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Al Via La Rivoluzione Con Kris Van Assche
il primo quotidiano della moda e del lusso Anno XXIX n. 066 - € 0,50 Direttore ed editore Caporedattore MFmercoledì fashion 4 aprile 2018 MF fashion Paolo Panerai - Stefano RoncatoI 04.04.18 ONLINE SU MFFASHION.COM LE GALLERY FOTOGRAFICHE DELLE COLLEZIONI F-W 2018/19 KRIS VAN ASSCHE KRIS VAN BBerlutierluti aall vviaia llaa rrivoluzioneivoluzione cconon KKrisris VVanan AAsschessche IIll ddesigneresigner bbelga,elga, eexx DDior,ior, è sstatotato nnominatoominato ddirettoreirettore ccreativoreativo ddii rreadyeady ttoo wwearear e aaccessoriccessori ddelel mmarchioarchio aall ppostoosto ddii HHaideraider AAckermann,ckermann, aandandondando a ccompletareompletare llaa nnuovauova ssquadraquadra ddelel mmenswearenswear ddelel ggrupporuppo ffranceserancese LLvmhvmh DDebutteràebutterà a PParigiarigi nnelel ggennaioennaio 22019019 rosegue il movimento dei direttori creativi all’interno del gruppo Lvmh, con un focus sul menswear. Il gruppo d’Oltralpe da 42,6 miliardi di euro di ricavi nel 2017 (+13%) ha annunciato che Kris PVan Assche sarà il nuovo designer di Berluti per il ready to wear, le calzature e gli accessori. Andrà a sostituire Haider Ackermann, la cui uscita è stata comunicata venerdì, e presenterà la sua prima collezione durante la settimana della moda di Parigi dedicata al menswear di genna- continua a pag. II BLACKSTAGE di Giampietro Baudo Ecce homo! Il menswear è morto? No, certamente no. Forse stan- la collezione homme Céline by Hedi Slimane. Ma tutta to, Craig Green, e sul debutto in pedana dell’uomo di no soffrendo le fashion week al maschile minori. Forse la stagione mannish sarà punteggiata da debutti eccel- Paul Surridge per Roberto Cavalli. Anche se le sorpre- sta soffrendo a livello di vendite retail. Sicuramente lenti e rilanci blasonati. -
TRANSLATION of the FRENCH “RAPPORT ANNUEL” AS of APRIL 30, 2013 Combined Shareholders’ Meeting October 18, 2013
TRANSLATION OF THE FRENCH “RAPPORT ANNUEL” AS OF APRIL 30, 2013 Combined Shareholders’ Meeting October 18, 2013 This document is a free translation into English of the original French “Rapport annuel”, hereafter referred to as the “Annual Report”. It is not a binding document. In the event of a conflict in interpretation, reference should be made to the French version, which is the authentic text. Chairman’s message 2 Parent company financial statements 183 Executive and Supervisory Bodies - Statutory Auditors 1. Balance sheet 184 as of April 30, 2013 4 2. Income statement 186 Simplified organizational chart of the Group 3. Cash flow statement 187 as of April 30, 2013 5 4. Notes to the parent company financial statements 188 Financial highlights 6 5. Subsidiaries and equity investments 196 6. Portfolio of subsidiaries and equity investments, Management report of the Board of Directors 7 other long-term and short-term investments 197 CHRISTIAN DIOR GROUP 7. Company results over the last five fiscal years 198 8. Statutory Auditors’ reports 199 1. Consolidated results 8 2. Results by business group 11 Resolutions for the approval of the Combined 3. Business risk factors and insurance policy 19 Shareholders’ Meeting of October 18, 2013 203 4. Financial policy 25 5. Stock option and bonus share plans 28 Ordinary resolutions 204 6. Exceptional events and litigation 29 Extraordinary resolution 206 7. Subsequent events 30 Statutory Auditors’ report on the proposed 8. Recent developments and prospects 30 decrease in share capital 207 CHRISTIAN DIOR PARENT COMPANY Other information 209 1. Results of Christian Dior 32 GOVERNANCE 2. -
Jeremy Renner Wears Dior Homme’S Wool Suit and Armani’S Cotton Shirt, Thom Browne’S Pocket Square
FALL 2010 / SPRING 2011 FirstWWD Look THEThe NEW SUITS: Magazine SLIM SHAPES, NEUTRAL PALETTE RAF SIMONS FROMHEADLINE AVANT-GARDE TO CENTER STAGE Super Manny EMANUELGOES CHIRICO’S GLOBALHERE VISION FOR CALVIN & TOMMY ZEGNA AT 100 PLUS RETROSEXUAL REVOLUTION MISTAKES MEN MAKE LUXURY REDEFINED JAPAN’S NEXT WAVE THE J. CREW FACTOR Display untilTHE XXXXXX LOOK 00, 2006 OF $10.00 WALL STREET DENIM ON THE BEACH JEREMYSPRING RENNER The Toast of the Town 0621.MW.001.Cover.a;23.indd 1 6/7/10 10:36:57 PM FABRIC N°1 A re-edition of the 1910 original, for the modern man AN ENDURING PASSION FOR FABRIC AND INNOVATION SINCE 1910 zegna.com FABRIC N°1 A re-edition of the 1910 original, for the modern man AN ENDURING PASSION FOR FABRIC AND INNOVATION SINCE 1910 zegna.com American Style. Ame rican Made. American Style. Ame rican Made. contents IN THE KNOW 15 People, places and things—talking points from the world of Menswear. RISING IN THE EAST Five Tokyo-based designers of the moment aim to build an international presence. 18 By Amanda Kaiser LET’S BE FRANK J. Crew’s Frank Muytjens has emerged as one of the most infl uential designers in 20 men’s fashion. By Jean E. Palmieri GREED LOOKS GOOD As Gordon Gekko resurfaces in the hedge fund era, Oliver Stone’s sequel tracks 22 the evolution of Wall Street style. By Brenner Thomas ON THE GRID 24 Highlights of fall culture and commerce. By Brenner Thomas MISTAKES MEN MAKE 26 The experts weigh in on the worst blunders in men’s fashion. -
The Creative Talents
VIRGIL ABLOH MEN’S ARTISTIC DIRECTOR LOUIS VUITTON Born in rockford, illinois in 1980, Virgil Abloh is an artist, architect, engineer, creative director, and designer. After earning a degree in Civil Engineering from the University of Wisconsin Madison, he completed a Master´s Degree in Architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology in a curriculum founded by Mies van der Rohe. It was here that he learned not only about modernist design principles but also about the concept of multi- disciplinary working. Virgil Abloh’s brand Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh™ was started in 2012 as an artwork titled "PYREX VISION." In 2013, the brand premiered a seasonal men's and women's fashion label showing runway collections during Paris Fashion Week since 2015. Abloh has also presented his work at major design institutions around the globe by the likes of Harvard Graduate School of Design, Columbia Graduate School of Architecture, Planning and Preservation and the Rhode Island School of Design. In 2019 he will have a major exhibition of past and current work at the Museum of Contemporary Art of Chicago, Illinois. In 2015, Virgil Abloh for Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh™ is among the finalists of the LVMH Prize. He has been awarded various prizes, most recently winning the British Fashion Awards Urban Luxe award and International Designer of the Year at the GQ Men of the Year Awards in 2017. © Louis Vuitton JONATHAN ANDERSON CREATIVE DIRECTOR LOEWE Born in 1984 in Northern Ireland, lives in London, Madrid and Paris. Graduate of the London College of Fashion. -
Blazer Glory the Eighties Are Back in All Their Strong-Shoulder and Nipped-Waist Splendor, with Edgy Accessories to Complete the Look
Page 1 Wednesday MAINSTREAM: ▲ NEWS: Retail Store players eye NYC exclusives vacancies, page 2. may be ▲ EXEC TECH: bright spot, ▲ St. John page 8. RETAIL: Neiman’s opening makes more online store, ▲ job cuts, page 2. page 10. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 8, 2009 • $3.00 WWDWEDNESDAYSportswear Blazer Glory The Eighties are back in all their strong-shoulder and nipped-waist splendor, with edgy accessories to complete the look. Here, Twenty8Twelve by S. Miller’s stretch dobby jacket over Iodice’s silk jersey dress and Davidelfi n’s leather shirt with Vera Wang Lavender Label’s polyester and spandex shorts. Eugenia Kim hat; By Malene Birger belt; Dr. Martens boots. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Parlux Breaks Ground: Jay-Z, Rihanna and Kanye Get a New Kind of Deal By Pete Born In one of the most unusual deals in the glitzy annals of celebrity licensing, Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter, Rihanna and Kanye West are entering into a relationship with Parlux Fragrances Inc. that departs dramatically from the licensing norm. The hip-hop stars, along with an unidentified “well established” female artist, are becoming partners with the Fort Lauderdale, Fla.-based firm through a deal with Iconic Fragrances LLC, a firm in which Jay-Z is a major principal and Rihanna and West are licensees. Instead of receiving cash from licensing royalties, the stars will get royalties and profit sharing in the fragrance brands they launch. But most of the payoff will be through See Parlux, Page4 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: JESSICA PITTI/IMG; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY VANESSA EVELYN/PETRA ALEXANDRA; FASHION ASSISTANT: AJA MARIE JOHNSON; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE AJA MARIE JOHNSON; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: ALEXANDRA; FASHION ERICKSEN; MODEL: JESSICA PITTI/IMG;VANESSA KYLE EVELYN/PETRA HAIR AND PHOTO MAKEUP BY BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, APRIL 8, 2009 WWD.COM More Job Cuts at Neiman Marcus NEIMAN MARCUS INC. -
Avant-Garde Fashion for the Masses
AVANT-GARDE FASHION FOR THE MASSES a study of consumer perception of avant-gardist designer brands after collaborating with mainstream fashion Image1; (Rick Owens, 2013) STOCKHOLM SCHOOL OF ECONOMICS Authors: Andrea Boodh, 21746 & Caroline Foerster, 40479 Supervisor: Hans Kjellberg Opponents: Joel Florén & Hanna Poutanen Examiner: Susanne Sweet Presentation: Stockholm, May 26, 2014 AVANT-GARDE FASHION FOR THE MASSES Boodh & Foerster, 2014 ABSTRACT The use of intra-industrial co-branding within fashion has increased dramatically over the last decades, with a wide range of partner combinations including even avant-garde fashion designers. These brands are often licensing collaborations with mainstream mass-market brands, but with uncertain effects for their brands. This study explores potential effects brand collaborations between high-end avant-garde fashion designers and low-end mass-market fashion brands have on consumer perception of the former. The applied research model combines general co-branding theory with theories on fashion in order to get an industry specific understanding of the consequences and effects of the brand collaborations. The study examines effects on consumer perception based on qualitative interviews with consumers and experts. The findings, in line with co-branding theory, show that the level of fit between the partnering brands in a collaboration influences the consumer perception of the avant-garde designer, where a higher degree of fit results in more positive attitudes. The avant-garde brand’s identity is shown to alter after a collaboration due to negative spillover effects from the mainstream ally. Further, the findings show the extended spread of the collaboration to have unanimous effects on the avant-garde brand and consumer perception. -
Swinging London!
Mode Expo: MartinMargiela, 20ansdéjà! Swinging London! ecei7Mercredi mai 2008 ecei7Mercredi mai 2008 Le Temps Le Temps JeanPaulGaultier PhillipLim Rag&Bone Rodarte GaspardYurkievich Maquillage: Nos interviews exclusives Lesyeuxdanslebleu OLEG COVIAN Ce ne supplément peut être vendu séparément Ce ne supplément peut être vendu séparément 2 Mode Le Temps Mercredi 7 mai 2008 ÉDITO Il y a six mois, lors des défilés et dur. Une tendance revenue gladiateur dessinées par aujourd’hui, d’une manière Oùvontles printemps-été, les imprimés des années 80 et 2000 et le créateur Riccardo Tisci pour même flamboyante, passe avaient envahi les podiums. qu’on pensait rester dans Givenchy, mon voisin de siège, par ce côté un peu guerrier tendances Tous les imprimés: des fleurs, le placard pour encore deux Nicolas Degennes, directeur parce qu’elle est un des derniers beaucoup, et surtout des ou trois saisons s’activait sur artistique du maquillage refuges d’une certaine… couleurs, appliquées comme les podiums. Givenchy, disait qu’il n’était pas contestation.» quimeurent avec des pinceaux, transformant surpris par cette vague de vête- On a vu quelques GI Jane les robes en tableaux vivants. ments conçus comme des La contestation, chez lui, s’est débutantes chez Paul & Joe, et Evocations de Jackson Pollock armures. Il avait d’ailleurs créé manifestée tout en subtilité, avantd’avoir des plus confirmées chez Isabel ou de Monet, citations de Sonia une palette camouflage pour avec des fleurs, et des chapeaux Marant, arborant une plaque Delaunay, ou de Kasimir l’automne 2007. «C’est une qui semblaient avoir été fabri- vécu? militaire en guise de collier. -
2008 Annual Report
2008 ANNUAL REPORT TRANSLATION OF THE FRENCH “RAPPORT ANNUEL” This document is a free translation into English of the original French “Rapport Annuel”, hereafter referred to as the “Annual Report”. It is not a binding document. In the event of a conflict in interpretation, reference should be made to the French version, which is the authentic text. Chairman’s message 2 Consolidated financial statements 91 Executive and Supervisory Bodies - 1. Consolidated income statement 92 Statutory Auditors 4 2. Consolidated balance sheet 93 Simplified Organizational Chart of the Group 5 3. Consolidated statement of changes in equity 94 Financial Highlights 6 4. Consolidated cash flow statement 95 5. Notes to the consolidated financial statements 97 Management Report of the Board of 6. Statutory Auditors’ report 157 Directors 9 1. Consolidated income statement 10 Parent company financial statements 159 2. Results by business group 12 1. Balance sheet 160 3. Operational risk factors and insurance policy 19 2. Income statement 162 4. Financial policy 23 3. Cash flow statement 163 5. Results of Christian Dior SA 27 4. Notes to the parent company financial statements 164 6. Company shareholders 28 5. Subsidiaries and investments as of 7. Administrative matters 30 December 31, 2008 173 8. Financial authorizations 31 6. Investment portfolio, other investment 9. Information on compensation and benefits in securities and short term investments 173 kind of company officers 34 7. Company results over the last five fiscal years 174 10. List of offices or positions exercised in all 8. Statutory Auditors’ reports 175 companies by company officers 37 11. Stock option and bonus share plans 44 12. -
Passionate About Creativity
2018 ANNUAL REPORT Passionate about creativity Passionate about creativity WHO WE ARE A creative universe of men and women passionate about their profession and driven by the desire to innovate and achieve. A globally unrivalled group of powerfully evocative brands and great names that are synonymous with the history of luxury. A natural alliance between art and craftsmanship, dominated by creativity, virtuosity and quality. A remarkable economic success story with more than 156,000 employees worldwide and global leadership in the manufacture and distribution of high-quality products. A global vision dedicated to serving the needs of every customer. The successful marriage of cultures grounded in tradition and elegance with the most advanced product presentation, industrial organization and management techniques. A singular mix of talent, daring and thoroughness in the quest for excellence. A unique enterprise that stands out in its sector. Our philosophy: passionate about creativity LV M H VA L U E S INNOVATION AND CREATIVITY Because our future success will come from the desire that our new products elicit while respecting the roots of our Maisons. EXCELLENCE OF PRODUCTS AND SERVICE Because we embody what is most noble and quality-endowed in the artisan world. ENTREPRENEURSHIP Because this is the key to our ability to react and our motivation to manage our businesses as startups. 2 • 3 Fondation Louis Vuitton. #MyFLV architecture photography competition. THE LVMH GROUP 06 Chairman’s message 12 Interview with the Group Managing Director -
How Consumers Relate to Luxury Brands in the 21St Century : the Changing Concept of Sacredness and Its Importance Daniela Ott
How consumers relate to luxury brands in the 21st century : the changing concept of sacredness and its importance Daniela Ott To cite this version: Daniela Ott. How consumers relate to luxury brands in the 21st century : the changing concept of sacredness and its importance. Business administration. Université Paris sciences et lettres, 2018. English. NNT : 2018PSLED067. tel-03222729 HAL Id: tel-03222729 https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-03222729 Submitted on 10 May 2021 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. THÈSE DE DOCTORAT de l’Université de recherche Paris Sciences et Lettres PSL Research University Préparée à l’Université Paris -Dauphine How consumers relate to luxury brands in the 21st century: The changing concept of sacredness and its importance cole Doctorale de Dauphine — ED 543 COMPOSITION DU JURY : Spécialité Sciences de gestion Monsieur Simon NYECK ESSEC Business School Directeur de thèse Monsieur Denis DARPY Paris Dauphine PSL Research University Président du jury Madame Delphine DION ESSEC Business School Rapporteure Monsieur Marc FETSCHERIN Rollins College Rapporteur Soutenue le 10.12.2018 Madame Christel de LASSUS par Daniela OTT Université Paris-Est Marne-la-Vallée Membre du jury Dirigée par Mr Simon NYECK Contents List of tables ................................................................................................................................. -
New Perspectives
GAGA WALKS! The Lady took her turn on the runway at Mugler. SEE STYLE, PAGE 5. HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL Comp Sales Help Fuel Optimism Over Economy By VICKI M. YOUNG ACCELERATING ECONOMIC headwinds eased on Thursday with strong reports about retail sales and jobs, Wall Street’s best day of the year and even a pause in the escalation of oil prices. Retailers reporting comparable-store sales for February averaged increases of 4.2 percent, FRIDAY, MARCH 4, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 better than the 3.6 percent expected, according WWD to Thomson Reuters, with men’s, women’s and children’s apparel and accessories generating some of the biggest gains among broadlines re- tailers ranging from Saks Inc., with an indus- try-leading comp gain of 15.3 percent, to Target Corp., up 1.8 percent with apparel up in the low- to midsingle digits. While a strong sense of caution remains, par- ticularly about the second half and impending increases in apparel prices brought on by higher costs for cotton and other commodities, there was cause for optimism on Thursday, and not just in the better-than-expected sales numbers. New jobless claims last week fell to 368,000, their lowest level since May 2008, according to the Labor Department, fanning optimism about the employment report for February due today. While gasoline prices continue to escalate at the pump, posing an immediate threat to the dis- cretionary spending that drove February comp sales upward, the price of crude oil slipped back on Thursday from recent highs as Venezuela and the Arab League worked on proposals to end the standoff in Libya and its potential to disrupt glob- al oil markets. -
City Research Online
Tokaranyaset, Chatmaporn (2013). Institution-Based Resource: Concept and Cases. (Unpublished Doctoral thesis, City University London) City Research Online Original citation: Tokaranyaset, Chatmaporn (2013). Institution-Based Resource: Concept and Cases. (Unpublished Doctoral thesis, City University London) Permanent City Research Online URL: http://openaccess.city.ac.uk/2416/ Copyright & reuse City University London has developed City Research Online so that its users may access the research outputs of City University London's staff. Copyright © and Moral Rights for this paper are retained by the individual author(s) and/ or other copyright holders. All material in City Research Online is checked for eligibility for copyright before being made available in the live archive. URLs from City Research Online may be freely distributed and linked to from other web pages. Versions of research The version in City Research Online may differ from the final published version. Users are advised to check the Permanent City Research Online URL above for the status of the paper. Enquiries If you have any enquiries about any aspect of City Research Online, or if you wish to make contact with the author(s) of this paper, please email the team at [email protected]. Institution-Based Resource: Concept and Cases Chatmaporn Tokaranyaset A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Management Cass Business School City University London, United Kingdom May, 2013 1 TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLE