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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Kerry Christiani I would like to thank all the super-efficient Many thanks to the travellers who used tourism professionals up and down the country the last edition and wrote to us with help- who made research run like (Swiss) clockwork, ful hints, useful advice and interesting especially those in the Jungfrau Region and anecdotes: the SBB team. A big Grazia to Hans Lozza and Bill Blair, Brian Watts, Georges Pierre, Roman Gross for their insight into the Swiss Lin Chen, Marco Pecora, Michael Duxfield, National Park. As always, thanks to my husband Sebastian Meier, Siti Shariffa, Thomas Andy Christiani for his ongoing support. Knoblauch, Tim Hatton Gregor Clark Merci vielmal to countless people who shared their love and knowledge of with AUTHOR THANKS me, especially Anja Stetter, Susanne Seiler and Sally O’Brien. Thanks also to my parents Henry Nicola Williams and Nancy Clark, who first introduced me to Huge thanks as always to the many friends/ the Matterhorn and infected me with their own strangers/acquaintances/colleagues who love for languages and travel. Back home, love aided and abetted in tracking down the very and hugs to my wife Gaen and daughters best, including Christian Keel, Christine Meigan and Chloe, who always make coming Schröder and Pascal Gebert in Zermatt; home the best part of the trip. born-and-bred Sion girl Sabin Van Vliet; Sami Lamaa from fave piste-side pad Chetzeron; Sally O’Brien and, for top Glacier Express tips, Lonely Thank you to Kate Morgan for commissioning Planet destination editor Kate Morgan. me and to co-ordinating author Nicola Wil- Extra-­special kudos to my very own, super- liams for both a steady hand on the tiller and a powered, tri­lingual ‘Switzerland-­with-kids’ great blueprint. Much gratitude is due to Denis research team: Niko, Mischa & Kaya Balibouse for keeping the home caquelon Luefkens (kept in check on the road by bubbling when I head off to work, and to him super-­husband Matthias). again and the two BBs for the welcome when I return. Thanks also to my in-laws, Ellen and Guy, for all their help and local knowledge. BEHIND THE SCENES 345

Helvi Cranfield, Cranfield, Helvi Samantha Forge, Elizabeth Samantha Forge, Claire Kemp, David Jones, Karyn Naylor, Claire Murphy, Martine O’Connell, Katie Noble, Tyson, Samantha Power, Wellicome Lauren Perrin, Kirsten Rawlings, Rawlings, Kirsten Perrin, Turner Saralinda Assisting Cartographer Dodkins Julie Researcher Cover Parker Naomi Thanks to

Katherine Marsh, Mazzy Mazzy Marsh, Katherine Prinsep Assisting Editors James, Kate Bamber, Judith Monique Mulvaney, Anne Destination Editor Morgan Kate Editor Product Chapman Kate CartographerSenior Phelan Anthony Designers Book guidebook guidebook

Switzerland Cover photograph: Alpine hut, Wengen. Alpine Wengen. hut, photograph: Cover Kerry Christiani, Sally O’Brien O’Brien Sally Christiani, Kerry This Simonis. Damien and by produced was guidebook following: the by Nicola Williams, Kerry Kerry Williams, Nicola by and Clark Gregor Christiani, edition 7th The O’Brien. Sally Williams, Nicola by written was was researched and written written and researched was THIS BOOK Lonely of edition 8th This Planet’s Sciences, 11, 1633–44. 11, Sciences, Photography/Alamy. Noton David Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Peel from adapted data map Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA & McMahon BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger of Map World System and Earth Hydrology Classification’, ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 346

Index

A Kunstmuseum (Basel) 217 BASE jumping 35, 124 Lake Geneva 65 Aarau 225 Kunstmuseum (Bern) 97 Basel 14, 37, 213, 215-22, Rheinfall 254 Aargau 37, 213, 223-5, 214 Kunstmuseum 214, 216 Walensee 264 Liechtenstein 298 abbeys 20, 75, 93, 205, 20, accommodation 218-19 bobsledding 123, 290 see also churches & Kunstmuseum (Solothurn) activities 218 Bond World 007 18, 128 cathedrals, monasteries 108 drinking & nightlife 220-1 books 302 absinthe 92, 322 Kunstmuseum entertainment 221 Bosco Gurin 188 (Winterthur) 244 accommodation 324-6, see festivals & events 218 Botta, Mario 175 Kunst(zeug)haus 243 also individual locations food 219-20 bouldering 118, 186, 270 MUDAC 60 activities 21-2, 27-35, see shopping 221 Bourbaki Panorama 194 also individual activities Musée Barbier-Mueller 43 sights 215-18 brandy 322 Aigle 70 Musée Cantonal des travel to/from 222 Braunwald 265 air travel 17, 331-2, 333 Beaux Arts 60 travel within 222 Bregenz 256 Aletsch Glacier 10, 166-8, Musée d’Art (Sion) 149 beaches breweries 101, 197, 223, 227, 167, 10, 32 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Central Switzerland 195, 257, 261 alpenhorn 314 (Geneva) 43 203, 210 Brienz 132-3, 247 Alpine villages 226, 5, 226-7 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Neuchâtel) 88 Geneva 48 Brig 166 Altdorf 202 Musée d’Art Moderne et Lake Geneva 58, 68 Brugg 224 altitude sickness 327-8 Contemporain 43 177, 187, 189 Brunnen 203-4 ambulance services 17 Musée de l’Art Brut 60 bears 97 Brusio 295 Andermatt 211-12 Musée Jenisch 71 171-4, 172 budgeting 17, see also money Appenzell 227, 260-1 Museo Comunale d’Arte Berlingen 256 Bulle 87 Arbon 257 Moderna 186 Bern 11, 96-104, 98, 11 Bündner Herrschaft 279-81 architecture 219, 260, 313-14 Museo d’Arte 175 accommodation 100-1 bungee jumping 35 Ardez 286 Museo delle Culture 175 activities 100 bunkers 132, 311 area codes 330 Museum Liner 261 drinking & nightlife 102-3 Burgdorf 106 Arosa 274-6 Museum Rietberg 230 entertainment 103 bus travel 332, 334 art museums 19 Pinacoteca Casa Rusca 182 festivals & events 100 business hours 329 Aargauer Kunsthaus 225 Sammlung Oskar Reinhart food 101-2 Bündner Kunstmuseum 267 am Römerholz 244 highlights 96 Cabaret Voltaire 230 Sammlung Rosengart 194 C shopping 103 CabriO gondola 18, 200 Centre PasquArt 105 Schaulager 217 sights 97-100 Calvin, John 42, 43, 306 Cité du Temps 46 Stiftung Langmatt 223 travel to/from 103 Campione d’Italia 180 Fondation Beyeler 14, 222 Villa dei Cedri 173 travel within 103-4 canoeing 35, 94, 186, 254, Fondation Pierre Arnaud Zentrum Paul Klee 97 Bernese Oberland 37, 256, 276 18, 153 arts 315 109-38, 110 canyoning Fondation Pierre Gianadda 186-7, 247 Bernina Pass 294-5 142 Bernese Oberland 111, 112, ATMs 329 Bettmeralp 166, 168, 227, 125, 137 Franz Gertsch Museum 106 226-7 Augusta Raurica 223, 304 bicycling, see cycling, Central Switzerland 204 Fri Art 80 Avenches 85 downhill biking, mountain Graubünden 282 Kirchner Museum 282 Avers Valley 279 biking Ticino 186 Kunsthaus Zug 210 Biel-Bienne 104-6, 104 Carouge 49 Kunsthaus (Zürich) 230 B Blausee 135 car travel 332, 335-6 Bad Ragaz 280-1 boat travel 332, 334 20, 305, see Baden 223-4 Basel 222 also forts & fortresses Map Pages 000 baggage 332 Geneva 43, 55 Burgdorf 106 Photo Pages 000 Bärenpark 97 Lake Constance 256 Castelgrande 171 347 Castello di Montebello 171 Montreux 72 cow trekking 255 embassies 327 Castello di Sasso Corbaro Zürich 231 cows 22, 142, 152, 168, emergencies 17, 33 171-2 chocolate 20, 90, 320, 20 255, 311 Emmental region 106-7 Castello Visconteo 182 Chur 267-72, 271 Crans-Montana 153-4 Engadine 286-94 Château de Chillon 11, churches & cathedrals, see credit cards 329 Engelberg 206-9, 207 73, 11 also abbeys, monasteries Cully 69 environmental issues 303

Château de Coppet 67 INDEX Allerheiligen Münster 250 culture 310-15 Eurovision 308 Château de Gruyères 86 Basel Münster 215 currency 16 events, see festivals & events Château de la Bâtiaz 142 Basilique de Notre-Dame customs regulations 326 Evolène 152

Château de Nyon 67  C–G de Fribourg 79 cycling 34, 252, 333-4, see exchange rates 17 Château de Tourbillon 149 Bern Münster 97 also downhill biking,

 Château de Valère 149 Cathédrale de Notre mountain biking Schloss Arbon 257 Dame 58-60 Bern 100 F Schloss Arenenberg 256-7 Cathédrale de St Nicolas Emmental Cheese falcons 182-3 Schloss Habsburg 224 de Myre 79 Route 107 276-7 Schloss Hünegg 132 Cathédrale St-Pierre 42 Lake Constance 255 Faulensee 132 Schloss Kyburg 244 Cattedrale di San Lorenzo Liechtenstein 300 Faulhornweg 117, 117 Schloss Laufen 13, 254 174 Meiringin 134 festivals & events 21-2, 319, Schloss Lenzburg 225 Chiesa Collegiata dei SS Murten 84 see also music festivals, Pietro e Stefano 173 sporting events Schlössli Worth 254 Sentier du Vins de Vully 85 Chiesa di San Biagio 173 Carnival 21, 195, 218 Schloss Oberhofen Jura 93 Chiesa di San Giovanni 132, 247 Ticino 171 Cow Pat Festival Battista 189 (Chüefladefäscht) Schloss Rapperswil 243 Zug 210 Chiesa di San Rocco 173 22, 168 Schloss Spiez 131 Chiesa di Santa Maria Fasnacht 21, 195, 218 Schloss 286 degli Angioli 175 Foire du Valais 22, 142 Schloss Thun 129 D Chiesa di Santa Maria Dadaism 201, 230, 315 Harder Potschete 21, 113 Schloss Vaduz 298 delle Grazie 173 Davos 282-5, 283 L’Escalade 22, 48 Schloss Wartegg 257 Chiesa di Sant’Antonio 182 design 313, 315 Montreux Jazz 22, 73 Schloss Wildegg 224-5 Chiesa Nuova 182 disabilities, travellers National Day 22, 61, 177 Wasserschloss Hallwyl 225 Deutsche Kirche 84 with 330 Sechseläuten 22, 234 Caumasee 276 Église Collégiale discount cards 326-7, 336 Sertig Schwinget 22, 284 Celerina 290 (Neuchâtel) 88 Appenzell 261 Street Parade 22, 234 cell phones 16, 330 Église Collégiale (St Basel & Aargau 215, 225 Vogel Gryff 21, 218 Centovalli 187-8 Ursanne) 94 Bernese Oberland Fex-Cresta 227 Central Switzerland 37, Église de St Martin et St 111, 138 Fex-Platta 227 190-212, 191 Clément 68 Central Switzerland 196 Ceresio Peninsula 180 Fiesch 166 Fraumünster 230 Fribourg 79 CERN 47, 312 films 302 Grossmünster 231 Geneva 42 Cevio 188 First 122 Jesuit Church 108 Graubünden 272, 274, 284 Champéry 144 Flims 276-7 Kathedrale St Maria Lake Geneva 58 Champex 145 Himmelfahrt 267 Fondation Pierre Arnaud 18 ski passes 74 Chardonne 69-70 Martinskirche 267 fondue 40, 49, 86, 87, 317-18 Ticino 173, 187 Charles the Bold 75 Santuario della Madonna food 178, 285, 316-20, see Valais 144 also cheese, chocolate, Charmey 87 del Sasso 182 Zürich & Around 242, 244 fondue, individual St Gallen Dom 258, 20 châteaux, see castles locations St Laurenzen-Kirche 258 278-9 Château de Chillon 11, 73, 11 football 221, 241, 275 St Martinskirche 279 downhill biking 34, 188, 274, Château d’Œx 76 281, 270, 286 forts & fortresses 75, 192, St Peterskirche 231 Châtel-St-Denis 86 drinking & nightlife, see 250, 255, see also castles St Remigiuskirche 276 Chaumont 91 individual locations Franches Montagnes 93 St Ursen-Kathedrale 107 cheese 316-17 drinks, see absinthe, wine French language 338-9 Tellskapelle 202 Appenzell 262 driving 332, 335-6 Fribourg 36, 77, 79-84, 82 Cima della Trosa 185 Emmental region 106, 107 Friedrichshafen 256 cinema 302 Engelberg 206 Frisch, Max 314 Gruyères 86 climate 16, 28, 326, see E economy 303, 308, 310 Fusio 189 Jura region 93 also individual regions Eggishorn 166 Valle di Muggio 181 climbing, see rock climbing Einsiedeln 205-6 children, travel with 19, 35, Col du Grand St Bernard 145 G 326, 335 consulates 327 Einstein, Albert 97-9, 312 galleries, see art museums Geneva 48 Coppet 67 Eiswelt 168 Gandria 180 Jura 94 Corippo 186, 227, 227 electricity 327 Garbo, Greta 75 348 gardens, see parks & gardens Hesse, Hermann 180, 314 K Leysin 75 gay travellers 327 hiking 28, 30-3, 30 Kandersteg 135-7 Liechtenstein 38, 296- Gehry, Frank 14, 219, 222 Aletsch Glacier 166-8, Kapellbrücke 192, 12 300, 297 Geneva 36, 40-55, 41, 44-5 168, 166-8 kayaking 35, 58, 94, 201, 254 Ligerz 105 accommodation 48-9 Bern 100 Kerzers 86 literature 302 drinking & nightlife 40, Bernese Oberland 118, Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig 282 Locarno 182-6, 247, 183

INDEX INDEX 123, 135 52-4 Klee, Paul 97, 315 Lower Valais 142-54 entertainment 54 Central Switzerland 200, Lucerne 13, 192-8, 193, 12 202, 205, 206, 212 Kleine Scheidegg 118, 123 festivals & events 48 Klettgau 253 accommodation 195-6 Cima della Trosa 185, 185 G–M food 40, 49-52 activities 195  Graubünden 272-3, 274, Klewenalp 200 highlights 41 climate 190 276, 278, 279, 280, Klöntal 264 planning 40 281-2, 287, 289, 291, Klosters 281-2, 29 drinking & nightlife 197 shopping 54 295, 27 Konstanz 256 entertainment 197-8 sights 42-7 Lakes of Macun 287, 185 Kreuzlingen 256-7 festivals & events 21-2, tours 47 Liechtenstein 299, 300 195 travel to/from 54-5 Sentier des Fromageries­ food 196-7 travel within 55 87 L shopping 198 German language 339-41 Swiss National Park 289 La Brisolée 150 sights 192-4 Giacometti, Alberto 295 Ticino 186, 189 La Chaux-de-Fonds 91-2, 313 travel to/from 198 Giessbachfälle 133 Valais 146, 149, 157, 159, La Côte 66-7 travel within 198 Gimmelwald 128, 227, 226 164, 31 276-7 Lucerne Festival 21-2 Glacier Express 11, 163, Walensee 264 Lac Souterrain St Léonard Lugano 174-80, 176 151 273, 11 Zwinglipass 263, 263 luggage 332 Lago di Lugano 15, 180-2, glaciers 194 history 304-9 luging 91, 164 181, 2, 15 Aletsch Glacier 10, 123, history museums 305, 310 Lutry 68-9 Lago Maggiore 182-7, 247, 166-8, 168, 166-8, 10 Arbon 257 246-7 Allalin 163 Basel 215 Lake Brienz 128, 247 Glacier 3000 75, 136, 137 Bern 97 M Lake Constance 255-7 Madrisa Land 282 Glacier de Tsanfleuron 75 Central Switzerland Lake Geneva 10, 36, 56-74, Gletschergarten 194 194, 204 Maienfeld 280 57, 10 Gletscherschlucht 118 Fribourg 85 Malans 280 Lake Lucerne 198-202, 199 Morteratsch Glacier 295 Geneva 43 Malbun 300 Lake Thun 128, 247, 247 Titlis Glacier 209 Lake Geneva 60, 61, 67 Männlichen 122-3 Lake Uri 202, 247, 246 Glarus 265 Martigny 142 maps 33 Lakes of Macun 287 Gornergratbahn 158-9, 2 Vaud 75 marmots 164 L’amarr@GE 18, 47 government 307, 308 holidays 329 Martigny 142-4, 143 languages 16, 338-43 Grande Dixence dam 151 Hölloch Caves 204 Matterhorn 9, 157-65, 8-9 Lausanne 58-65, 59, 62-3 Graubünden 38, 266-95, hydrospeeding 35 measures 325 accommodation 61-3 268-9, 27 hypothermia 328 media 325 Grimentz 154 drinking & nightlife 64-5 Meersburg 256 entertainment 65 Grindelwald 13, 116-22, 120 Meiringen 133-5 grotti 94 I festivals & events 61 Melide 181 ice climbing 135, 34 Gruyères 86 food 63-4 Mendrisio 181 immigration 331 Gryon 76 information 65 Meride 182 insurance 328 Gstaad 137-8 sights 58-61 military 311 Interlaken 111-16, 112 tours 61 Guarda 286, 5 Mittelland 37, 95-108, 96 internet access 328 travel to/from 65 mobile phones 16, 330 internet resources 17, 29, travel within 65 monasteries 206, 254, 30, 33, 34, 325 H Lauterbrunnen 124-5 256, 278, 289, see also Habsburg 224 Isole di Brissago 186-7 Lavaux wine region 10, abbeys, churches & hang-gliding, see paragliding 341-2 68-70 cathedrals Hauterive 92 itineraries 23-6 Le Corbusier 70, 91, 231 money 16, 17, 314, 329 health 327-8 Le Locle 93 Mont Fort 146 Heidi 281, 314 J legal matters 328-9 Montagnes 306 Jenins 280 Lenzburg 225 Neuchâteloises 92 Hermance 55 Jet d’Eau 42 Lenzerheide 272-4 Montagnola 180-1 Joyce, James 231, 314 Les Diablerets 75-6 Monte Generoso 180 lesbian travellers 327 Montfaucon 93 Map Pages 000 Jungfrau region 116-28, 118 Jungfraujoch 123-4 L’Escalade 22, 48 Montreux 11, 72-4, 6 Photo Pages 000 Jura 15, 36, 77, 78, 93-4, 15 Leukerbad 155-7 Morcote 181 349 Morges 66 Northeastern Switzerland internet resources 17, 29, Schwyz 204-5 Môtiers 92 38, 248-65, 249 30, 33, 34, 325 Schynige Platte 116 motorcycle travel 332, 335-6 Nyon 66-7 itineraries 23-6 science 312-13 mountain biking 28, 34, regions 36-8 sculpture 315 32, see also cycling, repeat visitors 18 286-8 downhill biking O Oberblegisee 265 weather 16, 28 Seealpsee 262

Crans-Montana 153 INDEX Oberengadin 290 police 17 Seerenbachfälle 264 Graubünden 270, 273, politics 302, 307, 308 Sherlock Holmes 133-4 274, 282, 284 Oeschinensee 135 Pontresina 295 Sierre 152-3 St Moritz 291 onions 102 population 303, 310 Sils-Maria 294  M–S Vue-des-Alpes 91 opening hours 329 Porrentruy 94 Silvaplana 293-4 mountains 19 Orbe 75 public holidays 329 Sion 14, 148-51, 148, 14 Bussalp 122 public transport 336 skiing & snowboarding 15, Cardada 183-4 P Pyramides d’Euseigne 151 28-31, 328, 29 Eiger 13, , painting 315 12 226-7 Bernese Oberland 119, 122, Faulhorn 122 paragliding 35 124, 126, 135, 136, 137 Flumserberg 262 Bernese Oberland 111, R Central Switzerland 200, radio 325 Gemsstock 212 118, 125, 137 206-7, 209 rafting 28, 35 Harder Kulm 111 Central Switzerland 195, Fribourg 87 203, 207 Graubünden 276, 282 Heimwehfluh 111 Graubünden 273, 274, 276, Gstaad 137 Jungfrau 13, 226-7 Graubünden 284 280, 281, 283-4, 286, Matterhorn 9, 161, 8-9 Ticino 184, 186 Interlaken 111, 112 288, 291, 292 Mönch 13, 226 Valais 160, 166 Val Verzasca 186 Jura 93 Mont Berneuse 75 parks & gardens 51 Rapperswil 243 Liechtenstein 300 Monte Brè 179 Alpengarten 116 Re 188 Neuchâtel 91, 92, 93 Monte Generoso 180 Bärenpark 97 Red Cross 42, 43, 47, 306 Northeastern Switzerland Mt Pilatus 199-200 Giardini Pubblici 182 religion 303, 306 264, 265 Mt Rigi 200-1 Inseli 197 reserves, see national parks Valais 144, 145, 153, 154, & reserves 159, 164, 166 Pizzo Badile 295 Jardin Anglais 42 Rheinfall 13, 253-4, 13 Vaud 75, 76 Säntis 262 Jardin des Cinq Sens 55 Rheinfelden 223 skydiving 35, 111, 186, 328 Sardona 265 Josefswiese 236 Riederalp 166, 168, 227 sledging 91, 100, 164, Stanserhorn 200 Lindenhof 236 Riederfurka 168 200, 209 Titlis 209 Lungolago 175 Rivaz 69-70 smoking 325 mountain transport 336 Parc de la Perle du Lac 43, 48 road distances 334 snowboarding, see skiing & Mürren 126-8, 227 Parc des Bastions 43 Rochers de Naye 72 snowboarding Murten 84-5 Parco Botanico San rock climbing 28, 34-5, snowshoeing 119, 137, 204, museums, see art museums, Grato 181 186, 270 273, 274 history museums Parco delle Camelie 183 Romansch 342 Soglio 295 music festivals 11, 314 Parco Scherrer 181 Romanshorn 257 Solothurn 107-8 Basel 221 Pilatus Seilpark 199 Rorschach 257 spas & thermal baths Bernese Oberland 113, 100, 156 Platzspitz 236 Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 43, 129, 137 Aargau 223-4 Préhisto Parc 94 73, 106 Central Switzerland Central Switzerland 201 21-2, 195 Rosengarten 100 Rütli Meadow 202 Fribourg 87 Graubünden 284 Schadau Park 129 Graubünden 278, 280, University Botanical Lake Geneva 22, 67, 73 S 286, 291 Garden 100 Mittelland 100 Saas Fee 163-6 Valais 18, 155 Zürichhorn 236 Northeastern Switzerland safety 28, 30, 329 Vaud 74 22, 256, 258 passports 331 Saignelégier 93 Spielboden 164 Ticino 177, 184, 187 Pays d’Enhaut 76 Sainte-Croix 75 Spiez 131-2, 247 Valais 22, 146, 149 Peak Walk by Tissot 18, 76 Salgesch 153 Splügen 279 Müstair 288-9 Pfingstegg 123 Sammlung Rosengart 194 sport 311-12 Mustér 278-9 phonecards 329, 330 288 sporting events Piano, Renzo 14 Säntis 262 Eiger Bike Challenge 119 Piz Sardona 265 Sardona 265 Engadine Ski Marathon N planning national parks & reserves 9, scenic railways, see train 21, 292 activities 21-2, 27-35 106, 198, 275, 289, 9 travel FIS Cross-Country World Neuchâtel 36, 77, 78, basics 16-17 Schaffhausen 250-3, 251 Cup 284 88-91, 89 budgeting 17 Schilthorn 128-9 FIS Ski Jumping World newspapers 325 calendar of events 21-2 schwingen 22, 284, 312 Cup 207 350 sporting events continued time 330 Valle di Muggio 181 Bündner Herrschaft Freeride Days 137 Tinguely, Jean 79, 218, 315 Valle Maggia 188-9 279-81 Ice Climbing Festival 135 tipping 329 Valle Mesolcina 279 Klettgau 253 Jungfrau Marathon 113 Titlis 209 Valle Onsernone 188 Lavaux wine region 10, Knabenschiessen 234 toboggan runs Vals 278 68-70 Lauberhornrennen 125 Central Switzerland 212 Valsertal 277-8 Ligerz 105

INDEX INDEX Sertig Schwinget 22, 284 Faulhorn 122 Väluna Valley 300 museums 70, 152, 153, 299 Snow Polo World Cup Graubünden 273, 274, Vaud 36, 56, 74-6 Salgesch 153 21, 292 281, 283 Verbier 145-8 Sierre 152

S–Z Suisse Open 137 Lake Geneva 75 Verdasio 188 Winterthur 244-5, 245 Swiss Indoors 218 Mt Pilatus 200 Vevey 70-2 World Heritage Sites  White Turf 292 Neuchâtel 91 Via Mala 279 Albulabahn 275 World Snow Festival 119 Walensee 262 vie ferrate 35 Aletsch Glacier 10, 166-8, , St Beatus-Höhlen 116 Toggenburg 262 Bernese Oberland 118, 167 10 St Bernard dogs 99, 142, 145 tourist information 330 127, 135, 136 Bellinzona castles 171-2 St Gallen 257-60, 259 train travel 212, 332, 337, 337 Braunwald 265 Bern Old Town 96-104 St Léonard 151 Bernina Express 273 Central Switzerland 212 Bernina Line 294-5 St Luc 154 Bernina Line 295 Graubünden 277, 291 Kloster St Johann 289 St Moritz 290-3, 292, 30 Centovalli Railway 188 Valais 155, 166 Lavaux wine region 68-70 St Ursanne 94, 15 Glacier Express 11, 163, Vaud 75 Monte San Giorgio 182 Stampa 295 273, 11 Villa Le Lac 70 Reichenau 256 Stanserhorn 200 Gornergratbahn 158, 2 Villars 76 Sardona 265 Staubbach Falls 13, 124 Graubünden 273 Villars chocolate factory 80 St Gallen Dom 258 Stechelberg 126 Jungfrau region 226 visas 16, 330 WWII 75, 132, 202, 250, Stein am Rhein 254-5 Lavaux wine region 68 Visp 157 306, 307 Stiftsbibliothek 258 Rhätische Bahn 273 Vissoie 154 St-Saphorin 69-70 Rothorn Bahn 132 Vitra Design Museum 14, 14 Y swimming, see also beaches St Bernard Express 144 yodelling 84, 113, 197, 314 Bernese Oberland 129, 131 travel passes, see discount Yverdon-Les-Bains 74 Geneva 18, 47 cards W Wagner, Richard 194 Yvoire 55 Graubünden 282, 284 travel to/from Switzerland 331-2 Walensee 247, 262-4, 246-7 Mittelland 100 travel within Switzerland 333 walking, see hiking Schaffhausen 251 Z Twann 105 watchmaking 43, 91-2, 93, Zermatt 157-63, 158 Ticino 184 105, 218 Zernez 289-90 Valais 155 waterfalls 13, 124, 133, 134, zoos 48, 86, 97, 182-3, 243 Zürich 233 U 247, 264, 13 Zug 209-11 Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) Uetliberg 242 waterskiing 35, 132, 187 Zuoz 290 33, 311 Unterengadin 286-90 weather 16, 28, 326, see Zürich 14, 38, 228-43, 229, Swiss Army 75 Upper Valais 154-68, 31 also individual regions 232, 240, 14, 20 Swiss Army knives 18, websites 17, 29, 30, 33, accommodation 228, 203, 313 34, 325 V 234-6 Swiss Mountain Rescue 17, 33 Weesen 247, 264, 246-7 Vaduz 298-9, 298 activities 233 Swiss National Park 9, 289, 9 Weggis 201-2 Val Bavona 189 children, travel with 231 Swiss Riviera 70-4 weights 325 295 climate 228 Swissminiatur 181 Wengen 125-6 Val d’Anniviers 154 drinking & nightlife 238-9 Werdenberg 262 Val d’Entremont 144-5 entertainment 239-41 Western Valleys 187-9 T Val de Travers 92 festivals & events 22, 234 wi-fi 328 telephone services 16, Val d’Hérémence 151 food 228, 236-8 329-30 Wildegg 224-5 Val d’Hérens 151-2 highlights 229 Tell, William 108, 202 Wildhaus 262 Val Ferret 144-5 shopping 241-2 terrace bars 53 wildlife reserves, see zoos Val Fex 227, 294 sights 230-1 Thun 129-31, wildlife-watching 111, 146, 130 Val 277 tours 233 Thusis 279 164, 182-3, 289 278-9 travel to/from 242 Ticino 15, 37, 169-89, , Windisch 224 170 Val 295 travel within 239, 242-3 15, 246-7 windsurfing 35, 58, 132, Val Verzasca 186, 227 262, 284, 293-4 Züri-West 14, 240 Valais 14, 37, 139-68, 140-1 wine 14, 321-2, 14 Zwinglipass 263, 263 Map Pages 000 Valbella 272-4 festivals 131, 173, 181, 253, Zytglogge 11, 97, 11 Photo Pages 000 Valle di Campo 189 280, 319 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 351

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary /Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Sikh Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lookout Winery/Vineyard Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Oasis International Other Sight Park State/Province Pass Disputed Activities, Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Waterfall Marine Park Bodysurfing Cliff Diving Population Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (National) Course/Tour Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Tube station Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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