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Correspondence
234 CORRESPONDENCE CORRESPONDENCE . ' St. John's School, Leatherhead, Surrey Sep~ember 28, 1955. ·The Editor, the ALPINE JouRNAL. · SIR, I was much impressed by the somewhat unusual article which appeared in the May number of the A.J. entitled ' The Technique of Artificial Climbing.' At first glance it was not easy to decide· which way up some of the illustrations were meant to be. Now, Sir, while I have great respect for the achievements of the exponents of this technique, I would humbly suggest that the article in question is somewhat out of place in the ALPINE JOURNAL and would better grace the pages of an engineering journal. The methods of the ' Hammer ·and Nail Co.' to quote the words of our pre-war Editor, Lt.-Col. E. L. Strutt, are alien to the traditions of the Alpine Club and to British mountaineering generally. It used to be a point of honour never to sully the face of a British climb with a piton. Let me quote the instance of the Munich climb. The visiting party of Germans in the middle 'thirties found it necessary to insert one piton in that remarkably steep and exposed face. The climb was promptly repeated by a British party who took out the piton ! Mountaineering is a sport and not a form of war. A sport is governed by a set of rules which allows each side a fair chance. Why must we use ' all out ' methods in mountaineering ? Why not let the mountain win sometimes ? The occasional piton for security perhaps, for roping off, or when caught by bad weather, but 'tension' climbing no ; etriers no ! . -
1967, Al and Frances Randall and Ramona Hammerly
The Mountaineer I L � I The Mountaineer 1968 Cover photo: Mt. Baker from Table Mt. Bob and Ira Spring Entered as second-class matter, April 8, 1922, at Post Office, Seattle, Wash., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly and semi-monthly during March and April by The Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington, 98111. Clubroom is at 719Y2 Pike Street, Seattle. Subscription price monthly Bulletin and Annual, $5.00 per year. The Mountaineers To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of North west America; To make expeditions into these regions m fulfill ment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life. EDITORIAL STAFF Betty Manning, Editor, Geraldine Chybinski, Margaret Fickeisen, Kay Oelhizer, Alice Thorn Material and photographs should be submitted to The Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington 98111, before November 1, 1968, for consideration. Photographs must be 5x7 glossy prints, bearing caption and photographer's name on back. The Mountaineer Climbing Code A climbing party of three is the minimum, unless adequate support is available who have knowledge that the climb is in progress. On crevassed glaciers, two rope teams are recommended. Carry at all times the clothing, food and equipment necessary. Rope up on all exposed places and for all glacier travel. Keep the party together, and obey the leader or majority rule. Never climb beyond your ability and knowledge. -
Mountaineering Ventures
70fcvSs )UNTAINEERING Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 v Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/mountaineeringveOObens 1 £1. =3 ^ '3 Kg V- * g-a 1 O o « IV* ^ MOUNTAINEERING VENTURES BY CLAUDE E. BENSON Ltd. LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, 35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. AND EDINBURGH PREFATORY NOTE This book of Mountaineering Ventures is written primarily not for the man of the peaks, but for the man of the level pavement. Certain technicalities and commonplaces of the sport have therefore been explained not once, but once and again as they occur in the various chapters. The intent is that any reader who may elect to cull the chapters as he lists may not find himself unpleasantly confronted with unfamiliar phraseology whereof there is no elucidation save through the exasperating medium of a glossary or a cross-reference. It must be noted that the percentage of fatal accidents recorded in the following pages far exceeds the actual average in proportion to ascents made, which indeed can only be reckoned in many places of decimals. The explanation is that this volume treats not of regular routes, tariffed and catalogued, but of Ventures—an entirely different matter. Were it within his powers, the compiler would wish ade- quately to express his thanks to the many kind friends who have assisted him with loans of books, photographs, good advice, and, more than all, by encouraging countenance. Failing this, he must resort to the miserably insufficient re- source of cataloguing their names alphabetically. -
Journal 1983
THE ASSOCIATION OF BRITISH MEMBERS OF THE SWISS ALPINE CLUB JOURNAL 1983 CONTENTS Diary for 1983 3 Editorial 4 Over the Kangla Jot by Miriam Baldwin 5 A Note on Schwarenbach by Paul French 7 Greenland by John Wright 12 Shorter Reports of Members Activities 13 Association activities The A.G.M. 20 Association Accounts 21 The Annual Dinner 24 The Outdoor Meets 24 Obituaries: Derek Lambley, Robert Lawrie 30 Book Reviews 31 List of past and pttsent officers 33 Complete list of members 36 Official addresses of die S.A.C. Inside back cover Officers of the Association 1982 Back cover • DIARY FOR 1983 14-16 Jan. Wasdale — P. Fleming Wed. 23 Jan. Fondue Party, E — E. Sondheimer 28-30 Jan. Glencoe — A. I. Andrews 11-13 Feb. Patterdale (Northern Dinner) — W. B. Midgely Wed. 23 Feb. Dr. Charles Clarke: Mountains and Medicine 25-27 Feb. Llanrwst — R. E. W. Casselton 18-20 March Patterdale (Maintenance Meet) — J. R. Murray Wed. 23 March Les Swindin: Some Memorable Alpine Routes 31 Mar./4 Apr. Patterdale — J. R. Murray 31 Mar./4 Apr. Llanrwst — S. M. Freeman Wed. 20 April John Wright: Antartica 29 Apr./2 May Patterdale — J. R. Murray 29 Apr./2 May Llanrwst — A. I. Andrews 29 Apr./2 May Derbyshire — D. Penlington Wed. 18 May Paddy Boulter: A trip to the Rockies 27-30 May Patterdale — J. R. Murray 27-30 May Llanrwst — R. Coatsworth 28-31 May Arran — A. I. Andrews 28 May/11 June Corsica — R. E. W. Casselton Wed. 23 June Buffet Party 24-26 June Bosigran — M. -
The Ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper
The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license Title: The Ascent of the Matterhorn Author: Edward Whymper Release Date: November 17, 2011 [Ebook 38044] Language: English ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN*** ii The Ascent of the Matterhorn iii “THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS, AND STONES, DART ROUND THE CORNER.” THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN BY EDWARD WHYMPER v vi The Ascent of the Matterhorn WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked together in a kind of necessary connection.—LIVY. LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 1880 All rights are reserved [v] PREFACE. In the year 1860, shortly before leaving England for a long continental tour, the late Mr. William Longman requested me to make for him some sketches of the great Alpine peaks. At this time I had only a literary acquaintance with mountaineering, and had even not seen—much less set foot upon—a mountain. Amongst the peaks which were upon my list was Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphiné. The sketches that were required of it were to celebrate the triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascent. They came—they saw—but they did not conquer. By a mere chance I fell in with a very agreeable Frenchman who accompanied this party, and was pressed by him to return to the assault. -
Glacier National Park, 1917
~ ________________ ~'i DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR / FRANKLIN K. LANE. SECRETARY NATIONAL PARK SERVI'CE,/ STEPHEN T. MATHER. DIRECTOR GENERAL ~FO ~N GL CIER NAL ONAL PARK Season of 191 7 The Alps of America-Wonderful Tumbled Region Possessing 60 Glaciers. 250 Lakes, and M y Stately Peaks-Precipices 4,000 Feet Deep-Valleys of Astonish ing Rugged B auty-Scenery Equaling Any in the World- Large, Excellent Hotels and Comfortable Chalet Camps-Good Roads- The Gunsight Trail Across the Top of the Range-Good Trout Fishing-How to Get There-What to See-What to Wear lor MOUiltain Climbing WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1917 TI-IE NATIO .... PARKS AT A GLANCE ( Chron010gIca,l.ly In the order of theIr creatIon [Number,14; Total Area, 7,290 Square Miles] NATIONAL AREA PARKS In DISTINCTIVE CHARACTERISTICS In order of LOCATION square creation miles H ot Springs •..... Middle H 46 hot springs possessing curative properties-Many hotels and 1832 Arkansa.s boording houses-20 bathhouses under public control. CONTENTS. Yellowstone . ••••. North- 3,348 More geysers than in al1 rest of world together-Boiling 1872 western springs-Mud volcanoes-Petrified forests-Grand Canyon Page. Wyoming of the YelIowstone, remarkable for gorgeous coloring-Large General description_ .. _. _. ........ ..... .... ... ... ...... ........ .. 5 lakes-Many large streams and waterfalls-Vast wilderness A romance in rocks . • _. __ . _. _.. .......................... _. ....... 5 inhabited by deer, elk, bison, moose, antelope, bear, moun- The Lewis overthrust .. __. .... _............................... ...... 6 tain sheep, beaver, etc., constituting greatest wild bird and A general view _ . _____ .. ..... ................................. 6 animal preserve in world-Altitude 6,000 to 11,000 feet- The west side .... -
Representation in Chronological Order of the Evolution and Development of Products and Artifacts Related to Mountaineering and H
Representation in chronological order of 1800 1850 1880 1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020 the evolution and development of products and artifacts related to mountaineering and high mountain activities. The graph places in temporal line the technical improvements developed in correlation with RURP Longware Bong 1959 1964 the achievement of main alpine ascents and Portaledge Camel Bag Avalanche Electric 1970 1989 Backpack avalanche new records. 1997 Backpack A MOUNTAINEERS INNOVATION KEY PRODUCTS Piton Knifeblade Piton Expansion Bolt Lost Arrow 20th Century 1910 1930 1946 A Expansion Bolt, Laurent Grivel, 1930 B Kernmantel Rope, Edelrid, 1953 C Gorotex Membrane, 1976 D New Safety level of Carabiner, 1953 Inflatable Double Gate, Grivel, 2016 Portaledge E Vibram Sole, Vitale Bramani, 1935 B 2019 Static Rope Nylon rope Kernmantel F Full Webbing Harness, Whillans Sit, 1970 1949 rope 1953 G Grigri Discensorm, Petzl, 1991 1800 H Friends and temporary protection, Ray Jardine, 1973 C N-3B PARKA Gorotex 1935 1976 D Karabiner D Shape Snap Gate Quickdraw Wire Gate Screw Gate Captive Double Gate 1910 1937 1953 1970 1991 2000 2016 2016 Tranceiver Tranceiver Tranceiver 1968 1986 2018 E Vibram Carrarmato Alta Quota Danner Boots Koflach Modern Hiking Trail Running 1935 1937 1970 1979 1990 Boots Shoes 2013 Swiss Knife 1884 Mythos Speed 1991 Mountaineering 2010 F Rope Harness Chest Harness Whillans Sit Har- Modern 1800 1967 ness 1970 Harness 2000 CRAMPONS Modern Two poin Rigid crampon Automatic 16TH CENTURY Crampon 1909 Crampons -
From the Archives
PETER BERG From the Archives he archives of the Alpine Club stretch back to the foundation of the T club in 1857 and long before, with some documents dating from the 18th century. As well as Club records, the collection includes letters and diaries, guides' books (Fiihrerbiicher), tapes and film material and newspaper cuttings. Access to this wealth of material, one of the most significant mountaineering archives in the world, has up to now been difficult as we have only had a very limited catalogue. This is now changing, as with the help of a generous grant from the Pilgrim Trust we have been able to engage a professional archivist for two years to compile a complete computer database catalogue including cross-references and notes on provenance, where available. This work should be finished by the middle of 2002, and it is the intention that the catalogue should be available on the Internet to anyone who might be interested. As a step towards familiarising readers with this mine of information, we plan to publish a selection of papers from the archives in the AJ each year. We begin with a poignant pair ofletters from one of the darkest chapters of mountaineering history, both addressed to the Revd. Joseph McCormick: Monte Rosa Hotel, Thursday, 5am. [13 July 1865] MydearM'C, We and Whymper are just off to try the Cervin. You can hear about our movements from the landlord of the Monte Rosa Hotel. Follow us, ifyou like. We expect to sleep out tonight, and to make the attempt tomorrow. Please give an eye to Campbell as long as you are with him, and take him to the Riffel, in case you go there. -
CLIMBS with MEDICAL and WEATHER COMPLICATIONS 347 • • Jungle of Heather, Birch and Rowan, Boulders and Peat, Which I Have Never Succeeded in Circumnavigating
CLIMBS WITH MEDICAL AND WEATHER COMPLICATIONS 347 • • jungle of heather, birch and rowan, boulders and peat, which I have never succeeded in circumnavigating. With Dr. Johnson, I have always felt that ' a walk upon ploughed fields in England is a dance upon carpets compared with the toilsome drudgery of wandering in Skye.' But for all the scratche~ the ridge remains the finest mountaineering • expedition in the British Isles. Or perhaps it is on4y the best but one ; for it has ·one . sad disadvantage· for the real hero. Its completeness is . spoilt by those two awkward outposts of the Black Coolin, isolated amongst the Red Coolin, Blaven and Clach Glas. Blaven is perversely just over 3000 feet high, so that for a gatherer of Munros a traverse of the main ridge leaves one· still to pluck. In June 1939, Charleson and Forde started from a camp at the foot of Gars Bheinn, traversed the whole of the main ridge to Sgurr na h'Uamha, with snow and ice part of the way ; and after a meal and a rest at a camp in Harta Corrie, went up Clach Glas and Blaven and came back to their tent in Harta Corrie, the whole expedition taking five minutes less than 24 hours. Three months later Murray and Donaldson, setting out from Glen Brittle, sustained by vita-glucose and revived with draug4ts of navy rum and Bovril, repeated the feat with half an hour to spare. So history once more repeats itself, and the finest expedition in the British Isles, already only a preliminary tC? an ascent of Blaven and Clach G las, is fast becoming an ' Easy Day for a Lady.' . -
Winter Wandering Is Gaining Traction by Ira Orenstein
Winter Wandering is Gaining Traction by Ira Orenstein Another wonderful year of spring, summer and fall hiking has gone by, preserved in memories and in the plethora of acquired precious images to be sorted and viewed during what for some is an upcoming sedentary winter. For many outdoor enthusiasts exploring the mountains is a seasonal activity that ends needlessly with the coming of the short, snowy winter days ahead. A visit to your favorite outdoor shop will confirm however that there is no shortage of equipment and supplies available to permit the hiker to explore and enjoy wilderness trails year-round. The focus of this article is to discuss how to select proper traction to remain vertical and prevent slipping while walking or hiking on ice and snow-covered terrain. Let’s start with the simplest form of traction. One winter day my family set out to climb Hunter Mountain in New York’s Catskill Park. After pulling into the parking area I realized after taking my first step out of the car that I was atop glassy smooth ice. Snow or ice in the lot had melted the day before and re-froze overnight into water-ice, which can make for extremely slippery conditions that can be even more challenging if the ground is sloping (we can also throw in a coating of fluffy snow to obscure the underlying ice for good measure). In this instance even with the parking lot being flat I couldn’t gain enough traction to stand up, let alone walk to the trunk where our snowshoes and crampons were located. -
Newsletter Something Strange Is Going On
POST 11 – MONDAY JULY 31ST 1865 – from Zermatt JULY N°11 31ST 2015 The Story So Far The Ofcial Enquiry into the his footing, slipped, and the tragedy that followed the rope that tied him to Michel first ascent of the Matterhorn Croz, Charles Hudson and took two days to reach a Lord Francis Douglas pulled verdict. No details have been them all to their deaths. Mr released but it was established Whymper has been allowed that an accident occurred to return home. after Douglas Hadow lost MATTERHORN 2015 Newsletter Something strange is going on hrough my contacts I managed a glance at the transcripts of the Post 11 — Monday July 31st 1865 T from Zermatt court sessions, but now it seems those documents are hidden Something strange is going on away as if they did not exist. Mr Whymper was most upset when Herr Clemenz, the presiding Judge, reneged on his promise 150 Years Ago — to supply to him the answers First Ascent of the that Peter Taugwalder gave. I fear I must take care not to be Matterhorn too public about my privileged information, but would say that I find the evidence most frustrat- ing. Possibly Herr Clemenz was The Rope that Broke trying to be kind to Taugwalder by not pursuing the issue of the It is Summer 1865 choice of rope, but I feel these otherwise. I find it unlikely that ugly rumours would have been Old Peter maliciously used a more easily squashed if clarifi- weaker rope between himself And how many un- witness their achievements cation had been obtained and and Lord Francis Douglas from climbed Alpine peaks will and post back my reports. -
Festival of Climbing All Tooled up Going In
30916_Cover 6/11/01 4:22 pm Page 1 ISSUE 24 - WINTER 2001 £2.50 Festival Of Climbing Are You Ready For It ? All Tooled Up Ice Axe Development Going In The John Muir Trust ACT COMPETITION SOUTH AMERICA AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVERS BMC CHANGES • EXPEDITIONS • MOUNTAIN TRAVEL • MALLORY FOREWORD... GLOBAL SUMMITS (LEFT) The UIAA Summit Charter. (TOP) Roger Payne contemplating global summits. At first sight it may seem strange to suggest the Cuillins of Skye as a possible peace park. However, Skye has been the scene of clan battles, and the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut was erected in memory of all those who fell during the sec- ond world war. Also, following the failure of the disputed sale of the Cuillins perhaps John MacLeod of MacLeod will be prepared to renounce any ownership claim. What a fantastic gesture that would be as a commitment to peace and freedom in the International Year of Mountains. At the launch of the UIAA Summit Charter Robert Pelousek the deputy education minister for Austria was in the mood to make gestures. In an excellent speech in which he high- lighted the many benefits of climbing and mountaineering he announced that Austria would like to see indoor climbing as a component of sports education for all 6 to 11 year olds. He amusingly pointed out that anyone who can learn o, what does it mean that the United Nations to climb and walk in mountains when they are young “…will has designated 2002 as the International Year have no problem moving around on the slippery flatlands Sof Mountains? Will mountains get bigger later in life!” during the year? Or perhaps gravity will be reduced to make them easier to climb? Anyway, isn’t the There is lots happening to celebrate the International Year UN busy solving global problems? of Mountains with various launch events at the Festival of Climbing on 7 to 9 December including the launch of the The response that the mountaineering federations have Access and Conservation Trust with Alan Michael MP, the taken to the International Year of Mountains (IYM2002) is Minister for Rural Affairs.