GAGA WALKS! The Lady took her turn on the runway at Mugler. SEE STYLE, PAGE 5.

HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL Comp Sales Help Fuel Optimism Over Economy

By VICKI M. YOUNG

ACCELERATING ECONOMIC headwinds eased on Thursday with strong reports about retail sales and jobs, Wall Street’s best day of the year and even a pause in the escalation of oil prices. Retailers reporting comparable-store sales for February averaged increases of 4.2 percent, FRIDAY, MARCH 4, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 better than the 3.6 percent expected, according WWD to Thomson Reuters, with men’s, women’s and children’s apparel and accessories generating some of the biggest gains among broadlines re- tailers ranging from Saks Inc., with an indus- try-leading comp gain of 15.3 percent, to Target Corp., up 1.8 percent with apparel up in the low- to midsingle digits. While a strong sense of caution remains, par- ticularly about the second half and impending increases in apparel prices brought on by higher costs for cotton and other commodities, there was cause for optimism on Thursday, and not just in the better-than-expected sales numbers. New jobless claims last week fell to 368,000, their lowest level since May 2008, according to the Labor Department, fanning optimism about the employment report for February due today. While gasoline prices continue to escalate at the pump, posing an immediate threat to the dis- cretionary spending that drove February comp sales upward, the price of crude oil slipped back on Thursday from recent highs as Venezuela and the Arab League worked on proposals to end the standoff in Libya and its potential to disrupt glob- al oil markets. There were even indications that the price of cotton could stabilize after a long period of volatil- ity. Cotton Incorporated economist Jon Devine said New Perspectives Thursday, in his organization’s fi rst podcast, that Before the show, preliminary estimates for the August crop season, while still early, are for “the largest cotton harvest Nicolas Ghesquière ever recorded” worldwide, to 127.5 million bales, 6 described his fall million bales more than have ever been harvested. collection for SEE PAGE 4 Balenciaga as “a game of perspectives and IN WWD TODAY scale.” And so it Dior, Galliano Shows Set was, yet he failed to PAGE 2 mention one major NEWS: As the fashion descriptor: chic. He house continues to deal with the fi ring of John Gal- wove tubes of fake liano, Christian Dior said leather into sturdy it will show today while jackets, placing them the Galliano line will show over fl imsy transparent Sunday.

sweaters and drapy UGG’s New Luxury dresses in bold nature PAGE 6 prints — all to beautiful FASHION: The Australian brand introduces a higher- effect. For more from priced luxury line of hand- the Paris collections, bags and footwear for fall. see Style, pages 2 to 5. Dinner and a Movie PAGE 8 L EYE: Chanel hosts a dinner at Le Grenouille, while Tom- my Hilfi ger heads downtown for a screening of “Happy- ThankYouMorePlease.”

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI 2 WWD friday, march 4, 2011 WWD.COM Dior, Galliano Shows to Go On Tom Ford sunglasses. By MILES SOCHA swirl in the hothouse atmosphere of Paris Fashion Week. It is understood Dior is in no hurry — and is legally PARIS — The show must go on. unable —to name a successor until it has completed its That seems to be the mantra at Christian Dior SA, procedure to terminate Galliano’s employment. which is soldiering ahead with the Dior fashion show Under French employment regulations, the proce- today despite John Galliano’s dramatic ouster over anti- dure to terminate employees can go quickly for what Semitic outbursts. is known as faute grave, a serious misdemeanor. If the It is expected to be a straightforward affair, with little of reason for termination concerns a personal matter or in- the usual celebrity hoopla. News organizations have been cident off the company clock, it can take several weeks. Ford Extends Eyewear Pact instructed that photographers will have no access to back- According to sources, Arnault’s various advisers are pitch- MILAN — Tom Ford International is set to take its stage or the front row. That hasn’t stopped what Dior’s pub- ing a variety of candidates, among them Haider Ackermann, eyewear to the next level. lic relations battalion describes as “overwhelming” demand Hedi Slimane and Givenchy’s rising star, Riccardo Tisci. The American designer and Marcolin Group said for invitations. (For more on the Dior brand, see page 6.) Delphine Arnault, deputy managing director at Christian Thursday they have renewed their current licens- According to sources, the attendance of Dior and the daughter of the billionaire ing agreement for the design, production and world- luxury titan Bernard Arnault — typically LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chair- wide distribution of Tom Ford optical frames and flanked by glamorous Dior ambassadors John man, is said to be a champion of Tisci. In sunglasses through December 2022. such as Charlize Theron and French gov- Galliano a splashy cover feature in Madame Figaro The original agreement was signed in 2005. ernment figures — is not assured, owing to magazine in January, Tisci coaxed Arnault Maurizio Marcolin, style and licensing director the tug of other business obligations. to be photographed among five women said for the Marcolin Group, said the contract was re- Meanwhile, the John Galliano fall to be under his spell. (The others were Liv newed well ahead of its expiration date in 2015 be- collection is to be presented on Sunday Tyler, Isabelle Huppert, Vahina Giocante cause of the brand’s strong sales since the products in its appointed time slot, but in a dif- and Lou Doillon.) were introduced in October 2005 and the desire on ferent format and venue. Sources said “There won’t be any choice for quite both sides to plan long term. plans for a runway spectacle in land- a while,” said one source familiar with “Marcolin is an exceptional manufacturer and mark Left Bank brasserie La Coupole the French luxury group. “They’re re- partner. The extension is a natural result of the ex- have been changed in favor of a tableau ceiving offers.” cellent relationship that we have had over the past vivant format in a hôtel particulier. The It is understood overtures have been six years,” said Ford. designer will not be present. made recently to Ackermann as a pos- Although he declined to break out figures, Marcolin nnoni

Dior, which controls the John Galliano A sible candidate for Dior, or to succeed said Tom Ford eyewear is carried in around 12,000 i company, has yet to disclose its intentions G Tisci at Givenchy, should he be moved points of sale worldwide. “It’s still a selective distribu- for the business, now that its namesake nni over to Dior. tion compared to similar brands; we don’t plan to win VA designer is to stand trial this spring in a io Approached at the Ann Demeulemeester over the competition by over-distribution,” he said. French criminal court on a charge of pub- G show Thursday, Anne Chapelle, chief To this effect, Marcolin said the Italian group plans lic insult after three people filed com- executive officer and owner of Bvba 32, to grow Ford’s business through geographical expan- hoto by plaints alleging Galliano hurled racist P which controls the Haider Ackermann sion including new markets such as China and bolster- and anti-Semitic remarks at them. brand, declined to comment, saying the ing market share in existing territories, particularly If found guilty, he could face six months imprisonment focus for now should remain on Ackermann’s own show, in the U.S. The recent launch of Tom Ford’s women’s and a fine of 22,500 euros, or $31,207 at current exchange, scheduled for Saturday. Asked whether the designer would wear collection — introduced at retail last month — according to the Paris public prosecutor. Galliano has contractually be free to work for another house, should he is also set to ramp up the brand’s eyewear business, apologized “unreservedly” for his behavior in causing any be offered a role, Chapelle replied: “Everybody is free.” according to Marcolin. “We were selling women’s eye- offence, assured “anti-Semitism and racism have no part As principals at LVMH hunt for a successor to Galliano, wear before Tom launched his women’s wear collec- in our society” and reiterated he denies the claims made some are hoping to make a profit from their final deci- tion, but now we can showcase it through his own dis- against him and has commenced proceedings for defama- sion. PaddyPower.com, the British online betting site, has tribution network to drive additional sales,” he said. tion and threats made against him. odds on Stefano Pilati (11-8) or Hedi Slimane (9-4) getting Plans are also underfoot to expand the existing Dior initially suspended Galliano from his duties the top job. The odds are lower, however, for Tisci (3-1). optical frames side of the business, added Marcolin. on Friday and then ousted him on Tuesday amidst the Meanwhile, Nicolas Ghesquière, Kris Van Assche and In 2010, the publicly listed Italian eyewear com- mounting allegations and an explosive video depicting Roland Mouret are all tipped at 4-1. Alber Elbaz trails pany produced around 5 million pairs of glasses in the maverick designer saying in a slurred voice, “I love them with odds of 6-1. The site specifies that all bets apply more than 600 styles. In addition to Ford, Marcolin’s Hitler.” Dior condemned the statements made in the “To the next permanent, top Dior Creative Director after portfolio includes Dsquared2, Kenneth Cole, Tod’s, video and commenced termination procedures. John Galliano.” The person must be confirmed as a perma- Hogan, Web Eyewear, Cover Girl, John Galliano, Galliano, a London-born wunderkind who was the nent appointment by the ceo of Christian Dior. Roberto Cavalli, Just Cavalli, Replay, Miss Sixty, creative architect of Dior’s rejuvenation, has been its — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM KATYA FOREMAN, Swarovski and Timberland. couturier since 1996. Succession rumors continue to PARIS, AND SAMANTHA CONTI, LONDON — KERRY OLSEN

MTA offers a variety of services, in- sportswear brand Lipsy and the French Singer Named Partner at Traub cluding mergers and acquisitions, ven- children’s wear label Pearls & Popcorn. ture capital, real estate merchandising The latter will entail a major launch later NEW YORK — In a move that is meant to Traub and Singer — whom Traub de- and leasing and licensing. this year with a department store that both bolster business and lay the ground- scribed as “the unusual combination of a “We provide a service that is quite holis- will tie into the release of a music video. work for a succession plan, Mortimer very skilled banker and a very enthusias- tic. We are able to come at a problem from Singer declined to pinpoint MTA’s annual Singer’s role at Marvin Traub Associates tic merchant” — are now in their ninth a variety of angles,” Singer said. “We’re not billings for the six-person firm, which op- has been extended beyond president to year of working together. Both executives the kind of company to come in and hand erates out of Park Avenue offices. include partner. said they have been working toward this over a pretty pitch book or document after Last year, MTA lined up a joint venture But the company’s namesake, who re- setup for a while. so many weeks. From Day One, [when work- deal with Related Real Estate to open two mains chief executive officer, said he has “I am delighted to have Mortimer as ing with clients], we become part of the luxury shopping centers in Abu Dhabi. no intentions of retiring anytime soon. “It my partner,” said Traub. “He assumes this management and together build a plan that Earlier this year, they said their first proj- is important to emphasize I am having responsibility at a time when our com- is right for that particular arrangement.” ect would be The Galleria at Sowwah a very good time,” said the 85-year-old pany is at an all-time peak. Mortimer has Launched in 1992 by Traub, the for- Square. MTA and Related had not worked Traub. “I’m very busy at this point and helped to broaden the scope of and depth mer chairman and ceo of Bloomingdale’s, together since they collaborated on the the business is doing very well. I have no of our services and, in doing so, we are the company now has 25 clients in 11 Time Warner Center, the shopping mall in plans to step aside. But clearly at my age able to provide a wealth of experience, countries. New undertakings include Manhattan’s Columbus Circle. we’re building for the future.” expertise and value for our clients.” executing U.S. launches for the British — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is Daily Quote toDay on WWD.CoM [email protected], using The individual’s name. Backstage WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ■ COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. at Balmain. FASHION WEEK: See reviews and full VOLUME 201, NO. 45. Friday, March 4, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and runs of show from Paris Fashion Week, holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, November and December, two additional issues in February, March, April and including Balmain, Balenciaga and Rick August and three additional issues in September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance I like Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: Owens, at WWD.com/fashion-shows-reviews. S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief ■ BEAUTY: Read about German beauty Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. retailer Douglas Perfumeries’ 100th 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B the whole anniversary and Brazilian Blowout’s 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North new formaldehyde-free formula at Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on WWD.com/beauty-industry-news. most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we freak-show ■ EYESCOOP: See more images receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new from Chanel’s party celebrating Blake subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence Lively at WWD.com/eyescoop. to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the

r request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at atmosphere. A ■ BUSINESS: More financial news [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Group magazines on the World and daily stock movements at Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please

hine Ach WWD.com/business-news.

P advise us at P. O .Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE — Rick Genest, ■ ONLINE THIS WEEKEND: FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK Del Story of the Week (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. style, paGe 5 THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ■ GLOBAL BREAKING NEWS ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND

Photo by OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. fall 2011 ready-to-wear Dries Van Noten

we’ve got your NUMBER

‹ 44 of 56 ›

THE GLOBAL PICK FOR FASHION ONLINE PHOTO: YANNIS VLAMOS / GORUNWAY.COM; VIDEO: INDIGITAL MEDIA VIDEO: INDIGITAL VLAMOS / GORUNWAY.COM; PHOTO: YANNIS 4 WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 4, 2011 For stock chart and more Financial news, see WWD.com/ financial business-news. Feb. Comps Top Estimates, Fuel Optimism {Continued from page one}

Investors absorbed the upbeat news and sent the Dow February sales were only slightly Jones Industrial Average up 191.40 points, or 1.6 percent, impacted by higher gas prices. to 12,258.20, for its best session since its 2.3 percent in- crease on Dec. 1. Retail stocks also locked in strong gains as the S&P Retail Index rose 5.87 points, or 1.2 percent, to 514.39, its best showing since a 1.5 percent leap on Feb. 8. Some of the strongest retail stock showings of the day came from stores that exceeded analysts’ expectations. Hot Topic’s 1.4 percent decline was better than the 5 percent dip anticipated, and shares rose 5.5 percent to $5.57. Zumiez Inc.’s 12.8 percent spike was rewarded with a 5.5 percent increase in its shares, to $27.36, and Stein Mart Inc.’s 8.2 percent increase led to a 5.2 per- cent run-up in its shares, to $8.75. The Wet Seal Inc., up 7 percent for the month versus an estimate of a 1 per- cent decline, saw its shares rise 4.9 percent to $4.04. Analysts were quick to point out that, while the February retail numbers were encouraging, they didn’t reflect the full effect of the recent rapid spike in gas prices, which this week lifted the national average to $3.39 a gallon. Doug Hart, partner, Retail and Consumer Product Practice of financial services firm BDO USA, said the positive news for February is that “most chains report- ed a sales momentum that grew as the month went on. But one headwind to watch out for is gas prices, which hit consumers disproportionately. We saw that in 2007. It didn’t kill retail sales during the period, but it put a damper on some sales.…Obviously, the rise in fuel costs will impact the mid- to lower end of the consumer base more than those at the high end.”

Laura Gurski, head of the retail practice at A . T. fEBRUaRY comp cRUx Kearney, observed, “We haven’t yet [seen] any inflation- February Same-Store SaleS ary increases in the numbers [since] gas prices spiked up LET IT SNOW: Wickedly wintry weather, especially recently.…Once consumers start to feel it in their pock- FEB. 2011 FEB. 2010 JANUARY DECEMBER etbooks, we’ll see a shift in the mix of retailers that per- % ChANgE % ChANgE % ChANgE % ChANgE

through the midsection of the U.S., couldn’t keep form well in the second half.” DEPARTMENT STORES consumers out of the stores, and specifically away According to David Bassuk, head of the global retail Bon-Ton -0.5 0.5 0.3 0.1 from the apparel racks, in February. Thomson practice at AlixPartners, there’s generally a two-month DillarD’s -1.0 2.0 6.0 7.0 lag from the rise in gas prices to the impact on consumers’ Reuters expected same-store sales to rise by 3.6 budgets. He’s also expressed concern about how higher J.C. Penney 6.4 1.2 -1.2 3.7 percent last month, but its monthly same-store soft goods prices will be received by consumers, beginning Kohl’s 5.0 3.7 1.4 3.9 sales index landed at a heady 4.2 percent, even this spring but cresting’’ during the second half of the year. MaCy’s 5.8 3.7 2.6 3.9 “This is a primary headwind ahead for us,” he said. better than the 4 percent finish of February 2010. “The average cost increases that retailers and brands neiMan MarCus 12.7 5.1 9.8 4.7 face is north of 17 percent. There is no way they can norDsTroM 7.3 10.3 4.8 8.4 BEST OF THE BUNCH: Saks Inc. reported the pass that on to consumers. saKs 15.3 2.0 4.4 11.8 “This is going to be painful for retailers. The ris- sTage sTores -7.2 -3.9 5.1 1.9 month’s strongest comparable-store sales growth, ing costs will continue to swell when sales are at their at 15.3 percent, as well as the biggest “beat” height at the end of the year,” Bassuk said. AvERAgE: 4.9 2.7 3.7 5.0 versus expectations, which were pegged at 4.9 Having been through several years of a highly promo- tional climate, consumers might fail to bite. SPECIALTY ChAINS percent. Second in both categories was the current “The consumer is trained to buy on a deal or promo- Banana rePuBliC -4.0 6.0 4.0 1.0 reigning champion of the teen sector, Zumiez Inc., tion. In the last 12 months, there’s a new sense of confi- BaTh & BoDy WorKs 10.0 11.0 9.0 4.0 dence on the part of the consumer that a deal isn’t a deal which finished the month ahead 12.8 percent, BuCKle 2.1 5.1 4.3 6.1 until it’s 50 percent to 70 percent off. There are no signs versus a 4.2 percent estimate. Limited Brands Inc. the consumer is willing to accept increases in [apparel] CaTo 5.0 3.0 -4.0 0.0 again excelled, comping up 12 percent with the DesTinaTion MaTerniTy 3.7 -9.3 1.1 1.2 help of Victoria’s Secret’s 15 percent advance. gaP (u.s. sTores) -1.0 0.0 0.0 -8.0 This is going to be hoT ToPiC -1.4 -7.0 -3.3 -1.7 COLD CONSOLATION: Stage Stores Inc.’s 7.2 percent olD navy -4.0 5.0 -3.0 -2.0 decline was the weakest showing among WWD’s painful for retailers. The rising PerfuMania 6.2 5.5 1.3 -7.4 sample, but chief executive officer Andy Hall also costs will continue to swell riTe aiD 1.1 -3.2 1.1 0.6 proffered a credible explanation for it: The snow- viCToria’s seCreT 15.0 10.0 35.0 8.0 swept states of Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas and when sales are at their height Walgreen 7.8 0.4 6.1 2.8 Missouri represent more than half the company’s WeT seal 7.0 4.7 6.2 -2.1 sales, and even a pickup of about 10 percent in at the end of the year. ZuMieZ 12.8 11.2 15.3 9.2 the second half of the month couldn’t erase — DaviD Bassuk, alixPartners AvERAgE: 4.3 3.0 5.2 0.8 earlier decreases. MASS MERChANTS costs when that’s added to the impact on rising fuel pric- BJ’s Wholesale CluB * 2.4 3.9 0.3 1.4 SECTORALLY SPEAKING: Department stores had the es. Shopping sites such as Gilt Groupe and Groupon are biggest gains for the month, averaging 5.3 percent changing the way consumers think and shop,” Bassuk said. CosTCo * 4.0 4.0 6.0 4.0 To survive possible turbulence, he concluded, retail- ross sTores 3.0 11.0 3.0 4.0 on the Thomson Reuters index, although apparel ers are “going to have to manage their inventory tightly sTein MarT 8.2 -9.3 -1.2 -1.9 stores were up more if Gap Inc.’s 2 percent decline [and] aggressively mark down goods to clear them out. was excluded. With Gap, they were up 3.1 percent; You’re going to see a competitive environment in the TargeT 1.8 2.4 1.7 0.9 fall. It will be survival of the fittest.” without, up 5.6 percent. TJX Cos. 3.0 10.0 2.0 2.0 Arnold Aronson, managing director of retail strategies AvERAgE: 3.7 3.7 2.0 1.7 at Kurt Salmon, said, “February saw a great conversion OVER AND OUT: February marked the first month rate to spring goods and retailers showed they know how TALLY: that the Three A’s of Teen Retailing — Abercrombie to come out of the recession and be profitable. However, [the headwinds] mean retailers have to stay very disci- uP 22 23 23 22 & Fitch Co., Aéropostale Inc. and American plined. They need to get as much sell-through’’ as possible.” flaT 0 1 1 1 He said he expects stores to adjust by tweaking their Eagle Outfitters Inc. — didn’t report comps. The DoWn 7 5 5 6 remaining teen retailers averaged a 4 percent assortments: “You’ll be seeing a good/better/best story, with retailers concentrating on where they have natu- TOTAL 29 29 29 29 increase. — ARNOLD J. KARR rally high gross margins,” he concluded. SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS * ExClUdES fUEl SAlES  —WITHCONTRIBUTIONSFROM  ARTHURFRIEDMANANDARNOLDJ.KARR WWD friday, march 4, 2011 5 WWD.COM

Alberta Ferretti and Emma Ferretti Unveils Emma Watson Line Watson. By LUISA ZARGANI Jane-Birkin-in-the-Seventies image in mind,” said Ferretti of the inspiration. While more ac- MILAN — The “green” capsule collection by cessible to a wide range of customer than her Alberta Ferretti and British actress Emma signature collection, the designs, Ferretti said, Watson is only the first step in a long-term proj- still feature her feminine and romantic touch- ect that will associate Ferretti with “sensitive es. Prices range from 250 euros, or $345, to 850 people, who want to be supportive of these kind euros, or $1,173 at current exchange. of issues,” the designer told WWD. “I’m pleased that a luxury brand such as Produced with materials and techniques Alberta Ferretti has decided to create ecologi- that are environmentally cal clothes,” said Watson. friendly and made in Italy, “I believe this is a big step the collection is labeled forward for all of the inter- Pure Threads by Emma national fashion industry, Watson Alberta Ferretti but also an important step and will be available ex- for an increased sensitivity clusively on albertaferretti. to the problem of ecology.” com beginning March 21. “I’m grateful Emma “Rather than an op- accepted this creative portunity, this is an urgent partnership that can con- project,” said Ferretti. tribute to fashion and to “Ecological materials cost the health of the planet,” twice as much, and selling said Ferretti of Watson. online is a way to reach The actress, internation- customers around the ally known for her role as world faster, while contain- Hermione in the “Harry ing costs.” Potter” films for more Part of the proceeds will than a decade, has worn be donated to People Tree, a nonprofit organiza- Ferretti designs over the years and is emerging tion Watson supports. People Tree collaborates as a fashion plate on the red carpet, in addition with manufacturers in 15 developing countries to appearing in Burberry’s ads. and stimulates small companies to produce low- “She’s an actress I’ve followed since her early impact clothing. days. I like her freshness, her spontaneity and The collection, whose packaging is also envi- simplicity,” said Ferretti. “She is intelligent, with ronmentally friendly, consists of five pieces: two a strong personality, a young, modern girl of today dresses, a shirt, a long skirt and a pair of denim but aware of social issues at the same time and A look shorts, all enriched with lace embroideries very rigorous. This is a moment that demands from the and made with organic fabrics such as cotton strong attention to these issues and we can help collaboration. poplin, cotton muslin and hemp. “Emma had a in communicating them,” said the designer.

Tokyo Girls Teams With YouTube Carrefour Profits Rise 11.3% TOKYO — Tokyo Girls Collection, a massive with Vogue, we were able to do it this time.” By JOELLE DIDERICH and did not achieve all our targets and I’m event epitomizing the fun and flirty world Luxury brands have been suffering con- JENNIFER WEIL clearly not pleased with that,” he said of Japanese fashion, is about to get an even siderably in Japan as the economy stagnates at a results presentation Thursday. “It larger audience. and consumers curtail their discretionary PARIS — Carrefour SA, the world’s could have been better, but I’m sure TGC’s organizers have partnered with spending, so it’s only logical that labels are second-largest retailer after Wal-Mart you noticed our determination to take Google to create a custom YouTube plat- finding new ways to drum up business and Stores Inc., said full-year net profits radical decisions, fix problems and re- form to live-stream the event for the first win over consumers. Nagaya said it makes from recurring operations rose 11.3 inforce control where needed.” time. People around the world will be able sense for these brands to target TGC. percent to 382 million euros, or $507.3 In 2011, Carrefour aims to roll out to view in the proceedings, which take place “That’s [how people dress everyday in million, reflecting the impact of “sig- its new Carrefour Planet hypermar- Saturday at a former Olympic stadium here. Japan]. People don’t dress all in the same nificant” one-off charges. ket concept at a sustained pace, de- “I think there are still many girls who brand, but they might have just a bag, shoes, Carrefour had said in January that velop its private-label products and want to come but can’t,” TGC’s chief pro- accessory or jacket from a high-end brand, its operating profits would fall slightly — excluding the hard discount brand ducer Ayako Nagaya said Thursday. “We’ve and then mix that with fast fashion,” she said. short of its most recent guidance after Dia — reduce current operating costs been doing this event for six years and our Google has set up three TGC YouTube the company booked one-off charges by a further 480 million euros, or mission has always been to bring Japanese channels, which will show live-streamed in Brazil and five other countries re- $665.5 million at current exchange. ‘real clothes’ to the entire world.…But now videos of not only the event’s fashion shows, sulting from recent audits. Earlier this week, Carrefour submit- by working with Google we will be able to but also interviews with models and back- Reported and restated operating ted a proposal to employees and share- reach new platforms, such as smartphones stage footage. There will also be an interac- profits for the full year came in at holders to spin off 100 percent of Dia and Android.” 2.97 billion euros, or $3.94 billion, and 25 percent of its real estate divi- More than 20,000 people are expect- up 9.3 percent versus 2009. This sion, Carrefour Property, and distribute ed to attend this edition of the biannu- compared with the company’s down- the shares to Carrefour shareholders in al TGC. It’s a lavishly produced affair wardly revised target of 3 billion the form of an extraordinary dividend. in which Japanese models stroll down euros, or $3.98 billion, for 2010. Standard & Poor’s Thursday the runway waving and blowing kisses Dollar figures are converted from downgraded Carrefour’s long-term to their fans and showing off hyper- euros at average exchange rates for corporate credit rating to “BBB+” girly looks from local brands like Cecil the 12-month period. from “A-” due to the plans. McBee, Ravijour and Chesty. Sales gained 5.5 percent to 90.1 “The timing of the potential pay- Attendees pay an entrance fee of as billion euros, or $119.64 billion, driv- out will coincide with the uncertain- much as 7,500 yen, or $91.59, and they en by Carrefour’s growth markets. ty that still surrounds the success of can buy the fashions via cell phone Sales in Latin America were up by Carrefour’s capital-intensive hyper- as they come down the runway. J-pop 31.3 percent year-on-year, while Asia market restructuring in France, and performances punctuate the daylong saw revenues rise 18.5 percent. with its continued expansion into festivities. All of the presale tickets for However, the group noted that per- developing markets, which in our Saturday’s edition have been sold. formance in France, which accounts view will likely not leave any room The YouTube deal isn’t the only new for 40 percent of the group’s sales, for lowering capital expenditure,” The Tokyo Girls Collection YouTube page. element of TGC this season. Luxury was disappointing in the last quarter the credit ratings agency said. brands are tapping into the event as part tive element that will allow users to submit due to weak back-to-school sales and Also during this year, Carrefour of a special runway show from Vogue Girl, questions to models and stylists, which have year-end promotions. Revenues in intends to step up its rate of expan- which will be launched as a stand-alone a chance of being answered during Q&A ses- France crept up 1.9 percent in 2010 sion with 800 store openings, pri- publication in Japan on March 12. sions throughout the seven-hour event. against the backdrop of a 1.8 percent marily in growth markets. Vogue Girl will send out its own stylized The fashion show videos will be anno- slide in the rest of Europe. Having launched six pilot looks combining clothing from fast-fashion tated with links that take users directly to The retailer last week said that Carrefour Planet stores in 2010, the chains and Japanese labels with accessories an e-commerce site, where they will be able Vicente Trius, executive director company plans to roll out the hy- from luxury brands including Yves Saint to purchase the clothes as they see them Europe and a member of the group’s permarket concept to 92 stores in Laurent, Fendi and Marc Jacobs. “Until coming down the runway. But the site is in executive board, would leave Carrefour France, Spain, Belgium, Italy and now we’ve never been able to do a show Japanese and deliveries are limited to Japan. in the coming weeks to take up the po- Greece next year, rising to 241 stores that featured mixed looks made up of items In addition to the collaboration with sition of president of Canadian retail by the end of 2013. from high-end brands as well as [everyday Google and YouTube, TGC will be adding a company Loblaw Cos. Ltd. “We are ready in 2011 to make a clothes] from fast-fashion or 109 brands,” 3-D element to its spring show. The runway Carrefour chief executive officer huge step forward,” said Olofsson. Nagaya said, referencing Tokyo’s popular shows will be accompanied by 3-D-friendly Lars Olofsson said, despite recent set- “In terms of external environment, fashion mall Shibuya 109, which attracts additions such as lasers, and a 3-D film of the backs, the company’s 2009-2012 trans- we do not expect things really to be young women in their teens and 20s. “We event will be shown at cinemas across Japan formation plan remained on track. very different from 2010, and in that haven’t been able to get approval from the on March 26 and 27. “I will not use the challenging en- context, we will increase our sales high-end brands, but since we’re working — KELLY WETHERILLE vironment around us as an excuse. We and our current operating income.” 6 WWD Friday, March 4, 2011 Eight Is Magic Number for Dior Watch Debut By JoeLLe DiDeriCh The four evening versions, dubbed grand Bal, are the haute horlogerie equivalents of couture pariS — Christian Dior is hoping a lucky number and will become available in november in lim- will help propel its new watch range to the rank of ited editions of 18 apiece. The watches feature brand icon. white gold oscillating weights set with diamonds The Dior Viii line, due to be launched in June, that are placed not in the back, as is usual, but on is inspired by founder Christian Dior’s fetish the dial to become a central decorative feature. number, which recurs in the history of the french Dubbed the “Dior inversé,” the automatic move- luxury label. founded on oct. 8, 1946, Dior has ment caliber by renowned watchmaker frédéric its headquarters in the eighth arrondissement of Jouvenot adds technical dash to delicate designs paris and its jewelry flagship at 8 place Vendôme. inspired by the lace, embroideries and tulle “We wanted to create a new icon at Dior that skirts of ballgowns. could become an icon in the watch segment, in the “having the oscillating weight on top is a same way that the Bar jacket is an icon for ready-to- watchmaking feat, but for us, the important thing wear and haute couture, the Lady Dior for handbags is that it allows us to illustrate a couturier’s vi- and Dior J’adore in perfume,” Laurence nicolas, sion,” said nicolas. president of Christian Dior watches and fine jewelry, Several details suggest the launch is geared to- told WWD. ward asia, which is powering global demand for preparations for the launch were finalized by luxury goods, in particular high-end timepieces. the time Christian Dior this week began proceed- The number eight is traditionally considered aus- ings to oust its star couturier, John galliano, fol- picious in China, and nicolas noted that asian lowing allegations he uttered anti-Semitic insults consumers were increasingly leaning toward au- on several occasions. tomatic movements. The Dior Viii is not linked to any specific de- Dior has recently expanded its watch and jew- signer, unlike the label’s first three watch lines, elry presence in the region, dedicating a full floor which took their cue from in-house talent: Dior to the segment at its expanded flagship at one Joaillerie’s creative director Victoire de Castellane peking road in hong Kong, unveiled last month. for La D de Dior in 2003, former Dior homme de- however, nicolas said there were no plans to signer hedi Slimane for Chiffre rouge in 2004 and increase the number of stand-alone Dior watch galliano for Dior Christal in 2005. and jewelry stores, the first of which opened in instead, the design of the watch draws on the China last year at the plaza 66 shopping mall in house’s codes, with details reflecting Dior’s pas- Shanghai. other regions remain key to the devel- sion for architecture, the 18th century and haute opment of the division, she added. couture. The new range consists of three lines, “We have seen spectacular growth in China, The Dior VIII broadly corresponding to daytime, cocktail and in line with the rest of the market, especially advertising evening. with our new store openings, but europe remains campaign featuring The main collection, with eight references, fea- fundamental to our business. it’s a great territo- Charlize Theron. tures black lacquered dials, black ceramic brace- ry for us, and our roots are very european, very lets with pyramid-shaped links and rotating bezels parisian, so we are lucky to have a geographical with asymmetric patterns. The dial features plain mix that is not bipolar,” nicolas noted. hour markers, except for the roman numeral Viii at the $9,300 at current exchange rates). The executive declined to provide figures for Dior’s 8 o’clock position. The four 33 mm cocktail versions inject a dash of watch sales in 2010, in line with the company’s policy, but “it has the simplicity of a watch that aims to be the color with bezels set with baguette-cut diamonds, ci- was upbeat about the outlook for this year. “The first signs equivalent of the little black dress in a wardrobe, mean- trines, tsavorites or sapphires, with prices ranging from are very positive,” she said. ing that whether you wear it in 10 years or tomorrow, you 30,000 euros to 45,000 euros, or $41,000 to $61,500. The Dior Viii launch will be supported by an adver- never feel like you are following a trend,” said nicolas. The respective stones are matched by a neon lac- tising campaign featuring brand ambassador Charlize The watches come in two sizes, 33 mm and 38 mm, quer coating on the oscillating weight inside the Theron wearing nothing but a watch and a black coat. with either automatic or quartz movements, and fea- watch, which is visible through the back — a wink at “for us, this represents a major launch, and in order ture plain black or diamond-set dials and bezels. They de Castellane’s penchant for coating gold with colored to bestow it this iconic status, we are taking a long-term range in price from 3,500 euros to 6,800 euros ($4,800 to lacquer in her fine jewelry creations. view and basing it on a timeless image,” said nicolas. Executive Changes Ugg to Launch Luxe Collection At Tommy Hilfiger By Lauren BeneT STephenSon By LiSa LoCKWooD ugg auSTraLia iS expLoring Life beyond the shearling-clad outback with the launch of “rugged luxury” MoLLy yeariCK has been named president of line ugg Collection. Tommy hilfiger Wholesale north america. She ugg Collection by ugg australia is a 30-piece line of hand- succeeds Colleen Kelly, who is leaving her post bags and shoes, sourced in italy, being introduced for fall. after five years with the firm. The collection has an earthy palette of olive green, black yearick has been president of Calvin Klein and tan, with pops of royal blue and leopard. handbag sil- Men’s Sportswear. She will be succeeded by alex houettes include the side-strap satchel, a slouchy hobo Cannon, executive vice president of merchandis- and an oversize weekender bag, in italian Toscana leather, ing and design at Calvin Klein Men’s Sportswear. sheepskin, merino, suede and pony hair. ugg Collection foot- Both Tommy hilfiger and Calvin Klein are divi- wear was designed to harness the comfort of ugg australia sions of phillips-Van heusen Corp. in more upscale designs, with booties, stacked wedges and yearick, who joined Calvin Klein in 2003, knee-high leather boots. was previously executive vice president of NE

“a lot of our customers carry their designer handbag with o men’s sportswear sales at perry ellis, and be- the [ugg australia] classic boot, so we thought, Let’s fore that was vice president of men’s and boys’ give them something else that they can wear and sales at guess. IANNACC still feel good [in],” said Leah Larson, vice s “Molly has done an outstanding job in sup- president of product for MA porting the launch and growth of the Calvin Klein tho ugg australia. “We’ve been An Ugg Collection men’s sportswear business over the past seven by known for quality, and we black pony hair years. We believe her depth of experience and took that and put it into a satchel. leadership abilities will help continue to grow couture fashion line.” photos the Tommy hilfiger wholesale business,” said Larson, who’s worked Ugg Australia vice president of product Leah Larson, with a Ken Duane, vice chairman of wholesale for pVh. for the company for seven sampling from the Ugg Collection fall line. Kelly, who joined hilfiger five years ago, is years, spearheaded the leaving to pursue other opportunities. She was collection’s inception in updated, barely there logo and design details unavailable for comment. She is expected to august. “it’s kind of been such as stacked leather heels and convertible leave by the end of the first quarter. a dream. i’ve always boots — though virtually all designs have a thick “During the five-plus years, Colleen Kelly has wanted to make shoes sheepskin lining with treading on the soles. ugg made a number of significant contributions in in italy,” she said. Collection will go on sale in September, at both repositioning and growing the Tommy hilfiger Larson envisions traditional ugg australia outlets and high-end wholesale business, including the development the collection’s aes- specialty stores, with prices from $500 to $1,195. of our exclusive arrangement with Macy’s,” said thetic as “bringing Larson anticipates a widened consumer base as fred gehring, chief executive officer of Tommy out the romanticism a result of the foray into luxury. “We’re hoping to hilfiger group. of sheepskin.…We took get a lot of new ugg-love out of this. it’s very ugg, it Cannon joined pVh in June 2009. all the utilitarian details still has our Dna — there’s the sheepskin, there’s previously, he had his own lifestyle sportswear and kind of tweaked it.” the comfort, the quality, the luxury — it’s very much company and was president of CK Jeanswear These “tweaks” include an ugg, it’s just taking it up a notch,” she said. and Warnaco Men’s Wear. WWD FRIDAY, MARCH 4, 2011 7 WWD.COM Garment District Employment Falls NEW YORK — The number of fashion-related jobs in the Garment District has been slipping for years, but in 2010, the industry accounted memo pad for only 22 percent of private sector employment in that zip code. That diminishing fi gure was an eye-opener for Barbara Randall, ex- A MATTER OF OPINION: Executive editors David Shipley and Angela Burt-Murray, who moved to Atlanta in November ecutive director of the Fashion Center Business Improvement District, Jamie Rubin have begun hiring staff at Bloomberg View, the with her family. In addition to eBay, White served as which commissioned an economic profi le for the 15th consecutive new opinion arm of Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s Bloomberg founding fashion editor for Talk magazine, style reporter year. “We still think of the district as fashion and we see all the signs of L.P. The pair have hired fi ve editors so far, including Frank for the New York Times and executive fashion editor for fashion. But 22 percent is a shocking number to me,” she said. Wilkinson, an executive editor at The Week; Tim Lavin, a Elle. Former Essence editor Marcia Ann Gillespie, who New York City’s fashion industry employment fell 7.3 percent to 47,348 senior editor at The Atlantic, and Stuart Seldowitz, a three- assisted in the editor in chief search, joins the magazine for the fi rst quarter of 2010, compared with the same period in 2009. The decade veteran of the State Department. Seldowitz was as special project director. — AMY WICKS fashion industry’s manufacturing portion was 19,234 — a loss of 2,500 the acting director for South Asia at the National Security jobs. The wholesaling sector also dropped to 28,114, a loss of 1,224 jobs. As Council through the beginning of this year, and he worked YEAR OF RECOVERY, AND THEN SOME: In the U.S., The things stand, fashion industry employment represents a mere 1.6 percent as an adviser to the U.S. ambassador to NATO during the Financial Times may have a much smaller circulation of New York City’s private sector employment. Bush administration. than The Wall Street Journal and The However, in keeping with employment trends throughout New York Shipley, who left his post as op-ed editor at New York Times, but the pink paper’s City, declines in the fashion center’s 10018 zip code were not as steep as The New York Times to launch business model, which draws substantial they have been in recent years. From the first quarter of 2009 to the fi rst the Bloomberg opinion outfi t, revenues from its three-year-old quarter of 2010, total private sector employment in the district slipped has brought on his deputy of metered payment system for FT.com, 3 percent, which is slightly higher than the city’s average of 2.4 percent. fi ve years at the paper, Mary seems ahead of the curve. In terms of the area’s 1.57 million square feet of ground-fl oor Duenwald, and Toby Harshaw, A combined subscription for print retail space, the 14.6 percent vacancy rate is virtually unchanged. a career Timesman and former and online is $33.96 a month, and a Nearly 90 percent of those available spaces are on side streets. op-ed staff editor. Rubin, a former premium subscription to online only is On the upside, a variety of creative services — architectural assistant secretary at the State nearly $30 a month. Overall, FT.com’s fi rms, graphic designers, fi ne arts and theaters — have relocated Department himself, has a Times paid circulation is up more than to the area and coexist nicely with the fashion industry, Randall connection too. His sister Elizabeth 50 percent, to 207,000, a third of said. “It’s not as though all of a sudden the tone on the street is Rubin writes for the Times Magazine, total global paid circulation. Chief Rockefeller Center and it’s disruptive for people to be there.” most recently about Afghanistan. executive offi cer John Ridding said Manufacturing in the neighborhood and in other parts of the city Except for Rubin and Shipley, the advertisers are paying the same continues to decrease, a well-worn tale that many in the industry have staff won’t have titles. Some will work rates now for print and online. learned to accept year after year. But Randall has wondered for a while editing op-ed-style columns and others For 2010, the FT’s ad revenues how much lower it can go. “At some point, it has to stop. But it keeps going will function as an editorial board, rose more than 10 percent, down,” she said. “I remember three years ago thinking, ‘OK, this is it.’” writing unsigned opinion pieces. The thanks, in part, to the return of An infl ux of hotels and the retail sales their guests generate pro- length, frequency and style of those the luxury category, and FT.com saw double- vided some green shoots in the Fashion District, whose boundaries editorials is still being determined, digit ad revenue growth, helped by the rise of new extend from 35th to 40th streets, west of Fifth and east of Ninth av- according to one staffer. More hires are on the way. mobile platforms. “This [the U.S.] is our biggest market enues. Portions of 35th and 40th Streets are excluded, and sections The growing Bloomberg View staff is working out now,” said Ridding, noting that circulation in the U.S. of 41st Street and the Port Authority Bus Terminal, which extends of a 17,000-square-foot Stanford White mansion on is 120,000. How to Spend It, the FT’s weekend glossy to 42nd Street are included. Madison Avenue and East 78th Street that the mayor (which launched in 1994), posted a 40 percent increase Since the Hudson Yards’ rezoning went into effect in 2005, 25 hotels bought for $45 million in 2006. He lives nearby, and his in advertising, and the March 19 fashion issue will be have been built or are in development — most of which are between philanthropic organization, Bloomberg Family Foundation, the biggest ever published in the U.S. Eighth and Ninth avenues, Randall said. The 2,300 hotel rooms turn also has its offi ces on the premises. An enormous When it came to talking competition, Ridding over every 2.5 days, so the Fashion District’s demand for cafes, res- sculpture of a sperm whale was recently removed from wholeheartedly believes that when The New York Times taurants and stores is greater than ever. To try to keep those visitors the building’s lobby, but, according to Bloomberg L.P. implements its metered system, it will be successful. coming back, there is a greater emphasis on improved security and convention, a fi sh tank remains. — ZEKE TURNER But don’t hold your breath for an iPad-only version sanitation, Randall said. The Fashion Center BID is using planters of the FT. “We’re always in favor of innovation and and better lighting to try to jazz up the neighborhood. And although ESSENCE’S NEW EDITOR: Constance C.R. White, former experimenting, but I don’t see the need to invest in a the number of adult stores has decreased substantially, illegal oversize style director and brand consultant for eBay, has been new publication. Our current brand is doing just fi ne.” XXX signs could lead passersby to think otherwise, she said. tapped as editor in chief of Essence. She succeeds — A.W. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Spaces COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, SALES EXECUTIVE PRODUCTIONS CUSTOMER SERV. ASSOC. Established Manufacturer is looking Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast Luxury British beauty brand, Molton for a proven Account Executive to work. 212-869-2699 Brown seeks CS Assoc in NYC. Work manage a new division. Ideal candi- closely w/ Warehouse Staff to ensure date must have established relation- successful deliveries, info & support to ships in sportswear with a min 5 years our customers & Regional Sales experience in Sales & Merchandising. Mgrs.1-2 yrs of CS exp. preferred. Ben- Position requires excellent analytical, efits & competitive salary. Email: communication, follow-up & computer [email protected]. skills. Candidate must also be able to Showrooms & Lofts multitask & work in a fast paced envi- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS POSITION WANTED PLANNER ...... $85K ronment. It would be advantageous if Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Accessories Sales Executive, Major the applicant has a familiarity with ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Sales planning, Sears, Kohl’s Stores, looking for Sales Opportunity: Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 Outlook and Filemaker computer pro- Call 609 519 1399 [email protected] grams. Email resume & salary req to: [email protected] TECH DESIGNER Girls dress comp seeks exp, min 5 yrs, tech designer. Candidate must have knowledge of garment specs, grading, garment construction. Track prod process on daily basis, trims, fabrics, To subscribe, visit our website fit samples, etc. will work closely with designer. Strong Excel and communi- www.wwd.com/subscribenow cations skills a must. Maintain Work in Progress reports Email: or call 800.289.0273 [email protected]

Question about your To place an “ONLINE ONLY” Subscription? classified ad, log into WWDCAREERS.com Call 1-800-289-0273 and place your ad any time 8 WWD friday, march 4, 2011 WWD.COM

Blake Lively Waris in Chanel Ahluwalia Fashion scoops Haute and Couture. Justin Long DYNAMIC DUO: Expect a flash flood of VIPs tonight when Karl Lagerfeld unveils his second collaboration with Italy’s Hogan brand, part of Tod’s Group. Kanye West, Chloé Lambert, Daisy Lowe, Elisa Sednaoui and M.I.A are just a few of those expected to flock to the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild. The collection — spanning clothes and accessories — includes down jackets with snazzy asymmetric quilting and silver zips; sleeveless body warmers, and bomber jackets in leather and high- Lola Schnabel in Annabelle eye tech materials. Statement accessories vintage Vivienne Dexter-Jones include shopping bags, sneakers in Westwood. Lagerfeld’s signature black and white, and high-heeled oxfords with rubber soles. Lagerfeld also pulled out his cameras and snapped portraits of 13 personalities, each sporting items chosen from the Hogan by Karl Lagerfeld A Karl Lagerfeld sketch for Hogan. collection. Sitters for the black-and- white snaps include Kiera Chaplin, Elodie ones to have them. The collaboration Bouchez and a slew of models. was a one-off affair. Lavigne, sporting streaks of green and pink in her hair, is CLEAN SWEEP: “It’s spotless,” Amira in town to promote the release of her Casar pronounced about the gleaming new album, “Goodbye Lullaby.” She has bathroom-tile set at Thursday’s been tweeting about her press trip, which Balenciaga show. She should know, has also taken her to Hong Kong. “So having just wrapped up an Eran Riklis exciting. My first copy of my CD is the Dinner and a Movie film titled “Playoff,” in which she Japanese copy,” she noted. portrays an unlikely heroine. “I play a Who said everyone’s already in it,” she said. “i’d rather watch Sasha cleaning lady. I’m the only woman in FAMOUS FRIENDS: A little seating glitch at Paris this week? [Pivovarova] than me.” the film,” she said. A range of French the Zac Posen show Thursday helped Elle on Wednesday night, a group of downtown that evening, the film stars took in the show, including honchos Robbie Myers and Joe Zee better socials including Maggie Betts, Byrdie Cinema society and Tommy rising actresses Tahir Rahim and Pio define the nature of their relationship. Bell, Lauren Remington Platt, Marina Rust, hilfiger hosted a screening Marmaï. Marina Foïs, currently on When there was no apparent seat for Zee, Jamie Tisch and Lauren DuPont made of the hipster dramedy stage in a production of “Harper the magazine’s creative director, a public their to La Grenouille in new york, “happyThankyouMorePlease” Regan” in Paris, said she plays a relations rep for Posen suspiciously studied where Chanel held a dinner for Blake at the Landmark sunshine “whore” in her next film, opposite both his and Myers’ invitations. Things Lively, the official ambassador for its Cinema, followed by a party Charlotte Rampling. “She’s a bit of a weren’t looking too promising for Zee. new Mademoiselle handbag line. at the Top of The standard. Western-style whore: a lot of jackets Myers politely expressed a desire not only The event was a first stop for Lively, Much of the cast was on hand, with fringe,” she said. Marmaï said for Zee to be seated, but for the two well- who will be celebrated by the fashion including writer, director and clothes for his next film, opposite known colleagues to sit together, as they house with a second dinner in Paris star Josh Radnor, Malin Akerman, Audrey Tautou in the romantic always do. The p.r. searched for some kind on saturday. Zoe Kazan, Pablo Schreiber and comedy “La Delicatesse,” are more of rationale: “Are you friends?” she asked. on Wednesday, the “Gossip Girl” Michael Algieri, who at 10 years pedestrian, as he plays someone Befuddled and amused, both Myers star arrived fashionably late, testing old was one of the younger into jogging. and Zee answered in the boldest the nerves of at least one reveler. patrons of the hot spot Orlando Bloom, meanwhile, has a affirmative: “Yes…we’re friends!” It “Blake is an old friend of mine; formerly known as the Boom musical moment in his future. The didn’t work though. After a fretful she invited me,” Justin Long said. Boom room. actor’s next project is with the Los scramble by Posen reps, Zee was “i get a little uncomfortable with “i loved it. it doesn’t end in Angeles Philharmonic, starting next plunked down with his competitors at the fashion socializing, and since Blake a feel-good way but in a deeper, week. “They’re doing four nights of end of the row, about 10 seats away from is not here yet, i am glad i ran into more meaningful way,” said Tchaikovsky, and I’m doing Romeo,” his friend (and editor in chief). my friend Waris [Ahluwalia]. he is my Adrian Grenier of the film, which said Bloom, who explained “The life jacket.” won the audience award at Tempest” and “Hamlet” would also be KOOKY MONSTER: Seated front row at When Lively finally made her sundance. covered during the cycle. “I am going the Mugler show Wednesday night, way into the chic eatery, she greeted “it’s the new Brat Pack — it’s to go straight home into rehearsal and designer and longtime Lady Gaga guests, who also included Allison bringing back that eighties feel, do it,” he said. Rahim said he’s taking collaborator Jeremy Scott was fighting Sarofim, Annabelle Dexter-Jones, André which is my favorite genre,” a break after just finishing filming Jean- off major jet lag to witness the singer’s Balazs, Lola Schnabel and Hope Atherton. said Dree Hemingway of the pretty, Jacques Annaud’s “Black Gold,” in which catwalk debut in the show. Scott Lively, for her part, brought along youthful cast. also soaking up he plays a young prince. Isabelle Huppert saluted Gaga’s “appetite for anything her parents, who will accompany the scene were Carey Mulligan has been filming Michael Haneke’s next new and exciting that challenges the her to Paris this weekend. due to a and Amar’e Stoudemire, sports movie, “Amour.” status quo.” So would he be partying scheduling conflict, Lively won’t be illustrated swimsuit cover girl with her later? “Bag of bones sitting front row at the house’s show Irina Shayk, Ed Westwick channeling is the only way to describe my Tuesday, but what of the chances of Marlon Brando in a motorcycle state right now,” he groaned. her ever making it down the Chanel jacket and leather cap, Kelly A gaggle of hardcore fans runway herself? Bensimon, Gabourey Sidibe, Richard fought their way backstage “i would probably do anything Karl Meier and daughter Ana Meier and afterward, where the singer Lagerfeld asked me to do, but there are John Mayer with Russell Simmons, was holed up in her dressing so many models who are so good at huddled in a booth. Carey Mulligan room. “I’m totally obsessed with her,” said Anna Dello Russo, the fashion director of Japanese Dree John Mayer and Vogue and no slouch herself in Hemingway Russell Simmons the eccentric fashion stakes. in Tommy “I cannot compare with her, A Hilfiger. g please!” she said. Pucci creative HUNT/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM ASU director Peter Dundas said he had K seen Gaga in concert three times UKIE

Y and already had an idea of how NICHOLAS BY

he would dress her, if given the chance. “It would probably have PHOTO a bit of sparkle to it — but not a Avril Lavigne with a fan holding a pair of limited lot of it,” he said. Mario Testino ALL OTHERS BY ; edition Abbey Dawn jeans. was fresh off shooting the singer for the cover of the March issue

ICHNER WORTH THE WAIT: Some of Avril Lavigne’s of U.S. Vogue. “She is amazing to work E E v most dedicated fans spent a chilly night with — very professional and full of TE

S camped outside the Gap’s new flagship ideas and a very clear sense of who she in Tokyo to catch a glimpse of the is and where she wants to be,” he said. Canadian musician and snag one of the Emerging from her audience with the pop

PHOTOS BY 200 pairs of limited edition jeans her priestess, Dello Russo was buoyant. “I Josh Radnor in Tommy clothing label, Abbey Dawn, designed told her, ‘You are my hero,’ and she said Hilfiger with Malin Akerman for the American brand. The first 200 to me, ‘You are my hero.’ I said, ‘Lady in Jean Paul Gaultier. people in line got the skinny dark Gaga, don’t joke with me. But at least

CHANEL DINNER denim for free, and they will be the only leave me some outfits from the show.’” HAIR TODAY INNOVATION IS THE NAME OF THE GAME IN TODAY’S HAIR CARE MARKET.TWO JEANS FOR BRANDS SIX OF TAKETHE UNUSUAL WWDSTYLE NEWESTAPPROACHES IDEAS, SEE TOPAGE DENIM. 6. PAGE 3.

Coming to America After its European debut, L’Oréal is bringing Maison Martin Margiela’s fi rst fragrance, Untitled, to the U.S. for a yearlong exclusive at Saks Fifth Avenue, beginning next month. For more, see page 7.

PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA 2 WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, MARCH 4, 2011 Smooth and Sophisticated Balenciaga: “Welcome to the bathroom,” Balenciaga communications director Lionel Vermeil deadpanned to a guest arriving for the house’s show at the Hôtel de Crillon. He referred to the collections clinical white tiles covering the rooms’ fl oors and benches, the graphic expanse in counterpoint to, yet in synergy with, PARIS 2011 the majesty of the surrounding old- fall world decor. Creating synergy with the past, respecting it, and ultimately transforming it into something ultramodern and compelling is what Nicolas Ghesquière does best. For fall, the Balenciaga designer was at his brilliant best. In fact, the tiles were inspired not by the biggest, shiniest, most happily antiseptic bathroom you’ve ever seen but by Jean Pierre Raynaud’s Container Zéro installation. Yet those expecting a treatise on graphic austerity were wrong. Ghesquière showed, if not a gentler side, exactly, then a more obviously relaxed one (read: eased-up silhouettes) that sacrifi ced not a bit of his signature bravado. He called it “a game of perspectives and scale.” In the opening series, that meant multiple visual fi elds in a fusion of high chic: vests and jackets knitted from thick tubes of fake leather over sweaters made from wool strips on synthetic tulle, these in turn over dresses, their skirts draped fl uidly in front. They came in audacious nature prints on which tree-hugging lizards romped among the fl ora. There were also languid tunic dresses in linear blocks of color over skinny pants. (Would that the photographers had been afforded back shots, the better to capture their intricate constructions.) Ghesquière took his newfound ease into separates — skirts bordered in deep bands of fake leather worn with sturdy, no-nonsense ski sweaters. He also decorated tops and skirts with stiff fl at Balenciaga chains — a look more artistic than tough — for what he called “a jewelry story.” Rick Owens Throughout, he made a number of very specifi c archival references: round- shoulder coats, which he faced with bright blue and violet; sculptural vests with big spherical buttons, and tunics covered in scalelike paillettes. “When you see the core of the work, [Cristóbal Balenciaga] is always fascinated by the same subject, working it over and over,” Ghesquière said. “I am fascinated by the radical nature.” Fascinated, but never intimated. And for fall, fabulous.

Rick Owens: There was probably no better way for Rick Owens to open his show, partly inspired by his Catholic school upbringing in Porterville, Calif., than with a sudden, blindingly bright screen at the end of the runway. Let there be light, right? While such religiosity might steer a designer to lay things on thick, in Owens’ hands, the theme was superbly subtle — give or take a wimple or two. (But even here, a nun’s accoutrement du jour got the luxe treatment, made from plush mink.) Rather, Owens put the focus on “projecting purity,” which also opened him up to the work of artist Joseph Beuys. Thus, from start to fi nish, he worked a somewhat minimal and restrained vibe. Simple shapes were layered one atop the other to linear effect, creating staggered FOR FULL hemlines: a felt jacket over a roomy COVERAGE OF PARIS sweater dress over dropped-crotch shorts FASHION WEEK, SEE that hit below the knee. Picked apart, the clothes were fairly straightforward, plain even — though no less excellent. WWD.com/ Owens delivered on great, no-fuss knits — FASHION-SHOWS-REVIEWS. sometimes a girl wants to skip the novelty sweater — and precise, sculpted jackets, Balenciaga Rick Owens the latter fashioned from stiff fabrics WWDSTYLE friday, march 4, 2011 3

The latest round of winning collections was a study in sleek graphics, architectural cuts Smooth and Sophisticated and ladylike restraint. (leathers, meltons) and in architectural Balmain Balmain Nina Ricci cuts. Meanwhile, the down parkas, which the designer noted were a nod to similar versions by Charles James, came with flattened, demonstrative sleeves — yes, angel winglike. This was Owens in an utterly controlled, refined and reductive mood. “I like the idea of someone making the effort instead of just talking about sex,” he said, while adding that his pieces could still read plenty sexy. “These are clothes for somebody who has a very satisfying physical life and doesn’t need to talk about it that much anymore.”

Balmain: Christophe Decarnin was not present to take his bow at the end of the Balmain show. The designer was absent under doctor’s orders, after having recently been released from the hospital, where he was said to have been treated for depression. A Balmain spokesman said Decarnin was involved in the design. This season, he worked with a new stylist, Melanie Ward, who replaced Emmanuelle Alt, who is focusing full-time on French Vogue. Whatever the division of labor between designer and stylist, it made for a strong, cleaned-up take on Balmain’s standard fun and flash. Aesthetically, it was a welcome change to a look due for a bit of evolution. The first exit out was a shiny black suit: slick jacket over cropped pants that — surprise! — had breathing room. It set the tone for the rest of the show, which maintained the sparkle and sex appeal that customers have come to rely on while elevating the level of chic. The strong shoulder was reimagined as a goat hair shrug with a collar over a plain white shirt and black pants. The hemlines still bordered on indecent — in fact they might have actually climbed — but, delivered on elaborately tinseled tunics with long sleeves and a loose Nina Ricci fit, the short stuff was more refined. Perhaps most surprising was the improbable minimalist streak that coursed through the tailored goods. Embellished or not, jackets and plunging jumpsuits were cut with clean, fresh lines.

Nina Ricci: Peter Copping, designer of unapologetically feminine fare, based his fall collection for Nina Ricci on the work of such artists as John Currin, Marlene Dumas and John Singer Sargent. Thus, he had no choice but to title the collection “Portrait of a Lady.” If the headline, appropriated for fashion spreads too many times to count, read trite, the clothes did not. Like all great portraiture, classic or contemporary, Copping illustrated his subjects in expertly mixed colors — bottle green against baby blue; pale pink with black or burgundy. He used the drama of a neckline or the tilt of a hat — wide-brimmed rabbit fur styles, in this case — to draw his women in softly vivid lines. Much of it was all cast through a modern Victorian lens. Parachute silk blouses were gathered high around the neck, and robelike coats, some with fur trims, fell off the shoulders in romantic dishabille. Some of the best looks were done in rich, dark velvet, such as full-leg pants, not unlike track pants, and louche coats that tied with rope belts. There were sturdy men’s fabrics and radzimirs — both crinkled for texture — to counter the wispy silks and Copping’s beloved

Giannoni Giovanni lingerie looks. Though girly through

By and through, nothing was precious. In fact, this was one of Copping’s more

Photos sophisticated turns. 4 WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, MARCH 4, 2011

Ann Rue du Mail Zac Posen Demeulemeester collections

PARIS 2011 fall

FOR FULL COVERAGE OF PARIS FASHION WEEK, SEE WWD.com/ FASHION-SHOWS-REVIEWS.

Ann Demeulemeester: Dark, Goth, refi ned. As for the feather and a brown-and-black-stripe Zac Posen: Once again Zac Posen Eveningwear has always brooding and tough — Ann motif — she stuck black quills fur bib, some wondered if chose to ship his production to been the designer’s strong suit Demeulemeester can serve up into wide cartridge-pleated Martine Sitbon was moving in a Paris for fashion week on his and this season’s best in show that signature vocabulary in straps, bullet-belt-style — this Prada-esque direction. But the quest to be in the company he followed his beloved mermaid myriad ways, and those talking was the designer working her French designer soon proved keeps. It must be expensive to silhouette in ombréd silk. The points converged for one of wilderness warrior mood. she had plenty of ideas of her fl y everyone in, set up camp gray gown on Carmen Kass and her most beautifully romantic Demeulemeester signaled a own, delivering what was surely and book all the top girls. deep navy on Coco Rocha were collections — equal parts edge likelier muse midway through her best collection to date Last season’s exuberant Posen’s most tempting offers. and fragility. when Tchaikovsky’s “Swan under the Rue du Mail label. showgirls were met with a less When the fi rst models came Lake” boomed through the All her signature talents were than warm reception in the Undercover: One sure thing is that out in aggressively tailored speakers accompanied by the on display in outfi ts that ran the City of Light, which might be it’s great to have Undercover looks, some cut from hard crash of a mirror — a sound gamut from minimal to ornate. why Posen focused his sober return to the runway — Jun leathers, all majorly laced with effect from “Black Swan.” At one end, there were spare fall lineup on daywear. The Takahashi’s talent merits loose tendrils trailing in the Maybe there was something jackets and coats featuring black plain cropped pants and jersey it. He’s a whiz at taking back, the mind zeroed in on transformative about those satin strips appliquéd as trim pieces — tight turtlenecks and everyday wardrobe pieces and Edward Scissorhands. That terrifi c jackets with multiple or as trompe l’oeil pockets and tighter dresses — were the manipulating them, this season the models’ hair stuck straight zippered breakaway panels. And collars. At the other, the dresses most basic he has ever gone, by way of impactful collages. The up and out, as if their fi ngers those beastly Cousin Itt coats at which the designer excels and could certainly blend back of a denim pant revealed were jammed in a socket, only and gowns covered in goat hair? were in a range of organic- into the everyday workplace. a block of leather, for instance, underscored that thought. But Darren Aronofsky didn’t call his looking patterns that brought Fitted jackets with pronounced while a seemingly classic men’s Demeulemeester also folded in protagonist a “were-swan” for to mind Art Nouveau insect collars and peplums, some in jacket came fused with a sweater, gentler, feminine moments to nothing. And, yes, the plumes wing designs. These appeared lacquered woven wool, and big and a long cardigan was entirely soften the mood, as in the pretty fi t. Still, whatever the designer’s printed on waxy fabrics fur coats jazzed up the look, but lined in bonded technical fabric beaded fringed jacket and inspiration, the outcome was the reminiscent of oil tablecloths, ultimately failed to make an like a Mackintosh. The designer dresses (still black) that proved same: tough-chic made darkly or carved into a black felt dress impact. Blame the murky colors, was in his element with great a luxe parallel to the stringy elegant and lyrical. with a cream silk underlay such as a dimmed teal, olive outerwear pieces, such as a horsehair accents throughout. — just one example of the green and brown, and lackluster parka with appliquéd panels There were plenty of softly Rue du Mail: When the fi rst model delicately crafted pieces that styling — plain black pumps of pale pink shearling, or satin draped dresses and languid emerged wearing a gray thick, gave this beautifully executed and opaque tights are not a bomber jackets embroidered tailoring, both rendered utterly textured, knit sleeveless coat collection an intriguing edge. universal salve. with girlie cats. WWDSTYLE friday, march 4, 2011 5

Undercover Sharon Sacai Manish Mugler: It’s hard to judge Nicola Formichetti’s debut as Wauchob Arora creative director of the house that Thierry Mugler built as if it were a regular fashion show. About a dozen exits in, Formichetti’s muse and co-conspirator Lady Gaga — puffing on a cigarette under a domed hat — climbed onto the end of the catwalk and vamped for the photographers, assuring the media spectacle everyone expected. The set, a forest of thick pillars crowned with pointed arches to resemble a Gothic cathedral, made it hard to see the clothes as models flitted in and out of view, like a rapid-cut music video. Gaga’s new single, “Born This Way,” was mixed into the rumbling soundtrack she created, as was a never-heard single “Government Hooker.”

Lady Gaga at Mugler. Giannoni Giovanni D aitre an m Dominique by Photos

Plucked rabbit resembling the back, over a waffle knit with fur collars or vests. The razor- velvet was used for tops that a slightly ruffled hem. Though pleated chiffon dresses that looked like sweaters, while at times it was hard to decipher closed the show were threaded pants were done in sheared which looks were separates through with contrasting colored fur. Fabric blocking was all the or simply trompe l’oeil, it only ribbon for a scaly effect similar

rage and workwear accents ran speaks to Abe’s inventive wit. to bark or cracked mud. s Mugler s through the collection, which While she kept the hemlines had a charming Japanese street fairly short with reissues of last Manish Arora: Manish Arora sensibility. season’s swirly skirts, she pushed was up to his old tricks again forward on a new volume — thus, — magic tricks, that is. The Sacai: If there ever was a season the decision to show the clothes witty Indian designer hired a for Chisato Abe to shine, this in motion on models rather than bearded magician to perform was it. She’s a pro at splicing a still-life presentation. runway illusions — making — one of fall’s major trends — models mysteriously appear in and took that Sacai m.o. toward Sharon Wauchob: In a season in an empty cage, or temporarily wintry urbane turf, as in the which texture is key, Sharon separating their body parts opening look: a ribbed sweater Wauchob experimented with in a box. A giddy collision of with panels of chunky furlike weaving techniques and colors and fabrics went from fringe. But the collection, utterly embroidery to create effects both bell-shaped skirts ringed in charming and chic, reveled in light and dense. Starting with blue fur to reptilian frocks an opposites-attract approach, loose black openwork knits, she with spiky origami surfaces. too, in the stylish mash-ups of then sent out dresses assembled As usual, the lineup was high innerwear and outerwear, with from panels of perforated fabric on fantasy, but was also rich in a soupçon of futurism thrown in. and athletic mesh, to varying more wearable looks, such as a These were created via hybrid results. At its best, the collection Forties-style velvet Bordeaux garments (a vinyl-looking tank, exuded an air of medieval skirt suit with black tassels which on the return, showcased menace, with skirts embroidered and embroidery, or hand-cross- a slip) or an imaginative layering with thousands of metallic stitched suede patchwork technique, seen in the sleeveless rings for a chain mail effect, frocks in a wintry palette of safari jacket, cropped high in which were worn with chubby scarlet, purple and green.

DEAD MAN WALKING: Tattooing yourself to resemble a rotting corpse — complete with blackened eye sockets and insects crawling over your exposed brain — probably ranks low on the list of things a young man can do to attract attention from girls. Yet it seems to be working wonders for Rick Genest, aka Zombie Boy, who twitched his way down the Mugler runway, sharing the stage with Lady Gaga, who mimics his skeleton markings — and grinds against his loins — in her video for “Born This Way,” already surpassing seven million hits on YouTube.com. It’s a spectacular leap from the pubs and parks of Montreal, where Genest, 25, originated. He described his profession as a Here, perhaps, is a new formula for fashion, merging “sexual performer,” doing things one might expect a zombie to do — writhing entertainment, digital media, celebrity and outré clothes. on beds of nails and such. Even if the show failed to portray a strong commercial “I like the whole freak-show atmosphere,” said Genest, a reserved and platform from which Mugler can revitalize its business, it soft-spoken young man, who lovingly bundled up his runway togs after the succeeded in delivering a mood and attitude increasingly show and donned the black, no-label layers he wears in his usual life. “I’m rare. “I want to get fun back,” Formichetti declared backstage. into DIY,” he said. Tugging him from the backstage melee after the Mugler And so his models were encouraged to flail their arms, lip- show proved a challenge, as an endless stream of young women lunged to synch and growl and paw for the cameras in their see-through, have their photos taken with him. “It’s great, isn’t it?” Genest asked with animal-spotted tubes with ragged fur sleeves. a back slap. A man of few words, he seems as stunned with his rise from Despite the flickering, disorienting nature of the show, obscurity as everyone else. “I’m superprivileged,” he said. the impressions were clear: raw sex straight from the red- As his popularity explodes online, where his Tumblr and Facebook pages light district, and fierce fashion of the blood-and-guts variety. are bulging with fawning admirers of both sexes, comes word his modeling The clothes were skintight and glossy, exposing the body and career is about to explode. “Some biiiig stuff in development. Coming soon,” warping it in ways explored in Gaga’s latest video — and he tweeted on Feb. 24. true to the sculpted legacy of the founder. The shoulders of Asked about his next career step, he simply said: “To be continued,” and jackets pointed upward and pitched forward ominously. Pants dashed off to the Mugler after party, a plastic glass tucked into the pocket of sprouted bonelike shapes at the hips and membranelike his overcoat. panels toward the ankle. Dresses had sheer portholes framed Mugler’s creative director, Nicola Formichetti, who discovered Genest on by ragged fabric edges, as if they’d exploded or were shot Facebook and anointed him his men’s wear muse, had to scare up a passport through with a cannon. Formichetti and Gaga are proponents in a jiffy to get him on a plane in time for the men’s show in Paris in January. of a strange beauty, believing fashion can transform and “He gets so many offers now,” Formichetti said. “He’s a born superstar.” Rick Genest, aka Zombie Boy. empower people who weren’t born that way. 6 WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, MARCH 4, 2011 beauty Hair World Innovations abound in every corner of the hair care market, from Sephora’s spotlight on hair color to drugstore items that aim to make RITA HAZAN ROOT CONCEALER TEMPORARY hair weatherproof. Below, spring’s key offerings. By Andrea Nagel, COLOR TOUCH-UP SPRAY After fi ve years and many, many trials, celebrity with contributions from Julie Naughton hair colorist Rita Hazan and owner of Rita Hazan Salon NYC has created what she thinks will change the way women cover up their roots between salon visits, as users seeking root touch-ups or highlights can get results by simply spraying them on. The spray can, she said, has an accentuator, which took FREDERIC FEKKAI FOR PROENZA SCHOULER Some girls want a year to fi nd (alas, it is made in New Jersey) so a beauty regimen wrapped up in a neat, pretty package. that it makes a direct route onto roots or wherever Enter Frédéric Fekkai, who, for many seasons, has it is pointed. Formulas (they are available in four coiffed the hair of the Proenza Schouler runway neutral shades) are permanent until washed out girl. And to be sure that afi cionados can and are impenetrable to working out and even rain, achieve what they see during fashion as they are made from natural pigments, not dyes. week, a limited edition Proenza Resin helps the product hold onto hair and silicone Schouler linen tote bag has been makes hair shiny. Items enter Sephora nationwide designed and stocked with key Fekkai March 24. Each sells for $24. products. The bag, which has calf leather accents in Fekkai’s signature blue, contains Fekkai Advanced Brilliant Glossing Cream, Marine Summer Hair Beach Waves and Fekkai Sheer Hold Hairspray. The bag will retail COUTURE COLOR for $350 beginning April 1 at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Shari Glazer, a busy Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. working mom who loves the“perfect shade of blonde” she gets from the salon, became frustrated with the time and expense and OJON COLOR SUSTAIN AND DAMAGE effort that came with REVERSE RITUALS it. So Glazer went out The brand is adding one new Ritual (its name for solution- and developed Couture based lines) and expanding a best-selling second this spring. Color, positioned as The new addition, Color Sustain, is powered by Tahitian monoi luxury, at-home hair oil, coconut oil infused with tiare fl owers. The oil’s nonaffi nity color, designed to offer for water gives it a unique ability to help prevent color loss, salon results at home. said the brand’s founder, Denis Simioni. Color Sustain includes Couture Color offers Color Protecting Cream, Color Revealing Conditioner, Color the top nine shades Revealing Shampoo and Gloss Finishing Hair Spray, ranging in usually requested price from $22 to $24. The brand is also adding a new shampoo at salons (including and conditioner to its signature Ritual, Damage Reverse, which the perfect shade of includes a Finishing Spray, Hair Treatment and four Smoothing blonde) with ammonia-free formulas and color that Glaze options, one apiece for blondes, brunettes and redheads, is time released “so that it slowly delivers a color and a version that can be used with any hair color. Damage that lasts,” Glazer said. Couture Color will be sold Reverse products range in price from $24 to $33. All new at all Sephora doors beginning in April and also products launch March 15 in about 1,050 U.S. specialty store will be sold on HSN featuring celebrity hair colorist doors, including Sephora. Johnathan Gale on March 28 and 29. It will cost $30.

TRESEMME CLIMATE CONTROL About 50 percent of women between 18 and 34 check the temperature before deciding on how to style their hair, according to Bob Gorman, U.S. director of marketing for TRESemmé. With that in mind, TRESemmé has formulated a hair care line that looks to create a barrier between hair and the weather by combining keratin, UV blockers and a blend of polymers to lock in moisture without weighing hair down, help fi ght static ESALON: For those who live for shopping online, buying hair color electronically shouldn’t and protect hair from the be too much of a stretch. Esalon began selling its $22 custom-made, at-home hair color sun’s rays and humidity. products online in September, thanks to a network of hair color experts, suppliers and site- TRESemmé Climate building experts. By logging on to its Web site, users are asked a multitude of questions Control includes a shampoo, about their hair, skin tone and coloring history. And from about 2,000 colors, one is selected conditioner, mousse and just for them. Reorders work off of a client’s original customized formula and are tweaked hair spray. Items enter mass based on feedback or left alone if the experience was perfect. Esalon, which guarantees

stores this month and will a customer’s money back if he or she is unsatisfi ed, is kicking off an online marketing STEPHEN SULLIVAN

sell for $4.49 each. campaign this year to drive consumer traffi c to its site. BY PHOTOS WWDSTYLE friday, march 4, 2011 7

Margiela Scent to Launch Stateside Chien Aims for U.S. Masses NEW YORK — Joanna Chien wants American women to treat By JUlIe NAUgHTON in its other markets,” said de skin care as an essential daily regimen — much like brushing lesquen. their teeth. Her goal is that all women will be able to afford AFTer A WArm-UP in The woody green floral, the latest technology. europe, maison martin concocted by givaudan’s That’s why she abandoned her management position at margiela is ready to take on Daniela Andrier, has top notes Deloitte seven years ago and, with a $30,000 investment, found- the U.S. fragrance market of galbanum essence and or- ed Unt Skincare (Unt is an abbreviation of untitled). The vision with the house’s first scent. ange blossom absolute; a heart was to deliver high-technology products backed by physicians launching in April, the of lentiscus, jasmine and gal- at affordable prices, often half of upscale counterparts. For ex- scent — like the house’s banum resinoid and a drydown ample, Unt’s Prodige plant stem cell serum (formulated with founder — aims to break the of incense and musk. rare apple stem cells) retails for $59.99 for a 1-oz. bottle. norms of a traditional launch: marc rey, president of There are 10 physicians on board, ranging from plastic the juice’s name is Untitled, International Designer surgeons to dermatologists, who help Unt stay on top of skin it’s a women’s fragrance that, Collections at l’Oréal USA, care trends including whitening, antiaging and acne rem- with its astringent green notes, noted the scent will launch edies. Visitors to the Web site, shopunt.com, can could easily be mistaken for a first in Saks Fifth Avenue. upload a photo of themselves and get men’s launch, and its under- “This is a scent with a very these experts’ recommendations on stated bottle has a generous strong identity, and it is very skin remedies. Other items in the line- helping of the designer’s sig- much about the in-store ex- up feature everything from hyaluronic nature white. perience,” he said, noting acids, copper peptides and stem cells. “This is a very important the brand will use a number Unt products are currently sold launch for us,” said renaud of nontraditional sampling in almost 91 countries, mostly via de lesquen, president of vehicles, including ostrich Internet sales. The architecture of the maison martin margiela A visual for the brand. feathers. more traditional firm — a tight staff, small advertising Fragrances at l’Oréal, the sampling, such as deluxe min- spending and costs controlled through house’s fragrance license. “The unique nature of iatures and vials on cards, also will be used. “Saks Internet distribution — allows Unt to this scent — it is a very different juice — has the Fifth Avenue understands the artisanal nature of keep its retail prices down. But just as capacity to build loyalty. It is so unusual that it is this project, and their clientele is extremely so- many retailers and suppliers are hun- difficult to move on to another scent. We are ex- phisticated. That is the market we are reaching gry for growth in U.S. brick-and-mortar cited about entering the American market with this for with this fragrance.” While it is likely busi- stores. Chien has a goal of bringing Unt Prodige plant stem scent, especially as it is a large and very competi- ness will expand after Saks’ yearlong exclusive, to American mass chains and direct cell serum. tive market.” the fragrance will always remain very selective, marketing channels within the year. Untitled launched in select european mar- said Sejal Shah, vice president of marketing for The timing could be right, as there is mushrooming demand for kets — France, Belgium, the U.K. and Italy, for a european Designer Fragrances at l’Oréal USA. Asian products and high-technology skin care at prices that fit total of about 350 doors globally) in march 2010. While executives declined comment on sales the drugstore and discount channels. “We have had tremendous success in europe with projections, industry sources estimated the scent The line is broad, encompassing more than 250 skin care the fragrance. It was number one at Selfridges for would do around $3 million at retail in the U.S. in stockkeeping units, but also nail and color cosmetics. many months and has also achieved strong sales its first year on counter. — Faye Brookman Register by March 17 and receive a special rate! Speakers include:

th

FORUM Vasso Petrou beauty THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY INC. May 17, 2011 New York City

Jo Horgan MECCA COSMETICA brand. new.

Alexander Bolen OSCAR DE LA RENTA

FOR INFORMATION: Marne Friedman / 212.630.4379 [email protected] Laurice Rahme BOND No. 9

Lynne Greene THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.

Claudia Lucas QVC INC.

Linda Wells ALLURE

Stephen Teitelbaum, MD

Soledad O’Brien CNN/U.S. Sponsored by: