THE © LonelyPlanetPublications alternatives, especiallyforinlandadventures. tomid-September). the European Springandautumnare holidayseason(July wonderful passes throughthearea. . andtheVia The region Algarviana opportunities has someexcellentwalking ,andquaint Rio Arade,sleepyAlcoutimonthepicture-perfect the banksofRio tracksandbirdlife.ing intoxicating cuisine),walking includestunningSilves Highlights above corktree–proper: andflower-covered hillsides,historicvillages(manywith restaurants serv- way). The laid-backvillagesofSagres andsun-loving visitors. andCarrapateira surf- attract relaxed; thisenchantingplaceismore aboutnature (fornow,any- andlessaboutconstruction queen; andelegantTavira boastsabeautifulislandbeach.The ruggedwestcoastismore beautiful assets,especiallytheParque carnival Formosa;LagosistheAlgarve’s NaturaldaRio brash resorts. Forsomeit’sparadise,forothersanabhorrence. coast, loomsomemonstrosities:hugeconglomerationsofbland,modernholidayvillasand ties and,itseems,it’sstillforsale…Justbehindthebeachscape,especiallyalongsouth inland area, whichboastsbeautifulcountrysideandpretty castletowns. scalloped baysandlongsandyislands. Andlet’snotforget (astoomanydo)thestunning Love itorloatheit,it’seasytoseetheallure of cliffs, breathtaking the Algarve: goldensands, Algarve The 178 „ If you’re oncrowdsorhigh-seasonprices,avoidhittingthecoastalregion notkeen in thatreallyBut it’stheinnerAlgarve shines. Tobypassthisarea istomisstheAlgarve Whatever yourview,there’s personality.Underrated Faro nodoubtingtheAlgarve’s boasts premier holidaydestination,solditssoultotourisminthesix- ’s Coastal Algarve,

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

„ POPULATION: 396,000 Unwindinginthespasof Finding yourinnerhedonistatthebeaches Strollingthe historicstreets and exploring Lounging in waters offuntouched sand Windingyourwayupthestunning–and Formosa islands inthe and nightclubsof the castleof the cliffs of secluded –westcoast,after peeringover ( p192) Cabo deSãoVicente Silves Parque NaturaldaRia Lagos ( p209) (p216) Monchique ( p226) ( p231 inthesurroundinghills) after hiking „ AREA : 4995 SQKM Cabo deSãoVicente Lagos Monchique Silves da RiaFormosa Parque Natural THE ALGARVE

179 Agenda Agenda (www which covers covers which Welcome to the Welcome to the Algarve Resident Algarve 123 Algarve Tourist Yellow Algarve Tourist Yellow (www.vistaiberica.com) are are (www.vistaiberica.com) (www.essential-algarve.com) Algarve Guide, (tourist offices) dole out infor- (tourist offices) often available at resorts, bars bars at resorts, available often magazine. magazine. . Major towns have a monthly towns have . Major is another freebie, with town maps with town maps is another freebie, The Good Life Turismos Swimmers should beware of the tempera- of should beware Swimmers Algarve Cultural Pages for up-to-date and local information. Useful produced privately tips on local spots are Free Maps, and shops. One of the clearest Algarve the clearest maps, including One of & by Freytag six town maps, is published (1:150,000). Berndt Information several Algarve-specific are There newspapers and magazines, including and the trilin- (www.portugalresident.com) gual classified newspaper .algarve123.pt), features. has informative which AlgarveEssential and magazines. lifestyle and leisure leaflets, including mation, maps and free the monthly what’s on, and the quarterly Dangers & Annoyances Annoyances Dangers & and area, touristed This is Portugal’s most valuables Never leave petty theft is prevalent. the beach. in the car or on unattended mental coast conditions, especially on the west ocean currents, dangerous coast. This means fog. Check the col- strong winds and sometimes is unat- means the beach flags: chequered oured means don’t even dip your toe in, red tended, yellow means wade but don’t swim, and green means go: wade, swim. Blue is an international is smashing –symbol that means the beach good facilities. clean and with safe, Orientation Vicentina stretches north of here on the windy, on the here of north stretches Vicentina park. national a of wild rim Climate Blessedweather, the Algarve with good has year- and sunshine almost a mild winter a on sunshine 12/six hours’ round, with day. Summertime typical summer/winter between and 25°C average temperatures as high as 40°C. 30°C, sometimes reaching almond blossoms and February In January orange is the countryside, while March cover month to visit time; April is the best blossom see wildflowers. to (is- ilhas THE ALGARVE •• History

The Algarve coastline is 155km long, with Trade, particularly in nuts and dried fruit, Trade, particularly in nuts Then came the Visigoths and, in 711, the Then came the Visigoths Two centuries later the AlgarveTwo centuries later had its hey- The (Christian reconquest) The Reconquista (Christian reconquest) History History British residents in Portugal are following following are in Portugal residents British Costa de Sagres (Bay of Sagres), while the Costa Sagres), (Bay Costa of de Sagres Monchique and less-visited Serra do Caldeirão. and less-visited Monchique theThe Costa do Ouro (Golden Coast) borders rises to two high the Serra mountain ranges, de Barlavento), from Lagos culminatingBarlavento), to Sagres, Cabo the de grandeur of in the wind-scoured cor- Europe’s southwesternmost São Vicente, which interior, ner; and the hilly, thickly green featuring the heaviest resort development; resort the heaviest featuring rocky windward coast (or the increasingly fronted by a chain of sandy offshore sandy offshore of by a chain fronted to Portimão, lands); the central coast, from Faro five regions: the leeward coast (Sotavento), from the leeward coast (Sotavento), regions: five largely de Santo António to Faro, exploration of Africa and Asia – seafaring Africa and Asia exploration of that turned Portugal into a major triumphs imperial power. built and staffed in Lagos for the 15th-century day. Prince Henry the Navigator chose the the Navigator day. Prince Henry end-of-the-earth as the appropriately Sagres and had ships base navigation, for his school in the first half of the 13th century did the half of in the first for good. Portuguese claw their way back Dom Sancho I captured Silves and territories and territories Silves I captured Dom Sancho Only returned. to the west in 1189, the began in the early 12th century, with the began in the early 12th century, with the wealthy Algarve goal. Though as the ultimate emirate to the east. to emirate capital, quite independent of the large Muslim the large independent of capital, quite al-Andalus’ (western Andalucía), later known Andalucía), later (western al-Andalus’ as ‘Algarve’. legacy is the flat- Another Arabic house, originally used to dry almonds,roofed night heat. the figs and corn, and to escape the mighty was Moorish boomed, and Silves settled (east of Faro to , Faro settled ) ‘al-Gharb (east of come from this time, easily spotted by the arti- spotted come from this time, easily , ). The cle ‘al’ (eg , they in which called the region Syrian Moors but later Christians obliterated what they could, what they Christians obliterated but later place names Many the era. little trace of leaving North African Moors. They stayed They 500 years, North African Moors. grapes and built roads and palaces. Check out roads and palaces. Check grapes and built near Faro. ), p189 ( Milreu of the remains 3000 years ago, followed by the Carthaginians. ago, 3000 years who, dur- industrious Romans, Next came the barley and wheat, stay,ing their 400-year grew a long tradition of settlement. Phoenicians of a long tradition established and trading posts some came first lonelyplanet.com