaattractsvisitorsbecause other side of the islands. But everything starts in Loulé. a glimpseoftheRiaFormosaandbeacheson craftspeople. Wewillsavourtraditionalsausages,get babbling ofthestreamsanddiscoverskills plants andcarobtrees,wherewewillhearthe hills oftheserra,betweenthymeandlavender The TouroftheCaldeirãotakesustoundulating heralds anewpanorama. of thebarrocalinflower,whereeverycurveroad picturesque houses,passingthroughthecountryside beaches tothetraditionalvillageofAltewithits cosmopolitan cityofAlbufeirawithitsmagnificent through differentaspectsoftheAlgarve,from The TouroftheVillagesisawonderfuljourney SA GRES AL JEZUR LA GOS PORTIM ÃO SIL VES ARM DE PÊRA DE AÇ ÃO ALBUFEIR 1 P ADERNE 78 68 60 92 P. A DO LA QUINT SALIR AL L OULÉ Vila Real de Santo António » Estói » Faro » Olhão » Tavira » Cacela Velha » » Boliqueime » Paderne » Silves » Lagoa » Carvoeiro » Catarina da Fonte do Bispo » São Brás de Alportel » Loulé Vila Real de Santo António » Castro Marim » Santa +/- TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE Armona » Ilha do Farol » Ilha da Deserta (Barreta) » Faro Moncarapacho » Quelfes » Olhão » Ilha da Culatra » Ilha da do Lago » Vale do Lobo » Santa Bárbara de Nexe » Estói » Faro » S. João da Venda » S. Lourenço » » Quinta +/- TOUR OFTHERIAFORMOSA Miguel »SantaBárbaradeNexeLoulé » Pedrasd’elReiFuzetaMoncarapachoCerrodeSão Fonte doBispo»MalhãoSantoEstêvãoLuzdeTavira » QuerençaS.BrásdeAlportelSantaCatarinada Loulé »TôrFontedaBenémolaSalirRochaPena +/- TOUR OFTHECALDEIRÃO Oura »GaléAlbufeira » AlteEspargalBoliqueimeVilamouraMaritenda Albufeira »MontechoroFerreirasPurgatórioPaderne +/- TOUR OFTHEVILLAGES TE 102 km 123 km 98 km 260 km GO A DO ALPORTEL S OBRÁS F ARO OLH ÃO TA AL VIR C A OUTIM MARIM CASTRO ANT DE SANT VILA REAL ÓNIO O again to these different parts of the Algarve. the of parts different to these again and again back coming like feel will you end, the In filled. be will Algarve the in holidays is how this next: hillsthe the from day, one sea sweets and the from delicacies great emotions, delights, Little to gateway Faro’sthe Formosa. Ria to city, the old Vila, Arco da the in nest their from fly they as storks of flight magnificent the to follow able We be will Gilão. river the of banks the along sides, sloping four with Tavira of constructed roofs pointed the discover “Algarvios”, will we other from Olhão of people accent the of the to distinguish able We be will flavours. unusual of range awide have enjoyed will to tell, and many stories memories, unforgettable of have acollection will we end the By people. interesting and music of full nights and shops cosmopolitan centreswith international also but to fishermen, home arestill which cities Algarve: Tour this Central the during of Algarve the areas of many other discovering We be will Albufeira. of beaches the by waters gentle into dive the or Formosa, Ria the of canals the weave between islands, the off waters clear into dive the serra, the hillsof the E xplore routes along the coastal strip and through through and strip coastal the along routes xplore

TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 59 TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 60 Albufeira A world of contrasts in one small corner of the Algarve. delights to discover intheBarrocal.culinary ploughed landscape. Andthere areof also plenty terraces, peoplewithlinedfaces, toiling intheancient On theway, there ofcolouronthistour of isariot to bespoiled. of Portuguesevillageswhichhave notbeenallowed thesearefreshness thepleasures ofabundantwater: at Fonte Pequena; andsoulinto the we candive heart see linesofhousesinAlte, we willtravel to seeswans the windsandrebuilt by men.From theroad, we can witnessed time, thecastlewallsinPaderne, wornby by themasses,warmed we willmove to onethathas From thatiscooledby theseaand theAlgarve roads. whitewashed houses, ancientboulders, andoldtar and lives of incontrast,there isanotherAlgarve, ofpeople, thefreneticBeside landscapes Algarve, heads, atnight. silvery, above turning theserendipityofwandering different blues;andthenotherballsoffire, twinkling, ball offire hanging there, stillundecidedbetween spentglancingateachotherwiththe late afternoons lanes redolent ofpeopleandlunchesgrilled fish; heatofadifferent andbeside Algarve; bikini-clad butalongsidethe landscape. More to thenorth, housesand thecistus-filled themodern between Y ou blinkyour eyes andsuddenlyyou find yourself

TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 61 6 TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 2 6 TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 3 +/- 64 TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 98km moment to ride the waves again and and again waves the to ride moment the for lie,waiting boats the where Pescadores, dos Praia the and beach Luísa Maria the surround cliffs The begins. tour this is where which Albufeira, of city the of atour for point starting excellent an is point viewing Bandeira Pau da The beaches. finest to the next trees, pine the of freshness the by shaded ease, of alife for and leisure for built villages, new see will we then And panorama. new a heralds road the in curve every where the of countryside the through passing houses, picturesque of village traditional to the Albufeira of city cosmopolitan the from Algarve, the of contrasts the through journey The Tour Villages the of , with its magnificent beaches beaches magnificent its , with barrocal is a wonderful is awonderful Alte , in flower,, in , with its its , with

Albufeira, Church of São Sebastião the Moors. the from 1249, Christians the by retaken successfully was it that in attempt second at the only easy. not was It was the of Kingdom into the Buhera Al of integration The there. equipment fishing their up set they and Baltum, as known was which place the liked Romans the them, Before (fortress). Buhera Al it called istheir why which position invincible an peninsula, like a almost is which acliff Vila, da Cerro the top of the on Arabs the by built was Albufeira Barros. Samora painter the by created piece altar at the to have alook inside going worth is well It bell-tower. imposing (18th its with century), Church Main to the get we lanes, steep Along entertainment. and life with buzzes town commercial Nearby, the scene. acolourful creating

Albufeira, view from the Miradouro do Pau da Bandeira triumphal arch and the apse from the 15th building. the gothic from apse the century arch and triumphal the doorway, the retains it and mosque Arab old the replaced chapel Misericórdia the part, its For precious. areso architecture, popular by inspired design the 18th with century, the from dating Sant’Ana of both Church the and doorway side Manueline 16th its kept century which Sebastião São of Church isthe why That buildings. the all 1755 practically The destroyed earthquake All that remains of the castle walls is a defence tower at the North Gate, which is used as are as is used Gate, which North tower at the is adefence walls castle the of remains that All streets to see the decorated chimneys, the the chimneys, decorated the to see streets around walk is apleasant there and inviting, arevery Fonte Pequena and Alte to get we Caldeirão, do Serra the to form up rise gradually hillswhich the Between forms. unusual and colours exuberant with orchids, wild beautiful conceal around all fields the because particular in walking, for ideal it makes location the of freshness The operation. in milling of way traditional the keep still hill the of foot at the weir the and water-mill The preserved. cobblestones old the of part with bridge Roman intact is an there Nearby origin. Arab is of which . The cool waters at Fonte Grande at Fonte Grande waters cool . The the village village the

Albufeira Quarteira river, stands the , Paderne, of castle the river, stands Quarteira the runs spur, which around arocky top of On us. welcoming to be seems that 18th the century from dating chimney decorated isinteresting an There countryside. surrounding the of background the against out standing houses white its with as 270 far as travel we EN the on and west, turn will we (Purgatory) of name strange the by goes that village the In water-wheels. and windmills see can we 395, EM which from winding the take we There terraces. roof and parapets chimneys, of features typical have the still houses the of to way the all stretching houses of groups friendly small, with landscape, of sort different avery in areback we minutes, afew just In heard. be can world the in languages the all almost areas, sitting outdoor numerous the In outlets. shopping of range is awide there and place of pride take activities leisure where a hill, us to leads avenue A broad , 5 km north of Albufeira, where some some where Albufeira, of north , 5km Paderne Montechoro , on a gentle hill hill agentle , on Purgatório staurant. , on , on

Alte

TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 65 TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 66 and almond-trees until we get to get we until almond-trees and A cou guarded. jealously secrets, family aresweet recipes whose cakes to buy place is aperfect Alte swallowed. areoften words of ends the where serra accent the in the of because Alte, mainly became Alto and parish the Churchin Main the became this time, In achurch! build Ishall Here (Halt!) Alto! servants: to her order gave the indignantly who land-owner the met they when home way their on already were faithful The noblewoman. the for wait not did cleric the waiting, continual day, the one of tired Until parish. whole the in chapel only the in present was she when mass celebrating only priest to the accustomed become Freixo in had Verde, she land and owned who lady respected and arich once was There village. the of name the of the is behind woman Another to Palestine. crusade eighth the from husband her of return safe the 13th for the of thanks in century, end Alte, at the of lord second Ribadeneyra, da Mendes Garcia of wife Bona, Dona by founded was church original The Church. Main to up the parapets, coloured ntry r ntry oad at the northern exit of the village takes us into countryside with esparto grass, fig-trees fig-trees grass, esparto with us into countryside takes village the of exit northern at the oad handicrafts

legend

Nave Cordeiros dos

about the origin origin the about , to try the the , to try Boliqueime After about ten kilometres on the EN 270, the on an ten kilometres about After identity. its of proud Algarve, Algibre de The The centre. holiday this of gardens well-tended the and courses golf between sea, to the get we and to Vilamoura, EN signposted 125the road the until east to the abeautiful around Vilamoura, later became what was farm Quarteira The 1297. in D. Diniz King the from agift as it received who Mecham, Martim Esquire, Quarteira famous to the belonged farms best the of One community. prosperous a get you and sweet, and juicy oranges, magnificent to Add these area. this from carobs and almonds figs, best the to import earliest the amongst were the of beginning Boliqueime in arrive we road, of stretch beautiful especially Environmental Park Environmental , followed by by , followed , impressive glimpses of an unspoiled unspoiled an of glimpses , impressive a luxurious tourist complex built built complex tourist aluxurious

on the slopes of a small hill, at the at the hill, asmall of slopes the on barrocal marina Espargal . Merchants from Flanders Flanders from . Merchants . We only have to follow have to. We follow only in Vilamoura is an asset is asset an Vilamoura in

and finally finally and Ribeira Ribeira

Alte, Fonte Grande For something different, the museum and Cerro da Vila Vila da Cerro and museum the different, something For observed. be can birds of species ahundred than more where system, eco- this of stars arethe gallinule purple the and bittern The landscape. and ecology of both terms in Balaia Água de Olhos at beach near again ENWe 125 to south the have to head return then and waters. warm their with the in luck your try and to to go shows world, the over all from dishes to savour quality, international of stores in go shopping to possible also offer,it is on but activities outdoor of range is awhole there Vilamoura, In that this delightful place has always drawn humans to it. fact to the attesting villa, Roman a1stthrough century journey imaginary an visitors siteoffer archaeological Meanwhile, there is a wide range of restaurants where you can sample the local the sample can you where restaurants of range is awide there Meanwhile, terraces. the on dance and dinner, music to to the listen after there return could you Or sunset. the water, the in enjoying almost feet your with there sit and terrace café or arestaurant out to chance seek the or sea, turquoise-blue Rafael São to Falésia east the in da from Praia stretch which cliffs, colourful between nestling beaches, of aseries of is part Oura and in Europe, beaches finest the of some has Algarve The Albufeira, São Rafael beach

Casino , until we get to get we , until Aldeia das Açoteias das Aldeia

. Or else, simply enjoy the spacious beaches beaches spacious the enjoy simply else, . Or Maritenda and Baleeira in between. You will not be able to resist the call of the fine sand and the the and sand fine the of call the to resist able You be not will between. in Baleeira and , the beaches at Praia Maria Luísa and Luísa Maria at Praia beaches the

Galé , to reach the marvels of the the of marvels , to the reach Oura , in the west, with west, the , in . , the unspoilt beauty of of beauty unspoilt , the

Castelo , the exclusive beaches of and and Coelha da Praia of beaches exclusive , the

cuisine nightlife in Albufeira. in nightlife buzzing intodive the is to remains that all then, And tasty. very arevery, and here, find also can you which dishes grilled to the are alternatives these tomato sauce: a with sardines oregano, with cooked mackerel coriander, and leaf bay with seasoned clam) of (a kind “conquilhas” with . Soup made made . Soup

Vilamoura, Environmental Park

TOUR OF THE VILLAGES CENTRO 67 TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 68 Santa Catarina Fonte do Bispo - Roofing tiles. like Loulélike andSãoBrásdeAlportel. from theheat.Andstreets, andlife, incitiesandtowns lying areas whohave spawned numerous shelters it withoutever having many it.So peopleinthe low- the houses, thepeoplewhosought stillinebriating plateau. Butthesmellofseaisalready permeating outawide, youthe cork-oaks, golden canstillmake year-round thecistusand summersboil:between Alentejo onthissideoftheCaldeirão, where the Butthere arecosmopolitan Algarve. stillbitsofthe become rock stretch out,asifcaressing theother, thathave arms bustle neartheocean,maternal There, inarealm ofsolitude, farfrom thehustleand where nature remains unspoilt. way cutthey throughbabble asthey thegreen fields; at usfrom tops; thechimney where thestreams which traverse it,aplacewhere peerdown thestorks T here is also an Algarve upabovehere themajorroads isalsoanAlgarve

TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 69 TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 70

TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 71 +/- 7 123km TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 2 done by women and an age-old skill. The palm leaves leaves palm The skill. age-old an and women by done is work which leaves, palm of made baskets and are hats There villages. nearby the in made items clay, selling or or of copper pieces working artisans find still can you walls, the around shops the In Gallery. Art Municipal the as Santo Convent functions centre, Espírito the city In the minaret. aMuslim from adapted was bell-tower (13th whose and style century) Gothic the in Church, Main the visit Wealso can settlement. to the through way the was gate which old the arch of the and a well is there today. courtyard the In evidence in still towers brickwork three 13th with the and in rebuilt century but origin Arab of Walls, Castle stop the is at first Our Loulé in starts everything But islands. the of side other the on the of aglimpse get and sausages, traditional We savour will craftspeople. the of skills the discover and streams the of babbling the hear can we where trees, carob and plants The Tour Caldeirão the of . Ria Formosa Ria takes us to the rolling hills of the serra, between thyme and lavender lavender and thyme between serra, the hillsof rolling us to the takes , and the beaches beaches the , and Loulé

Loulé, Castle was extracted was left by the sea some 300 million years ago. The air in the mines is therapeutic for for is therapeutic mines the in air The ago. years million 300 some sea the by left was extracted was which salt The 1200 cover area an of and 350 deep hectares. and 230 metres arebetween galleries into the descent The carobs. and almonds figs, packing for used were leaves palm from made baskets the time, one At areneeded. plaits thin of hair, 6metres ahat 5or for and plaiting for as way same the in are worked be able to resist a little detour to detour alittle to resist able be Salir, towards not will we out going road the On wealth. natural its of because Site is aClassified lavender. This and thyme rosemary, alongside grow which oleanders and poplars trees, willow and ash by of park ERFrom 524 the natural the road, sheep cheeses, or homemade sausages are sausages homemade or cheeses, sheep and Goat soup. “mountain” or crackling, pork with (maize porridge) are“xarém” to try things local The wisdom”, of arevisible. “wall the as locals to the known walls, the of part and towers (12th origin the Arab and areof century) parts but Celts, to the back going areremains there castle, the In time. in arelost origins whose and serra the in arrive we Soon terraces. in planted hillsides the valley, with the filling trees almond of fields arehuge There Loulé, Convent of Espírito Santo cuisine

Salir is rich and original, and some some and original, and is rich salt mines, salt a village on the edge of of edge the on avillage Nave Barão do

located right in the middle of Loulé, is very interesting. The The interesting. is very Loulé, of middle the in right located Fonte da Benémola Fonte da an old Roman bridge. Roman old an to get we Soon procession. ajoyous with Carnival, of celebration is its Algarve, the in famous most the indeed famous, Very east. the in river Guadiana the as far as west to the vicentina costa the from stretches which serra, Barrocal the as area known the in is located Loulé lines. Moorish its with market the around centre organised commercial is alively and Algarve the of middle isthe in Loulé cloths. white waving and cries loud uttering by her greet crowd enthusiastic the while slope, steep the up litter heavy the carry menfolk The years. 400 over for time at Easter held been has which country, the of south the in processions biggest the of one with saint patron their honour people Local point. viewing excellent an is also which ahill on the of sanctuary the EN 270 Boliqueime, the for Loulé Where leaves illnesses. respiratory . , the area between the coast and the hills of the the hillsof the and coast the area between , the Tôr Sovereign Mother Sovereign a little village with narrow streets and and streets narrow with village alittle , is on the right hand side surrounded surrounded side hand right the , is on , can be seen, perched perched seen, be , can Tôr 7 TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 3 TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 74 that they took refuge here at here refuge took they that Moors). the of (Cavern Mouros dos Algar do Gruta is the nearby and Age Iron the from probably constructions ancient two Pena”, da are “Rocha there the top of At the dreams. of landscape this through walk a for go you that suggest we area, at the look have acloser order to In there. identified been have already bird of 122 and species species plant 390 barrocal. the of beauties the of showcase a colourful paradise: small Salir, is another there of ToThursday. north the Ascension on place takes always which procession ethnographic interesting an with paganism, and religion Cob), of Maize acombination the of (Festival Espiga” da Salir to to know get time A good almonds. and honey, figs with aremade which sweets, the for accompaniment ideal is the brandy “medronho” starte as perfect bus and industrialists former the of houses grand the and style, architectural popular the in built houses the us in of front in town, the in arrive we As Alportel de Brás S.Romão through pass we south, heading village leave the we as signposts the Following dishes. local the of some out to try opportunity aunique there, courtyard the December in and doorway Manueline a fine the square, main the In views. beautiful and charm of is full village that say folk older The EN 124 the to on Querença. back to south We get to head Salir have to return then and reconquest. Christian the of time the inessmen of the cork trade, with their façades clad in tiles, carved stonework and wrought-iron wrought-iron and stonework carved tiles, in clad façades their with trade, cork the of inessmen is during the “Festa “Festa the is during Rocha da Pena da Rocha , with a line of houses by the roadside in the tradition of the rural Algarve, until we get to get we until Algarve, rural the of tradition the in roadside the by houses of aline , with Tradition rs while the the while rs . has it it has Querença Main Church Church Main is means affection, love, good will. Located near to two streams, the the streams, two near to Located will. good love, affection, means Salir of Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Our Lady of the Assumption) has has Assumption) the of Lady (Our Assunção da Senhora Nossa of historical centre historical Festa das Chouriças das Festa , there are whitewashed, single-storey single-storey arewhitewashed, , there , (Sausage Festival) is held in the the in is held Festival) , (Sausage Porto Nobre and and Nobre Porto S. S.

“Festa da Espiga” (Festival of the Maize Cob) fine bandstand, which is joined to the the to joined is which bandstand, fine its with “Verbena”, as known Garden Episcopal is the door, there Next Church. Main the of courtyard the from serra the of hills up the to view is afine There verandas. of Costumes of the Algarve which relives relives which Algarve the of Costumes of Museum Ethnographic the and Bentes António Cultura da Casa the houses which palace into go We the then region. the climate in pleasant to the owing holidays, their to spend Algarve the of Bishops the for centuries 17th the 18th and between built palace São Brásbarber São deAlportel,

São Brás de Alportel On the same road, we get to get we road, same the On walls. limewashed the of white the in stone of have pieces houses storey sin the and flourish, trees orange and almond around, all orchards the In baked. are tiles roofing Moorish and tiles the where ovens the in burning shells air, almond the on the or oaks holm- of is asmell There centuries. for there have been who makers tile the Bispo do We to get life. of pleasures simple the of full and slowly passes time where scenes bucolic of pictures to across come is easy it town, this In is distilled. brandy “medronho” strong the fruits, red the From flowers. white of clusters in arecovered they ripens, fruit year’s previous the as time same at the autumn, the In trees. small spontaneous beautiful shade, their in growing trees strawberry the with majestically, there stand oaks cork The champagnes. famous most the of corks the for is used and world, the in best the of is one Alportel de Brás The time. at threshing floors threshing the on “corridinho” to the dance used they when days the Festa Festival) (Sausage dasChouriças on the EN 270, the on of search in Santa Catarina da Fonte da Catarina Santa cork from São São from Malhão gle-

TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 75 TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 76 The site is on the edge of the the of edge the site is on The (1st B.C.). and century Caesar Julius of time at the stood Balsa of city Roman ancient the where are, and Antas das Torre Quinta de and Ares de Quinta of estates the where waters crystal-clear warm, of EN 125 the We take village will the near until Algarve. the in finest the of is one style Manueline the in doorway side The parapets. these of one with 16th the redecorated dateswas from century, which Church, Main the of façade The Nouveau. Art of influence the showing real masterpieces parapets, decorated with In sea. the glimpse already can we roads the on bends towards turn and Santa Catarina da Fonte do Bispo, tile makers Santa Catarina Santo Estêvão Santo Ria Formosa Ria , which emerges from between orange groves, and from some of the the of some from and groves, orange between from emerges , which and extremely important archaeological finds were made made were finds archaeological important extremely and Pedras del Rei del Pedras Luz de Tavira de Luz and the beach beach the and people are proud of their houses houses their of are proud people Praia do Barril do Praia , with its its , with

Medronho entertainment. of in terms possibilities many other and marina Vilamoura the Casino, the find can you down, lower bit a just municipality, same the within to And life. nights the Culture) of brings (House Cultura da Casa the by organised Festival July, Jazz In the menus. their on dishes have traditional area which surrounding and city the in many restaurants the of one out to seek time in Loulé, in back be We soon will communities. local the of friendliness the and quiet of search in settled has community foreign a large where places pleasant arequiet, These lines. original their losing without but homes, holiday into imposing turned have been houses rural the many of and point viewing natural of area is this akind of whole The Malhão ridge, from where you can get a glimpse of We through go style. simple avery in built and hill the in buried almost Chapel, to the leads which side northern the on road winding small the We take will north. to the Caldeirão do Serra the hillsof rolling the and south, the in to SantoAntónio Albufeira de Real Vila to up the going worth is well It museum. Barril Beach Cerro de S.Miguel de Cerro Estói

Azinhal/ Amendoeira Azinhal/ , and finally we get to (hill), from where you get a view from from aview get you where from (hill),

Santa Bárbara de Nexe

a quiet spot near the the near spot a quiet pottery and the parish parish the and pottery at the have alook can you there, once and Moncarapacho to distance ashort is only It see. can eye the as far as sand with dreams, of beach to shore, a far us to the takes trip boat short off to turn Alfandanga 125 reaching on and EN to the We back go Lisbon. in Museum Archaeological the in housed now here, Fuzeta , we , we , . A

View from the Cerro de São Miguel (Hill) .

TOUR OF THE CALDEIRÃO CENTRO 77 TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 78 Quinta do Lago - Ria Formosa the Ria Formosa.the Ria of birds, intheheart we willget ourfilloftheAlgarve, menand thelandandsea,between Between of thewalk. inthe flatlandscapeonthe rest shade whichislacking the green Ludo, ofnearby aswe goinsearch ofthe once againforgotten by people, we shallbreathe in We ofQuintadoLago, shallenjoy thecomforts but, ofclay andoilsinSãoLourenço.arts The timelesswhite housesinMoncarapacho, andthe oftheAlgarve. aspects Within we will discover thepresent-day Algarve, other flowers whichseem to have withstood thecenturies. palace inEstoi, whichissurrounded by plantsand ofOssónobato theeven olderMilreu,city to the fromOn land, theold time-travellers: we willbelike and nibbleothermolluscs. wherefishermen, we willalsotaste deliciousclams And later, we willsavour theminthelandof deduce whichfishare swimmingaround theislands. fishing birds whichspendthesummerthere, we can sea withouttouching either. watching theAfrican By and theproud thelandand flyingbetween stork lifelook attheeveryday oftheblack-headed seagull, birds. We we canhave willenjoy QuintadoMarim, a We islands, flyasifinadream like thebarrier between to anarea ofgreat beauty. thecities, between instead and turn dual carriageway birds. We of ourbacksontheten-kilometres willturn F rom Faro to Olhãopassingthrough aparadiseof

TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 79 TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 80

TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 81 +/- 8 102km TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 2 one of the highlights amongst the permanent exhibitions being the Islamic room. Islamic the being exhibitions permanent the amongst highlights the of one with is housed, Museum Archaeological D. Henrique Infante the is where This cloisters. graceful its with Assumption) the of Lady (Our Assunção de Senhora Convent Nossa us to of the leads lane A narrow proportions. elegant of square creates aspacious buildings of group this and hall, town is the away 1755 distance the after Ashort straight earthquake. rebuilt aspect, imposing but lines sober its 18th the with century, from dating Palace Bishop’s is the there front, In city. the over view afine (12th commands atower which building with aGothic century) Cathedral, to up the walk Palace, and Governor’s the near located wall, the gates in the of one Arco Vila, da You the through in go to visit. place akey this making heritage, cultural of examples important most its of some – contains a17th by the wall, Surrounded century located. was Ossónoba legendary the where was this that argue who arepeople there but areunknown, origins size”. exact similar of Its those amongst world the in best “the to it be considered Rasis geographer Arab The diminished. not has importance its Peninsula, Iberian the of south the in on became it when atime period, Roman the since and centuries, the Over Formosa. Ria the of islands the of dunes of cordon the by 16th the since protected century, Algarve the of capital the Faro been has appearance. sober and bright its of because people attracts city the this despite but action, military and pirates by sackings fires, earthquakes, numerous by marked was city the of history The personality. adistinct and style own its with origins, ancient of city sizeable is tour the for point starting The Park Natural the of world wonderful the up open will this tour And to fishing. and sea to the linked ever for salt, sunand with ingrained second the great antiquity, of of cities the between contrasts arealso There beaches. fabulous and sands shifting their with islands the and water of expanses its between contrasts the of because visitors The Faro e Tour Formosa Ria the of of the most important urban centres urban important most the of and and Olhão . , the first with its houses houses its with first , the Ria Formosa Formosa Ria Faro

attracts attracts , a Vila Adentro Vila – the oldest part of the city centre of Faro centre of city the of part oldest –the

Ria Formosa following the signposts we get to get we signposts the following Venda da João S. leave Faro we Formosa, Ria the of channel main the through to get you Faro de which Praia the beach, to visit example for to return, apromise made Having shops. cosmopolitan areas and sitting outside arelively there where nearby, precinct pedestrian the in and António Santo de Rua the in seen be can they capital: Algarve the of architecture the define that details are the streets narrow the and arches locals),to the the roofs (tesoura) “scissor” as (known sides sloping four with roofs their with houses, whitewashed The country. the in Chapel Ossuary important most the Evora, after has, which Carmo of Church the being important most the of one with galleries, and museums palaces, old churches, in is rich city The harbour. the and Ria the reach we west, to the Nova Porta From the Tourism into and aHotel School. turned been has name same aconvent the by where Francisco, S. de Largo us to the leads wall, Arch),gate the in eastern (Rest the Arco Repouso do The century tiles, and has a gilt carved altar on the inside inside the on altar carved agilt has and tiles, century 17th in covered is church completely small whose Faro –Castle Walls heading east on the EN 125, the on east through heading go and after a short distance distance a short after and S.Lourenço ,

Faro, Convent of Nossa Senhora da Assunção 8 TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 3 TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 84 this large village is the “Jardim” is the village large this in jewel the doubt, Without in barrocal Algarve into the crossing and serra the hillsof to up the way Nexe de Bárbara Santa th cr 125 north, head and Vendada through return we When landscape. into the integrated carefully yet and destinations Lobo Vale de and Vale Garrão through detour asmall making by to Almancil We return can cuisine! of terms in to enjoy plenty huge the on attractions arenumerous There with sailing, to horse-riding from offer areon sport of types all almost Here, sun. setting the of light the by or at daybreak especially here, enjoyed to be beauty natural rare of aremoments There lakes. freshwater wide and woods pine flowers, of profusion the birds, of hundreds of appreciation the to encourage designed are which walks the to enjoy order in coast to the through of roundabouts famous the We pass Algarve. the in developments tourist luxurious most the of Almancil Grass. Günter by works including artists, contemporary by exhibitions permanent with culture, of oasis Centre is an Cultural Lourenço S. The panels. figurative eight with rough rough Estói Quinta do Lago do Quinta golf , cosmopolitan tourist tourist , cosmopolitan . The next stop will be be will stop next .The . Esteval taking pride of place. place. of pride taking is the gateway to some to gateway some is the

we will leave the EN leave the will we beaches and heading for for heading and

as we go go we as ossing ossing and and S. João João S. , half , half

S. Lourenço Cultural Centre Church of São Lourenço Faro Beach is a sumptuous 18th century 18this century asumptuous complex This interest. public of building as a classified palace, and garden to the given name is the (Garden) which Patrician’s villa, where we can find find can we where Patrician’s villa, Roman a grand, of remains A.D.), Ruins Milreu arethe away kilometre One ball. alively, popular and held is apicnic which around are burnt, rosemary perfumed of bunches and arelit bonfires large There, coast. the near Ludo, to do Pinhal village the from goes procession the and aredecorated horses and carts The ritual. interesting an includes muleteers, the of era the in began which time, at Easter pine-cone) the of (festival Pinha da Festa the of tradition The blossom. arein around all almond-trees of groves the when is magnificent it Palace: the of that than higher alevel on bell-tower, its top of the from view adelightful commands style, popular the in buildings by is surrounded centuries), which (16th Church Parish The 17th and period. Romantic the of exemplars best the of one construction, , (2nd century , (2nd century

Ruins of Milreu Vale do Lobo beach an enlargement of the original Gothic chapel. The Parish Parish The chapel. Gothic original the of enlargement an 15th main the is and church village, the century in houses century 20th early and 19th of century areanumber There Algarve. the of souvenir a to find place is ideal an This pieces. local typical creating Mo hedge arepomegranate There away. 9km is only it and Estói, to road The Centre. Interpretation an in found be can complex the about Full temple. information aRoman on built basilica, Christian century a4th of ruins the and mosaics colourful with baths ncarapacho Pottery, a family business of of business afamily Pottery, ncarapacho Moncarapacho is next to the church square in in square church to the is next s to be seen as far as the the as far as seen s to be craftspeople craftspeople

Palace of Estoi

TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 85 TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 86 goes back to the 15th and 16th centuries. In “Logar de Olhão”, as it was known, there was an abundant abundant an was there 15th to Olhão”, known, the de was back it as “Logar goes In 16th and centuries. “Olhão” name the of origin The corners. interesting discovering streets little and lanes of labyrinth the and alleys the through to walk time you to give ahurry, in visited be not should which is aplace Olhão city. “cubist” the of epithet the it earned which cubes white of apatchwork minarets, is Miguel S. de Cerro the top of the from seen be can that cities attractive most the of One Algarve. the of whole the in uprising the for point starting the was which abattle in defeated were troops Napoleonic 1808, in where and times of anumber rebuilt been has which origin, Roman of a bridge is there Nearby seen. be still can chimneys decorated and walls whitewashed with houses church, the around streets the in where, village the around growing vines the and trees fig the of green the enjoy through quickly Passing seen. be can Algarve the in views beautiful most the of one where from level, sea above metres Miguel) S. de (Barranco S.Miguel top of to the 6km is only It set. nativity Neapolitan 45-piece century, a17th being attraction main the centuries, 16th the from to 18th imagery religious of collection avaluable ethnography, local of pieces and items archaeological of collection to interesting an addition in contains, Chapel, Santo Espírito to the annex an Museum, Quelfes Cerro de de Cerro , we can can , we , 411 Olhão , with its houses with roof terraces, and its its and terraces, roof with houses its , with

View of the Cerro de São Miguel Pottery Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Soledade. da Senhora Nossa of Chapel the building, brickwork first the built century, the in who, fishermen 17th same the was It huts”). thatched some only were there where made, was church this people, this of fishermen the of expense (At the palhotas” umas haviam só que em templo este fez se povo deste mar do homens “À that dos custa façade 1695 its on declares dated Church Main centre, the city old the Near senses. the for adelight tastes, and smells colours, of is adisplay It evening. the in nightlife lively for setting is the then day and by function traditional its fulfils which Market, c the being highlights the of one with terraces, café and restaurant and gardens by is refreshed that “Ria”, the near area an avenue waterfront the on end should sea the of city to the visit The sun”. with and salt with ingrained “a as it city described Brandão Raul writer The there. settled who fishermen attracted this and supply water olourful atmosphe olourful re of the Municipal Municipal the re of

Sardines Olhão

TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 87 TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 88 festival. Sweets are also a are also Sweets festival. own its with honoured is it August, yearin every that, world the of part this in important so is Shellfish expertise. with prepared fishermen, of food the is this manyin versions; “cataplanas” famous the and beans, broad with cuttlefish clams, razor with rice eel, or dog-fish with made stews style, Olhão squid clam),of stuffed atype with porridge maize of (a kind conquilhas” com “xarém Olhão: of gastronomy the in a part play seafood of types All flavour. unforgettable an way, with asimple in but prepared table, to your cuisine representing –dishes appetizers traditional trying for –aplace petiscos” de a“casa or restaurant asimple in sometimes city, the Throughout work. wrought-iron and verandas with tiles, in clad façades aregrand there avenues, and streets other In sea. the watching for points look-out fish, of drying the for other, each of terraces top on piled cubes Olhão: of houses traditional the over panorama impressive is an there Church, Main From the tower of the the tower of the

will be brought brought be will traditional traditional

Olhão Market Olhão Market

Ria Formosa are made are made which bêbedas”, “Bolachas temptation. a good way to round off a delicious delicious a off to way round a good areall these almond: and orange with made pies small and cakes cake, fig for children. for is a“ludoteca”, area there aplay Inside, symbolism. of is full that one and style architectural esoteric an displays forest, pine- amysterious by surrounded Lúcio, João painter the of Chalet The out. goes or in comes tide the as murmurs mill tidal A attractions. the of areanother park, the by is guaranteed survival whose and endangered was which species indigenous an water-dogs, famous The soil. marshy or dry in growing plants and birds, migratory see can we where from atrack down Park Natural Formosa to the discover is time it Now meal. wi th brandy in; stuffed figs, figs, in; stuffed brandy th . We set off off . We set Ria Ria

Quinta de Marim

Quinta de Marim

TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 89 TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 90 “conquilhas” – followed –followed “conquilhas” and –clams molluscs delicious cuisine: capital’s the from to sample plenty EN 125, the on is there road by or boat by either to returned Having deserted. part most the for beaches, warm unspoiled, of aredozens There totour aconclusion. this to way bring perfect is the channels the through Barreta) da the of paradise little the describe to words areno There edges. at their lapping waves the with see, can eye the as far as stretch beaches Golden of island Farol Culatra of islands to the Ria the of channels the through acruise is to on idea go tempting most the But visiting. worth well are that exhibitions and has a museum Olhão, from 1km Marim, de Quinta in Centre Interpretation and Information The coast. Algarve the of part this of flora and fauna the of world wonderful the to discover opportunity an provides it and Ancão, to Cacela-Velha from 17,000 some hectares, area an of covers Park Natural Formosa Ria The , or even to the to even the , or Ilha Deserta (Ilha (Ilha Deserta Ilha , Fuzeta Armona and this trip trip this and . and and Faro ,

Quinta de Marim Quinta de Marim Tidal mill of of nightlife lively the in ourselves immerse to time is still There dishes. favourite the of aresome these ink; their with fried cuttlefish baby or or shellfish, monkfish of a “cataplana” alternative an as or clams, razor with rice atasty soup, fish atypical by activities. cultural of range ahuge alongside goes, entertainment as far as way the lead Algarve the of University the of people young

Faro Island of Farol , where the the , where

Dunes

TOUR OF THE RIA FORMOSA CENTRO 91 9 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 2 Tavira Beach the other side of the Guadiana… the of side other the from paradise, of side eastern the on again once gaze our to rest home returning river, before Gilão the on city this of slopes rocky the Tavira, down and up go of churches thousand the finally,visit And we shall Africa. from bird a discover can we which in blues of palette its with Formosa, Ria the of islands and channels the through wander and Olhão of labyrinth the in lost We get shall city. biggest the of life cosmopolitan the in dip another taking and barrocal the through returning before have adip even might and sand white fine, the by dazzled be will we Carvoeiro, of village the in hand your of size the houses toy feet, our at up;cliffs high be still will we but again strip coastal to the down We go will adventure. the of beginning the to witness bear which and difficulty, with through sunshines the which chimneys, decorated and houses, whitewashed of Algarve an Silves, and Paderne and Loulé between landscape Mediterranean the of delights to the We yield will distance. blue into the disappear which roads to the next right precipices unusual the by amazed We be will Brás. to São Marim Castro from Algarve, other this of roads the along way our wind we as them with dance will we dance, and trees strawberry and heather cistus, the make serra the in breezes hill the where to on routes We venture will land. the on routes tourist the following west, to the adventure an on go we between, In ocean. the of infinity into the disappears it as it with end we and Andalusia, over somewhere ball red is a it sunwhere the with We rise great trajectory. T his is the Algarve over which the sun makes its its sunmakes the which over Algarve his is the 9 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 3 94 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE

TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 95 +/- 260km 96 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE now transformed into the into the transformed now market, old The areas. sitting outdoor and shops of hundreds with paradise, area is ashopper’s central The Pombal. de Marquês Praça square known well the on converging streets of plan geometrical its 1755 the after with Lisbon central of earthquake, layout street the of areplica as Enlightenment, the António Santo de at look haveto closer a good be would it discovery, of journey our on off setting Before Alportel the In Cão. de Espinhaço de Serra the in Atlantic the of smell the or Monchique of garden wild to the contrast in stand northeast, the plateaus of the and Caldeirão the hillsof undulating the serra, the In Barlavento. the in beaches small surprising and cliffs, the of contours abrupt the by are replaced waters gentle their with Sotavento the of beaches the On photographs. of album aunique together put have will we end, the By Algarve. the of parts other hillsof the in and coast the on routes exploring for ideas contains Algarve Central the This the Avenida da República, República, Avenida da the gives marina river, the and Guadiana the down and up go boats other while bank, opposite the on Ayamonte neighbouring to river the cross ferries fishing; with associated always was city The venues. cultural with stalls vegetable and fruit fish, the Centre, replaced Cultural Aleixo António cities Tour beyond coast , the vivaciousness of of vivaciousness , the , the things that stand out are the Islamic heritage of of heritage Islamic arethe out stand that things , the , the long long , the , the starting point for this tour. It was founded in 1774, in tour. this founded for was It of point middle the in right starting , the

Loulé Vila deSanto Real António , the imposingness of of imposingness , the Faro Silves , the gracefulness of of gracefulness , the , the elegance of of elegance , the Tavira São Brás de de Brás São Vila Real Real Vila . Carvoeiro important port and the starting point for the Roman road which ran parallel to the Guadiana passing passing Guadiana to the parallel ran which road Roman the for point starting the and port important an waters, shallow by surrounded island 1242. an until was and sea to the closer once was town The power Arab centre of important an and Algarve, the in places oldest the of is one Marim Castro Guadiana. the of waters calm the and flying birds the see can you horizon, the On expanse. white their in sunlight the reflect which production, salt traditional for areused which of direction the in north to the We city leave the salads. seafood fresh and dishes grilled prawns, Gordo Monte delicious the or clams “conquilhas” the added rich see, lapped by the Atlantic which here is warm and gentle. and is warm here which Atlantic the by lapped see, of bay beautiful the frame which dunes the protect the of mouth the of view awide top commanding its from city, whole the and coast the over watches lighthouse The air. acosmopolitan avenue, waterfront charming the Castro Marim – salt pans Vila Real de Santo António – waterfront gastronomy Guadiana river Guadiana with famous dishes made from tuna, a long-established tradition. To be can this tradition. along-established tuna, from made dishes famous with , of the deep green of the pine forest, which was planted there to there planted was which forest, pine the of green deep the , of Castro Marim Castro Monte Gordo Monte (IC 27), winding between the salt-pans salt-pans the between 27), (IC winding , of beaches as far as they eye can can eye they as far as beaches , of whole of the surrounding surrounding the of whole the over view excellent an command battlements Its walls. the and Sebastião the constructing for reasons the were Africa, North from attacks Moorish the repel to need the and Castile of Kingdom the with border the on position strategic Its Lisbon. as far as going and Beja, and Mértola Alcoutim, through its of proud is also city The here. habitat ideal an find crustaceans and molluscs fish, life: with pulsating and tide, the of going and coming the by soaked marsh, the and woodland the of perfume the with is combined sea the of smell The birds. of species many and flora unique to is home which place, António Santo de Real Vila and Marim Castro of marsh Salt- the of Reserve the To north, the Castle is a magnificent is amagnificent , the Fort of S. S. of Fort , the Nature Nature

TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 97 98 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE with whitewash to make them lighter and tougher. Heading east, it is only 9 kmalmond to shells which leave an earthy smell in the air. The final products, after beingenough burnished, to break are thecoated pieces. The ovens are previously heated with wood from the holm-oak extractedand fromthen undergroundwith and the impurities removed: a small piece of wood or a stone wouldWorking be with clay is a complex business. Before the potter’s wheel centuries. for on going can been has that start acraft to turn, tile-makers, the to see visits the organises association) clay has to be tile-makers (traditional Telheiros de Artesanais Associação the booking, advance With soil. calcareous its from comes tiles, roof “Moorish” and bricks) (solid burro” “tijolo tiles, wall tiles, to paving make used is which clay the and trees, lemon and orange of groves by is surrounded village The Guadiana. the on route smugglers’ in arrive we 7km, After EN 270.the of direction the in head Tavira,we for there and exit to the 20 km is only It trees. almond of groves or trees carob with planted barrocal, the of lands arethe there To sea. north, the of the backdrop blue the against cities, coastal and villages fishing seen be can coast to Toup the south the varied. is surprisingly which panorama a enjoy can you motorway, the on areas stopping different At the contrast. stimulating and apleasant provides history of heritage the enjoying after facilities modern of away. metres Taking advantage hundred afew only a junction the for head you that We suggest costume. period in participating inhabitants the all with streets, to on the parade eye-catching an brings which Marim Castro Days of Mediaeval The items. original and unique tapestry, and cane, from made baskets miniatures, wooden genuine find to difficult is not It imagination. popular the in rooted deeply so became enchantments their from them to rescue wanted who knights chivalrous and princesses Moorish of legends the why to understand is easy it history, of aweight such With area. Mediaeval Days of Castro Marim Castro of Days Mediaeval , which was used until the end of the 19th century and provided a link between the the between alink provided and 19th the of century end the until used was , which Santa Catarina da Fonte do Bispo Fonte do da Catarina Santa handicrafts Central Algarve Central , is an interesting festival held every year in September September yearin every held festival , isinteresting an which will delight people who appreciate popular art: art: popular appreciate who people delight will which on the Via do Infante (A 22) motorway, which has has which (A 22) motorway, Infante do Via the on Atlantic coast, via Monchique, and the border border the and Monchique, via coast, Atlantic Santa Catarina daFonte doBispo, tilemakers , a village which was once part of the the of part once was which , avillage São Brás de Alportel de Brás São São Brás de Alportel on on . examples. In almost all of them, the the them, of all almost In examples. price), low a very interesting. are very municipality this in villages the of names The toys. and Algarve, the of people the by worn once garments of collection interesting its with inspiration Moorish of amansion in Bentes, António Cultura da Casa the for have we to head Then visited. be also can bandstand, beautiful its with “Verbena”, as known also Garden Episcopal The town. the around hillsides the shade trees strawberry and pine eucalyptus, today. oaks, Cork visible is still which time that from remains the of is one Road) (Roman Romana” “Calçadinha The Romans. to the Tavira of Loulé (Alentejo), Faro time and the since joined to Almodôvar the of heart –is the Xanabras or Xanabus gastronomy The sweets. regional and brandy “medronho” sausages, honey, cheeses, of production the alongside made areall these spoons: wooden work, wrought-iron tin, of made items brushes, and brooms cane, is rich and varied, with game dishes the speciality, complemented by sweets, amongst amongst sweets, by complemented speciality, the dishes game with varied, and is rich Tesoureiro (Treasurer), Parises , Mealhas (Coins) or Mesquita (Mosque) are just a few afew arejust (Mosque) (Coins) (Treasurer), ,Mealhas Mesquita or Parises Ethnographic Museum of Algarve Costume Algarve of Museum Ethnographic craftsmen cork industry cork stick to tradition. Rag rugs, baskets made of wicker and and wicker of made baskets rugs, Rag to tradition. stick , the point where the roads cross which have which cross roads the where point , the

Regional Sweets São Brás de Alportel Tareja in 1291,in turned market free the of creation the centre1249, until urban Arab and important an was This Loulé. for head we road, same the on and direction same the in Continuing highlight. is the preserve) gourd malabar and eggs fig, or almonds of made cake (traditional serrano” “morgado the which focus in the Espirito Santo Espirito the in focus is the culture history; breathe origin Arab of walls city The Algarve. mediaeval the centresin major the of one (Teresa), Desbarato (selling at (selling (Teresa), Desbarato which is part of the the of is part which Loulé . into

Cork

TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 99 100 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE hill which can be seen from wherever you are in Loulé. The The Loulé. arein you wherever from seen be can which hill the on built was chapel little the so And ahollow. in hidden to church be her want not did Saint the that thought they so and hill: the top of the on them how,found they knowing day, without next the site and the at tools their left workers The acave. near to be planned initially was which church, the of building the concerns them of One Mother date from several centuries ago. of Loulé. The Piety), of Lady (Our Piedade the patron saint da Sra. to N. dedicated style, Renaissance the in monument is a16thThis century sea. the and countryside the city, the over point aviewing as serves which ahill on left, the on seen be can Mother) (Sovereign the Boliqueime, towards EN 270 the on city leave the we As Algarve. the throughout entertainment of focus the is transformed, Loulé that February in time at carnival merry-making intense of days three is for it But festival. jazz annual the host cloisters whose and gallery art into an turned been has convent, which Boliqueime legends about the Sovereign Mãe Soberana Mãe , abundant supplies of potable water. potable of supplies abundant with place this across came and Algarve the of coast the off whales and tuna for wentfishing who Venetians and Sicilians Genoese, to the is attributed Italian, in springs) water”, “eyes of underground i.e. meaning (literally água” de “olhos from is derived which town, the of name The side. southern the on hills except other by surrounded ahillside, on located is stop EN 270, the Still on next the tin. and copper of made items and bags belts, grass, esparto of hats and carpets and baskets make they skill, unparalleled With at work. found be still can craftspeople walls, the near barrocal to the leads which ascent steep the on bearers the by at arun is carried it as litter, the accompany praise, shouting and cloths waving people of Thousands Portugal. of south the in attended best and impressive most the of is one time at Easter Loulé, (Sovereign Soberana Mãe Mother) , Loulé is a place of of is aplace , Loulé procession Sanctuary that is held in her honour honour her in is held that handicrafts Boliqueime , In the heart of the the of heart the , In and in the shops shops the in and which is which of beach present-day at the probably sea, the to closer was settlement first The castle: Paderne is rich in history. in is rich Paderne castle: aChristian fortress, military Arab an fort, aRoman fort, hill ALusitanian . the by built was fortress original the that thought it is and flag, Portuguese the on features and Algarve the in castles oldest the of strength”. in is one walls It stone exceeds it that tough and is strong “so said, archaeologist Algarve first the Oliveira, de Ataíde as which, lime and sand of amixture construction, military Arab of “taipa”,of a but technique stone, of notmade it is usual: from is different castle the hill, anearby On 18th the century. from dating chimney decorated isinteresting an there street, main the In countryside. surrounding the from out standing houses white old its with hill, agentle on stands Paderne bends. tight rather the for up making around landscape the with hills, into us up the EN takes 270. route the on The of direction the in Boliqueime of out road to not the miss careful toYou be need of complex tourist the where and Mecham Martim 1297 in donated Esquire to D. by Diniz Quarteira famous the of estate to the distance ashort is only It to Flanders. shipped were fruits dried the that kinds different of baskets in was it as tradition, along making, basket of craft the for areused which areharvested reeds Algibre, river the of banks the On aroma. unmistakable and a sweet releases it preparation, and pod the removing of process the During fruit. the of value energy high the shows which desert, the in it on himself fed Baptist the St John because name this has It St John’s Bread. or carob, processing centre for important an is still there area, the In here. out carried sugar planting for trials first the Ihad João King that rich so was soil The earthquake. 1755 the by destroyed was south) (1 to the km Boliqueime Old location. today’s reached they until occasions two on toaway move inhabitants the caused earthquakes and coastline the

Olhos de Água de Olhos Olhos de Água Beach . The movement of of movement . The Vilamoura stands today. stands Paderne , once again again , once

Paderne Olhos de Água Beach 101 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 10

TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 2 When she arrived in his new kingdom, the princess became became princess the kingdom, his new in arrived she When his love. returned she and combat; in beaten had he whom north, the from lord agrand of daughter Gilda, with love in fell region Al-Gharb the from prince aMoorish that it has legend The -trees beautiful the that isSilves in It Algarve. the in places other from different quite strange, and sweet accent echoes, local the where market local lively the in juicy, and sweet them, buying than better is nothing there and oranges, of eggs). This land is a and almonds of mix a with filled cakes (crescent-shaped luas” “meias and eggs from made sweets “morgado”, Silves ,the wine) Port of asip and nuts fruits, crystallized (made of real” “bolo include sweets known best the and land, the and sea the from produce of a synthesis is gastronomy traditional The Museum. Cork the visit can you factory, cork aformer below, Inglês” do “Fábrica the In city. the over view best the for up climb can you where walls the to not mention ruins, archaeological and is a garden there castle the Inside cathedral. old is the to visit place important Another Andaluz. Al of whole the in wells 12th cistern century important most the of one houses which Museum Archaeological Municipal is the Cidade da Portas the tower of the of side other Nearby, the on Town Gates) the and Hall. (City Cidade da Portas the apillory, see can you where Município, do Largo to the lanes narrow the through up river, climb we the and over gracefully arches bridge Roman The pass. to not us today, did time if as immutable to be appears it houses, white the and cathedral Silves old the by surrounded tone,and reddish its with sandstone, from Built Silves makes most sense. most makes legend of the almond- almond- the of legend leading to a water-mill with to with awater-mill leading road stone old the of stretch a with bridge, mediaeval a over passing castle, the around walk is ashort There dominating the landscape. the dominating castle proud its with today people impresses still commercially, and culturally advanced so being for past the in notable was which capital, Islamic former the river, Arade the Overlooking Silves 269, us to takes Road which Regional on Silves of direction the in We leave Paderne weir. its via via Algoz .

Fábrica do Inglês legend of the almond-trees the of legend the by inspired poem, beautiful this from extracts water”. aresome the Here and sky the between die and live areborn, who apeople of imagination the of praise “in wrote apoem poet The Moors). the of Lands the in away pined who Ice of Land the from Princess the of Romance (The suspirava” Terras em Moirama que da Gelos País dos do Princesa da Romance wrote “O who Santos dos Ary Carlos José troubadour the as such writers, and many poets inspired has trees almond the of legend The winter. every is repeated flower in trees almond of miracle the dayto that this, from where, land, ahot Al-Gharb, in happily lived on then from and landscape, beautiful at the looking by cured immediately was Gilda legend, to according the And, around. all countryside the covering “snow” of blanket marvellous a see awoke to day,winter’s castle fine the one And blossom. in when petals white tiny with valleys the tohillsand cover the planted trees almond of thousands having of idea the had he Then desolation. total such for cure a to find managed Nobody suffering. princess his and ruler their seeing from suffered people the and sad, looking her seeing from suffered also Moor young the suffered, day. princess The every sadder and sadder soothsayers and jesters and soothsayers prophets goblins, dwarves, oracles magi, me Tell King: The (...) . hair tousled their with sobs in collapsed who forefathers my of land the from absence my of crystals Oh, voice. my of windows Oh, silence. my of doors Oh, Princess: The (...) at the very end of the earth.” earth.” the of end very the at snow for pining was who princess the of smile the lead, of fingers with sealed, sadness by carved stone of afternoon an in that spell the break I should how mouth summer that of cries the silence I should how eyes river those of tears the dry I should how poets seers witches

Almond trees in flower 10

TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 3 104 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE Once there, the crystal clear waters by the beach, which is magically framed by cliffs, more than than more cliffs, by framed is magically which beach, the by waters clear crystal the there, Once at beach is the surprise A nice 1561. in Rome in published was which another on based in Portugal, printed map first the as is regarded what on appears it that is such Carvoeiro Cape of importance strategic The sea. the accesses to secret reveal which cliffs, Terrace). Lagoa Cape Carvoeiro Cape is the place to start a fascinating boat trip through the 18 caves in these 18 the these in through caves trip boat afascinating to start place is the Carvalho Only five kilometres from Lagoa is Lagoa from kilometres five Only in, together came Nearby, many potters parish. the in found was which gardens, the in stands Amenhir past. the in anonymously placed were children abandoned where foundlings, of wheel a has gallery, into art an turned been has which Convent, Santo Espírito The walking. or cycling riding, horse for golf, playing for areideal which summers cool and winters gentle climate with amild enjoys Lagoa Caldeirão, the by northwest the from and Monchique de Serra the by northeast the from lake.Protected to anearby owing apparently “Abenabece” called was period Arab the during which shapes, and the romantic Varanda dos Namorados (Lovers’ (Lovers’ Namorados dos Varanda romantic the and shapes, at formations rock extraordinary arethe away metres 800 boats. fishing traditional the of is full which beach, the overlooking around hillsides the on houses and beach picturesque for head we Santos, dos Ary of lines the by Lulled an unusual place with access hidden between the rocks. rocks. the between accesshidden with place unusual an Algar Seco Algar Porches , sculpted by the wind and the sea into fantastic into sea fantastic the and wind the by , sculpted a tradition that still continues to day. this continues still that atradition Carvoeiro , with its its , with Lagoa ,

Carvoeiro From Carvoeiro, on the road along the cliff top which goes through through goes which top cliff the along road the on From Carvoeiro, there. getting of difficulty the for compensate the fine sands, tinged with gold by the sun, is today a cosmopolitan town. a is sun, cosmopolitan the today by gold with tinged sands, fine the lap which waters blue calm with beach huge to a next village, fishing asmall once was What name. its Pêra nearby area which is for pedestrian access only, combine tradition with the sophistication of modern modern of sophistication the with tradition accessonly, combine pedestrian is for area which nearby and SantoAntónio de Rua The Seminary. Town Episcopal the and -and Hall rested III D. Afonso where Arch) gate –the (Rest Arco Repouso do the Assumption), of Lady (Our Assunção da Senhora Nossa of Convent the Cathedral, the centre includes historical the is indisputable: City Old the of beauty The time. of “Faroon”, in treasures plenty demand which We approach now complex. whole the about is information Centre there Interpretation and Welcome the In illusion. optical an of because to normal returns size their but moving be to appear only not they water the through seen when because intentional was This fat. exaggeratedly are which depicted arefish there baths, the In life. marine representing mosaics with embellished was the in discovered to be temple a3rd century and house manor is aRoman to 2km is only it motorway, to Faro. the areclose we leaving time On ashort in and motorway A22 Infante” do “Via the on travel can we long, too for continue Tour not the that So does EN 125 the We leave on now for “Beijinhos”. and Grande” “Maré the from stretches of beach idyllic is the below Down pillage. from themselves to it defend used and sea the on worked who those for arefuge and attacks, pirate against bulwark adefensive once was which Rocha, da Senhora Nossa of Chapel the near scenery beautiful the is highlights the of One Algarve. the of rest the in it to equal nothing has coast rugged of stretch This Estói - Milreu Ruins where there was an “armação” for catching sardines and tuna, a type of net which gave the place place gave the which net of atype tuna, and sardines catching for “armação” an was there where Ponta da Galé da Ponta Faro , the capital of the Algarve, through fertile and flowery fields. There are many are There fields. flowery and fertile through Algarve, the of capital , the Alcantarilha to this point, with beautiful beaches such as “Pescadores” (Albufeira) (Albufeira) as “Pescadores” such beaches beautiful with to point, this a village built on a hill and dominated by the church. the by dominated and ahill on built avillage Senhora da Rocha da Senhora , . It is cradled by a wide bay which which bay awide by is cradled . It Milreu Ruins Milreu we get to get we caught fish for sale, sale, fishfor caught is freshly there day. morning, the In the throughout lasts Market the of atmosphere colourful The style. “southern” the in built all alleys, and lanes of labyrinth the around stroll or waterfront, the on park pescadores” dos “jardim the in walk or August, in Shellfish of Festival the in to join maybe 125 to to go EN toWe the return shops. Estói Armação de de Armação , where there there , where The villa villa The Olhão

105 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 106 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE swallowed up by the waves. Fishermen continue to fear the calls of Floripes and there are very few who who few are very there and Floripes of calls to fear the continue Fishermen waves. the by up swallowed be would adventurer the crossing, the during wentout candle the If tide. at low back, and islands the of one to candle lit a with walking endeavour: an such for tests stringent the in is difficulty The return. in riches and happiness promising broken, spell to have the begging sung, being lament her hear can you nights certain on that say community the of members oldest The Olhão. of people the over exerts Formosa Ria the that power the of isexample an maiden, many of is aplace Olhão Formosa. Ria the of wonders the of us to the take boats, hired or crossings, boat Regular birds. the of singing the rivals waves the of murmuring the and restored is completely mill tidal The attractions. park’s the of are another which divers skilful those dogs, water famous the habitats, to different plants of adaptation the birds, migratory see us to allows which track a along off We city. set the from 2km than less headquarters to way the On beans. broad with cuttlefish or clams razor with rice are surprises Other eel. or dog-fish with made stews style, Olhão squid clam), of stuffed atype with porridge maize of (a kind comconquilhas” “xarem with gastronomy the in feature seafood of types All other. each top of on piled cubes of impression the give roofs of instead terraces roof with Town: Cubist houses the the Olhão, of buildings traditional the over panorama impressive and huge the seen be tower can church From the middle. the in cupola achapel with roofs distinctive its with century 18th the in founded Marítimo” “Compromisso is the Nearby huts”). thatched some only were there where made, was church this people, this of fishermen the of expense (At the palhotas” umas haviam só que em templo este fez se povo deste mar do “À homens dos custa that façade 1695in its on declares built was which Church Main The senses. the for delight a flavours, and smells colours, of is adisplay river. to This the next right bars of isarea an there evenings, the in and meeting-place areas areapopular sitting outdoor the afternoon the in of Olhão, starting starting Olhão, of Tavira , we cannot foreget a visit to the to the avisit foreget cannot , we legends , and the story of Floripes, a very beautiful but enchanted Moorish Moorish enchanted but beautiful avery Floripes, of story the , and islands of Culatra of islands Ria Formosa Natural Park Natural Formosa Ria , Armona and Farol and search in , Armona , which has its its has , which

Shellfish Festival Olhão, drying fish We arrive in in We arrive like beaches idyllic many other and sand of Faro islands small from aVelha, forms to which, Cacela Formosa to the back way the on We arealready “callings”. the fear they where “apparitions” of place this in night the todare spend comes to end. an comes to returning before shellfish, sautéed of plate tasty or a fish grilled anice clams, or oysters, delicious some of search to in go sunset leave at our take we as brightly, shining distance, into away the stretches sea The Algarve. authentic another, us more show which architecture popular of examples arefine there village, the in arriving On region. the in living also were Cúneos the of tribe Lusitanian the B.C.: 800 around Phoenicians the by founded possibly was village The Ria Formosa. the of edge the on cliff asandy top of at the in fort the beside sunset afabulous to enjoy time be still will There Algarve. the in beaches best the of one Tavira, de Ilha certainly marvellous to the catch aboat can you where Águas to town Quatro the links which train other the also route, and heritage historical the follow to mini-train electrical the seatin a taking Tavira that churches to has offer.it worth is this For many the of one and castle centre, the exhibition Galeria da Palácio the visit you that We recommend stood. mosques of minarets the once where towers church numerous the by shown as town Moorish later a was It Romans. the by founded was, Balsa of town old the where was this that is presumed It castle. the towards up climb lanes narrow the centre where Tavira, in ahistorical and streets arebeautiful There arches. seven of up made bridge Roman afine by joined two, in city the Fuzeta and and Tavira Cabanas to admire the Gilão river in which the decorated city is reflected. The river divides divides river The is reflected. city decorated the which in river Gilão the to admire . Vila Real de Santo António Santo de Real Vila Sotavento , and we will stay in the coastal area of the Ria Ria the area of coastal the in stay will we , and where this Tour Beyond the Central Algarve Algarve Central the Tour this where Beyond Cacela Velha Cacela , a picturesque village village , apicturesque

Ria Formosa 107 TOUR BEYOND THE CENTRAL ALGARVE 108 TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO CONTENTS OFTOURSTHESOTAVENTO living here,inremarkableharmony. mark, butwithoutpreventingotherspeciesfrom through enchantinglandscapeswheremanlefthis of thesouth,onwhichdifferentpeoplestravelled, Andaluz. WewillfollowtheGuadiana,greatriver secrets ofanage-oldculture,fromthetimeAl- The TouroftheGuadianatakesusinsearch sometimes withdeepgorges. An impressivelandscape,sometimesundulating, and palmtrees.Gentlehillsrightuptothecoast. Caldeirão, withitsoliveandalmondtrees,fig,carob you alongthesouth-facingslopesofSerrado The TouroftheSerra,startinginTavira,willtake António, hometoawiderangeofspeciesbirds. Salt-Marsh ofCastroMarimandVilaRealdeSanto pans, andintotheheartofNatureReserve of thepineforests,whitehousesandsalt ocean, thegoldenyellowofbeaches,green The TunaTourwilltakeyoutoseetheblueof vivaciousness of Lagos and the imposingness of Faro. of Silves, the strong sense of identity in Portimão, the cities, the things that stand out are the Islamic heritage of the Atlantic in the Serra de Espinhaço de Cão. In the contrast to the wild garden that is Monchique or the smell Caldeirão and the plateaus of the northeast, stand in of the cliffs in the Barlavento. The undulating hills of the their gentle waters are replaced by the abrupt contours On the coast, the long beaches of the Sotavento with about the diversity of other parts of the Algarve. staying in the east or Sotavento the chance to find out the west or Barlavento, a tour that gives people who are The Tour beyond the Sotavento takes us to places in SA DO BISPO DO VILA GRE S

AL JEZUR LA GO S PORTIM MONCHIQU CALD ÃO AS DE SI LV ES E 1 ALBUFEIRA 1 1 1 10 20 42 30 P. Marmelete »MonchiquePicotaSilvesFaro Vila doBispo»SagresCarrapateiraBordeiraAljezur Carvoeiro »FerragudoPortimãoOdeáxereLagos » AlbufeiraArmaçãodePêraPorchesLagoa Faro »S.LourençoAlmancilQuarteiraVilamoura +/- TOUR BEYONDTHESOTAVENTO Cacela »VelhaCastroMarim » CortelhaCortedoGagoSantaRitaVilaNovade » AlcoutimPereiroAlcariasMartilongoVaqueiros » AlcariaFozdeOdeleite»ÁlamoGuerreirosdoRio Castro Marim»MonteFranciscoJunqueiraAzinhal +/- TOUR OFTHEGUADIANA Estevão »LuzdeTaviraSantaLuzia Brás deAlportel»Javali»PereiroFoupanaSanto » CatraiaCortelhaBarrancodoVelhoAlportelSão Pedras Altas»CorteJoãoMarquesAmeixialBesteiros Tavira »CachopoÀguadosFusosMealhaAntadas +/- TOUR OFTHESERRA António »MonteGordo Cabanas »TaviraIlhadeVilaRealSanto » AldeiaNovaMantaRotaCacelaVelhaFábrica Monte Gordo»VilaRealdeSantoAntónioCastroMarim +/- TUNA TOUR 351 km 163 km 115 km 72 km LO UL É F DO ALPORTEL DO ARO MA LO S OBRÁS RTIM NGO CA CHOPO

TA VIRA AL CO UTIM MARI CASTRO ANT SAN DE VILA REAL ÓNI M TO O

Welcome to the Algarve! toWelcome the holidays. unforgettable spending of ways tempting some you shows Tours Sotavento the of The evenings. entertaining and lively for ourselves ready and dishes, seafood savour we as sunset the watching relics, stone amongst past the discovering rivers, on sailing relished, to be fascinations irresistible be will There bay. the of beaches the off waves warm serra, the of heart the in land of seas legends, ancient accents, lilting time, of dimension another discover will We herbs. aromatic with cuisine its flavouring Alentejo to the proximity its Guadiana, the of edge the on right stands Alcoutim serra. the of greens the over view amagnificent commands serious, and refined Alportel, de S.Brás churches. fine its of quality luminous unique the in river, wrapped Gilão the of waters the in reflected Tavira appears Gordo. Monte of bay the on dunes the of curves sensual the and northeast, the plateaus of rugged the of Caldeirão, do Serra the of green deep the sea, the of blues warm the is of atour this Park, Natural Formosa Ria the and Marim Castro of Reserve Nature the of paradise the through wandering or secrets, F ollowing the Guadiana river in search of ancient ancient of search in river Guadiana the ollowing 109 TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO 110 TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO of those men from the past, on the tuna tour. tuna the on past, the from men those of wars the and feats glorious the discern can we blue, into the out looking still And charcoal. over cooked sea the of produce the try shall we sight, in south the of blue eternal Later, the with . and Cabanas in eating-houses friendly and Gordo Monte in buildings the filling the coast, along out spread fishermen tuna the of grandchildren the time, same At the dawn. at peninsula Cacela the of sands the in shellfish for searching hand, in poles them, see We also can hand. by nets fishing the sew now they fingers, petrified seemingly and hair white with between, far and Few fishermen. tuna brave the of sons are the there still But choice. this with happy even maybe to, or resigned if as waters, calm cover the boats and nets catch tuna: off to set men where place the in trade old that of signs arefew there Nowadays, begins. Algarve the of part hottest the through tour the to end, an comes Formosa Ria the Where Rota. Manta of waters clear warm the 32to Tavira churches, of its with monuments the From Gordo. Monte of oasis cosmopolitan – to the Marim Castro in symbols have that become birds F rom the watery realm of the herons – those slender slender –those herons the realm of watery the rom t una tour

sotavento 111 TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTOFishing nets 11

TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO 2 11

TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO 3 +/- 114

TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO 72km of similar proportions. Some refused to move. refused Some proportions. similar of are beach the and bay the where Lagos, in Praia wentto Meia and boats into got their others Andalusia, constructed recently 1755 the of time to atto the to move the force Pombal, them wanted de Marquês earthquake, The Catalonia. and of coasts the from coming people of is evidence there Andalusians, and Portuguese from apart the of and century, 18th beginning the here at living fishermen already were There continues. still fishing traditional-style and was it what is still tradition that show beach the of side western the on up lined boats colourful The beach. immense the and bay wide at the look Havea point. starting Gordo Monte salt-pans. the and houses the of white the forests, pine the of green the beaches, the of yellow golden the oceans, the of blue the toyou see TunaThe Tour take will t una tour

is the is the sotavento Vila Real de Santo António Santo de Real Vila Vila deSanto Real António . The fishermen did not like the idea: some went to some idea: the like not did fishermen . The the 1960s, in the early days of the the of days early 1960s, the in the in and season bathing the to spend here houses to build began families Alentejo wealthy 1940s, the In Algarve. the over all famous are Gordo Monte of curses The language. unrepeatable sometimes and colourful in swearing, by feelings one’s relieving of arose habit the that fishermen, modest the and Marquês the of power the between struggle unequal this of because problems, these of because perhaps was It Monte Gordo Beach We now move on to on We move now here. built was region the hotelsin first the of one industry, tourist stork is a year-round feature. is ayear-round stork resident the of flight elegant the whereas marshes, the in flamingos the of colour pinkish the see can you autumn, the In south. the of heat to the routes migratory their on here stop that others yet and seasons, particular during arefuge for look that those added be To must these birds. of species ahundred than more to is home which Salt-Marsh, António Santo de Real Vila and Marim Castro the of Reserve Nature the through passing of direction the in IC27 the on north to the city We leave the will area. sitting outdoor continuous into to almost an district shopping lively the have turned and use to creative molluscs make they and food-lovers, as arewell-known inhabitants The centre. commercial alively and canning centre for important an 1773 became it time In border. December the to defend 30th on into being came town the earthquake, the by destroyed was which Arenilha, de SantoAntónio to replace Built iron. wrought and work masonry with decorated Guarda, da Casa old Town the the Church, and Hall arethe square the centre. Around the from out radiating calçada, Portuguese in paved Pombal, de Marquês Praça square the convergeon and pattern agrid in out arelaid streets The earthquake. night to know where the sea ends and land begins; by day, the blue bars painted on the tower show tower show the on painted day, by bars blue begins; the land and ends sea the where tonight know at light its on depend Sailors tall. metres 46 standing lighthouse, imposing the see can we right the On lives. chameleon, the species, aprotected where pines stone of forest them where the coastal area is. coastal the where them Vila deSanto Real António -Praça Marquês dePombal Vila Real de Santo António Santo de Real Vila Castro Marim Castro , on the road which runs alongside the deep green green deep the alongside runs which road the on dishes with tuna with dishes Lisbon after the 1755 the after Lisbon rebuilding of experience the by inspired was and Algarve, the in unique is that something style, “Pombaline” the in centretown built historical to the distance ashort just is now It river. the of width the despite side other the on Ayamonte of buildings the see can you river, where Guadiana the of mouth the towards turns then road coast The , put shellfish and and shellfish , put Castro Marim 115 TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO 116 TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO Items of rustic rustic of Items specialities. local the of some arejust coriander) and garlic with soup bread with (Portuguese fish“açorda” fried beans) and broad (made with sapatadas” “favas marsh, traditional The SantoAntónio. of Chapel the and Sebastião São of Fort the seen be hills can surrounding 18th the the On century. from dating Church Main is the architecture traditional the of feature outstanding an walls, the of foot At the horizon. the on Real Vila and Ayamonte of cities the with reserve, the and river the over is aview there castle, old the of today. continues battlements From the still which activity atraditional shapes, pyramid into piled sun, the in shine crystals salt The coast. the into nears spills it as Guadiana the which marshes salt the of afeature been have pans salt the of shapes geometric the 14th the immemorial, in time Since century. Christ of Order military the of headquarters the and Besarius of port Roman the was it millennia: for existed has Marim Castro south. the for head and wings their flap a sudden of all signal, invisible to some responding seemingly part, their for ducks, wild The Manta Rota Manta handicrafts gastronomy include delightful miniatures made of wood, basketwork, bobbin lace and and lace bobbin basketwork, wood, of made miniatures delightful include is based on fish, crustaceans and shellfish: fish soup, crabs from the salt- the from crabs soup, fish shellfish: and crustaceans fish, on is based This old village is built around the mediaeval water- mediaeval the around is built village old This to kilometres a dozen us tohalf cover the allows sea the near road A small summer. the spend is or to nice it live where town to asmall remain managed has Rota Manta t protects bay the as Portugal, in waters warmest area the has This Europe. in biggest the of one beach, continuous Formosa Days of Castro Marim” is held, a three-day festival festival athree-day is held, Marim” Castro of Days “Mediaeval September, the yearin Every tapestry. Between the Guadiana estuary and the the and estuary Guadiana the Between to off turn to the 4km about for west head we There EN 125 proper, near the as far as Reserve the through winds which road 125-6 To connecting the we take to coast, the return parade. ahandsome and amarket is also there but popular, areespecially banquets The time. that from people as up dress inhabitants the which during

Manta Rota Manta Castro Marim – Main Church , which starts here, there are 12 there here, of km starts , which he beaches from the ocean currents. currents. ocean the from beaches he . Aldeia Nova Aldeia Cacela Velha Cacela . . Ria Ria One of the houses has a poem by by apoem has houses the of One worthwhile. visit 1749, in built was that fort the of walls the a makes to next from Ria the over view the just but wheel, Breyner Andresen on display on its walls, which which walls, its on display on Andresen Breyner On leaving Cacela, we take the turn to turn the take we Cacela, leaving On intact. practically remained has which whole grey, or aharmonious blue creating in out picked frames window and door the with whitewash, with arepainted houses the Still all today, of walls the 1242. in it re-conquered Santiago, of Order the of Master D. Peres Correia, Paio afort. built Arabs Pho the by settled first was It a cliff. top of the on name, same the of ariver of bank right the on developed which place, old is avery Cacela firma”. “terra herald which dunes and beaches the on bordering Ria, the in water of mirrors the with contrasts tides the and sea the of movement The Tavira Cabanas. and Armona, Culatra, Barreta, coast: to the parallel almost away stretching islands narrow, of sandy is abarrier there between In sea. areas of small and channels with interspersed islets and marshes creeks, the other the on ocean, is the side one On splendour. its all in here from Park Natural Formosa Ria The beauty.” its for just wanted was Cacela But riches, their besieged For were sea the of cities the power their conquered With were strongholds “The as: translates enicians around 800 B.C., the Romans in turn built fishing facilities and the the and facilities fishing built turn in Romans the B.C., 800 around enicians Sophia can be seen seen be can Fábrica de Mello Mello de , which is right beside the water and gets its name from from name its gets and water the beside is right , which Cacela Velha

Cacela Velha - D. Paio Peres Correia Fort 117 TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO 118 TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO It became the main supporting port after after port supporting main the became It Algarve. the in settlement of places main the of one was it rule, Islamic of period the During Mediterranean. the from produce unloading and Algarve northeast the from minerals shipping for aport as times to pre-historic dates back which to 5 km EN 125 the drive On will we again, once recipes. octopus of range delicious the out to try place right is the This coast. whole the along used is still which pot) the of technique the discovered man, alocal Viana, Sebastião until octopus, of catching the by replaced was This season. fishing tuna the during temporarily occupied were which dwellings fragile there, huts fishermen’s only were there with, To boat. by start accessible is only which beach beautiful its for visiting is worth which and Formosa tocome EN 125, towe the 8km Returning after restaurants. nearby the in savoured be can which clams and oysters for grounds breeding in rich area is The factory. processing fish old an Fábrica Tavira Cabanas , the city of 32 of churches, city , the , hidden in the Ria Ria the in , hidden alcatruz (a clay

Cabanas Cabanas We shall return to We return shall discovered. to be stories of full and history with acity for setting is aperfect Formosa Ria The light. of nuances luminous and calm with sea, the with harmony isgreatest in city Tavira the that de Ilha the (island) on or Águas Quatro in is certainly it but enjoyed, be A as known was town the At time, that is this of example An remains. archaeological of range awide and heritage architectural ahuge with centre historical Tavira, in important an and streets are beautiful There bridge. Roman a seven-arched of The (141 of conquest the symbolise feeling and the turtle fidelity. fidelity. turtle the and feeling symbolise doves the these, Of animals. and musicians strength, symbolising warriors acouple, of carvings small are There ceremonies. wedding Islamic for used have been must it that is thought It piece. decorated Tavira Tavira Beach Gilão river Gilão is the key infl key is the Vila Real de Santo António Santo de Real Vila the famous famous the 5) which led to it being elevated to the status of a city in 1520. in acity of status to the elevated to being it led 5) which uence o uence Tavira Vase n its appearance and identity, and its banks are linked by means means by arelinked banks its and identity, and appearance n its lcaria Tabila. In the surrounding area there is fine countryside to iscountryside fine area there Tabila. surrounding the In lcaria , probably dating from the 11th the from dating , probably is alavishly it century, on the the on Via d Via o In fante the cistus even deeper. even cistus the of green the makes houses rural the of walls limewashed the from coming colour of asplash there, and Here oaks. holm and trees olive by populated slopes steeper air, the the fills with blossom in trees orange of perfume The horizon. the on out stand the hillsof undulating the To north, beach. to the the close houses of rows neat the with Gordo, Monte of bay the of blues different the see can we south, To access. of ease road’s the the of , motorway, taking advantage advantage taking , motorway, barrocal

Tavira – Four-sided roofs 119 TUNA TOUR SOTAVENTO 1 2

TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 0 Barranco do Velho on every kilometre of melted tar. melted of kilometre every on green, and to white tell, in aresecrets there Europe in skies clearest the river. Under Gilão the on city the personalise which tiles of rows the and roofs reddish the see can they hill, rocky the on From above journey. up this on visit also will we which churches of city the from away far far Algarve, the still is us leave. to This let boar, refuse wild of pleasures age-old the tempt us with soup, in us to invite partridge lives, their and us, the open They atriangle. in folded scarves decorative and hats their of brim the under hair white aprons, and waistcoats wear closer. They go Let’s astranger. see they when wave will who women and aremen there and sea, the of call the have resisted they decades For people. its has also Serra the But lavender. and carob of smells combined the with Serra, the of cistus and heather, strawberry-trees the in ourselves immersing before there, waters warm the in adip for is time There footpath. tree-lined the beyond distance, the in seen be can spray white with beach golden the us, behind Luzia Santa with Barril, do to way Praia the on sea of lots and land of abit is just There them. resists that breeze the devour they as balance carriages two B efore the road into the hills of the Serra, Serra, the hillsof into the road the efore tasca (a local eating place) for place) for eating (a local 1 2

TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 1 1 TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 22 1 TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 23 +/- 1 2 115km TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 4 into a pleasant shopping centre with little shops selling handicrafts inside and sitting areas where it it areas where sitting and inside handicrafts selling shops little centre with shopping into apleasant turned been has which market, municipal old the as far as river the of bank the along runs garden The middle. the in bandstand afine has which garden the facing arcades with abuilding hall, town the near In patterns. geometrical their with miniature in arealso There senses.” your in resounding always –colour green and –blue sap and waves “surge of Algarve: the about said Costa Emiliano poet bright of decoration, lavish of contrast, of alove by arecharacterised parapets These decorative. purely are Others fish. sometimes and aredried, figs where terraces, hide these of Some houses. the top of at the parapets areoften there villages, the In gorges. deep with sometimes undulating, sometimes An coast. to the down hills right Gentle trees. palm and carob fig, trees, almond and olive its with landscape marvellous the of slopes south-facing the in starting Tour Serra, the The of Tavira Cachopo Tavira impressive landscape impressive Serra do Caldeirão do Serra , will take you along along you take , will the Gilão river divides the city into two, joined by a fine afine by joined into two, city the divides river Gilão the , decorated façades, façades, , decorated , a , chimneys , with round bases or tall and slender, like minarets slender, minarets like and tall or bases round , with Roman bridge Roman which has one end end one has which colours The The

Tavira Serra do Caldeirão It is thought that it was the seafarers coming back from the Far East who invented these roofs. Wanting Wanting roofs. inventedthese Far who the East from back coming seafarers the was it that is thought It hallmarks. city’s the roofs “scissor” famous the and verandas, wrought-iron with houses grand is arow of there side, other the On abit. to linger just nice be would with a lavish medallion of shell shapes on the façade. The Misericórdia Church (Mercy) is regarded is regarded (Mercy) Church Misericórdia The façade. the on shapes shell of medallion alavish with nave, one with church is amajestic Santiago of Church Main the front, in Right Monument. National city) the of part (the old Adentro the in Located walk. awonderful own, Tavira of convents its on and is, churches the of tour The Tavira in to see too. aremany churches there and streets beautiful very some has city The scissors. of apair of blades open the like looked frame timber initial the because roof ascissor as known became construction of type This countrymen. fellow their envy, of even or admiration, the ensured houses building of way different this trade, spice the in made had they fortunes the off to show with their four sloping sides. This is the popular name for the roofs which are one of of areone which roofs the for name popular is the This sides. sloping four their with , the Main Church of Santa Maria do Castelo is classified as a is classified Castelo do Maria Santa of Church Main , the

Tavira - salt pans Tavira – Four-sided roofs Convent of São Francisco Francisco Convent São of Former the convents, the Amongst style. rococo 1760from interesting an in dating tiles has church The 1425. in founded was which Santo Espírito do Albergaria as known formerly Hospital, do José São of church the is also There façade. imposing an with Algarve, (16th building the in century) Renaissance best the as Tavira Vila- 1 2

TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 5 1 2

TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 6 fact that seven of his horsemen were treacherously killed while hunting in the surrounding area. surrounding the in hunting while killed treacherously were his horsemen of seven that fact the for reprisal in about came city the on attack the that it has tradition part, its For Peres Correia. Paio 1242, in tells that, D. by Algarve the of Moors the Tavira from Conquest taken the was of Chronicle The to operate. last the was Tavira the on coast, located Cascas das at Medo net The killing. of place words other in (kill), darab and (place) -alma “almadrava” tuna catching for net fixed the called Arabs The Sicilians. and Genoese Phoenicians, the to known already was which fishing, of way this about into amuseum it made and dwellings fishermen’s the of one into preserved ahotel, turned today Neto, Ferreira Arraial The stored. was fish tuna catching for equipment the and housed were families their and fishermen where is abuilding this country: the in “arraial” only the has city The in. sheltering for aport as and fishing in Taviragiven advantages the of proximity the immemorial, time Since Misericórdia. da Porta the and houses, the between visible still it, surrounding walls the with along system defensive city’s the of part was which castle the and Galeria da Palácio centre the in exhibition arethe missed to not be things Other city. the centre of historical the in them of both highlights, arethe Pity) of Lady (Our Piedade da Senhora Convent Nossa of (14th 16th the and century century) Cachopo – Detail of the traditional architecture Ria Formosa Ria has has simple ochre the colour of the sun, or burned like the earth, earth, the like burned or sun, the of colour the ochre simple a blood, bull’s red or tone to apinkish diluted ochre, Red whitewash. with mixed pigments natural from made colours 1930s, the in bright decorated with to be began Algarve the in decorated their with houses style rural the ER 397; for the open eye an to keep is time it leaving on is get to to Tavira objective first Our amosque. from developed Maria Santa of Church the and standing still wall the in towers of areanumber There heritage. Arab is its architecture city’s the about Tavira. in is striking What locate many historians which have survived, Balsa of city Roman the of traces No parapets . The fronts of houses houses of fronts . The Cachopo , on , on

Cachopo Tavira - Arraial Ferreira Neto in the Serra do Caldeirão. The village of of village The Caldeirão. do Serra the in Palheirinhos the hillsof undulating the follows road The leaves. or eyes cobs, maize stylised ones, aresecular motifs decorative The sea. the of blue luminous the ash, and smoke from derived black a flavour of the Alentejo, and 8km later we get get laterto we 8km and Alentejo, the of a flavour at menhir the of mysteries past accessto the only The Mealha to get we workers, road by ago many years planted broom, by bordered aroad on northeast Heading tomato. with eggs and cherries, with chicken pennyroyal), with dishflavoured (a bread-based poejo” de “açorda rabbit, mountain arewild here tried be can which dishes aromatic local the of Some chimneys. decorated see can we harnesses, and saddles make who workshops, saddler’s and blacksmith’s the for looking go we As worked. arepatiently wool and cotton Linen, scarves. to delicate curtains heavy the In the itself, village the In trees. the see can we village to 16th small this entrance century Th operation. It stands to next the Ribeira do Vascão, in the direction of Portela (5km) with signs on the road. in is still that few the of is one schist, of entirely built mill, Chavachã the area, surrounding the In direction. asoutherly in vaguely pointing there” is over Algarve “The say people where places those of is one It Algarve. the and Alentejo the between somewhere as far as northeast to the 4km another for going We keep oaks. cork the between in colour of plenty add cistus and lavender, heather white the In thatched. and conical are roofs the schist, of pieces assembled carefully of aremade walls thick Their barns. as nowadays arethe there Around, found. were decoration personal for artefacts and stones split where monument at this times to pre-historic back go we Unexpectedly (Archers) and the affectionate affectionate the and (Archers) Saddler e tour now continues on the EN 2 heading south. Unusual place names appear such as as such appear names place Unusual south. EN 2heading the on continues now e tour traditional weaving traditional . is 4 km away and after a further dozen kilometres we get to get we kilometres dozen afurther after and away is 4km spectacular countryside spectacular Cachopo Museum Cachopo workshop “Lançadeira”, everything is woven on the eight looms, from from looms, eight the on is woven everything “Lançadeira”, workshop Catraia , meaning “little girl”. “little , meaning Peralva barrocal (5km) is the final landmark before before (5km)landmark final is the Ameixial expressively illustrates the identity of the Serra. the of identity the illustrates expressively . The turn off off to turn . The Anta das Pedras Altas Pedras das Anta round houses round , with deep ravines and high rounded hills, the the hills, rounded high and ravines deep , with Fonte Férrea Corte João Marques João Corte . The village has remained quiet, hesitating hesitating quiet, remained has village . The Picota , of Celtic origin, which are used areused which origin, Celtic , of , which is surrounded by leafy leafy by is surrounded , which , takes us to a viewing point. point. us to aviewing , takes Água dos Fusos dos Água is on foot. foot. is on , a place name with with name , aplace Cachopo Besteiros . At the . At the

already already

1 2

TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 7 1 2

TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 8 We now take the EN 270 heading east and after 2 km we follow the signs to signs the follow we 2km after and EN 270 east the We take now heading flowers. with decorated lavishly candles carry men-folk the which in Torches, aprocession of Festival annual the site for is the point, viewing isexcellent an there where Church, Main the of churchyard The style. popular the in houses with alternate tiles in clad façades and verandas iron with the in especially history, long this of town the in is evidence There carob. and almond of flavour omnipresent the with sweets regional as well as handicraft of items to find is easy it sun). villages, these In (blazing Soalheira (mosque) and price), low Mesquita very at a Tesoureiro (dumb (selling woman’s (treasurer), Muda da Cova grave), boar), (wild Desbarato Javali Tareja as such names (Teresa), strange with areplaces there around, clearly. All across area comes In windmill. is arestored there Nearby cuisine. regional best the enjoy can you where restaurant the of windows the from view fine a affords and to get we before long is not it south, Heading specialities. rural inimitable herbs, aromatic with seasoned meat game of dishes arealso There sausages. and ham) presunto (smoked into tasty turned arethen and acorns the on feed pigs Black from. comes best the where that is and hills the through flows oaks cork of plantation A majestic almonds. and figs carried they the on plot) a vegetable and garden a (both Arab “chenchir” the to firewood and honey, to medronho take used they when time the from fro, to and news and goods carrying passed, muleteers the is where This areas. inland the and coast the between link main the time at that was which road the on acrossroads all above but waters, from 2km We only arenow trees. to closer get we As metres high, an excellent area for relaxing with its deep pool which is perfect for swimming. for is perfect which pool deep its with relaxing area for excellent an high, metres is the beautiful most The waterfalls. their with weirs small feeds which Estêvão Santo century. last the since little changed comes Then there. still village The south.

São Brás de Alportel de Brás São Barranco do Velho - Cork appears in a valley of lush vegetation with the the with vegetation lush of avalley in appears olive-oil press olive-oil Cortelha Pereiro coast the unmistakable importance of the town as a centre of the cork growing growing cork the acentre as town of the of importance unmistakable the , we can appreciate the cultivated terraces and the imposing eucalyptus eucalyptus imposing the and terraces cultivated the appreciate can , we . On the return journey they would bring dried fish and in the the in fishand dried bring would they journey return the . On , 6km away,, 6km Barranco do Velho do Barranco (lagar) has been turned into a restaurant, but the olive trees are trees olive the but into arestaurant, turned been has (lagar) Foupana Alportel and a tiny village, village, atiny and , once a thermal station sought after for its cool cool its for after sought station athermal , once and the Pousada, which is strategically located located is strategically which Pousada, the and Ribeira da Asseca da Ribeira historical centre historical Pego do Inferno do Pego Estiramantens Mesquita cork , flowing through, through, , flowing . Grand houses houses . Grand where we turn turn we where , which has has , which in the world world the in , which is 5 , which barrocal

Handicraft - Barranco do Velho style with carved masonry work. masonry carved with style Manueline the in door side magnificent equally an and façade asplendid with Tavira de Luz in square main at the ends road The And now we are back in in areback we now And begun. just has which 3rd millennium, the throughout live certainly will It rested. all farmers and traders sailors, crusaders, shade, its In light. provided them from extracted oil the and Arabs, and Suevi Romans, Carthaginians, Greeks, peoples, primitive nourished tree this from Olives spontaneously. ”zambujeiro” a where tree, the of inside to the door of kind a also is there trunk: hole-filled the round arms their wrap men to five takes tree olive a nature: by created one this but monument, another of village fishing to the detour ashort making is worth It amêndoa” (made with almonds), “fios de ovos” (egg thread to by boat. Finally, we shall treat ourselves to some of the local sweets, the “D. Rodrigo”, the “morgados de the of side seaward the from fish the tuna, with made dishes being , located in Pedras D’el Rei. It It D’el Rei. Pedras in , located two-thousand-year-old two-thousand-year-old , next to the to the , next a wild olive, developed developed olive, awild Santa Tavira church to see to see , in time to try out the excellent excellent the out to try time , in Ilha de Tavira de Ilha cataplanas

made with molluscs caught in the the in caught molluscs with made , where there is an idyllic beach that you can only get get only can you that beach isidyllic an there , where s), and miniatures of fish, flowers andfruit. cuisine with the highlight inevitably inevitably highlight the with Ria Formosa Ria , the , the

Tavira - Ria Formosa São Brás de Alportel 1 2

TOUR OF THE SERRA SOTAVENTO 9 1 3

TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 0 Pomegranates expertise of centuries. of expertise accumulated the and potteries, and looms of produce the find can we serra the in And past. at times a look away, have have moved will we people as museums into turned have been schools where places In Odeleite. in river the by places eating little the of any fishin freshwater the enjoy can we beauty, its in have we taken Once Guadiana. meandering the on discerned be can dreamers today’s of sails the where from castles mediaeval enchanted and menhirs pre-historic with places find we between In landscape. Alentejo-like an in –lost lively –and town young unusually an Longo, Martim that is mirage the to figures, dark humans, by guarded areonly which shrubs, low of landscapes From the Algarve. the to water half provides that aquifers of group extensive to the Marim Castro of houses whitewashed the and castle the by guarded salt-marsh extensive the from tour: this on landscapes Algarve different three the We enjoy shall between. in barrocal the and serra the hillsof the coast, the divide clear, that –less course, of borders other but course, great water the is not border the where and Portugal; in waters warmest into the runs river peninsular O n this tour, we shall see the place where the weary weary the where place tour, the n this see shall we 1 3 TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 1 1 TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 32 1 TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 33 +/- 1 163km 3

TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 4 Castro Marim Castro flavours. and smells colours, with reciprocates nature harmony. And remarkable in here, living from species other preventing without but his mark, left man where enchanting travelled peoples different which on south, the of river the We follow will Al-Andaluz. of time at the founded, or knew, Arabs the which alcarias of acircuit round go we as culture, age-old an of secrets the of search in Guadiana The Castro Marim

Guadiana Tour the of

through through (tiny villages) (tiny villages)

will take us take will landscapes landscapes , the great , the , the starting point for this tour is one of the oldest places in the Algarve, with evidence evidence with Algarve, the in places oldest the of is tour one this for point starting , the century. The old castle dating from the 11th the from dating castle old and The century. 14th the in Christ of Order the of headquarters To start with, we shall visit the the visit shall we with, To start waters. shallow by surrounded island an sea, the to closer was the town and different was Guadiana the of mouth the At time, that D.by Peres Correia. Paio 1242, until centuries four re-conquered was it when about for lasted which rule, of period their during importance to its added Arabs The Mediterranean. the from flowed trade here, Through Beja. and Mértola Alcoutim, through passing to Lisbon, river the follow would which here through road a built Romans The stands. castle present-day the where spot the on themselves to defend fort a built they here: resources metal the exploiting people were there B.C., 5000 as ago long As here. settlement ancient an been having there of Castle,

Rio Guadiana Rio limits of the mediaeval town. town. mediaeval the of limits 14th the were and and centuries 13th the in built were which walls defensive the by surrounded space, open an in 12th stands centuries Church stands in the Praça 1º de Maio, with a fine panel of panel afine 1º with Maio, Praça de the in stands Church Main The architecture. traditional of pattern the colour,in follow bordered windows and doors their with houses, whitewashed The marshes. the and pans salt the Guadiana, the over view unparalleled an provides it ahilltop, on Located integral part of the walls that enclosed all the houses and of which some stretches can still be seen. be still can stretches some which of and houses the all enclosed that walls the of part integral the seen be hillscan nearby two On versatility. and imagination with developed Portuguese the which Castro Marim Stork Chapel of Santo António Santo of Chapel Continuing with one’s feet on terra firma and one’s eyes eyes one’s and firma terra on feet one’s with Continuing ashort to on go possible river, the it is of attractions the resist to is difficult it If country. the of parts other in spot to difficult and arerare which of some many others, among heron white the and over, flying flamingos see to difficult is not it but here, birds resident the of is one heron The to reproduce. crustaceans and molluscs fish, for place is aspecial it and here winter, numerous the In vegetation. no areas with large and pasture salt-marsh, pools, salt-pans, includes it and Portugal in created be to Reserve Nature first the was This colour.of balance adelicate land, little too nor water much too António Santo de Real Vila and Marim Castro of Salt-Marsh the of Reserve to the river, close Guadiana the of banks the on located being of privilege the enjoys town The area. the of aretypical which white of mountains the on salt the up pile they as tools, unchanging their and salt-makers, the of movements age-old the see can You sky. the of blue the against out standing pyramids white the sun, the in shine crystals minute The nearby. pans salt the to see river the near garden You to the have to down go just azulejos and the the and bird . (tiles). Tile making is an Arab art art isArab an making . (tiles). Tile species seek food and shelter shelter and food seek species cruise Fort of S. Sebastião S. of Fort , where there is neither is neither there , where upstream. Nature Nature storks , an , an , Castro Marim – Castle 1 3 TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 5 1 3

TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 6 After a few more curves in the road, we can see water in between the hills. hills. the between in water see can we road, the in curves more afew After to resist. easy be not will it aroma, special that producing rabbit fried or soup ahare with stove the ham). on is apot presunto (smoked there If best of two or aslice and ewe’s cheese the trying is worth it “tascas”, little or cafés the of at one stop you if and slope cattle. and plots cultivated protect walls schist the and looms, weaving river. In the of direction 16: the in there km turn after to route Alcoutim, alternative to the signpost the miss not do direction, anortherly in continue we As used. arestill methods traditional where Shop, “A the in made Prova”Pastry women, by the trying first without You leave Azinhal cannot wood. oleander of are made thread cotton the hold which bobbins The embroidery. the to hold areused which needles the by is pierced card, thick on pattern, The purpose. this for especially made basket awicker on is supported apillow, which on areused bobbins The produce. other and figs dried to sell Antwerp of port to the travelled who traders by Algarve the brought to been haveto thought is and from Flanders originally came Lace-making plants. different of The making. lace bobbin of delicate the for time have still and fields, the after family, look the of care take who ones the still are They community. the in women of role at the look adetailed provides Centre and Cultural Azinhal is the unusual more Even Spain. and Guadiana the over view amagnificent has use, in not although windmill, nearby The cusp. asmall nave and around alighthouse, resembling acupola with is unusual, village the of side The Algarve. the in named thus villages six of is one oaks” holm grove of to get we on further kilometres adozen Half neighbours. to away the chatting while doorways, in made being items with street, the in is done that something in clear becomes it road, same the on north Heading paradise. of piece this small about more out to find place ideal the Reserve, to turn-off the banks, river the on Museum lace-makers of Azinhal of lace-makers Monte Francisco Monte “O Saber das Mulheres” (The Expertise of Women) which is in the isthe in Women) of which Expertise (The Mulheres” das Saber “O

bobbin lace making Azinhal regional sweets regional Fonte do Penedo Fonte do , on the IC27 takes us to the headquarters of the the of headquarters us to the takes IC27 the , on Junqueira . This enchanting village, whose name means “a means name whose village, enchanting . This created leaf-shaped lace, inspired by the leaves leaves the by lace, inspired leaf-shaped created that the making of of making the that , another example of produce made made produce of example , another Alcaria the low houses conceal conceal houses low the Main Church Main Foz Odeleite de is at the top of a gentle agentle top of is at the handicrafts , on the eastern eastern the , on is atiny craft craft

is

Azinhal It would be nice to stop for a while in a place called called aplace in awhile for to nice stop be would It Carthaginians. the of time the since activity fishing its of and river Guadiana the of history the river).tells It of the of (warriors area is a like surrounding the that see can we bridge, the crossed Having Guadiana. into the flows river the where spot the near a ravine above perched village, goes by the unusual and beautiful name of of name beautiful and unusual the by goes The river. Fornalha the from water storing for used was it buttresses; six and walls thick with period, same the from long metres 40 dam anotable as well as to 4km than is less It boats. sailing just or to From time time moorings. small arealso there river, to the where down going vineyards and plots vegetable and Guadiana, the of bank the of slopes highest Guerreiros do Rio Museum of the River the of Museum Álamo natural paradise natural has pride of place in this village that that village this in place of pride has where a Roman villa was discovered, discovered, was villa aRoman where traditional fishing traditional Guerreiros do Rio do Guerreiros with houses on the the on houses with boats pass by, pass boats Montinho das Laranjeiras das Montinho . Guerreiros do Rio

the the of lanes narrow the Through bank. opposite Guadiana river. and road the in bend asharp after hillside Alcoutim 11ththe 12th and centuries. in here built was that a villa of ruins the by to testified as area, the liked also Romans The service. of many years match its to decor with Alcoutim, of municipality whole the in tavern Álamo old city old o visit the oldest oldest the ovisit then appears on a on appears then is the town on the the on town is the , you can get to the to the get can , you San Lucar del del Lucar San

Fishing nets 1 3 TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 7 1 3

TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 8 Here we can go on a short detour to visit the the to visit detour ashort on go can we Here decorated. arelavishly them of Some loads. to carry neck their on animals by worn harnesses a hous The Alentejo. the like almost look here Algarve the making plateau, rocky the covers and resin a strong exudes cistus The memories”. of construction “The theme to the dedicated EN to 124 to later on the get we turn We then kilometres nine and doorways. their in cane and wicker with work who as far as south EN 122, the with turn we junction At the scenery. magnificent the towords describe arefew There dam. Alcoutim the surrounding area us to the takes which town, leave the we to turning the take shall we this for Algarve: the of northeast into the more abit to delve time is now It bank. left the on people Andalusian the with ties close forging up ended which Guadiana, the of banks rocky the amongst in smuggling to with do secrets areother There enchanted. becoming love, their in frustrated princesses, Moorish beautiful and knights brave tell of They castle. aremyriad There future”. to the past the “From exhibition the in projects, museological to up today’s B.C: 5000 from display on remains arearchaeological there booked, Gallery the in and history of centuries to many witness bear walls strong Its iron. wrought of gate made fine a by is protected door main The there. are still walls the of most and loopholes battlements, the region, the from schist the using Built point. viewing excellent an for,cared provide areperfectly which castle, the of gardens The church. mediaeval 1538 1554, between and built a of place in Algarve, the in buildings Renaissance first the of one was Church Main The Alcoutim. of counts the of house country the and António St of Chapel the Church, (Mercy) Misericórdia go the to should you 16th first but century, Alcoutim of Castle saddle-maker , for which guided tours can be be can tours guided which , for Corte Tabelião Corte Balurcos legends , making , making which was built in the the in built was which es are immaculately white and sometimes have ovens outside. It is easy to find to find is easy It have outside. ovens sometimes and white areimmaculately es where a short stop will enable us to spend some time with the the with time some us to spend enable will stop ashort where colourful miniatures colourful involving the the involving Castle Castle EN122-1) as Alcarias in between the real work of making saddles and and saddles making of real work the between in . To to get Alcaria Queimada Alcaria View ofAlcoutim Castle Lucar –San delGuadiana Pereiro . Its small museum is museum small . Its , you go through through go , you craftspeople Alcoutim

and then then and is Cima Cova de Alcaria Once again on the EN 124, the on again Once reach we bridge. the near is awater-mill There ducks. aremallard there water to the getting on and many birds way, see the can On you remains. arearchaeological there where Relics) of (Hill Relíquias shoemak The village. the of point highest at the stands church century to to on move is time It headaches. chronic of arecured church to the next stands which tree olive the of trunk the in hole the in heads their put who people that it has Legend streets. narrow the in away is hidden building, mediaeval simply. These are old areold simply. These unmoved by time and with its identity intact. The The intact. identity its with and time by unmoved 10the to km cover we countryside, schistose through to Returning water. the by is softened feel rugged the where landscape of kind is adifferent This Foupana da Ribeira the along stretch and names place Arab their have kept hills which Alcaria de Baixo de Alcaria a little further on on further alittle er of Giões are famous. To get to the Ribeira do Vascão we have to go through Cerro das das Cerro have we to through go Vascão do To Ribeira to the get arefamous. Giões of er Alcaria Clarines Pereiro , quite , quite

, , . Giões where the streets follow the gentle contours of the hills. Its 15th Its hills. the of contours gentle the follow streets the where Martinlongo Ermida da Oliveira da Ermida , the most populous village on the plateau of plateauof the on village populous most , the Alcoutim made-to-measure shoes crafted by the the by crafted shoes made-to-measure (Chapel of the Olive Tree), Olive the of (Chapel a Rio Guadiana Rio Pereiro 1 3 TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 9 140 TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO The places here, known as “montes” (hills) are only home to a few dozen inhabitants and follow one one follow and inhabitants to dozen afew home (hills) “montes” as areonly known here, places The to more afew is just it and is 24 It from village. km the after 1km 506 EM the leaving south head we Here Estrada. da In roots. and branches old from himself made he which animals miniature of collection incredible an made has craftsman pa we 506, EM the of stretch beautiful a particularly On belfry. to the next nesting arestorks there Church, Main the In “live”. history of 1800 years cover some dwellings old artefacts, mines, Old region. the in In to 506 EM 12 the is only It along km alternatives. aredelicious peas chick or lamb from Stews made ewe’s cheese. local the of terms In into abell-tower. turned now is preserved, minaret the which from mosque, old an originally was Church Main The Martinlongo. in workshop ceramics and pottery at the to chance have alook the miss don’t Also, ahistory. and name a given areall reapers and shepherds “models”. Wood-cutters, original the of names the are given which region the from figures typical portray miniatures The Needle). the of (Flower Agulha” “A de called Flor sacking from dolls making for here a workshop of A group castle. aRoman of ruins the (2km) are there Castelo do Cerro the on Toyears! southwest, the in long or stature in long was he is whether known is not What “long”. very was who Martim called inhabitant an from comes village the of name the that says History Pereirão. do Cumeada

Cova dos Mouros Fortim Mouros Cova dos , there a “casa de pasto”, a café, which is decorated in an original way, and then comes Monte Monte way,comes then and original an in is pasto”, decorated de a“casa which acafé, , there craftswomen gastronomy, , there is a mining park which tells the story of iron and the extraction of metals metals of extraction the and iron of story tells the which park is amining , there Anta das Pedras Altas Pedras das Anta set up up set the highlights are honey, bread, sausages, regional sweets and and sweets regional sausages, arehoney, bread, highlights the Vaqueiros

Martilongo – Handicraft , where one of the Algarve’s hidden treasures awaits us. us. awaits treasures hidden Algarve’s the of one , where . ss through through ss

Nandu Fernandilho , a village where a where , avillage a then then 509, through EM pass the we On below. valley the through meandering (brook) to to get is easy It houses. the up brightening motifs traditional Algarve. the of parts different the by provided are that pleasures the all of advantage taking like feels one add, would we And, sceptical!...” or responsible, being from apart everything, doing like I feel homeland.... one’s in holiday a dayon is always me for Algarve “The tour: the to conclude is perfect that aquotation in Torga Miguel , writer Trás-os-Montes the of words the recall can we meantime, the The serra. the of landscape rural the see can we other the on while road, the of side one on seen be can beaches kilometres, 30 For Algarve. the in roads beautiful most the of one on of direction the in south We turn fright. in air to the take partridges and sing, Larks rises. smoke of aplume ovens burning wood- the from and , gentle their sing (6km). water-wheels and Mills Marroquil through go we 509 EM the on back once village; last the from aroad on reach can you which reservoir the of to our starting point: point: starting to our (A 22) to return motorway Infante do Via the of facility modern the of advantage take we then and weirs, and springs of streams, and rivers the of waters fresh the by shaped life, daily on stamp their put still traditions where past, the of smells the amongst to end an comes of village the and sea the as far as continues which Cacela de to signs the to follow is easy It friendliness. and hospitality exude doors, open their with and, chimneys, typical by topped are houses The irrigation. for used be to river the of waters the allowing side to side from valley the crossed which dam aRoman of remains arestill there hillswhere the and coast the between point atransitional Rita, Santa from 1km is only scenery, the fter another at just a few kilometres distance, silhouettes of the culture of the serra, with colour and and colour with serra, the of culture the of silhouettes distance, kilometres afew at just another fter Alcarias Grandes Alcarias , the rural side of the parish, parish, the of side rural , the Cacela Velha Cacela Cortelha Castro Marim Castro - a name which occurs several times on this tour – which is on the banks banks the is on –which tour this on times several occurs which -aname Parque da Rocha dos Corvos dos Rocha da Parque meanwhile enjoying a magnificent view over the the over view amagnificent enjoying meanwhile . This tour tour . This Vila Nova Nova Vila Santa Rita Santa . In . In , passing through the picturesque Corte de António Martis Martis António de Corte picturesque the through , passing , which is a nice place to stop and enjoy enjoy and to stop is place anice , which Ribeira do Beliche do Ribeira Corte do Gago do Corte and and

Cistus Beliche Dam 141 TOUR OF THE GUADIANA SOTAVENTO 14

TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 2 Ria Formosa returning to the capital, to rest. capital, to the returning before Algarve tour, this on adifferent smell shall we And Algarve. the of typical areso which vegetation hillsand roads, at the We marvel shall serra. the of hills to the back go to shall we Aljezur, journey the On cake. almond and figs like sweets delicious to Totreatourselves will we with, finish Lagos. or Pêra de Armação fishin to barbecued Aljezur in potato sweet from ham) Monchique, presunto in (smoked to Albufeira in cataplanas from flavours: different through humankind celebrate shall we history; of asense it giving and it humanising beaches, the of vastness the on around dotted boats watch their shall we sustenance; day’s next catch the will which nets the sewing hands cracked skilled, see shall we sea; emerald the against out standing houses white thoughts: our from far be never also will people But beaches. to unexpected down going and cliffs up Navigator, the climbing Henry Prince of land the as far as slopes the Along gullies. hidden and retreats sandy of caves, and rocks cliffs, of Algarve the through travelling capital, the in ending and Starting south. the agreat of tour enjoy will we Europe, of west to the Algarve the centre From of the between. F rom one sea to another, with the hills of the serra in in serra the hillsof the to sea another, with one rom 14

TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 3 144 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 145 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO +/- 351km 146 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO The Porta Nova opens directly on to one of of to on one directly opens Nova Porta The Tourism into and aHotel School. turned and restored been now has which name, same Convent the of the for setting is the the has which Francisco, São de Largo access to the gives Arco Repouso do Bívar. The Manuel Jardim the facing front its with side, one on palace Governor’s have the will we Vila, da Arco the choose we 17th If walls. century gatesthe in three the any of through there We get seen. be can Seminary Episcopal the Town the and Hall rested, III D. Afonso where Arco Repouso, do the Assunção, da Senhora Convent Nossa of the Cathedral, the where at the have alook we should first but origins, ancient of Algarve from off We set Algarve. the of parts other of diversity the about out to chance find the Sotavento or east the in arestaying who people gives that atour Barlavento, the in Algarve the of parts westerly most us to the take will The perhaps going to the Alto de Santo António SantoAntónio de Alto to the going perhaps in, time more spending is worth city The floors. two on cloister unusual its with Museum Archaeological is the there Assunção, da Senhora Nossa of Convent old the In sea. the of waters the by south the on and city the of buildings modern the by side northern the on centre, surrounded historic the of whole the seen be tower can From its imposing. and gothic cathedral, the stands walls the Inside Science. Live Centre for the and harbour us to the takes which Ria the in canals the “Tour beyond the Sotavento” the “Tour beyond Ria Formosa Ria Faro Vila Adentro Vila , the capital of the the of capital , the

as a backdrop, and and abackdrop, as the old city city old the

Faro, Carmo church Faro, Cathedral signposted to signposted road to on the turn we it, areleaving we as then, and other to the side one from town We the cross dreams. one’s of holidays the on niente” “dolce fare the of delights the provides that and Algarve the of beauty natural the on luxurious the of proximity the given found, be is in It house. rural old restored, acarefully in is housed which Centre Cultural the as well or going out to the Ilha de de Ilha to the out going or Ladies) Moorish Velhas (Old Mouras of houses traditional the between passing the and Our next stopping point is point stopping next Our beach. marvellous its of because resort into a tourist turned was that village fishing the azulejos in is clad inside whose church small its admire in briefly stopping Almancil, towards EN 125 the on journey our to continue opt shall we But Faro. Almancil (painted tiles), as (painted Carmo Church Carmo S.Lourenço Quarteira

and the surrounding area that some of the best known restaurants in the Algarve can can Algarve the in restaurants known best the of areasome that surrounding the and to , . There are other routes, but on this road with its gentle curves, we head for for head we curves, gentle its with road this on but routes, areother . There Vilamoura , and its its , and tourist resorts tourist Marina filled with boats and sophisticated sophisticated and boats with filled , built in a way that does not impinge impinge not does that away in , built Vilamoura Marina

São Lourenço Cultural Centre 147 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 148 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO And then we get to get we then And facilities. sporting and tourist of range a with cliffs coloured Balaia in briefly stopping Albufeira, towards to head Vilamoura of north to the exit the take will we roads, to secondary Sticking past. the us of remind villa Roman the of ruins restored the and Vila da Cerro of museum the culture, of terms In discos. the in dancing go or casino, at the ashow with day the You off here. round can However, is it gardens. ample the in cycling or riding go You walks, for go can sports. arewater there beach, magnificent the Falésia on and marina At the want. you anything almost do can you Vilamoura, In species. different ahundred about amongst nest, gallinules purple and bitterns where Quarteira, de Ribeira the of beds reed to the an is even there and complex leisure into excellent an turned been has Quarteira de Quinta former The shops. and terraces of surroundings and Ponta do Castelo, there is much to is enjoy. much there Castelo, do Ponta and Rafael São through passing to Galé, Baleeira from to west, east from Continuing seas. turquoise-blue and sand fine of beaches marvellous the along is to ramble Albufeira in nice is really what But architecture. traditional of details some centre with old the includes end western The Albufeira. area of tourist the of heart the Laranja, to Meia streets narrow the through walk will we at Bandeira, Pau da point viewing to the avisit After mouth. river the and sea the overlooking position invincible an Vila, da Cerro the on settled they because (fortress) Buhera Al it called Arabs The sand. light-coloured with beaches and cliffs golden its with Environmental Park Environmental

a beach surrounded by by surrounded a beach golf that is king is king that Albufeira , next , next ,

Albufeira, Pescadores Beach Golf Course Ponta da Senhora da Rocha. da Senhora da Ponta to Galé da Ponta from stretches which Pêra de Armação us to takes Albufeira, of west take we 526, which number road regional The the different peoples who lived in the the in lived who peoples different the for dwellings as served Carvoeiro near caves coastal these centuries, the Over Roazes. dos Gruta the or Pintal do Gruta into the ways secret the to to know get trip boat a to take place right is the Carvoeiro Cabo the and cliffs, the in hidden caves many the for area is fascinating This Terrace).(Lover’s Namorados dos Varanda romantic the Seco at sea the and wind the by sculpted formations rock unusual the are km away 1 than Less boats. fishing colourful the shelters which beach the overlook hillsides the on houses The Lagoa In land. the of ochre the and sea the of blue the decoration: its in Algarve the of colours the of use makes which apiece or miniature adelicate either asouvenir, buying for ideal shops many with activity, important an still is production ceramics traditional to on move We then capitals. Visigoth its with chapel the and fort, Roman old to the Rocha da of point viewing natural the to going of chance the miss not Do abit. for stopping like feel you if terraces, café arenumerous there centre,the town In sun. the reflecting sand golden fine the against repeatedly lapping blue, area of immense an and seas calm with beach huge its than serene more is nothing There , with its fantastic shapes and and shapes fantastic its with , we turn off for for off turn , we , at the top of the cliff next next cliff the top of , at the , on a huge bay bay ahuge , on Porches Carvoeiro Algar Algar Senhora Senhora , where , where .

Carvoeiro Handicraft 149 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 150 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO arcades of the bridge. There There bridge. the of arcades the under restaurants the of ambience typical the in away straight yourself immerse can you then and river the of branches Portimão house. aprivate nowadays castle, gracious asmall, in ends of Ferragudo bay The sea. the of out fish of full nets the pulling for iron) used (pointed agudo” a “ferro the of bank left the on way to your find easily will you and signs the follow direction, awesterly in Continuing 1561. in Rome in published was which another on based Portugal, Carvoeiro do Cabo corsairs. and pirates by attacks against defence as a or accessto for fishing either area, The white churches and and churches white The tiles. in clad walls and doors, and windows the on work masonry carved verandas, wrought-iron their with houses, two-storey the in is distinctive, century 20th early and 19th century late the of architecture centre, the old the In on. further metres afew port sardines the to try place better is no which arrive in the the in arrive which stretches away on the right bank. You to get bank. right the on away stretches was of such strategic importance that it appears on the first map printed in printed map first the on appears it that importance strategic such of was Rio Arade Rio . The name explains the origin of the village: on the coast there was was there coast the on village: the of origin the explains name . The Portimão by crossing over one of the the of one over crossing by Ferragudo ,

Portimão Marina Ferragudo centuries-old city. centuries-old as a character Portimão’s define that features the of are some quarter traders’ and fishermen’s old the of streets narrow the The The city. the on mark its left that tourism was it century, 20th the in and industries, canning and fishing the centre for important an 19th became the it century, 15th the of middle In century. the in developed Portimão of city modern the Discoveries, Portuguese the With region. the on mark their left and Arade the up sailed all Arabs and Romans Carthaginians, Greeks, Phoenicians, The EN 125 takes us to the picturesque village of of village EN 125The picturesque us to the takes waters. the intodives thesun as fly birds of hundreds where landscapes different The stone. red of cliffs magnificent between hidden sand golden of stretch is ahuge part, at Alvor, its for beach The sand. light-coloured the above stand rocks imposing of shapes fantastic The Portugal. in beaches beautiful most the of This is not the normal way to enter the city, but it is certainly one of the nicest. The beach at beach The nicest. the of one is certainly it but to city, way enter the normal the is not This enjoyed. be can through pass we sea, Praia Marina , stretching away as far as the eye can see, and framed by green hills, ends at the at the ends hills, green by framed and see, can eye the as far as away , stretching

is a pleasant area, with an artificial beach which is a continuation of is a which continuation beach artificial an with area, is apleasant

Ria de Alvor de Ria Palmares

is sometimes referred to as a hidden paradise, a surprising enclave of of enclave asurprising paradise, to ahidden as referred is sometimes and get to get and

Praia da Rocha Meia Praia Meia Odeáxere

from where a fine view over the bay of bay the over view afine where from

and if we cross it in the direction of the the of direction the in it cross we if and da Praia Marina Lagos, Praia Meia Meia Meia , on the the , on Lagos one one

151 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 15

TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 2 We enter a different Algarve, that of the the of that WeAlgarve, enter adifferent almond. and threads egg delicate its with D. Rodrigo, the sweet, essential that with Finish cataplana. atasty or steak tuna adelicious to not mention whelks, with stew abean eel, with made a stew local the and sea the between course of connection is aclose There horizon. to the stretching vastness blue the feet, at your bay the with there You stand can missed. The walls. the and castle the museums, churches, its visiting worth is well It populace. the from welcome warm the by impressed so was he 1573, in Algarve to the because ajourney after acity, of status to it the elevated Sebastião D. King history: of are part Lagos of people the of nature welcoming and friendliness The Algarve. the in cities beautiful most the of one in sea, the with intimacy long-standing the with along is preserved, cosmopolitanism Today old the worlds. 16th new of search in century, the of saga great the on off set caravels the that bay this from was It city. the of edge The Promontory ofSagres Ponta da Piedade da Ponta Barlavento , when we get to get we , when , in turn, is another place that should not be be not should that place is another turn, , in cuisine Vila do Bispo do Vila tempting dishes include include dishes tempting . Here you should should you . Here Vila doBispo go on the the on go needed and didn’t have. didn’t and needed there people the which inland carried were things which along Caldeirão, the then and Monchique Tour the on is go to suggestion Another felt. be can the Atlantic off coming winds the where can watch their arrival or departure, a unique spectacle which can take several days. several take can which spectacle aunique departure, or arrival watch their can you luck, of abit given sometimes, birds, of number alarge of route migratory the is on Sagres as and, area,this to areunique which plant species dozen several here find will part, their for botanists, Keen imaginations. our in for yearn we that found, be can beach perfect the of paradigm that where empty, almost many beaches, tiny hiding often and waves the of spray furious into the down dropping high, metres 60 are cliffs The Europe. in and Portugal in point south-westerly most the is the away throw astone’s Just moon. went the to astronauts when later centuries five until parallel without was that adventure an New Worlds, finding seaand to putting of epic magnificent the In continue. imposingness and magic later the centuries 22 way”. Almost along for stretches coast rocky the and boil seas choppy The Saturn. to dedicated cliffs frightening with apromontory is then There monsters. by inhabited ocean, the of water salt into the goes and Europe rich the of point extreme the as proudly emerges down, goes light sidereal the Cynete where Cape, “the way: following the in Avienos Festus to get we Finally of beach at the alook having as well as cake), (honey mel” de “bolo and eel moray fried delicious the trying without town leave the We cannot , starting here, going through the Serra de Espinhaço de Cão, and then crossing the hills around hillsaround the crossing then and Cão, de Espinhaço de Serra the through going here, , starting fortress Tour Menhirs of , the presence of Prince Henry the Navigator can be felt: this is where he dreamed up the the up dreamed he is where this felt: be can Navigator the Henry Prince of presence , the Sagres , the legendary promontory. In 350 A.D. it was described by the Roman Rufus Rufus Roman the by described was it 350 In A.D. promontory. legendary , the , which takes you to see pre-historic stones in rugged, open countryside, countryside, open rugged, in stones pre-historic to you see takes , which Cabo de S.Vicente de Cabo praia do Castelejo do praia , with its chapel, convent, fortress and lighthouse, lighthouse, and convent,fortress chapel, its , with , nestling between the cliffs. the between , nestling Smugglers’ Smugglers’ Carrapateira 15

TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 3 154 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO nomadic people moving between between moving people nomadic (7,000 of culture B.C.) Mira The times. to pre-historic back go roots on, further bit A little farmers. and fishermen of lives the of aportrait gives which Land) and Sea Terra” the of (Museum eda Mar do “Museu Carrapateira the You visit also can chapel. existing the around grew fort river, the the and to next developed village occur. The waves perfect almost that say surfers where and dunes the in nestling We through go agar-agar. of production the in important algae, of species are460 there coast, the On to area. this 10 unique them of and to Portugal, areunique 46 which of and plant species 750 identified, have been bird of species 200 habitat, natural their in Here, park. for head we then intact; remain heritage historical and cultural rich avery with together nature untamed where Algarve Park Natural Vicentina Costa and the in located is which Bispo do toWe Vila return 1249, and the miraculous potion? .... Aljezur’s famous bean stew with with stew bean famous 1249, Aljezur’s .... potion? miraculous the and in place took The conquest effects. its and potion knights’ Christian the of unaware were they as aghast, the which with speed the and invasion the of strength The task. easy no was armour of suits iron and weapons carrying as battle, important every before potion Legend Aljezur. de Rio the as river, the known of bank left the on land marshy the on town new the other the on and hill, the of slopes the on houses with settlement old the side one on river: the of banks Aljezur mark. its left also Algarve, the at beach the and Alentejo the in Mira rio the of mouth the , one of the few parts of the the of parts few the of , one is divided between the two two the between is divided has it that the knights of Santiago, headed by D. Paio Peres Correia, used an invigorating invigorating an used D. by Peres Correia, Paio headed Santiago, of knights the that it has Aljezur Southwest Alentejo Alentejo Southwest Carrapateira , also part of the the of part , also Bordeira’s Burgau ,

, in , in castle of Aljezur was taken left the Moors Moors the left taken was Aljezur of sweet potato. sweet

Aljezur Aljezur Marmelete oaks. cork and trees eucalyptus trees, pine of 267, forests the between in the for head and Park Natural Vicentina We Costa leave the waters. cool clear its with sea, to the lead which rocks, the in set pools swimming arenatural There beaches. and dunes with interspersed cliffs, is feature the main the municipality, the of coast the On appears in the midst of the hills, a small, quiet village where forest tracks start, cut into the into the cut start, tracks forest where village quiet asmall, hills, the of midst the in appears Caldas deMonchique Serra de Espinhaço de Cão de Espinhaço de Serra natural forests, botanical botanical forests, natural linking made, have been footpaths of kilometres of Hundreds cascades. in fall waters and trees chestnut of forests aremagnificent There climate. awonderful with Monchique on. further kilometres a few Monchique, de Serra the of is typical which granite grey the from different slate, ochre-coloured , on the EN the , on is in a valley isavalley in Monchique 155 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 156 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO that is famous for its its for is famous that isarea an This pudding). (honey mel” de “pudim and cinnamon) and honey, chocolate of made cake (traditional tacho” de are“bolo highlights the sweets, of terms In style. old the in cured pork serrano”, “presunto the sausages, home-made the being known best the with pork, roast and beans, with rice of dishes as such combinations, unusual quite aresome there and is interesting Monchique of cuisine The biggest the is there where and view is afine there where from trees, by surrounded aruin Exile), the of Lady (Our Desterro do Senhora Convent Nossa of the and church main the as well as Sebastião, São de Largo the is visited to has that be place one and everywhere, camellias and arehydrangeas there city, small this In interest. historic of sites and gardens castle which dominates the surrounding countryside. It is the Algarve city where the Islamic heritage heritage Islamic the where city Algarve is the It countryside. surrounding the dominates which castle towards drive we as bridge river, the cross we In top of us to the brings oaks cork and trees eucalyptus through Awalk tract. respiratory the of illnesses and rheumatism of relief the for baths first the built who ones the were “sacred”. They called Romans the which crystalline, and pure north. to the Arrábida the of peaks the or sea, to the next white areas of south, to the Lagos and Portimão day, aclear see On can you architecture. its and cuisine its in both delicious kitchen, mediaeval unusual an has Bragança, of Dukes the of home holiday Bento, former S. de Quinta The Algarve. to up We drive life”. of into “water this areturned fruits red the where producers, the with arranged Caldas de Monchique de Caldas Porto de Lagos de Porto magnolia Fóia , the old Roman Lacobriga, which is built on a slope above the right bank of the the of bank right the above aslope on is built which Lacobriga, Roman old , the , on the road that winds round the hill, in search of the widest views over the the over views widest the of search in hill, the round winds that road the , on medronho

in Europe, classified as a monumental tree. monumental as a classified Europe, in is located on the way down: here a light water bubbles out of the ground, ground, the of out bubbles water alight here down: way the on is located Picota brandy, and around Carnival time guided tours of a distillery can be be can adistillery of tours guided time Carnival around and brandy, , whose slopes command a magnificent view. amagnificent command slopes , whose Silves . The Moorish Shielb appears clustered around the the around clustered appears Shielb Moorish . The Caldas deMonchique peninsula for centuries. for peninsula Iberian the dominated which caliphate powerful the Andaluz, Al of West) (the Garb Al the of poets and scholars lived Here striking. is most Exactly like holidays are supposed to be. aresupposed holidays like Exactly style. Algarve true flavour,of full the in and pace,slow, friendly adifferent and authenticity an with different: bit little that holidays your make will which tours our of rest the try appetite, your whetted the over aview with walk, winged of akind us with provide battlements whose castle, today, even the which, guard walls to on the open city the gates of The And then, driving down what remains of the the of remains what down driving then, And Loulé. for junction to to the get us long take not will It city. the from 3km about join can we which motorway, (A22) Infante do Via the use now will we region, the in places other visit still can we that So Algarve the of typical is so which cake this for recipes best a“morgado”, the of one trying without leave Silves We cannot spell. the break will that words magic the pronounces prince aMoorish when there from escape only can she And songs. sad sings she Disconsolate, oars. golden with silver of aboat in waters deep the over sails solstice) (summer João S. The sense. make suddenly maidens Moorish enchanted of legends the and shapes, mysterious on takes castle the lit, cleverly At night, bottom. to the down going for side at the staircase architecture is feature its unusual most display. areon the But history of centuries Museum, Archaeological the below.In down lazily flowing legend

of the Great Cistern of the Castle tells of the misfortune of a princess who, on the night of of night the on who, aprincess of misfortune the tells of Castle the of GreatCistern the of , around the 12th century cistern well which is more than 20 metres deep and has a has and deep 20 metres than is more which well 12th cistern the , around century River Arade River modern modern

serra, we are soon back in in back aresoon we serra . Faro again. If this tour has has tour this If again.

Ria Formosa Morgado 157 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO 158 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO Praia de Faro T TOURIST HELPLINE: Restaurants: USEFUL INFORMATION centres, shopsopenforlonger, usuallyfrom10amtomidnight. on workingdays.OnSaturdays, theyopenfrom9amto1pm.Inshopping Shops: to 6pm. Post Offices: from 9amto8pmwithoutclosing,onworkingdays. pharmacy open24hoursaday;Somepharmacies areopentothepublic 7 pm;Saturdays–from9amto1pm.Ineveryarea, thereisalwaysaduty Pharmacies: from 7pmto 10pm. Banks: OPENING HOURS: Fax: 289800489 Tel.: 289800400 8000-076 Faro, Algarve-Portugal Head Office: Outubro,Avenida 5de n.º18, Tourism Board) Região de Turismo (Algarve doAlgarve www.visitalgarve.pt Tel.: Address: Praia do Carvoeiro - 8400-517 (LAGOA)CARVOEIRO Lagoa dePêra.8365 Armação Tel.: 2831145 Address: Av. Marginal ARMAÇÃO DEPÊRA 8500-016 Alvor. Tel.: 28457540 Address: RuaDr. Afonso Costa, 51 ALVOR Tel.: Address: Lrg. do Mercado - 8670-054 Aljezur ALJEZUR Tel.: Address: R. 1.º de Maio - 8970-059 Alcoutim. ALCOUTIM 8200-109 Albufeira. Tel.: 28958579 Address: R.5deOutubro ALBUFEIRA 8001-701 Faro. Tel.: 28981858 Address: AeroportodeFaro Internacional FARO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT www.atalgarve.pt E-mail: [email protected] Tel.: 289800403/Fax: 289 800466 8000-076 Faro, Algarve-Portugal Avenida 5deOutubro, n.º18, Promotion(Algarve Bureau) Associação Turismo doAlgarve www.rtalgarve.pt E-mail: [email protected] OURIST INFORMA 2 2 2 8 8 81 546 179 2 2 openonworkingdaysfrom 8.30amto3pm. Shopsaremostlyopenfrom9amto1pmand 3pmto7pm,

998 3 57 7 22 2

Working Days–openfrom9amto1pmand 3pmto most postofficesareopenfromMondaytoFriday from9am mostly openforlunchfrom middayto3pmandfordinner 8 9

808 7812 TION OFFICES Tel.: 289843165 Brás8150-107 São deAlportel. Address: Largo S.Sebastião, nº23 SÃO DEALPORTEL BRÁS 8650-357 Sagres. Tel.: 2864873 Address: RuaComandante Matoso SAGRES Tel.: 289309 Address: Praça -8125Quarteira doMar QUARTEIRA 8500-802 Portimão. Tel.: 28419132 Address: Avenida Tomás Cabreira DAPRAIA ROCHA 8950 Castro Marim. Tel.: 281531800 Address: Monte Francisco PONTE INT. GUADIANA 8700-349 Olhão. Tel.: 2897139 6 Address: Largo M.Mestre, Sebastião 8A OLHÃO Tel.: 281544495 Address: Av. Marginal -8900Monte Gordo. MONTE GORDO Tel.: Address: Lrg. S. Sebastião - 8550 Monchique MONCHIQUE Loulé. Tel.: 289463900 Address: Av. 25deAbril, nº9 -8100-506 LOULÉ 8600-722 Lagos. Tel.: 2876301 (S.João) de Barbudo Address: Moreira RuaBelchior LAGOS 8000-269 Faro. Tel.: 289803604 Address: RuadaMisericórdia,8-11 FARO 8950-138 Castro Marim. Tel.: 281531232 Address: RuaJoséAlves Moreira, 2-4 MARIMCASTRO 2 8 2 911 189 circumstances. only beusedinserious casualty departmentsshould Health Centre;hospital assistance, gotothenearest If youneedmedical national emergencynumber; telephone in caseofemergency, Emergencies: HEALTH: 112

, the Tel.: Praça Al-Muthamid, 8 Tel.: Address: Praça do Município, 8 SILVES 8100- Address: Rua José Viegas Gregório. SALIR Tel.: Querença8100-495 Address: Lrg. da Igreja QUERENÇA [email protected] Tel.: 8500-516 Portimão Address: Av. Zeca Afonso PORTIMÃO 2 8600-670 Lagos. Tel.: Address: Largo Marquês de Pombal LAGOS Alte. Tel.: Address: Estrd. da Ponte, n.º 17 - 8100 ALTE [email protected] 8200 Albufeira. Tel.: 289515973 Address: Estrada deSanta Eulália ALBUFEIRA OFFICES MUNICIPAL TOURIST INFORMATION Tel.: Address: R. da Galeria, 9 - 8800- TAVIRA Tel.: 284455 Address:300-184 Silves -8 R.25deAbril SILVES 8 2 769 2 2 2 2 2 8 8 8 89 4 81 2 2 2 2 0 470 7 441 578 440 44 3 2 322 17 2 Salir. Tel.: 22 89 478 666 495 511 32 2 / Fax: SECURITY: Fax: 289899894 289 822022. Tel.: 289899899/ 8000 Faro Rua daPSP,n.º32. Polícia deFaro Police) Comandode Pública (PublicSafety Polícia deSegurança 2 89 489 7 2 3 2 8 00 Silves 8 2 2 764111, Fax: 470 718 33 3 00 Silves 32 9 Tavira 159 TOUR BEYOND THE SOTAVENTO EN 2007