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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 344 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Kerry Christiani I would like to thank all the super-efficient Many thanks to the travellers who used tourism professionals up and down the country the last edition and wrote to us with help- who made research run like (Swiss) clockwork, ful hints, useful advice and interesting especially those in the Jungfrau Region and anecdotes: the SBB team. A big Grazia to Hans Lozza and Bill Blair, Brian Watts, Georges Pierre, Roman Gross for their insight into the Swiss Lin Chen, Marco Pecora, Michael Duxfield, National Park. As always, thanks to my husband Sebastian Meier, Siti Shariffa, Thomas Andy Christiani for his ongoing support. Knoblauch, Tim Hatton Gregor Clark Merci vielmal to countless people who shared their love and knowledge of Switzerland with AUTHOR THANKS me, especially Anja Stetter, Susanne Seiler and Sally O’Brien. Thanks also to my parents Henry Nicola Williams and Nancy Clark, who first introduced me to Huge thanks as always to the many friends/ the Matterhorn and infected me with their own strangers/acquaintances/colleagues who love for languages and travel. Back home, love aided and abetted in tracking down the very and hugs to my wife Gaen and daughters best, including Christian Keel, Christine Meigan and Chloe, who always make coming Schröder and Pascal Gebert in Zermatt; home the best part of the trip. born-and-bred Sion girl Sabin Van Vliet; Sami Lamaa from fave piste-side pad Chetzeron; Sally O’Brien and, for top Glacier Express tips, Lonely Thank you to Kate Morgan for commissioning Planet destination editor Kate Morgan. me and to co-ordinating author Nicola Wil- Extra- special kudos to my very own, super- liams for both a steady hand on the tiller and a powered, tri lingual ‘Switzerland- with-kids’ great blueprint. Much gratitude is due to Denis research team: Niko, Mischa & Kaya Balibouse for keeping the home caquelon Luefkens (kept in check on the road by bubbling when I head off to work, and to him super- husband Matthias). again and the two BBs for the welcome when I return. Thanks also to my in-laws, Ellen and Guy, for all their help and local knowledge. 345 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. BEHIND THE SCENES Cover photograph: Alpine hut, Wengen. David Noton Photography/Alamy. Destination Editor Perrin, Kirsten Rawlings, THIS BOOK Kate Morgan Saralinda Turner This 8th edition of Lonely Product Editor Assisting Cartographer Planet’s Switzerland guidebook Kate Chapman Julie Dodkins was researched and written Senior Cartographer Cover Researcher by Nicola Williams, Kerry Anthony Phelan Naomi Parker Christiani, Gregor Clark and Book Designers Thanks to Helvi Cranfield, Sally O’Brien. The 7th edition Katherine Marsh, Mazzy Samantha Forge, Elizabeth was written by Nicola Williams, Prinsep Jones, David Kemp, Claire Kerry Christiani, Sally O’Brien Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn and Damien Simonis. This Assisting Editors Judith Bamber, Kate James, Noble, Katie O’Connell, Martine guidebook was produced by Anne Mulvaney, Monique Power, Samantha Tyson, the following: Lauren Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 346 Index A Kunstmuseum (Basel) 217 BASE jumping 35, 124 Lake Geneva 65 Aarau 225 Kunstmuseum (Bern) 97 Basel 14, 37, 213, 215-22, Rheinfall 254 Aargau 37, 213, 223-5, 214 Kunstmuseum 214, 216 Walensee 264 Liechtenstein 298 abbeys 20, 75, 93, 205, 20, accommodation 218-19 bobsledding 123, 290 see also churches & Kunstmuseum (Solothurn) activities 218 Bond World 007 18, 128 cathedrals, monasteries 108 drinking & nightlife 220-1 books 302 absinthe 92, 322 Kunstmuseum entertainment 221 Bosco Gurin 188 (Winterthur) 244 accommodation 324-6, see festivals & events 218 Botta, Mario 175 Kunst(zeug)haus 243 also individual locations food 219-20 bouldering 118, 186, 270 MUDAC 60 activities 21-2, 27-35, see shopping 221 Bourbaki Panorama 194 also individual activities Musée Barbier-Mueller 43 sights 215-18 brandy 322 Aigle 70 Musée Cantonal des travel to/from 222 Braunwald 265 air travel 17, 331-2, 333 Beaux Arts 60 travel within 222 Bregenz 256 Aletsch Glacier 10, 166-8, Musée d’Art (Sion) 149 beaches breweries 101, 197, 223, 227, 167, 10, 32 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Central Switzerland 195, 257, 261 alpenhorn 314 (Geneva) 43 203, 210 Brienz 132-3, 247 Alpine villages 226, 5, 226-7 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Neuchâtel) 88 Geneva 48 Brig 166 Altdorf 202 Musée d’Art Moderne et Lake Geneva 58, 68 Brugg 224 altitude sickness 327-8 Contemporain 43 Ticino 177, 187, 189 Brunnen 203-4 ambulance services 17 Musée de l’Art Brut 60 bears 97 Brusio 295 Andermatt 211-12 Musée Jenisch 71 Bellinzona 171-4, 172 budgeting 17, see also money Appenzell 227, 260-1 Museo Comunale d’Arte Berlingen 256 Bulle 87 Arbon 257 Moderna 186 Bern 11, 96-104, 98, 11 Bündner Herrschaft 279-81 architecture 219, 260, 313-14 Museo d’Arte 175 accommodation 100-1 bungee jumping 35 Ardez 286 Museo delle Culture 175 activities 100 bunkers 132, 311 area codes 330 Museum Liner 261 drinking & nightlife 102-3 Burgdorf 106 Arosa 274-6 Museum Rietberg 230 entertainment 103 bus travel 332, 334 art museums 19 Pinacoteca Casa Rusca 182 festivals & events 100 business hours 329 Aargauer Kunsthaus 225 Sammlung Oskar Reinhart food 101-2 Bündner Kunstmuseum 267 am Römerholz 244 highlights 96 Cabaret Voltaire 230 Sammlung Rosengart 194 C shopping 103 CabriO gondola 18, 200 Centre PasquArt 105 Schaulager 217 sights 97-100 Calvin, John 42, 43, 306 Cité du Temps 46 Stiftung Langmatt 223 travel to/from 103 Campione d’Italia 180 Fondation Beyeler 14, 222 Villa dei Cedri 173 travel within 103-4 canoeing 35, 94, 186, 254, Fondation Pierre Arnaud Zentrum Paul Klee 97 Bernese Oberland 37, 256, 276 18, 153 arts 315 109-38, 110 canyoning Fondation Pierre Gianadda Ascona 186-7, 247 Bernina Pass 294-5 142 Bernese Oberland 111, 112, ATMs 329 Bettmeralp 166, 168, 227, 125, 137 Franz Gertsch Museum 106 226-7 Augusta Raurica 223, 304 bicycling, see cycling, Central Switzerland 204 Fri Art 80 Avenches 85 downhill biking, mountain Graubünden 282 Kirchner Museum 282 Avers Valley 279 biking Ticino 186 Kunsthaus Zug 210 Biel-Bienne 104-6, 104 Carouge 49 Kunsthaus (Zürich) 230 B Blausee 135 car travel 332, 335-6 Bad Ragaz 280-1 boat travel 332, 334 castles 20, 305, see Baden 223-4 Basel 222 also forts & fortresses Map Pages 000 baggage 332 Geneva 43, 55 Burgdorf 106 Photo Pages 000 Bärenpark 97 Lake Constance 256 Castelgrande 171 347 Castello di Montebello 171 Montreux 72 cow trekking 255 embassies 327 Castello di Sasso Corbaro Zürich 231 cows 22, 142, 152, 168, emergencies 17, 33 171-2 chocolate 20, 90, 320, 20 255, 311 Emmental region 106-7 Castello Visconteo 182 Chur 267-72, 271 Crans-Montana 153-4 Engadine 286-94 Château de Chillon 11, churches & cathedrals, see credit cards 329 Engelberg 206-9, 207 73, 11 also abbeys, monasteries Cully 69 environmental issues 303 Château de Coppet 67 INDEX Allerheiligen Münster 250 culture 310-15 Eurovision 308 Château de Gruyères 86 Basel Münster 215 currency 16 events, see festivals & events Château de la Bâtiaz 142 Basilique de Notre-Dame customs regulations 326 Evolène 152 Château de Nyon 67 C–G de Fribourg 79 cycling 34, 252, 333-4, see exchange rates 17 Château de Tourbillon 149 Bern Münster 97 also downhill biking, Château de Valère 149 Cathédrale de Notre mountain biking Schloss Arbon 257 Dame 58-60 Bern 100 F Schloss Arenenberg 256-7 Cathédrale de St Nicolas Emmental Cheese falcons 182-3 Schloss Habsburg 224 de Myre 79 Route 107 Falera 276-7 Schloss Hünegg 132 Cathédrale St-Pierre 42 Lake Constance 255 Faulensee 132 Schloss Kyburg 244 Cattedrale di San Lorenzo Liechtenstein 300 Faulhornweg 117, 117 Schloss Laufen 13, 254 174 Meiringin 134 festivals & events 21-2, 319, Schloss Lenzburg 225 Chiesa Collegiata dei SS Murten 84 see also music festivals, Pietro e Stefano 173 sporting events Schlössli Worth 254 Sentier du Vins de Vully 85 Chiesa di San Biagio 173 Carnival 21, 195, 218 Schloss Oberhofen Jura 93 Chiesa di San Giovanni 132, 247 Ticino 171 Cow Pat Festival Battista 189 (Chüefladefäscht) Schloss Rapperswil 243 Zug 210 Chiesa di San Rocco 173 22, 168 Schloss Spiez 131 Chiesa di Santa Maria Fasnacht 21, 195, 218 Schloss Tarasp 286 degli Angioli 175 Foire du Valais 22, 142 Schloss Thun 129 D Chiesa di Santa Maria Dadaism 201, 230, 315 Harder Potschete 21, 113 Schloss Vaduz 298 delle Grazie 173 Davos 282-5, 283 L’Escalade