THE WILD CASCADES October-November 1969 2 THE WILD CASCADES FARTHEST EAST: CHOPAKA MOUNTAIN Field Notes of an N3C Reconnaissance State of Washington, school lands managed by May 1969 the Department of Natural Resources. The absolute easternmost peak of the North Cascades is Chopaka Mountain, 7882 feet. An This probably is the most spectacular chunk abrupt and impressive 6700-foot scarp drops of alpine terrain owned by the state. Certain­ from the flowery summit to blue waters of ly its fame will soon spread far beyond the Palmer Lake and meanders of the Similka- Okanogan. Certainly the state should take a mean River, surrounded by green pastures new, close look at Chopaka and develop a re­ and orchards. Beyond, across this wide vised management plan that takes into account trough of a Pleistocene glacier, roll brown the scenic and recreational resources. hills of the Okanogan Highlands. Northward are distant, snowy beginnings of Canadian ranges. Far south, Tiffany Mountain stands above forested branches of Toats Coulee Our gang became aware of Chopaka on the Creek. Close to the west is the Pasayten Fourth of July weekend of 1968 while explor­ Wilderness Area, dominated here by Windy ing Horseshoe Basin -- now protected (except Peak, Horseshoe Mountain, Arnold Peak — from Emmet Smith's cattle) within the Pasay­ the Horseshoe Basin country. Farther west, ten Wilderness Area. We looked east to the hazy-dreamy on the horizon, rise summits of wide-open ridges of Chopaka Mountain and the Chelan Crest and Washington Pass. were intrigued. To get there, drive the Okanogan Valley to On our way to Horseshoe Basin we met Wil­ Tonasket and turn west to Loomis in the Sin- lis Erwin, one of the Okanoganites chiefly lahekin Valley. Sinlahekin Creek flows north responsible for seeing to it that Horseshoe through this glacier channel to Palmer Lake, Basin was not, as originally planned, omitted whose outlet enters the Similkameen River, from the Pasayten Wilderness Area. Willis which emerges into the channel from a canyon told us that Chopaka was the next objective -- east and heads north into Canada. (The geo- that things were happening there that shouldn't morphology is fascinating.) — that we must campaign for a Chopaka Wil­ derness Area, a new notion for state lands. Drive 3 miles north from Loomis, turn left and cross the valley bottom, and climb steep­ By correspondence in fall and winter, we and ly on the Toats Coulee road. Shortly before Willis planned a "Great Chopaka Camp-In" to North Fork Campground, turn right on the publicize and dramatize the area and the Ninemile Creek road and follow "Chopaka issue. But then, to our sorrow, the illness Mountain" signs 7-8 miles to the road-end at that had been dogging Willis closed in. Our viewpoint 1/4 mile beyond and 200 feet above last letter to him was answered by his friend 6000-foot Cold Spring Camp. Maps cover­ Jerry Vandiver, Secretary of Oroville Sports­ ing the area are the USGS Loomis and Horse­ men Association and the co-leader with Willis shoe Basin Quadrangles. on the Horseshoe Basin and Chopaka projects. Aside from splendid views and the unique So we canceled plans for the "Great Camp- distinction of "farthest east," the special at­ In". But when Willis died, we determined to traction of Chopaka Mountain is the opportu­ hold our own sort of memorial for him by nity to roam meadows in May, when westward visiting Chopaka on Memorial Day weekend. ranges are so deep in snow the coming of Jerry scouted the road beforehand and in­ flowers seems an impossible dream. formed us the way was free of snow. (Robert S. Snoich, Conconully District Ranger of the One further fact of geographic interest: the U. S. Forest Service, also was kind enough entirety of Chopaka Mountain is owned by the to check the road for us in advance.) COVER: Drawing by Mary Jackson from photo by John Warth of Glacier Peak. October-November 1969 3 Thursday evening, May 29, we drove from was seasonally employed, Erwin has worked Puget Sound to the Okanogan Valley, sleeping 12 months a year for such developments, overnight in Okanogan City Park. Friday working ceaselessly to educate the public to morning we drove to the high country and Cold care for their lands." Other campgrounds for Spring Campground, a pleasant spot in an which Willis worked during his 15 years with open grove of pine trees. Willis and Jerry, the Department include Ninemile Campground, while summer employees of the state, were Palmer Lake, and Spectacle Lake.) responsible for the planning and construction of the camp. (They also initiated other camp­ Lovely as is Cold Spring Campground, we grounds and picnic sites on state land in the must report a serious flaw. The camp area area, including the one at Chopaka Lake now is fenced to exclude cows. However, the re-named the Chopaka Lake-Willis Erwin cattlemen who hold the grazing permit use Camp and Picnic Area. To quote Commis­ the campground as a holding pen! We noticed sioner of Public Lands Bert L. Cole, "Back the cow pies, and the sign warning that the in the days before this Department budgeted Cold Spring is not safe to drink, and wondered. any monies for recreation sites, Willis Erwin A passing hiker told us how arrogantly the salvaged and begged for donations and mater­ cattlemen abuse the camp; to get stock around ials, and used his own funds to develop camp­ the cattle-bar at the camp entrance, they grounds for public enjoyment. Although he actually remove a portion of the fence! 4 THE WILD CASCADES In the valley of one of two delightful streams Saturday we loitered slowly to the summit of crossed by the jeep track, we noted an oddity Chopaka, starting on the jeep track, then in the "desert-alpine" mixture of plants — the climbing amid clumps of alpine trees through sagebrush was mostly dead, as if stricken by gentle grass dotted with cow pies and wallows. a blight. Later we found the reason — the The state claims that "only half the grass is state sprays these meadows to kill non-useful eaten each year." A local informant com­ plants, meaning those that can't be eaten by mented, "Yes — only half the grass — the cattle. This, also explained a stand of dead half that's above ground. " lodgepole pine near the campground — the trees killed to make more grass. Do these The over-grazing has done terrible damage. herbicides enter the flesh of the cattle ? Who Some species of plants — including the once- knows? common huckleberries — have been com­ pletely wiped out. Now, by use of herbicides, Back at Cold Spring Campground Friday af­ the state is further molesting the ecosystem, ternoon our complete gang of Puget Sounders which is so ravaged that years will be requir­ assembled — three families plus friends, 17 ed to repair the damage — years, that is, af­ people and one dog, a sizable "camp-in" after ter the cattle leave and respectful management all. We were joined by Jerry Vandiver and begins. family to give the affair a joint Puget Sound- Okanogan sponsorship. The trout Jerry Fortunately, a field of frost-wedged boulders brought from Chopaka Lake highlighted the stops the hooves and we wandered to the sum­ evening meal. And we talked about Willis. mit plateau in genuine, clean, alpine meadow. Napeequa Valley by Richard Brooks October-November 1969 5 Nowadays jeeps rarely attempt to follow the We roamed the mountain top in heather and track, but motorbikes run free. We encoun­ moss seeking new and different views down tered only one gang of wheels on the weekend the stupendous scarp to Palmer Lake, explor­ — a Boy Scout troop! — and they spent most ing to other summits, and returned to camp of their time razzing the campground. The early in the afternoon. The round-trip hiking sparse local population so far has saved Cho- distance from road-end to Chopaka summit is paka from being over-run by motorcycles — about 5 miles, elevation gain 1700 feet, an which surely should be forced to stop at the easy walk. Another mile of high green ridge official road-end. The terrain can't tolerate leads to Hurley Peak and even better views, unlimited wheels and there's no practical way and there is enough more highland to kill a to prevent meadow-gouging if the jeep track rich 2 days, not including trips to Snowshoe is left open to mechanized travel. Mountain, Goodenough Park, Horseshoe Ba­ sin, all of which can be reached from Chopaka The meadows were wide and green, only an if one knows the way or is experienced in occasional lingering snow patch — and this on routefinding. The state should sign the routes Memorial Day! The Horseshoe Basin area and do the small trial improvement required was still thoroughly white though mere weeks to tie Chopaka into the Pasayten Wilderness from melting free. Area. ******** The hiker detailed other Okanogan gripes about Chopaka management. A horse-loading With the help of Jerry — and of Willis, who facility built near Cold Spring to serve rec- accompanied us in spirit through the weekend, reationists has been taken over by cattlemen. our N3C Reconnaissance of Chopaka was a Further, across the road from Cold Spring is magnificent success. We recommend that a private cabin, built on state land without le­ other N3C members make their own inspec­ gal authorization by the cattlemen, who aren't tion. Can't wait for highland summer on the about to be expelled because there, each fall, Cascade Crest? Itchy to wander meadows?' they regally entertain certain State officials.