The Mountaineer I L � I The Mountaineer 1968 Cover photo: Mt. Baker from Table Mt. Bob and Ira Spring Entered as second-class matter, April 8, 1922, at Post Office, Seattle, Wash., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly and semi-monthly during March and April by The Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington, 98111. Clubroom is at 719Y2 Pike Street, Seattle. Subscription price monthly Bulletin and Annual, $5.00 per year. The Mountaineers To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of North­ west America; To make expeditions into these regions m fulfill­ ment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life. EDITORIAL STAFF Betty Manning, Editor, Geraldine Chybinski, Margaret Fickeisen, Kay Oelhizer, Alice Thorn Material and photographs should be submitted to The Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington 98111, before November 1, 1968, for consideration. Photographs must be 5x7 glossy prints, bearing caption and photographer's name on back. The Mountaineer Climbing Code A climbing party of three is the minimum, unless adequate support is available who have knowledge that the climb is in progress. On crevassed glaciers, two rope teams are recommended. Carry at all times the clothing, food and equipment necessary. Rope up on all exposed places and for all glacier travel. Keep the party together, and obey the leader or majority rule. Never climb beyond your ability and knowledge. Judgment will not be swayed by desire when choosing the route or turning back. Leave the trip schedule with a responsible person. Follow the precepts of sound mountaineering as set forth m Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills and the Manual of Ski Mountaineering. Deport ourselves at all times in a manner that will not reflect unfavorably upon our club or upon mountaineering. The Mountaineer 1968 Vol. 61, No. 8, August, 1968-0rganized 1906-Incorporated 1913 CONTENTS Mountaineer Handbook Introduction, Jesse Epstein . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 8 Off the Record-Some Ancient Incidents, Edward W. Allen. .. .. 11 Conservation .............................................. 24-32 Safety and Mountains-Information ..........................33-43 Outdoor Activities .........................................46-70 Mountaineer Outings . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 71 Mountaineer Lodges and Sign-up Procedures .................... 77 Other Activities .........................................103-116 Branches ............................................... 117-123 Mountaineer Library .........................................124 How the Club Operates .................................. 126-142 Mountaineer Annual American-Japanese Joint Expedition-1967, Al and Frances Randall and Ramona Hammerly .......................... 146 Along the Ptarmigan Traverse, Ray Lilleby ...................... 159 Nine Days in the Northern Pickets, Larry Lewin .................. 163 In Memoriam ...... : ........................................ 167 Summit Registers-An Analysis, Harry Wollak .................. 168 The Sawtooth Mountains Outing, Frank Shaw .................. 171 Grace Howard Remembers the First Outing, Morda C. Slauson .... 181 Viewfinders Cascade Crest Trail Outing, Lawrence and Wilma Peterson ..........................................1 85 Recognized Charter Members ................................. 189 South Wilderness Beach Trip, Brian Minault ..................... 190 Campcrafters' Sea-level Mountaineering, J. Worth Gurley ..........197 Climbing Notes .............................................. 202 Administration and Committee Reports .........................210 Statement of Financial Condition, 1966-67 ......................226 Illustrations Sketch, Forest in early morning fog, Ramona Hammerly . .. .. .. .. 6 Map of American-Japanese Joint Expedition, Ramona Hammerly . .143 Map of Ptarmigan Traverse, Ray Lilleby ........................ 158 Pliotographs, 17-20; 37-40; 153-157; 173-176 All sketches by Ramona Hammerly Opposite: Forest in early morning fog Ramona Ham merly An Introduction By JESSE EPSTEIN President, The Mountaineers Sixty-two years ago, some 151 "teachers, librarians, businessmen, professors, physicians, and others" organized a new outdoor club in Seattle. The objectives of this new club, as set forth by these charter members, were considered ambitious and challenging by the organiz­ ers. Just what the other citizens of Puget Sound considered them has not ( perhaps fortunately) been very well documented. In those days when wilderness literally began at the edge of the city, anyone pro­ fessing that it had any value other than keeping loggers and miners employed was apt to be considered eccentric. Looking at those same objectives, most Mountaineers will agree with me that they are still ambitious and challenging; perhaps even more so than in 1906. And even today there are multitudes of non­ members who still consider them preposterous. Who is right? Let's review these objectives, one at a time. To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; No single group can begin to take all the credit for the exploration of the Northwest; prospectors, timber cruisers, railroad surveyors, and Government map makers all deserve a share of the credit, or blame if you will. But ever since our inception, Members of The Mountaineers have been leaders in relating the topographic intricacies of wilderness areas to the recreational and aesthetic needs of Northwest citizens. Our early outings blazed new routes through vast and forbidding for­ ests, ventured into areas where no maps existed, and climbed virgin summits. Even today our activities take members beyond the ends of roads and trails, to the most remote areas of what wilderness remains. And the continual increase of leisure time .in our affluent society will give this role added importance. To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; Introduction 9 Taken in its broadest possible meaning, this would have been quite impossible for the dedicated 151 in 1906, just as it would be for our more than five thousand members today. But The Mountaineers have been recording the history and the traditions of Northwest moun­ taineering and related subjects ever since the publication of our first annual. And during the last decade we have published a rapidly grow­ ing list of books about the Northwest which each day make more citizens aware of our wilderness heritage and how to enjoy it most effectively. To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise, the natural beauty of Northwest America; Here the accomplishments of The Mountaineers are a matter of public record. Starting with efforts which led to the establishment of Olympic National Monument and eventually the Olympic National Park, we have maintained an unceasing vigil against those whose interests are at odds with recognized concepts of wilderness preserva­ tion and use. We have set aside 1 70 acres of Mountaineer land as a Rhododendron Preserve on the Olympic Peninsula. The Washington State Park System is another outgrowth of our early concern, as is the retention of wilderness areas in portions of Mount Rainier National Park. And Mountaineers have been, and continue to be, in the fore­ front at legislative hearings which are hopefully leading to the creation of the North Cascades National Park. But much as we have done toward conservation, the struggle is increasing both in scope and in­ tensity. More and more demands are being made upon the ever shrinking wilderness areas. Pollution of our watercourses and even the air we breathe has assumed most alarming proportions. And progress in the form of mechanized trail, snow, and flying vehicles threatens to eradicate completely the last vestiges of true, unspoiled wilderness. Beyond our state borders the attacks on the California Redwoods, the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, and natural beaches throughout the United States deserve and demand our continual support of sound conservation policies. Yes, the battle of conservation is far from being won; in many respects it is only really beginning. To make expeditions into these regions in fulfillment of the above purposes; 10 The Mountaineer When that was first written it truly took a well planned expedition to reach many of the areas that are now just a few hours distant on modern freeways. But modern transportation has also made it possible for Mountaineer members to organize and take part in expeditions not only in the Northwest but to the furthermost areas of the Earth. Our members have reached the highest summits of every continent; in some cases being among the first to do so. And our Summer Outings have by now provided thousands with a true appreciation of wilderness beauty and meaning. To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life. How are we to be judged here? By our association with other out­ door organizations? By our active branches in Tacoma, Everett, and Olympia? By our active membership list, nearly forty times as large as in 1906? Perhaps only those of us who have been privileged to enjoy the friendly intimacy of a Mountaineer campfire or ski lodge, the willing cooperation of a work party or committee meeting, or the satisfaction of speaking out for our beliefs in public