Blazer Glory the Eighties Are Back in All Their Strong-Shoulder and Nipped-Waist Splendor, with Edgy Accessories to Complete the Look
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
Page 1 Wednesday MAINSTREAM: ▲ NEWS: Retail Store players eye NYC exclusives vacancies, page 2. may be ▲ EXEC TECH: bright spot, ▲ St. John page 8. RETAIL: Neiman’s opening makes more online store, ▲ job cuts, page 2. page 10. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 8, 2009 • $3.00 WWDWEDNESDAYSportswear Blazer Glory The Eighties are back in all their strong-shoulder and nipped-waist splendor, with edgy accessories to complete the look. Here, Twenty8Twelve by S. Miller’s stretch dobby jacket over Iodice’s silk jersey dress and Davidelfi n’s leather shirt with Vera Wang Lavender Label’s polyester and spandex shorts. Eugenia Kim hat; By Malene Birger belt; Dr. Martens boots. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Parlux Breaks Ground: Jay-Z, Rihanna and Kanye Get a New Kind of Deal By Pete Born In one of the most unusual deals in the glitzy annals of celebrity licensing, Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter, Rihanna and Kanye West are entering into a relationship with Parlux Fragrances Inc. that departs dramatically from the licensing norm. The hip-hop stars, along with an unidentified “well established” female artist, are becoming partners with the Fort Lauderdale, Fla.-based firm through a deal with Iconic Fragrances LLC, a firm in which Jay-Z is a major principal and Rihanna and West are licensees. Instead of receiving cash from licensing royalties, the stars will get royalties and profit sharing in the fragrance brands they launch. But most of the payoff will be through See Parlux, Page4 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: JESSICA PITTI/IMG; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY VANESSA EVELYN/PETRA ALEXANDRA; FASHION ASSISTANT: AJA MARIE JOHNSON; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE AJA MARIE JOHNSON; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: ALEXANDRA; FASHION ERICKSEN; MODEL: JESSICA PITTI/IMG;VANESSA KYLE EVELYN/PETRA HAIR AND PHOTO MAKEUP BY BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, APRIL 8, 2009 WWD.COM More Job Cuts at Neiman Marcus NEIMAN MARCUS INC. HAS CUT 131 EmpLOY- have also trimmed staff. ees in its third round of layoffs since January. In February, the company imposed a 2 to 4 WWDWEDNESDSportswearAY The reductions on Monday included 31 staff- percent pay reduction on all management and FASHION ers in marketing, public relations, advertising salaried employees. About 3,000 employees were The Eighties are back in quirky print mixes, and creative services as a result of an organiza- affected. Sales associates, who typically are paid s 6 lopsided proportions and punk accessories. tional review that has been going on for almost a straight commission, and support staff on hourly year, said spokeswoman Ginger Reeder. wages were not included in the wage cuts. GENERAL In addition, Neiman’s eliminated 100 sales sup- Neiman’s reported a net loss of $509.3 million Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter, Rihanna and Kanye West port positions across the company nationwide. in the second quarter ended Jan. 31 as a result of 1 The Dallas-based chain has laid off 6 per- more than half a billion dollars in writedowns. are entering into a deal with Parlux Fragrances cent of its workforce this year — a total of 956 The retailer posted a 20.9 percent comparable Inc. that departs from the licensing norm. people — as it copes with the drop in spending sales decline in February, which followed dou- As rents drop and space opens up, some retailers, that began last fall and has hit the luxury sector ble-digit declines every month since September. 2 such as Nordstrom Rack, have returned to the hard. Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York — Holly Haber Manhattan market seeking sites. Alessandro Dell’Acqua is exiting Malo after only 4 a year as its creative director, leaving the line to be designed by the brand’s in-house team. Lower Rates Could Boost N.Y. Retail 5 Jimmy Choo has formed a joint venture with Bluebell Far East Ltd. to own and operate Choo By David Moin encourage them to get into some markets that in stores in Hong Kong. the past weren’t feasible,” Co said. MAINSTREAM: Exclusive brands appear to be AS STORE VACANCIES RISE AND RENTS FALL “My sense is that on a market-by-market and 8 in Manhattan, some eager retailers appear ready location-by-location basis, a retailer, if there is one antidote to the rash of sluggish sales at to pounce on the spoils. a potentially fabulous location open, may op- stores around the country. The bargains are attracting interest from a portunistically take it,” said Roxanne Meyer, Ronald Van der Vis, former chief executive officer lineup of aggressive companies that includes executive director, UBS Investment Research. 11 of Pearle Europe, will become group chief executive Nordstrom Rack, The TJX Cos. Inc., H&M, Zara, “But I don’t have the sense that retailers are officer of Esprit Holdings Ltd. Topshop and CVS Corp., according to sources. on the margin opening more stores than previ- Amid the ravages of the recession, which fol- ously planned, and in fact I believe retailers are 14 Gap Inc. chairman and chief executive officer lowed boom years in which Manhattan’s real es- moreso opportunistically looking to close stores Glenn Murphy received total compensation of tate was among the most expensive and coveted where they can get out of a poor location.” $9.3 million in 2008, his first full year on the job. in the world, the latest developments could alter Topshop, which opened its first U.S. store, the face of retailing in the city. They follow a is interested in high traffic areas. One possibil- Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 moribund period — with the exception of major ity is 34th Street, where Vornado Realty Trust, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS openings recently such as Topshop in SoHo and which provided the SoHo site, has substantial [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s NAME. Giorgio Armani on Fifth Avenue — that picked property holdings. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 up momentum because of tight credit and re- Through the 2008 fourth quarter, double-digit FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 197, NO. 73. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with duced consumer spending. sales declines industrywide one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June “Apparel chains, big- and rising unemployment and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division box retailers and discount- scared retailers from scouting of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services ers are out looking,” said Manhattan sites. However, de- provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage Joe Harbert, chief operat- clining rents and real estate paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. ing officer of Cushman & availability, as well as some Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian Wakefield’s New York metro recovery in the stock market addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS region during a presenta- and optimism that the econ- CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA tion Tuesday on commercial omy may have bottomed out 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed real estate trends for the have encouraged retailers to on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. first quarter of 2009 and the renew the search. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online prognosis for the year. On Madison Avenue in at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Harbert characterized the first quarter of 2009, Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please the retail real estate market ground-floor rents on av- advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT as “a more promising pic- erage from 57th to 72nd RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, ture from last quarter when Streets dropped to less than UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER demand was largely nonex- $1,000 a square foot for the MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY istent.” However, only a lim- first time in two years, to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ited number of deals have $947.