Stehekin Wild & Scenic River

Eligibility Report

FINAL DRAFT

May 2002 Acknowledgments . . .

The National Park Service gratefully acknowledges the support and assistance of the U.S. Forest Service Wenatchee and Okanogan National Forests – their assistance was critical in this report’s development. Special thanks also to the staff at the North Cascades National Park for helping to make the field work a very pleasant and informative experience.

Executive Summary

This study report evaluates the eligibility and classification of the Stehekin River watershed, located in the North Cascades Mountains of Washington State, as a component of the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System (National System). This evaluation is done partially in settlement of a cause of action brought by the North Cascades Conservation Council1, but primarily as a Department of the Interior requirement for normal management planning processes.

The Stehekin River and its tributaries constitute a comparatively small watershed. Most of the natural and cultural resources found in the watershed are dependent not just on the main stem of the Stehekin River, but also on its tributaries. There is also no clear demarcation between most resources throughout the watershed. For these reasons, it is appropriate to consider the entire Stehekin River system as a single unit for the purposes of this evaluation, with the exception of classifying segments of the river as described later.

Under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act (Act), the river must meet physical requirements (eligibility). These physical requirements are: 1) the river must be free-flowing; and 2) the river must have at least one resource important or unique to the region or nation.

If a river is eligible for the National System, the Act provides for three possible classifications of one or more segments of the river – “wild,” “scenic,” or “recreational.” These classifications are based on the degree of human modification of the river and adjacent shorelands. Because levels of human activity and development are not uniform throughout the Stehekin River watershed, it was appropriate to divide the river into smaller units in order to consider appropriate classifications for each segment as allowed under the Act. Segment 1 extends from the river’s mouth at Lake Chelan and ends at High Bridge, approximately 11 miles. Segment 2 is from High Bridge to Cottonwood Campground, roughly 12 miles. Segment 3, from Cottonwood Campground to the river’s headwaters, is approximately 6 miles in length. All the tributaries were also evaluated. To thoroughly evaluate the entire watershed, the first one-quarter mile of each tributary from Lake Chelan to High Bridge was studied separately from the rest of its length – this allowed separate classifications due to higher levels of human use and development in these lower areas. There two exceptions to this: 1) The first one-half mile of Company Creek was considered separately due to a hydroelectric project; and 2) one- half mile of Bridge Creek where it passes under the North Cascades Highway (one-quarter mile on each side of the highway) was considered separately. Above High Bridge, tributaries were considered in their entirety.

All segments of the river were found to be eligible for designation based on their free-flowing conditions and their outstanding resource values. Segment 1, from the Lake Chelan to High

1 The North Cascades Conservation C ouncil sued the National Park Service over riprapping along roads in the North Cascades National Park Complex. As part of the settlem ent, the National Park Service agreed to assess the eligibility of the Stehekin River as a wild and scenic river.

i Bridge, is “recreational” due to the increased level of human activity/development in the river corridor and the accessibility to the river from adjacent roads and bridge crossings. Segment 2, from High Bridge to Cottonwood Campground, was determined to be “scenic” due to its more limited accessibility by roads and the lack of evidence of substantial human activity. Segment 3, extending from Cottonwood Campground to the river’s headwaters, is undeveloped and has very limited access by trail, and therefore merits classification as “wild.” In addition, the first quarter mile of each tributary, beginning with Lake Chelan through High Bridge, from its confluence with the Stehekin River would be classified as “recreational,” due to bridges, trails, and residential development. The rest of these tributaries’ lengths would be classified as “wild,” as would all tributaries above High Bridge. Company Creek, with its hydroelectric project located approximately one-half mile away from the river, would be recreational for the first one-half mile, then wild for the rest of its length. Bridge Creek, which has been modified by construction of the North Cascades Scenic Highway on its upper reaches, would be “recreational” for its first one-quarter mile and for one-quarter mile on each side of the highway; the rest of the river would be “wild.”

ii iii Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION ...... 1 Purpose ...... 1 Wild & Scenic Rivers Act – Criteria and Process ...... 1 Study Area/Segments – Stehekin River Watershed ...... 2 Existing Federal Management ...... 3 Stephen Mather Wilderness and Glacier Peak Wilderness ...... 3 Wenatchee National Forest and Okanogan National Forest ...... 4 North Cascades National Park Complex ...... 4 North Cascades National Park ...... 4 Lake Chelan National Recreational Area ...... 5

EVALUATION OF ELIGIBILITY ...... 6 Free-Flowing Condition ...... 6 Segment 1 – Lake Chelan to High Bridge ...... 6 Segment 2 – High Bridge to Cottonwood Campground ...... 6 Segment 3 – Cottonwood Campground to the Headwaters ...... 6 Tributaries ...... 7 Conclusion ...... 7 Outstandingly Remarkable Values ...... 7 Wildlife ...... 8 Birds ...... 8 Mammals ...... 10 Herptiles ...... 11 Conclusion ...... 11 Fish ...... 11 Conclusion ...... 14 Prehistoric Resources ...... 14 Conclusion ...... 16 Historic Resources ...... 16 Conclusion ...... 19 Geology ...... 19 Conclusion ...... 21 Scenic Resources ...... 21 Conclusion ...... 23 Recreation ...... 23 Whitewater Rafting ...... 24 Other Recreational Boating ...... 24 Fishing ...... 25 Hunting ...... 25 Hiking ...... 25 Camping ...... 25 Conclusion ...... 26

iv Other Exceptional Values ...... 26 Vegetation/Botany ...... 26 Conclusion ...... 28 Conclusion ...... 28

CLASSIFICATION ...... 30 Elements of Classification and the Stehekin River ...... 30 Water Resource Developments ...... 31 Shoreline Development ...... 32 Accessibility ...... 32 Water Quality ...... 32 Stehekin River Classification ...... 33 Segment 1 – Lake Chelan to High Bridge ...... 33 Segment 2 – High Bridge to Cottonwood Campground ...... 33 Segment 3 – Cottonwood Campground to the Headwaters ...... 33 Tributaries ...... 34 Conclusions ...... 34

CONCLUSIONS ...... 36

Appendix A – Acronyms and Abbreviations ...... 38

Appendix B – Bibliography ...... 39

Appendix C – Report Preparers & Reviewers ...... 41

v INTRODUCTION

Purpose

The purpose of this study is two-fold. Its first objective is to determine if the Stehekin River and its tributaries meet the eligibility criteria for inclusion in the National System.2 The second objective is to suggest appropriate classifications of any eligible segments.3 In addition to being required by the Act, this would provide a basis for future management decisions of the watershed, should the river at some point be placed in the National System. In the interim, federal managing agencies should do everything possible to ensure that the river retain its eligible status.

This assessment makes no recommendation as to whether or not the river should be placed in the National System. The report only indicates the study’s findings regarding the river’s eligibility for potential inclusion.4

Wild & Scenic Rivers Act – Criteria and Process

Enacted in 1968, the Act establishes a framework to permanently protect selected free-flowing rivers in their natural condition for the public’s present and future use and enjoyment. This alternative to dams, levees, and other river construction was intended to balance the nation’s water resources development policies with river conservation and recreation goals. Designated rivers receive protection from water-resource projects, such as new hydropower facilities, that would alter the river’s free-flowing characteristics or have a direct and adverse effect on the river’s outstanding resources. Section 1(b) of the Act states:

It is hereby declared to be the policy of the United States that certain selected rivers of the Nation which, with their immediate environments, possess outstandingly remarkable scenic, recreational, geologic, fish and wildlife, historic, cultural, or other similar values, shall be

2 Eligibility refers to the physical condition of the river. See the next page for an explanation of the eligibility requirements.

3 A “suitability” study is also frequ ently conducted – especially if the study was initiated at the direction of Congress. Suitability refers to the socio-econom ic conditions associated with the river. For example, these questions might be considered: A re there ways to protect the river other than w ild and scenic river designation? Is wild and scenic river designation in the public interest? Are there other uses of the river that should be considered? A suitability study relies heavily on public involvement and input to reach its conclusions.

4 Since this is not a congressionally directed study, there is no public interest at this time to pursue wild and scenic river designation – and this study is part of norm al land planning processes – there was no reason to conduct a suitability study at this time.

1 preserved in free-flowing condition, and that they and their immediate environments shall be protected for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations.

The Act immediately designated eight rivers into the National System,5 and specified the processes and criteria for how other rivers would be added.6 To be eligible for inclusion in the National System, a river or river segment must: 1) be free-flowing, as determined by standards set by the Departments of the Interior and Agriculture; and 2) possess one or more outstanding resource(s) of significance to the region or nation, such as exceptional scenery, recreational opportunities, geology, fisheries, wildlife, prehistoric values, or cultural heritage. These resource values must be directly related to, or dependent upon, the river.

Rivers that are found eligible are classified according to the level of human impact along the river. Each classification carries with it different responsibilities in management and protection. A designated river may be divided into several different segments, with each segment having a different classification. As defined by Section 2(b) of the Act, the three classes of national wild and scenic rivers are:

Wild river areas – Those rivers or sections of rivers that are free of impoundments and generally inaccessible except by trail, with watersheds or shorelines essentially primitive and waters unpolluted. These represent vestiges of primitive America.

Scenic river areas – Those rivers or sections of rivers that are free of impoundments, with shorelines or watersheds still largely primitive and shorelines largely undeveloped, but accessible in places by roads.

Recreational river areas – Those rivers or sections of rivers that are readily accessible by road or railroad, that may have some development along their shorelines, and that may have undergone some impoundment or diversion in the past.

Study Area/Segments – Stehekin River Watershed

The Stehekin River is located in the North Cascades Mountain range of Washington State; its headwaters are approximately 40 miles from the Canadian border. Beginning at the glaciers located near Cascade Pass, the river flows southeast through a narrow, glacially carved valley until it empties into Lake Chelan. During this journey, the river travels approximately 29 miles and loses 4,300 feet in elevation as it passes through areas of diverse vegetation and landforms

5 As of June 2000, 156 rivers or river segments totaling 10,931 miles have been included in the National System; three are located in Washington State – the Klickatat, Skagit, and White Salmon Rivers and some of the Skagit River tributaries.

6 Rivers can only be added by congressional action, or by the Secretary of the Interior following the request of a state governor, provided the river is already a component of a state river protection system. Neither the Stehekin River nor any of its tributaries are included in the Washington State Scenic Rive rs System ; the only way the river could be designated wild and scenic is through congressional action.

2 dramatically sculpted during the last ice age. The Stehekin watershed drains an area of approximately 250 square miles. The entire watershed is the focus of this eligibility study for possible future inclusion in the National System. If at a future date, the river is designated as a wild and scenic river, this would provide the greatest protection to this pristine drainage and its resources.7

The small community of Stehekin, situated along the lower few miles of the Stehekin River, is the only inhabited area located in the study area. With approximately 70 permanent residents, it has no road connections to the rest of the world. Visitors and residents arrive by passenger ferry, private boat, float plane, horseback, and on foot. The one primary road that connects the community roughly parallels the river for approximately 20 miles.

Existing Federal Management

The National Park Service (NPS) manages most of the land along the Stehekin River and its tributaries. The North Cascades National Park Complex is divided into several management areas that are directed according to the goals and requirements of different legislation. The U.S. Forest Service (USFS) is the other major land manager, controlling land along many of the tributaries to the north and south of the river. The Stehekin River and/or its tributaries pass through the following management areas, and are consequently affected by the practices and policies of the various administering agencies.

Stephen Mather Wilderness and Glacier Peak Wilderness

In 1964, the Wilderness Act established the National Wilderness Preservation System. The legislation’s goal is to manage designated wilderness areas “in such manner as will leave them unimpaired for future use and enjoyment as wilderness, and so as to provide for the protection of these areas, the preservation of their wilderness character, and for the gathering and dissemination of information regarding their use and enjoyment as wilderness.” Wilderness is defined to be “an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” Part of maintaining the element of wilderness is not allowing commercial development or permanent roads within the wilderness area. Components of the National Wilderness Preservation System located within the Stehekin drainage include the Stephen Mather Wilderness, administered by the NPS as part of the North Cascades National Park Complex, and the Glacier Peak Wilderness, managed by the USFS as part of the Wenatchee National Forest.

7 At resent, there are no complete watersheds included in the National System.

3 Wenatchee National Forest and Okanogan National Forest

The Stehekin watershed includes two portions of the Wenatchee National Forest. Several of the Stehekin’s southern tributaries pass through the Glacier Peak Wilderness, managed by the Wenatchee National Forest, and the river’s more northerly tributary, Bridge Creek and its secondary tributaries, pass through a portion of the Wenatchee National Forest that is currently administered by the Okanogan National Forest. National forests are administered by the USFS for the “management, protection, and use of the resources on these lands to benefit the American people.” National forest resources provide significant public benefit, including water, forage, wildlife, habitat, wood, recreation, and minerals. These resources are managed under the multiple use concept – managing resources for the best combination of uses to benefit the public while insuring the productivity of the land and protecting the quality of the environment. The portion of the Wenatchee National Forest that contains the upper tributaries of the Stehekin watershed has been administratively set aside from most of the usual national forest practices, such as timber harvest and mining, and is primarily managed to protect its wilderness qualities.

North Cascades National Park Complex

Three units, all administered by the NPS, make up the North Cascades National Park Service Complex – North Cascades National Park, Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, and Ross Lake National Recreation Area.8 The three areas were established by the North Cascades Act in 1968. Most of the lands needed to create the new park were transferred from the USFS. In creating the Park Complex, Congress stated that the agencies should manage the entire North Cascades as a unit rather than arbitrarily heeding administrative boundaries. This has led to coordinated planning for national forests, wilderness areas, recreation areas, Seattle City Light hydroelectric installations, and the Park Complex. In 1988, Congress designated approximately 93 percent of the three areas, totaling over 684,000 acres, as the Stephen Mather Wilderness to provide additional legislated protection. The Park Complex, which adjoins public land preserved in Canada, is the core of one of the largest protected wild areas in the United States. A significant portion of the Stehekin watershed lies within two of the three units of the Park Complex and is managed according to this legislation.

North Cascades National Park

According to the National Park Service Organic Act, the goal of the NPS is to “conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wildlife therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” The North Cascades National Park was proposed in 1906 and 1935, and was finally established in 1968, largely due to public support. Its specific

8 Hereafter referred to as the “Park Com plex.”

4 goals are to preserve “for the benefit, use, and inspiration of present and future generations certain majestic mountain scenery, snow fields, glaciers, alpine meadows, and other natural features in the North Cascades Mountains in the State of Washington.”

Lake Chelan National Recreational Area

The Lake Chelan National Recreational Area (NRA) was also established in 1968 as part of the Park Complex. Its purpose is to “provide for the public outdoor recreation use and enjoyment of portions of the Stehekin River and Lake Chelan, together with the surrounding lands, and for the conservation of the scenic, scientific, historic, and other values contributing to the public enjoyment of such lands and waters.” The decision to designate the lower Stehekin River Valley and upper Lake Chelan areas as a recreation area instead of as part of the national park was primarily due to private ownership, development in the Stehekin Valley, and traditional use of the surrounding land.

5 EVALUATION OF ELIGIBILITY

The Act requires that, to be eligible for inclusion in the National System, a river or river segment must be free-flowing and, with its immediate environment, must possess one or more outstandingly remarkable scenic, recreational, geologic, fish and wildlife, historic, cultural, or other similar values.

Free-Flowing Condition

Free-flowing, as applied to “any river or section of a river,” is defined in section 16(b) of the Act as:

. . . existing or flowing in natural condition without impoundment, diversion, straightening, rip-rapping, or other modification of the waterway. The existence, however, of low dams, diversion works, and other minor structures . . . shall not automatically bar its consideration for inclusion: Provided, that this shall not be construed to authorize, intend, or encourage future construction of such structures within components of the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System.

Segment 1 – Lake Chelan to High Bridge

While the lower river from Lake Chelan to High Bridge certainly exhibits some level of channel modification or restriction, these intrusions are generally unobtrusive and of short length. Existing channel modifications include a vehicular bridge crossing above Company Creek Campground, short stretches of riprapping, and a few stone current deflectors intended to protect the main road without the need for riprapping. River flow is primarily natural, and these few modifications are well within the standards for a wild and scenic river.

Segment 2 – High Bridge to Cottonwood Campground

Segment 2, from High Bridge to Cottonwood, has almost no river restrictions, apart from a few vehicular bridge crossings. These occur at High Bridge and at Tumwater Campground.

Segment 3 – Cottonwood Campground to the Headwaters

River flow is natural between Cottonwood Campground to the headwaters of the Stehekin River, with no modifications.

6 Tributaries

This section considers the first one-quarter mile of each tributary from its confluence with the Stehekin River for the stretch from Lake Chelan to High Bridge (excepting Company and Bridge Creeks); above this point, there are no significant modifications, and no segments of these tributaries were not considered separately. There are two very small diversions located on tributaries of the Stehekin River within one-quarter mile of the river. One is to provide irrigation water for Buckner Orchard and is located on Rainbow Creek. This diversion uses a small, low-head dam to divert water. However, this dam is extremely low, and has a negligible impact on the tributary. The other diversion, located on Boulder Creek, is to provide water for a private landowner. This also has very limited impact on river flow. Above High Bridge, there are several bridges spanning tributaries, but they are all designed for foot traffic only and do not alter river flow.

A small hydroelectric project located on Company Creek is approximately one-half mile from the Stehekin River. However, the project is run-of-river and does not significantly impact flow; these types of projects are allowed under the Act. Bridge Creek does exhibit channelization where it crosses under the North Cascades Highway, but this impact is very localized and insignificant on the larger scale. This short span of channelization would be in keeping with the spirit of the Act and would not preclude designation.

Conclusion

The entire Stehekin watershed, which contains no dams, major diversion structures, excessive rip-rapping, or significant channel or other modifications was found to be free-flowing for purposes of the Act.

Outstandingly Remarkable Values

The second criterion that a river must meet to be eligible for inclusion in the National System is that it must possess one or more outstandingly remarkable values. The term “outstandingly remarkable” is not precisely defined in the Act. As directed by 1982 interagency guidelines, the determination of whether or not a river area contains outstandingly remarkable values is based on the professional judgement of the interdisciplinary study team. The USFS and the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), at least within the states of Oregon and Washington, have attempted to develop standards for certain categories of values in order to assist the team’s assessment. The NPS has used these standards on many wild and scenic river studies; where possible, this report defers to the standards USFS and the BLM.

7 Wildlife

USFS and BLM criteria for outstandingly remarkable wildlife are:

Wildlife values shall be judged on the relative merits of either wildlife populations or habitat or Native American cultural use – or a combination of these conditions.

The river or area within the river corridor contains nationally or regionally important populations of indigenous wildlife species. Of particular significance are species considered to be unique, or populations of federal or state listed or candidate threatened, endangered and sensitive species. Diversity of species is an important consideration and could in itself lead to a determination of outstandingly remarkable.

The river or area within the river corridor provides exceptionally high quality habitat for wildlife of national or regional significance, or may provide unique habitat or a critical link in habitat conditions for federal or state listed or candidate threatened, endangered and sensitive species. Contiguous habitat conditions are such that the biological needs of the species are met. Diversity of habitats is an important consideration and could, in itself, lead to a determination of outstandingly remarkable.

Though there has been a long history of human presence and use in the watershed, such as traditional hunting and gathering by Native Americans, historical activities of mining and homesteading, and current recreational activities, the area remains relatively remote and undisturbed. These large tracts of wilderness, which encompass a number of diverse cover types, contain the habitat quality and quantity required by many species of wildlife, some of which are species of special interest. The terrestrial portion of this watershed provides habitat or potential habitat for five federally listed threatened or endangered species and twenty candidate species or species of concern, as well as eight state listed threatened or endangered species and three candidate species. (See page 13 for a complete list of state and federal threatened and endangered species.)

Birds

The Stehekin watershed provides excellent habitat for several raptors of special interest, including bald eagles, northern spotted owls, peregrine falcons, ospreys, northern goshawks, and ferruginous hawks. Though the Stehekin River watershed is part of the bald eagle’s historic range, there are no known individuals nesting or utilizing the area. However, the area contains potential habitat for this federally and state listed threatened species, which require isolation, tall and mature trees for nesting, and clean water for foraging. Northern spotted owls rely on the large tracts of old-growth and late successional forests in this watershed for nesting and roosting, foraging, and dispersal habitats. Habitat requirements include moderate to high canopy closure, multi-layered and multi-species canopy with large overstory trees, and large accumulations of fallen trees or other woody debris. The current status of this raptor is state listed endangered and federally threatened. Peregrine falcons, which are both state and federally listed as endangered, are birds of open spaces that usually inhabit high cliffs and

8 bluffs overlooking a river. Two species that are protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act (16 U.S.C. 703-712) are known to be present in the area, the osprey and the northern goshawk. Ospreys, which is a state priority species, build large bulky nests near the top of large, mature trees located near water. The northern goshawk nests sparingly along the slopes of the North Cascades, including areas within the Stehekin River drainage. This raptor is a candidate for state listing and a federal species of concern. It prefers coniferous or mixed forest for nesting, where it can build large structures in the upper portions of tall trees. Its ideal habitat includes open woodlands adjacent to these forests that support its primary prey – rabbits and hares. The ferruginous hawk, state listed threatened and a federal species of concern, does not rely on the forests found in the Stehekin watershed, but on its grassland cover type. It builds large, bulky nests in isolated trees, on rocky ledges, or occasionally on the ground, and hunts small mammals. All of these sensitive raptor species have been adversely affected by many factors, including habitat loss.

Other bird species rely heavily on the Stehekin River for parts of their life cycle. Meadows adjacent to the river provide feeding, resting, and nesting habitat for several species of waterfowl, some of which are also species of special interest. Harlequin ducks, federally listed as a species of concern, are found within the Stehekin watershed. They nest in rocky nooks, under logs, or in hollow stumps along forest mountain streams with fast flowing water. A 1990 study noted several important brooding sites for this duck along the river, including the section from the mouth of Rainbow Creek to Harlequin Bridge, the segment along the Buckner Orchard, and the river section from McGregor Meadows to the Courtney Ranch. The black tern, which is also federally listed as a species of concern, potentially uses this area for summer habitat, where it nests in the shallow waters of the river and its neighboring marshes. Other birds known to nest along the river include great blue herons, American dippers, spotted sandpipers, belted kingfishers, and common mergansers.

Two near-arctic neotropical migrant songbirds may utilize habitat along the Stehekin River and its tributaries, both of which are federally listed as species of concern. Mountain meadows and riparian areas with willow thickets and standing or running water are necessary breeding habitat for the little willow flycatcher. The olive-sided flycatcher is mostly found in fir stands near ponds and marshes, where the bird can perch on dead branches at the tops of the tallest trees.

Other plant communities of the Stehekin watershed provide habitat to many more bird species. Mountain meadows and forest edges, for example, provide habitat for the downy hummingbird. The common nighthawk, which is not a hawk but an insect-eating relative of the whippoorwill, is found in areas of the bunchgrass cover type. Cedar waxwings and downy woodpeckers can be seen in open broadleaf forest areas. The coniferous forests provide fir and pine cones for red crossbills and white-winged crossbills. Numerous other passerines inhabit the Stehekin River wateshed for some or all of the year.

9 Mammals

The Stehekin drainage provides habitats that support a great variety and abundance of mammals. Small mammals, such as long-tail voles, shrews, rabbits, hares, deer mice, Pacific jumping mice, and other rodents provide an abundant prey base for both mammalian and avian predators. One of these small mammal species, the western gray squirrel, is federally listed as a species of concern and state listed as threatened. This species, relying on mixed coniferous forest habitat, is now restricted to a small portion of its former range primarily due to development and land conversion. Beaver and muskrat are found along the river. Pikas and marmots are common sights in the alpine regions.

Several bats species that are federally listed as species of concern may potentially use this drainage system, including yuma myotis, fringed myotis, small-footed myotis, pale Townsend’s big-eared bat, and long-eared myotis. These species require many of the different forest cover types found in the watershed. Yuma myotis, for example, roosts in trees and caves near water, while fringed myotis and small-footed myotis prefer caves and crevices located in dry open forests. The pale Townsend’s big-eared bat is found in caves and mine shafts located in scrub and pine forests, and long-eared myotis roosts primarily in coniferous forests.

Mule deer and white-tailed deer are often found in the forests, orchards, clearings, and even the backyards of local homes in the Stehekin Valley. Elk and moose are rarely seen, though the area provides suitable habitat for both species. The upper reaches of the watershed are part of the historical range of California bighorn sheep, a federally listed species of concern. California bighorn sheep are found in semi-open, precipitous areas containing rocky slopes, ridges, cliffs, or rugged canyons that provide adequate forage, water, and escape terrain

Several common species of predators in the river area, including black bear, bobcat, coyote, raccoon, and long-tailed weasel, rely on riverine habitat and prey and the large ungulate populations that the area supports. Other predators found or potentially found in the watershed are more rare and many have federal and state protection according to the Endangered Species Act. The North Cascades is a part of the historical range of the grizzly bear, which is federally listed as threatened and state listed as endangered. The main habitat requirement for North America’s largest omnivore is a large home range that includes diverse forests interspersed with moist meadows and grasslands located in or near mountainous regions, such as found in the Stehekin Valley. North Cascades National Park may support an unknown number of these bears. Gray wolves, which were once abundant throughout the United States, are now federally and state listed as endangered. Necessary habitat for gray wolves includes forested and open habitats with sufficient year-round prey and minimum exposure to humans. Several sightings of wolves since 1984 suggests that there is a small colony now located in the North Cascades. Though there have been no sightings of wolves in the Stehekin watershed, it does provide potential habitat for this endangered species. The Canadian lynx, Pacific fisher, and California wolverine are predators of the far north whose habitats extend south along the spines of mountain ranges. Though none of these species are

10 common in the North Cascades, they have been historically present in low numbers and may currently have small populations in the region. Suitable habitat for all three species includes some components of old-growth structure, including large trees or snags for denning, as well as large areas of relatively contiguous habitat, which is now primarily found only in designated wilderness areas. The California wolverine, in particular, requires complete isolation and the total absence from disturbance by humans. The Canadian lynx is a federal candidate species and state threatened species, the Pacific fisher is a federally listed species of concern and state listed as endangered, and the California wolverine is a federal species of concern and a candidate for state listing.

Herptiles

Talus slopes and rocky hillsides within this watershed provide habitat for lizards and den sites for snakes, while amphibians inhabit moist sites along the river and its tributaries. Several federally listed reptile and amphibian species of concern are found or potentially found in these habitats within the Stehekin drainage. The northern sagebrush lizard utilizes sagebrush areas containing fine gravel, sandy, or rocky soils, where it can search for insects and hide from potential predators. The tailed frog lives in and near rock-strewn mountain streams having cold, clean, fast-flowing water. Any silt in the water, such as from bank development or manipulation, may prevent eggs from developing into healthy tadpoles or may prevent egg-laying completely. The Cascade frog prefers mounting meadows, streams and ponds located above 3,000 feet. For unknown reasons, this species has declined dramatically, even in areas that appear to be pristine. The Columbia spotted frog is a state candidate for listing, as well as a federally listed species of concern. This frog is generally aquatic and found near permanent bodies of cold water, such as streams or marshes, in relatively mountainous terrains. It is thought that these frogs are declining due to loss of habitat and to the introduction of nonnative predators.

Conclusion

Many animal species that are unusual, threatened, endangered, or of concern are found in the Stehekin River watershed. Many of these species are dependent on the river for some or all of their life cycle, or the river is a critical habitat component. This is a more than sufficient basis for determining that wildlife is an outstandingly remarkable value of the Stehekin Valley. This determination is further strengthened by the diversity of species found in this watershed, and its diverse and contiguous habitat conditions.

Fish

The USFS and BLM criteria for an outstandingly remarkable rating for fish resources are:

11 Fish values may be judged on the relative merits of either fish populations or habitat or Native American cultural use – or a combination of these river-related conditions. Consideration shall be given for potential as well as existing values.

The river is internationally, nationally or regionally an important producer of resident and/or anadromous fish species. Of particular significance is the presence of wild stocks and/or federal or state listed threatened, endangered and sensitive species. Diversity of species is an important consideration and could, in itself, lead to a determination of outstandingly remarkable.

The Stehekin River supports or can support three fish species whose numbers are threatened or declining. The river was historically populated primarily by bull trout and westslope cutthroat trout. Bull trout was listed as federally threatened for all Columbia River drainages in 1998, and it is also a candidate for state listing. This species requires cold clear water and pristine environments for reproduction, and it prefers habitats that provide deep pools, abundant cover, root wads and other woody debris, and clean gravel and cobble beds. Though the Stehekin watershed contains all of these characteristics and can therefore provide exceptionally high quality habitat for this fish species, it is likely that it has been extirpated from this drainage. The last official record of bull trout in the watershed was in the 1950's, and recent surveys have not detected any populations in the Stehekin River or its tributaries. Overfishing, disease, and competition with introduced species are believed to be responsible for its decline or disappearance from many watersheds. Future decisions to reintroduce the species to this part of its historical range are likely.

The other primary native species is the westslope cutthroat trout, which is currently a federally listed species of concern. Two different populations may have inhabited or relied upon the Stehekin River. A lake dwelling population, which is also believed to be extirpated, utilized the river for spawning. A resident stream population is abundant in the upper Stehekin River, but the status of their genetic purity is unknown. Hybridization with other stocked strains of cutthroat and rainbow trout is highly likely. The greatest threats to this species include loss of habitat, competition, fishing pressures, and hybridization with introduced trout species, such as rainbow trout.

A third trout species native to the Stehekin watershed is also declining – the inland redband trout. These landlocked populations, which spawn in the streams of the Pacific Northwest, require precise water conditions, including cold temperatures, pristine environments with no pollution, and an abundant food source. Loss of habitat may be the largest threat to the survival of this species, which is state listed as threatened and federally listed as a species of concern.

Current fish populations in the Stehekin River consist of mainly introduced species, including rainbow trout, brook trout, cutthroat trout, and kokanee salmon. The Stehekin River and its tributaries provide necessary habitat to many of these species for spawning, including rainbow and cutthroat trout in the spring and landlocked chinook, kokanee and sockeye salmon in the fall. Rainbow trout and kokanee receive moderate recreational fishing pressure.

12 Threatened, Endangered, and Sensitive Flora and Fauna Found Within the Study Area and Those Potentially Within or Near the Study Area

Status Species Washington Federal Birds Northern spotted owl E T Peregrine falcon E E Bald eagle T T Osprey P Northern goshawk C SC Ferruginous hawk T SC Harlequin duck SC Black tern SC Little willow flycatcher SC Olive-sided flycatcher SC Mammals Western gray squirrel T SC Yuma myotis SC Fringed myotis SC Small-footed m yotis SC Pale Townsend’s big-eared bat SC Long-eared myotis SC California bighorn sheep SC Grizzly bear E T Gray w olf E E Canadian lynx T C Pacific fisher E SC California wolverine C SC Herptiles Northern sagebrush lizard SC Tailed frog SC Cascade frog SC Columbia spotted frog C SC Fishes Bull trout C T Westslope cutthroat trout SC Inland redband trout T SC Plants Utes ladies’ tresses T T Seely’s silene T SC Wenatchee larkspur T SC Clustered ladyslipper T SC Whited milk-vetch E SC Two-spiked m oonwort S SC

E = Endangered Species T = Threatened Species S = Sensitive Species C = Candidate Species SC = Species of Concern P = State Priority Species

13 Conclusion

Because the Stehekin River drainage can provide essential habitat for three potentially endangered fish species and other fish species, its fisheries are determined to be an outstandingly remarkable value.

Prehistoric Resources9

The USFS/BLM criteria states:

The river or area within the river corridor contains a site(s) where there is evidence of occupation or use by Native Americans. Sites must have rare or unusual characteristics or exceptional human interest value(s). Sites may have national or regional importance for interpreting prehistory; may be rare and represent an area where a culture or cultural period was first identified and described; may have been used concurrently by two or more cultural groups; or may have been used by cultural groups for rare or sacred purposes.

The recollections of Native elders from bands living in widely spread mountain valleys tell of use of high elevation areas by their ancestors, where they hunted mountain goats and marmots, gathered berries and roots, and collected medicinal plants. However, detailed information on traditional use areas in the North Cascades was never recorded as indigenous knowledge disappeared during the rapid population decline that characterized the early contact period. The story of precontact indigenous use of the North Cascades has, until recently, remained relatively unknown and unacknowledged by those who study the Northwest Coast and Plateau culture areas. In the last few decades, archeological research in the Cascades has revealed a variety of ancient cultural resources in the mountainous interior and disconfirms any notions that Native American people and their ancestors made little if any use of the Cascade Mountain interior. The pre-contact archeological sites in the Stehekin Valley provide new and significant information that tell much of the story that history does not record.

The NPS initiated systematic archeological studies of its Pacific Northwest park units in the early 1980's. Though only 5% of the total 684,000 acres of the Park Complex had been surveyed as of 1999, 250 pre-contact archeological sites had been inventoried. These sites are found in all environmental and elevational zones of the Park Complex, from the densely forested valley bottoms to alpine tundra. Overall, the combined inventory of artifacts and features indicates extensive use of mountain landscapes for hunting, gathering and fishing purposes, including the processing, cooking and working of a wide variety of local flora and

9 Prehistoric resources are associated with Native Americans and date before the time of contact with European settlers (AD 1850). Information about these resources are recovered primarily through archaeological investigations.

14 fauna. Ongoing archeological inventories continue to discover unrecorded sites, many of which reveal new information about the past indigenous presence in the North Cascades.

Based on radiocarbon dated archeological sites, the lands in today’s Park Complex were occupied by human groups for at least the last 8,400 years. Though they offer less certainty than the radiocarbon dates, distinctive styles of a few spear points, including some known as Clovis points, suggest that humans may have utilized the North Cascades for at least the last 10,000 years. It is probable that these early people were the ancestors of today’s Coast Salish and Interior Salish-speaking peoples, particularly the various bands of today’s Skagit, Nooksack, Stolo (Chilliwack band), Nlakapamux (Lower Thompson), and Colville Tribes (the latter representing Chelan, Methow, Entiat and Wenatchee bands).

The Stehekin River drainage is within the traditional territory of the Chelan people. The Chelan bands at the time of contact practiced a semi-sedentary lifestyle, with their winter villages located along the lower section of Lake Chelan and the Columbia River. The Stehekin Valley was geographically removed from their traditional population centers and was only seasonally the focus of activity. There has been no evidence found, so far, to suggest these people made their homes permanently along the Stehekin River or its tributaries. Remnants of camps, however, have been found along the head of the lake that were used seasonally 600 years ago by relatively small groups of people. In the remains of a cooking hearth here, archeologists found a piece of red ochre, similar in color to the pigment used to paint the nearby Stehekin pictograph, an ancient rock art panel near the original mouth of the Stehekin River. Sites in the lower valley tend to cluster in the “warm” unshaded parts of the valley, where there was minimum exposure to avalanche slopes and flood-prone river segments.

There is substantial evidence for indigenous use of the valley for hunting, fishing and gathering of edible roots and berries. Symmetrically shaped stone pestles, used for pounding biscuitroot into flour, were found in the lower Stehekin Valley and at the Courtney Ranch. Flake tools and unmodified flakes dating 3,000 years ago or older have been found at the Bridge Creek site. A recent archeological investigation in the valley, immediately adjacent to the Stehekin River, has revealed a 3,000 year old campsite. Among the activities that took place here, it appears that wood was intentionally procured and prepared for some as yet unknown purpose. Charred branches identified as Douglas-fir were found within a cooking hearth and were radiocarbon dated to 1,410 years old; inside the hearth were the charred remains of animal bones cooked for food. The most recent date of the campsite came from a piece of split board of the yellow pine group, which dated 450 years old. Elsewhere in the valley, an abundance of flaked stone artifacts mark the locations of hunting and resource processing areas and the temporary travel camps used by the various groups. These prehistoric sites provide some clues into the lives and activities of the Native Americans who resided in or in proximity of the Stehekin River watershed and greatly contribute to the understanding of Native American mountain adaptations.

The word “Stehekin” is a Skagit word, which roughly means “the way we crossed through.” Because Cascade Pass is one of the few low passes in the North Cascades Range, it was

15 frequently used by several indigenous groups as an important travel and trade route. Several trails along the Stehekin River and its tributaries were followed to access the pass by the Chelan and other nearby Plateau peoples. The same is true for the Skagit bands coming over from the west. This route served an intertribal bartering network, which brought the tribes of the central and southern plateaus into direct contact with coastal groups. The eastern tribes traded items such as buckskin, mountain sheep wool, and dried bitterroot for the western tribes’ clamshell beads, dried salmon and salmon eggs, and dried huckleberries. This trade route also allowed the sharing of culture and knowledge as well as goods and intermarriage between the distant groups. The use of the Stehekin Valley as part of an east-west trade route is unique to this watershed in the Cascades and suggests that some Northwest Coast and Plateau peoples were more mountain-adapted than had heretofore been acknowledged.

Conclusion

The abundance and importance of the prehistoric resources found in the Stehekin Valley – and therir potential contribution – for education qualify as an outstandingly remarkable resource under the Act. The use of the Stehekin Valley as a unique east-west trade route further strengthens the determination that prehistoric resources are a remarkable value.

Historic Resources10

The USFS/BLM criteria:

The river or area within the river corridor contains a site(s) or feature(s) associated with a significant event, an important person, or a cultural activity of the past that was rare, unusual, or one-of-a-kind in the region. An historic site(s) and/or feature(s) in most cases is 50 years or older.

The cultural activities significant to the Stehekin Valley’s history include exploration, settlement, commercial development, federal management, and recreation. These activities are reflected in numerous log cabins, shelters, lookouts, mines, hostelries and other structures built in response to human needs. The Park Complex’s historic resources have survived largely intact, and still convey the same qualities and associations today that they did historically. Many of these structures are located at one of the three Historic Districts within the Stehekin watershed and are listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

Explorers and fur traders seeking faster and easier overland trade routes between the navigable waters of Puget Sound and the interior of the Oregon Country were the earliest Euro-Americans to penetrate the Stehekin Valley. Alexander Ross of the Pacific (later North West) Fur Company was the first explorer to attempt to cross the Cascades in 1814, following an Indian trading trail through the upper Stehekin drainage. From 1857 to 1858, prospectors

10 Historic resources date after AD 1850 and are more than fifty years old.

16 used the Stehekin Valley as a short-cut from the Snake River to the Fraser River gold rush. In 1882, the United States Army commissioned Lieutenant Henry Pierce in to obtain information of the virtually unexplored land of the North Cascades, and his route took him through the Stehekin Valley. He concluded that the route had no military use, but his descriptions of abundant quantities of quartz and gold later helped lure miners to the area.

Natural resources were the reason behind the first Euro-American settlements of the region. Beginning in the 1880's, prospectors arrived to try and make their fortunes from the land. Miners trickled into the Stehekin Valley on the old Indian trail over Cascade Pass and on other routes from the Skagit River mining district on the western slopes of the Cascades. Stehekin became a busy lakeport for miners’ supplies, which were ferried uplake from Chelan. At the peak of the rush in the late 1890's, hundreds of prospectors were searching for ore in the mountains above the valley. Roughly 25 miles up-valley from Stehekin, the Black Warrior and Upper Horseshoe Basin Mines showed the greatest promise for production of quartz containing galena and silver. A wagon road was constructed up the lower ten miles of the Stehekin Valley, and a rough trail covered the remaining distance. Mining settlements sprang up in the valley. A bustling tent community with a post office and hotel was established at Bridge Creek, with a population estimated around 150. The discovered ore, however, was low grade and ore transport from these remote mines was expense and difficult. Only a handful of individuals were successful; most were transient and stayed only on a seasonal basis.

During this time period entrepreneurs came to provide services for the miners; still others came with intentions of homesteading. Those who stayed found suitable land in the lower Stehekin River Valley. Lands opened to homesteading, and by the mid 1890's the lower valley was dotted with rough log structures. In 1910, Stehekin could claim a permanent population of 13 people. Trapping, logging, agriculture and hydroelectric production were all undertaken. The Buckner family, for example, dug the irrigation ditch for their apple orchard in the spring of 1911. While many of these enterprises were successful for a time and spurred growth and development in the region, most were unsuccessful due to the area’s inhospitable character. The lack of easy routes to and from the mountains, the distance from supply centers, and the unpredictable weather were all significant obstacles difficult to overcome.

These same qualities – inaccessibility, ruggedness, remoteness, extremes of climate – lured others to the Stehekin Valley who had a desire to explore the outdoors and to recreate. Beginning in the late 19th century, people began to travel to the area for these pursuits. A simple lodge, an elegant hotel, and log shelters built by the USFS for camping were the first few conveniences available. In its heyday, the Field Hotel, located at the mouth of the Stehekin River, was filled to capacity throughout the summer season with wealthy scenery buffs, health seekers, painters, alpinists, and people seeking glamour and parties. Its owner, M.E. Field, successfully applied for establishment of a post office at Stehekin, and as a state representative introduced the bill which created Chelan County. When the dam built at Chelan Falls raised Lake Chelan by 21 feet, the hotel was torn down.

17 During the Great Depression and World War II, tourist trade was nonexistent in the Stehekin Valley. In the early 1940's, tourists began to come uplake again as gas rationing ended, and people began to have extra money and time for recreation and leisure. New businesses and lodges began to cater to this different kind of tourist, who came for more rustic experiences than the tourists of the early part of the century. Electricity was brought to the valley in 1963, and with it many of the conveniences and frustrations of modern society.

The three Historic Districts located in the Stehekin watershed help tell the stories of this region of the North Cascades. Buckner Homestead Historic District, located on a horseshoe bend of the Stehekin River, represents one of the earliest homesteads in the Stehekin Valley and incorporates the largest group of structures relating to the theme of early settlement in the area. Spanning six decades, from 1889 to the 1950's, the district is comprised of 15 buildings, landscape structures and ruins, and over 50 acres of land planted in orchard and crisscrossed by hand-dug irrigation ditches. Its evolution from a single cabin to an intricate complex of structures, paths, irrigation ditches, and fruit orchard contributes to understanding the settlement of this wilderness region. The orchards are one of the few remaining alpine valley commercial orchards, and they contain what is considered to be the only remaining common red delicious trees of the commercial genetic strain. It is also the last remaining example of the open bowl pruning technique. The NPS now uses the homestead as a means of interpreting the pioneer era in the Stehekin Valley.

The Golden West Lodge Historic District, which is situated at the head of Lake Chelan, consists of seven buildings constructed between 1926 and 1945. The lodge was briefly closed during WWII and reopened when travel restrictions and gas rationing were lifted. It was sold to the government when the NRA was established in 1968, and it is now used as a visitor center. It is significant on a local level for its associations with recreation and recreational developments in the North Cascades between 1926 and WWII, and it also represents the only extant example of a large-scale resort development in the North Cascades.

The High Bridge Ranger Station Historic District is comprised of four structures built in 1933 and 1934. They served as a USFS backcountry ranger station in the upper Stehekin River Valley, particularly in summer months by trail building and firefighting crews. It is significant on a local level for its association with the government in the North Cascades, and as an example of a distinct type of architecture from the 1930's. The district represents the only intact and unaltered USFS station in the Park Complex.

Structures listed in the National Register of Historic Places that are not located at any of the three Historical Districts include Bridge Creek Shelter, Bridge Creek Cabin/Ranger Station, Courtney Log Cabin, and Black Warrior Mine. Bridge Creek Shelter was built by the Civilian Conservation Corp. It is an example of a 1930's era United States Department of Agriculture designed backcountry shelter, and it reflects the USFS design ethic of utilizing natural/native materials and siting structures. Bridge Creek Cabin/Ranger Station, which was built prior to 1926, is associated with the Bridge Creek mining district and it is one of two early mining cabins that remain in the Stehekin Valley. Its board and batten wood-frame construction is

18 also an example of a distinct type and method of building. The Courtney Log Cabin construction is set on a rock-and-earth foundation and was built sometime in the 1880's to 1890's. It is an example of a distinct early settlement structure as well. The Black Warrior Mine, located in the lower Horseshoe Basin near the Stehekin River headwaters, is an impressive opening in the hard rock of the North Cascades. It has retained structural members of two “rooms” located immediately inside the entrance, and iron tracks for ore carts can still be followed hundreds of feet inside the mountain. Mining operations occurred from 1918 to 1951, when the base camp was hit by an avalanche and work was ceased permanently. The importance of this historical site stems from its involvement in commercial development and early expansion.

Conclusion

Because of the number of sites listed on the National Register of Historic Places, as well as the additional number of sites which are eligible for nomination, the historic resources associated with the Stehekin River are determined to be of outstandingly remarkable value.

Geology

The criteria used by the USFS/BLM include:

The river or the area within the river corridor contains an example(s) of a geologic feature, process, or phenomena that is rare, unusual, or unique to the region of comparison. The feature(s) may be in an unusually active stage of development, represent a “textbook” example, and /or represent a unique or rare combination of geologic features (erosional, volcanic, glacial, and other geologic structures.)

The history of the Stehekin watershed begins between 150 and 90 million years ago, when the rocks that compose it were accreted to North America’s western coast by the tectonic process of plate subduction. These rocks began as a volcanic island arc and deep-water ocean floor sediment layers of mud and silt, which were later metamorphosed during the late Cretaceous period into gray and dark gray schists and gneisses. Uplifting occurred during this time period as well, and great tilted masses of rock began to be pushed upward by tectonic activity. The exposed rocks seen within the drainage are these structurally complex igneous and metamorphic rocks. Commonly seen rocks have prominent light and dark bands, which are dark diorite gneiss with veins of white granite. A period of mountain building that began 90 million years ago and spanned 50 million years created the northwest-southeast orientation of the Stehekin Valley, which is similar to other drainage systems in the North Cascades.

Of special note, State Creek, found in the north most part of the watershed, includes Golden Horn granite, which was formed approximately 45-50 million years ago as plumes of granite magma rose into the deforming crust. The Golden Horn is the only batholith that is mineralogically a true granite in the North Cascades. Over time, this granite was carved into

19 spectacular peaks and spires. Their distinctive pinnacled ridges are due to cracks and fractures in the rock, which occurred as the granite cooled and crystallized. Rare minerals have been found in this batholith.

Ice age glaciers left a legacy of jagged peaks, deep valleys, and craggy skyline profiles throughout the Northern Cascades. Two types of glaciers are known to have been active in the this area: a continental glacier that originated in Canada known as the Cordilleran Ice Sheet and alpine glaciers that grew from local mountains during the Pleistocene period. Evidence of glacial activity is apparent throughout the Stehekin watershed. The river valley is straighter, deeper and more rounded due to the actions of both types of glaciers. Alpine glaciers cut headwater areas into horns, aretes and cirques and shaped the valleys into steep- sided, straight, flat-floored troughs. The thicker Cordilleran Ice Sheet flowed into the Stehekin Valley down Bridge Creek, perhaps reaching as far as Manson. The Stehekin Valley clearly shows glacial gouging on a large scale, where smaller particles embedded in the ice polished the bedrock surfaces as they moved across, and the larger pieces cut deep grooves or “gouges” into the bedrock as well.

Though they now only contain remnants of what was, the North Cascades are the most densely glaciated mountains in the contiguous United States. Approximately 90 glaciers continue to thrive in the headwaters of the Stehekin watershed along the Pacific Crest of the Cascade Range; they cover approximately 3% of the total watershed. The largest of these is the 1.8 square-mile Chickamin Glacier in Agnes Creek. Glaciers continue to grind, sculpt and reshape the landscape, which influences vegetation growth and adds minerals to the ecosystem. These glaciers store large amounts of glacial and snowpack meltwater and account for 6-15% of the water entering the tributaries of the Stehekin River in the summer months, when streamflow would otherwise be low. Glacial meltwater is often cloudy due to the sediment suspended in the water and may give the river a greenish color that is distinctive of water originating from glaciers.

Intense erosion by these glaciers, as well as by the river and its tributaries and slope processes, has created the spectacular relief of the Stehekin River Valley. Relief within the watershed varies from a high of 9,511 feet above sea level on Bonanza Peak, to a low of 350 feet below sea level in the depths of Lake Chelan. Most of this variation occurs within five miles horizontally and creates some of the steepest, most rugged topography in the lower 48 states.

The major tributaries to the Stehekin River include Bridge Creek, Agnes Creek, Company Creek, Rainbow Creek, and Boulder Creek. Some of these, such as Rainbow Creek, enter the Stehekin via hanging valleys, creating spectacular waterfalls. Others, including Agnes Creek and Bridge Creek, enter through large, deep, bedrock box canyons.

Because its headwaters are farther to the west than other east-draining streams, the Stehekin River exhibits stream-draining characteristics typical of both sides of the Pacific Crest. As a result, this river is particularly prone to flooding at several times of the year, and the flood history of the Stehekin is fairly unique to this region of the United States. Like streams

20 draining the west slope of the Cascades, the Stehekin experiences late-fall and early winter rain on snow floods. These floods usually have large peak discharges and short durations. The largest flood on record for the Stehekin River was occurred on November 29, 1995, with a discharge of 22,000 cubic feet per second. Like most streams on the east side of the Cascades, the Stehekin also has large spring snowmelt events. These floods have longer durations, but generally lower peak discharges than rain on snow floods. They can be particularly large and destructive when heavy winter snow-packs persist into late May and June, and snowmelt occurs rapidly due to warm rain and higher temperatures. Large spring floods have occurred in 1997 and 1999 due to record, late-melting snow-packs. These frequent floods can cause substantial erosion and alter the river’s course, which may have consequences for vegetation, wildlife and humans.

Conclusion

The geologic resources of the Stehekin drainage provide excellent textbook examples of glacial features and processes, such as glaciers and ice fields, cirques and spires, hanging valleys and bedrock box canyons. They also contribute substantially to the river’s scenic qualities, our understanding of prehistoric use, and to the diversity and distribution of its plant and animal communities. One unique feature found in the watershed is the Golden Horn batholith, which is the only true granite found in the North Cascades. For these reasons, the geology of the Stehekin Valley was found to be a remarkable value.

Scenic Resources

Under USFS and BLM guidelines, the criteria for an outstandingly remarkable rating are:

The landscape elements of landform, vegetation, water, color, and related factors result in notable or exemplary visual features and/or attractions within the geographic region. When analyzing scenic values, additional factors such as seasonal variations in vegetation, scale of cultural modifications, and the length of time negative intrusions are viewed may be considered. Scenery and visual attractions may be highly diverse over the majority of the river or river segment length and not common to other rivers in the geographic region.

Henry Custer, a surveyor for the commission created to establish the international boundary along the forty-ninth parallel, was the first to write about the North Cascades in 1859:

“I leave it to a better pen to describe the sublimity of true Mountain scenery in the Cascade Mts . . . it can not be described. Nowhere do the Mountain masses and peaks present such strange, fantastic, dauntless, and startling outlines as here. Whoever wishes to see Nature in all its primitive glory and grandeur, in its almost feroci[o]us wildness, must go and visit these Mountain regions.”

21 Visitors can still travel to the Stehekin Valley to experience the scenic beauty and wonder of the North Cascades that Custer witnessed over a hundred years ago. Due to its remoteness, the Stehekin Valley has undergone very little disruptive human activity, such as timber harvest, mining, or urban development. This has allowed the watershed to retain the beauty of a natural landscape, which has often been diminished or lost in other areas.

Most signs of human activity and construction, including houses, roads, and trails, are located along the lower 11 miles of the river’s length. Many of these constructions are from a much earlier time period, and enhance the landscape rather than detract from it. The rustic qualities of the old school house and the Courtney log cabin, for example, blend with and their surroundings and added character and interest. Visiting the Buckner Orchards provides a sense of tranquility while walking along the small water diversion or through the orchard itself, looking for a perfect apple. Other constructions located in the lower valley, such as the Stehekin Valley Road, numerous campsites, and residential homes, are often only visible from the river as a brief glimpse because of the lush riparian vegetation, and also do not detract from the scenic qualities of the area.

Throughout the valley, visitors have breathtaking and varied views in all directions. The past glacial events helped sculpt the surrounding rugged and jagged mountains, which are snow- capped throughout much of the year, as well as the many varied landforms of hanging valleys, cirques and horns. The permanent ice fields and glaciers found in the upper portions of the watershed are also dramatic accents to the landscape, especially when viewed on a hot summer day. The river is extraordinary in all of its states – whether it is crashing down from a cliff as a waterfall, churning as rapids through a narrow channel sharply cutting through the gneiss, or moving slowly to form a pool along a tributary. The river’s clarity enhances its beauty, and often it is a striking shade of green in the late summer months due to contributions of glacial snowmelt. The vegetation found in the valley also greatly adds to the grandeur of the surroundings. Tall stands of ponderosa pine, dense Douglas-fir, and the more sparse groves of lodgepole pine give a sense of peace as well as capture the eye. Wildflowers and flowering shrubs are abundant most of the year and add color and variety to the forests and alpine areas. Wildlife also adds to the beauty of the scene, such as the gracefulness of a deer as it slowly crosses a meadow or a hawk in flight.

Seasonal changes contribute to the ever transforming scenic character of the watershed. The alpine meadows are particularly dramatic when their slopes are covered with the blooms of wildflowers. Deciduous trees and shrubs, such as larch and vine maple, also contribute brilliant bursts of red and yellow to the landscape in the fall. Snow adds a blanket of white that starkly contrasts with the mountains’ dark gray shades of gneiss in the winter.

Another exceptional aesthetic quality of the watershed is the peacefulness and tranquility it holds. Because of the isolation of the area, the number of visitors at any given time is low. It is therefore possible to spend a day hiking, fishing, or simply enjoying nature without encountering another person or the noise of humanity. It also gives one a chance to slow

22 down and take time to appreciate the surrounding beauty with all of one’s senses. This allows the visitor to enjoy all the varied sounds of nature, such as wind through the trees, the crash of the river against its banks, the songs of birds; sounds that elsewhere are often masked by the noise of traffic and crowds. The scents of the forest, such as the tangy scent of pine or the faint perfume of a wildflower, can also be appreciated when one is taking the day at a slower pace. Simple experiences that can be found here – the chill of a mountain stream or the taste of a freshly picked berry – can also increase one’s aesthetic experience of the watershed.

Conclusion

While subjective, because of its exceptional natural landscape, the variety and visually pleasing geological and biological features, and the serene setting, there is no doubt that scenery is an outstandingly remarkable resource as defined under the Act.

Recreation

In order to be considered an “outstandingly remarkable value,” the recreational resource of a river must meet one of the following:

Recreational opportunities are, or have the potential to be, unique enough to attract visitors from outside of the geographic region. Visitors would be willing to travel long distances to use the river resources for recreational purposes. River-related opportunities could include, but not be limited to, sightseeing, wildlife observation, photography, hiking, fishing, hunting and boating.

Interpretive opportunities may be exceptional and attract, or have the potential to attract, visitors from outside the geographic region.

The river may provide, or have the potential to provide, settings for national or regional usage or competitive events.

The North Cascades Scenic Highway and the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail both cross portions of the Stehekin River and/or its tributaries, which allow hundreds of thousands of people from all over the world to visit the area. A 1985 study found that over 45,000 visitors came to the Stehekin Valley Visitor Center in one season. Sixty-three percent of these visitors were from Washington, primarily from the Seattle and Spokane areas. Twelve percent traveled from neighboring states, including Oregon, California, and Idaho.

People come to the Stehekin watershed for the wide-range of exceptional recreational activities it offers, as well as for the opportunity to experience the majesty of the North Cascades. Because of the number of seasonal visitors that come to the Stehekin Valley, the Park Complex employs a large interpretive staff in these months. This very knowledgeable and personable staff greatly add to the enjoyment of visiting the area and offer a number of nature walks and

23 evening talks to help people learn more about the resources of the valley and the North Cascades.

With a national park, a national recreation area, two wilderness areas, rugged mountains, active glaciers, and a high alpine river crashing and flowing down to a lake, the Stehekin watershed has many recreational opportunities. The major recreational activities pursued here include whitewater boating, fishing, sightseeing, photography, hiking and camping. Additional activities consist of hunting, picnicking, wildlife observation, horseback riding, bicycling, cross-country skiing, and hunting.

Much of the recreational use occurs in the lower 11 miles of the river, which are part of the NRA. This includes boat launches and well-surfaced trails for horseback riding and bicycling. Virtually all of the remaining portions of the watershed are managed either as a national park, which allows semi-primitive recreational opportunities with emphasis on fishing, camping, hiking, and other compatible uses, or as wilderness, which contains no roads or developments and foot travel is the only allowed method of transportation.

Whitewater Rafting

The lower 11 miles of the Stehekin River is raftable, and like all rivers, it is changeable with the seasons. It is a fast, exciting, Class III11 trip in the spring when the water is high, and it is considered to be a Class III. Towards the end of August, the river is usually low and is generally Class II. The first half of this portion of the river contains the most holes and swirls characteristic of whitewater. The second half of the trip is much smoother, and though it may not be as exhilarating as the first half, it is very scenic. The Tumwater section on the upper river is Class V or VI depending on water level. Above this section, only kayaking occurs due to the rugged nature of access and narrow passage for larger boats. There are approximately a dozen private trips a year and one commercial company that runs daily trips from mid-June to mid-August. Trip length is approximately two to three hours.

Other Recreational Boating

Kayaking and canoeing are both limited due to limited access. Because there is no road access to Stehekin, equipment must be transported by ferry or private plane, which is both cumbersome and expensive. Perhaps a dozen private parties kayak the Stehekin each year, primarily the lower 11 miles. A short section beginning at High Bridge is a Class III run that contains holes for kayakers to “surf.” The lower section from mile ten to mile four descends quickly and offers the best whitewater.

11 ‘Classes’ refer to the International Scale of Difficulty with Class I being the smallest of waves and Class VI being virtually impossible to boat and extremely dangerous.

24 Fishing

The Stehekin watershed contains several lakes and over 150 miles of streams that are teeming with fish, particularly rainbow trout and kokanee salmon. These lakes and rivers contain exceptional fishing spots where one can experience both solitude and beautiful scenery. Opportunities for cutthroat trout fishing exist as well, primarily in the upper portions of the drainage system. High water levels and glacial rocks, however, may make both access and wading difficult. August and September often offer the best fishing opportunities due to lower water levels, and chinook and sockeye salmon run in September and October.

Hunting

Hunting is restricted in the Stehekin watershed to the NRA and the Wenatchee National Forest. The primary game animals include black bear, mule deer, and white-tail deer. Elk, moose and waterfowl are hunted on very rare occasions.

Hiking

The numerous trails throughout the Stehekin drainage give hikers of all experience levels the opportunity to discover the resource values of the region. The Stehekin River Trail, for example, is an easy hike along the river where people can enjoy bird watching, fishing, admire the lush riparian vegetation, and explore the Buckner Orchard Historic District. Rainbow Loop, which is considered a moderately difficult hike, gives hikers the chance to view Rainbow Falls and appreciate the beauty of the Stehekin River Valley from the overlooking bluffs. Several of the tributaries have major established trails, including Park Creek, Bridge Creek, Agnes Creek, and Flat Creek. Each offers unique opportunities to experience the dramatic geology, diverse forest types, and wildlife found within the watershed. Hiking to Cascades Pass allows one to get a deep sense of history, as a hiker walks the same passage used by Native Americans and later by miners and trappers. Hikers of this trail experience a change of vegetation from coniferous forests to alpine ecosystems, as well as the glacial features of the valley. Many other trails also exist for exploring and discovering all the exceptional features of this watershed.

Camping

The remote Stehekin Valley and its tributaries offer campers a semi-primitive to primitive experience. The opportunity for isolation from the sights and sounds of people is a characteristic feature that recreationalists enjoy about the area. Shuttle service is available for several designated campgrounds that are located within a few hundred feet of the river, including High Bridge, Tumwater, Harlequin, Dolly Varden, Shady and Bridge Creek. Many other designated campsites along the Stehekin River and its tributaries, such as Cottonwood, Pelton Creek, and Basin Creek, may be reached by hiking or horseback.

25 Conclusion

Visitors come from all over the world to visit the Park Complex. While the river itself is usually not the sole focus of their travels, there is little doubt that it adds significantly to the recreational experience and the spectrum of opportunities. As noted in other sections, the opportunity for and existence of interpretation of the natural and cultural resources associated with the river is nationally and regionally significant. Given the importance of the Stehekin River in the breadth and value of recreational opportunities in the NRA, recreation is an outstandingly remarkable value.

Other Exceptional Values

While the categories of resources considered above are specifically mentioned in the Act, Congress realized that individual rivers may have unique resources that are of interest and importance to the public and so should be protected under the Act. It is up to the study team what, if any, of these “other similar values” exist. According to the USFS and the BLM:

While no specific national evaluation guidelines have been developed for the “other similar values” category, assessments of additional river-related values consistent with the foregoing guidance will be completed – including, but not limited to, hydrologic, paleontologic, ecologic and botanic resources.

In addition to the seven resource categories summarized above that are considered to be nationally or regionally significant, and therefore qualify the Stehekin River for the National System, the river has another resource of note.

Vegetation/Botany

The Stehekin River travels 29 miles from its headwaters high in the glaciated mountains near Cascade Pass before it empties into Lake Chelan. The river experiences an elevation drop of 4,300 feet from its source to its mouth, and this strong vertical relief creates a steep gradient in many environmental factors, including temperature, rainfall, snowfall and length of growing season. This results in a large number of differing microclimates between the valley floor and ridge crests that support a high diversity of plant and animal communities. Disturbances, such as fire, floods, avalanches and insect outbreaks also contribute to the variety of plant communities and habitat. Because of the diverse microclimates in the Stehekin watershed, six distinct forest types are found there.

At the low elevations near Lake Chelan, high shrub and lowland grass are the dominant plant cover types. High shrub consists mostly of willows and alders, and is seen mainly along the banks of the river and its tributaries. The lowland grass cover type includes herbaceous- dominated vegetation, such as highbush cranberry, Oregon grape, bitter cherry,and ocean

26 spray, as well as a variety of grass species which are primarily found in areas of recent disturbance.

High shrub and lowland grass are replaced by the ponderosa pine community at higher elevations, starting roughly at 1,300 feet. Low moisture conditions and the sandy, poorly developed soils often found at this elevation allow ponderosa pine to be the dominant overstory species. Big-leaf maple is common in the canopy as well, and bluebunch wheatgrass is a frequent component of the understory. The canopy is fairly open, and the overstory trees are well-spaced due to competition for water resources.

The Douglas-fir cover type becomes dominate at moister sites with better soil conditions, beginning somewhere around 1,700 feet. Ponderosa pine is still a component of this canopy. Understory species include salmonberry, devil’s club, sword fern, salal, red huckleberry, snowberry, kinnikinnick, and prince’s pine. The canopy of this cover type may be open or closed, depending on the amount of water each individual site receives.

Around 3,000 feet, the Douglas-fir cover type gives way to the subalpine fir zone, an area characterized by coolness and moisture. Dominant overstory species in this community include subalpine fir, Englemann spruce, western hemlock, and lodgepole pine. Several of these species are characterized by cold-resistant seeds and saplings that can survive in poorly developed, acidic soils. Commonly found understory species include subalpine larch, whitebark pine, blueberry and huckleberry, mountain lover, and mountain heather. Canopy cover for this zone may be open or closed as well due to water availability to the individual stands.

The whitebark pine/subalpine larch cover type are the timberline forest component, which begins at approximately 4,500 feet. Mountain juniper, Oregon boxwood, pink-mountain heather, white-mountain heather, and partridgefoot are the common understory species seen in this zone. Because of less favorable conditions, trees are often stunted and may form bushy thickets.

High elevation herb communities and heather meadows are found along the upper reaches of the watershed. These non-coniferous cover types include a wide range of plant communities. Common species are yellow heather, American bistort, and sticky arnica.

The presence of threatened and endangered plants in the study area is not well documented at the present time (see page 13). The Stehekin watershed does contain suitable habitat, however, for several plant species of special concern. One orchid that is state and federally listed as threatened and might be found in the study area is the Ute ladies-tresses (Spiranthes diluvialis). This orchid occurs in wetland and riparian habitats, primarily in the transitional areas as the mountainous terrain flattens out into prairies or other lowlands. Several species listed federally as species of concern may also exist in the study area. Seely’s silene (Silene seelyi), a purple flowering plant that often forms mats close to the ground, is found in sagebrush and pine cover types up to the high eastern slopes of the Wenatchee Mountains and

27 possibly nearby areas such as the Stehekin Valley. It is designated by the state as a threatened species. The Wenatchee larkspur (Delphinium viridescens), is another plant known to inhabit the Wenatchee Mountains, and perhaps also in adjacent regions. This state threatened larkspur relies on boggy meadows for its habitat. Potentially found in the upper elevations of the Stehekin watershed’s ponderosa pine forests is the clustered ladyslipper (Cypripedium fasciculatum), which is an orchid-like flower characterized by green-brown petals with purple veining. It is also state listed as threatened. The white milk-vetch (Astragulus sinuatus) is found on rocky hillsides from 800 to 1,200 feet in the sagebrush/bluebunch wheatgrass cover type, and its current known range is less than ten square miles. It is state listed as endangered. Two-spiked moonwort (Botrychium paradoxum) is a small fern, from one to six inches tall, that is found primarily in disturbed areas of the subalpine fir zone, and is a state sensitive species.

Three plants state listed as sensitive by the Washington Natural Heritage Database were identified in the Stehekin watershed by a 1998 survey. Spring beauty (Claytonia lanceolata) is a low, succulent herb found in mountain meadows and open mountain woods. Few-flowered blue-eyed Mary (Collinsia sparsiflora), a blue-flowered plant, grows in rocky, grassy locations of sagebrush and ponderosa pine forests. Wheeler’s bluegrass (Poa nervosa) is a perennial grass once commonly found in open pine forests, but has declined primarily due to habitat conversion and development. The Washington Natural Heritage Database has also identified two sedge species, state status of sensitive, which may occur in the study area. Russet sedge (Carex saxatilis) and poor sedge (Carex magellanica) both rely on wetland areas for habitat.

Conclusion

While highly varied and unusually diverse for such a small area, the plant species, associations and communities are not sufficiently river-related and unusual enough to warrant consideration as an outstandingly remarkable resource. The one threatened plant species dependent on riparian areas is not proven to be present. However, the botany of the river and its surrounding landscape could be reconsidered as an outstandingly remarkable value as new information is gathered or generated through additional assessments.

Conclusion

The Stehekin River and its tributaries were found to possess several outstandingly remarkable values, including wildlife, fish, prehistoric, historic, geologic, scenic, and recreational resources. The vegetation of the drainage was also found to be exceptional, but not sufficiently unusual to warrant wild and scenic river eligibility. These outstanding resources and the finding that Stehekin River watershed is free-flowing, indicate that the Stehekin watershed is eligible for inclusion in the National System.

28 Outstandingly Remarkable Values Stehekin River, Washington

Resource Characteristics

High diversity of numerous game and nongame species; provides or potentially provides habitat for many species of special interest, including the northern spotted owl, peregrine falcon, bald eagle, osprey, northern goshawk, ferruginous hawk, harlequin duck, black tern, little willow Wildlife flycatcher, olive-sided flycatcher, western gray squirrel, five bat species, California bighorn sheep, grizzly bear, gray wolf, California wolverine, Pacific fisher, Canadian lynx, northern sagebrush lizard, tailed frog, Cascade frog, and the Columbia spotted frog.

Historic habitat for several species of special interest, including bull trout, Fish westslope cutthroat trout, and inland redband trout; potentially important for future bull trout restoration efforts.

Precontact archeological sites important for understanding how Native Americans and their ancestors made use of the Cascade interior; the use of Prehistoric the Stehekin Valley as part of an east-west trade route is unique to this watershed in the Cascades.

Numerous historical sites listed in the National Register of Historic Places, and several more sites that are eligible for nomination; Buckner Homestead is the only surviving intact homestead complex in the North Cascades, Historic Buckner Orchards contain the only remaining commercial genetic strain of the common red delicious apples and are the only remaining example of the open bowl pruning technique; Golden West Lodge is the only extant example of a large-scale resort development in the North Cascades.

Excellent textbook examples of glacial features and processes; Golden Horn Geology batholith is the only true granite found in the North Cascades and is a unique feature to the watershed.

Landscape is dominated by dramatic and glacially sculpted landforms; varied and diverse vegetation; highlighted by moving, exceptionally clear water; Scenic human impacts are few and unobtrusive, allowing the visitor to experience the grandeur of wilderness.

The North Cascades Scenic Highway and the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail bring a large numbers of visitors to the watershed; many recreational Recreation opportunities exist, including boating, fishing, sightseeing, photography, camping, and hiking.

29 CLASSIFICATION

After determining a river’s eligibility for inclusion in the National System, the river must be classified according to the category – wild, scenic, or recreational – that best fits each eligible segment. Classification is based on the degree of naturalness and extent of development of the river and its adjacent lands as they exist at the time of the study. The three classification categories for eligible rivers are defined in Section 2(b) of the Act as:

Wild river areas – Those rivers or sections of rivers that are free of impoundments and generally inaccessible except by trail, with watersheds or shorelines essentially primitive and waters unpolluted. These represent vestiges of primitive America.

Scenic river areas – Those rivers or sections of rivers that are free of impoundments, with shorelines or watersheds still largely undeveloped, but accessible in places by roads.

Recreational river areas – Those rivers or sections of rivers that are readily accessible by road or railroad, that may have some development along their shorelines, and that may have undergone some impoundment or diversion in the past.

A wild river would be an undeveloped river with limited access by trail. The existence of a few inconspicuous roads leading to the boundary of the river area at the time of study would not, however, necessarily bar wild river classification. To qualify for scenic classification, the river segment should not show substantial evidence of human activity. The portion of the watershed within the boundary of a scenic river may have some discernible existing development. A recreational classification would be appropriate in developed areas, such as where a river runs parallel to roads or railroads or where adjacent lands have agricultural, commercial, or other developments – provided that the waterway remains generally natural and riverine in appearance.

Elements of Classification and the Stehekin River

Water resource development, shoreline development, accessibility, and water quality are the criteria that are considered when determining classification. Each criterion is important, but their collective intent is more important. Although each classification permits existing development, the criteria do not imply that additional inconsistent development is permitted in the future. Developments that are compatible with designation would be allowed, provided they are carried out in an environmentally sound manner.

In providing a classification for the Stehekin watershed, the NPS chose to divide the Stehekin River into smaller units in order to consider different classifications for each. This is often done for rivers in the National System. For example, a river might be wild in its mountainous headwaters, scenic through multiple-use lands, and recreational in its more populous lower valley. Factors considered in deciding whether to classify the Stehekin River in its entirety or

30 to segment it included: 1) management strategies for administering the river area; 2) the effect of landownership patterns on management strategies; 3) the current levels of development and access along the river. The Stehekin drainage was divided into 4 segments:

Segment 1 – From Stehekin Landing to High Bridge, approximately 11 miles.

Segment 2 – From High Bridge to Cottonwood Campground, a distance of roughly 12 miles.

Segment 3 – From Cottonwood Campground to the river’s headwaters, approximately 6 miles.

Tributaries – For all of the Stehekin’s tributaries from Lake Chelan to High Bridge, the first quarter mile of each was evaluated separately from the rest of its length. This allowed separate and different classifications if higher levels of human use and development were found in these areas. The two exceptions are Company Creek, which has a small hydroelectric facility one-half mile upstream from its confluence with the Stehekin River, and Bridge Creek where is passes under the North Cascades Highway. Above High Bridge, the tributaries were considered for their entire length.

Water Resource Developments

There are currently no significant impoundments on the Stehekin River or its tributaries. Several areas in the lower portion of the watershed have bridge crossings, and the waterway has been modified in these locations by bridge abutments. A small hydroelectric project is located on Company Creek approximately one-half mile from the Stehekin River, which supplies power to the residents of the area. This concrete diversion structure spans the river, but it is obscured from view by the turbulence of the water rushing over it. A small intake structure is visible, and the penstock is mostly screened by its distance from the creek and the vegetation, except where the penstock and trail bridge cross the creek. A low head diversion dam, located on Rainbow Creek and adjacent to the road crossing, supplies water to the Buckner orchards. A flume diverts water away from this creek approximately 200 feet downstream. A privately owned diversion structure is found on Boulder Creek as well. Its wooden penstock follows the creek for approximately 100 feet, and it is for the most part not visible from the creek due to its location and the surrounding vegetation. The few docks and piers that are present in the area are located on the lake rather than on the river. There is some riprapping along the river in its lower reaches, but the extent is limited. While these water- related projects have led to some modifications of the waterway, the impacts are not significant, and the river essentially retains its natural character. There are no water resource developments above High Bridge.

31 Shoreline Development

The river is predominantly natural in appearance. The only areas of significant shoreline developments are located in the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area along the lower 10 miles of the river. Most of this development is limited to single family homes and a few small businesses. The Silver Bay Inn, for example, is visible from the river, as well as a portion of the historic Buckner Orchards. A cable traverses the river at this location, which was once used to transport apples to the other side of the river. An airstrip and gravel pit are located in the lower portion of the Stehekin Valley. They are not located directly along the river, however, and they are not visible from the waterway. Power lines cross the river at two locations, and a tram line once used by the United States Geological Survey at its gage station also spans the river. Disturbance has occurred in this area in the form of bank hardening, riprapping, and nonpoint organic pollutants, as well as in the removal of tress and gravel for building material. Away from roads and the small community of Stehekin, the evidence of human intrusion is slight, limited primarily to camp sites and trails.

Accessibility

Access to the Stehekin River is primarily by way of the small community of Stehekin, situated along the lower few miles of the river. It has no road connections to the rest of the world; visitors and residents arrive by passenger ferry, private boat, float plane, horseback, and on foot. The Stehekin Valley Road begins at the boat landing and runs roughly parallel to the river to Cottonwood Camp. Trails into large areas of wilderness branch off the valley road ascending to the rugged mountain landscape, often following one of the many tributaries feeding into the river. These trails are usually not visible from the river or its creeks due to their location and/or screening by vegetation. Most of the put-ins for rafts and kayaks are located along the lower 10 miles of the river, within the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area. In general, the Stehekin River is not easily accessible outside of the lower few miles of the Stehekin Valley, except for infrequent bridge crossings and recreational put-ins.

Water Quality

Water quality is factor only in considering a river or river segment for wild classification – the Act makes no mention of water quality regarding scenic and recreational classifications. It is generally, accepted, however, that water quality should at least be sufficient to provide for the outstanding resources of the river. This is in keeping with the goals of the Clean Water Act, which is to make all waters of the United States fishable and swimmable. However, rivers will not be precluded from scenic or recreational classification because of poor water quality at the time of their study, provided a water quality improvement plan exists or is being developed in compliance with applicable federal and state laws.

32 Though the Washington Department of Ecology monitors hundred of river and stream stations throughout the state, none are located in the Stehekin watershed. This may be due to the fact that the water quality is so high, especially in the upper reaches of the watershed, that there is no concern that requires monitoring. The many ways that a stream may become degraded or polluted, such as by filling and channeling, elimination of thermal cover, or disturbance by human or animal traffic, simply have not occurred in the upper reaches of the watershed. Because of this, the water quality in Segment 3 of the Stehekin River and the tributaries meets the criteria for a wild river classification. In the other segments, water quality is still very good, although some degradation may have occurred from such sources as organic pollutants and riverbank development. However, water quality is certainly sufficient to provide for the outstanding resources identified in early sections of this report.

Stehekin River Classification

The lowest ranking for each segment of any one of the four factors determines the highest possible classification for that segment. For example, if a river qualified as scenic for water resource development, water quality, and accessibility, but qualified only as recreational for shoreline development, the highest possible classification in the National System would be recreational.

Segment 1 – Lake Chelan to High Bridge

Segment 1 is within the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area. Numerous houses, small businesses, power line crossings, et cetera, while not intrusive, are not consistent with a scenic classification. There has also been some disturbance to the riverbank due to development activities. Access is relatively easy from both public and private property and from the road paralleling the river. Segment 1 should therefore be classified as recreational.

Segment 2 – High Bridge to Cottonwood Campground

Segment 2 contains very little development or human alterations. Most of what exists includes trails, campgrounds, and historical structures. It does, however, have a large dirt road that roughly parallels it for much of its length. Because of this, a classification of scenic is the most appropriate for this segment of the Stehekin River.

Segment 3 – Cottonwood Campground to the Headwaters

In segment 3, there are no water resource developments. There is very little evidence of human activity, except for a few designated camp sites, a couple of foot bridge crossings, and

33 glimpses of established trails. Access is quite limited, and only limited to a few select points along the river. The water is exceptionally clean and clear. This segment meets all the requirements needed for wild classification.

Tributaries

Because of higher levels of human presence and use, such as homes, campsites, and bank- stabilizing measures, the first one-quarter mile of all of the Stehekin’s tributaries from Lake Chelan to High Bridge were found to be recreational. The rest of the tributaries’ lengths, with the exception of two, were determined to be eligible for the wild river classification because of their unaltered and pristine character. The two exceptions include Company Creek, which has a small hydroelectric project located about one-half mile away from the river, and Bridge Creek, which was modified on its upper reaches by construction of the North Cascades Scenic Highway. Company Creek should be considered recreational for its first one-half mile, then wild for the rest of its length. Bridge Creek should be considered recreational for its first one- quarter mile, then wild for the rest of its length, with the exception of one-quarter mile on each side of the North Cascades Highway, where it should be considered recreational.

Conclusions

The following classifications apply to the Stehekin River and its tributaries. ‘Tributaries’ is defined as all orders of surface streams contributing to the Stehekin River.

• Stehekin River from Lake Chelan to High Bridge – recreational. • Stehekin River from High Bridge to Cottonwood Campground – scenic. • Stehekin River above Cottonwood Campground to its source – wild. • Tributaries, excluding Bridge Creek and Company Creek, from Lake Chelan to High Bridge for the first one-quarter mile from the confluence with the Stehekin River – recreational. • Tributaries, excluding Bridge Creek and Company Creek, from Lake Chelan to High Bridge above the first one-quarter mile – wild. • Tributaries above High Bridge – wild. • Bridge Creek for its first one-quarter mile from the confluence with the Stehekin River and for one-quarter mile on each side of the North Cascades Highway (one-half mile total surrounding the highway) – recreational. All other segments of Bridge Creek – wild. • Company Creek for the first one-half mile from its confluence with the Stehekin River – recreational. For the rest of its length – wild.

34 [Insert Classifications Map]

35 CONCLUSIONS

The river meets or exceeds all of the eligibility requirements for designation into the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System. It is free-flowing as defined by Departments of the Interior and Agriculture guidelines and possesses at least one outstandingly remarkable value; in fact, the Stehekin River possesses seven classes of resources found to be remarkable – wildlife, fish, prehistoric, historic, scenic, geologic and recreational.

For more accurate analysis of the Stehekin’s character, the river was divided into four segments. Segment 1 contains a moderate amount of shoreline development, and access to the river is readily available. Segment 2 has some human constructions visible from the river, mainly in the form of a dirt road, and this portion of the river is somewhat accessible. The shorelines of Segment 3 are primitive, its waters are pristine, and there is very little access. The evidence of human activity is present, but it is not the dominant feature of the landscape. The tributaries exhibit little signs of man’s intrusion beyond the first one-quarter mile, with the exception of Company Creek (hydroelectric facility at one-half mile) and Bridge Creek (culvert under the North Cascades Highway); apart from these small intrusions, these streams are virtually untouched. For all segments, water quality is sufficient to support the river corridor’s outstandingly remarkable values and/or a wild classification. Access, while available, is limited, and the river is natural in appearance. As a result, the NPS finds that all of the segments of the Stehekin drainage are eligible for the National System, with Segment 1 determined to be recreational, Segment 2 as scenic, and Segment 3 as wild. All of the second order tributaries from Lake Chelan to High Bridge are recreational for their first one-quarter mile, then wild for the rest of their length, with two exceptions: Company Creek should be considered recreational for its first one-half mile, then wild for the rest of its length; Bridge Creek should be considered recreational for its first one-quarter mile, then wild for the rest of its length, with the exception of one-quarter mile on each side of the North Cascades Highway, where it should be considered recreational. All tributaries above High Bridge qualify as wild.

36 37 Appendix A – Acronyms and Abbreviations

Act Wild and Scenic Rivers Act

BLM Bureau of Land Management

National System National Wild and Scenic Rivers System

NPS National Park Service

NRA National Recreation Area

Park Complex North Cascades National Park Complex consisting of Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, North Cascades National Park, and Ross Lake National Recreation Area

USFS United States Forest Service

38 Appendix B – Bibliography

Adams, Leroy. 1951. Illustrated Flora of the Pacific States. Stanford University Press, Stanford, California.

Agee, James K. and Jane Kertis. Forest types of the North Cascades National Park Complex. Can. J. Bot. 65:1520-1530.

Alt, David and Donald W. Hyndman. 1995. Northwest Exposures: A Geologic Story of the Northwest. Mountain Press Publishing Company, Missoula, Montana.

Brasher, Rex. 1961. Birds and Trees of North America. Rowman and Littlefield, New York, New York.

Ekman, Leonard C. 1962. Scenic Geology of the Pacific Northwest. Binfords & Mort, Portland, Oregon.

Easterbrook, Don J. and David A. Rahm. 1970. Landforms of Washington. Union Printing Company, Bellingham, Washington.

Oelfke, Jack and Rovert Kuntz. 1990. Harlequin Duck Surveys, Stehekin River, Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, Washington.

Mason, David T. 1985. Follow-up Study of Habitat Values of the Lower Stehekin River. Supplemental report to the National Park Service.

Matthews, Daniel. 1994. Cascade-Olympic Natural History. Raven Editions, Portland, Oregon.

Mierendorf, Robert R. 1986. People of the North Cascades. National Park Service report, Seattle, Washington.

Mierendorf, Robert R. 1998. An Updated Summary Statement of the Archeology of the North Cascades National Park Service Complex. National Park Service report, Sedro Woolley, Washington.

National Park Service. 1995. Lake Chelan Land Protection Plan. U.S. Department of the Interior plan, Denver, Colorado.

National Register of Historic Places

Rickett, Harold William. 1973. Wildflowers of the United States. McGraw-Hill Book Company, New York, New York.

39 Schwartz, Susan. 1976. Cascade Companion. Pacific Search Books, Seattle, Washington.

Smith, Allan H. 1987. Ethnography of the North Cascades. Center for Northwest Anthropology, Washington State University, Pullman, Washington.

Tabor, Rowland and Ralph Haugerud. 1999. Geology of the North Cascades. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington.

Udvardy, Miklos D. F. 1994. National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Birds. Alfred A. Knopf, New York, New York.

Washington Natural Heritage Program. 1997. Endangered, Threatened and Sensitive Vascular Plants of Washington with Working Lists of Rare Non-Vascular Species. Washington Department of Natural Resources, Olympia, Washington.

Yocom, Charles and Vinson Brown. 1971. Wildlife and Plants of the Cascades. Naturegraph Publishers, Healdsburg, California.

40 Appendix C – Report Preparation

Report Preparation

• Leslie Finlayson National Park Service, Seattle, Washington

Report Review & Contribution

• Phil Archibalb U.S. Forest Service, Wenatchee National Forest • Roger Christophersen National Park Service, North Cascades National Park • Reed Glesne National Park Service, North Cascades National Park • Dan Haas National Park Service, Boise, Idaho • Janet Kailin National Park Service, North Cascades National Park • Jesse Kennedy National Park Service, North Cascades National Park • Bob Kuntz National Park Service, North Cascades National Park • Malory Lenz U.S. Forest Service, Wenatchee National Forest • Bob Mierendorf National Park Service, North Cascades National Park • Al Murphy U.S. Forest Service, Wenatchee National Forest • Claudia Narcisco U.S. Forest Service, Wenatchee National Forest • Ed Pontbriand National Park Service, North Cascades National Park • Jon Riedel National Park Service, North Cascades National Park • Scott Stonemum National Park Service, North Cascades National Park • Lori Thorp U.S. Forest Service, Okanogan National Forest • Ann Wendland National Park Service, North Cascades National Park

Report Maps

• Emily McLuen National Park Service, Seattle, Washington

41