30916_Cover 6/11/01 4:22 pm Page 1

ISSUE 24 - WINTER 2001 £2.50

Festival Of Are You Ready For It ? All Tooled Up Development Going In The John Muir Trust

ACT COMPETITION SOUTH AMERICA AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVERS

BMC CHANGES • EXPEDITIONS • MOUNTAIN TRAVEL • MALLORY

FOREWORD... GLOBAL SUMMITS

(LEFT) The UIAA Summit Charter. (TOP) Roger Payne contemplating global summits.

At first sight it may seem strange to suggest the Cuillins of Skye as a possible peace park. However, Skye has been the scene of clan battles, and the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut was erected in memory of all those who fell during the sec- ond world war. Also, following the failure of the disputed sale of the Cuillins perhaps John MacLeod of MacLeod will be prepared to renounce any ownership claim. What a fantastic gesture that would be as a commitment to peace and freedom in the International Year of Mountains.

At the launch of the UIAA Summit Charter Robert Pelousek the deputy education minister for Austria was in the mood to make gestures. In an excellent speech in which he high- lighted the many benefits of climbing and he announced that Austria would like to see indoor climbing as a component of sports education for all 6 to 11 year olds. He amusingly pointed out that anyone who can learn o, what does it mean that the United Nations to climb and walk in mountains when they are young “…will has designated 2002 as the International Year have no problem moving around on the slippery flatlands Sof Mountains? Will mountains get bigger later in life!” during the year? Or perhaps gravity will be reduced to make them easier to climb? Anyway, isn’t the There is lots happening to celebrate the International Year UN busy solving global problems? of Mountains with various launch events at the Festival of Climbing on 7 to 9 December including the launch of the The response that the mountaineering federations have Access and Conservation Trust with Alan Michael MP, the taken to the International Year of Mountains (IYM2002) is Minister for Rural Affairs. You can keep up to date with the to agree a ‘Summit Charter’ which was adopted by the UIAA various events and initiatives via the BMC web site and by and launched at the recent General Assembly in Austria. visiting iym.org.uk (see Festival of Climbing programme for The charter is to remind everyone (but in particular Govern- more information) but high profile events include The Out- ments and international organisations) why climbing, hill doors Show at the NEC in Birmingham on 15 - 17 March walking and mountaineering are valuable and worthwhile 2002 (which will include the final of the British activities with many health, social, educational and eco- Championship) and the National Outdoor Welcome being nomic benefits. Other key themes in the charter include all co-ordinated by the Outdoor Industries Association (which the obvious issues concerning access, conservation, risks, will feature many activity opportunities next Spring). youth, equal opportunities, and so on. But one of the less obvious themes is urging commitments to repair war dam- Make sure everyone knows 2002 is the International Year age in mountain areas and the resolution of mountain bor- of Mountains, support and, or, take part in some of the der disputes through new agreements. events being organised, join the celebration at the UK launch of the Summit Charter at the Festival of Climbing and make In the past various people have put forward ideas about sure anyone you know in a position of influence knows why ‘peace parks’ in mountain areas where there have been bor- it is important to protect the freedom to enjoy climbing, hill der disputes. Veteran Indian mountaineer and author Harish walking and mountaineering and the opportunity to experi- Kapadia would like such a scheme for the Siachen Glacier in ence these activities. the where the armies of and Pakistan face each other in the long-standing Kashmir border dispute. Recently and closer to home a suggestion has been put for- ward for a peace park in the mountains of Albania. But what about making a commitment to such a concept here in the UK? There has been recent dramatic progress with the peace General Secretary process in Northern Ireland, so why not?

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30916_Summit24.p65 1 06/11/2001, 3:26 PM 30916_Summit24.p65 training opportunities formembers. and goodpracticeadviceprovides BMC publishesawiderangeofsafety their ownactionsandinvolvement. The accept theserisksandberesponsible for these activitiesshouldbeawareof and personal injuryordeath.Participants in eering areactivitieswithadanger of climbing, hillwalkingandmountain- Readers ofSummitareremindedthat RISK &RESPONSIBILITY submitted atthesender'srisk. publication, howevertheseare care istakenofmaterialssentfor [email protected]. Every at theaboveaddressor be sentto Alex Messenger Contributions forSummitshould work oftheBMCisto: joy theiractivities.Theprimary mountaineers andthefreedomtoen- terests ofclimbers,hillwalkersand Council. TheBMCpromotesthein- zine oftheBritishMountaineering is themembershipmaga- Summit accept responsibilityforinformationsupplied reasonable carewhenrespondingtoadverts. Neither theBMCnorGreenshiresPublishing PUBLISHED &PRINTEDBY e-mail: mem BMC, 177-179BurtonRoad, Paula Taylor &Lindsay Wilson W W W W W in adverts.Readersareadvisedtotake mation formembers. Provide youth andexcellence. ist programmesincluding Support and equipment. practice, facilities,training Promote mountain conservation. ments andpromotecliff Negotiate Jane Harris&LisaUndery Northants,NN168UN Greenshires Publishing Telford Way,Kettering elcome to Manchester M202BB Display Advertising Display Fax: 01536382501 Tel: 01536382500 www.thebmc.co.uk Tel: 01536382500 Fax: 01614454500 Tel: 01614454747 PUBLISHING 24 EDITORIAL Gill Wootton servicesandinfor- eventsandspecial- Classified and adviseongood [email protected] accessimprove- issue 24 of

2 FEATURES REGULARS CONTENTS 22 18 16 14 10 8 4 21 24 24 24 GivingBack 24 24 14 14 14 JohnMuirTrust 14 14 Roundup ofthisyear'strips. statutary restrictions. A lookatvoluntaryvs photo competition. Conservation Trust -plus The newAccess& photos too. Trust, andsomegreat The workoftheJohnMuir of iceaxes. The historyanddevlopment Expeditions 2001 As theCRoWFlies ACT Going In All Tooled Up All thelatestevents. area updates. sculpting, CRoWmapping, Woodhouse Damage, Staffs Conference, ActLaunch. Volunteer Leaders Festival ofClimbing, Access News News Briefing 08/11/2001, 12:17PM 31 31 31 Deep Trouble 31 31 44 42 40 Credit: JohnBeatty Cover: EskPikefromGreatEnd, 52 37 31 26 24 26 26 26 FestivalofClimbing 26 26 Area news, Mancomsummary. Arena What's newattheMLTB. MLTB changes willmeantoyou. What theBMCstructure All Change- Forum Mallory's life. adventure. South America,traveland Avalanche Tranceivers. coming andwhat'sgoingon. is near, find outmore -who's The biggesteventoftheyear local communities. giving somethingbackto Mountain TravelHandbook An excerpt from the Journey's Ending Travel Special Deep Trouble Climbing Festival of Giving Back LETTERS

CLOSE YOUR HUTS! to the car park, appeared. He sailed courage his outrageous behaviour. At It is really encouraging to see the BMC past without a word of apology. some point a camper, or even Monsieur trying to find ways of supporting the The incident left me angry but has not Bernard himself, may be seriously hurt. rural economy. But may I suggest that frightened me off. I’ll be back on the You’re on holiday; why put up with an the policy of helping to support and rock, leading, as soon as commitments unpleasant landlord? There are nicer develop club huts is reconsidered? The allow. But it could have been very dif- places to in any case. clubs might be better off spending the ferent. If I was of a more nervous dis- Dan Bailey, London cash used to develop remote proper- position I could have been put off for a ties on local accommodation instead. long time. If I’d actually fallen any dis- FMD THANKS There are many excellent bunkhouses tance, I may well have been having I am writing in response to a letter writ- scattered throughout the mountainous serious thoughts about whether this ten by Mr Alan Brown in Summit 23 re- areas of the British Isles that are cry- person had been negligent, in failing to garding access during the FMD crisis. I ing out for business. In this way the check whether there was anyone climb- can understand his anger about access clubs will be supporting the local ing directly below the point where he but I feel that I should support the BMC economy of the areas they gain so chucked his rope over the edge. Surely on its decision to consider farmers in much enjoyment from and ridding if we want to keep the US-style ‘litiga- the way it has. I am a climber and being themselves of maintenance bills for tion mentality’ out of climbing, it’s im- up here in Scotland I too was inconven- distant properties in their ownership. perative that we don’t put others at risk ienced by the closure of most of its coun- For anyone interested in finding out through sheer stupidity. tryside. However, I am also a Veterinary more try: www.hostel-scotland.co.uk John Ripley, Warwickshire student and so I understand the impact and www.highland-hostels.co.uk. that FMD has had, not only on the farm- Alan Kimber, Fort William CAMP RAGE ing industry throughout Europe, but on A recent visit to friends staying at Camp- the British economy as well. THE WHITE STUFF ing Les Chosalets, Argentiere, has been If closure of most of the countryside As the temperatures drop, with a bit of enough to persuade me never to con- had not occurred, the risk of spreading luck most of us will have a chance to sider staying there myself – the behav- FMD would have been greatly in- get out on the white stuff this winter. iour of the proprietor, a Monsieur creased. As a climber I consider this an Which brings me to the question: why Bernard, was too unusual to ignore. We inconvenient but fair measure; as a don’t more winter mountaineers use arrived by car from for a quiet Veterinary student I consider it essen- avalanche transceivers? I work as a ski barbecue, but just after 10.30pm we tial. I can understand the hardship in- professional in the French , and discovered that front gate was locked, curred by those working in the outdoors any time I go out to play, on goes the trapping our car. We were reluctant to this year and some of the actions taken transceiver (along with shovel and walk all the way back to Chamonix, and by the Government must have seemed probe in the pack), and more impor- though our friends warned us that he a little strange to everyone to begin with. tantly I make sure whoever I’m with was renowned for being bad tempered But had FMD been allowed to spread has the same kit. It’s just second na- we set out to find Monsieur Bernard’s nationwide, which it surely would have ture now - why hasn’t this caught on in house round the corner, reasoning that done had people not been so patient the plank-less winter sports? it was still fairly early. How angry could and had not stayed away, then these Get out there, let rip, drop big cliffs, he be? Unexpectedly disgruntled, it hardships would have been endured for crank hard and steep, go fast and take turned out; before I got halfway through many more years to come. Therefore, I chances, but ask yourself: Is my life a polite request for our car to be let out think we should be thanking the BMC really not worth £200? (in French!) he literally exploded in my for taking such a responsible stance Simon Christy, Scotland face, throwing two of us down several and advising its members to remain steps and launching into an abusive ti- patient. As well as protecting farmers - Thanks Simon, spookily enough we've rade. Slightly confused, we left him to it. and the economy, the BMC is protect- got an article on tranceivers on p. 31. Back at Les Chosalets we’d just de- ing our interests as mountaineers by cided to try hitching when Monsieur ensuring that these closures are in ROPE BELOW Bernard stormed up, still ranting, and place for a minimum amount of time. now armed with a metal bar. He Mr Brown must surely agree that a six Thanks for an interesting and thought- grabbed me by the neck and gave me months closure is better than five or six provoking article on Risk, Freedom and a hefty shove. I offered no resistance years. the Law. I only hope it was read by the on account of the metal bar, which he Andrew Price, Glasgow idiot I came across at Avon Gorge’s looked like he might use until a fe- Main Area on September 16th. I was male friend intervened. Still toting the on my second-ever multi- lead at bar he then proceeded to yell at us the time, and as you can imagine, with WRITE A LETTER AND and to imply that we’d been causing a 200 ft of air below me, I was concen- WIN THIS BERGHAUS disturbance. Needless to say we scarp- trating pretty hard on making my moves EXTREM SAC! ered as soon as he’d opened the gate, and placing my protection. I was some- Come on, write in to Sum- leaving our unfortunate friends to pla- what surprised, therefore, when ap- mit, with any news, views, cate the madman as best they could. proximately 100 metres of coiled or comments on the is- By all accounts this isn’t an unusual climbing rope suddenly came sailing sue, and you could win Monsieur Bernard story. Though such over the lip of the cliff towards me. this great Berghaus behaviour might be acceptable from a Luckily I saw it coming, and was braced Extrem Climb 32l sac. sergeant in the Foreign Legion, it im- for the impact – it hit me on the head, This issue, the prize goes plies that the man is not best suited to hard enough even through my shiny to Dan Bailey - it'll come a job in the tourist industry, or indeed new helmet, then proceeded to snag in handy next time he anywhere he might mix with the gen- on my gear and finished tangled in my tries to hitch back to eral public. Though many British climb- rope. I got more gear in fast and man- Chamonix. Next issue...it ers habitually use Les Chosalets I aged to free the rogue rope before its could be you. would urge everyone to avoid it. To give owner, who’d decided to ab down him your business is to implicitly en- rather than take the easier walk back

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30916_Summit24.p65 3 06/11/2001, 3:28 PM NEWS Festival of Climbing - Volunteer Leader Conference The Volunteer Leader Conference – 7th Dec, NIA, Birmingham Safety, training and liability for programme and facility managers and volunteer leaders. Climbing, hill walking and on risk management for or- other outdoor activities give ganisations and volunteer young people a very healthy leaders will be reviewed; in and rewarding sporting chal- particular concerning climb- lenge. But how can we ing, hill walking and moun- manage the risks of partici- taineering. The conference includes keynote expert Salavat Rachmetov (RUS), pation when a visit to an in- speakers, specialist discus- Credit: Avery-Cunliffe door or simple countryside walk can end in sion workshops and practi- Tony Blair and George Band start their tragedy? Sport and youth cal skills workshops. BMC & Entre-Prisesexhibition tour. Credit: Charlie Hedley organisations have a duty of The conference is aimed care for the management of at senior post holders, pro- Festival of Climbing 7-9th their activities including the gramme and facility manag- safety of participants; and ers and volunteer leaders. programme and facility The conference coincides December @ the NIA managers and volunteer with the first day of the En- leaders need guidance and tre-Prises and BMC Festival The biggest event of the year is support to manage the risks of Climbing which includes getting closer. without losing the essential a programme of practical adventure and benefits of skills workshops for volun- The BMC & Entre-Prises Pass to the peaks of the those activities. Recent teer leaders plus many oth- Festival of Climbing, is be- Himalaya via everywhere trends towards litigation and ers. The conference and ing held at the National In- else in between. In addition criminal prosecution remind festival are a must for eve- door Arena, Birmingham, 7- we’ll have the best films from us of the need for care; but ryone involved in managing 9th December. This major the Kendal festival, a se- – if a serious accident oc- or delivering outdoor activ- event has something for lection of the best videos curs - will the man or woman ity programmes. everyone, whether you’re an around, and advice work- on the ‘Clapham Omnibus’ If you would like to attend, avid competition fan or a shops and training semi- think your activity is well contact the BMC office im- keen hill walker. On the com- nars. There’s also a greatly managed with adequate mediately for a booking petition side, there’s the expanded art and photo- safety procedures. form. And if your centre or World Bouldering Champi- graphic exhibition, featuring The conference will con- organisation would like to onships, the European work from all the best art- sider safety, the needs of display information highlight- Youth Cup, and the Interna- ists and photographers. young participants, volun- ing your work at the confer- tional Open – so it’s safe to Bring the kids along to teer support and training, ence please contact Graeme say that most of the world’s help create a “Freedom and liability. The latest views Alderson here at the office. best climbers will be turning Mural”, then wear them out up to try their hand. But on the five public “Have a that’s not all, there’s the Go” walls, or try your luck “Festival Village” – every in the public bouldering spare inch of the arena floor competition, the dyno chal- will be packed with retail lenge, and more. stands, from the likes of It's shaping up to be the Snow and Rock, and Out- best event so far – can you side. This is the place to afford to miss it? Call the pick up bargain gear; these ticket hotline on 0870 909 retailers do not want to take 4144 to reserve your places. anything home with them! If you’re planning to buy Turn to pages 26- anything this year, from wa- 28 for full details! terproofs to boots, har- Leaders be aware! Credit: Morning nesses to friends, make Weather & Conditions information: the easy way sure you do it here. But it’s not just competi- Free winter climbing and WTHR4 - The Met Office has Vodafone UK (8638) or BT tion and shopping action, walking condition reports on just launched new six-hour, Cellnet (2638). Within a once again we have a fan- the Northern Cairngorms are localised, text weather fore- few minutes you’ll receive a tastic line up of lectures, available straight to your casts sent direct to your six-hour weather forecast seminars, and films, this inbox. To subscribe, just mobile. Users can receive a summary, with hour-by-hour time taking place in two pur- send an email to weather forecast for a spe- detail, for the exact location pose built lecture theatres. [email protected], cific location, simply type in you requested. The service An eclectic mix of Britain’s and once the season gets WTHR4, then a space, fol- costs from just 25p a mes- leading activists will take you going, midweek reports will lowed by a UK postcode, or sage, and is just added onto from the boulders of the give you all the info. name, then send to your bill.

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30916_Summit24.p65 4 06/11/2001, 3:29 PM ce ACT Launch - Mallory Moment - Scout Death

A Moment for Mallory ACT to conserve When George Mallory and Sandy Irvine disappeared mountain freedom into the mist as they strug- The BMC and the Moun- gled towards (or away from) now on exclusive loan to taineering Councils of Scot- the summit of Everest in the Helly Hansen National land and Ireland are launch- 1924, the most enduring Mountaineering Exhibition. ing a new Access and Con- enigma in climbing history The most poignant item is servation Trust - ACT. The was born. The debate rages the fragment of rope found purpose of ACT is to provide on as to whether they had still tied around Mallory’s a focus for sustainable ac- the skill and equipment nec- waist. The end is frayed cess to cliffs, mountains and essary to summit the world’s where it snapped in the open countryside in order highest mountain and we disaster that ended their to: support rural access and may never know. If they did, lives. You are unlikely to conservation projects that port access volunteers. ACT then history would have to re- see these unique items on protect access and promote will be officially launched at write itself. The only certainty display in the UK again, so sustainability; educate and the BMC and Entre-Prises is that these two pioneering a visit to the Exhibition is a raise awareness and under- Festival of Climbing by the climbers lost their lives in pur- must. The Helly Hansen standing of nature conser- Rt Hon Alun Michael MP suit of a dream. Mallory’s National Mountaineering vation and environmental Minister of State (Rural Af- body was found in 1999 and Exhibition is based at good practice; research the fairs) - find out more about a selection of items from that Rheged, Penrith, Cumbria. benefits and impacts of this, and the ACT Art & Pho- find, including Mallory’s altim- Tel: 01768 868000. mountain recreation and tographic competition on eter, watch, goggles and one www.mountain- tourism, and train and sup- page 16. leather hobnailed boot, are exhibition.co.uk Congratulatory back-slapping all round! Wall News Not only is Rheged the largest John Shaw, is a keen climber. What’s white out- earth covered building in Eu- John works closely with the side and rocky in- rope, it has also just won the BMC as a volunteer and side, has 300 prestigious British Airways Tour- played a key role in setting routes, 10,000 ism for Tomorrow Award for the up the Mountain Training holds, 1,800 Built Environment, beating off Trust to run Plas y Brenin square metres of stiff competition from around several years ago. To com- climb and lives un- the globe. The National Moun- plete a hat-trick of Trusts derneath one of the taineering Exhibition is man- John is currently overseeing busiest road junc- aged by the Mountain Heritage the establishment of the joint tions in London? Trust. Establishing the Trust was mountaineering councils’ The answer is the a complex task and thanks go new charity the Access & dramatically re- to Bolton based accounting Conservation Trust. Con- vamped Westway firm Bentleys for their contri- stant evolution seems to be Sports Centre. The bution to the project. The job the norm for mountaineer- centre is beneath was made easier by the fact ing so watch out John, who the A40 Westway Part of the new Westway wall that partner and primary con- knows what you’ll be doing roundabout and tact for the BMC at Bentleys’, in 2002! construction of the walls is ric shell, roofed quite literally by Entre-Prises UK, with a by the Westway flyover itself mix of free-form and panel – and anyone driving around build, Westway is the biggest the roundabout will be able Scout Death Judgment British project Entre-Prises to see the centre and the outdoor climbs on Westway’s The case resulting from the have worked on. The climb- tain days’ (ML assessment original walls which have fatal accident to a ten year ing centre is housed within requires a minimum of 40). been moved alongside the old Scout on the East Ridge a unique steel-framed fab- And aside from the time new indoor centre. of Snowdon, 16th October he devoted to his troop, 1999, has just been con- Finlay had taken time off Student Seminar cluded. Scout Leader Peter work to attend a ML train- The annual BMC Student those attending came away Finlay was found not guilty of ing course. The judge ob- Seminar has just taken with increased personal the manslaughter of served that a national place at Plas y Brenin, and skills, and a good base of Jonathan Attwell after qualification was not cen- was attended by repre- knowledge to help defend Jonathan died in a fall from tral to this case but it did sentatives of nearly 50 Uni- themselves against any re- the East Ridge of Snowdon, provide a very useful refer- versity Clubs. The weekend strictive policies. Many which he was descending as ence point. It was clearly event again proved to be a thanks to Plas y Brenin, part of a group led by Finlay. recognised that Training was great success, being a mix- Cotswold Essential Outdoor, Peter Finlay had been a vol- not Assessment and that ture of personal skills en- and all the volunteers, with- unteer for the Scout Associa- Finlay, like any other can- hancement, and looking af- out whom this event tion since 1986 and had didate may or may not have ter other members of the wouldn’t be possible. If you been to Snowdonia and the absorbed the content of club. With increasing num- have any questions regard- Lake District several times. Al- this course. This case pro- bers of clubs coming under ing Student Clubs, do get in though the Judge described vides a valuable case study pressure from their Student touch with the Training him as an experienced hill for use on Training Board Unions, this event becomes Officer Anne Arran at the walker he later noted that courses. more valuable each year. All BMC office. Finlay had 10 ‘quality moun-

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ACCESS NEWS

the crag took a long time to grow and in the rock leaving the current surface is enjoyed by many. The fact that so fragile that grit comes off in your branches have been twisted and hand. As Dave Bishop (Staff’s area snapped and that a chain–saw has access rep) writes in ‘Visionaries or been taken to others is quite astound- vandals?’: ing and the mess has been left for all ‘there are ‘climbers’ out there who to enjoy - or more likely draw their own are members of the Wire-brush and conclusion from. The local council are Chisel Branch of the Outdoor Climbing proactive and encourage recreational Wall Constructors Guild’. use of the site. They are open to ideas, Unfortunately it would appear that and after a ‘delicate’ site visit are will- Dave’s words are true. Dave will open ing to spend £3,500 clearing up the the debate fully in the next issue of mess and properly removing some Summit where his article ‘Visionaries other trees that will create better con- or vandals?’ will feature, but in the ditions for climbing. Please do not jeop- meantime if you want to write in with ardise this good relationship, the coun- your views, or more importantly if you cil are getting bored with climbing van- see someone with a wire brush near dals and they are not the only ones. your favourite problem….it may be time to remind them of some of the ethics Climbing sites threatened behind our sport. Access to Craig-y-Longridge is currently under threat due to a change in owner- CRoW Act - Mapping ship and planned development of the The first Draft Maps of open country are site. The BMC is corresponding with the due to be published on 16 November. land agent for the new owner in an at- The maps will cover the South East of tempt to re-establish informal access England and an area covering the Peak for climbers to this great North West District and parts of Staffordshire, Lan- venue. In the Peak District the owner of cashire, Yorkshire and Cheshire. The Newstones: The scene of some recent Willersley Crag is attempting to ban Countryside Agency is staging a series rock vandalism. Credit: MacNae. climbing. The situation appears to have of ‘road show’ events in each region (13 arisen over some mis-information and in the South East and 16 in the North- Walking areas closed confusion. Local BMC access reps and ern area) to explain the mapping proc- ess and to allow the public to comment For many the Foot and Mouth crisis the Peak Area Chair are busy trying to of the Draft Maps - dates and venues that brought outdoor recreation to its regain access to this popular crag. will be shown on www.thebmc.co.uk. knees earlier in the year may thank- Draft maps will also be available for view- fully seem like a distant nightmare. Markfield Quarry ing in local authority offices, the BMC Some of you however must live in or A successful opening meeting was held office and on www.countryside.gov.uk/ regularly visit those areas which are still in the Midlands to discuss the potential access/mapping. The BMC reminds all seeing continued outbreaks, where the purchase of Markfield Quarry by the lo- climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers talk is of no access until sometime in cal council for use as a conservation and that the CRoW Act does not give a blan- 2002! Yes its true, the Brecon Bea- recreation site. The meeting was chaired ket right to roam over all areas of moun- cons, parts of Cumbria and North York- by Colin Knowles and attended by more tain, moor, heath and down land in Eng- shire are still seeing continued and than 30 people including representatives land and Wales. Whilst the majority of systematic FMD cases. Walking areas from the local council. The open meet- areas of interest to mountaineers have that had re-opened once have now re- ing set up a Markfield Quarry Coordina- existing access there are still pockets of closed. Recent re-closures include tion Group to negotiate and develop an mountain and moorland (in mid-Wales footpaths up Whernside and access to agreement with the council with regard and northern England, for example) Penyghent from Horton in Ribblesdale. to climbing access at Markfield. The which do not have ‘formal’ access ar- Information on footpath closures in group will report its progress to the Mid- rangements and where the new ‘right’ North Yorkshire can be found on lands Area committee. under the CRoW Act will only come into www.northyorks.gov.uk. For information force when the land has been mapped on the Brecon Beacons try and the is Act fully implemented. www.breconbeacons.org and for Cum- Sculpting in Staffordshire bria www.lake-district.gov.uk. The BMC No unfortunately this is not about a is still working to encourage responsi- new art workshop, but what most climb- Stanage Forum ble access openings in these areas. ers would call desecration of the envi- The main issues of contention for climb- ronment we love and in particular our ers have been parking and a potential Devastating damage climbing raw material rock. Those of ban on bouldering in the Cowperstone you who have recently spent a pleas- area. A site visit has now been arranged Some of you may have read OTE’s ant evening at Ramshaw or Newstones with English Nature to discuss the Letter of the Month for October. For may have noticed the suspicious bright bouldering issue, and a draft manage- those that didn’t the letter highlights orange patches which mark holds, ment plan has been sent to the Na- the selfish action of an individual or grooves and ledges that weren’t there tional Park Authority committee for com- individuals (yes, climbers) at last time you visited. Holds you could ment. Their comments will be taken into Woodhouse Scar in Halifax. OK so this previously only get a finger on are now consideration at the final forum in the may not be a wild big mountain experi- jugs, unprotected routes suddenly have new year - watch this space. ence crag environment, but the fact gear placements – what is going on? that it’s a piece of green on the edge The orange patches are scars where For the latest access info on of an urban setting makes it all the the surface of the grit has been re- more than 600 crags in more important to local residents and moved by harsh wire brushing, to the England and Wales - check out climbers. The oak woodland beneath extent that holds have been sculpted the Regional Access Database (RAD) on www.thebmc.co.uk 8 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24

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EQUIPMENT ALL TOOLED UP From to extreme ice, Stu Ingram takes a tour through the history of ice tools. ow many times have you watched a farmer striding Hacross the hills calling his dogs herding the sheep, meas- uring out the paces with his crook, or leaning on it whilst chatting to a companion or taking in the view? OK, not that many in these days of quad bike shepherding and intensive farming, but you’ve seen the image a thousand times. And it has more to do with ice tools than you might think.

The Early Days Many people will have heard of the alpenstock, a long wooden pole of around six feet fitted with a spike at the end, utilised by Alpine herdsmen for balance on the rough ground of the high pastures. What you may not know is that there was a commonly used British equivalent – the fell pole - and that the great WP Haskett-Smith’s groundbreaking ascent of Napes Needle (considered by many as the first “proper” rock climb in Britain) was nearly prevented by an epic tussle with his when it became firmly lodged in a crack! So, we mountaineers have the farming community to thank for much more than just access to some of their land – we borrowed from them a tool which formed the origins of one of the most important items of equipment at our disposal, one without which countless landmark climbs would have been impossible – the . Having made use of the shepherds’ alpenstock for “third- leg” stability on their early ascents of glaciers and snowfields, Alpine mountaineering pioneers now found that they needed something more from this adopted piece of equipment as they began to venture onto more technically demanding ter- rain. In the second half of the 19th century, somebody had the bright idea of sticking a sharpened blade (the pick) on the top of the alpenstock, opposed by a broader, flattened blade (the adze) on the other side – and thus invented the first true “ice-axe”. These modifications allowed the climber to use the pick dagger-like to give purchase on steep sec- tions, and the adze could chop steps in ice for the feet. A leap in climbing standards resulted, and this development was without doubt the most important in the history of ice

tools as the basic design remains unchanged to this day!

ayne

inter Meet '98. Credit: P Credit: '98. Meet inter International W International

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30916_Summit24.p65 10 06/11/2001, 3:45 PM Working it out Throughout this time mountaineering was rapidly gaining popularity, with pioneers like Whymper, Mummery and Lily Bristow making daring ascents of technically difficult peaks like the Matterhorn, Aig. Du Grepon and the Petit Dru. They rapidly realised that their axes (which were often still four or five feet in length) were impossibly unwieldy on very steep ice or constricted ground such as chimneys and fissures, and the next step forward was taken when climbers began carrying two tools - one standard long axe and one short- ened to around two feet – to cope with the more difficult climbing they were now capable of. In this way, what we now think of as two different categories of ice tool were born – the “walking” or mountaineering axe (long-shafted to facili- tate use for balance and chopping of steps) and the “tech- nical” or climbing axe (short-shafted to allow swinging over the head and use in confined spaces). Throughout the first half of the 20th Century, this system of shortened axes was embraced as the accepted practice for mountaineering and winter climbing, and a number of impressive and difficult climbs were made in the Alps and Mallory (left) and Norton greater ranges. Despite this, and a spate of activity by a climbed without oxygen, and small hard core of Scottish climbers from the 1930’s on- with basic axes to just below wards, there were no major technical or design advances 8230m on 21st May 1922. until after the Second World War. Credit: RGS / T. Howard Somerville. The first true “technical” tools Along with Yvon Choinard of the US, Scotland’s own Hamish picks to technical tools (meaning it was not necessary to MacInnes is most credited for producing the first technical buy separate walking and climbing axes) and carry out field ice tool designed purely for steep climbing with the innova- maintenance on their equipment. Manufacturers embraced tive drooped pick and short (~45cm) shaft of his famous this new technology with a brace of specific products - al- “Terrordactyl”. Until the 1970’s, axe picks had been straight pine, drooped, banana or tubular picks, hollow or scooped adzes, over-wide or delicately shaped hammerheads – giv- or curved with a radius the same as the arc that the head of One ot the Pen Trywn goats - looking a little worried. the axe made when swung at arms length (an alpine pick - ing climbers numerous options to tailor their tools according as in a modern walking axe). Picks of this style could only be to their specific end use. used to chop holds for the hands and feet, which were then Latest developments climbed in a long, laborious and horribly cold process! The Nowadays, there are a vast variety of designs on offer in a new drooped picks allowed the climber to place the tool wide range of materials to suit many different purposes. De- securely anywhere in the ice and pull directly down on it - velopment of tools used for walking and scrambling has been thus saving energy and time and making steeper, harder largely in the field of materials – they are stronger and lighter and longer climbs possible. An additional benefit was that than ever whilst retaining the basic “classic” shape that would the axes now penetrated and could be removed from the ice much more easily than the older designs when used in this overhead fashion. This breakthrough revolutionised the style of winter climb- ICE TOOLS: THE CUTTING EDGE ing then being practised in Scotland and around the world, · Curved, cranked or s-shaped shafts make and also brought about the birth of modern reaching around corners or ice pillars easier, give - the drooped pick was much better suited to techniques greater clearance for the climbers knuckles (ouch!!) such as hooking and torquing on rock. This is where the and allow a more efficient swing radius. retaining leash often employed on classic axes as a means of not losing the tool if it was dropped really came into it’s own. The leash now formed a major part of the system of · Thin, aggressively toothed picks for pure ice to attachment of the tool to the climbers’ hand, providing sig- penetrate better and reduce dinner plating of the nificant support and allowing a much more relaxed ice. “squeeze” grip on the shaft of the axe than would otherwise have been possible. · Thicker, stubbier, mixed picks and specially As a result of the significant technological advances in shaped hammerheads and adze blades designed made during and after World War Two, climbers now had to last longer when subjected to the abnormal significantly better materials available from which to fashion stresses and loading that hooking and torquing in their tools. This contributed further to the rise in climbing rock cracks causes. standards of the era by increasing the longevity of equip- ment, and reducing the number of breakages in use. Wooden · Computer modelled engineering and weighting axe shafts of hickory or ash were giving way to hollow steel of the axe head to provide the optimum swing and alloy (or aluminium) shafts, which were much lighter and penetration, and reduce the energy needed to place stronger, whilst the head units were now manufactured from the axe. a suitable steel alloy instead of heavy wrought iron! The advent of modular technical tools in the late 70’s with · Cutting edge materials like carbon fibre and interchangeable components did not make any real impact Kevlar take strength and weight reduction to new on the way ice tools looked or were used, but it did give a huge increase in versatility. Climbers could now discard and levels. replace a broken pick rather than a whole tool, fit alpine · Quick-release leashes to facilitate speed in placing protection in ice or rock. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24 1 1

30916_Summit24.p65 11 06/11/2001, 3:46 PM EQUIPMENT

LEASHLESS TOOLS

The development of extreme ice tools continues to march on with a large number of manufacturers being closely in- volved with competition climbing. The trend towards leashless climbing arrived hand in hand with the IWC’s de- cision to ban leashes from their competitions, resulting in the appearance of some very radical looking tools! More importantly a few leading climbers saw the scope for the application of this style of climbing outside the competition arena, given that the grip/handle of the modified leashless axes offered considerably more support than conventional axes. Following on from this some manufacturers have looked very closely at the possibilities of finger rests, guards, still be recognised by climbers of the 1870’s! However, tech- and handle shapes and profiles which can be incorporated nical tools now exist in many different shapes and forms, and into more conventional shaped ice tools. have a myriad of specific features designed for different types At the moment, leashless climbing is generally confined to of climbing, some of which are listed overleaf. the domain of competition climbing and a few highly com- Ski mountaineers can purchase featherweight axes for ul- petent individuals, with manufacturers producing a very few tra-light use, made entirely of lightweight aluminium and cutting edge tools for sponsored climbers. However, it would weighing as little as 300 grams. Hill walkers can buy spe- seem unlikely that it will remain so when the advantages it cially adapted picks to fit on walking poles for emergency presents to the modern mixed climber are examined. The use. And in one of the most recent developments, competi- obvious benefit is that the tools can be freely and quickly tors in recent competitions have disposed of swapped between hands, giving much increased versatility the leashes traditionally used on climbing tools, replacing in the way in which they can be used (just don’t drop them, them with radical shaft-grips and thumb bars to allow effi- that’s all!). In fact many of the moves on some modern cient use by the climber. mixed testpieces actually require this versatility and would So, we are currently experiencing another jump in ice/mixed be impossible with regular leashed axes! climbing standards as a direct result of the latest development - With thanks to Chris @ DMM. of the equipment used. Standards are being pushed every season and with ever-accelerating advances in materials tech- (TOP RIGHT) - The Emmitator, prototype extreme nology and the imagination of equipment designers and climb- leashless tool from DMM. Credit: DMM ers, the future is certainly looking bright, white, and spiky.

Who knows where things will go next? PEGLERS the mountain shop THE LARGEST RANGE OF ICE CLIMBING GEAR IN THE WORLD.....probably Call us on 01903 884684 Also Gear for Rock, Alpine, Big Walling, High Altitude & Expedition Climbing peglers.co.uk • Mail order • BMC discount 12 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24

30916_Summit24.p65 12 06/11/2001, 3:54 PM

The work of the GOING IN John Muir Trust n the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, Britain possesses telling him the world was waiting to hear him teach the les- Ia wild land resource unsurpassed in Europe. Yet even in sons he had learned, but he stayed in his mountains, work- this apparently unspoilt and natural landscape, the impact ing, studying and learning. His political and literary of a long human occupation can be seen, most notably in awakenings began after meeting Robert Underwood the loss of most of the great Caledonian Pines - Britain’s Johnson, editor of Century, one of the most prominent share of the northern forests that once encircled the globe. magazines in the country a hundred years ago. Muir wrote The process of degradation has accelerated in recent times, two long articles on Yosemite, advocating a National Park to with overgrazing and blanket forestry, tracks bulldozed onto surround what was then the state-run Yosemite Valley. fragile mountain summits, and hydro schemes drowning Johnson published the articles and lobbied energetically. beautiful glens. Positive action was called for in the face of Congress complied with this emotional and literary onslaught, this erosion and destruction, and one response has been creating the first Yosemite National Park. Another fruit of the formation of a Trust representing the values that John this budding friendship was the creation of the Sierra Club Muir pioneered worldwide. in 1892, with Muir as President, apostle, guide, and inspi- John Muir was a young man when he first visited Yosemite ration. The purpose of the Club was to preserve and make Valley in 1886, and spent his first summer there working as accessible the Sierra Nevada. Since then the Sierra Club a shepherd, before running a sawmill near the base of has been politically involved in environmental issues and Yosemite Falls. But all the time he was working, he was lobbyists for the preservation of all American wilderness studying nature, the great truths that he said were written in including native forests, fragile geological and bio-diverse “magnificent capitals” - the awesome stones of the Sierra habitats, from the highest mountains to seashores, swamps, Nevada. He became a guide for some of the most famous tundra and grasslands. of Yosemite’s visitors, including one of his idols, Ralph Waldo Muir’s legacy is as a visionary, an inspirational founding Emerson. Emerson tried to entice Muir away from Yosemite, father of conservation. Today the John Muir Trust is commit- ted to practical action to conserve Britain’s remaining wild places; for their own sake, for the wildlife that depends on them, for the benefit of the local communities, and for the enjoyment of future generations. The Trust has an integral approach to management, aiming to take account all as- pects of the landscape - ecological, historical, cultural and social, and to cooperate with the many groups and indi- viduals who have an interest in wild land. By concentrating on sufficiently large areas, whole hill ranges or watersheds can be retained or restored to their natural processes, and can provide the spiritual qualities which humans value so highly; freedom, tranquility and solitude.

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30916_Summit24.p65 14 07/11/2001, 8:06 AM “I only went out for a walk, and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found was really going in” - John Muir, Journal 1913 The Trust is international in its outlook, having close links with the Sierra Club, but its work lies in practical action within funicular railways, and veritable cities washing up against the . The first area in which the Trust be- sites that, in America, are maintained relatively unencum- came involved was the remote peninsula of Knoydart in the bered by development. Messner explained the difference in west highlands of Scotland, buying 3000 acres from the three words. He said, “You had Muir.” sea to the top of Ladhar Bheinn in 1987. Here it carried out a variety of environmental work, including regeneration of If you are interested in learning more about the the pine and oak woods. It is also a partner in the Knoydart John Muir Trust about its membership, activities or Foundation, which recently succeeded in buying a 17,000 award schemes, call 0131-554-0114 or visit acre core of the peninsula including the village area and its www.jmt.org mountain hinterland. The Trust also owns the greater part of the magnificently (CLOCKWISE) Just some of the great images in this year's rugged Cuillin range on Skye. The need to conserve sustain- John Muir Trust Yearbook. Strathspey forest - the most able communities alongside wild places is being increas- extensive surviving Caledonian Forest in Scotland: Mark ingly recognised worldwide, and the John Muir Trust has al- Hamblin. The Grey Wolf - canis lupus: John Beatty. Ben ways been an enthusiastic supporter of this view. The Trust Nevis summit - midwinter sunset: John Beatty. The manages its properties on Skye through local management rockrose - Helianthemum chamaecistus - whose flowers committees for each crofting community, much like the Trust’s fully open only in bright sunlight, Slugg Island, British Co- other crofting property, the spectacular coastal estate of lumbia: John Beatty. Mopane trees at dawn - Okavango Sandwood in NW Sutherland. Delata of Botswana: John Beatty. Pasque flower - Pulsa- Most recently, the Trust has bought two of Scotland’s most tilla vulgaris grows only occasionally in Britain: Mark popular areas, Schiehallion, and the Ben Nevis estate. Hamblin. Schiehallion due to its isolation and symmetrical shape was the site of 1774 experiment that first measured the mass of The Yearbook the Earth, while The Ben Nevis estate includes three 4000 The seventh edition of the foot peaks and the ‘Himalayan’ gorge of Glen Nevis. Their John Muir Trust’s Wild Nature popularity has caused erosion, but fortunately active and Yearbook is now available involved Trust members willingly participate in practical con- featuring contributions from servation work. With only a small professional staff, the Trust many of Britain’s highly ac- is crucially dependent on the enthusiasm and expertise of claimed nature and land- its 10,000 members. Volunteers carry out most of the vital scape photographers. To or- work including footpath repair, tree planting, seed collec- der a copy of the new John tion, and ecological or archeological surveys. Muir Trust Wild Nature Year- But perhaps the greatest tribute ever given to John Muir book 2002 write to: The John took place in a private conversation between two great con- Muir Trust, 41, Commercial temporary mountaineers. Galen Rowell once asked Street, Edinburgh EH6 6JD Rheinhold Messner why the greatest mountains and valleys enclosing a cheque for of the Alps are so highly developed, why they have hotels, £11.95 plus £1.50 postage.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24 1 5

30916_Summit24.p65 15 07/11/2001, 8:06 AM ACCESS ACT to conserve mountain freedom The BMC and the Mountaineering Councils of Scotland and Ireland are launching a new Access and Conservation Trust – ACT.

The purpose of ACT is to provide a focus for sustainable focus on a celebration of the natural environment and the access to cliffs, mountains and open countryside in order to: importance of our freedom to enjoy it. During the Festival of Climbing visitors will be invited to draw and write on the ACT Support rural access and conservation projects freedom mural, recording their vision of the natural environ- that protect access and promote sustainability. ment and its importance to personal freedom. The best con- Educate and raise awareness and understanding tributions to the mural will be announced on the last day of of conservation and responsible conduct issues. the festival and will form, along with entries to a concurrently Research the benefits and impacts of mountain running art and photography exhibition, the basis of a book recreation and tourism. ‘Freedom Tomorrow’. ‘Freedom Tomorrow’ will be published in Train and support access volunteers. the new year, bringing together the launch of ACT with the United Nations International Year of the Mountains 2002; to ACT is based on experience from the successful Access highlight the importance of sustainable use of our natural en- Fund of the BMC. However, ACT will be on a larger scale, vironment for ‘Freedom Tomorrow’. cover a broader geographical area and have charitable sta- Contributions to the ACT art and photography competition tus - enabling it to receive tax efficient donations. The broader will also be displayed at the Festival of Climbing alongside geographical coverage will allow money to be channelled exhibitions from famous landscape, mountain and climbing into the areas that are in most need of support, be they in artists and photographers including Shelly Hocknell and John England, Wales, Scotland or Ireland. With greater support Beatty. See below for details. and sponsorship ACT will be able to fund larger projects Finally, help support ACT by bringing along your old European increasing its effectiveness to ensure sustainable use and currency to the Festival of Climbing. With the Euro becoming conservation of our outdoor environment. legal tender in many European countries this January, this is a ACT will be officially launched to the public at the Entre- good opportunity to give your old currency to help ensure sus- prises and BMC Festival of Climbing. The launch of ACT will tainable access to the countryside for the future. THE ACT ART & PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION Celebrate the launch of ACT - Take part in the Access and Conservation Trust Art and Photography Competition and give yourself the opportunity to win gear and cash prizes and have your work published in the new book ‘Freedom Tomorrow’.

The theme for the book ‘Freedom Tomorrow’ is based on the importance of good practice and sustainable use of the environment to protect our freedom to enjoy the outdoors. Send in a photograph or piece of art that represents your vision and enjoyment of the natural environment in Eng- land, Wales, Scotland or Ireland and why it is worth con- serving for tomorrow. The competition has the following 4 categories: Photographic, Art, Junior photographic (16 or younger) and Junior art (16 or younger). Send your entries marked with your name and post code to ACT Art and Photography Competition at the BMC. The closing date for entries is 10 February 2002.

Rules of Entry Entry is open to all members of the BMC the MCofS and the MCI. Only one entry to each category of the competition per member. An entry to a category comprises of one photograph or piece of art, art can be up to A2 in size, photographs can be slides, prints, or digital images, but digital images must be entered on CD and accompanied by a print out. Entries must be posted to The BMC, Art and Photography Competition, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB – no email entries accepted. Only entries with a stamp addressed envelope will be returned. All entries (including slides) must be marked with your name and postcode. The BMC and ACT reserve the right to use entries in publications and on the www. Entrants to the junior competition must be 16 or under on the last day of entry. Every care will be taken with entries, but the BMC and ACT cannot accept liability for any loss or damage to entries. Any entries received after the closing date will not be accepted. The prizes are being finalised and will be announced as soon as possible. The editor’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. (RIGHT) Think you can do better - send it in! - Torres 16 del Paine, Credit: John Beatty BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24

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CONSERVATION

AS THE CROW FLIES As the CRoW Act takes shape and proposals for statutory access exclusions and restrictions on cliffs and mountains begin to emerge, Dave Turnbull assesses the benefits offered by the existing system of seasonal access restrictions and examines the positive contribution made by climbers and mountaineers to nature conservation projects over the years. he well-being of the cliff and moun gists arranged by the BMC in 1998, much scientific work remains to be Ttain environment and the wildlife it for example, CCW, English Nature, done, a recent document produced by supports has always been a fundamen- RSPB and other organisations present Government conservation advisors tal concern of climbers, hill walkers and concluded that ‘the current restrictions suggests that statutory restrictions/ex- mountaineers and the BMC has long system should be maintained clusions will be applied in areas of recognised the need to balance de- ...and...that there is no need for legis- mountain, moorland and cliffs used by mands for access with the protection lation...’. chough, peregrine and important of sensitive habitats and endangered The success of the existing system ground nesting birds. This would in- species. Climbers have a long history owes itself to two important factors: clude year round restrictions for of supporting nature conservation work - A sense of trust, understanding and chough and up to seven month long (see below) and since the early 1970s, goodwill between climbers and conser- restrictions for peregrine (current ar- the BMC has worked in partnership with vation managers: i.e. climbers accept rangements in the Lake District apply conservation bodies and countryside restrictions which are agreed by mu- for only four months). The BMC firmly managers all over England and Wales tual consent whilst conservation man- believes that the existing system of- to agreed literally 100s of seasonal agers agree to review restrictions on fers the most effective and efficient access restrictions to protect important an ongoing basis. means of protecting wild birds from species of cliff nesting birds; several - The co-operation of climbing guide- recreational disturbance and is follow- longer-term restrictions to protect rare book editors, outdoor shops, climbing ing the matter up with Government or endangered cliff flora have also been walls, web editors and the BMC in pub- conservation advisors. agreed. The resulting ‘system’ of site- licising information about agreed sea- Ultimately the question has to be specific restrictions has proved ex- sonal access arrangements. asked - if the current system works well tremely successful and has been widely The CRoW Act presents new chal- and is widely respected - why replace quoted as an example of good prac- lenges for those responsible for decid- it with a more restrictive, less flexible tice in managing access for a special- ing how best to manage access in ar- alternative? ist activity. At a meeting of ornitholo- eas of importance for wild birds. Whilst CLIMBERS AND MOUNTAINEERS: WORKING FOR WILDLIFE Peregrine ringing, North West England Bald Ibis conservation project, Morocco Since the early 1990s climbers have assisted the RSPB’s In 1993, six British climbers visited the Souss Massa Na- regional peregrine co-ordinator with ringing young peregrine tional Park, Morocco as part of a conservation project initi- at sites with difficult access in Yorkshire and Lancashire. ated by Birdlife International and the RSPB. The climbers Data built up over the years has been important in monitor- used rope access skills to access steep sea cliffs and cre- ing the recovery and distribution of the peregrine popula- ate new nest sites for an endangered colony of bald ibis. tion in the North West. Nesting ledges were raked out of soft rock bands and moni- Chough ringing, South Pembrokeshire tored in subsequent seasons. In 2000 British climbers fol- Climbers have worked with CCW and the PCNPA on an an- lowed up this work by fitting model birds onto other poten- nual basis since the early 1990s gathering information on tial nesting ledges to encourage more birds to nest. the dispersal behaviour of juvenile chough in Botanical surveys and habitat restoration. Pembrokeshire. Climbers have used rope access skills to Some recent partnership projects between climbers and retrieve young chicks from nest sites in overhanging cliffs conservationists include: rhododendron clearance, Lundy for colour ringing by CCW ornithologists. 1998 – BMC funded four climbers to assist a WWF project Raven rescues, Clwyd to improve the habitat of the Lundy Cabbage; BMC sup- In Clwyd, BMC representatives have assisted the RSPB ported volunteer climbers in carrying out a botanical survey with bird rescue work. On two occasions in recent years of cliffs at Vellan Head, Lizard peninsula for the National climbers abseiled down quarry faces to release raven young Trust; volunteer climbers assisted English Nature in 1997 entangled in bailer string. Both birds flew the nest site im- by restocking denuded and species poor ledges in Avon mediately and would almost certainly have perished with- Gorge with transplants from strong adjacent populations. out assistance.

(LEFT) Cairngorm Plateau. (RIGHT) Northcott Bay, 18 Devon. Credits: Alex Messenger BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24

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20www.schminke.ch BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24

30916_Summit24.p65 20 07/11/2001, 8:12 AM BRIEFING

the Ndedema Gorge. This is a great South African Offer! opportunity to sample some South Af- MLTB Workshops The Mountain Club of South Africa, rican hospitality, if you are interested Details and booking forms can be ob- KwaZulu-Natal Section has invited keen please write to ‘South Africa 2002’ at tained from the MLTB office (01690 and dedicated, or just plain adventur- the BMC office address, enclosing an 720314) or by visiting www.mltb.org. ous British rock climbers and hikers/ activity CV and personal profile. trekkers to visit the Drakensberg/ ML Holder Seminars (2 day) Ukuhlamba mountains and the varied Sat/Sun 24/25th November, PyB crags of KwaZulu-Natal province, the 2002 International Meet Sat/Sun 6/7th April, PyB “Kingdom of the Zulus”. These will be 5-11th May, Plas y Brenin SPA Holder Seminars official BMC/ KZN MCSA climbing and Sat 18th May, Thornbridge trekking meets, with the objective of fos- Next year's BMC International Meet will Assessor Training Workshops tering interest in climbing and forging new be at Plas y Brenin in sunny North Sat/Sun 17/18th November, PyB friendships, and the KZN section are Wales. This year's theme is ‘Breaking Thurs/Fri 16/17th May, PyB keen to point out that this is not meant Barriers’, part of the BMC’s Interna- Teaching & Coaching in the Mountains to be an elite visit but is aimed at ‘aver- tional Year of the Mountains pro- Sat/Sun 3/4th November, PyB age’ climbers who may have missed out gramme. Once again the BMC is on the Sat/Sun 16/17th March, PyB on previous opportunities. look out for meet hosts, and as the Disability Awareness Workshops Meet (3-11 May guests tend to be of all abilities you Mon 25th March, Undercover Rock 2002): The KwaZulu-Natal province, don’t have to be climbing super hard situated on the north-eastern sea- to come along on this great week. What board of South Africa, has an abun- we are really looking for is a good knowl- Calling Voluntary Leaders! dance of sun kissed rock, and routes edge of North Wales climbing and the The Voluntary Leader Conference is ranging from single to three pitch, with willingness to make our guests feel wel- taking place at the National Indoor th all grades up to UK 6b. The county’s come. After a good turn out on the last Arena, Birmingham, on the 7 Decem- highest range of mountains, the meet the BMC is particularly keen to ber, alongside the Festival of Climbing. Drakensberg will also be visited. see applications from female hosts. The conference is aimed at senior post Trekking (6-14 September 2002): With the ‘Breaking Barriers’ theme, holders, programme and facility man- The trekking meet will take place in the we will also be discussing barriers fac- agers and all volunteer leaders. This northern Drakensberg, comprising of a ing climbers with disabilities, and it essential event will consider safety, the 7 day trek, starting in the remote Mweni would be great to see some disabled needs of young participants, volunteer valley, then climbing up via a pass to climbers there as hosts. If you would support and training, and liability, fea- the Lesotho/South Africa border. The like to host at the event please write, turing keynote speakers and work- trek will then travel, along the spec- with a short description of yourself and shops. Contact the BMC for a booking tacular escarpment that divides the two your climbing background, to ‘2002 In- form now - Tel: 0161 445 4747, or countries before dropping down into ternational Meet’ at the BMC office. visit www.thebmc.co.uk. «I’d never choose the wrong brand.» Absolute Swiss Quality

Infinity Venus Extreme

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24www.mammut.ch 2 1

30916_Summit24.p65 21 07/11/2001, 8:13 AM Day 2, pitch 1 on Silence of the Kantega South Ridge. Credit: Mick Mick Fowler looking weathered Seracs, Tupilak. Credit: Al Powell Fowler on Kantega. Credit: Fowler Coll.

EXPEDITIONS Credit:2001 John Arran

It’s been another eventful year British ‘Baroness’ to get 5600m up Mera Norr in the Accept thefor responsibility. world mountaineering. If you want to Whilst Airlie Anderson and made Khumbu region of . the first ascent of this imposing and dangle aroundthose fine, of usbut staying don't blame in Britain over British Kun Lun Shan 2001 remote pillar by Venus Envy (E4/5 6a, others if it theall goes summer wrong! have grappled with Julian-Freeman Attwood was due back 600m). Matt Dickinson, Tom Briggs, FMD restrictions and the usual on the 18th October. weather, the Brits abroad are as Niall Grimes and Ian Hay were also in ever at the forefront of action putting up high standard mixed British Nampula Towers developments and exploration. aid and free new routes. Full topo (Mozambique) available from BMC office. Dave Turnbull and the hot youth team Many of this year’s supported expedi- British Broken Tooth of Bransby, Houlding and Robins got up tions have now returned, and reports Geoff Hornby & Dave Wallis were pre- to all sorts of fun in Mozambique, mainly on their exploits are starting to trickle vented from attempting the first ascent consisting of bushwhacking, “extreme” into the BMC office. In 2001 the BMC of the South East face of the Broken travelling and oh yes, a bit of climbing provided grants to a total of 38 expe- Tooth by heavy snow on the Coffee Gla- too. Look out for what is sure to be a ditions from an allocated fund of over cier, meaning that their air taxi could not stunning lecture at the Entre-Prises and £45,000, with the MEF providing a land! Rapid re-assessment resulted in BMC Festival of Climbing. further £30,000, thus allowing some strong attempts on alternative routes but British Pik Dankova unparalleled achievements and amaz- that pesky snow stopped these too. Despite heavy snow and regular storms ing adventures to take place: British Chakula adding to the serious nature of peaks Alaskan Fake Glacier 2001 No information received. in the Western Kokshaal-Too of First ascents of five peaks up to Kyrgyzstan, Paul Knott & Graham 1850m around Fake Glacier, in the British Darwin Range 2001 Holden managed to achieve the first Ruth Glacier region of Alaska. With ad- Simon Yates and Andy Parkin combined British ascent ofRESULTS Pik Molodezhnyi ditional first descents by plastic sledge, some wild sailing with the first ascent of (‘Youth Peak’ 5338m) by its NE Ridge. an unnamed peak off the Bové Glacier in it could be said that the expedition ful- British Solu Expedition 2001 filled its exploratory role! Tierra del Fuego - “Monte Ada” NE face. Check out the lecture at the Entre-Prises Dave Wilkinsom’s team was unsuc- Anglo New Zealand Raksha and BMC Festival of Climbing in Dec. cessful on its main objectives, but Urai 2001 made the first British ascent of Pik Currently away enjoying themselves. British Female Bolivia Cor- Molodezhnyi (5338m). dillera Real British Western Kokshaal Too Apex Bolivia 2001 An attempt at a new route on the North David Gerrard’s multi-national team ex- A large medical expedition conducted ridge of Chaerco stopped at 5630m plored two previously unvisited mountain useful research into the medical effects by, you guessed it, bad weather. But ranges, achieving several first ascents. of altitude in Bolivia. Results are avail- that didn’t prevent this all female team able for interested parties. cranking off a number of quality alpine Cathedral Mountains 2001 Arganglas 2001 and rock lines in the area. Brian Davison, Lindsay Griffin, Geoff Hornby and Dave Wallis completed a Sir ’s most recent foray British Kantega South Ridge achieved useful exploration plus the mammoth traverse of more than ten “It snowed every day!” There were big virgin peaks in this wild region of Alaska, first ascent of Argan Eiger & two other avalanches and seracs as well, and despite the best efforts of Dave’s peaks. Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden did well dodgy knee to stop them.

22 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24

30916_Summit24.p65 22 07/11/2001, 8:14 AM Cochamó Big Wall & Alpine British Greater Trango Lucy Regan’s team unfortunately had 2001 to abandon the big wall route due to Avalanching approach gullies and time, weather and manky A3+ rock, hard climbing on the Norwegian Pil- but they did complete a traverse of the lar of Great Trango limited Twid, Mount Trinidad horseshoe (AD+) in- Louise & Co to 5700m over 21 days cluding some unclimbed peaks. on the wall. A seven day storm (sat out in portaledges) put paid to any Cymru Bolivia Apolobamba summit attempt. They ain’t having Adam Jackson on Homebrew Hangover 2001 much luck with the weather this year. First British ascents in the Pupuya Mas- (E3) S. Greenland. Credit: Matt Heason sif, Cordillera Apolobamba were unfor- Quitaraju SW Face 2001 tunately impossible due to political un- The micro-expedition of Nick Bullock The ‘Totally Forakered’ rest in the region – but the team man- and Al Powell found a harder than ex- Expedition aged some useful GPS mapping in the pected new line (up to Scottish VII) up Ian Parnell and Kenton Cool were lucky Cordillera Real. the Central Buttress on the S face of enough to participate in the most awe- the beautiful Quitaraju, Cordillera some Alaskan season for years, climb- Eastern Buttress of Mount Blanca, Peru. ing new routes at the highest level in Hunter 2001 punishing non-stop raids. These routes Sail Greenland 2001 The successful first ascent of one of are some the hardest ever climbed in Andy White and his team sailed to the buttresses on the East side of this the range, and possibly worldwide Greenland and explored Sangmissoq renowned mountain - The Prey within this style of climbing: Kiss me Island, climbing 15 peaks, probably all (900m+ Alaskan 5, Scottish V) – went where the sun don’t shine (2600m, first ascents to Mal Bass and Paul Figg. ED2, Scottish VII) – Mini Moonflower, Greenland 2001 – Tilman in Scottish Cordillera Blanca Hunter (18 hrs), The Moonflower – re- a new Millennium (year 2) 2001 peat - (1200m, ED3, Scottish VII) – The Rev. Bob Shepton continued his Jason Currie and Guy Robertson seem Moonflower Buttress, Hunter (3 days), seabound odyssey and exploration to be one of the few expeditions that Extra-Terrestrial Brothers (2200m ED3, whilst the rest of us looked on jealously. actually had good weather whilst mak- Scottish VII) – Fathers & Sons Wall, ing a new 400m route on Santa Cruz Hunter (46 hrs). Greenland Winter Chico (5800m). Al Powell and team made the first as- BMC & MEF FUNDING cent of of Tupilak in the Siruanch Glacier 2001 Schweizerland mountains. Silence of the Diverted from their original objective of The BMC administers UK Sport fund- Seracs (900m, ED2) went in 26 hours Tirsuli West by objective danger, Colin ing for expedition grants. To meet the and involved technical mixed, rock and Knowles and his team instead made criteria for consideration for an award, aid sections. This is the first winter ex- the first ascent of the unclimbed teams must be attempting first ascents, pedition to climb at this high standard pk6160 to the North, and did some or first British ascents in remote moun- in Greenland. They also made the first invaluable exploration for those who tainous environments. The UK Sport ascent of the S Pillar of Rodebjerg via a may follow. excellence fund is an additional pot 1100m TD line and did a load of skiing from which awards are made to those SMoG in Greenland – down amazing couloirs. expeditions that are felt to be of global Mountaineering Group significance, often allowing the expe- Lakeland Quimsa Cruz 2001 The team led by Mark Lampard climbed dition to operate at a very high stand- Ascents of several possibly unclimbed pretty much everything in the ard, giving the best chance of success. peaks to around 5300m and shorter Nunatakker area and then some! Many rock routes (up to E2) in the Quimsa first ascents with a strong exploration Applications for 2002 should be made Cruz area, as well as some ironing out aspect for future reference. to the Foundation (MEF), of the maps of the area by this small South Greenland 2001 which also provides substantial grant Cumbrian team led by Paul Platt. Matt Heason and a strong UK rock team opportunities to exploratory expeditions Lanchester Greenland 2001 climbed 16 new routes up to E5 and from New Zealand. Contact Bill Ruthven, Gowrie, Cardwell Close, Warton, Pres- Exploration of the unvisited Lindbergh 1000m on the granite faces of Prins ton PR4 1SH or visit www.mef.org.uk for Mountains (c3000m), resulted in 25 Christian Sund, South Greenland. further details and application forms. (count ‘em) first ascents and some ex- Greenland is still the place to be. The closing date for 2002 expeditions ploratory skiing. Tagne 2001 is 31 December 2001. Lobuche/Ama Dablam 2001 In mostly good Jules Cartwright and team have set weather, this their sights high and gnarly in Nepal young team vis- and will be returning in December. iting the Lahaul/ Spoti region Llanberis 2001 Patagonia achieved the This alpine-style attempt on Cerro Torre first ascent of is not actually going till December. their main ob- North Wales Torres del Paine jective, Tagne 2001 (6111m) via its Twid Turner and Louise Thomas fought S Ridge and 350 metres up the Central Tower in typi- also climbed a cal Patagonian weather before giving peak referred to up, but sneaked a new route on the as Sagar Mascara. “No regret, only relief” said (6030m) via its Louise on leaving the park in one piece. E Ridge.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24 2 3

30916_Summit24.p65 23 07/11/2001, 11:50 AM TRAVEL Giving back Responsible mountain tourism. An excerpt from the new Mountain Traveller's Handbook by Paul Deegan, published by the BMC.

or all its negative effects, mountain sell handicrafts and cook traditional Ftourism has the potential to bring dishes for visitors. This has generated money to impoverished areas. Used a much-needed source of supplemen- wisely, this cash can improve things like tary income for their families. It has education, medical facilities, housing also helped to change local people¹s and water supplies for local people. initial hostility towards the forest re- In 1960, Sir Edmund Hillary received serve which was caused by the limita- a petition from the people of the Ever- tions placed upon logging activities. est region in Nepal. It read, “Our chil- Many young people in Dadia now feel dren have eyes but cannot see, they that they have a future in the area and have ears but cannot hear, can you are electing to stay rather than head Will today's mountain children leave help us to build a school in our vil- for work in the cities. for the cities? Credit: Deegan lage?” Over 40 years later and Sir Increasingly, mountain tourism is be- Edmund Hillary's Himalayan Trust has ing viewed as one way and sometimes Do you really want to go? built 28 schools, two hospitals and 15 the only way to prevent migration from Uluru, otherwise known as Ayers Rock, health posts. Young people have been rural areas. If you so wish, every is one of the most famous mountains awarded educational scholarships, drachma, pound, rupee, peso and dol- in the world. Climbing to its summit is clean water systems have been in- lar that you spend can be used as a for many visitors the highlight of their stalled and forestry work has been un- vote. You can choose to travel with a stay in Australia. Yet Uluru is a sacred dertaken. Support for the region's local or foreign trekking operator that mountain to the Anangu people. Be- monasteries has helped to strengthen invests in training for local people to cause of the many injuries and deaths the religious, cultural and community become guides. You can stay in a lodge that occur to climbers who ascend the life of the local population. Together built and run by local people. You can rock, park wardens have fixed a hand- with a committee of Sherpas, Sir even drink locally-brewed beer and en- rail to the summit, even though the Edmund still tours the area every year joy local food, rather than eating some- route of ascent and the summit are to direct funding to the most needy thing that looks and tastes like some- regarded by the Anangu as places projects. Local people are employed thing you could buy at home. By voting where their secret knowledge is dis- to carry out any work that is required. with your wallet, you can do much to cussed or stored. Now a tourist centre Whilst trekkers and mountaineers improve the lives of people in the re- has been established to explain to visi- who head into the mountains for the gions that you visit. tors the cultural significance of Uluru. first time often think only about the People are requested not to make the famous peaks that they will see, it is Buying handicrafts ascent. This approach seems to be not unusual for the local people who In 1993, a non-governmental organi- working; whilst the volume of visitors they meet to leave a stronger imprint sation called "Handmade in America" remains unchanged, the number of in their memories. Like Sir Edmund, was founded by local citizens. Its aim recorded ascents is declining. many climbers and trekkers feel a com- was to explore ways in which the Ap- As an increasing number of people pulsion to assist these mountain peo- palachian region could use its reputa- head for the mountain regions of the ple, many of whom remain cheerful and tion as a home for some of the USA's world, some tourists are beginning to indefatigable despite little or no edu- longest-established craft organisations, wonder whether they should avoid cer- cation, sanitation or medical facilities. to increase sales of artefacts directly tain sacred places altogether. For ex- The Himalayan Trust is one of the bet- to tourists. With guidance from local citi- ample, pilgrims outnumber tourists in ter known mountain charities. It is a shin- zens, Handmade produced a driver's Gangotri, in the Indian Himalaya, by ing example of how indigenous guidebook to the Blue Ridge range of 100-1: if relatively wealthy visitors populations can improve their situation mountains. The guidebook had two continue to visit then more infrastruc- whilst retaining ancient customs and tra- aims: to direct people off the highway ture is likely to be built. This in turn will ditions. Other aid organisations have simi- and towards local craft centres and to further erode what remains of these lar goals in different mountain regions steer visitors away from sacred com- important religious sites. around the world; making a financial munity places in order to help retain donation to such a charity is one way the cultural integrity of the region. Over If you're planning a trek that the visitor returning from the moun- 20,000 copies of the first edition were or expedition, get hold tains can make a difference. With a lit- sold, and average sales have in- of the new Mountain tle forethought, it may prove possible to creased by 30% since publication. Traveller's Handbook. make additional positive contributions as It is always worth asking where attrac- This full colour, pocket the following examples illustrate. tive souvenirs come from. Are they pro- size book spills the duced in the local area? Buying locally- beans on every aspect Use locally-run services made handicrafts for a fair price directly of the perfect trip. From In 1994 a women's co-operative was from the people who made them rather essential equipment established in the Greek village of than from someone at the end of a tips and medical advice Dadia, which lies within the boundary chain that began in a factory in the to mountain photograhy, of the Dadia Forest Reserve in the lowlands or a different country is just it's all here. Priced just Rhodope Mountains. The women give one more way to support people who £13, its one thing you can't afford illustrated talks, guide tours, provide are keeping mountain traditions alive. to leave behind! Phone 0161 445 environmentalThe distinctive information,Indian Head, make Bridestones and 4747 to order now, visit www.thebmc.co.uk, or look out for it in all good shops. 24

30916_Summit24.p65 24 07/11/2001, 8:16 AM

THE BEST CLIMBERS + LE WORLD BOULDERING CHAMPIONSHIPS :: EUROPEAN YOUTH CUP :: INTERNATIONAL MASTERS :: PUBLIC BOULDERING :: DYNO CHALLENGE THE ENTRE-PRISES & BMC FESTIVAL OF 7-9TH DEC, NIA, BIRMINGHAM

The biggest and best celebration of climbing, mountaineering and adventure is about to take place. If you want the best of everything, then sit back, and let Graeme Alderson introduce you to the event of the year.

"Most vistors will be smiling after snapping up their first bargain in the retail village"

(TOP) Rachmetov will be there - will you? Credit: Avery. (LEFT) Jon Bracey, find out what happened to Jon and Al Powell in the Greenland winter. Credit: Powell (ABOVE) Have a go!(BELOW) Bargain madness!

TICKET HOTLINE: 0870 909 4144

SNOW + ROCK :: OUTSIDE :: MOUNTAIN SHACK :: COTSWOLD OUTRAGEOUS BARGAINS +

30916_Summit24.p65 26 07/11/2001, 8:30 AM + LEADING ADVENTURERS LEO HOULDING :: ALAN HINKES :: NIALL GRIMES :: JAMIE ANDREWS :: ANDY KIRKPATRICK :: IAN PARNELL :: DOUG SCOTT :: JERRY GORE :: AL POWELL :: AIRLIE ANDERSON :: JOHN DUNNE :: MEF SEVEN CONTINENTS OF CLIMBING any years ago the BMC hit upon the idea of having a Mbig climbing, hill walking and mountaineering extrava- ganza where everyone could come along and meet their mates, buy a bit of kit, watch some lectures and attend some seminars. The BMC decided that the extravaganza should be named after the blue cat in the Magic Rounda- bout, and the Buxton Festival was born. Some other bright sparks in the BMC also thought that they needed to get involved with the emerging competition scene and hosted the world’s first World Cup, the Leeds Grand Prix in 1989. For a while, all was tickety boo. The Enter the public bouldering challenge, and win great prizes. World Cup events moved to the NIA in Birming- ham and progressed nicely. But then audiences other junior finalist contenders, so the possibility of British began to diminish. The Buxton conference finally victories is a realistic one. We also thought that the senior died a death in 1993 when by coincidence there ‘lead’ climbers might feel a bit left out, so hey presto the Snow was also a bouldering competition organised. Co- + Rock International Masters was developed. The Masters is incidence or a taste of the future, who knows? also a brilliant way of guaranteeing Brits in the final. This is due Realising that the World Cups could not survive to the invite only system, and competition rules. Everybody in purely as a competitive event, missing the cama- this event has to do both routes and an average is taken to raderie and drinking that was all part and parcel of find the qualification rankings. Then everyone qualifies for the the Buxton scene, it was decided in 1997 to try final!, not that that would actually have proven a problem as and start combining the two events. The result Chris Cubitt has been playing a blinder this year on the circuit, was Climb’97, a World Cup, some lectures and a last time finishing equal to a certain Mr Legrand. That Steve little bit of retail therapy. In ’99 things started to McClure bloke is by all accounts fairly strong and handy on the get ambitious. The UIAA-ICC Entre-Prises World competition scene as well. Championships, a broader range of retail therapy So who will actually be climbing in these various events. and a full lecture and seminar programme, includ- Well the likes of Malcolm, Claire, Gaz Parry (recent World ing the likes of Sir Chris Bonnington chairing lec- Champs finalist) and Naomi Guy who will all be representing tures for the Mt Everest Foundation, Alex Huber, Blighty in the Bouldering event. And they are all up against Alan Hinkes and Jerry Gore. the current World Champs Mauro Calibani (ITA) and Myriam Motteau (FRA). The current World Cup Champions Pedro The Competitions Pons (ESP, remember him from FIBO’94) and Sandrinne Levet We started planning Climb’01 about a day after (FRA) will also be competing. Other names will include the Climb’99 had finished, well to be honest after the likes of Elena Choumilova (RUS), Natalia Perlova (UKR), Christmas holidays but you get the picture. Right, Daniel Andrada (ESP), all names that have competed at the what should we do for the competition bits? The various Foundry International comps over the years. You won’t key was doing something where we stood a chance have heard of the youths, I’ve not heard of many of them but of getting Brits into the finals, right well, we are the standard will be incredibly high – the current senior World good at bouldering, hence the birth of the UIAA- Champion is someone called Jerome Pouvreau who is still ICC Snow + Rock World Bouldering Cup. We’ve actually a junior. The Masters event, held on two routes with got a couple of boulderers who we know make the the aggregate score system determining the winner, has seen . There’s Claire Murphy who was a fantastic invitations sent out to some of the biggest names in the third in the Greek round of the 2000 World Cup climbing world; Francois Legrand and Steve McClure are look- and has beaten all of the main players on various ing forward to finding out who's the best. occasions. And then there’s Malcolm. Malcolm Smith is capable of beating anyone; after all he is Come and Have a Go! the world’s strongest man. The competition elements would not have been possible So Brits in the final was looking good. But why without the support of Entre-prises, who year after year stop at just one international event, no let’s have provide awe-inspiring surfaces. And, once again they have a leading event as well. Okay we’ve got some provided all of the climbing surfaces for the whole event. talented juniors with world class potential so let’s This year you’ll even get a chance to try some of them out. have a round of the UIAA-ICC European Youth Not only are we once more having the ‘Come and Try It’ Cup. Since that decision Adam Dewhurst and walls, where newcomers to the sport can get their first taste Jemma Powell have both achieved podium places of climbing. But the Sunday also sees public competitions in other rounds of the EYC, and we’ve had a few on the World Cup boulders. We’ll leave up a lot of the

SHELLY HOCKNELL :: GINGER CAIN :: DAVE SIMMONITE :: CARL RYAN :: JOHN BEATTY :: GORDON STAINFORTH :: FREEDOM MURAL :: AND MUCH MORE NS + TALENTED ARTISTS

30916_Summit24.p65 27 07/11/2001, 8:30 AM TECHNICAL... FUN FOR EVERYONE

problems from the World Cup but also add stacks more in- ing brands that Snow + Rock, cluding special junior problems so don’t forget your boots Mountain Shack and Outside are Listen to the lecture, check out the and chalk bag (please note that these boulders will be steep going to try and flog to you for art, find out how to go there, and so problems will be starting at about Eng. 5a). Also what ludicrously low prices. then buy the kit! would the art of bouldering be without a bit of dynoing. Well, we’ve got the first ever-international dyno competition to be Art & Photography held in the UK. If you reckon that you can dyno 2.6m on a Exhibition 20° overhanging board, or just have a bit of fun flinging your- Last time we thought that a little self around then this is the event for you (by the way the bit of a photography exhibition dyno is on a 45° diagonal and 2.6m is the unofficial world would be a good idea, so we in- record set by some lanky Canadian called Dan). And finally, if vited Ian Smith to display his por- you fancy yourself as a bit of a strong man/woman you could trait collection and very nice it was try out the ‘Pull-Up’ challenge, as many pull-ups in 60 sec- too. But going one better this time onds as you can manage, I reckon that anything above 10 is round, we’ve arranged a huge Art a good effort, but then I never was any good at training. and Photographic exhibition. Fill- ing the bar, and stretching the Inspiring Lectures whole width of the NIA balcony, it The non-competitive bits have this year been collectively called will feature displays from most of Outdoor Live. The scope and range of this side of the Festival this country’s leading climbing and has developed far beyond our wildest ideas at that initial mountaineering artists - Shelly planning stage in ‘99. The lecture and seminar programme Hocknell, Ginger Cain, David associated with the festival is set to be the biggest audio- Simmonite, and Gordon visual extravaganza of the 2001 outdoor lecture circuit, bar Stainforth, are just some of the big names lined up. none. A widespread mix of Britain’s leading activists will take you from the boulders of the Pass to the peaks of the ACT Competition and Launch Himalaya via as many other places in between as possible. This will all be linked to the launch of the mountaineering In addition we’ll have a selection of the best films from the councils' new Access and Conservation Trust (ACT). ACT is Kendal festival, and some of the coolest videos around. already attracting significant sums from the outdoor trade Already in the line-up top mountaineer Alan Hinkes is sure for its work in protecting our freedom to do our things in to pack ’em in on Friday evening by telling of his dream to the outdoors in a responsible and sustainable manner. climb all the eight-thousand metre peaks , and Niall Grimes There will be plenty of opportunities to contribute towards will delight us (!) with bouldering anecdotes and wacky tales ACT, with special posters and calendars for sale. And to afterwards. Jamie Andrew will also tell his inspirational story mark the introduction of the Euro we are asking you to on Saturday morning, and Jo George takes a light-hearted bring all of your soon to be useless European currency look at Scottish climbing. Whilst in the afternoon, Andy along and donate it to ACT. Kirkpatrick and Ian Parnell delve deep into the outrageous world of extreme alpine style climbing on some of the worlds’ Whymper's Ice Axe! toughest faces. The venerable Doug Scott will be sharing his And just in case you haven’t had the chance to toddle off latest exploits in as a part of a series of lectures from the to the Lakes to catch the Helly Hansen National Mountain- Mount Everest Foundation, which will also include Jerry Gore eering Exhibition at Reghed, then you’re in luck. They are and Al Powell. And don’t forget to check out what Dave Turnbull actually bringing a bit of it down to the Festival to give you and Leo Houlding have been up to in Mozambique (Saturday a taster. Where else could you see the best boulderers in night), and catch a bit of drumming from the lively Alistair the world, and then check out Whymper’s ice axe? Lee. The final Sunday finds some of the biggest names on the scene in action; Leo Houlding, Andy Kirkpatrick, Alan Back in ’99 we asked if you were ready for Climb’99, Hinkes, Airlie Anderson, Jerry Gore and John Dunne will all be this year we’re not asking if you're ready - we just giving lectures, which are not to be missed. Your only problem hope you can cope with so much happening over will be fitting it all in! one weekend? It's going to blow all previous events off the map - miss it and miss out. Practical Advice And for those wanting practical advice, then welcome to the seminar programme. If you’re gearing up for the winter, check out the winter skills workshops, sponsored by Plas y Brenin, Berghaus and Scarpa. Try out all the latest kit, and get the best advice around. And don’t forget to enter the prize draw. One lucky winner will be winning a full winter outfit. From boots to hat, to ice axes, and a course at Plas y Brenin to learn how to use it all. Nutrition, Mountain Medi- cine, Mountain Photography, Travel, and Performance Climb- ing will also be covered – pick up a lifetime's worth of tips and tricks in one afternoon. Lasting throughout the festival and hosted in both the pur- pose built tiered Berghaus lecture theatre behind the compe- tition-climbing wall, and in the NIA Olympia suite, these lec- tures and seminars offer a perfect way to relax and enjoy some spectacular tales.

Shopping Bargains Shop until you drop. The one silver lining that has come out of this year’s Foot and Mouth disaster, are the warehouses full of unsold stock of premier mountaineering and hill walk-

28 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24

30916_Summit24.p65 28 07/11/2001, 8:37 AM

The Alphabet

deep trouble

All images Courtesy of Fridge An introduction to the essential backcountry winter equipment Productions, except skier, Courtesy that you hope you’ll never need; by Tim Roebuck, TR Agencies. of Warren Smith Ski Academy.

s the nights lengthen and snow It is tempting to think that only ski- you’re not carrying a sender unit, the begins to fall, it’s time for those mountaineers or climbers are at risk, but nearest one (if you’re lucky) will be at Adreams of a white Christmas to with increasing numbers of the Guide HQ. This will usually take far become reality. For some a season in snowboarders and snowshoers search- longer than fifteen minutes to bring to the Alps, for others a few sneaky week- ing for off-piste excitement and fresh the site of any accident, long after the end breaks. But this time will you be powder, more and more people are rescue should have finished. ready for the unexpected? coming into contact with avalanche ter- For most people the preparation for a rain each year. Sometimes there are Shovel winter adventure just involves dusting warning signs, urging people to carry the A transceiver is only part of the solu- off the board, ferreting skis out of the correct equipment, but what exactly tion. A victim cannot be dug out with attic, finding a complete set of gloves, should you take? skis, boards or . A shovel is and wondering where that other cram- essential for quick, efficient excavation. pon has gone in the last 12 months. Transceiver Ensure it is lightweight, compact, pref- But with increasing numbers of skiers, First and foremost, an avalanche erably with an unbreakable blade. And boarders, and backcountry explorers transceiver. This is a personal safety looking on the brighter side, it’s also heading further from the beaten piste, beacon that once switched on continu- great for building jumps. perhaps it’s time that you took these ously emits a signal. If buried, other preparations a step further, giving you transceivers can be used to home in Avalanche probe and your friends the best chance of liv- on this signal, quickly locating the vic- Avalanche probes can be very useful. ing past the end of the winter. tim. Several brands are available, but A probe consists of a number of tubes Accidents and deaths occur with look for a large signal range and virtu- connected by a non-elasticated fixing alarming regularity season after sea- ally foolproof operation in a stressful system. They are designed to be eas- son, and there were over 60 snowsport situation. The better units feature in- ily assembled, lightweight, and swiftly related deaths in the Chamonix Valley stant notification of multiple burials, extracted from avalanche debris. last year. Some were human error; col- and after an initial sweep literally point Tent poles, although similar are not lisions with trees, other people, or tak- the way to the victim. There are two ideal – they are far more prone to snag- ing that big air quest too far. But every types currently on the market; digital ging and damage. Use probes in pro- year, burial by avalanche claims a and analogue. Don’t be misled by the longed searches for victims without steady stream of lives. terms, the difference is purely in the transceivers, or locating equipment lost Slopes will avalanche - that’s a fact type of signal output. in powder or . of life. Obviously having a good level Digital transceivers emit a 90m x 70 of avalanche awareness, taking note x 30m 3D signal and have a 40-45m of forecasts, warnings, and signs is the range, whereas analogue models have key to a safer winter. But sometimes, a greater range of 80m, giving out a especially when heading beyond re- 160m x 90 x 90m 3D signal the shape sorts or to more exotic locations, even of a rugby ball. The units are best worn the most experienced can get into close to the body with an integral three harms way. And only by carrying and point harness, preventing detachment knowing how to use the correct moun- at all times and weigh in the region of tain safety equipment will you have a 250g. Batteries are usually AA or AAA, chance of both surviving an avalanche and will last up to 300 hours. Every burial or locating a victim quickly. transceiver operates on a 457kHz fre- When buried in an avalanche a victim quency, and are compatible with all without any other injury, generally has a current and previous models. 90% chance of survival if rescued within the first fifteen minutes. With the ef- Avalanche reflector fects of cold, anxiety, and oxy- Some jackets and other pieces of gen starvation, this survival rate halves equipment have an “avalanche reflec- for every additional five minutes. After tor” sewn in. Be warned this is for a meagre thirty minutes burial, the equipment location purposes only; it chances of survival are generally only needs a sender unit to be found. If 10%. Time is of the essence.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24 3 1

30916_Summit24.p65 31 08/11/2001, 12:22 PM ing around £250. Just how much is Books your, and your companions’ life worth? A Chance in a Million, Bob Barton & And if you’re not a regular winter ex- Blyth Wright, SMC. plorer, remember that it’s also possi- Handbook of Climbing, Allen Fyffe & ble to rent equipment in the more popu- Iain Peter, BMC. lar areas. Mountaincraft and Leadership, Eric Langmuir, MLTB & SCC. Further information Avalanche Safety for skiers and Carrying the correct equipment is just climbers, Daffern, Diadem books. Radios & Mobile Phones part of the jigsaw. Make sure you have All these books are available in the good avalanche knowledge – preven- BMC online shop Mobile phones are in worldwide usage, tion is always better than the cure! It is and small walkie-talkies are becoming also a matter of common sense that a Contacts popular in resorts, but a word of cau- first aid kit should be carried by at least Plas y Brenin tion should be given here. All electronic one member of each party. If in doubt, 01690 720214 equipment and installations give out consider a training course. Both Plas y electronic signals whilst working. In the www.pyb.co.uk Brenin and Glenmore Lodge run short Glenmore Lodge case of mobile phones, the signal in- Avalanche Awareness courses, or enlist 01479 861256 terferes with the transceiver signal, with the help of a Mountain Guide for a day. potentially disastrous consequences. www.glenmorelodge.org.uk British Mountain Guides It’s very unlikely you’ll be able to use your phone whilst buried, so turn it off " Of course we all hope never to www.bmg.org.uk TR Agencies – it could save your life. However the have to use a transceiver for real. flip side is of course, that a phone I was one of those people until 01785 840835 switched on later could be the best way this May when I was caught in www.tragencies.co.uk Importers of Ortovox equipment. to call for help. an avalanche in the Chugach Scottish Avalanche mountains, Alaska. One of the The bottom line Information Service first thoughts that went through www.sais.gov.uk So how much does all this stuff cost? my mind, shortly after “Oh f**k” Snow and Avalanche Centre Surprisingly little compared to the and “I can’t believe this is www.csac.org standard gear you take into the hills. happening to me” was “Thank You can kit yourself out with a full god I’ve got my transceiver on”. Tim will be running workshops at the safety pack for around £350, and it " - Simon Christy, in a recent letter Festival of Climbing for those who'd like will be with you for life. The bare mini- to Summit. to find out more. Try out various mum is a transceiver and shovel, cost- transceivers, see which one suits you.

Winter Sports Instructor Programmes Canada & New Zealand 2002 • CSIA, CASI, NZSIA Ski & Snowboard instruction & examination • CAA & NZMSC Avalanche Level 1 instruction & examination • Backcountry snowcat & heli-touring • 3 to 12 week programmes available

Sven Brunso at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, B.C. by Henri Georgi

For more information please contact the International School of Sport: T: 01572 813 701 F: 01572 812 932 32 E: [email protected] W: www.theISOS.com BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24

30916_Summit24.p65 32 08/11/2001, 12:23 PM

SOUTH AMERICA FROM PATAGONIA TO PERU

From the stormy Patagonian wilderness, to deepest, darkest Peru, South America is one of the world’s most spectacular regions for adventure sports. Loretta Bayliss and Rob Thomas give a personal account of their odyssey through this continent.

solitude and beauty of being out alone in one of the world’s most spectacular natural landscapes. Allow an average of seven days for the full trek, although it is possible in five. As ever, the number one South American hiker’s irritation is the amazing number of relentless mosquitos. The wind will pro- vide short-lived relief, but can be a problem in itself. At times so strong that all but the very best tents are destroyed, spray from mountain pools lifted five meters into the air, and full concentration is required just to keep on the trail. Plan for he diversity is to die for, from isolated outreaches of civilisa roughly three days of mosquitoes and four days of wind and Ttion to the truly Latino big city beat; South America provides rain, but don’t be put off - the raw beauty of one of Chilean an unparalleled experience for the adventure traveller. There’s Patagonia’s best treks more than compensates. the “World’s Most Dangerous Road” for downhill mountain bike freaks, the Paine Circuit for masochists trekkers, and the pris- Los Glaciares, Argentina tine world of snow and ice for gnarly mountaineers. Not as consistently spectacular as Torres del Paine, the park is less frequented than the Torres and is a pleasant Punta Arenas, Chile break from hordes of day-trippers. Home of Fitzroy, one of Our adventure started in Punta Arenas, Chile. We arrived by the most infamous and distinctive climbing areas in South plane from Santiago, a flight that took almost four hours America, you’ll need the patience of a saint to endure the and gave us an excellent view of the volcanoes in the Chil- microclimates experienced here. While the sun is shining ean Lake District. Punta Arenas is a cold, windswept place, everywhere else, this region can have record snowfall. and is theoretically the Southern-most town accessible by road, but actually driving there would be a different matter. Parque Nacional Quelat, Chile For most people the only activity here would be the Penguin The area between Coihaique and the Argentinian border is colonies, and after a half-day walk around town the best one of the wildest and least populated we witnessed, and idea is to catch the first bus North to Torres del Paine. an excursion definitely worth making time for. Likened to Little Yosemite Valley, Parque Nacional Quelat is remote, Torres del Paine, Chile difficult to get to and very, very wet. Best reached by bus from the town of Puerto Natales, the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is unmissable, and to fully (CLOCKWISE) Torres del Paine from the lookout above appreciate the sheer beauty of this park, hike the full Paine campamento Torres. Volcan Villarrica on a perfect morning, Chile circuit. Many parties only hike the “W” which gives a good Lake District. Overnight camp on Huayna Potosi, Cordillera Real. view of the main tourist features, but fails to capture the Loretta at the Torres del Paine lookout. Volcan Lannin. All credits: Loretta Bayliss & Rob Thomas. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24 3 7

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bordering Bolivia. The southwest is a maze of 4x4 tracks leading from high altitude geysir fields to flamingo filled lakes and weird desert moonscapes. The altitude remains over 3500m the entire time you are on the Altiplano, so taking it easy for the first few days is recommended. There are a number of +5000m volcanoes in the area, all of which are difficult to access but relatively easy to climb.

La Paz, Bolivia Other than arriving on a clear day (the approach to La Paz is spectacular), the singularly most excellent thing about La Paz is its proximity to so many peaks of all size and difficulty. Illimani, Huayna Potosi and Illampu are but a few. Alterna- Volcan Villarrica, Chile Lake District. Credit: Bayliss & Thomas tively, there is a 60km downhill ride with an altitude change Friendly locals in Mozambique. Credit: Turnbull of +/- 3000m that will consume just a day and an awful lot But wait for the skies to clear and reveal cascading glaciers, of adrenalin - especially if you cut those corners just a bit cliff bound fjords and deep green forests - the breath is too fine! For the true masochists, there is a sharp uphill at physically sucked from your body. You need to take all sup- the very end that will keep your legs burning well into your plies in (although fresh water is abundant) and an expecta- third, fourth and fifth cool down-ales! tion to see few others for the entire time. Just further north (200kms - six hours drive, if you dare to take your own Huayna Potosi, Bolivia vehicle!) is Futalefu, famed home of world kayaking cham- pion Chris Spelius. You can also try your hand at some Anyone wishing to climb Huayna Potosi will have no trouble. serious white water rafting here - not for the faint hearted. All over La Paz there are companies offering guided climbs to this plus other mountains in the area. According to some Lake District, Chile/Argentina guides it can be climbed in a day but most people should expect to take equipment and supplies for at least one night Both the Chilean and Argentinian Lakes District are truly on the mountain. The normal route is basically a slog with beautiful to behold. Dotted intermittently with snow capped two interesting sections of roughly 45% ice. Not very difficult volcanoes and deep blue lakes the size of small seas, the and no need to set belays but will prove interesting for the lakes provide a welcome tourist break for those who have novice looking for an introduction to Alpine climbing. The best been hard at trekking, climbing, or kayaking. Small time to start is at about 3am with a round trip of between 4 campgrounds are scattered around the edges of the lakes, and 6 hours, most of which is spent getting to the top. The with excellent although rudimentary facilities. You can soak decent offers amazing views of the Amazon basin plus other in spas, wander up a volcano or three (the sulphur spewing peaks in the area. The mountain is ready for climbing as Villarricca worries locals with small eruptions occasionally), early as May but is best climbed between June to Oct. dine in any of Pucon’s scores of cafes and restaurants, relax on the beach, engage in any number of water sports Condoriri, Bolivia …the list is endless. There is little technical climbing in the area, but as a short stop enroute to greater adventure, the This peak is a classic ridge climb and is far more challenging Lakes District is a scenic wonderland. than Huayna Potosi. It can be climbed as early as May but is very prone to avalanche and is not recommended until June. Aconcagua, Argentina None of the guiding companies will encourage it but most will still be prepared to take parties out provided you pay regard- At 6960m this is the highest and most climbed mountain less of success! Base camp is very remote and can only be on the continent, and although one of only two “walk-up” reached by 4-wheel drive or a multi-day hike in from the mountains of the , is still a challenge in highway. The camp itself is an amazing place and gives excel- terms of scale, altitude and endurance. The popular normal lent views of the Condoriri Massif and Pequeño Alpamayo. It route offers the most arduous scree slog you could ever is worth visiting even as a trekking outing with a number of attempt, whilst any of the more technical routes, from the smaller peaks in the area providing great enjoyment. Polish Glacier to the sheer walls of the South Face, required far greater experience and skill. Lake Titicaca, Bolivia/Peru South West Bolivia The highlight of Lake Titicaca, we believe, is Isla del Sol. It is a small, rocky island reached by boat from the mainland. From the moment we entered Bolivia from Northern Chile The main port is a hive of activity when boats are arriving and were charged the “unofficial US$20 entry fee”, we and departing, but this quickly thins out as you head straight knew we were entering a different world. There is no com- up a steep set of stairs to reach the ridge leading down the parison between the civilisation and prosperity of Argentina centre of the island. There is little fresh water on the island, and Chile and the poverty and desolation of their northern and few facilities. Camping is recommended, as wild camp- Glacier Grey, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Credit: Bayliss & Thomas ing is permitted anywhere on the island except in areas of historical value (i.e. the ruins). There is also a growing con- tingent of hostelries and basic accommodations. There are stunning views over the lake to the panoramic be- yond and the walking is pleasant, sun-kissed and generally easy to medium grade.

Machu Picchu, Peru Twenty million odd sized Inca steps (it’s only a slight exag- geration, I assure you!). An equal number of spectacular, rocky ruins. Hundreds of pairs of porters’ be-sandaled, gnarled feet wearing away at the paving stones. Hundreds more pairs of Nike, Reebok, Saloman and Hi-tech cush- ioned feet following slowly in their wake. Local women in

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their bowler hats and bright skirts eyeing us suspiciously as South American Explorers Club we pass. The low drone of a dozen different languages as www.samexplo.org tours establish their camps. This is the Inca Trail at its con- The non-profit South American Explorers Club – a good trasting best. The Inca Trail and the ruins of Machu Picchu overall source of travel information. are Peru’s most popular tourist destinations. Over five hun- Andes dred people, per day, embark on the three-day Inca Trail www.andes.org.uk and twice that numbers visit the archeological wonder of South America tour operator. Also publish Andes guides. Machu Picchu. Independent trail blazing is no longer al- lowed and tours range in price from US$80-150. The trail Books itself is excellently maintained, although far too densely South American Handbook 2002, Box, Footprint. populated with hikers, walkers and dawdlers for the more South America on a Shoestring, Lyon, Lonely Planet. Almagellerhutterugged adventurers amongst us. The ruins are spectacular, Argentina / Bolivia / Chile / Peru Handbooks, Footprint. with the andDom a historical wonder, although I would consider, next Argentina, Uruguay & Paraguay, Bernhardson, Lonely Planet. time, avoiding the crush and spending my days on the diffi- Bolivia, Swaney, Lonely Planet. cult and isolated Huayhuash Circuit instead. Chile and Easter Island, Bernhardson, Lonely Planet. The Andes: A Trekking Guide, Biggar(s), Andes. When to go Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, Lindenmeyer, Lonely Planet. The diverse area means that a visit in any season can be Trekking in Bolivia, Brain, The Mountaineers. worthwhile, but try for: Punta Arenas to Aconcagua - Dec. The Andes: A Guide for Climbers, Biggar(s), Andes. Bolting isthrough not always Apr., bad. Aconcagua Reasonable to Southern bolting Bolivia - May through Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide, Secor, The Mountaineers. on Le Ticket,June, Peigne Southern Slabs, Bolivia Chamonix. to Peru Photo: - July through Oct. Bolivia: A Climbing Guide, Brain, The Mountaineers. Payne. The Mountain Travel Handbook, Deegan, BMC. Travel Travel within Chile and Argentina is easy. Fast, punctual and Insurance comfortable buses travel the main highways, and internal Comprehensive and great value BMC Travel insurance is flights are reasonably priced; the railways, however, have available for all activities, from just travelling to climbing been neglected since the 1970s. Competition has lowered Aconcagua. Call 0161 445 4747, or buy online at domestic airfares, and regional airlines and air taxis traverse www.thebmc.co.uk the country’s long extent. Air passes are particularly attrac- tive. If driving remember that the road infrastructure consists The Mountain Travel Handbook of mainly dirt tracks, which will shake even the most sturdy of The BMC has just published the Mountain Travel handbook, vehicles. Allow plenty of time - rarely can you reach the speed by Paul Deegan. Essential reading before you go, see page limit. Maps in South America are an interesting phenom- 24 for more details. enon, rarely correct and only occasionally present. If you are planning a longer trip avoid the baptism by fire and learn some Spanish before you go. Common phrases like “Dos cervezas, por favor”(two beers please) never go astray.

Health and safety Vaccinations are not required to enter the countries but hepatitis and typhoid are recommended. Cholera can also be useful. Check with your doctor prior to travel, and if trav- www.jagged-globe.co.uk elling to altitude, familiarise yourself with the common symp- toms and solutions to altitude sickness. Care should always be taken in large towns and cities. South America does • A wide range of South American experience a certain amount of problems with theft and expeditions – Aconcagua, Ecuador corruption. The Foreign Office recommendto keep a low pro- Volcanoes, Cotopaxi, Bolivian Climber, Huascaran, Alpamayo file, travel in large groups and use reputable companies. MOUNTAINEERING • The very best leadership and The Foundry Studios, pre-expedition weekend Contacts: 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield S3 8EN, Call for the new Argentinian Tourist Office United Kingdom OUR 2002/2003 brochure on Email: [email protected] 15 th 0845 – 345 8848 Bolivian Tourist Office YEAR Fax 0114 – 276 3344 E-mail [email protected] Email: [email protected] THE SPECIALIST Website: www.bolivia-travel.gov.bo MOUNTAINEERING Chilean Tourist Office Email: [email protected] Website: www.sernatur.cl Peruvian Tourist Office 01556 503929 Email: [email protected] [email protected] Website: www.peru.org.pe Medical Advisory Services for Travellers Abroad Andes For the best information on (MASTA) CLIMBING Tel: 01276 685040 any mountain activities in the MOUNTAINEERING www.masta.org Andes...... visit our website Foreign and Commonwealth Office TREKKING King Charles Street, London, SW1A 2AH SKIING + SKI-TOURING www.andes.org.uk Tel:020 7270 1500 GUIDEBOOKS www.fco.gov.uk MAP LIBRARY or phone or email us for a Lonely Planet INFORMATION brochure, advice or a chat www.lonelyplanet.com

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24 3 9

30916_Summit24.p65 39 08/11/2001, 11:47 AM FORUM ALL CHANGE ! What exactly are these changes at the BMC, and how will it affect you as a member? Braving the world of committees, acronyms, and working groups, Andy MacNae explains what it’s all about. ust over two years ago the Mountain Co-ordination Group, Jwhich consists of representatives from the various British and Irish mountaineering councils and training boards, sat down and tried to do a bit of crystal ball gazing. The fight for meaningful Access legislation in England and Wales was all but won and it seemed a good time to ponder on what next. Those present could see demands on the boards and coun- cils increasing rapidly, and they listed all the things that, in an ideal world, the organisations would like to achieve over the next five years. What could be done that would continue to make a real difference to climbers, hill walkers and moun- taineers? The list was long; representation on regional ac- cess forums, involvement in access mapping, lobbying on Scottish Access legislation, conservation schemes, coastal access rights, support for young climbers, web based ac- cess database, monitoring of training, technical equipment research, an information database, English National Climb- ing Centre, podium places for the team, more funding for expeditions… and many more. What was immediately clear was that there was no way that the councils and boards could achieve all of this with the resources that they had, or were likely to have if the status quo continued. Indeed the BMC was being forced to raise membership subs in order to keep up with the de- mands on its resources and all the bodies could see a se- vere financial crisis looming. It was clear that the old fall back, government grant, was not going to grow and if any- thing it would shrink. And it didn’t seem reasonable to just keep asking the membership for more money until all other options had been explored. Mountain Services will make possible more joint projects So what to do? Should the organisations plan to do less like the BMC/MLTB Safety on Mountains video. or should a way be found to do more? Needless to say the latter option prevailed, discussions went further and so we To put this concept into practice has taken over a year of come in a round about way to our theme - Mountain Serv- discussions, negotiations and agreements but on 4 October ices - and a simple idea. To do in one place many of the 2001 the following bodies formed the Mountain Services things that the boards and councils now do separately Limited Liability Partnership (MSLLP): (=greater efficiency) and to build a range of - Mountain Leader Training Board services that better - Mountaineering Council of Scotland meet the needs of all - Northern Ireland Mountain Training Board, the members (=better - Scottish Mountain Leader Training Board, members benefits), - Wales Mountain Leader Training Board whilst raising additional - BMC funds to support the - United Kingdom Mountain Training Board work of the boards and councils (=more effec- MSLLP is controlled by all these bodies on a one vote each tive councils and basis, and as such it is a true partnership. It is expected boards). that BMC Wales and the Mountaineering Council of Ireland will join shortly. From 1 January 2002 the BMC member- ship services and trading staff will move over to MSLLP and this new body will administer all BMC membership applica- Mountain Services will tions and MLTB registrations. MSLLP will also look after all administer the BMC trading activity on behalf of the BMC and MLTB. MSLLP is Insurance scheme - being set up ready to handle membership, registrations and look out for the 2002 trading for all the other boards and councils and where de- package; greatly sirable a process of change over will take place during 2002. improved benefits and This new structure will bring a real focus to the provision of all prices held or membership services and all the partners believe that this lowered.

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30916_Summit24.p65 40 07/11/2001, 8:59 AM will result in greater efficiency and more resources for the announced his intention to step key programmes. down at the end of the year and so Alongside this new services partnership there is also a in 2002 the BMC will have a new new charity – the Access and Conservation Trust – estab- Chief Officer. Additionally, Derek lished by the Mountaineering Councils to raise additional Walker’s Presidency comes to an funds to directly support Access and Conservation pro- end in April 2002 so it really will be grammes throughout Britain and Ireland. This is a highly ‘all change’ next year. The pair will significant step and ACT has set itself the ambitious target leave behind a significant legacy in of raising £100,000 in its first year. It is already off to a the form of a leaner, more focused great start, see page 16 for more details. and better resourced BMC. An or- ganisation which is better able than Very interesting, but what does this ever to fight for the rights and freedoms of its members. mean to me? At one level members and award holders won’t see a dif- Mountain Services will be able to ference – membership and registration forms will look much make new publications available to the same. But when it comes to resources and services the all the councils board members, at changes will be more apparent – members and award hold- big discounts. Right is the new Moun- ers will see their councils and boards offering a much wider tain Travel Handbook published this range of services and products via Mountain Services. The month by the BMC at £13. idea here is that products and services should be tailored to meet the needs of members and so be better than any- thing available on the existing market. An example of this is Some key BMC programme the BMC Travel Insurance, which from January 2002 will be restructured to offer even higher value and flexibility. So targets during 2002: as well as helping achieve all the objectives mentioned earlier MSLLP means: Improved communication of access and conservation issues to the mainstream and More of your membership money will be free to be specialist media through appointment of a spent on things like access and safety work, and dedicated press/PR person. not get eaten up in administrative costs. Greater resources dedicated to supporting the Membership rates are kept down. BMC’s regional access reps (and others) through appointment of a dedicated volunteer coordinator. More benefits and better rates for insurance cover. Pressing the importance of recreational access in A better information service. the FMD public inquiries.

More guidebooks and skills publications. Research into the economic benefits of climbing, hill walking and mountaineering on rural A wider range of other services – these might economies. include health cover or equipment insurance tailored to climbers and walkers needs, or Investigation into the effects of resin on sandstone subsidised courses for certain groups. stabilisation.

And so what of the BMC? With the Increased use of web based technologies to inform membership and trading team work- and up-date members of access issues. ing for MSLLP the staff base will be much smaller and more clearly fo- Lobbying conservation bodies to prevent statutory cused on delivering the access, con- servation, training, technical, youth, bird bans. heritage, huts, international, compe- tition and climbing wall programme. Climbing wall accreditation scheme. The BMC has ambitious targets in all of these areas (see the box right) and University based research leading to a new helmet if MSLLP can generate sufficient re- standard. sources we can make some very sig- nificant progress during 2002. In July, All the above remains aspirational and is dependent on BMC General Secretary Roger Payne MSLLP and ACT being able to generate sufficient funds dur- ing the year. One thing however is certain – MSLLP means Mountain Services will administer that a greater proportion of your membership money than the MLTB registrations and so make ever before will go to directly support this work – which has more funds available for core MLTB got to be a good thing. programmes.

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30916_Summit24.p65 41 07/11/2001, 9:00 AM MLTB

Changes at the MLTB After almost five years as Executive Secretary of the MLTB, Mike Rosser left at the beginning of September to manage Adventureworks, a subsidiary of Jagged Globe. Mike com- mented ‘The past few years have been an exciting time for the MLTB. When I arrived the home nation Training Boards had just introduced the SPA; this was followed by the har- monisation process for the ML and latterly the Walking Group Leader scheme. One of my aims was to improve the service provided by the Board to candidates, Award holders and course Providers. We have achieved this by increasing the resource base and the number of workshops and seminars provided. I have considered it a privilege to work for the MLTB. and believe that we have taken the Board forward over the past four and a half years.’ The Board recently appointed Andy Say to replace Mike. Andy started climbing at 14 with a lead of Route 1 at Burbage North and never looked back. He moved north to Ilkley Col- lege some 22 years ago, stayed and took delight in ticking his way through over 1500 local routes. Eventually he dis- covered the Lakes and the MLTB trail, and completed his MIC in 1995. For the past 13 years he's been working at an FE College running Outdoor Education courses, and is look- ing forward to some work that will keep him on his toes (And get some inches off his middle!)

Walking Group Leader scheme finally takes off As FMD access restrictions are lifted and areas of the coun- tryside reopen, a growing number of MLTB Course Providers are able to begin running Walking Group Leader (WGL) train- ing and assessment courses. The MLTB has registered over 300 candidates for the new WGL scheme since the beginning of February, despite the fact that only four courses were run before the Foot and Mouth restrictions were imposed. Some Providers are arranging additional dates for cancelled courses, and candidates are advised to check with their Course Pro- vider or check the MLTB web-site. Experienced candidates seeking exemption from the training and consolidation parts of the WGL scheme can now do so at a cost of only £10. Candidates applying for exemption must match the mini- mum assessment pre-requirements at the time of their ap- plication. Note - candidates who have completed ML train- ing but who wish to take an WGL assessment must first register with the WGL scheme and then if they match the WGL assessment pre-requirements they can go for assess- ment without having to apply for exemption.

Guinea pigs required The MLTB is always looking for ML and SPA trainees to assist in the Mountain Assessor Workshops. If you are interested in a Advanced Cut Technology is the newest generation of free opportunity to take part in a mock assessment as part of the preparation for your Award assessment please contact the glove inserts based on the GORE-TEX® Direct Grip MLTB Snowdonia office. ultra concept. The flex is just one of the gloves from Mountain Training Logbook outdoor The new style Mountain Training Logbooks are now in circu- designs® designed to maximise its potential. lation, which makes it easier for candidates to log their ex- perience across a variety of schemes. These are proving A.C.T. = MAXIMUM GRIP popular and we have had a number of requests from candi- dates with the old logbooks asking for a copy of the new A.C.T. = FREE THUMB MOVEMENT one. A set of new inserts will cost £5.00 per scheme and a binder £4.00; including postage. Send a cheque made pay- A.C.T. = FEWER FOLDS INSIDE THE GLOVE able to MLTB to the Snowdonia office with your name, ad- dress, date of birth and candidate registration number. A.C.T. = GREATER COMFORT Award Holder Workshops Links with the BCU/WCA The BCU and WCA have recognised the MLTB Teaching and Coaching in the Mountains, Mountain Assessor workshops, Disability Awareness and Child Protection training as being acceptable as part of their cycle of revalidation. Candidates For a catalogue or info on your nearest will need to present their MLTB course attendance certifi- cate as evidence of having completed the training. outdoordesigns® dealer call 01773 711900 or e-mail [email protected] 42 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24 GORE-TEX¨, Guaranteed To Keep You Dry, Gore¨ and designs are trademarks of W.L.Gore & Associates.

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ARENA MLTB

Management Committee Meeting 10 SW Area Meeting Rescheduled The South West and Southern Area meeting, which was October 2001: Summary originally scheduled to take place on 10th November 2001, Reports were given regarding the National Exhibition of Moun- will now be on 12th January 2002 at The Charterhouse taineering which was opened in July. An update was given Centre in Bristol. The meeting will include a discussion on on the Guidebook Programme and the Working Group re- fixed gear in the Avon Gorge and will be followed by a lec- constituted to deal with a database rights dispute. The lat- ture from Jonathan White on his trip to Greenland. est position on FMD and a report on the CRoW Act were noted. The latest position of the Mountain Services Partner- ship was reported: A board had been appointed and 7 part- Don Whillans Memorial Hut Committee ners had signed up. The deadline for applications for the Dave Brown recently stood down as Honorary Treasurer and Chief Executive of MSLLP was 3 Oct, shortlisting took place Booking Secretary for the Don Whillans Memorial Hut Com- on 4th Oct. and interviews took place on 17 Oct. It was mittee. The Management Committee thanks Dave for his reported that ACT was launched to the trade at ‘Go Out- hard work and support over the years. Suitably experienced doors’, to date £10K had been pledged. It was advised members are invited to put themselves forward if they are that there would be a public launch at the Festival of Climb- interested in either of the positions of Honorary Treasurer ing. Iain McCallum was voted Chair of HCAP. An update was or Booking Secretary. Anyone interested in offering volun- given on the Competition Programme. A draft calendar of teer support is encouraged to get in contact with meetings for 2002 was circulated. Final arrangements for [email protected]. the 2002 Annual Gathering were noted. Bookings have now been made at Rheged and the Shap Wells Hotel on 6 April 2002. The recruitment of Area Meetings Calendar BMC Chief Officer was discussed. Over 80 requests for information for the post had been received. The draft budget for 2002 was discussed and a report was given on the status of grant funding. Rec- ommendations for improved area repre- sentation were discussed, the ManCom were asked to endorse the paper and fur- ther discussions would take place. The Partnership Programme for 2002 was cir- culated. The next Management Commit- tee meeting is on 12 December 2001 at the BMC office.

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that’s been written, what more need In between expeditions, Mallory gave be said?” One of his key contacts was lectures in Britain and North America Geoffrey Winthrop Young whose ‘Pen- and it was during the US tour in 1923 y-Pass’ parties in Snowdonia were a that in response to the question “Why networking forum for climbers. Here climb Everest?” he is alleged to have Mallory honed his exceptional climb- made his famous reply “Because it is ing skills and became well known there.” However, it seems likely that amongst key players from the Alpine Mallory never actually uttered the Club. His combination of climbing pa- phrase; instead there is strong circum- nache and carelessness made him a stantial evidence that it was a form of difficult character to forget. After Cam- pithy journalistic shorthand invented by bridge George considered following his the reporter or copy editor from the father into the church but instead New York Times. Spending time away started teaching history at from his family was upsetting for Charterhouse. He married in 1914 Mallory, and when the inevitable invi- and his wife Ruth gave birth to their tation to join the fateful 1924 expedi- first child the following year. He joined tion arrived, he prevaricated before ac- up in 1916 and served in as cepting. Eventually, aware that his fi- an artillery officer but an old ankle in- nancial security might rest on making jury kept him away from the action for his reputation as the conqueror of Ev- extended periods during the remain- erest, he succumbed to the powerful der of the war. pull of the summit. Unfortunately, the When plans to climb Everest were re- mountain showed no respect for am- vived after the Great War, Mallory – one bition. After expedition leader Edward of a rare band of experienced moun- Norton’s valiant but unsuccessful ‘oxy- taineers to survive without serious injury gen-less’ summit bid, most thought the – was an automatic choice as a lead expedition was finished. Mallory, how- climber. Now with three children George ever, perhaps driven by the knowledge felt pangs of guilt at going off on the that it might be his last chance to JOURNEY'S adventure, but he was reassured by achieve mountaineering immortality, Geoffrey Winthrop Young. Young also decided to have one last-ditch attempt helped to persuade Ruth Mallory that to climb the summit with Sandy Irvine. their future could be more secure if The pair famously disappeared into the Nick Hancock climbing at Great George achieved the celebrity status clouds, never to return. Zawn, Bosigran. Being wise he has ENDING that would automatically fall to the first Norton wrote that the expedition ac- backed up the in-situ peg with plenty With the Mallory exhibit now in person to climb the world’s highest peak. cepted the loss of the two climbers “in of gear! Credit: Turnbull. that rational spirit which all of our gen- the National Mountaineering During the expedition Mallory proved he was a potential winner. With fellow eration had learnt in the Great War... Exhibitition, Colin Wells explores lead climber Guy Bullock he reached but the tragedy was very near; our this now legendary man. an altitude of over 6,700m and dis- friends’ tents and vacant places at ta- covered a feasible route to the sum- ble were a constant reminder to us.” orn in 1886 into a well-to-do mit. The following year, he was back Although he had penned it fifteen years B Cheshire church family Mallory at- with the much larger follow-up expedi- earlier,TECHNICAL the sentiments NOTE of an elegiac tended a boarding school at Winches- tion but they struggled against poor poem written by Geoffrey Winthrop ter where he was introduced to Alpine weather and illness. A near disaster Young seemed to reflect their sense of climbing by one of his masters. He dis- was averted by Mallory’s prompt ice- loss perfectly: played an aptitude for climbing, his axe belay on natural athleticism compensating for a snow slopes at "Brothers till death, and a wind-swept grave, sometimes cavalier approach and a 7,925m when chronic absent-mindedness. His care- three climbers Joy of the journey’s ending: lessness was legendary - climbing the slipped. That Finsteraarhorn (4,274m) in Switzerland same luck did Ye who have climbed to the great white veil, in 1909 he forgot to tie onto the climb- not hold two Hear ye the chant? Saw ye the Grail?" ing rope and only became aware of the weeks later when fact when he was in a very exposed a snow slope avalanched, killing seven position with a thousand-foot fall threat- porters. The loss of so many lives was ening. Always cool under pressure he a bitter blow, and many blamed Mallory re-attached himself and carried on. directly for picking a route up clearly Mallory went up to Cambridge in avalanche-prone slopes. There were 1905 where he moved in exalted cir- mutterings about lack of mountaineer- cles. He joined the Fabian Society and ing judgment and his continuing care- the committee of the University Wom- lessness. Expedition member Tom en’s Suffrage Movement and devel- Longstaff remarked that, “Mallory is a oped influential mountaineering con- good, stouthearted baby, but quite unfit tacts that would lead to his automatic to be placed in charge of anything, in- selection for the early Everest trips. cluding himself”. Mallory himself was Find out more about Mallory, and how Among his acquaintances were intel- mortified by the accident and blamed climbing has progessed through the ages lectual Bohemians including the liter- himself, saying “If I had known more in the new "A Brief History of ary critic and lascivious homosexual about snow conditions here, the acci- Mountaineering". This full colour coffee Lytton Strachey, who, instantly smitten dent would not have happened, and so table book is an ideal present for anyone interested in our sport. Priced just £10, by Mallory’s handsome physique, wrote one may say it was due to ignorance.” “Mon Dieu! - George Mallory! When and available from www.thebmc.co.uk, or 0161 445 4747. (ABOVE) George and Ruth Mallory. 52 Credit: Clare Millikan, Audrey Salkeld Collection. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24

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