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Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road trips

INSIDE: Road Maps & Scenic Drives Planning Tips Points of Interest 2 Table of contents state’s scenic byways & Road trips Introduction 3 Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips has been made possible State Map Overview of Scenic Byways 4 through funding from the Federal Administration’s National Scenic Byways Program, Washington State Department of Transportation and All American Roads Washington State . Washington State department of commerce Scenic Byway 9 Director, Rogers Weed International Selkirk Loop 15 Washington State Tourism Executive Director, Marsha Massey National scenic Byways Marketing Manager, Betsy Gabel Product Development Manager, Michelle Campbell Coulee Corridor 21 Washington State Department of Transportation to Sound Greenway 25 Secretary of Transportation, Paula Hammond Director, Highways and Local Programs, Kathleen Davis Greenway 29 Scenic Byways Coordinator, Ed Spilker - Highway 112 33 Byway leaders and an interagency advisory group with representatives from the Scenic Byway 37 Washington State Department of Transportation, Washington State Department of , Washington State Department of & , Washington State Tourism, Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission and state scenic Byways Audubon Washington were also instrumental in the creation of this guide. Tribal Scenic Byway 40 Publishing services provided by Destination Media Alliance, LLC 425 N. 85th Street, , WA 98103 Cascade Loop 42 206-443-0445 ext. 103 Cascade Valleys 46 Managing Partners, Paul Heppner, Lisa Schwartz, Marcus Yearout Chuckanut Drive 48 Managing Editor, Susan Peterson Project Managers, Marcus Yearout, Michelle Campbell Gorge 50 Art Director, Jana Rekosh Contributing Writers, Tom Keogh, Anne Erickson Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway 52 Editorial Content Review, Carol Zahorsky Hidden Coast Scenic Byway 54 Cartography, Julia Martin Controller, April Morgan Lewis and Clark 56 Editorial copy appearing in this publication does not constitute an endorsement Mt. Baker Scenic Byway 60 of products or services by the State of Washington, the Washington State Tourism Office, Department of Commerce or Department of Transportation. North Scenic Highway 62 Information, including prices, dates and hours, should be verified. North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway 64 Okanogan 66 Coast Scenic Byway 68 Scenic Byway 72 top adventures legend Scenic Byway 74 Look for these symbols in each byway’s planning tips. Sherman Pass Scenic Byway 76 Spirit Lake Memorial Highway 78 Natural Beauty Indian Country Winter Sports Swiftwater Corridor 80 , Trekking and Wildlife, Whale Family Fun Climbing and Bird Watching Whidbey Scenic Isle Way 82 National and State Parks Photography Wine and Cuisine Scenic Byway 84 & Recreation Areas

Bicycling Arts, Culture Canyon 86 Mountain and and Heritage Volcanoes Boating, Canoeing, Resources 88 Island Experiences Kayaking and Rafting Festivals and Events

photoredits c : Cover (VIEW OF san juan ISLANDS from Area) Lakes, Rivers and Galleries and table of contents (top of mt. Si overlooking I-90), Deborah RIchardson; and PAGE 4 &5 (PALOUSE , south of pullman), PATRICK BENNETT; inside back cover (spring view oF Mt. St. helens), back cover (Scablands in north central Beaches Breweries washington), John Marshall mT. Rainier 8Lake Tipsoo, Chinook Pass Photo by BAUNTON ALL AMERICAN ROADS

Chinook Pass The Chinook Pass Scenic Byway runs from the rolling fields of Enumclaw west of the Cascades to the Naches Valley east of the range. Along the way, this two-lane pass wraps around the northeastern flank of iconic .

riving this byway will give you a first-hand Cascades will give way to the sparser tamaracks and Danswer to that ubiquitous Washington State ponderosa pines of ’s foothills. question, “Is the Mountain out?” But picture- At the byway’s end there are many rewards; miles of perfect glimpses of the second tallest peak in the horizon, abundant wildlife, farm stands filled with continental U.S. aren’t all this route has to offer. local produce and, usually, warm weather and blue This is a “boots-on” byway that presents every eastern Washington skies. opportunity to step out of the into dense forests, Before you jump in your car and head out, alongside rollicking rivers and onto remember a portion of this route is a seasonally . It seems there is a new microclimate every restricted road—plan your trip between late May other mile, so bring along extra layers of clothes, a and late November. solid pair of shoes, and don’t forget your camera. At the start of the byway, 14,410-foot-tall Mount Enumclaw Rainier steals the scene and challenges the sky. The city of Enumclaw, set between plateau Pause in Rainier’s foothills to explore an old-growth farmlands and the Cascade Mountains, is forest or snowshoe a placid path. As you east, sometimes referred to as the “gateway to Mount rushing water seems your constant companion, Rainier National Park,” although the folks over in as this road follows routes carved by the White, Elbe and Ashford may disagree. Greenwater, American and Naches rivers long ago. Spend a little time in town, relax and get ready Finally, the dense forests of the western to explore this nature-rich byway. The downtown PHOTO: BRETT BAUNTON

WASHINGTON STATE’S SCENIC BYWAYS & ROAD TRIPS 9 Experience Washington’s Scenic Byways

he 28 scenic byways in this guide will lead you into ’s lush coastal rain forests where even the rocks are green and mossy, and guide Tyou into the sagebrush-peppered hills of coulee country, where is laid bare. They’ll take you aboard a Washington State ferry to sail Mountains are more than just high places to the San Juan Islands, and they’ll reveal Indian petroglyphs Dramatic mountains play a major role along Washington’s etched on the banks of the . byways; many of these routes travel over mountain passes. One byway explores the urban wonders of the Seattle area: The volcanic peaks of the Cascade Mountains serve as both Pike Place Market, a designer coffee shop’s birthplace, luxe destinations and stunning backdrops along these roads, wineries and a sculpture park. visible from both ’s fir forests and eastern Another penetrates the remote Pend Oreille; lonely fishing Washington’s high desert plains. lakes, fields of wildflowers, tiny towns and sweet isolation. The Olympics provide a rain barrier so significant that One route takes you from the of towering Mount while 14 feet of rain per year falls on their western flanks, Rainier to the blue skies and fresh fruit markets of the Yakima on their eastern slopes, rainfall is measured in mere inches. Valley area. Pack a jacket, grab some sunglasses and hit the road. Washington travelers know that they stand a decent chance Whatever type of you’re craving, you will find it of getting out of the rain if they put a mountain range along one or more of Washington’s scenic byways. between themselves and the ocean. People traveling eastward beyond the Cascades often refer to it as “heading into the Nothing in moderation sun.” Getting to know these byways may be the closest This is a state that doesn’t do anything halfway. Hike you’ll ever come to controlling the weather! a landscape recently laid bare by the eruption of Mount St. Helens. Witness blossom time in the Wenatchee area Small towns with big rewards orchards that grow the bulk of this nation’s apples. Watch a The towns along Washington’s scenic byways are as varied storm roll in off the Pacific from the northwestern edge of as the landscape, and many of them are world-renowned. the continental . Stand on the flanks of Mount Forks, the rainy logging town, has a reputation for vampires Baker, where the world record for snowfall in a single season and werewolves thanks to the “Twilight” series, and was broken in 1999 with a grand total of 95 feet. (Yes, there’s Leavenworth, the “Bavarian” village, features an a ski area nearby.) Washington is a place filled with Oktoberfest that rivals Munich’s. superlatives. These byways will take you to all of them. And many more discoveries await—Stehekin’s splendid Water will be your constant travel companion. Many of these isolation at the northern tip of Lake Chelan; Goldendale, byways, following routes carved long ago by rivers, reveal deep with its public-access telescope and world-class art ; gorges and cascading waterfalls along the way. Others wind Coupeville, where history collides with locally grown food, along inland seas, offering clamming beaches and kayak producing delicious results. launches. Lakes along the way invite camping, fishing or a The one thing the towns along Washington’s byways all have cooling plunge off the end of a long dock. The is in common is friendly, welcoming people. Spend enough time ever present to the west, beckoning with surfing spots, salmon in any of these places, and you’ll leave with a wealth of local catch limits and lingering sunsets. knowledge and new friendships as .

4 Experience Washington’s Scenic Byways ...and you’ll discover the authentic and all of its spectacular diversity.

Outdoor recreation and watchable wildlife The 28 byways in this guide will deliver a long list of things to do, whether your recreational tastes run to kite boarding, biggest crop-growing . But many of these routes also strolling through historic sites or something in between. pass through areas where smaller farms and food producers are Wildlife watchers can spot animals ranging from to gray at the forefront of a tasty trend—organic farming. whales along these byways. A burgeoning local-food culture that’s spreading from the Birders have opportunities to see shorebirds, fowl, oyster farms of to the emmer fields of raptors and migrating flocks, as many byways are located along Mazama allows visitors the opportunity to get a literal taste of the Pacific Flyway. Thousands of miles of trails beckon, from almost any region they explore. The long-standing winery tours short paved walkways leading to mountain vistas, to the around Yakima and Walla Walla are still going strong, and now itself. travelers can add artisan-cheese tastings, handcrafted brewery And thanks to Washington’s plentiful national and state parks tours and farm-to-field feasts to the menu. and federal wildlife preserves, opportunities for camping abound. Look for the Savor Washington link at the back of this guide for a list of food lovers’ side trips along the byways. Native cultures provide rich history History buffs and cultural explorers will learn plenty along Coloring outside the lines is encouraged Washington’s byways. Follow in the footsteps of Lewis and Finally, this is a comprehensive and detailed guide to Clark as they journeyed to the Pacific. See the state through the these wonderful roads, but one that encourages detours and eyes of the people who have lived here for millennia. Take in discoveries. It’s the cardinal rule of the road trip; if something a Yakama Pow Wow or a Tribal rodeo and encampment in the looks interesting, go check it out. Okanogan; visit the museum of the , or eat Talk to locals, grab a bite to eat at that funky diner, turn salmon that was spit roasted on the beach at Neah Bay. onto the dirt road with an odd name. Every one of these scenic Plentiful interpretive sites and museums along these byways byways has wonders that didn’t make it into this guide— will teach all travelers something new. consider it your job to go out and find them! Be sure to take your time, and take it all in—the peacefully sublime and the Volcanic soil and sunshine create rich agriculture ruggedly spectacular. You’ll find both as you explore our scenic Washington has always been a major agricultural producer, byways, and you’ll quickly discover why in Washington State and some of these byways pass through the heart of the state’s diversity is an understatement.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 5 WASHINGTON STATE All American Roads and Scenic Byways

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J 9 22 11 22 17 26 9

8 17 6 8

9 6 19 20 5 9 26

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20 10 5 9

J 14 25 25 1

20 25 14 4 28 13 20

1 13 7 28 15

7 J 27

20 24 24

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All American Roads and Scenic Byways

2 route NAME Page 19 18 All American Roads

1 chinook Pass Scenic Byway 9 2 international Selkirk Loop 15

18 National scenic Byways 23 23 3 Coulee Corridor 21 4 Mountains to Sound Greenway 25 3 5 Stevens Pass Greenway 29

2 6 Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 33 7 White Pass Scenic Byway 37

state scenic Byways

8 Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway 40 9 Cascade Loop 42 10 Cascade Valleys 46 Chuckanut Drive 48 J 11 12 Columbia River Gorge 50 13 Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway 52 14 Hidden Coast Scenic Byway 54 21 21 15 Lewis and Clark Trail 56 16 Mt. Baker Scenic Byway 60 17 Scenic Highway 62 21 18 North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway 64 19 Okanogan Trails 66 21 3 20 Pacific Coast Scenic Byway 68

21 21 Palouse Scenic Byway 72 22 San Juan Islands Scenic Byway 74 21 23 Sherman Pass Scenic Byway 76 15 24 Spirit Lake Memorial Highway 78 15 25 Swiftwater Corridor 80 J 26 Whidbey Scenic Isle Way 82

15 J 27 Yakama Scenic Byway 84 28 Yakima River Canyon 86

All American Road Rest Area Airport Ab out this National Byway Ski Military Airport The byways are broken down into three tiers: All American Roads, National Scenic Byways and State Scenic Byways. State Byway Customs These designations are awarded by the U.S. Department of Transportation’s Federal Highway Administration. To learn more, please refer to the resource section on page 88.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 7 mT . Rainier 8Lakep Ti soo, Chinook Pass Summit Potoy h b BAUNTON a ll american roads

Chinook Pass The Chinook Pass Scenic Byway runs from the rolling fields of Enumclaw west of the Cascades to the Naches Valley east of the range. Along the way, this two-lane pass wraps around the northeastern flank of iconic Mount Rainier.

riving this byway will give you a first-hand Cascades will give way to the sparser tamaracks and Danswer to that ubiquitous Washington ponderosa pines of eastern Washington’s foothills. State question, “Is the Mountain out?” But At the byway’s end there are many rewards; miles of picture-perfect glimpses of the tallest peak in the horizon, abundant wildlife, farm stands filled with continental United States aren’t all this route has to local produce and, usually, warm weather and blue offer. This is a “boots-on” byway that presents every eastern Washington skies. opportunity to step out of the car into dense forests, Before you jump in your car and head out, alongside rollicking rivers and onto high desert remember a portion of this route is a seasonally plains. It seems there is a new microclimate every restricted road—plan your trip between late May other mile, so bring along extra layers of clothes, a and late November. solid pair of shoes, and don’t forget your camera. At the start of the byway, 14,410-foot-tall Mount Enumclaw Rainier steals the scene and challenges the sky. The city of Enumclaw, set between plateau Pause in Rainier’s foothills to explore an old-growth farmlands and the Cascade Mountains, is forest or snowshoe a placid path. As you travel east, sometimes referred to as the “gateway to Mount rushing water seems your constant companion, Rainier National Park,” although the folks over in as this road follows routes carved by the White, Elbe and Ashford may disagree. Greenwater, American and Naches rivers long ago. Spend a little time in town, relax and get ready Finally, the dense Douglas fir forests of the western to explore this nature-rich byway. The downtown ton n u a b b : photo rett

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 9 M T. RAinieR VIEW ALONG THE WAY chinook pass

area has corner cafes where you can Park. This day-use park has more than bums with sporting-equipment rentals, fill up on scratch cooking for your 600 acres of old-growth evergreens and coffee stands, a welcoming tavern and journey. Try timing your visit with one offers 12 miles of hiking trails, including a general store with a wide front porch. of Enumclaw’s many seasonal events; three short interpretive loops that are There’s even a business housed in a log the town hosts professional and amateur great for kids. cabin (of course) that’s been selling bike races, street festivals, an annual The park’s Catherine Montgomery custom-made knit caps since the 1970s. Fourth of July parade, the wild and Interpretive Center (named for a If you visit in fall, be sure to watch wonderful Scottish Highland Games pioneer educator) is open May through from the bridge in the heart of town for and much more. Also, if you noticed a September and features a geological spawning salmon swimming upstream. lot of farms with gorgeous horses on the history of the nearby White River, plus There are other excellent migration way into town, it’s because Enumclaw plants on display from the park’s nine viewing spots nearby; just ask at the local is one of the biggest thoroughbred different ecosystems. “tavern”—a friendly place that’s actually breeding and boarding areas in the a bar and grill, where kids are welcome. United States. Greenwater Farther along is the little town of Incomparable Rainier views Mud Mountain Dam Greenwater and the historic Naches Twenty-three miles east of Enumclaw A little farther up SR-410, Mud Trail, on which the earliest settlers is your first dazzling glimpse of Mount Mountain Dam Recreational Area is a arrived here in wagons. Many years Rainier. Fortunately, there’s a highway popular day-use facility for the whole later, the first visitors to newly opened pullout here, since this stunning sight family. Centered on a dam built on Mount Rainier National Park drove can be distracting. Stay alert for passing nglin

the White River in the 1940s, the park that same route. motorists whose attention may be more A

has plenty of grassy areas, playgrounds, Don’t make the mistake of speeding on the view than . Also, keep ason , J a wading pool with a fountain and a past this forested town; posted speed careful watch for elk crossings along this

forested nature trail. limits are strictly enforced. Besides, popular stretch of byway. bottom Eagles, owls and herons are common Greenwater is the perfect spot to stop, Another great view can be found at here, and you may even spot elk or . stretch your legs and grab coffee. It’s the nearby Suntop Lookout, about 7 miles last town before the pass, and the “hasn’t off SR-410 over two forest service roads Federation Forest State Park changed for decades” ambience of this best traveled by all-wheel-drive vehicles. About 18 miles east of Enumclaw is place is undeniable. Tranquil Greenwater A 1934 , now listed on the : TOP, PATRICK BENNETT;

the stunning Federation Forest State caters to locals, road warriors and ski National Register of Historic Places, photos

10 cinoo h namk ePASS

M Ount rainier national park

perched 3,000 feet above White River, this is also a very popular mountain Mountain Boulevard is the point where Suntop has a 360-degree perspective biking destination. the Chinook Scenic Byway closes for the on the Cascades, the distant Olympic Before getting much closer to Crystal winter. So, road conditions permitting, Mountains and even , 150 Mountain and Sunrise, stop in at the everything up to this point is accessible miles away to the north. historic Silver Creek Guard Station, year round. a open daily from May Skookum Falls and the to October. Mount Rainier National Park Pallisades trailhead The byway traverses the northeast Back on SR-410, note Skookum Crystal Mountain: Not just a corner of Mount Rainier National Park, Falls along the west side of the White winter playground a true Washington wonderland. Just 15 River, cascading in a pair of narrow tiers During winter, Washington’s largest miles off the byway, via the White River and dropping 250 feet. Spring runoff , Crystal Mountain, has 2,600 entrance (a $15 fee per car is required), season is the best time to catch the falls, acres of world-class terrain for skiers and is the scenic drive to the park’s Sunrise and there is a parking area for viewing. snowboarders, along with many slope-side Visitor Center, the mountain’s highest Skookum Falls is near the trailhead to lodging and dining options. A new high- elevation (6,400 feet) accessible by car. the Palisades rock formation, an array speed gondola allows skiers to make even The view of Mount Rainier from of dramatic columnar basalt cliffs and more runs on those perfect powder days. Sunrise is powerful. The mountain is plateaus located in the northwest corner The addition of the Mount Rainier of White River Park. It can be seen Gondola seals Crystal’s reputation as a from the Suntop Lookout road, which world-class ski resort, but it also means glin n A is accessed from the Huckleberry that Crystal Mountain is no longer just son a

J Creek Road (FS-73). for enthusiasts. The gondola , If you have time for an approximately climbs almost 2,500 feet from the ottom b 4-mile hike, there is foot access to mountain’s base to the top in under closer views of the falls and the 10 minutes. Now visitors can access Palisades on the Skookum Flats Trail. mountaintop dining and a stunning Find Huckleberry Creek Road (FS-73), view of Mount Rainier year round, 25 miles past Enumclaw. Drive a half making Crystal Mountain a true : mile to the trailhead, on the east side of four-season resort destination.

photos FS-73. TOP, PATRICK BENNETT; A word of caution to hikers; Just beyond the turnoff to Crystal crystal mt. resort gondola

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 11 The Silver Forest Trail is a short, Cross the pedestrian footbridge that spans family-friendly, 1-mile hike featuring the highway at the Chinook Summit, interpretive exhibits. The Emmons Vista and find high-country birds like the sooty Trail is also terrific for kids; a 1-mile and mountain chickadees round-trip leads to great views of Mount along the 3.5-mile Naches Park Loop. Rainier and the Emmons , the This is also a great stroll for largest glacier in the lower 48 states. experiencing the riot of wildflowers that Fremont Lookout is a longer trail, peak here in late July. a 5.5-mile round trip hike, through meadowland and over crags, that leads Down the eastern slopes to a spot where hikers can actually see Back on SR-410, you’ll get a breathtaking Seattle’s with binoculars. view looking east over the American River Grand Park, a 13-mile round trip, reveals Valley, from a viewpoint just past the a canyon that was filled in with 5,432-foot Chinook Pass summit. Sheep many millennia ago. Look for a small Lake Trailhead, accessing the epic north- herd of resident elk on this hike. south Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, is just across the street. Tipsoo at the top Hikers looking for a nice day crossing About 8 miles past the entrance through a cool forest should be pleased to Sunrise, the byway winds upward with the 5-mile trail off Mesatchee along a series of switchbacks to another Creek Road (itself off SR-410). From popular stop and photo-op—Tipsoo the trailhead, a steep 4-mile ascent to the Lake. Chances are you have seen this Mesatchee is worth the effort. lake, with Mount Rainier reflected in its Find even more fun at Bumping Lake still waters, even if you’ve never visited. Recreation Area, where the centerpiece It’s one of the most photographed nature is a midsize mountain lake that’s a great scenes in the United States. place to fish for kokanee, salmon and Located just before the Chinook rainbow . A marina with fishing- Pass summit, this tiny shimmering lake boat rentals, multiple campgrounds and is surrounded by a dazzling field of an abundance of hiking trails makes this

se lsilv r fal wildflowers in spring and summer while a popular family getaway. Mount Rainier poses majestically in the background. There are hiking trails, Boulder Cave no longer a distant icon; it’s a hulking including a short, paved, nature walk Spelunkers should turn onto a presence (and a technically active and the Naches Loop Trail, excellent for road marked “Boulder Cave National

). At Sunrise, you stand on the young kids. Try to spot the small herd of Recreation Trail” (a popular birding T U mountain’s flanks. Learn more, and elk that grazes here. trail). A bridge over the Naches S YEARO

prepare to explore the subalpine terrain, This is also a popular birding area. River leads U

at the Sunrise Visitor Center (open daily SR-410 is the jumping-off elk herd , MARC

from early July to early October), which point for a handful of ght also offers guided walks. Audubon Washington’s Great Washington State Take a hike Birding Trails, this birding One of the great pleasures of Sunrise is region, on the eastern slopes , PATRICK BENNETT; RI the availability of hiking trails of varying of the Cascades, is the Great left degrees of difficulty, all showcasing natural Washington State Birding :

glories and leading to scenic overlooks. Trail—Sun and Sage Loop. photos

12 cinoo h k PASS

to a mile-long walk to Boulder Cave, a Naches (pronounced nat-CHEEZE), Pull into Naches 400-foot-deep cave where a dwindling turn onto US-12 and stop at the Oak The byway’s end point, Naches, population of Townsend’s big-eared bats Creek Wildlife Area feeding station for is a tiny community 13 miles northwest hibernates during the winter (the cave is an encounter with one of the biggest of Yakima near the banks of the Naches closed to the public at that time). herds of Rocky Mountain elk in the River. The town is a gateway between Take one of the offered tours or be country. The feeding station operates the wild forests of the Cascades and your own guide, but bring flashlights in the winter when the Yakima herd of the fruit orchards of the Yakima (with plenty of extra batteries) and more than 1,000 elk comes down from Valley. The portion you see from something warm to wear. It’s about snowy higher elevations. the highway does not tell the full 50 degrees in the cave, even on a hot Bring warm clothes, arrive at the story of this community. The area summer day. visitor center prior to the 1:30 p.m. was settled in the 1850s, when some feeding time and take a truck tour out of the members of the Longmire Dining, lodging and supplies in Cliffdell to the feeding grounds for a close-up wagon train decided to opt for the Cliffdell, a quiet area in the woods of view of these massive animals. Continue region’s warmer, drier climes instead Wenatchee National Forest, is a good along SR-410 to see the Cleman of pushing on to the rainy Pacific place for travelers to pick up supplies, Mountain year-round bighorn sheep coast. Pull into Naches’ quaint little grab a great meal or even book a room feeding station. downtown for some antique shopping after the scenic drive over the pass. Don’t overlook the birds. Lewis’s and local dining. Heading down the east side of this woodpeckers, golden eagles, turkey The Naches Valley is an agricultural byway, visitors pass through a transition vultures and myriad other birds abound area with a bounty of fruit orchards zone as the dense forests thin out, in these garry-oak woodlands, basalt (primarily apple and pear) and revealing the dramatic underpinnings of cliffs and sage-covered hills. This area is vineyards. Be sure to load up on the land. The changing landscape reveals also part of the Great Washington State fresh-picked seasonal fruits and mesmerizing, almost dreamlike evidence Birding Trail—Sun and Sage Loop. vegetables at the many roadside stands. of ancient volcanic activity. Watch for unique, drooping geologic landforms on the north side of the byway just east of Planning Tips Distance 87 MILES Cliffdell. Wide shoulders on both sides of the road enable visitors to stop and Getting There: The western Drive time 2 hours starting point, Enumclaw, is look (bring binoculars) across the river plan to spend 1 day approximately 40 miles (50 minutes) southeast at prehistoric lava outcroppings where of Seattle. The byway is 87 miles long, heading best seasons* sr p ing, summer, fall eagles nest. east from Enumclaw to Naches, following the Mather Memorial Highway (SR-410). Chinook top adventures Pass is closed from just beyond the Crystal Mountain Ski Area at milepost 57 to Morse * Much of the route is open year round, but Chinook Pass is The Naches River is your constant Creek at milepost 74 on the east side between closed during winter. (See “Getting There” for details.)

T companion along this part of the byway. approximately the end of November and the end U It dodges between high basalt cliffs and of May. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and seasonal closures. YEARO S U eddies into deep-green pools. White- Gas, Food and Lodging: Accommodations ranging from cabins to to condos to - water enthusiasts enjoy this river’s Class style bunks can be found in the larger towns along the byway, as well as at Crystal Mountain. MARC ,

ht Campgrounds are plentiful, as are RV parks. Fuel and other services are available, though there are long

g II and III rapids during the high-water months of May and June. Campers stretches of highway without them. Greenwater is your last fuel stop until you reach Cliffdell, 53 miles up and over the Chinook Pass summit. enjoy the many campgrounds along this river year round. Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: White Pass, Yakima River Canyon PATRICK BENNETT; RI , Elk and bighorn sheep feeding stations l Local ResourceS: Chinook Scenic Byway chinookscenicbyway.com, White Pass Scenic Byway : Wildlife lovers shouldn’t miss this www.whitepassbyway.com, Visit Rainier www.visitrainier.com

photos eft 2-mile detour. Just before the town of

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 13 14m e ta line falls a ll american roads

International Selkirk Loop This grand, 280-mile, pear-shaped route is perfect for drivers who love sweeping curves of roadway and prefer snow-dusted mountains and deep river gorges for company instead of traffic.

his loop provides a taste of international Ttravel as it meanders from Washington into , , then back down into the United States via , encircling the Selkirk Mountains. Take the North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway (pronounced “pond-o-RAY”) and add some of SR-20 as a southern tail—all the way down to the town of Newport, on Washington’s border with Idaho—and you’ve got Washington’s 73-mile leg of the International Selkirk Loop. The byway runs parallel to the Pend Oreille River’s northbound waters and passes through . Established by Theodore Roosevelt, the 1.1-million-acre forest is a favorite for wildlife watchers and visitors interested in the area’s natural and human history. There is solitude and magnificent scenery in the Selkirk Mountains, foothills to the Rockies, and an array of recreation for anyone who loves camping, hiking, boating and sightseeing in colorful communities. Forage for wild huckleberries and camp along lakes, rivers and streams. Explore almost 500 miles of hiking, mountain biking and horse trails. Discover this region’s abundant wildlife, including grizzly and black bears, , bald eagles and the last herd of caribou in the continental United States.

Starting in Newport, Washington The southern gateway to Washington’s slice of the International Selkirk Loop, Newport, located on the state’s border with Idaho, was once a significant commerce center that included a small armada obin t of steamboats on the Pend Oreille River. Today b : Newport boasts a charming downtown that’s worth a stroll whether you’re seeking hand-dipped ice photo en

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 15 and local forests. The museum also Park, just east of Newport on LeClerc features a Burlington Northern caboose, Road, has an archaeological interpretive various farm equipment, reconstructed trail with displays about the region’s log cabins and a relocated U.S. Forest Kalispel Tribe of Native Americans. The Service (USFS) fire lookout station. engrossing exhibits include an elevated Next door, Centennial Plaza features boardwalk overlooking a 4,000-year-old an impressive artifact from the bygone oven, where the Kalispels once baked days of the timber industry—the Big camas root. Wheel, part of an 83,000-pound, 16-foot This starchy root was a food staple steam-driven sawmill power plant. One for both indigenous people and settlers block north of downtown is the Newport in the Northwest. Visit during spring Ranger Station, which can provide and you’ll be treated to of information on hiking, biking and camas flowers in full bloom, painting snowmobiling in Colville National Forest. the with a blue haze. Park at Begin your outdoor recreation on the day-use area in the Pioneer Park this byway at the northern edge of Campground to access this trail. Newport. At the intersection of SR-20 The trail also provides beautiful views and Warren Avenue, turn north and of the river and potential glimpses of follow N. Warren 1 mile to the Lower many birds, including eagles, , trailhead, one of three trails in the waterfowl, and warblers. Wolf Trail System managed by Colville National Forest. The Lower Wolf Trail Nearby birding hot spots. Birders should is a scenic 1-mile loop through a mixed take in Calispell Lake, north of Newport. conifer forest with views of the Pend Travel 12 miles on SR-20 and turn left Oreille River. The two upper trails, west on Westside Calispell Road; a 6-mile loop of SR-20 are suited for mountain biking will take you back to the highway when and cross-country skiing. you’re ready. Fans of beautiful and fragrant lavender This is a privately owned lake and fields can rejoice. The annual big draw wetland, but birders don’t have to trespass to this town is the Pend Oreille Valley to add to their life lists. This marsh area Lavender Festival in July, celebrating attracts migrating birds in the spring and this locally grown herb when blossoms fall, and there’s plenty to see from the are at their purple peak. Events include public road. Tundra and trumpeter swans, tours, music, gourmet foods, fine arts, sandhill cranes, raptors from bald eagles lavender plants and products, hands- to goshawks, various waterfowl, and on art demonstrations for kids and hummingbirds are just a sampling of the t adults, workshops, lavender distilling avian life that thrives in this spot. u H iking Idaho Peak, British columbia yearo

demonstrations and more. s Lavender’s not the only plant in town, Birding on the Pend Oreille. Another u marc

cream from an antique soda fountain or however. Travelers visiting in May can side trip for birding is 11 miles north ,

an adult thirst quencher at a watering check out a local commercial iris field in full of Usk—just north of Newport—on right ; ns

hole that’s been around since 1894. bloom and dig bulbs to take home. Rodeo the east side of the Pend Oreille River. u gl Drop in at the Newport Visitor’s lovers can enjoy a PWRA sanctioned event There’s parking near a hatchery building david

Center and the Pend Oreille County in late June including a fun carnival. and year-round foot trails and vantage ,

Historical Museum (located on the same points from which to observe a host of left site) to learn more about the region’s Pioneer Park. Set in a forest and adjacent species in diverse habitats. : 2

past and its economic ties to the river to the Pend Oreille River, Pioneer Watch for great blue herons, warblers, photos

16 inte rnATIONAl SELKIRK LOOP

Virginia rails, sora, hawks, owls, grouse, swans, violet green swallows, thrushes, song sparrows, yellow chat, and marsh wrens. Wetland areas are closed to traffic during waterfowl nesting season. For more birding sites and maps in the area go to www.selkirkloop.org and click on activities, then birding.

Kalispel tribal culture. Fifteen miles north

of Newport, the small community of Kalispel tribe Usk (named by a Welsh immigrant after BUffalo, his hometown in ) is home to highway 31A – west of kaslo, b.c. usk the Kalispel Tribe of Indians. The tribe operates a buffalo situated on the being. The 17-acre site, once a significant north of the Camas Center on LeClerc LeClerc Road near the Camas Center. cultural resource for Kalispel Indians and Road on the east side of the Pend Oreille Take the bridge at Usk across the Pend the location of an old lumber mill, was River from Usk and Cusick. Oreille River and turn north on LeClerc targeted for dike development. Road. There is an excellent viewpoint for A 1997 flood led to a decision to The Tiger Store and Post Office. The tiny visitors and a rare bass fish hatchery that rebuild a dike system farther inland, hamlet of Tiger was established in the may be visited by advance reservation. opening this site to park and wetland 1880s and named for George Tiger, who The annual Pow Wow is held the last education development. Visitors can built a boat landing on the river here. weekend of July and is an excellent way now enjoy a pond, picnic area and Once a thriving town, all that remains to witness Kalispel dancing, drumming graveled trail system. Look for eagles of Tiger today is the historic Tiger Store and other ancient cultural traditions, perching in ponderosa pines, or and Post Office, built in 1912. In 1999, www.kalispeltribe.com. osprey among old pilings in the river. residents turned the site into a visitor Usk and Cusick are merely blocks Other commonly seen birds include center and museum, complete with a apart, and there is a paved walking/biking geese, swans, ducks, cormorants, replica turn-of-the-century forge. Stop trail with benches along the shoreline hummingbirds, and sparrows. for a snack, read the informational kiosk connecting these two small communities. and rest before continuing through the Manresa Grotto. Don’t miss the Manresa junction to SR-31. Trimble Creek. Less than 4 miles past Grotto on the Kalispel Reservation. A Cusick is a riparian woodland and steep path among massive boulders leads Nile and Frater lakes. If a quick break on the river floodplain. A to a high-roofed cave that looks out over at a small body of water before moving primitive trail on the east side of the the Pend Oreille River and the entire farther up the byway sounds appealing, highway accessed from LeClerc Road reservation. Once you’ve stepped inside proceed 4 miles west on SR-20 from t u is another perfect ramble for birders, this cool, still place, it’s easy to understand Tiger to Tiger Meadows, a moist earo y

who can see western tanagers, eagles, why this is a holy site to the native people. meadow, on the left. A half mile west s u Virginia rails, red-winged and yellow- The Kalispel have held services here from there, you’ll find Nile Lake, a arc m

, headed blackbirds, bobolinks, vireos, and since the nineteenth century and still shallow lake with a primitive boat ramp. ight

r Savannah sparrows. hold an annual Easter mass in the rock Another quarter mile to the east is Frater

; s n

u shelter. A missionary named the cave Lake, a developed recreation site with l g Cusick Wetland Education Site. Along the after one in Spain in which St. Ignatius, picnic facilities and restrooms. Frater avid d

, shore of the Pend Oreille River in Cusick founder of the Jesuits, prayed. Rows Lake has single- and double-track trails l is a Wetland Education Site, an example of flat stones provide seating before a for mountain bikers, and winter visitors : of creative thinking in terms of both the simple stone altar in the auditorium-like will enjoy cross-country ski trails and a

photos eft environment 2 and the community’s well- grotto. Find this natural worship spot warming hut.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 17 Ainsworth Hot Springs. For a relaxing soak, don’t miss this horseshoe-shaped cave, where the darkness, mineral deposits and humidity combine for a unique hot springs experience. Besides the hot springs, pool and caves, the resort offers first-class accommodations, a lounge and superb dining; there is also an excellent on the premises.

Kaslo. Known as “Paradise on the Lake,” Kaslo has been voted one of

c rawford bay Canada’s prettiest towns. This charming, noticeably art-oriented community has a fun shopping district, great North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway. This Rossland. With a population of under and a museum and is also host to the leg of the International Selkirk Loop, 4,000, no traffic lights and not a mall Kaslo Jazz Etc. Festival every August. SR-31, continues north into British in sight, Rossland is a small city that Highlight: SS Moyie, ’s Columbia. It’s such an interesting bills itself as “the real deal.” Many oldest restored sternwheeler. stretch of road that it has its own people who visit fall under the spell separate designation as the North of the mountains and stay, becoming Kootenay Lake ferry. Part of the B.C. Pend Oreille Scenic Byway. Read lifelong skiers, mountain bikers highway system, this is North America’s more about this byway in the North and adventurers. longest free ferry. The ferry takes 45 Pend Oreille section of this guide; it Highlights: Underground gold mine minutes to cross Kootenay Lake from includes a bootleggers’ cave, cascading tour at the Rossland Historical Museum; the west to east shore and is part of waterfalls and a movie set! From Tiger, Ski Resort. Highway 3A. commerce

you can also head west on SR-20 to of Kettle Falls and connect with the Castlegar. Called the “Crossroads of the Crawford Bay artisan colony.Watch Sherman Pass Scenic Byway. Kootenays” because of its location at the artisans in action making brooms, chamber strategic Highway 3 and Highway 3A throwing pots, weaving, enameling, and Outside Washington State. The International intersection, Castlegar’s real distinction blacksmithing. sandpoint Selkirk Loop crosses into Canada, then may lie in its proximity to the several

returns to the United States by way great waterways of the area. Boswell. Located on the spectacular east rtesy u co

of Idaho before looping back into Highlights: The suspension bridge shore of Kootenay Lake, Boswell is a ; b u

Washington State. Here are some of to Zukerberg Island Heritage Park; quiet community where time seems to cl

the highlights visitors can enjoy beyond Doukhobor Discovery Centre. slow down. resort Washington’s borders. Highlight: The Glass House. This Nelson. Located 6 miles north unusual is a home springs British Columbia, Canada of Whitewater Ski & Winter Resort, built from over half a million discarded There are seven border crossings into Nelson is a city on the move with a embalming-fluid bottles. kokanee

Canada from eastern Washington. Along population of 9,500—the largest town on rtesy the North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway, the B.C. side of the Selkirk Loop. It is a Creston. Creston is an outdoor lover’s u co travelers follow SR-30 to the Metaline creative center for artists and culture, where delight with tree-covered hills, craggy, , right Falls/Nelway border crossing. Get visitors will find an incredible selection of snow-covered mountain peaks, the to

information about the documentation items produced by local artisans. Skimmerhorn Range, deep clear lakes, left that is required at the U.S.-Canada Highlights: Streetcar #23; Whitewater rippling mountain streams, and wide :

border at www.dhs.gov/index.shtm. Ski & Winter Resort; Lakeside Park. open spaces. Waving fields of grains photos

18 inte rnATIONAl SELKIRK LOOP

and roadside fruit stands attest to the long, lush growing season of the Creston Valley. Highlights: Columbia Brewery with tours and tasting of Kokanee Beer; Creston Valley Wildlife Management Area for canoe tours through the .

International border crossing. You will enter the U.S. into Idaho at the Rykerts-Porthill border crossing. Get

information about the documentation Lake pend oreille from schweitzer required at the U.S.-Canada border at www.dhs.gov/index.shtm. fishermen and water-sports enthusiasts the Panhandle Historic Rivers Passage Entering Idaho of all types converge upon this vast Scenic Byway. On this route, you’ll enjoy Wild Horse Trail Scenic Byway. In Idaho, aquatic playground. driving along miles of soothing river travelers will connect with the Wild Highlights: scenery that reflects the pastoral beauty Horse Trail Scenic Byway, which starts Ski Resort; Lake Pend Oreille—the of surrounding forests and farms. on the northwestern shores of Lake 13th-largest freshwater lake in the Pull over and be entertained by both Pend Oreille in the resort community world at over 1,000 feet deep; tours at resident and migrating wildlife, birds of Sandpoint. Heading north along the Pend d’Oreille Winery, Idaho’s winery of prey and waterfowl. Learn how the eastern side of the Selkirk Mountains, of the year. waterway played an important role in the roadway follows the Kootenai Tribe’s developing the region dating back to historic path to fishing grounds at Lake Return to Washington the and the Great Missoula ommerce c

Pend Oreille. From Sandpoint, follow US-2 Floods. You can read more about this f o westbound to re-enter Washington and in the Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway Bonners Ferry. The town of Bonners complete the loop at Newport following section of this guide. hamber c Ferry originated as a river crossing point. It was first traversed by Indian bark andpoint s canoes and then by Edwin Bonner’s Planning Tips Driving Distance 280 MILES tesy r ferry, built in 1865 to the u o TGeTTING here: From Seattle, take c

Drive time 8 hours ; miners rushing to the new gold strike on b I-90 to Spokane, then head north on u l c Wild Horse Creek in British Columbia US-2 to Newport (325 miles / 6 hours). Take SR- plan to spend 2-3 days Highlights: Kootenai National Wildlife 20 at the town of Newport, and proceed north. A esort

r junction at Tiger connects with SR-31, leading best seasons* y ear round Refuge; Boundary County Museum. north to the Canadian border. When returning to Seattle, consider taking SR-20 west at Tiger prings top adventure: 2 states / 2 countries s Sandpoint. Less than an hour north of across the Sherman Pass Scenic Byway and all the way to US-97 to join the Okanogan Trails *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road okanee Coeur d’Alene, the approach from Scenic Byway and Cascade Loop. k conditions and seasonal closures.

the south into Sandpoint on US-95 tesy r Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: u o sets the stage for a dramatic entrance; c

North Pend Oreille, Sherman Pass, Okanogan Trails, Cascade Loop, , a 2-mile-long bridge crossing over Panhandle Historic Rivers Passage (ID), Wild Horse Trail Scenic Byway (ID) ight r

o the beautiful Lake Pend Oreille. t Local ResourceS: Sandpoint sits on the northwestern l

: International Selkirk Loop www.selkirkloop.org, shore of the 43-mile lake, which comes Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp

photos eft alive in the summer months when

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 19 20d lsr y fa l NATIONAS L CENIC BYWAYS

C oulee Corridor

Coulee Corridor This breathtaking landscape will leave you wondering if the rest of the world really exists.

his might happen after you wind through a There are also museums, state parks, a national Tcoulee and its shadow withdraws from your recreation area, festivals, and historic reminders of windshield. Or it might happen when the clean the region’s indigenous culture, the Confederated smell of sagebrush hits you like a tonic after a dusty Tribes of the Colville. hike to a desert plateau. It could happen when you There is something for everyone to enjoy on this jump off a boulder into a deep blue lake and are dynamic trip. shocked by how warm it is. Find fishing lakes, desert hikes, little shops, dusty Columbia museums, willow-shaded parks, and the fields Located north of Othello on Morgan Lake Road that grow your food. Take a boat to a lakeshore (gravel much of the way), the Columbia National campsite, or stay the night in a cowboy town. Once Wildlife Refuge (CNWR) is full of rich and varied you experience the world of the Coulee Corridor, habitats, from ponds and marshes to farm fields you will never forget it and always want to return. and shrub-steppe desert. This refuge protects more than 230 species of birds. Sandhill cranes, avocets, A rich wildlife and agricultural center long-billed curlews, great horned owls, and The Coulee Corridor is such an important birding area, that Audubon Washington has developed a Great Washington State Birding Trail— Coulee Corridor map. Order one at http://wa.audubon.org. It is also home to large concentrations of both wildlife and wildflowers. Dozens of field crops thrive in this agricultural area. Grant County is the largest grower in the state of apples and potatoes, with major acreage also dedicated to hay, corn, green peas, onions and wheat. The town of Ephrata is the state’s mint capital. Look for signs hung on fences along the byway that explain what’s growing in the fields beyond. In the towns around here it is not uncommon to attend a parade in which ennett b the “floats” are farm implements decked out in Christmas lights or boxes of p : produce. This is small-town America on

photo ATRICK full, proud display.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 21 body of water for year-round placid Lake. The Dry Falls visitors who come to camp, Visitor Center traces the dynamic history boat, fish and enjoy water of the cataclysmic floods that carved out skiing and parasailing. Coulee Country. The city of Moses Lake is

ake one of the largest along the Banks Lake and Steamboat Rock Deep L B salta walls at Coulee Corridor and hosts a huge State Park falcons are just some farmers market with over 150 vendors From US-2, head north on SR-155, of the birds you may encounter. from May to October. Since this is some and you’ll be hugging the eastern edge of , and badgers live here, of the finest agricultural land in the Banks Lake as the road threads between and yellow-bellied marmot sightings are world, the fresh, seasonal offerings staggering basalt monoliths. A practically guaranteed. A 22-mile birding here are simply unsurpassable. See created by the Grand Coulee Dam, loop includes an interpretive overlook at www.moseslakefarmersmarket.com. Banks Lake has 91 miles of shoreline and Royal Lake. is popular for fishing and water sports. Check at CNWR headquarters in Ephrata and Soap Lake Access Banks Lake at Steamboat Rock Othello for maps and regulations on A slight detour onto SR-282 will State Park. This grand 3,522-acre park camping, boating, hunting and hiking. take you to Ephrata, where you can see is named for the 800-foot basalt butte Most of the refuge is closed during fall some good examples of early twentieth- that towers above it. This state park has and winter. century architecture and check out the waterfront camping for tents and RVs, Grant County Historical Museum. a day-use area with multiple swimming Shops, restaurants and gas are available beaches, boat ramps, sweeping green From the Columbia National Wildlife here. Head north on SR-28 to get back lawns and sand dunes. Whether Refuge, continue to SR-262, then head to the byway at Soap Lake. you travel with a fishing pole or a east and take SR-17 north to get back to Located at the southern end of a chain wakeboard, you’ll find paradise here. the byway. Along this route you’ll find of lakes at the Lower Grand Coulee, Just be sure to reserve a site if you , a 640-acre camping Soap Lake is a tiny inland sea historically plan on spending the night during the park with 6,000 feet of freshwater famous for its mineral-rich water and summer; this is one of Washington’s shoreline on Potholes Reservoir. creamy black mud. For decades, Soap most popular campgrounds. The park is in an area known as Lake was a spa destination for people the “scablands”—rough-hewn terrain seeking treatment for illness and injury. Northrup Canyon formed by a combination of lava flows, Stop at the in-town beach and soak in Once traversed by wagon trains, huge floods and strong winds. Massive the “healing waters.” Northrup Canyon, part of the sand dunes, coulees and lava fields Steamboat Rock State Park Recreation characterize the landscape. Dry Falls State Park Area, is a sanctuary for wildlife, with a There are four boat ramps and 100 Slightly west of Coulee City is Dry forest (the only one in Grant County) t feet of dock for year-round water Falls State Park, the site of what was and meadows full of wildflowers in u yearo recreation. Boating, fishing (bass, once the world’s largest waterfall—four spring. Visit this valley on horseback or s bullhead, crappie, perch), use of personal times the size of Falls. The falls on foot. u marc watercraft, water skiing, kayaking, and were created near the end of the last ,

Grand Coulee Dam right

swimming are all permitted. Ice Age, when the Missoula floods ; diverted 500 cubic miles of water over At the northern tip of Banks Lake Moses Lake

this region in multiple thunderous and on SR-155, you’ll reach Grand Coulee marshall

Moses Lake, located at the SR-17/I-90 epic rampages. Dam, the third-largest producer of john intersection, is a sparkling reservoir Where once there was the drama of electricity in the world and, at 550 , left

along . Originally a shallow falling water, there are now 3.5 miles of feet, the largest concrete structure in two natural lake, Moses Lake was dammed bare ravine carved out by the repeated the United States. It is larger than the :

for . It remains a welcoming flooding, with a 400-foot drop to the great pyramids of Egypt and generates photos

22 cleou e orridor

steamboat rock g rand coulee dam

more power than a million locomotives. As you travel the last leg of this byway Okanogan country, Omak is a year- A visit should include a stop at the from Grand Coulee Dam to Omak, round playground featuring recreational visitor center to learn the dam’s history. don’t miss the Sasquatch at the top of activities from camping and fishing to Tours of the awe-inspiring structure are Disautel Pass between Nespelem and cross-country skiing and snowmobiling. available. In addition, the dam’s smooth Omak. It’s a sculpture, of course, but The main street has a small-town feel, concrete face serves as a projection many have reported Sasquatch sightings with great shops to browse and locally screen for laser light shows that have in this area. owned restaurants. Annual cultural been entertaining audiences since events include the Omak Stampede, the 1980s. Omak: End of the trail Indian Encampment & Pow Wow and, From Grand Coulee Dam, continue thanks to a rich Hispanic influence, one Colville Confederated Tribes Museum west on SR-155 toward the town of the best Cinco de Mayo celebrations Grand Coulee Dam is located on of Omak. Located in the heart of in the state. the Colville Indian Reservation, home to a dozen tribes (Moses, Columbia, Wenatchee, Okanogan, Entiat-Chelan, Planning Tips Driving Distance 100 MILES Methow, , Palus, Nespelem, TGeTTING here: From Seattle, take Colville, San Poil, and Lake) and the Drive time 2.5 hours I-90 east across the Columbia River resting place of the legendary Chief at Vantage, then head south to SR-26 east to plan to spend 1–2 days Joseph of the Nez Perce. Find the tall Othello (178 miles / 2.75 hours). The byway best seasons* sr p ing, summer, fall marble monument that marks his grave begins in Othello and winds its way north through lakes, farmland and basalt coulees, top adventures at the Colville tribal cemetery ending in Omak. Depending on the season, you in Nespelem. may want to continue via the North Cascades t *The route is open year round, but spring, summer and fall are best. u The history of these Native peoples is Scenic Byway (SR-20), which is closed in Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and seasonal closures.

earo the winter. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road y the subject of the Colville Confederated s

u conditions and seasonal closures. Tribes Museum, located in an A-frame arc m

, in the town of Coulee Dam, on the Gas, Food and Lodging: There are , and other accommodations, ight including camping and RV parks, as well as small, locally owned restaurants spread across this r

; reservation across from the Grand 100-mile byway. Gas is also readily available, except between Sun Lakes State Park and Grand Coulee. Coulee Dam. arshall Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:

m The museum features murals depicting

Okanogan Trails, North Cascades, Cascade Loop ohn the Nez Perce trail and pre-dam Kettle j

,

eft Falls, a collection of vintage photographs Local Resources: Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway www.couleecorridor.com l

of Tribal members and the land before Grand Coulee Chamber of Commerce www.grandcouleedam.org t : development, plus displays of basketry, Grant County Tourism, www.tourgrantcounty.com

photos wo beadwork, clothing and tools.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 23 24s mn oqua l ie falls NATIONAS L CENIC BYWAYS

Mountains to Sound Greenway ...make your way from the skyscrapers of urban up over a mountain pass then down into the ranch land and sagebrush hills of eastern Washington.

here’s never a dull roadside moment on the Start in Seattle TMountains to Sound Greenway. In terms of The most visited attraction in all of Seattle, bar diversity and time commitment, this byway delivers none, is the Pike Place Market. From the famous maximum bang for your travel buck. salmon-tossing fishmongers, to the bounty of produce, Farmers markets like Seattle’s Pike Place Market fresh flowers and seafood, to the infamous gum wall, and the one at Bellevue’s Mercer Slough Blueberry this is a day trip unto itself. Take a stroll through Farm are obvious attractions, but there’s more to the nearby Olympic Sculpture Park and grab a cup sample along the way. The Mountains to Sound of coffee at the world’s first Starbucks, then jump in Greenway boasts over 20 small farmers markets. the car and head for the I-90 eastbound on-ramp. The route’s characteristic Northwest landscapes and quirky towns even caught the attention of Crossing to the Eastside Hollywood; the television shows “” and Bellevue is the first stop after crossing Lake “Northern Exposure” were filmed in North Bend Washington on the I-90 floating bridge (yes, it and Roslyn. actually floats). While Bellevue has become known The Mountains to Sound Greenway connects for its high-tech skyline and high-end downtown trails and natural areas with working farms, forests shopping district, it is surrounded by equally and wildlife habitats. It provides easy access to compelling natural beauty. Nestled on the eastern towering waterfalls and craggy peaks to conquer. shore of Lake Washington, the city offers plenty of It offers snow skiing, paragliding and lodging waterfront hiking and biking trails with easy access. in resorts that face a waterfall or a fairway. Year Nearby at Redmond’s Marymoor Park, you can round, this road trip offers something special for stroll along a regional trail, picnic on the lawn or every interest. watch birds or a world-class outdoor concert near the ramowitz b i : photo m A T

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 25 Name photo : pATRICK bennett

pike place market r attlesnake ledge

shores of . If slow down to cruise through downtown dinner. This has been a sacred gathering you’re lucky, you’ll get to watch a Issaquah. It is a charming community, place for indigenous people for centuries national bicycle-racing championship. with a terrific theater troupe that and continues to delight visitors from all Marymoor Park is home to the state’s performs Broadway musicals to packed over the world. For an extra-spectacular only velodrome, a 400-meter banked houses, an upscale wine bar and one of show, visit the falls in the spring when track dedicated to the sport. the region’s best Mexican restaurants. melting snow from the Cascades turns A salmon hatchery at the end of town up the volume a few notches. Mercer Slough Nature Park and provides helpful information about Historic downtown Snoqualmie Environmental Education Center the life cycle of salmon, and if you is worth a cruise while you’re in the Located on a biologically diverse show up between mid-September and neighborhood. It features unique shops, 320-acre wetland in the heart of urban mid-October, you’ll be treated to the a vibrant scene, a large tribal Bellevue, the Mercer Slough Nature Park fascinating sight of thousands of salmon casino, local arts and festivals, and a lot and Environmental Education Center is returning “home” to spawn in Issaquah of outdoor recreation. It is also home operated jointly by the City of Bellevue Creek after a lifetime out at sea. The to the Northwest Railway Museum, the and Pacific Science Center in Seattle. community-wide Salmon Days Festival largest railway museum in Washington Family workshops, including night is held the first weekend of October. See State, which offers scenic t walks, snowshoe outings and “Scouts www.salmondays.org. aboard antique train along a 5-mile u yearo in the Wild” programs, are an excellent Nearby Tiger Mountain provides stretch of historic railway. s u way to engage your kids in the natural some of the nicest woodland trails marc world as long as you don’t mention the in the area and rewards hikers with North Bend ; word “educational.” See www.pacsci.org/ spectacular views of downtown Seattle North Bend is located 30 miles east of reenway

slough for more information. and across the Sound to the Olympic Seattle on I-90. Surrounded by stunning G nd u

While in the area, be sure to swing by Mountain Range. This is also a popular vistas of , o S to the Bellevue Parks Department’s Mercer hang gliding and paragliding launch and the Cascade Mountains, North Slough Blueberry Farm, which carries site. Lessons and tandem flights with an Bend has a well-maintained historic ntains u seasonal fresh produce, flowers and other experienced pilot are available. downtown and offers an eclectic mix o ; M farm products. Visitors can pick their of dining and shopping. The area offers stock own blueberries when they’re in season, impressive hiking and bicycling trails big from mid-July to late August, www. Near the town of Snoqualmie, the and paths, including the most famous , right ci.bellevue.wa.us/blueberry_farm.htm. mists of the magnificent 268-foot and popular hike in Washington State, to

Snoqualmie Falls rise from the river. the Mount Si Trail, a strenuous 8-mile left Into the foothills Enjoy the rush from the observation roundtrip hike with an elevation gain of :

Within a few minutes of Bellevue, deck or at the restaurant over lunch or over 4,000 feet. photos

26 m ounTAINS to sound greenway

bar and eatery are at once familiar and “to-see” list. The Museum, welcoming. The multicultural cemetery at located downtown, provides a unique the end of town is a fascinating glimpse of peek into the days of the “let me connect how the cultural and religious segregation you” switchboard operator that few that separated the citizens of the small people today can remember. community during life, now continues through eternity. Stop by the local The “old road” to Thorp and Ellensburg museum to get the details on this as well For a glimpse of the highway system

urg as on the area’s rich coal- history. before the interstates bypassed many of uilding , ellensb davidson b A new golf community nearby has our country’s small rural communities, Just west of downtown North Bend, generated much enthusiasm and will follow SR-10 from the south end of Cle you will find the westernmost trailhead play a vital role in the ongoing economic Elum past decaying wooden irrigation to the John Wayne Iron Horse State development of the region. Along with flumes to Thorp with its restored grist Park. This 100-mile trail was once part the links, hiking and biking trails, mill and popular fruit stand/antique store. of the path of the Chicago-Milwaukee- boutique lodging and excellent dining From Thorp continue to Ellensburg, the St. Paul-Pacific Railroad and includes overlooking the golf course combine to home to University, several trestles and tunnels. This hiking, make this a worthwhile destination. and check out its historic downtown biking and equestrian trail leads up and Cle Elum, located just a few miles east district, burgeoning artist community and over through a tunnel of Roslyn, features several locally owned fabulous farmers market. and all the way to the Columbia River restaurants and a popular Italian market Get more information about the at Vantage. that makes its own specialty sausage and surrounding recreational opportunities also features a great selection of cheeses and historic communities in the Snoqualmie Pass and olives. A coffee roaster and historic Swiftwater Corridor Scenic Byway Pass is bakery should also be added to your section of this guide. best known for its winter recreation opportunities—and with four ski areas, hundreds of cross-country skiing and snowshoeing trails and miles of Planning Tips Driving Distance 101 MILES snowmobiling roads, these opportunities TGeTTING here: From Seattle, take Drive time 1.5 hours are nearly endless. But it is also a popular I-90 eastbound. This 101-mile journey t u will lead you out of Seattle, through the foothills plan to spend 1 day birding, hiking, biking, river-rafting, of the Cascade Mountain Range, and up and over earo y and canoeing destination in the spring, best seasons* y ear round s Snoqualmie Summit, and then will descend into u summer and fall. Gentle mountain the desert plains and winding rivers that link Cle arc top adventures m

; streams meander through wildflower Elum and Ellensburg. meadows that are nestled in the valleys *I-90 is open year round, but winter driving conditions can change eenway Gas, Food and Lodging: quickly. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and closures. r G beneath towering peaks. This is one of Every community along the byway, from d n u Bellevue, Issaquah and North Bend on the west side to historic Roslyn, Cle Elum and Ellensburg on the east side, o the most popular hiking areas in the S

o features excellent lodging that ranges from top-notch Northwest-style resorts to rustic campgrounds. There are t state, due to its close proximity many good family-owned restaurants that feature locally sourced ingredients and friendly conversation. Just ask tains to Seattle. around to find out where the locals gather. Gas can be found in all the communities along the byway, but always n u o gas up before you head into any of the wilderness areas. M ; Roslyn and Cle Elum tock Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Swiftwater Corridor, Yakima River Canyon, Stevens Pass s

ig A historic coal mining community, Greenway alternate loop: For an extremely scenic loop trip back from Ellensburg through Leavenworth, b

, Roslyn was the home to the popular take US-97 over Blewitt Pass and return to western Washington via US-2 and the Stevens Pass Scenic Byway. ight r

o TV series “Northern Exposure,” where t Local ResourceS: it stood in for the fictional city of l Mountain to Sound Greenway Trust www.mtsgreenway.org : Cicely, Alaska. The authentic, original National Scenic Byways www.byways.org/explore/byways/2228

photos eft downtown buildings and historic local

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 27 28j ol a nda lake, near NATIONAS L CENIC BYWAYS

Stevens Pass Greenway Follow the route of an old Great Northern Railway line while clinging to the winding paths of the Skykomish and Wenatchee rivers.

n this leisurely, scenic slice of the much longer swifts. Stop to enjoy the enchanting Bavarian-style OCascade Loop, travelers will wind through town of Leavenworth. hamlets in the foothills, drive alongside tumbling The Greenway actually begins near Monroe, but rapids and discover what travel used to be like before you should consider a stop at some of the local all the good spots were bypassed. attractions you’ll encounter along the way in Everett The road widens out where it counts, at the top of and . 4,060-foot Stevens Pass, where skiers rip down the slopes and the Cascades reach for the sky. But once In and around Everett you’re safely over the summit, it’s back to two-lane Everett has become an aviation center for scenic leisure again as the byway you through both modern and historic flight. To see today’s pine forests, past steep river gorges and into the latest aviation miracles, you must visit the Future rolling hills and fruit orchards of the sunny side of of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour, www. the Cascades. Outdoor adventurers and gift-shop futureofflight.org. To brush up on historical flight, explorers alike will find exactly what they’re looking see Paul Allen’s Flying Heritage Collection, of for along this byway. vintage military aircraft, www.flyingheritage.com, and the brand new Historic Flight Education Center, Things to do www.historicflight.org, all located at Paine Field. Along the way you’ll pass through small In summer, take a free ferry ride to Jetty Island— communities, each with a unique personality. Look Everett’s 2-mile-long scenic gem. Jetty Island’s for a tiny wayside chapel and a reptile zoo; a honey beaches are among Puget Sound’s sandiest, and the wine meadery and a handcrafted brewery; a caboose waters are a kite boarder’s paradise. Jetty naturalists turned diner that serves up a great cheeseburger and a offer group tours throughout the summer. Visit thick old-fashioned milkshake; and a town that hosts www.ci.everett.wa.us and type “Jetty” into the one of the world’s largest annual gatherings of Vaux’s search field for more information. : photo PATRICK BENNETT

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 29 In late 2011, the Tulalip Tribe opened the Hibulb Cultural Center and Natural History Preserve to honor the

ancestors of local tribes and D eamlinerr at the boeing everett plant teach visitors the tribe’s and share the experience. history and way of life. Check Visit www.vauxhappening.org for www.tulaliptribes-nsn.gov more information. for updated information. Curiosities along the way Monroe For another kind of wildlife, be sure to Home to the , swing into the odd reptile zoo located on Monroe is a small pastoral community US-2 about a mile east of Monroe. You’ll located near the junction of the meet the “reptile man” who has fascinated Snoqualmie and Skykomish rivers. schoolchildren in the area for years with Monroe provides outdoor recreational his collection of snakes, lizards, two- opportunities such as swimming, rafting, headed turtles and other creatures. fishing and other water sports. The You’ll also pass a tiny wayside chapel. nearby river valley is a popular cycling Holding no more than a dozen people, spot. If you ride here, don’t forget to this little house of prayer and meditation bring a basket to carry the fresh produce was built by a local dairy farmer in stevens pass ski resort you’ll find at the many farm stands in 1962 and is open to the public. People this fertile floodplain. often leave personal notes on the pulpit, ranging from the silly to the sublime. Vaux’s swift migration: a local tradition r

Waterfalls and wilderness day hikes u Visit Monroe in September or o T October and experience a rare treat. Tens at every turn of thousands of Vaux’s swifts, migrating A few miles east of Monroe are several oeing & B from the Northwest to , Central rewarding hiking sites. In Gold Bar, enter

America and Venezuela, stop along you’ll find , C the way to roost in a chimney at Frank which offers an easy ascent leading to viation Wagner Elementary School in Monroe. views of gorgeous waterfalls. A 7-mile A light

The sheer volume of the flock and the loop trail above the falls provides a F of speed at which the birds zoom to and fro panoramic view of the valley. re u brings thousands of residents and visitors As you approach the town of Index, t Fu the

together with lawn chairs and picnic Mount Index is directly to the south of of baskets to watch the nightly acrobatics the Skykomish River; it’s an imposing rtesy u o Electric Car Plug-in Project , C right

As major companies like GM, Ford, Honda, Nissan and Toyota as well as a host of small independent top ; manufacturers add new lines of electric vehicles to their fleets, 2011 will see the arrival of hundreds of electric cars to the , all requiring convenient and plentiful plug-in stations. marshall

To enhance in Washington, a series of electric-car fast-charging stations is being john installed along a stretch of US-2 from just north of Seattle in Everett, over the Cascade Mountains, , left

to popular tourist destinations including the cities of Leavenworth, Wenatchee and Lake Chelan. : Visit www.plugincenter.com or call 509-663-5159 for more information and station locations. photos

30 l eavenworth area STE VENS PASS GREENWAY

sight at nearly 6,000 feet. Lush forests Stevens Pass Leavenworth envelop the gorgeous trail to Lake Serene Stevens Pass, at just over 4,000 feet, This Bavarian-themed village appears under Mount Index’s three spires, a is known primarily as a ski resort but completely authentic and enchanting, 7-mile round-trip hike with an elevation also offers abundant hiking trails to nestled in the foothills and bustling gain of about 2,000 feet. enjoy during warmer months. In 2011 with activity. During Maifest in spring, Another option at Mount Index is a the resort added a world-class downhill you can see Tyrolean dancers and check short trail leading to stunning views of mountain-bike trail system, which will out (or enter) the “Looking Good in Bridal Veil Falls, cascading from Lake make Stevens Pass an extremely popular Lederhosen” contest. And of course no Serene. If you opt to drive on instead year-round destination. self-respecting “German” village would of hiking, don’t miss Eagle Falls just be complete without an Oktoberfest beyond Index on the right side of US-2. Lake Wenatchee State Park celebration, and Leavenworth’s is one Here the Skykomish River drops into As US-2 descends on the eastern of the largest in the world outside a handful of deep blue pools. There are slope of the Cascades, get on SR-207 Germany. Also make plans to visit the pullouts, and this is a popular swimming northbound for a brief drive to Lake Washington State Autumn Leaf Festival hole in late summer. Wenatchee State Park. Formed by a on the last weekend of September. glacier and fed by the White River and Skykomish Little Wenatchee River, the lake is Peshastin Pinnacles State Park Turn into the town of Skykomish and perfect for swimming, boating This amazing 34-acre desert park is 6 miles go back to a time when the railroads and fishing. east of Peshastin and features ruled. During boom times, miners, Lake Wenatchee is also a popular slabs and spires reaching 200 feet. The loggers and rail workers made this winter play area, with miles of groomed park offers rock climbing and trails that remote place a raucous hub. Today, cross-country ski trails, a tubing and lead to territorial views of surrounding the historic buildings—including a sledding park and ice fishing on nearby orchards, Basin and wonderful art deco school building— Fish Lake. Rustic camping is available. Lakes, and the Wenatchee River valley. remain, but “Sky” is a bit sleepier. Stop r u

o for lunch alongside the rushing river and T

listen as trains rumble through town (20 eing o Driving Distance 90 MILES a day); you’ll be transported back to a Planning Tips & B

time before this byway existed. T GeTTING here: From Seattle, take Drive time 2 hours nter e I-5 north to Everett, then head east on C

US-2 to Monroe (40 miles / 45 minutes). The Iron Goat Trail plan to spend 1 day iation 90-mile begins at Everett v A If you want to experience more and heads east, ending at Peshastin Pinnacles best seasons* y ear round ight l State Park on the eastern slopes of the Cascade F

railroad history, hike the Iron Goat Trail, f top adventures o Mountains, 10 miles east of Leavenworth.

e which follows a track the Great Northern r u t *The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road Railway abandoned after it built an Gas, Food and Lodging: Lodging, Fu conditions and seasonal closures. he gas and restrooms are easy to find in the t

8-mile tunnel in 1929. Old timbers and f o

towns on this byway. Campgrounds are available but very limited, with few amenities. A Savor tunnels are a constant reminder that Washington Itinerary: Leavenworth is available at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx. tesy r u trains once roared through, and the trail Stop by any of the roadside produce stands to pick up a map of the area’s farms and fruit stands where o C , has wheelchair-accessible and barrier-free visitors are welcome to tour and taste. ight r

sections. Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Part of the Cascade Loop which includes: op t

; Volunteers for Outdoor Washington North Cascade Scenic Byway, Whidbey Scenic Isle Way, and connects to the Mountains to offer guided hikes lasting three to six Sound Greenway and the Swiftwater Corridor via Blewett Pass. arshall

m hours during the summer. No sign-up Local Resources: Stevens Pass Greenway www.stevenspassgreenway.org ohn

j is necessary; just meet at the Skykomish Sky Valley Visitor Information Center www.skyvalleyvic.net , Ranger Station at 9:30 a.m. Check www. Snohomish County Tourism www.snohomish.org l : trailvolunteers.org or call 206-517-3019 Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce www.leavenworth.org Cascade Loop Association www.cascadeloop.com photos eft for schedule information.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 31 32b e ach along highway 112 NATIONAS L CENIC BYWAYS

Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway 112 When you travel along the remote Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway 112 you will encounter the magnificent shoreline of the narrow body of water that connects Puget Sound to the Pacific Ocean.

his is a get-away-from-it-all byway on which for overnight hikes in the park) is the Wilderness Tsalt spray fills the air, trees grow so fast you Information Center in Port Angeles. The WIC is can almost see it happening, and salmon fishermen located within the Olympic National Park visitor congregate at boat launches before dawn. center at 3002 Mount Angeles Road. Call 360-565- Follow a trail of shells along the tide line, hike, 3100 for information or visit www.nps.gov/olym. kayak and fish for flounder off the beach. Look up to see bald eagles, changing skies and old-growth V eteran Memorial Highway Designations Sitka spruce. Look out on the water to see container In a fitting tribute to our nation’s veterans, two ships bound for , surfers plying waves and gray stretches of the Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway have whales migrating. Everywhere you look, you’ll see been designated as “Veteran Memorial Highways.” how the salt water shapes this place. Directly after exiting US-101 west of Port Angeles, SR-112 has been designated the Vietnam Veterans’ Heading west from Port Angeles Memorial Highway. It meets the Korean Veterans’ Driving east to west takes the traveler through Port Blue Star Memorial Highway when it intersects Angeles, part of the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway. This with SR-113 just southeast of Bay. Markers inner harbor city is the entrance point from Victoria, and flags pay tribute to those men and women who B.C. for those traveling by ferry. The William R. served proudly when our nation needed them. Fairchild International Airport is located in Port Angeles, where rental cars are also available. Adventure Route The Olympic Discovery Trail runs from east of The Wilderness Information Center Sequim to , west of Port Angeles. It A good first stop for tips about Olympic National will eventually run from Port Townsend to La Push Park, its trails and backcountry permits (required and be one of the longest trails without motor- odges h r : photo andall

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 33 vehicle access in the United States. Folks in a cedar forest or on the beach. The who want to work up a sweat should bull kelp beds to the west are a halibut check out the Adventure Route segment fishing hot spot, and this 17-acre park of this trail. is also the first of four Whale Trail Mountain bikers, horseback riders observation spots along this byway, see and hikers will get views across the Strait www.thewhaletrail.org. This trail consists of Juan de Fuca, the Olympics and the of a series of marked locations around Valley, if they’re willing to northwest waters where people may pay the price in switchbacks. This 25- glimpse marine mammals. Harbor seals, mile stretch of unpaved single-track and sea lions, otters, and gray whales may be old logging roads zigzags from the west seen from the shores of this byway. side of the Elwha River to the east side of Lake Crescent, where it connects with Salt Creek County Park the Spruce Railroad Trail. Salt Creek Recreation Area County From Port Angeles, head west on Park is a campground that’s counted US-101 for about 5 miles, then take among the best in the state by some a right onto SR-112. The entrance camping guides. This 196-acre park is a and parking for the Adventure Route wonderland of forests, world-renowned segment of the Olympic Discovery Trail rocky tide pools, beaches and panoramic (www.olympicdiscoverytrail.com) are on views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and freshwater bay the left soon after you cross the bridge Island. Recreation includes over the Elwha River. scuba diving, surfing and kayaking. Some intrepid souls even snorkel here— E lwha Dam removal in thick neoprene wet suits, of course. While you’re here, say goodbye to Explore the remnants of Fort the Elwha Dam. The biggest dam Hayden, built during World War II. The removal in U.S. history will provide concrete bunkers that once defended visitors with the chance to watch this the coast with cannons are now relics, t effort to restore what was once one of commandeered by visitors who scramble u yearo

the most productive salmon runs in the to and fro throughout the fort’s mazes. s Northwest. Built without fish ladders, The park is a popular place to observe u marc the Elwha Dam blocks the migration of marine life (look for the Whale Trail , right

spawning salmon up the Elwha River, marker), and it is also an important top

yet each fall they return and circle at the birding site on Audubon Washington’s ; base of the dam in search of a way home. Great Washington State Birding Trail— hodges The removal of the Elwha Dam and Olympic Loop, http://wa.audubon.org. of the upriver is Thrushes, black-headed grosbeaks, randall an opportunity for visitors to witness warblers and oystercatchers are among , conservation in dramatic fashion over the birds found here. In the last week of bottom

the next several years. Visit www.nps.gov September, hundreds of migrating turkey left ; and type “Elwha River” into the search vultures soar overhead. ssman

field for more information. u g Historic Joyce Depot Museum john Freshwater Bay County Park With its worn floorboards, tiny post , top

Located west of milepost 57 on the office and vast selection of penny candy left right, this park includes saltwater beach (yes, really a penny), tiny Joyce hasn’t :

access, a boat launch and picnic areas changed much in the last 100 years. photos

34 l yre river stitf ra o juan de fuca HIGHWAY 112

and tie up. If your exploration accessed from SR-112 just west of Sekiu doesn’t involve a salmon rod, by taking the Hoko-Ozette road. The Clallam Bay Spit Community 9-mile Sand Point/ hiking Beach County Park is an idyllic trail leads to the Ozette Indian Village beachcombing, bird-watching Archeological Site, ancient Native

joyce general store and picnicking spot. American petroglyphs and the Flattery For birders, murrelets and murres Rocks National Wildlife Refuge. To experience this area’s history and lay are prized sightings, while shorebirds, Thousands of the artifacts from the in supplies for the road ahead, make a ducks and gulls are plentiful. In the fall Ozette dig are now on display at the stop (milepost 51) at the Joyce General and spring, thousands of Canada geese, Cultural and Research Museum in Store and Depot Museum. trumpeter swans and sandhill cranes Neah Bay. Traveling west from the Ozette The museum displays include railroad migrate through this area. If you’re more area, stop at Shipwreck Point Natural memorabilia and historical photos and of a trail person, hike the Sekiu Trail, also Resources Conservation Area (milepost 6) artifacts from the small communities in known as the “1-mile beach trail.” The to visit the last Whale Trail marker. the region. The depot was built of Alaska third Whale Trail marker is at the pullout yellow cedar around 1915 and is the last overlooking Sekiu at milepost 15. Visit Neah Bay/Cape Flattery remaining log depot from the Milwaukee www.sekiu.com for more information. The Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway line. Joyce also has a reputation for wild ends at milepost 0, its western terminus. blackberry pie, so be sure to try a slice at Lake Ozette and the Sand Point/ The road continuing to Neah Bay, the a nearby diner. Cape Alava Loop Trail Makah Indian reservation and the most Lake Ozette, part of Olympic northwestern edge of the lower 48 states Pillar Point County Park and Pysht National Park, is the third-largest natural is the Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway Still driving near the shoreline at milepost lake in Washington State and can be found in another section of this guide. 30, stop at Pillar Point County Park for outstanding birding, with very good chances of seeing herons, black-bellied plovers, Planning Tips Driving Distance 61 MILES dunlins, sanderlings, and whimbrels. From here the road heads inland, through a stand T GeTTING here: From Seattle, Drive time 1.5 hours (each way) t follow US-101 west to Port Angeles. u of massive old-growth Sitka spruce in the Allow three hours for this 85-mile leg, which plan to spend 1–2 days earo y

Pysht River drainage. includes a half-hour ferry crossing from either s u Trees logged here were once shipped the Seattle-to-Bainbridge or the Edmonds-to- best seasons y ear round arc Kingston ferry terminal. The 61-mile Strait of m

, out along the Spruce Railroad, which Juan de Fuca Highway 112 trip officially begins a top adventures ight few miles west of Port Angeles on SR-112, along r

is now a recreational trail along nearby

op the north shore of the , and runs west toward Neah Bay. (The scenic byway may also be accessed t

; Lake Crescent. Sitka spruce thrives in midway from US-101 by taking the SR-113 exit 11 miles north of Forks.) Extend your journey and continue exploring wet coastal environments, and these trees the northwest tip of the Olympic Peninsula via the 12-mile Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway. odges h are centuries-old examples of how life on Gas, Food and Lodging: Motels, cabins and other accommodations can be found in Joyce, andall land and water is intertwined along this Clallam Bay, Sekiu, and Neah Bay. Private campgrounds are located along the scenic byway in addition r

, remarkable byway. to campgrounds found in a few parks. Most parks have public restrooms. Locally owned restaurants and cafes are found in each town. Gas and supplies are available at mini-marts in the small communities that dot the route. ottom b

eft Sekiu and Clallam Bay l

Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: ; Sekiu (pronounced SEA-que) and Pacific Coast, Cape Flattery Tribal sman s u Clallam Bay are great spots along this g Local Resources: Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway 112 www.highway112.org route for fishing and bird watching. ohn j Olympic Peninsula Tourism www.olympicpeninsula.org

,

op Charter services are available to take Sekiu-Clallam Bay Chamber www.sekiu.com, Whale Trail www.thewhaletrail.org t

you out for deepwater fishing, and if Makah Nation www.makah.com, Neah Bay Chamber www.neahbaychamber.com l : www.olympicpeninsulawaterfalltrail.com you brought your own boat, Sekiu has Olympic Peninsula Waterfall Trail

photos eft a marina with several places to launch

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 35 36view of mt. rainier NATIONAS L CENIC BYWAYS

White Pass If it’s majesty you crave, this is your route.

itting sentry on your drive are three active find here. There are charming communities to Svolcanoes, Mount St. Helens, Mount Rainier, enjoy, as well as side trips revealing both the majesty and the 12,000-foot-plus . of Mount Rainier and the devastation from the Bring along a swimsuit in the summertime; there 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. are plenty of lakes to take a dip in. A tent will serve Low-elevation lakes, river valleys, foothills, you well as camping is plentiful along the route. subalpine ridges, forests, lush meadows, and open Don’t forget your camera; the meadows, lakes steppes are all accessible through this gateway. Bald and hills of this landscape host animals from elk eagles, elk, mountain goats, black bears, marmots, to bighorn sheep to black bear. Eagles, ospreys and and salmon occupy an array of wild habitats and red-tailed hawks are your constant companions as public lands. July and August are generally sunny and you head east. mild, with heavy snowfall November through April. Be sure to pick up a box of peaches or cherries in Naches. There’s no like an edible one. Lewis and Clark State Park Located between Mary’s Corner and Toledo, an E xperience Washington’s geographic diversity excellent first stop on the road is Lewis and Clark Diversity sums up the experience best. The State Park, 2.5 miles east of I-5 Exit 68 and south nationally designated White Pass Scenic Byway off Jackson Highway. The old north spur of the boasts magnificent driving tours from the lush Trail passed directly through the present evergreen forests of western Washington, up and park site. When pioneers used this road, ramps over the Cascades, and into the sage-covered rolling had to be built over some of the downed logs (six hills that rise up from the drainage on to nine feet in diameter), since they had no saws the state’s east side. capable of cutting the giants. Recreational possibilities—camping, fishing, With one of the last large tracts of lowland old- hunting, hiking, skiing and boating—are easy to growth forest, miles of hiking and horse trails and arsall m j : photo ohn

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 37 EALM R Y ORNing CATCH a lpine view towards Mount St. helens packwood

a campground, the park is open April 1 made reservoir, also offers camping, end of May through October; however, to September 30 and features an 1845 boating and fishing. Hang gliders access to Paradise is available year round. pioneer house, streams, wetlands, and launching from Dog Mountain can You can also access SR-706 and the wet prairie. This is a 1930s-era Civilian often be spotted overhead. You may Nisqually entrance to Mount Rainier Conservation Corps park, and many of spot bobcats, bears, , eagles, hawks, National Park near Ashford from the buildings constructed by the corps herons, and owls, so stay on the lookout. downtown Packwood by taking Skate remain in use today. This park is also a Creek Road (FS-52), a little-known route good, easy birding spot—look for quail, Mossyrock and the that winds gracefully along the creek, pileated woodpeckers and great horned In Mossyrock, garden enthusiasts featuring dozens of small waterfalls and owls. This stretch of byway eastward to will want to check out acres of nearby lush forests, as well as providing some Packwood Lake is part of Audubon’s tulip fields and pick up some bulbs. great fishing and roadside picnicking. Great Washington State Birding Trail— Also, be sure to grab some locally grown For a quick break in Packwood, swing Southwest Loop. blueberries—especially if you visit into the local coffee roaster’s and grab Hungry? One of the best burgers during the annual Blueberry Festival a snack, a cup of “joe” for the road and in the state can be found about held the first weekend in August. a pound of beans as a gift or robust 4 miles east of Mary’s Corner. The Cowlitz River, which runs reminder of the journey. Ask around; any local will point through this area, provides several Towering waterfalls (Narada is a you in the right direction. excellent opportunities to fish for salmon favorite stop) and interpretive nature tobin and steelhead. Ask at a local mini-mart trails (check out the Trail of Shadows at ben Alpine lakes offer plenty of or outfitter for the best fishing holes or Longmire) never cease to bring a sense ; great recreation where you can view spawning salmon in of wonder to the adventure and are sheckler For year-round family fun, Ike Kinswa the fall. easily accessible via short hikes from the / levy

State Park, 4 miles north of Mossyrock, main highway. During the winter this ; hugs 46,000 feet of shoreline on the Head up to Mount Rainier road terminates at the historic Paradise marshall

freshwater Mayfield Lake. Private, Driving on SR-7 north from Morton , at the very base of the grand lady,

forested campsites have plenty of appeal, to Elbe (where you can take a steam- Mount Rainier. In the summer months, john ; and the heated cabins near the lakeshore train ride aboard the Mount Rainier the Paradise Valley Road connects to the tobin are a steal at $60 bucks a night. Hiking, Scenic Railroad) leads to the 115-mile- Stevens Canyon Road. ben swimming, fishing (trout, bass, tiger long West Side Loop around the On the way down, the side trip to , right muskie), water-skiing and boating Nisqually area and Big Bottom Valley, the Grove of the Patriarchs trail on to

(from two ramps) are among the many featuring some of the Mount Rainier Stevens Canyon Road (closed in winter) left recreational options. area’s greatest spectacles. This loop route between Paradise and SR-123 is highly :

Nearby Riffe Lake, a massive man- to Paradise is typically open from the recommended. Here an easy 1.5-mile photos

38 whiteass p

Come winter, opt for a trek by snowshoe or cross-country skis. The route between Rimrock and Naches winds past valleys and canyons with several scenic viewpoints. There’s plenty of riverfront camping here as well.

white pass ski resort The final leg of White Pass Scenic Byway, The recently just before Naches, will be enriched by a expanded White Pass Ski stop at Oak Creek Wildlife Area, where Resort goes into high gear during the unusually close-up views of hundreds of winter with alpine and cross-country elk (during winter) and bighorn sheep skiing. A day lodge rents skis and (all year) at feeding stations are a thrill. packwood snowboards and has food, lockers and There’s non-mammal viewing, too; a bar. Visit www.whitepassbyway.com woodpeckers, raptors, and round-trip boardwalk trail leads for a complete list of lodging options are plentiful. you through a stand of massive along the byway. 1,000-year-old Douglas firs, western Try Chinook Pass on the way back red cedars and western hemlock up Down the eastern slopes A great full-day loop drive will take to 50 feet in circumference. A short distance beyond the summit you up and over two of our state’s most of White Pass, you’ll see a trailhead with rugged and beautiful byways, White Pass Mount St. Helens detour access to the Pacific Crest Trail, which along US-12 and Chinook Pass on SR- Between Morton and Packwood, runs 2,650 miles along the Cascade 410 for the return trip. Chinook Pass is near Randle, you can head south on Mountain Range from Canada to closed from approximately Thanksgiving SR-131 to NF-25 for excellent Mexico. A few miles further, you’ll find through Memorial Day, so check for views of log-strewn Spirit Lake, Mount beautiful Rimrock and Clear lakes. In travel updates before you head out. You St. Helens and Mount Adams from the summer, enjoy hiking, camping, can read more about the Chinook Pass Windy Ridge. An extraordinary view of fishing, boating, and wildlife watching. Scenic Byway elsewhere in this guide. the 1980 eruption’s devastation of 200 square miles of green forest—which turned the area into a gray wasteland— Planning Tips Driving Distance 119 MILES simply must be seen to be believed. U.S. Forest Service interpretive presentations T GeTTING here: From Seattle go Drive time 2.5 hours obin t (early July through Labor Day, 10 a.m. south on I-5 for approximately 100 en plan to spend 1/2 – 2 days b miles and take Exit 68 east onto US-12. The

; to 4 p.m.) are a great way to get a sense White Pass Scenic Byway corridor crosses the of the St. Helens story. Add four hours Cascades, from just south of Chehalis to the best seasons* WE INT R, SUMMER, fall heckler s

/ intersection of US-12 and SR-410 on the “dry for this exceptional round-trip detour. top adventures evy side” of Washington State near Naches. l

; *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for winter Y ear-round activities Gas, Food and Lodging: and early spring road conditions. arshall rentals, cozy cabins, motels and bed- m

Sure, there’s plenty to keep you and-breakfast accommodations, in varying price ranges, are plentiful along the byway, as are numerous ohn j busy in spring and summer, but winter

; campgrounds. Five rest areas are spread over the 119-mile journey, as are park-your-car viewpoints. Gas is recreational opportunities are abundant obin plentiful along the route, but whenever traveling into high mountain country, it’s always a good idea to top off t

en in these mountains as well. These include the tank whenever you get a chance. Make sure to ask around to find out where the locals gather; that’s where b

, snow camping, snowboarding, Nordic the best food and conversation will be found. ight r

o skiing and general snow play at Paradise, t connected or Nearby Local Resources:

an area that includes a ranger station, Scenic Byways: White Pass Scenic Byway www.whitepassbyway.com l : a visitor center and the Paradise Inn Chinook Pass, Yakima River Canyon Visit Rainier www.visitrainier.com

photos eft (which closes in early October).

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 39 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

cape flattery

Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway ...breathe deeply, and take the time to get to know this stunning piece of land shaped by the rhythms of the Pacific.

good wool sweater is almost always it’s the purest air they’ve found The Makah Nation has sustained its A in order here. So are binoculars, a anywhere. So breathe deeply, and take people and culture with the bounty of change of shoes and pants that can be the time to get to know this stunning the land and sea for millennia. Today, rolled up to escape the crashing waves as piece of land shaped by the rhythms of the local economy relies heavily on you walk along the beach. the Pacific. commercial and recreational fishing. Neah You’ll see surfboards on top of cars On this route, the only tribal- Bay is a place where 40-pound Chinook and trucks pulling skiffs on trailers. The designated byway in Washington State, can still be pulled from the water, and water here is packed with life; otter, seal visitors have an opportunity to stop and when the salmon are in, there’s a buzz and whale sightings are commonplace. learn more about the Makah Nation. in the air as the place gets busy. The air here is so clean that scientists The tribe’s history and culture are at one Neah Bay is also known for its great from the with the land and the water. halibut season in spring, and there are collect air samples from Cape Flattery— plenty of other bottom fish like ling T raditional homeland of cod, kelp greenling and sea bass in local

cape flattery trail the Makah Nation waters. Chartered services are available. t The Makah Indian Reservation If you enjoy smoked salmon, this is u yearo

encompasses the northwest tip of the where you’ll find shops selling some of s continental United States. Neah Bay is the finest in the world. u marc

a notch in the point where the Pacific , Ocean and the Strait of Juan de Fuca Sandy stops near Cape Flattery bottom meet. Sea lions bask in the sun near tied- Before driving to Cape Flattery, stop ; off commercial fishing boats. Gulls make and explore some of the long sandy enschel

a ruckus overhead, while the village stretches of beach in the area, such as H

of Neah Bay sits quietly, as it has for Hobuck Beach just west of the Cape alerie generations, observing the comings and Flattery Tribal Center in Neah Bay. , V top goings at the entrance to Washington’s A prime spot for birding from the fall :

inland waters. through spring, Hobuck boasts thousands photos

40 cpettea fla ry tribal

of gulls (California, glaucous-winged, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., the center includes a weekend of August, when the annual mew, Thayer’s) and is part of Audubon replica long house, cedar dugout canoes, Makah Days Celebration takes place. Washington’s Great Washington State whaling and fishing gear, and the tools (Check www.makah.com for specific Birding Trail—Olympic Loop. Here you of everyday life in the preindustrial age. dates.) Traditional dancing, singing, can rent a cabin or find camping and RV You’ll come away with a deep respect canoe races and Slahal games are all part sites that face the ocean. Hobuck also for the way of life and traditions that the of the free event. Attend this celebration is popular with kayakers and is a good tribe still honors today. Art and baskets and learn why neighboring tribes beginner surfing beach. by Native weavers are available dubbed these people “Makah,” which There’s another beach here that to purchase in the center’s store. means “generous with food.” You’ll find many magazines and television travel A good time to travel the Cape everything from fry bread to traditional channels have declared one of the most Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway for the cedar-staked salmon cooked around open spectacular in the world. Shi Shi Beach cultural experience is during the third fires. Nobody leaves Makah Days hungry. (pronounced shy-shy), approximately 8 miles southwest of Neah Bay, is well worth a visit for its coastal drama, its timelessness and the feeling of sanctuary it imparts to visitors. Access begins with a 3.3-mile hike leading to an unspoiled 2-mile crescent of beach with arches, sea stacks and a limitless horizon.

T he hike to Cape Flattery The Cape Flattery Trail is an easy three- quarter-mile hike along a cedar-planked path that leads you to the most western point in the lower United States. At trail’s end are observation perches with exquisite Planning Tips Driving Distance 12 MILES views of the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary, Tatoosh Island and the T GeTTING here: Neah Bay is Drive time 30iu m n tES approximately 150 miles from Seattle on historic Cape Flattery Lighthouse, first lit plan to spend 1–2 days in 1857. Migrating birds and whales can the northwest tip of the Olympic Peninsula. Take a Washington State Ferry from downtown Seattle best seasons* y ear round often be seen here, as well as sunbathing (Seattle-Bainbridge Island Ferry) or Edmonds otters, seals and sea lions. (Edmonds-Kingston Ferry) to SR-104, cross the Hood top adventures Bridge, then go on to US-101, past T he Makah Cultural Blyn, Sequim and Port Angeles. Take SR-112 along the Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic Byway, not just to the end of the road but to the end of the t u and Research Center . Driving time one way from Seattle is approximately five hours. The byway begins where SR-112 meets earo

y the eastern boundary of the Makah Reservation (at that point, SR-112 also becomes known as Bayview Avenue)

For an engrossing look at the history s u of the indigenous people who call this and ends at the rocky outcrops of Cape Flattery’s coastline. arc m

, place home, don’t miss the nation’s first Gas, Food and Lodging: Beach resorts, motels, RV parks and campgrounds are the primary lodging tribal museum, the Makah Cultural and on this route. There are small local restaurants along the way. Be sure to purchase a $10 recreation ottom b

; Research Center. The 10,000-square-foot permit covering all outdoor activities on the reservation at the Tribal Center, the Makah Marina, Washburn’s General Store or Makah Mini-Mart, where gas is also available. museum displays thousands of artifacts nschel e H discovered in the archaeological dig of Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways:

lerie Strait of Juan de Fuca, Pacific Coast

a the 3,000-year-old Ozette Indian fishing , village near Cape Alava. t Local Resource: : Open daily (except Thanksgiving, Makah Nation www.makah.com

photos op Christmas V and New Year’s Day) from

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 41 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

Cascade Loop The Cascade Loop Byway is a 440-mile love letter to Washington praising her natural beauty and charisma.

rom the waterfront city of Everett, head Head east on US-2, and plan to spend a country trails double as mountain-biking Feast over Stevens Pass, where alpine little time in historic downtown Snohomish. and hiking trails in the summer. Here’s a villages welcome and snowy spires beckon. This community features an array of turn- true Northwest touch; when you’re done Drop from pine forests into fertile of-the-century architectural styles. Many with lunch here, you can dump leftovers orchards and take in the pink haze of of these buildings now house antique into a compost bin. This ski area is apple blossoms in the spring. Pick up shops, bakeries and restaurants. committed to sustainability as well as luscious seasonal fruit from a roadside In Monroe, tractor and tool buffs deep powder turns. stand then take a dip in Lake Chelan might want to check out the Western Continuing over the summit and down as the sun bakes high desert hills. Play Heritage Center, a museum that houses the eastern slopes, consider taking the cowboy in Winthrop. useful items from the past. Here kids cutoff on SR-207 at Coles Corner to Lake Climb west over more mountains, can see what a potato digger looks like Wenatchee State Park—500 gorgeous and then descend into and grind wheat into flour. Continue acres on the glacier-fed Lake Wenatchee with its acres of blooming tulips. At to climb past tiny communities with and Wenatchee River. There’s an inviting last, cross over dramatic Deception Pass names like Sultan, Startup and Goldbar. little golf course here with tree-lined to , where gentle hills Waterfall lovers may be distracted by fairways and mountain ponds ready to and seaside towns offer a soft place to this stretch; Wallace, Sunset, Bridal Veil drown a ball or two. During winter, the land. If yours is a passing attraction to and Deception falls are all beautiful and golfing gives way to Nordic skiing. (See Washington State, watch out; this byway easily accessible. also: Stevens Pass Greenway) may turn it into true love forever. C rossing Stevens Pass Leavenworth Start in Everett, head for the hills Stevens Pass (elevation 4,056 feet) A quaint Bavarian-themed village Start the Cascade Loop Scenic Byway straddles the border of King and Chelan located on US-2 in a Swiss -like in the bustling port city of Everett, home counties. The Stevens Pass Ski Area is setting, Leavenworth has something of the largest public marina on the West one of the state’s premier alpine-skiing fun going on in every season. Enjoy Coast and the place where Boeing jets destinations. An innovative terrain park an outdoor theater, concerts and are born (tour the plant; it’s the largest draws snowboarders from all over the wine tasting in summer, a legendary building in the world). nation, and miles of groomed cross- Oktoberfest in the fall and sleigh rides,

su o rd42ough mountain, north cascades national park csl a cade oop

tubing and cross-country skiing in Forest lands, Lake Chelan has everything winter. Shops and restaurants galore a camper, angler, explorer or sunbather round out this necessary stop. could want. If you write it off as just another Play golf, tan, water ski, swim (yes, “theme” town, you’ll be making a it’s cold), or take a cruise to Stehekin at huge mistake. Nestled between the the lake’s northern tip. Accessible only Snoqualmie and Wenatchee national by boat or seaplane, this tiny village with forests with access to the Alpine Lakes a permanent population of 75 boasts a Wilderness, this is rock-climbing, bakery, overnight accommodations and white-water rafting, kayaking and some of the best “get away from it all” hiking paradise. So drink the beer, eat remote beauty in the state. the bratwurst and buy the nutcracker, but don’t forget to look to the rugged Loup Loup and Twisp mountains surrounding you for a true From Chelan, drive north to Pateros Washington “Alps” experience. on SR-153 then west toward Twisp and Winthrop, or continue north along a W enatchee stretch of the Okanogan Trails Scenic From Leavenworth, continue on Byway to the town of Okanogan and US-2 to Wenatchee. Located on the then head west on SR-20 over Loup Columbia River, Wenatchee is best known Loup Pass. In winter, a small ski area and for its apples, but the nearby river and a wildlife feeding station provide some odge d surrounding mountains provide endless good distractions along this scenic route. onte m opportunities for hiking, biking, skiing Either road will lead to Twisp, a small ,

and wildlife watching. community known for the nation’s first ight r

base, charming ; F ollowing the Columbia River downtown and local theatre troupe. lverman i S to Lake Chelan

W inthrop and the stunning chael Follow US-97 north to one of the i M state’s recreational magnets, Lake Methow Valley , Chelan. Surrounded by thousands of In Washington’s “Old West” town of b acres of North Cascades National Park Winthrop, you’ll find more than wooden :

and Okanogan/Wenatchee National sidewalks and swinging saloon doors. photos ottom

wenatchee area

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 43 diablo lake s lkagit val ey

Look for restaurants serving locally see the byway on which you just arrived, at Howard Miller Steelhead Park, porter

grown fare, walk (or ski) the 124 miles unfurling down the mountain. making this area home to the largest andy , , of trails running through town that links Access to the Pacific Crest Trail is population of bald eagles in the lower bottom the entire Methow Valley or head a few nearby as well as hundreds of its lesser- 48 states. There is an eagle interpretive ; miles north to Pearrygin Lake State Park known cousins, leading to thousands of center open December and January, tadler to camp, fish or water ski. miles of wilderness exploration in both and rafting guides can take you on float S

both Okanogan-Wenatchee National trips to view the eagles and other winter ichael I nto the North Cascades Forest and North Cascades National Park. migratory fowl. Old farmsteads and rolling fields The Diablo and Ross and their For more information on the communities will give way to pine forests as you backwaters are worthwhile stops along and sights along the route, see the North

drive northwest through the this route, especially when minerals in Cascades Scenic Byway section. BENNETT; PATRICK ; M park Methow Valley on SR-20, then head up the runoff turn these waters vivid green. into the rugged Tickets for interpretive boat tours on T hrough the Skagit and toward national North Cascades. Diablo Lake are available in Newhalem, Fidalgo and Whidbey islands Pull over at the just a couple miles west of , Leaving the North Cascades, you’ll cascades www.skagittours.com. While there, stop descend gently through the foothills

overlook; a short at the North Cascades National Park into small communities, lush farmland north ; ; paved path leads visitor center for information on other and the tulip fields of the Skagit Valley. bennett

to spectacular sights in the area. The visitor center Look for colorful splashes of yellow views of Liberty setting is ruggedly beautiful and some (daffodils) or red (tulips) on the horizon patrick Bell Mountain believe a destination unto itself (open if you come through in March or , right and the Early May to October). April—the only place that grows to Winters In the winter, bald eagles congregate more flower bulbs than the Skagit left Spires. to feed on fish along the Valley is Holland. :

You’ll also between Marblemount and Rockport A short 5-mile (one-way) detour from photos

pasayten44 and lake view ridge csl a cade oop

and beaches all around make Whidbey Depart Whidbey Island via the a destination unto itself. As the Clinton-Mukilteo ferry to return to the culmination of the Cascade Loop Scenic Puget Sound area, or continue west via Byway, it gilds the lily—or, in this case, the Coupeville-Port Townsend ferry. the tulip. (See also: Whidbey Island See www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries for rate Scenic Isle Way.) and schedule information.

deception pass bridge orter

p SR-20 into La Conner will ndy

a reveal an enchanting waterfront

, community—part fishing village, part Driving Distance 440 MILES ottom b

; artist colony—on the banks of the Drive time 10–12 hours Channel. The little stores adler t S are intermixed with a world-class quilt plan to spend 2–4 days chael i museum and restaurants that feature best seasons* sr p ing, summer, fall local ingredients. Planning Tips top adventures

F idalgo and Whidbey islands T GeTTING here: The 440-mile route *A 36-mile portion of the route along the North Cascades Highway contains three of the state’s designated (SR-20) from milepost 134 to 171 closes during the winter PATRICK BENNETT; PATRICK M ; The byway winds north to Anacortes (mid-November to early May). Check www.dot.wa.gov for road scenic byways described in this guide. It begins ark conditions and seasonal closures. p or heads south across Deception Pass to 30 miles north of Seattle in Everett, then heads Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island. across the Stevens Pass Greenway to Wenatchee, continuing north past Lake Chelan toward the southern end of the ational n A few miles from I-5, Anacortes on Okanogan Scenic Byway. Continue westward through Winthrop and the stunning Methow Valley, taking the North is headquarters for whale Cascades Scenic Byway through Washington Pass before dropping back down to the west side past the turquoise-

ascades green backwaters of the Ross and Diablo dams. The route continues on SR-20 through the Skagit Valley before c watching excursions. Take a cruise to see crossing Fidalgo Island to Anacortes then back to SR-20 and south over Deception Pass and heading south along orth

n a resident pod of orcas or visiting gray the Whidbey Scenic Isle Way. A 20-minute trip across the sound on the Clinton-Mukilteo Ferry completes this loop.

; whales. Downtown Anacortes has 70 Gas, Food and Lodging: Accommodations of every sort are spread over the byway’s 440 miles, ennett b as are restaurants, gas stations and restrooms. Savor Washington itineraries for the area are available life-sized murals, restaurants, antiques and a waterfront park. at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx atrick p

, If you’re heading to Oak Harbor, this connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Stevens Pass Greenway, North Cascades Scenic ight r route crosses the soaring Deception Highway, Whidbey Scenic Isle Way, Chuckanut Drive, Okanogan Trail, Coulee Corridor o t Pass Bridge onto the second-longest l

: Local Resource: island in the United States, Whidbey Cascade Loop Association www.cascadeloop.com photos eft Island. Quaint towns, delicious mussels

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 45 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

M T. si (left); adams bench winery (right)

Cascade Valleys This convenient ramble follows SR-202 from Woodinville along the fertile Valley.

trail to the bottom FALLS Q A ative Americans established (and counting), the Woodinville SNOU lmie Nthis route, and the culmination wine industry attracts over a half- amateur bike racers at the only of today’s byway, North Bend, was a million visitors annually. banked racing velodrome in the state. seasonal meeting place for local tribes Visitors will also find a variety Dog people will love the 40-acre and the end of the swim for salmon of entertaining activities including off-leash play area, and this urban oasis unable to continue upstream past outdoor concerts in an estate setting, is also home to plenty of wildlife— Snoqualmie Falls. hot-air-balloon rides and exploring on muskrats, coyotes, river otters and There is no roughing it on this road foot, horseback or wheels along the painted turtles can be seen most of the trip. Taste local wine and handcrafted picturesque Trail. year. More than 150 bird species have ale; dine in some of the Northwest’s Wined out? One of the nation’s largest been sighted at the park, including barn most exclusive restaurants; attend open- handcrafted brewing facilities is also owls that occasionally take up residence air concerts by world famous performers. located nearby. in the windmill. Even adventures are leisurely; take a picnic to Marymoor Park and watch the Redmond and Marymoor Park T he road to Fall City dizzying bicycle races at the state’s only Following SR-202 south for 6 miles, This entire byway runs along a fertile velodrome or stand in the mist of the you will arrive in Redmond, a great corridor that’s a gardener’s delight— 270-foot Snoqualmie Falls, then stroll to blend of urban-rural experiences. Serene, there are multiple nurseries and a morris

the nearby resort for its legendary four- meandering bike paths, outdoor concerts, bamboo farm. And at the intersection aaron course breakfast. family events and fabulous shopping all of SR-202 and SR-203 is Fall City. This ,

make it a good stop on the byway. is organic farm central. For generations, left W oodinville You can’t miss Marymoor Park, families have come to this area’s u-pick Located 17 miles northeast of Seattle Redmond’s recreational hub. Located on farms for strawberries, blueberries, in the Sammamish Valley, Woodinville the shores of Lake Sammamish, it offers pumpkins or whatever is in season. This combines small-town charm with some something for everyone. Bring your is where many of Puget Sound’s most of the top-rated wineries in the state. own lawn chairs for outdoor movies in exclusive restaurants source their farm- : TOP, PATRICK BENNETT;

With over 50 wineries and tasting rooms the summer, or cheer professional and fresh ingredients. photos

46 CS A CADE VALLEYs

There is a nice little family-friendly N orth Bend and Mount Si Si, the mountain in North Bend’s golf course in the heart of town and The cities of Snoqualmie and North backyard. Said to be the most-climbed another one across the river heading Bend will look familiar to anyone who mountain in the United States, Mount toward Snoqualmie. Both are affordable recalls David Lynch’s somewhat macabre Si offers glorious views from its summit, and are perfect, non-intimidating television series “Twin Peaks.” Here, you’ll extending all the way to Puget Sound. courses for people trying to learn or find the restaurant referred to in Agent With a 3,700-foot elevation change, the work on their game. Cooper’s famous line, “A good cherry pie 8-mile round-trip hike is particularly and a “damn fine cup of coffee.” popular on summer days, but it’s also H eading toward Snoqualmie Falls Outdoor enthusiasts have long flocked open during winter and spring. From the heart of Fall City, drive to North Bend for its extensive trail The trail leads to the summit ridge across the bridge over the Snoqualmie system including the 29-mile hiking at the base of the so-called “Haystack.” River and follow SR-202 to the right and biking Trail. But From there, the short ascent to the (southeast). In a few miles, you’ll the best-known trail here is the one that actual summit is a scramble that can be encounter one of Washington’s most takes visitors to the summit of Mount dangerous in wet or snowy conditions. popular attractions. Snoqualmie Falls is a 270-foot-high waterfall with vantage points above, below and beside the waterworks. Most people view the falls from the easily accessible upper pavilion, but try the trail to the bottom. It’s steep and a mile long, but worth every step. You will never forget the feeling of standing under a curtain of spray from the falls, especially during spring when runoff thunders over the drop.

Snoqualmie’s railway museum An excellent stop for families passing through downtown Planning Tips Driving Distance 28 MILES Snoqualmie is the Northwest This scenic drive begins Railway Museum, with its 1890s T GeTTING here: Drive time 1 hour in Woodinville. You can reach Woodinville by depot and 70 machines including following SR-522 eastward from either I-5 Exit 171 or plan to spend ha lf day steam locomotives, freight cars and I-405 Exit 23. best seasons* sr p ing, summer, fall coaches. In spring, summer and fall, Gas, Food and Lodging: top adventures the museum operates a heritage Accommodations in Woodinville, Redmond and North Bend are plentiful and range from high-end railroad with 5.5-mile train rides *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road resorts to campgrounds and RV parks. You can enjoy orris aboard antique railroad coaches conditions and seasonal closures. m gourmet dining in Woodinville or at Snoqualmie Falls, through the Upper Snoqualmie Valley, aron but the small local restaurants along the route are where you have the best chance to connect with the locals. In a

, www.trainmuseum.org. North Bend, don’t forget to order a slice of that cherry pie. You’ll find a gas station in every community along the way. eft l The Northwest Railway Museum Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: also displays Indian and pioneer Mountain to Sound Greenway, Swiftwater Corridor artifacts, as does North Bend’s Snoqualmie Valley Historical Local Resources: Woodinville Tourism www.ci.woodinville.wa.us/play/tourism.asp Museum. Both are dedicated to Redmond Tourism www.experienceredmond.com

: Snoqualmie Valley Chamber of Commerce www.snovalley.org/vg_attractions.html preserving the area’s native and Outside Seattle www.outsideseattle.org

photos pioneer TOP, PATRICK BENNETT; stories.

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 47 stateni sce c byways

C huckanut Drive

view from chuckanut drive

Chuckanut Drive A premier byway sometimes referred to as Washington’s Big Sur (perhaps Little Sur would be more fitting), the route hugs the sheer sandstone cliffs of the Chuckanut Mountains.

he only place where the Cascade deli with gourmet fare and a couple of parked precariously along the narrow T Mountains meet the sea, friendly taverns. Recently, many of the shoulder. A shellfish farm at the hairpin Chuckanut Drive overlooks Bay buildings that line the streets have been turn is a great opportunity to pick up and offers gorgeous views of the San purchased by a group of artists who live, some fresh oysters, mussels and clams. Juan Islands and Chuckanut Bay. work and display their art in their own Stroll through tulip fields in spring or storefront galleries. O utdoor recreation playground find a cozy restaurant and feast on fresh The Shore Trail, a 2.5- Chuckanut Mountain is among the best shellfish. Search for treasures in shops or mile bicycle and pedestrian pathway, mountain-biking areas in the state and is for beach glass along the water. Take a and are nearby also a popular hang-gliding location. hike up past the or down along and provide wonderful access to the Wildlife abounds from seashore to a white-sand beach. Chuckanut Drive is mudflats, shorebirds and sea life. Padilla mountaintop. Starfish and sea lions one of those byways that will leave you and Samish bays support one of the are common on the beaches, and if wanting to linger just a little longer. largest known wintering populations of you’re lucky, you may see the splash of peregrine falcons in North America and a passing orca pod. The hillside forests Bow- Edison are part of the Audubon Washington’s shelter foxes, coyotes, , deer, and The roadside communities of Bow Great Washington State Birding Trail— elk. This unique mountain and seashore and Edison are noteworthy destinations Cascade Loop. environment is a premier birding area. In for art lovers and foodies alike. Tiny fact, it’s rated as a five-star raptor viewing Bow has three buildings; and they’re O n to Chuckanut Drive spot by the Audubon Society. all worth a visit. One is home to a Just before you enter Chuckanut Drive NTON; JOHN MARSHALL U A

Blanchard Mountain b

renowned artisan cheese maker, one is proper, you’ll pass the childhood home a quirky junk store and the third is an of Edward R. Murrow, the legendary The “jewel of the Chuckanuts” is brett unassuming remodeled house where radio and television broadcast pioneer. Blanchard Mountain. Hiking trails you’ll find what is widely regarded as one Once on the winding road, you’ll pass a abound here, but the mountain is of the Northwest’s finest restaurants. restaurant that is low in curb appeal but especially famous for the demanding Nearby downtown Edison has two gets high marks from discerning diners, 2,000-foot climb to its Oyster Dome : LEFT TO RIGHT,

great farm-to-market bakeries, a small as you’ll note from the line of cars summit, a sheer cliff reached by a trail photos

48 c nhucka ut drive

leads to the shoreline, with its views stop and browse. Walk the cobblestone of Chuckanut Bay and Clark’s Point. streets of the historic district, with About 1.5 miles south of , restored nineteenth-century brick the North Chuckanut Mountain buildings now housing bookstores, Trailhead, located on Chuckanut boutiques and restaurants, and go back Drive, opens onto a meandering to a time when Fairhaven was predicted 5-mile path with extraordinary to become a major city.

ut shore sightseeing for hikers and A vibrant seasonal farmers’ market ch kanuc equestrians. The final 3 miles comprise and the Alaska Ferry terminal are maintained by volunteers. the Chuckanut Ridge Trail, where among the other attractions of this Pass bat caves on the way up, gulp in the area wildlife includes red , deer, popular destination. For a traveler salty air and appreciate the only place in woodpecker and belted kingfisher. looking for a full-day side trip, the state where you can hike a Cascade passenger-only cruises for the mountain peak whose feet are in the T he Historic Fairhaven District San Juan Islands depart from the sea. Along this tough 6-mile round trip, Built in the 1890s, the Fairhaven Fairhaven Cruise Terminal. watch for abrupt drop-offs and enjoy district provides a great opportunity to the spectacular views of the , the Skagit River flats and the San Juans. Planning Tips

Larrabee State Park T GeTTING here: The southern entrance of Chuckanut Drive is Six miles south of Bellingham, about an hour north of downtown Seattle, just Larrabee became Washington’s first state north of Burlington at I-5 Exit 231, or you can park in 1915. With two freshwater lakes, access it from the north by taking Exit 250 into Fairhaven. Chuckanut Drive is a narrow, two- dense woodlands, sandstone formations, lane cliff-hanger road with almost no shoulder 14 miles of multiple-use trails, wetlands, and is shared by many bicyclists, so please creeks and the beaches of Samish and drive slowly and use caution.

Chuckanut bays to explore, this park can Gas, Food and Lodging: Hotels, keep a family busy for days. motels, bed-and-breakfasts and gas One of Larabee’s biggest attractions stations are available at either end of the drive. is the Interurban Trail, a route once Camping is available at . From Bow-Edison to Fairhaven, this is an area traveled by an electric train. Now a that takes great pride in its locally grown food; favorite path for joggers, walkers and you’ll find abundant boutique restaurants, farm bikers, it runs a lovely 6 miles through stands and shellfish growers along this byway. Bring an empty cooler. mossy maples to Old Fairhaven . A Savor Washington itinerary: Skagit Valley is available at www.agr.wa.gov/ T eddy Bear Cove Beach and North Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx Chuckanut Mountain Trailhead Driving Distance 21 MILES Connected or Nearby A little north of Larrabee, accessible on Drive time 40iu m n tES Scenic Byways:

TON; JOHN MARSHALL foot via the Interurban Trail—trailhead Cascade Loop, Mount Baker, N

U plan to spend 3–4 hours

A North Cascades, b

parking is available on Chuckanut Whidbey Scenic Isle Way best seasons* y ear round rett Drive—Teddy Bear Cove (once a popular b nude beach, but now family friendly) is Local Resources: top adventures a stunning white-sand beach built over Chuckanut Drive Association www.chuckanutdrive.com centuries with crushed clamshells. A * The route is open year round but can be closed periodically for road maintenance. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism : switchback trail among madrona trees seasonal closures. www.bellingham.org

photos past LEFT TO RIGHT, the ruins of an old brick factory

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 49 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

C olumbia River Gorge Scenic Byway

cob lum ia river

Columbia River Gorge The Columbia River cut this dramatic between the Cascade Mountains on its way to the Pacific Ocean eons ago.

ewis and Clark explored this path N orth Bonneville and Beacon Rock linking Oregon and Washington and L centuries ago. Today, modern The city of North Bonneville is a good provides splendid views of the canyon, travelers are awestruck at the natural headquarters for fishing, hiking and outdoor making it well worth the $1 toll. The beauty of the Columbia River Gorge exploration. Greenleaf, Bass, Kidney and bridge is also the river crossing of the Scenic Byway. Tule lakes are all within city limits, and Pacific Crest Trail. Drive though a land where white the Pacific Crest Trail skirts near the edge water leaps over cliffs to join the of the town at the Bridge of the Gods. C olumbia Gorge Interpretive Columbia River. Watch shadows play Three miles west of town, Beacon Rock Center Museum in the creases of 4,000-foot-high basalt State Park has a switchback path with The Columbia Gorge Interpretive walls. Hike to breathtaking vistas of handrails to the top of the impressive Center Museum, in the town of Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams and 848-foot Beacon Rock. Atop this core of Stevenson, tells both the geological and . Join the rush of the water; an ancient volcano, you’ll be rewarded the human history of this region. kayak or windsurf between the river’s with spectacular views of the gorge and In the museum’s Creation Theatre, you wide banks. The mighty Columbia will Bonneville Dam. Mentioned in the can experience the cataclysmic formation leave its mark on you, just as it has on Lewis and Clark journals, this is also the of the gorge during a 12-minute movie this land. location where the corps first noticed complete with teeth rattling surround tidal influences and knew they were sound. This museum also houses the C aptain William Clark Park getting close to the ocean. world’s largest rosary collection. See www. Traveling west to east, the byway The Bonneville Dam, built between columbiagorge.org for more information. begins in Washougal, the “Gateway to 1933 and 1943, is also a must-see the Gorge.” The Lewis and Clark Corps attraction, with tours and interpretive D owntown Stevenson of Discovery established a camp on activities throughout the day. Stevenson boasts several locally owned Cottonwood Beach in this area for six days eateries, plus a riverfront trail and park in 1806, and today that site is Captain Bridge of the Gods that’s a popular launch for kite boarding. bennett William Clark Park. Enjoy multi-use trails, This was originally a land bridge A few minutes east of Stevenson, in fishing docks and historic interpretive formed by a and undercut by Carson, look for the last old-time hot- patrick features, and be sure to find the replicas the waters of the Columbia. Today, the spring resort in Washington. Visitors soak : of Lewis and Clark’s dugout canoes. cantilevered steel bridge crosses the river in claw-foot tubs filled with hot mineral photos

50 c arolumbi iver gorge

(pronounced BIN-jin) both have small swimming, wildlife viewing (primarily restaurants with plenty of local flair. deer and elk) and birding opportunities (eagles, hawks, ospreys and wrens). Lyle and the r windes fing theu gorge Continuing eastward, the byway C olumbia Hills State Park water from . Driving enters drier climes and rolling hills. A More than 100 Native American north along nearby Wind River brings historic railroad dating to circa pictographs are tucked in these rocks, you to Windy Ridge, perhaps the most 1905 is located in the tiny town of Lyle including the famed “She Who dynamic view of the Mount St. Helens and provides a great headquarters for Watches,” the logo of the Columbia crater available anywhere. exploring the eastern gorge. Gorge Interpretive Center. While From Lyle, access the Klickitat Trail, many of these pieces are on view near W hite 31 miles of spectacular scenery including the parking lot, some of the sacred Flowing from Mount Adams all carved gorges, abundant wildflowers, art (including “She Who Watches”) is the way into the Columbia River, the rolling oak and ponderosa pine forests only available to view on guided tours columbia river is a favorite year- and great birding opportunities, including on Fridays and Saturdays; visitors must round spot for kayakers and white- winter habitat for bald eagles. For more call 509-767-1159 to make a reservation. water rafters. Several rafting companies information, see www.klickitat-trail.org. in the area offer experienced guides and Maryhill Museum and the white-water thrills. D oug’s Beach State Park Stonehenge replica The White Salmon area also marks A bit east of Lyle, Doug’s Beach The byway ends at the Maryhill the western end of the Columbia Gorge State Park, a 400-acre day-use park Museum of Art, a chateau perched wine-growing region—wine lovers on the Columbia River, is one of the on a bank above the Columbia. will encounter more than 20 regional premier windsurfing sites in the gorge. There’s a replica of Stonehenge near the winemakers as they continue eastward. For non-windsurfers, there’s freshwater museum. See the Yakama Scenic Byway The towns of White Salmon and Bingen fishing (bass, catfish, sturgeon, walleye), for more information.

Getting There: From Seattle, take I-5 south for 165 miles (3 hours) to Vancouver, and then Planning Tips follow the signs to SR-14 eastbound to Camas/Washougal. The 100-mile byway is a slice of SR-14, taken eastward, following the Washington side of the Columbia River. Driving Distance 80 MILES Gas, Food and Lodging: There is a wide range of accommodations and restaurants along this Drive time 2 hours byway. Campers should be prepared for occasional high winds. Gas is plentiful.

plan to spend 1–2 days Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Lewis and Clark Trail, Yakama Scenic Byway best seasons* y ear round Local ResourceS: ennett

b top adventures National Scenic Byways www.byways.org/explore/byways/2235 www.mtadamschamber.com *The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions. Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce p

: Skamania County Chamber of Commerce www.skamania.org Vancouver USA Tourism www.visitvancouverusa.com photos ATRICK

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 51 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

C ranberry Coast

Cranberry Coast Fly a kite, dig a clam, hook a salmon or catch a wave. It’s a route that epitomizes life by the ocean. cnr ra ber y coast

his byway is named in honor of A replica of the Hawaiian Chieftain served as the Coast Guard lifeboat station. Tthe tiny red berry, which once grew is docked here too. Get an up-close In spring, whale-watching tours wild in the region and was farmed by view of these wonderful tall ships, and, depart from the Westport Marina for Finnish immigrants over 100 years ago. if you time it right, you just might close encounters with gray whales as You’ll discover a year-round calendar be able to stow away for a true “argh, they migrate north to their Alaskan of celebration along the Cranberry matey” experience. Scheduled sailings feeding grounds. Coast byway. are available. For more information, visit Westport has been a destination Pick a favorite at the World Class www.historicalseaport.org. for salmon charter fishing for nearly Crab Races and Feed in April at a century. Dungeness crabbing is also Westport; travel a 30-mile garage sale in T he road to Westport popular here. The best crabbing season September; celebrate all things cranberry Following SR-105 toward Westport, is from December through April, and at the Cranberry Harvest Festival in you will encounter a local winery and you can buy or rent crab pots and bait October. Or just take a walk on the tasting room, which is a popular stop for in town. beach. If you find something interesting travelers; the outdoor gardens are filled Surfers have discovered the great on your walk, you can enter it into the with sculptures and art inspired by the waves here, and several shops supplying Annual Driftwood Show & Glass Float winery’s colorful labels. gear, lessons and advice have popped up Roundup in March. Bottle Beach is a great haven for as a result. birders interested in viewing the tens of D owntown Aberdeen thousands of shorebirds passing through G rayland Founded in 1884 and with much of here in late April and late October when Grayland is considered the heart of the the original architecture intact, Aberdeen they return. Audubon Washington Cranberry Coast. Many of the original has survived the rise and fall of both has published a map called the Great cranberry bogs started more than a the timber and the fishing industries to Washington State Birding Trail— century ago by Finnish farmers are still become the area’s economic hub. Southwest Loop. Order one at in operation. The Historical Seaport http://wa.audubon.org. This is a popular place for annual in Aberdeen is home to Washington’s festivals and unique events. The Historic flagship, the Lady Washington, a W estport Grayland Community Hall, built in reproduction of the vessel sailed by A fishing village on Grays Harbor, the 1930s, hosts the Cranberry Harvest Captain Robert Gray (the first American Westport has seaside shopping, a lively Festival in October (including bog tours, a to circumnavigate the world) on his first marina and the Westport Maritime cook-off and a parade), March’s Driftwood : PATRICK BENNETT

Northwest voyage. Museum, set in a 1939 building that once Show (exhibits of driftwood or anything photos

52 crn a berry coast

community and quiet bayside town, is you’ll see evidence of the harvest in the the county seat and home to the Pacific form of massive piles of oyster shells. County Historical Society and Museum. Pick up ultra-fresh Willapa Bay oysters The Pacific County Courthouse, with its at the many seafood markets in the magnificent art-glass dome and murals, surrounding communities. was erected in 1910 and is on the The Willapa Bay National Wildlife National Register of Historic Places. Refuge is popular with outdoor enthusiasts looking to relax by bird W illapa Bay watching, kayaking, hiking and more. The second-largest estuary on the The bay surrounds Long Island, an Pacific Coast, Willapa Bay is a shallow uninhabited part of the refuge accessible body of water formed by the 28-mile by private boat that has only primitive cranberry coast , the sand spit that camping sites. Here you’ll find an juts out north from the Columbia River. ancient stand of western red cedar, black cranberry coast else of interest that floats in from the This pristine estuary is known for bear, elk, , and other protected ocean) and July’s Windriders Kite Festival. growing some of the finest oysters in the wildlife, as well as a spring migration of The story of the juicy little indigenous world. As you wind through this area, over 100,000 shorebirds. fruit is told at Grayland’s Furford

Cranberry Museum (named for a harvesting machine built by Julius Furford), which displays a unique collection of antique equipment and Planning Tips

materials related to the cranberry industry. T GeTTING here: From Seattle, Nearby Grayland Beach State Park is go south on I-5 to US-101 near a 412-acre park with campsites located Olympia, then west on SR-8/US-12 to Aberdeen (110 miles / 2 hours). Follow along spectacular ocean frontage close SR-105 from Aberdeen around the to a mile and a half long. Popular with coast from Westport to South Bend kite flyers and beachcombers, the park on Willapa Bay. is also good for clamming and crabbing, Gas, Food and Lodging: saltwater fishing and birding. Hotels, motels, historic , bed-and-breakfasts, RV parks and T okeland, Raymond and South Bend campgrounds are available along this byway. Be sure to stop by the local As the road winds along the coastline, visitor center to get a restaurant you may want to consider the 4-mile recommendation; there are several detour to Tokeland. The quiet fishing excellent seafood restaurants and village and marina are picturesque. A historic diners throughout the region. historic hotel here provides comfortable Connected or Nearby lodging and is noted for its delectable Scenic Byways: home-cooked meals. Driving Distance 48 MILES Pacific Coast, Hidden Coast Continue south on SR-105 to Drive time 2 hours Local Resources: Raymond, a rural community at the Cranberry Coast Tourism plan to spend 1 day mouth of the Willapa River. Here www.cranberrycoast.net Cranberry Coast Chamber best seasons* y ear round you’ll find more than 200 life-size steel of Commerce sculptures of people and wildlife along www.cranberrycoastcoc.com top adventures US-101 and throughout the century-old Long Beach Peninsula Visitors : downtown district. *The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road Bureau www.funbeach.com conditions and seasonal closures.

photos PATRICK BENNETT South Bend, a pioneer logging

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 53 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

Hidden Coast Prepare to compose H idden Coast your thoughts and write your next novel.

Rockm for ation along the Hidden Coast

he shadows are deeper in this part G rays Harbor National Wildlife Refuge of the Pacific Flyway for migratory birds Tof the world, and the power and This refuge, located near Hoquiam, and is a good place to spot migrating beauty of the ocean invite introspection. protects muddy tide flats on the Grays gray whales as well. Roll up the cuffs of your pants and Harbor Estuary, where thousands of Fishing (red snapper, salmon, tuna walk along the beach or light a fire in shorebirds feed during their round-trip and more) is a popular activity here. the fireplace and relax. This is a place migration periods in spring and summer. Swimming, diving, surfing and use of of tales, long naps and sunsets that Walk a mile from the parking lot to the personal watercraft are permitted. As last forever. Sandpiper Trail, a boardwalk that leads with all coastal beaches on this byway, It’s where history started before words through a forest to the seashore. heed warning signs about rip currents could be written, and where the lore of A view of the beach and nearby and dangerous logs. the Quinault outlines the topography forested cliffs is tremendous, and the better than any map. Listen to the birds, sight of thousands of shorebirds will C opalis Beach the waves and the forest and you’ll learn thrill bird watchers. Up to 16 different This coastal community, where the the language of the Northwest. species are commonly found here. In Copalis River greets the sea, offers razor- late April or early May, a shorebird clam digging, fishing and a beach you festival brings experienced birders and can drive on (stay on the packed upper newcomers together for a delightful sand). Start with a visit to the Griffiths- education. Audubon Washington has a Friday State Park, a 364-acre marine colorful birding trail map for this entire park with loads of saltwater shoreline region, the Great Washington State on the ocean and freshwater shoreline Birding Trail—Olympic Loop. on the Copalis River. The Copalis Spit Natural Area, a designated wildlife O cean City State Park refuge, is part of the park. This 170-acre camping park One of the most fascinating is a coastal wetland perfect for attractions in the area is the Copalis beachcombing and investigating Ghost Forest. Located on the banks sand dunes and the pine thickets that of the Copalis River, the forest of red surround the freshwater and saltwater cedars and spruce trees was killed by a : PATRICK BENNETT

marshes. is part massive in 1700. The land photos

54 pacific coast hidncastd e o

beneath the trees subsided, and the forest coming to the beach on the Northern guides will help was flooded over. You can reach the Pacific. Pay a visit to the Museum of the you appreciate submerged forest by canoe or kayak North Beach for more information about the area’s rich from an informal launch site in the the area’s history, www.moclips.org. plant and animal middle of the town. Today, a visitor can enjoy the beach habitat through at Moclips and hike along the Moclips stories dating back Seabrook River, which forms the boundary untold centuries. A vacation beach town founded in between the town and the Quinault The Quinault 2004, Seabrook is worth a visit for its Indian Nation. Museum, in artfully designed village greens, walking Taholah, is dedicated paths of crushed oyster shells and houses Q uinault Indian Nation in Taholah to acquiring, organizing and that resemble New England cottages. The Hidden Coast Scenic Byway protecting the material cultural Seabrook has dozens of orange and concludes at the literal end of the road, heritage of the nation’s people, and to yellow bicycles for use in cruising the where SR-109 meets the . preserving traditional ceremonial and neighborhood, but there are also plenty In the village of Taholah, on Quinault subsistence activities. of off-road trails and old logging roads Indian Nation land, the Quinault Extensive photo collections can be for serious riders to enjoy. River enters the ocean. This area is a viewed, and a library is evolving. The When in season (October through popular tribal fishery during fall salmon museum is open Monday through May), razor-clam digging is one of the migration. Visitors will enjoy watching Friday. Visit www.quinaultindiannation. area’s most popular activities. Come both the and these master com for more information about the prepared with rain gear and rubber fishermen at work. Tribal fish-and-wildlife tribe, guide services and the museum. boots, then buy a license, rent a shovel and gather some free clamming advice at the local mercantile.

P acific Beach State Park Located at the edge of the town of Pacific Beach, this 10-acre park has a busy campground and unbroken views of the ocean. A fine, sandy beach is ideal Planning Tips for strolling and flying kites. Otters T GeTTING here: From Seattle, can be seen here, as well as shorebirds, take I-5 south to westbound US-101 eagles and hawks. Also, be sure to take near Olympia and head toward Hoquiam (112 in the “Kelpers Day Celebration” in miles / two hours). Follow signs to Ocean Shores and SR-109 and go north up the coast, ending Pacific Beach over Labor Day weekend. at Taholah. Celebrate all things kelp here; it’s the only place you officially can. Gas, Food and Lodging: Food, lodging and gas are available along the byway in each of the tiny Moclips communities. Some camping is available. Moclips was once a thriving Quinault Driving Distance 41 MILES Connected or Nearby village situated along the Moclips River. Drive time 1 hour Scenic Byways: European settlers homesteaded the area Pacific Coast, Cranberry Coast plan to spend 1–2 days in 1862, though it wasn’t until 1905 that Local Resource: the town became official and the western best seasons y ear round Washington Coast Chamber terminus of the Northern Pacific Railway of Commerce

: top adventures was completed here. Moclips became www.washingtoncoastchamber.org.

photos a PATRICK BENNETT popular destination for vacationers

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 55 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

s nake river columbia county courthouse

Lewis and Clark Trail Recreate the steps of Lewis and Clark, their renowned assistant and translator Sacajawea and the rest of the Corps of Discovery on their Washington adventures.

ollow the Snake and Columbia elements. Witness the kind of wildlife twice found shelter and support with Frivers, as Lewis and Clark did, and natural scenery they might have the Alpowai encampment of the Nez all the way to the Pacific Ocean near seen, and enjoy communities born in Perce Indian Tribe. present-day Ilwaco. their wake. The Alpowai Interpretive Center, in arbach Meriwether Lewis and William Clarkston, features exhibits about Lewis M eter

Clark were commissioned by President H ells Canyon and the and Clark’s time with the Nez Perce. ; P to lead an expedition Nez Perce connection bennett from 1804 to 1806. Paraphrasing A logical beginning for the Lewis and T he “Forgotten Trail” Jefferson, their mission was to “explore Clark Trail is near the Hells Canyon Lewis and Clark entered Walla Walla patrick the Missouri River and such principal Resort and Marina in Clarkston. There, territory in October 1805, traveling ; streams, finding those waters which a 300-foot-long sidewalk timeline follows in canoes on dangerous river waters marshall offer the most practicable water- the journey of the Lewis and Clark just north of what is now the town of john

communication across the continent Expedition, from the commission by Dayton. On their return trip east, they ; to the Pacific Ocean.” Their landmark Thomas Jefferson to the explorers’ arrival took an overland shortcut through what bennett journey through the American West at the Pacific Ocean. is now Walla Walla County. can be traced today via the Lewis and Chief Timothy Park, West on US-12, the town of Dayton patrick Clark Trail, a combination of historical in the near Clarkston, is a landmark on what is often referred , right pilgrimage and recreational fun. offers camping and boating and is to as the “Forgotten Trail,” a part of to

As you travel this route, imagine these located on the site of an important the Corps of Discovery adventure that left explorers paddling downriver in canoes, chapter in the Lewis and Clark story. historians often overlook. On April 29, :

hunting for their meals and braving the This is where the Corps of Discovery 1806, the expedition set up camp on photos

56 lwis e & clark trail

t ari-cities rea beacon rock

the banks of the Patit Creek, near the steelhead and sturgeon), and those old- off US-12. present site of the Columbia County growth pines that caught the expedition’s This day-use park at the confluence Courthouse. This event is represented attention still stand. Don’t miss the of the Snake and Columbia rivers in a full-scale, historically authentic restrooms—they were built in the 1930s commemorates the Shoshone Indian model on those banks and includes an with stones from the nearby river. woman who traveled with Lewis and interpretive kiosk. Clark. The corps camped on this spot Dayton’s Columbia County W ildlife refuges near the Tri-Cities in 1805. Today, an interpretive center Courthouse is the oldest operational Further along on US-12, McNary highlights Sacajawea’s role in the

rbach county seat in the state, and most National Wildlife Refuge, southeast of expedition. Grassy lawns, a play area a M downtown buildings are on the National Pasco in the Columbia River Basin, has and swimming beach, and a recreated ter e P ; Register of Historic Places. Excellent a reputation for supporting waterfowl Indian village make this a stop with restaurants and recreation ranging from populations in enormous numbers. something for everyone. ennett b skiing to winery tours make Dayton a The refuge includes over 15,000 place that shouldn’t be overlooked, even acres of diverse habitat with huge T he expedition joins the Columbia atrick p

; if it’s on the “Forgotten Trail.” concentrations of Canada geese, Here the byway heads south on mallards and widgeons. I-97, then west on SR-14 through the arshall m Lewis and Clark Trail State Park Less remote is an urban wildlife Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge, a ohn j

; Lewis and Clark Trail State Park, 5 area, , in the Richland- Mecca for birders. miles west of Dayton, is on the shores Kennewick-Pasco region. The corps At Maryhill, with its well-known art ennett b of the Touchet (TOO-shee) River. The once watched Native Americans there museum and Stonehenge replica, this

atrick expedition passed through this area catching and drying fish from the byway joins the Columbia River Gorge p

, on its return route, and Lewis and Columbia River. Scenic Byway for 100 miles, until it ight r

o Clark made note in their journals of reaches the town of Washougal. t

the ponderosa pines growing here. The Sacajawea State Park On this leg of the journey you’ll see l : 37-acre camping park has 1,300 feet of As the modern-day expedition windsurfers plying the waters between

photos eft river shoreline (where you can fish for continues toward Pasco, look for basalt cliffs and pass through small towns

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 57 lewis & clark Interpretive Center cape disappointment lighthouse at the pacific ocean

with plenty of personality. For more V ancouver and the Ridgefield Paddling past Grays Point, the team details about this grand stretch, see the National Wildlife Refuge retreated from miserable weather to a Columbia River Gorge Scenic Byway In Vancouver, history comes to life at cove (which Clark later referred to as section of this guide. the Fort Vancouver National Historic ‘this ’), where they were Site, the location of an early Hudson’s pinned for six stormy days by fierce Beacon Rock Bay Company fur-trading outpost. Daily winds and waves. It’s hard to miss Beacon Rock, jutting interpretive presentations by staff in A picnic area and restrooms are ennett

skyward just west of North Bonneville. period clothing bring the life and times available, as well as an information b

Indeed, the Corps of Discovery noticed of these rugged trappers and traders into booth in the summer. atrick p

it too. Mentioned in the Lewis and sharp focus. , Clark journals, this is where the corps The Ridgefield National Wildlife Station Camp’s historic vote ottom b

first noticed tidal influences and knew Refuge, northwest of Vancouver, has A few miles west of Dismal Nitch ; it was getting close to the ocean. Today, 5,218 acres of marshes, and is Station Camp, located at Middle arshall m visitors can climb the steep path (with woodlands for waterfowl and other Village, a seasonal Chinook Indian ohn j

a handrail) to the top of this 848-foot- wetland wildlife, which makes it easy Village. The Corps spent ten days here ; high basalt volcano core for a spectacular to understand why this was another and each member had an equal voice in ennett b view of the gorge. Corps of Discovery campsite. The refuge deciding where the expedition would features Cathlapotle Plankhouse, a full- make winter camp. This historic vote ulls atrick p

pelicans and g scale replica of a Chinook-style cedar included Clark’s devoted childhood ; house that would have been common companion (and slave) York, and the heckler s during the corps’ journey west. Native American woman, Sacajawea. / evy l

Some historians call Station Camp “the ,

D ismal Nitch ight Independence Hall of the American r

o t Clark’s Dismal Nitch, between Naselle West.” It would be more than fifty years eft l and Chinook on the lower Columbia before African Americans could vote, t River, was the scene in 1805 of a and more than 100 years before the : terrible time for the Corps of Discovery. right was extended to women. photos op

58 lwis e & clark TRAIL

Long Beach Peninsula sculptures, which terminate at “Clark’s Tree.” A popular year-round Nearby is Cape Disappointment State destination, the Long Beach Park, a big seaside camping park with Peninsula is sought out for miles of ocean beach and two historic its expansive beach, historic lighthouses. Cape Disappointment long beach sand castle competition lighthouses, renowned restaurants, Lighthouse is the oldest on the West cranberry bogs, and oyster farms. Coast, and North Head Lighthouse Reaching the Pacific Ocean A family favorite for generations, offers tours and overnight stays at ‘Ocian in view! O! the joy.’ The the lively town of Long Beach offers the nearby lighthouse keepers’ forceful presence of Pacific Ocean wind, colorful shops, kite flying and a great residences. For more information, see waves, and salt water 20 miles up the boardwalk above tall grasses. www.parks.wa.gov/vacationhouses. Columbia River elicited the celebrated The park’s Lewis and Clark Interpretive response. It would be over a week later T he trail’s western terminus Center is a fitting end to exploration before Lewis and Clark reached Pacific Three miles south of Long Beach, along this byway. Perched high on a cliff surf on the Long Beach Peninsula. Ilwaco wraps around a busy port with over a cove, its murals, displays and films Located where Lewis and Clark ended shops, galleries, canneries, restaurants, recount this legendary journey to the their westward journey, this 28-mile fishing charters, and a summer Saturday Pacific Ocean. Take it in, and be grateful spit juts northward from Ilwaco to market. The paved, 8.5-mile Discovery that your journey home doesn’t involve cape disappointment lighthouse at the pacific ocean Leadbetter Point—a portion of the Trail runs from Ilwaco to Long Beach. paddling and hiking the thousands of Willapa National Wildlife Refuge. The trail is remarkable for its interpretive miles back to Missouri! bennett patrick , bottom ; Planning Tips marshall T GeTTING here: The 572-mile scenic byway begins on the Snake River in Clarkston Driving Distance 572 MILES

john (named for William Clark) on the Washington-Idaho border and runs west to the Pacific ; Ocean along the Columbia River at Washington’s southern border. From Seattle, Clarkston is a Drive time 12 hours 315-mile, five-hour drive, so plan a full day to get to the eastern entrance of this byway. bennett plan to spend 3 days Gas, Food and Lodging: There are plenty of places to stay on this byway, from patrick

; campgrounds to comfortable hotels. Public restrooms are available at all of the best seasons* sr p ing, summer, fall parks you’ll find along the route. Two Savor Washington Itineraries: Long Beach Peninsula and Long Beach Culinary Loop are available at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx top adventures sheckler / Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road levy

, conditions in winter. Columbia River Gorge, Pacific Coast, Palouse, Yakama right to Local Resources:

left Lewis & Clark Trail www.lewisandclarktrail.com/section4/washington.htm Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce www.mtadamschamber.com

top Hells Canyon Visitor Bureau www.hellscanyonvisitor.com Skamania County Chamber of Commerce www.skamania.org : Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau www.funbeach.com Vancouver USA Tourism www.visitvancouverusa.com photos

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 59 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

Mt. Baker Peek-a-boo Mount Baker views tease you as you climb toward recreation, sightseeing and a break from the ordinary.

Mt. Baker

ith a winter average of 50 to habitat structures are installed along hiking, horseback riding, swimming, W60 feet of snow, Mt. Baker is a the riverbank. A 0.3-mile path with boating, and even hang gliding. Rent favorite of skiers and snowboarders. interesting interpretive signs winds a rowboat, canoe or pedal boat at the In the summertime, this glaciated along this stretch of river. You’ll find the park. A few 1940s-era rustic cabins volcano draws hikers and rafters. trailhead near milepost 14 by turning are available for overnight rental, and Travelers along the two-lane byway meet onto Truck Road. camping areas for tents, trailers, horses with crisp air, no-stoplight towns and and RVs are plentiful. dense Pacific coastal forests. During K endall Creek Salmon Hatchery winter, snow lovers flock to play in an The Kendall Creek Salmon Hatchery Black Mountain Forestry Center area that gets more snow than anywhere in Deming welcomes anyone who wants On the way to Silver Lake Park on the else in the lower 48 states. to see its ponds full of , west side of the road is a small split-log steelhead and four other trout species. house. This is the historic Gerdrum D eming Homestead Eagle Park This hatchery releases hundreds of house, built in the late 1800s from a An outstanding opportunity to thousands of salmon along the Nooksack single cedar tree. Today it’s home to view eagles is located on the North River every year. Ponds are full from the Black Mountain Forestry Center’s Fork of the . This is January through May, and spawning museum. During summer, explore the spot where bald eagles congregate time is in the fall. Visitors are welcome the home and grounds while learning during winter months for a feast of year round and may even get an informal about this region’s logging and forest- salmon. Unique salmon tour if their timing is right. products industry.

Silver Lake County Park Maple Falls and Glacier bennett Turn onto Silver Lake Road near A great place to stop for supplies and Maple Falls if you’re seeking a place information, Maple Falls is home to patrick to camp, picnic or swim. Silver Lake several grocery stores and cafés and is the ,

County Park is considered one of the last stop for fuel and Wi-Fi. In Glacier, bottom ; premier camping parks in the Pacific the last town on the byway, you will find nton u

Northwest. The big draw here is the lake a pub popular with locals, some of the ba itself, tucked into a mountain valley and best Italian food available anywhere in , BRETT

open to all manner of water recreation, an unassuming small deli, a ski shop, op trolling and fly fishing. a small grocery store, a bakery, and an : T

There are plenty of opportunities for artists’ co-op. photos M . bakert road trip 60 M a T. B ker

G lacier Public Service Center February, this race through the P icture Lake, Heather Meadows Just past Glacier, stop by the U.S. natural half-pipe has evolved into an and Artist Point Forest Service Glacier Public Service international event, attracting the At the byway’s end, Heather Meadows Center (closed mid-March to late April) sport’s top pros from around the world. (closed winters) is one photo op after to enjoy the cultural and natural-history Spectators seem to have as much fun another; capture from exhibits. The staff rangers can provide as the competitors. Save the date, and Picture Lake and Mount Baker from Artist excellent hiking-trail information, issue visit www.lbs.mtbaker.us for more Point. Many people mistakenly take photos backcountry wilderness camping permits information. of Shuksan thinking it is Baker. Just and give you maps, travel guides and tips The White Salmon Day Lodge prides remember that volcanoes are cone shaped that will enhance your visit. itself on serving locally grown food (try and head to Artist Point for the Baker shot! a Man Pie), and there’s a shop and gear A 1-mile interpretive loop trail H orseshoe Bend Trail rental here also. Cross-country skiers will introduces visitors to the geology, flora For real outdoor adventure, get on find trails, and in the summer there’s and fauna of the area and is the perfect

Mt. Baker the Horseshoe Bend Trail in Douglas Fir ample hiking in the area. leg stretch after this gorgeous drive. Campground (alongside the North Fork of the Nooksack River) for cross-country skiing in the winter and hiking in spring and summer. It’s the best kind of contrast; an easygoing trek right next to a raging white-water section of the Nooksack.

N ooksack Falls About 4 miles past Horseshoe Bend, take the short detour to view cascading Nooksack Falls, especially rewarding during the late spring or early summer runoff. The road to the 80-foot falls is a short drive off the byway to a parking area with an easy walk to the viewpoint. Planning Tips

T GeTTING here: From Seattle, go Silver Fir Campground north on I-5 for 90 miles to Bellingham. Driving Distance 58 MILES one way* Just 12 miles east of the community The byway runs along SR-542 for all of its 58 miles as it climbs from Bellingham to Artist Point on the Drive time 1.5 hours of Glacier, Silver Fir Campground, flanks of Mount Baker. open mid-May to early September, plan to spend 1 days is set alongside the North Fork of Gas, Food and Lodging: Lodges, bed and breakfasts, vacation the Nooksack River. This is a very best seasons y ear round** rentals and camping can be found along the byway. pleasant place to camp while exploring Small locally owned restaurants, a brewery serving ennett top adventures b the area’s scenic wonders. Wildlife handcrafted beer and an excellent vineyard and winery are all waiting to be discovered as well. * Distance from I-5 in Bellingham to Artist Point just beyond the atrick sightings include mountain goats, deer p

Mount Baker ski resort. , Fuel is available in Nugents Corner, Deming, and elk; watch out for black bears in **The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road Kendall and Maple Falls. Maple Falls is the last conditions and seasonal closures. ottom b

the woods. stop for gas while traveling east on the byway. ; ton n

u Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: a

b Mount Baker Ski Area Chuckanut Drive, Cascade Loop, Whidbey Scenic Isle Way Known far and wide as the birthplace

, Local ResourceS: Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism www.bellingham.org

o of snowboarding, the area hosts the

: Mount Baker Foothills Chamber of Commerce www.mtbakerchamber.org annual Legendary Banked Slalom. Glacier Chamber of Commerce www.glacierchamber.org

photos p Started T BRETT in 1985 and held each

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 61 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

North Cascades Scenic Highway As the North Cascades Scenic Byway loops between massive peaks and along lakes colored turquoise by glacial silt, you’ll see why these mountains are called “the American Alps.” r sainy pas

cenic defines it. Of all the passes that immortalized by the memoir (and later to house dam workers. An old-fashioned Straverse the Cascades, this is the most movie, which was shot here) “This Boy’s general store and 1920s homes will take mountainous, with high hairpin turns Life,” written by regional native son you back in time. Skagit Tour’s Diablo and eye-popping vistas. It’s so rugged, Tobias Wolff. Lake boat and tickets are it closes during winter months. And it’s available here. The tours feature gourmet so stunning that travelers line up before E agles, elk and organic berries lunches provided by the North Cascades sunrise on the day it reopens in the spring Continuing east on SR-20 from Environmental Learning Center using in order to be among the first across. Concrete, you’ll find yourself in prime locally grown ingredients. Nearby is the Here you’ll find 1920s-era company territory for watching bald eagles soaring North Cascades Visitor Center, which towns, organic farms selling their above. In the winter, this area has the largest offers travelers more information about produce and, near journey’s end, the concentration of bald eagles in the lower North Cascades National Park. recreational Mecca of Washington—the 48 states. Pressed for time but looking for a Methow Valley. Load up your mountain Eagle-watching float trips are popular hike? Try the Sterling Munro Trail, bike, grab your hiking boots, bring your activities here, especially during the a 300-foot boardwalk right outside camera and appetite, then just enjoy. Skagit Eagle Festival in January, see www. the visitor center that leads to a view concrete-wa.com for more information. of the , the park’s Sedro- Woolley to Concrete For more wildlife sightings and signature mountains. The byway begins in Sedro-Woolley. interpretive ancient forest walks, visit There are miles of outstanding trails You’ll see this town’s logging heritage in Rockport State Park, a day-use park here and further up the road, as SR-20 the chainsaw sculptures that decorate the along the lower Skagit River. During fall, weaves among Gorge, Diablo and Ross historic downtown. spawning salmon pack the river. lakes. Views of these and dams Three miles before you reach About 5 miles up the road, between are easily accessible from roadside pull- Concrete, Elk herd sightings are Rockport and Marblemount, look for outs or short hikes. The unusual pale commonplace in the woods and the small roadside Cascadian Farm turquoise-green color of the water is meadows of Hurn Field. From here, Stand. Be sure to pull over for a fresh the result of suspended particles washed continue east toward Concrete, a town organic blueberry milkshake or a jar down from the glaciers above. named for what it once produced. A of strawberry jam. This is a protected area for wildlife bennett row of hulking cement silos are still the including elk, , gray wolf, and community’s dominant feature. N orth Cascades National Park mountain goats. You’ll also see a patrick A closer look will reveal quaint Farther up the road is Newhalem, a variety of birds a prey and migratory :

churches, antique stores and a town community built by Seattle City Light sub-tropical species. photos

62 nohcs rt a cades scenic highway

O ver-the-top views fields, cheese that comes from happy the dangerous art of parachuting into Rainy Pass (4,875 feet) and, 4 miles local goats, even regionally roasted timbered mountains to fight forest fires. east, Washington Pass (5,477 feet) bring coffee and handcrafted ale and cideries! This teaching site was established in travelers face to face with terrific views A sunset drive to catch the nearly 360- 1939 and remains a valuable school of as well as a degree valley views from Sun Mountain for smoke jumpers all over the western panoramic view of the Methow Valley Lodge is a perfect way to end the day. United States. far below. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses The byway ends in Twisp, a tiny town the highway near Rainy Pass. T wisp and the Base that’s transforming itself into an arts An unnerving but fun footnote On a back road that connects community complete with a local acting to realize is that both of these passes Winthrop and Twisp, visitors are troupe and galleries. were once at the bottom of the welcome May through October to Look for its local brew pub, bakery Pacific Ocean! watch the action at the North Cascades using Bluebird Grain Farms whole-grain Smokejumper Base, the birthplace of flour and farmers market. D escending into the Methow Valley rainy pass A popular hiking, biking and cross- country skiing destination, the Methow Valley includes the communities of Mazama and Winthrop. The 125-mile Methow Community Trail system connects these towns to the entire valley. Near Winthrop, this trail system crosses the 275-foot Tawlks-Foster Suspension Bridge over the Methow River—look for harlequin ducks here in the winter. This pathway is a part of Audubon’s Great Washington State Birding Trail—Cascade Driving Distance 140 MILES Loop, http://wa.audubon.org. Like to ski but find the trails too Drive time 3 hours tame? A heli-ski operation near Mazama plan to spend 1–2 days takes adventurers into terrain typically reserved for Warren Miller films. best seasons* s umMEr, fall Planning Tips top adventures T he Old West town of Winthrop T GeTTING here: From Seattle, head *Portions of SR-20 close seasonally (typically from mid-November north on I-5 for 60 miles and take Exit You may feel as though you’ve entered through early May). Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and a movie set when you encounter the 230 onto SR-20 to get to Sedro-Woolley. Follow seasonal closures. SR-20 east to the byway’s end at Twisp. wooden sidewalks and false-fronted buildings of Winthrop. This town gave Gas, Food and Lodging: Indoor and outdoor lodging—from bed-and-breakfasts to luxury resorts itself a Western makeover in the early to campgrounds—is plentiful along this byway. Dining ranges from resort extravagance to small places featuring regionally grown fare. There are gas stations in most towns along the route, but Marblemount is your ’70s to attract travelers coming over the last gas stop before crossing Washington Pass and dropping into the Methow Valley and Winthrop. See the pass. It worked. But this town isn’t all Cascade Loop Scenic Byway section of this guide for more information about the North Cascades Highway. kitsch: some of the buildings really are historical, the rhythm-and-blues festival Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Cascade Loop, Stevens Pass Greenway, Okanogan Trails that takes place here in July is one of ennett b the best in the state, and this area has Local Resources: Cascade Loop Association www.cascadeloop.com a burgeoning and authentic local-food North Cascades National Park www.nps.gov/noca p

: Skagit County Tourism www.visitskagitcounty.com scene. Ask around and you’ll find fare Winthrop Chamber www.winthropwashington.com

photos madeATRICK with organic wheat from nearby

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 63 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

North Pend Oreille North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway (pronounced POND-er-AY) explores the remote northeast corner of Washington State, an area that’s definitely worth discovering.

no rth pend oreille

his rewarding drive through of the Pend Oreille River’s emerald restored many of the rail cars. Two other TColville National Forest is a northbound waters, is part of the special train trips are on Father’s Day favorite of outdoor adventurers, wildlife 280-mile International Selkirk Loop, weekend and Labor Day weekend. The enthusiasts and visitors curious about also featured in this guide. 20-mile round-trip is priced the area’s natural and human history. economically for families and offers Discover massive dams, the largest big- Start in Tiger fantastic views along the scenic Pend game population in the lower 48 states, The byway begins at the historic Tiger Oreille River Valley. a town that was a movie set and even Store and Post Office. Built in 1912, it is a bootlegger’s cave. For entertainment, now a visitor center and the last building Sweet Creek Falls people here drive snowmobiles across a remaining in this once-thriving burg. Sweet Creek Falls, 5.5 miles north of flowing river or ride a slow train through About 3 miles up the road, the town Ione, has a short trail passing through stunning box canyons. of Ione (eye-OWN), founded in 1910, a dense forest to three lovely waterfalls. This route, which parallels a stretch is cradled between the verdant slopes of Find unique rock cliffs and the remains the Selkirk Range and the Pend Oreille of a frontier wooden water system along River. The town, full of frontier charm, the pristine creek. Portions of the Sweet offers easy access to recreation on the Creek trail are ADA-accessible. river as well as an extensive walking tour of fascinating historical touchstones. Box Canyon Dam Opened in 1956, Box Canyon Q uirky fun Dam is the first publicly owned dam Ione hosts a couple of unusual in Washington and has provided just-for-fun family events. Every Pend Oreille County residents with July at the Down River Days Festival, hydroelectric power for over half a snowmobiles race across the Pend century. Box Canyon Dam’s visitor Oreille River with no other purpose center is open Monday through Friday, than simply making it to the from 7 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., year round. other side. The historic North Pend Oreille There is a train ride to view the Valley Lions Club train is a great way to fall colors every weekend in October view the dam from a trestle that passes provided by the North Pend Oreille overhead. See www.lionstrainrides.com : PATRICK BENNETT

Valley Lions Club, which has lovingly for schedule and fare information. photos sweet creek falls

64 nohenrt p d oreille

width of the state, this hydroelectric mile loop explaining the dam provides between 40-45% of the significance of the flume electricity for the city of Seattle. that once splashed logs Try to arrange a water tour of the into the pond. The Elk backwaters behind the dam to get views Creek Trail is a 2-mile of waterfalls and old abandoned mine ue heron loop that features a shafts that you can’t see from any other great bl wildflower meadow where elk sometimes vantage point. The violent collision graze and a cascading waterfall. Campsites, of tectonic plates that created the G etting on the Pend Oreille River boat launches and summer temperatures Cascades and Rocky mountain ranges In general, boat launches are easy to in the 80s make this lake a popular was so radical and twisting that the rock find on the Pend Oreille. , weekend getaway for locals. formations swirl and trees actually grow bass and northern pike are plentiful in upside down along some of the lake’s walls. the northern section of the river. Wildlife Boundarym Da Boundary Vista House, high above viewing up and down the shoreline is Remember the dam where Kevin Boundary Dam, offers visitors a vantage thrilling, with sightings of bald eagles, Costner meets Tom Petty in the action point directly over the rapids and the herons, swans, ospreys, and Canada movie “The Postman”? That scene hydroelectric plant. Head north on geese, along with deer, elk, moose and was filmed at Boundary Dam. Even SR-31 to Crescent Lake, then take East bears in forested surroundings. though they are separated by the entire Side Road to the end.

Metaline Falls

A few miles from the Canadian border is Metaline Falls, a regional center for culture and art, which was cited in John Villani’s book “The 100 Best Small Art Towns in America.” Metaline Falls features a couple of historic buildings including the Washington Hotel (where Wyatt Earp is Planning Tips rumored to have stayed), which boasts T GeTTING here: From Seattle, take an atmospheric Old West decor. I-90 or US-2 to Spokane, then head north Elsewhere in town, the Kirtland to Newport, then take SR-20 north to Tiger near the Washington-Idaho border (375 miles / seven Cutter Theatre was originally a school hours). The 27-mile byway officially begins at the but now houses a performing arts center junction of SR-20 and SR-31 at the town of Tiger, and library. The building is listed on the and ends at the Canadian border.

State as well as the National Register of Gas, Food and Lodging: There is Historic Places. a small selection of hotels, motels, RV parks and campgrounds on the byway, providing Sullivan Lake year-round accommodations for visitors. Small Driving Distance 27 MILES restaurants provide plenty of good food and local Sullivan Lake, southeast of Metaline flavor. Gas is available in Ione and Metaline. Falls, makes a great side trip and is home Drive time 40iu m n tES to loons, blue herons, red-necked grebes, Connected or Nearby plan to spend 1 day Scenic Byways: white-tailed deer, black bears, grizzly International Selkirk Loop, Sherman Pass bears, and gray . Patient anglers best seasons* sr p ing, summer, fall Local Resources: are known to catch trout and bass. top adventures Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance Recreational offerings are plentiful www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp : *The route is open year round.Check www.dot.wa.gov for road here. On the road to the lake, the Mill conditions and seasonal closures. International Selkirk Loop www.selkirkloop.org

photos Pond PATRICK BENNETT interpretive site has an easy half-

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 65 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

okanogan vista

Okanogan Trails Running alongside the , in the middle of north central Washington, the road is populated with vast views, small towns and vineyards.

he 83-mile Okanogan Trails farmer. This journey takes travelers to a be ridden on the streets of the town. TScenic Byway was once a well- quieter time. traveled trade route between Washington In the 1960s and ’70s the area was A birder’s dream and Canada, frequented by Native discovered by a hippie counterculture Part of the great Pacific Flyway, this Americans, cattlemen and gold seeking to return to such a time. As a route is a birder’s delight. Hundreds of prospectors. Today you’re more likely result, alternative energy, organic farming species of neotropical migrant birds can to find families in cars crammed full and self-sustenance is part of this area’s be seen in spring and fall, as well as large of camping gear, heading toward a few lifestyle, along with snowmobiling, numbers of hawk breeds, ospreys, eagles sunny days on a pine-forested lakeshore. hunting and small-town values. The and kestrels. In the winter, birders can Historical touchstones, such as gold Okanogan is big enough for all of it. find Lapland longspurs, gyrfalcons and mining camps, bald eagles. sawmills and cattle from long At the confluence of the Columbia C hiliwist Wildlife Area ago, dot the route. and Methow rivers, Lake Pateros is a North from Pateros and Brewster is The old times are perfect playground for fishing and water the 5,000-acre Chiliwist Wildlife Area. palpable along this play of all descriptions. With two boat Various habitat types and natural and byway; buy worms launches, eight docks and a waterfront man-made irrigation provide a home for and rent a skiff park, with public restroom and showers, mule deer, bighorn sheep, moose, black at a resort where this site is an open invitation to hang out bears, cougars, waterfowl, wild turkeys, fishermen have for a few hours or a few days. and grouse. This is a popular area for been gathering Hikers will find hundreds of miles of deer and game-bird hunting. for decades, trails, including several thousand acres of or pick up managed public lands within one hour C aribou Trail bennett sun-warmed of the town of Pateros. Those areas allow This byway follows a stretch of the peaches from hiking through pristine shrub steppe and Caribou Trail, the name given to a legendary patrick a fourth- riparian habitats. In winter, snowmobiles 800-mile route winding its way north from :

generation are welcome on many trails and can also Oregon to Canada. The trail was used for photos omak stampede event 66 onoganka trails

centuries by native Tribes and later by fur fishing and snow play take over in colder for public use. Historic Enloe Dam, brigades, gold miners and cattle drives. months. Anglers can test their mettle mounted on a natural waterfall of the The Okanogan County Historical against smallmouth bass, rainbow trout largely unexplored Similkameen River, Society has a sign in the town of and kokanee. is visible from the trail. Okanogan marking a section of the traditional trail that is now part of the O roville’s Similkameen Trail G rowing winery region scenic byway. Hike or bike the historic The Okanogan region is near Similkameen Trail from Oroville to the northern tip of the massive Sinlahekin Wildlife Area Enloe Dam and explore the rich history Columbia Valley wine-growing Located 7 miles west of tiny Riverside, of the Okanogan. A part of the Pacific appellation, and consequently a 19,500-acre Sinlahekin is the oldest Northwest National Scenic Trail, this growing number of wineries and wildlife area in Washington, with the stretch was recently opened and features tasting rooms have popped up. Check first parcels having been purchased in breathtaking views, especially from www.washingtonwine.org/explore or 1939 using federal funds to preserve the old railroad trestle improved www.cascadevalleywinecountry.com. mule-deer winter range. Birders come here to view birds of prey, shorebirds, songbirds and Planning Tips waterfowl. Mammal sightings include T GeTTING here: From Seattle, take black bears, bighorn sheep and moose in US-2 over Stevens Pass to Wenatchee, addition to elk and deer herds. then head north on US-97 to Pateros (200 miles / 3.5 hours). Pateros, at the confluence of the O mak Stampede and Methow and Columbia rivers, is the starting point of this byway, which runs on US-97 between Indian Encampment Pateros and Oroville on the Canadian border. One of the most colorful Tribal An follows the North Cascades cultural events of the year is the Highway on SR-20 through the Methow Valley.

Omak Stampede and Indian Gas, Food and Lodging: Motels, Encampment held each August in inns, RV parks, campgrounds and gas Omak. Visit www.omakstampede.org stations are all plentiful along the byway. You can also find some unique guest ranches that for more information. reflect the pioneer spirit by offering cabins and cottages alongside features like horse hotels. C onconully Lake There are several locally owned restaurants from Big, blue Conconully Lake is the which to choose. Pateros, Omak and Tonasket each feature bakeries and delis that source from centerpiece of this busy recreation area local farmers and have received wide acclaim. and the heart of a remote and charming A restaurant housed in a former soda-bottling little town of the same name. Pleasant plant in downtown Omak now serves as one of hiking along the Muckamuck Trail leads the area’s best sources of entrees made from locally grown ingredients. In Okanogan, there are to wildflower-laden meadows and views Driving Distance 83 MILES three artisan-cheese makers (two offer lessons) of the Okanogan Highlands. Fishing and and an organic grocery store. Drive time 2 hours birding are popular activities here. Connected or Nearby plan to spend 1–2 days Scenic Byways: Cascade Loop, O soyoos Lake Veteran’s Coulee Corridor, North Cascades best seasons* sr p ing, summer, fall Memorial Park Local ResourceS: Located at the byway’s end, this top adventures ennett Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway b park is a 47-acre camping park on a *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road www.okanogantrails.com 14-mile-long lake stretching into British conditions and seasonal closures. Okanogan County Tourism Council p : Columbia. Camping and water sports www.okanogancountry.com

photos areATRICK the ticket here in summer, while ice

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 67 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

P acificC oast Pacific Coast Trace a meandering path almost all the way around the Olympic Mountains, and let it brush against oyster-packed inlets, isolated lakes, rain forests and Pacific beaches.

ollow it to Northwest towns so H ood Canal and its people and a shovel. Or buy clams at one of the Ficonic, they show up in films and As you travel north along the east side many seafood markets along the canal. popular literature. The Pacific Coast of the Olympic Peninsula, US-101 hugs Scenic Byway begins in Olympia and the captivating shoreline of splendid V ictorian seaport of Port Townsend follows scenic US-101, first north along for a long stretch. Before If you have time, consider a three-hour Hood Canal, then westward across the you begin your journey along the canal, side trip to Port Townsend. This artist- top edge of the Olympic Peninsula, then a good first stop is the Squaxin Island friendly community has appeared in bennett south along the Pacific coast down to the Tribe Museum, Library and Research movies (“An Officer and a Gentleman,” Columbia River. Center. This striking building on “Enough”) but is perhaps best known patrick On this byway, hike in temperate Shelton’s Totten Inlet houses displays, for Centrum’s music festivals, artist , right rain forests, soak in hot springs or cold, photographs and artwork showing the workshops and residencies and its far ;

clear lakes and scratch your name in history and culture of the Squaxin. Wooden Boat Festival in September. t u the sand at the edge of the Pacific. Eat Hood Canal has a number of state The entire town is on the National yearo

s

in a lakeside lodge where Franklin D. parks (Potlatch and Dosewallips are Register of Historic Places. u Roosevelt dined, or shuck oysters on a a couple with campsites) with easily marc beach. The byway contains or connects accessible beaches. When in season Sunny Sequim , left directly to five other scenic byways and (check http://wdfw.wa.gov), clamming Located in the of two is a confluence of the best that western is omnipresent here, so come prepared the Olympic Mountains, Sequim :

Washington has to offer. with a shellfish license, rubber boots (pronounced SQUIM), known as the photos

68 S BEcond Each NEAR LA PUSH pafi astci c co

“Banana Belt,” the driest area in western seals, sea lions and the occasional whale. destination, with free ranger-led tours every Washington, is home to the state’s weekend at 2 p.m. (snowshoes provided). biggest lavender festival. Detour through P ort Angeles the fertile Dungeness Valley and discover This small town’s charm and boutique Lake Crescent, a President organic produce stands, pick-your-own shops along with a variety of dining and and waterfalls flower fields and a perfect panorama lodging options will entice you to stay Continuing west on US-101, the of the Olympics spreading along the several days. There are also four wineries byway is sandwiched between the steep southern horizon. just a few minutes from town and a very foothills of the Olympics and the crystal- Sequim is a good place to access the active event calendar. Port Angeles is clear waters of Lake Crescent. Historic Olympic Discovery Trail, a hiking, also an international port. The Coho, a Lake Crescent Lodge (built in 1916) biking and equestrian trail which car ferry that to Victoria, British has accommodations and fine dining; connects with Port Angeles, and the Columbia, sails from here several times a Franklin D. Roosevelt stayed here in the Jamestown Tribal campus in Blyn. day. See the Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic late 1930s and decided to sign Olympic ennett b Byway for more information. National Park into existence. D ungeness Spit Near the lodge, the Storm King atrick p

, Curving more than 5 miles out into H urricane Ridge in Ranger Station is the starting point for ight r the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Dungeness Olympic National Park a handful of easy rambles. Splendid ar f

;

t Spit is the longest natural sand spit in Olympic National Park’s famed Marymere Falls is a great way to spend u the United States. Beach hikers can go Hurricane Ridge is 18 miles south and an hour or two. Waterfall buffs may also earo y

s

u inside the New Dungeness Lighthouse at 5,200 feet up from Port Angeles. Day want to turn onto Sol Duc Hot Springs

arc the end of the spit and see views of the hikers can find marmots, deer and Road, about 3 miles beyond Lake m

,

eft strait, the Olympics and their long walk meadows full of lupine and glacier lilies, Crescent. There are roadside cascades l back. The spit is part of the Dungeness plus jaw-dropping views all the way to (look for leaping salmon in October), t : National Wildlife Refuge, an area Canada. In winter, the area becomes and hikers will enjoy the 1-mile

photos wo populated by ducks and seabirds, harbor a popular skiing and snowshoeing hike to Sol Duc Falls, especially if

SECOND BEACH NEAR LA PUSH N orth Head Lighthouse, Ilwaco sequim lavendar farm l ake crescent quinau lt rainforest waterfall

they follow it with a soak in nearby still is—a popular place for hikers and the 0.8-mile Hall of Mosses trail if time 106-degree mineral pools. sport anglers fishing for salmon and is short. There’s also a visitor center and rainbow trout in the Hoh, Sol Duc, camping, and an outfitter along the way E ntering “Twilight” Country Bogachiel and Calawah rivers. Located that offers guide services and raingear. Southwest on US-101 is the town on the western edge of Olympic of Forks, a pilgrimage site for fans National Forest, Forks provides easy K alaloch and Ruby Beach of Stephenie Meyer’s “Twilight” access to trails and wildlife viewing. US-101 veers toward the coast now, novels. But long before vampires and then southward along a chain of beaches werewolves hit town, Forks was—as it La Push within Olympic National Park, some of A few miles west of Forks, SR-110 the last protected wilderness beaches in leads to La Push, home of the Quileute the . Nation. The shoreline at La Push, and Ruby Beach has a meandering creek, nearby First, Second and Rialto beaches garnet-colored sand and shallow pools are wonderful. Heaps of silvered to play in during low tide. Kalaloch driftwood, sea stacks and beautiful (pronounced -lock) is a wide, flat hikes are all part of the magic. beach with campsites and the popular Quileute Days, a popular Tribal Kalaloch Lodge perched on the bank celebration of , takes above. Bluff-side cabins and a restaurant place in July. The Quileute Nation with spectacular views of the Pacific rism

maintains a comfortable resort on draw visitors from all over the world u to

the water’s edge and a restaurant to this superlative beach. la u urney at the marina. N tiveericana A canoem jo penins Q uinault Rain Forest H oh Rain Forest At the southwestern edge of Olympic olympic Northwest Tribal Tourism Less than an hour south of Forks National Park, you’ll encounter Lake Northwest Tribal Tourism (NWTT) is a 10-tribe tesy on US-101, take the cutoff to the Quinault and the Quinault Rain Forest. uR co consortium, located on the Kitsap and Olympic astonishing Hoh Rain Forest, one of the The pristine lake is surrounded by massive , Peninsulas. Cultural traditions and life-ways right

last old-growth temperate rain forests old-growth cedar and spruce trees and is ; relied upon navigating and maintaining trade routes stretching over diverse terrain. NWTT in the . This place anchored by another historic lodge where bennett works to sustain and enhance the geographical measures annual rainfall in feet (14 a Franklin Roosevelt once stayed. character of the environment and culture. In year is the average), and the wildlife Keep on the lookout for large herds patrick 2008, NWTT became manager of the Pacific viewing and birding opportunities are of (no relation). The , left Coast Scenic Byway (US 101), the only Native abundant. Several hikes of varying protection of their habitat was a

American organization to manage a non-native two difficulty and length will lead you primary reason for the creation of : United States Scenic Byway.

through the moss-draped canopy; try Olympic National Park. photos

70 PAFIASTCI C CO

T hree byways converge After Aberdeen, the Pacific Coast this byway will take you to the Long When this byway approaches Scenic Byway takes travelers inland on Beach Peninsula and every kind of beach Hoquiam, choices abound as it intersects US-101 through forested hills and then lodging and recreation imaginable. After with two other scenic byways. The joins the Cranberry Coast byway as it that, the village of Chinook is a gateway Hidden Coast Scenic Byway follows travels through Raymond, South Bend to time travel at Fort Columbia State SR-109 north, covering the pristine and Willapa Bay. Refer to the Cranberry Park, where barracks, buildings and stretch of Pacific coastline that leads Coast Scenic Byway section in this guide batteries were active from 1896 to 1947. from Hoquiam to Taholah, home of the for details about these towns. The byway ends at the Washington- . Oregon state boundary, where the lofty O n to the Columbia quinault rainforest waterfall The Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway Astoria-Megler Bridge passes over the hugs the coastal route south from At the southernmost reach of Columbia River, leaving Washington’s Aberdeen to Raymond along SR-105. Washington’s coast, a short detour off beauty in the rearview mirror.

Planning Tips

Driving Distance 350 MILES

Drive time 10 hours

plan to spend 2r or mo e days

best seasons y ear round

top adventures

T GeTTING here: From Seattle, go south on I-5 for 60 miles to Olympia and begin the 350-mile route just south of Olympia on US-101, heading north toward Shelton. Follow the route all the way around the Olympic Peninsula and down to the Astoria-Megler Bridge south of Chinook. ism r

u Gas, Food and Lodging: Many restaurants, plentiful fuel o t

a and accommodations ranging from posh resorts to yurts are available l u along this byway. Five Savor Washington Itineraries:

enins Sequim & Port Angeles, Chimacum Valley & Port Townsend, Olympia, p Long Beach Culinary Loop, Long Beach Peninsula, are available at http://www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx. lympic o

esy

t Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: R u

o Strait of Juan de Fuca, Cape Flattery Tribal, Hidden Coast, c , Cranberry Coast, Lewis and Clark Trail ight r

; Local ResourceS: Northwest Tribal Tourism www.explorepacificnwtribes.com ennett b Olympia-Lacey-Tumwater www.visitolympia.com North Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau www.olympicpeninsula.org atrick p

, Port Angeles Chamber of Commerce www.portangeles.org eft

l Grays Harbor Tourism www.visitgraysharbor.com

Willapa Harbor Chamber of Commerce www.willapaharbor.org t : Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau www.funbeach.com photos wo

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 71 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

PAU LO SE

Palouse Scenic Byway This byway is a 208-mile patchwork of colorful rolling hills, farmland and history; some of the first wagon-train settlements in the state were in this southeastern region of Washington.

ilvered barns stand long abandoned Depression era by a local businessman as set type, see the unique collection of Sas rough-legged hawks lazily circle housing for farmhands. equipment used in early newspaper above. Thousands of acres of wheat publishing and peruse archival copies blanket the rolling hills, and their C olfax and the Codger Pole of eastern Washington newspapers. The color—from spring green to autumn At the intersection of SR-26 and US- museum is open Saturdays from 10 a.m. gold—tells of the passing of the seasons. 195, you’ll drive south onto US-195 and to 2 p.m. or by appointment by calling A viable agricultural region, the area pass through Colfax. A good example 509-878-1742. holds the largest concentration of wheat of the region’s nineteenth-century per acre in the world. Barley, onions architecture, downtown Colfax has some K amiak Butte County Park and 30 percent of the world’s lentils are folksy restaurants, coffee shops and other From Palouse, head south for 3 miles grown here. The land hosts waterfalls reasons to pull over for a spell. on SR-27 to find County and sudden valleys. Magnificent buttes Be sure to pause at the Codger Pole. Park. A climb to the butte’s summit via give way to panoramic views, and the The tallest chain-saw carving in the Pine Ridge Trail offers satisfying views horizon seems to go on forever. world, it was built to commemorate of undulating hills and the Wallowa a grudge-match football game played Mountains to the south. A birding P ampa Pond by two local teams 50 years after their extravaganza, the trail offers sightings The first leg of the byway, east on original game. The pole sports the of a variety of birds including warblers, SR-26, begins at the western edge likeness of each of the 51 “codgers” who nuthatches, pygmies and great horned of La Crosse (and after the cutoff to played in the rematch! owls. White-tailed deer can also be Hooper) and includes some appealing found here. quick stops. Stretch your legs or have a T he city of Palouse picnic at the lovely Pampa Pond, slightly Palouse is one of the oldest Mc Croskey House and south of SR-26. The “pond” (actually a communities in the county and has Historic Barron Flour Mill three-acre lake) is a great fishing spot for many historic sites. Among the must- North on SR-27, the town of Garfield rainbow trout. sees: the Bank Left Gallery, the beautiful features the McCroskey House, listed on A little ahead and just north of Palouse Hayton Green City Park and the the National Register of Historic Places

SR-26 is a small cluster of historical Roy Chatters Newspaper and Printing and built in 1898 by a state senator. : PATRICK BENNETT

basalt houses and cabins built in the Museum. Visitors to the museum can Spacious and elegant, the mansion has photo

72 pae lous scenic byway

carved oak mantelpieces and a hand- Dam is just 2 miles up the road Grizzly Bear Research Center. Afterwards, carved marble fireplace. and offers fish viewing rooms as well as enjoy a meal in one of Pullman’s many Farther north on SR-27, in Oakesdale, a visitor center. Steelhead, catfish, bass fine pubs and restaurants. the wonderfully weathered Barron Flour and sturgeon fishing are popular in Lake Mill, constructed in 1890, is a grand Bryan—the backwaters below the dam. V isit the Dahmen Barn wooden structure worn over the years by near Uniontown decades of sun and rain. The mill has its P ullman: Home of the Cougars At the southernmost extension of the own peculiar dignity and is a year-round Pullman, home to Washington State byway, on SR-195 in Uniontown, you’ll photo op. University, features unique restaurants, find the Artisans at the Dahmen Barn. shops, galleries and boutiques. Visit This restored dairy barn, surrounded Steptoe Battlefield and the WSU campus to see the beautiful by a fence made from more than 1,000 Railroad Bridge architectural blending of both classic and wagon wheels, houses several artists’ Driving slightly northeast on SR- contemporary styles. studios, where travelers are invited 271, head to Rosalia and stop at nearby Swing by the WSU Creamery to take to watch regional artists at work. Steptoe Battlefield and Monument, a home a round of its famous Head down the road to see the historic commemoration of an 1858 Indian Gold cheddar, and allow time to tour the St. Boniface Catholic Church. battle with the U.S. Army.

From here, you can see the Rosalia Railroad Bridge. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the concrete arch bridge was built by the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad in 1915. Follow SR-271 from Rosalia for the best photo op. The town’s visitor center is a Planning Tips historic Texaco gas station that will make you nostalgic for an older, T GeTTING here: From Seattle, small-town America. take I-90 east to Vantage, then SR-26 east to the starting point just past Washtucna. The 208-mile byway is neither a State Park loop nor a straight line, but includes sections Going south on SR-195, look for this of various highways in southeast Washington that crisscross and connect several small farm park at the town of Steptoe. Shaped like communities. The byway begins when SR-26 a thimble, the 150-acre, 3,612-foot- reaches the near Hooper and tall, quartzite butte looms over the continues east, then north, south and west. surrounding flatlands. Drive the circular Driving Distance 208 MILES Gas, Food and Lodging: route to the summit and be amazed at the Drive time 4–5 hours Hotels, motels, cabins, RV parks, fertile valleys below. The year-round park campgrounds, and more can be found both in is open for day use only. plan to spend 1 day the 11 communities on this byway and in some recreation areas. Gas stations and restrooms best seasons* y ear round are plentiful. Boyer Park and Lower Granite Dam top adventures Nearby Scenic Byway: Lewis and Clark Trail Continuing south on SR-195, nearly *Check www.dot.wa.gov for road conditions and seasonal closures. 20 miles south of Colfax, head west Local ResourceS: on SR-194 to take in Boyer Park and Palouse Scenic Byway www.palousescenicbyway.com the Lower Granite Dam. The 80-acre Pullman Chamber of Commerce : Boyer Park has a marina and campsites, www.pullmanchamber.com

photo PATRICKswimming, BENNETT fishing and boating. Lower

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 73 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

s lan juan is ands

San Juan Islands The San Juan Islands Scenic Byway is Washington’s newest byway and the first route in the lower 48 states to include a marine highway—a historic canoe route originally traveled by the Coast Salish people.

oday, ply cruise, or rent a moped for a self-guided shops, gardens and a marina make Roche Tthese waters, laden with locals and island tour. A farmers’ market is located Harbor a great stop for a meal and visitors traveling by car, by bike or on in a historic brickworks building for a historic walking tour. Guided kayak and foot. Occasionally someone even walks taste of island-grown fare. whale watching tours are available and onto a ferry hand-carrying a kayak Take a self-guided walking tour of the provide a great way to get a better sense to launch at his or her destination. downtown historic district and browse of the place. The recreational appeal of these the Whale Museum or the San Juan islands is undeniable. Winding roads Historical Museum. Lime Kiln Point State Park with light traffic beckon cyclists. Lime Kiln Point State Park, a.k.a. Rocky coves captivate paddlers. Artistic H ead over to Roche Harbor Whale Watch Park, is a kayaker’s communities, eclectic shops and water Begin your tour by driving west on paradise and the only park in the views everywhere charm everyone who Roche Harbor Road. Three miles out world dedicated to shore-based orca visits the San Juans. of town, swing into a wine-tasting whale watching. This day-use park room housed in a historic schoolhouse. has a picturesque working lighthouse, F riday Harbor on Nearing Roche Harbor, tour the San trails, and an interpretive center. Late The historic seaport Friday Harbor Juan Islands Museum of Art’s Sculpture spring through fall are the best whale- greets the ferry with water-view Park, which boasts over 100 sculptures spotting months. restaurants, boutiques, bookstores, placed in a 19-acre natural setting. Follow West Side Road to Wold Road, photography galleries, and museums. Relax at the Continue to Roche Harbor Resort, where you’ll find a 25-acre lavender farm waterfront park between the “Portals of where you’ll find the Hotel de Haro, that produces over 250 lines of lavender- demar

Welcome” (Coast Salish house posts) which was built in 1886 and is on the based products. The San Juan Island robert

and watch ferries, seaplanes and boats National Register of Historic Places. Lavender Festival is held here the third : enter the harbor, take a whale-watching Several types of lodging, restaurants, weekend in July each year. photo

74 SANU J AN ISLANDS

O rcas Island you’ll find shops, galleries, restaurants park. Enjoy campsites, five freshwater The byway continues with a 40-minute and lodging. The Historical lakes and over 38 miles of hiking trails. ferry ride from Friday Harbor to Orcas Museum, located in the center of the The park’s is the Island, the largest of the San Juans. The village, has exhibits housed in six original highest point in the San Juans at 2,409 ferry lands at Orcas Village, with its 1800s homestead cabins. feet and boasts panoramic views of distinctive general store built on pilings islands and the Cascade Mountains—a above the shore and the 1904 Orcas Hotel. H istoric Rosario Resort must-do side trip. Head out on Orcas Road and turn Heading south on Olga Road brings west onto Deer Harbor Road to the quiet travelers to the historic Moran Mansion Last Stops: Olga and Doe Bay hamlet of Deer Harbor. Here you can rent at Rosario Resort. Robert Moran, a Come back down the mountain and a boat or a bike, take a kayak or whale shipbuilder and former mayor of Seattle, continue south to the hamlet of Olga watching tour, or just buy a coffee from a built the mansion in 1909, and today for shopping and a meal at the Orcas store on a dock and enjoy the view. it’s the centerpiece of this popular Island Artworks cooperative, housed in resort and marina. The mansion houses a 1936 strawberry-packing plant. The P ottery cooperatives photographs from the 1900s, arts- last stop along the byway is Doe Bay, Orcas—or “the rock,” as locals call and-crafts furniture and a music room where you’ll find a rustic resort. This it—is known for its pottery. Ask the locals featuring Tiffany chandeliers, a Steinway Northwest icon offers yurts near the san juan islands where you can find potters spin clay into grand and a renowned Aeolian beach, soaking tubs and a truly laid- art at any one of the local historic studios. pipe organ. back island experience. Retrace your route back to Orcas Bustling Eastsound Village, catch an Anacortes-bound ferry Continue to Eastsound, the Continue south to Moran State and savor the return cruise through the commercial hub of Orcas Island. Here Park, Washington’s fourth-largest state scenic San Juan Islands.

Planning Tips

TGeTTING here: Take a Washington State ferry from Anacortes to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island to begin your journey. Be sure to arrive at the ferry terminal early, especially during peak summer and weekend travel. Once you’ve explored San Juan Island, take an inter-island ferry to Orcas Island. Keep an eye out for resident orca pods. Foot passenger service is also available seasonally from Bellingham, Seattle and Port Townsend.

Gas, Food and Lodging: There are plenty of accommodations on both islands, although reservations are recommended, especially in summer months. Local groceries, restaurants and resorts provide food for all tastes. Gas can be found in Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor on San Juan Island, and in Eastsound on Orcas Island. Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Whidbey Island Scenic Isle Way, Cascade Loop, Chuckanut Drive

Driving Distance 120 MILES* Local Resource: San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau www.visitsanjuans.com/visitors/scenic-byway Drive time 2.5 hours hotography p plan to spend 2r or mo e days

emar *This byway has three segments: a 30-mile ferry ride, a 46-mile loop d best seasons* y ear round** on San Juan Island and a 44-mile (one-way) road tour on Orcas Island. **Shoulder seasons are best for avoiding crowds. Check for updated r top adventures : Washington State Ferries information at www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries. photo obert

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 75 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

Sherman Pass

Sherman Pass Don’t be fooled by this northeast Washington byway’s short length— it’s long on natural beauty and fascinating history. SEMNAH R A P SS

tep off the road and the din of Civil War General William T. Sherman, home up to three of them. Smodern life becomes muted by who passed through in 1883. Paved in Staff will help identify findings and cheerful waterfalls and vast forests of the 1950s, this pass serves as the area’s explain how to care for them. Check pine, larch and fir. Dig for , live on primary year-round east-west . www.stonerosefossil.org for updated a houseboat for a weekend or enjoy the schedule information. simple pleasure of walking alone in the Republic forests of the Kettle Mountain Range. Downtown Republic is an authentic T he Republic to Curlew trail The Sherman Pass Scenic Byway remnant of the old frontier, filled with The bed of an abandoned railway line begins in the town of Republic on SR- nineteenth- and early twentieth-century has been transformed into a wonderful 20 and runs east across Sherman Pass— buildings. Enjoy a fine walking tour 30-mile hiking, biking and horse trail Washington’s highest maintained pass at past murals and photographs depicting that runs from Republic to Curlew, 5,575-feet—through Colville National the area’s rich gold-mining history. It’s which is home to the Ansorge Hotel Forest to the town of Kettle Falls on the not all history, though—there’s still an Museum and the Antique Car Museum. Columbia River. operational gold mine in Republic. A historic route used by Native In Republic you can have the “city C urlew Lake State Park Americans on their way to fish and by slicker” experience at a local dude ranch, Eight miles north of Republic on wagon trains, the byway is named for or, for a more passive endeavor, watch SR-21, this 123-acre state park is a haven the resident deer herd graze on the for year-round relaxation and recreation town’s lawns and gardens nearly every on water and in snow. A memorable evening at sunset. camping experience can include t u opportunities for trout and bass fishing, yearo

Stonerose Interpretive Center water- and jet-skiing and birding. s u

A great family stop on this byway is Wildlife is abundant. Birders should arc the Stonerose Interpretive Center in watch for osprey, eagles, hawks, M

downtown Republic, where visitors can hummingbirds, and wild turkeys. Foxes, bottom ; participate in a public dig of a marmots, deer and elk are also plentiful. bed that dates to the Eocene epoch marshall

(making it nearly 50 million years old). C rossing Sherman Pass john An inexpensive admission fee (free for Heading east from Republic on , top kids under the age of six) provides an SR-20, you will cross Sherman Pass : ublic

ter in rep photos fossil h un opportunity to dig up fossils and take (5,575 feet). This gorgeous crossing

76 shemn r a pass

wanders past waterfalls and through Area and its dozens of campgrounds W orthwhile side trips Douglas fir forests. In fall, the deciduous are popular for boating, swimming and For further exploration, there are some conifer larch trees, which look like fishing, www.nps.gov/pwr/laro. rewarding side trips from Kettle Falls. evergreens in the summer, turn a radiant Head south along US-395 to Colville, a gold, and their needles drop to the ground, K ettle Falls, a town that moved charming town surrounded by enough creating a beautiful golden highway. The byway ends at Kettle Falls, a streams, rivers, lakes and reservoirs to recreational haven nestled between the make it a popular fishing spot. T he Sherman Pass overlook Kettle Mountains and Lake Roosevelt’s Thirteen miles east of Colville on Along SR-20 there is a pullout at the blue waters—which submerged the SR-20 is the turn-off to Little Pend White Mountain/Sherman Overlook original town when the Grand Coulee Oreille National Wildlife Refuge. Follow with an easy quarter-mile paved trail Dam was finished. Today, the edge of the signs for another 6 miles. At nearly and interpretive signs detailing the the former town site is Old Kettle Falls 42,000 acres, this stunning area is the only devastating fires of 1929 and 1988. Campground, which has riverfront sites, mountain forest refuge of mixed conifers in Ghostly gray snags still stand, remnants interpretive signage with a marina and the continental United States. There’s free of the massive fires. houseboat rental business next door. camping and ample fishing, and wildlife There are interpretive trails all along Houseboats, complete with slides and galore. More than 206 bird species and the route, so plan some time to loiter. hot tubs on board, are a popular way to 58 mammal species can be found in this These areas include an old log-flume site enjoy the waters of Lake Roosevelt. refuge, www.fws.gov/littlependoreille. with an easy paved quarter-mile trail, and Camp Growden, where hundreds of young men were sent to work during the Great Depression in FDR’s Civilian Conservation Corps.

C olville National Forest Colville National Forest offers abundant recreational opportunities for hikers on almost 500 miles of trails. Occupying more than a million acres and filled with elk, moose, rattlesnakes, bears, cougars, and bobcats, this is truly one of America’s great, untamed wilderness areas. There are trails for horses, mountain Planning Tips Driving Distance 35 MILES

bikes, motorcycles and snowmobiles, T GeTTING here: From Seattle, it’s Drive time 45iu m n tES boat launches on the lakes, scenic drives a 300-mile trip (about five hours), driving over Stevens Pass and heading north on US-97 to take and rivers to explore. There are plan to spend 1–2 days t

u then east on SR-20, to the byway’s beginning also 28 well-maintained campgrounds in Republic. best seasons* y ear round earo y

s that offer a multitude of distinct u Gas, Food and Lodging: Gas, food top adventures rc a ecosystems to experience firsthand.

M and lodging are available at both ends of

*The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road the byway in Republic and Kettle Falls or nearby conditions and seasonal closures. ottom Colville. Camping is plentiful along this byway. b Lake Roosevelt National

; Recreation Area Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: arshall The creation of the Grand Coulee Dam International Selkirk Loop, North Pend Oreille, Okanogan Trails m

also created 150-mile-long Lake Roosevelt, ohn j , with 600 miles of shoreline and 30 species Local Resources: t

: Republic Tourism www.republicwa.org, Kettle Falls www.kettlefalls.com of fish (including trout and salmon). Colville Chamber of Commerce www.colville.com

photos op The Lake Roosevelt National Recreation

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 77 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

Spirit Lake Memorial Highway Spirit Lake This is the only scenic byway in the United States that penetrates a fresh volcanic blast zone.

lso known as the Spirit Lake lesson about our planet’s ferocious power . A Memorial Highway, SR-504 is a and miraculous ability to regenerate. The park occupies a mile of Silver 52-mile journey into the scene of epic Lake’s shoreline and offers 6 miles of destruction that Mount St. Helens caused Mount St. Helens Visitor Center woodland trails for hiking and biking. when it erupted on May 18, 1980. at Silver Lake A public-access boat ramp is located Along the way, experience the Five miles east of is the 5 miles east on SR-504, and fishing enormous geologic, economic and Mount St. Helens Visitor Center at Silver (bass, bluegill, perch, trout, catfish), personal impact the eruption had on this Lake. The center describes each chapter of wildlife viewing and bird watching are area, and witness the region’s recovery. the mountain’s history from pre-eruption pleasant recreations here. This byway Rebuilt and reopened in 1992, the years to today. It also features exhibits is part of Audubon Washington’s Great byway continues to carry its original name about the region’s history and culture as Washington State Birding Trail— but no longer leads to Spirit Lake. Rather, well as offering geological background on Southwest Loop. it ends at Johnston Ridge and affords a the volcano and the surrounding area’s striking view of the post-eruption lake slow but steady recovery. T outle River and the volcano’s yawning crater. Look down the valley where the bleached Five miles past the visitor center is Along the byway are four distinct bones of a blown-down forest are in view. the Toutle River, which the byway will interpretive and tour centers: Silver Lake, See the evidence of an unimaginable force parallel for the remainder of this route. Hoffstadt Bluffs, the Weyerhaeuser Forest that flattened 150 miles of old-growth The river became a nightmarish mudflow Learning Center and Johnston Ridge. timber as if the trees were toothpicks. during the eruption as massive amounts Each one tells a different part of the of sediment poured into the water. story from the natural history prior to Relax at Silver Lake You can find some of that mud today on the May 1980 eruption, the aftermath, A nature trail at the Mount St. Helens the walls of the North Fork of the Toutle reforestation efforts and natural recovery Visitor Center leads to beautiful Silver River, and you can get a closer look from of plants and animals. Above all, the Lake and its wetlands. Silver Lake covers a viewpoint on Stewart Dam Road (turn devastated landscape is an extraordinary 3,000 acres, with camping available at right just before the Toutle River Bridge). : PATRICK BENNETT photos m ount78 s t . helens spitl ri ake

before, during and after the Lake, its surface still covered by a mat eruption, with an emphasis on of logs, leave a lasting impression. The reforestation and conservation entire lake was tossed 800 feet up the projects. One of the interesting opposing mountainside during the blast goals of the learning center and now rests where it returned, half as is to not interfere with the deep and with twice the surface. elk herd destruction caused by the Experience the power of this place by eruption and let nature take its taking a short hike. The Coldwater Lake K id Valley course as much as possible. Trail is an easily navigated boardwalk A small, spirited community that leading to a lake that was formed after survived the blast, Kid Valley was Johnston Ridge Observatory the eruption. The Hummocks Trail— once a town of logging camps and At the end of the Spirit Lake Scenic hummocks are mounds of volcanic mining claims. When Mount St. Byway is Johnston Ridge Observatory, debris—takes an hour to walk and is Helens blew up, many families in Kid where visitors are only 5 miles from moderately strenuous, winding through Valley’s outlying areas lost their homes. the crater and lava dome of Mount St. lupine fields and ponds on what Mudflows buried logging camps and the Helens. Stands of dead trees, stripped was once the site of the largest landslide Green River Fish Hatchery. of their bark, and the remains of Spirit in recorded human history. Today, Kid Valley has reestablished its character and charm. A local family turned one of the original homesteads into the Kid Valley Campground, a convenient base for sightseeing, hiking and biking the Mount St. Helens area.

H offstadt Bluffs Visitor Center About 27 miles along the byway, Mount St. Helens becomes spectacularly visible. The Hoffstadt Bluffs Visitor Center, the second of four tour centers, offers an opportunity to take a good look at the volcano and surrounding valley. Large elk herds can often be seen Planning Tips Driving Distance 52 MILES in the mudflats below the parking lot. Drive time 2 hours Helicopter tours operate from here from T GeTTING here: From Seattle, take I-5 south to Exit 49 at Castle Rock plan to spend 1 day spring through fall, and there’s a full- (120 miles / two hours). The byway starts in best seasons* sr p ing, summer, fall service restaurant with a one-of-a-kind Castle Rock and goes east along SR-504, mostly volcano view. following the North Fork of the Toutle River to the top adventures A memorial trail through a nearby Johnston Ridge Observatory. *Most of the route is open grove pays tribute to 57 people who lost Gas, Food and Lodging: Hotels and motels are available in Castle year round. Check www.dot. wa.gov for road conditions Rock and Silver Lake, and several campgrounds and RV park facilities are their lives in the eruption. and seasonal closures. located along the byway. Food and gas can be found in Castle Rock, Silver Lake, Toutle and Kid Valley. W eyerhaeuser Forest Learning Center Continue east over the half-mile- Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: long bridge over Hoffstadt Creek, and Columbia River Gorge, Pacific Coast, Lewis and Clark Trail enter the blast zone. The Weyerhaeuser Local Resource: : Forest Learning Center, at milepost Cowlitz County Tourism Bureau www.visitmtsthelens.com

photos 33, PATRICK BENNETT describes the work of foresters

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 79 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

Swiftwater Corridor

Swiftwater Corridor The Swiftwater Corridor features sun-drenched views of pine forestland, pristine waters and valley cattle ranches.

he and the play host Tyear round to campers, snowmobilers and fishermen. The corridor contains historic towns, logging camps, mines and ranches. Remains of the boom times abound—access a vast wilderness from a former railroad , or belly up to the bar in Washington’s oldest tavern. This byway rambles through the back roads between Salmon La Sac and Ellensburg and reveals natural beauty, signs of the past and country communities that travelers on the speedier miss out on entirely.

A lpine Lakes Wilderness The byway begins with this stunning section of the Okanogan and Wenatchee national forests. Encompassing nearly 400,000 acres with 47 trailheads and 615 miles of trails, the area takes its name from nearly 700 small alpine lakes found in the valleys lying between jagged granite peaks. Access to the southwestern end of the wilderness is from Salmon La Sac, a camping area about 10 miles north of Roslyn on Salmon La Sac Road. Cle Elum Lake, a reservoir, lines one side of the road. The surrounding wilderness is home to black c le elum bears, elk, deer, cougars, bobcats, beavers, otters, badgers, , mink and weasel. Birds from white-tailed ptarmigan to bald eagles abound here also. For in-depth information on birding along this byway, order Audubon Washington’s Great Washington State Birding Trail— Sun and Sage Loop at http://wa.audubon.org.

Salmon La Sac de u z

The mineral rush in this region brought the Kittitas Railway

and Power Company, financed by French investors in 1911. With bill , it came the construction of a depot at Salmon La Sac, a wilderness bottom

area located at the beginning of this byway. ; The depot, now on the National Register of Historic Places, sits bennett at the entrance to the Salmon La Sac campground. In summer,

this place is filled with campers, anglers and hikers heading atrick , P

into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Wintertime sees an influx of op snowmobile riders. Don’t expect a town in Salmon La Sac—but : T

you can find a restaurant and snowmobile rentals in the village of photos alpine lakes wildernesss swiftwater corridor

Ronald, which you’ll drive through along dogsledders find fun here. No motorized a historic wooden water-flume irrigation the way. vehicles are allowed on the trail, except system—all excellent photo ops. on the higher-elevation stretches, where Roslyn snowmobiles are permitted in winter. E llensburg Embarking east on SR-903 along the In Ellensburg the byway ends, but the byway, you’ll drive through the heart of T horp discoveries don’t. Here you’ll find a rich Roslyn, a coal-mining town founded in As you follow SR-10 from Cle Elum, and genuine culture thanks to a vibrant the late 1800s. The historic buildings don’t miss the tiny community of Thorp. arts community, the influence of the and weathered wood facades caught the A gristmill that was built in the 1870s still Central Washington University student attention of Hollywood location scouts, stands, and visitors are welcome. Also, an population and plenty of cowpokes. and the town was reborn in the 1990s odd combination fruit/antique stand here All of this is woven beautifully into the as Cicely, Alaska, on the popular show sells preserves and locally grown produce fabric of a historic downtown district. “Northern Exposure.” along with antique home furnishings. A vibrant farmers’ market, a brewery Today it offers a number of unique Keep on the lookout for remnants of offering handcrafted beers and a few stops for travelers, including the Brick long-abandoned gas stations, motels and noteworthy bakeries are located here. Tavern (the oldest tavern in Washington), the town’s small café (with its familiar outdoor Roslyn mural), a historical museum and a miners’ memorial. Don’t miss the Roslyn Historical Cemetery, which is actually a couple dozen separate cemeteries located adjacent to one another. Here the deceased are segregated by lodge or church affiliation and often by nationality. At least 24 countries are represented here, a testament to the diversity of the region’s mine workers.

C le Elum and Planning Tips Driving Distance 42 MILES Further east, you’ll find the town of Cle T GeTTING here: From Seattle, take Drive time 2 hours Elum. Garlic lovers will want to visit in I-90 east to Roslyn (85 miles / 90 minutes). February, when the town hosts its annual Take the Salmon La Sac Road about 10 miles north plan to spend 1 day Bagna Cauda Festival—a local celebration from Roslyn to reach the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and Salmon La Sac Recreational Area. best seasons* y ear round of a traditional Italian dip so potent it is guaranteed to keep vampires away. Gas, Food and Lodging: top adventures A golf resort, hotels, motels, inns, and other Nearby is the longest, narrowest state park *Portions of the route are e

d accommodations can found from Roslyn to Ellensburg, and camping is plentiful. u not maintained in winter, z

in Washington. Iron Horse State Park is There are a lot of good locally owned eateries in Roslyn, Cle Elum and Ellensburg. so check www.dot.wa.gov ill b

a 1,612-acre park that was once on the Gas can be found in all the communities along the byway, but always gas up before for road conditions and , path of the Chicago-Milwaukee-St. Paul- you head into the wilderness areas. seasonal closures. ottom b

; Pacific Railroad. More than 100 miles of Connected or Nearby Scenic Byways: Mountains to Sound trail extends from Cedar Falls (near North Greenway, Yakima River Canyon, Stevens Pass (via US-97/Blewett Pass), ennett b Bend) to the Columbia River. Cascade Loop trick

a The trail encompasses a variety of Local Resources: Alpine Lakes Wilderness www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/cle-elum-wilderness , o ecosystems and geological zones. Hikers Cle Elum/Roslyn Chamber of Commerce www.cleelumroslyn.org : and bikers enjoy it in the summer, and in Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce www.visitellen.com

photos p the T winter, P cross-country skiers and even

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 81 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

W hidbey Scenic Isle Way Whidbey Scenic Isle Way Welcome to “Island Time”

e bey’s landing NATIONAL HISTORIC RESERVE

ocated entirely on a single island and Langley a series of marked locations around L a mere hour from downtown Seattle, Perched on a bluff overlooking Saratoga Northwest waters where the public this byway is as accessible as it is leisurely. Passage and the Cascades, the seaside may get a glimpse of orcas along with And, 20 minutes of the journey includes village of Langley is an artist’s haven and other marine mammals and wildlife. a relaxing Washington State ferry ride. stroller’s paradise. Watch skilled artisans For more information, visit www. The transformation from mainland to blow glass; explore galleries, antique shops thewhaletrail.org. island is not just physical—it is also and bookstores; visit a coffee roaster; psychological. The pace of life slows, dine with a view; taste wines; and relax in H istoric forts and lighthouses traffic jams are nonexistent and tension upscale waterside accommodations. Take In the 1890s, Whidbey Island was vanishes. Welcome to “island time.” in the gorgeous views of Mount Baker and considered a bulwark against possible Whidbey Island is a Mecca for artists watch for gray whales feeding near shore enemy invasion of Puget Sound. of all stripes—visual, literary, performing from February through May. If you spot and Fort Ebey, both near and culinary. Studios and galleries are one, you get to ring the town’s whale bell! Coupeville, long ago stood down, but tucked in among small boutiques, coffee the former’s underground bunkers and shops, wineries, microbreweries, and South Whidbey State Park the latter’s concrete platforms marking artisan chocolatiers. Eateries feature A camping park with 347 acres and gun locations are exciting spots for seafood from local 4,500 feet of saltwater shoreline on exploration (and imagination). waters and produce , this lush park includes Views of the Admiralty Inlet and the from island farms. old-growth forest and remarkable Strait of Juan de Fuca are fantastic— Take a walk on views of Puget Sound and the Olympic after all, watching for an attack on those a sandy beach or Mountains. waters was the reason why these forts sit on a hunk of Outdoor recreation includes 3.5 miles were built. driftwood and of hiking trails, beachcombing, saltwater Stay or just play

ponder the view. fishing, swimming and tidelands for chin

The salt air, the crabbing and clamming. There’s also a Today, Fort Casey State Park is a year- darien friendly people variety of birding and wildlife viewing. round camping park with a lighthouse , and the local to visit, historic guns on display and bottom fare allow you O n the Whale Trail opportunities for boating, hiking and ; stilz to savor your Several locations on the newly saltwater fishing. Designated areas for tom day and renew developed “Whale Trail” are found remote-control gliders and kite flying , top yourself for the along this route in Langley, Keystone add to the fun. : coming week. and Coupeville. This trail consists of This is also the site of the eastern photos use m ilteouk lightho 82 whidbey scenic isle way

terminal of the Coupeville-Port O ak Harbor marine and camping park offers beaches, Townsend state ferry run, boasting the Oak Harbor is Whidbey’s biggest city old-growth forests, plenty of wildlife, newest ferries in the state’s system— and home to the Whidbey Island Naval dramatic cliffs, 77,000 feet of saltwater the Chetzemoka. Reservations are Air Station. During regular training, Navy shoreline and 34,000 feet of freshwater recommended for this limited schedule jets can be seen—and heard—circling shoreline on three lakes. The bridge route (www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries). above Coupeville and Oak Harbor. and the cliffs it spans may look familiar In downtown Oak Harbor, check out to you because this spectacular site has F ort Ebey State Park the new PBY Foundation Memorial been featured in numerous national Continuing north, Fort Ebey State which includes an interpretive center commercials. Hiking, biking and horse Park is another all-season camping and one of the original amphibious trails are available, while boating, fishing park with 3 miles of saltwater planes that flew off Whidbey in 1943. (catfish, cod, salmon), kayaking and shoreline on the Strait of Juan de Several excellent restaurants, seafood freshwater swimming are among the Fuca, a freshwater lake for fishing, shops and handcrafted-ale pubs can be many recreation options. ebey’s landing NATIONAL HISTORIC RESERVE plus extensive hiking and biking trails. found here. As you drive slowly across this bridge This park is a popular surfing area, and crowded with pedestrians enjoying the seaweed harvesting is allowed from mid- D eception Pass State Park view, reflect on this little-known fact; April to mid-May. Set on both sides of the handsome Deception Pass has more visitors each Deception Pass Bridge, this all-season year than the Grand Canyon! W alkable Coupeville In charming Coupeville, be sure to pick up a walking-tour map of more than 50 buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Today many of them house waterfront shops, bed- and-breakfasts, art galleries, bookstores and restaurants. Planning Tips Home of the delectable, world- T GeTTING here: Take the ferry from famous Penn Cove mussels, Coupeville Mukilteo, 30-minutes north of Seattle, to Clinton, the southernmost town on the island. The has many restaurants, cafes and taverns 54-mile byway begins on SR-525, which becomes that incorporate these delicacies, along SR-20 near the town of Coupeville. Contact www. with other locally grown products, into dot.wa.gov/ferries for ferry schedules and rates. their menus. Gas, Food and Lodging: Accommodations, including hotels, E bey’s Landing cabins, inns, bed and breakfasts, campgrounds National Historic Reserve and RV parks, can be easily found on the byway. Restaurants and cafes are also easy to find in the For an even greater sense of this area’s island’s towns. Gas stations are plentiful along history, visit Ebey’s Landing National the much of the main route. A Savor Washington Historic Reserve. This 24-square-mile “Farm to Fork” itinerary for the area is available at http://www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/ hin

c mosaic of 17 working farms, iconic SavorWA.aspx. barns and rambling trails has been Driving Distance 54 MILES arien d

, Connected or Nearby preserved as living history. Don’t miss Drive time 75iu m n tES Scenic Byways: San Juan Islands,

ottom the breathtaking vistas along a popular b

Chuckanut Drive, North Cascades, and a ; plan to spend 1 day trail that climbs a beach bluff. portion of the Cascade Loop tilz s In Coupeville, at the intersection best seasons y ear round om t Local Resource: , of Main Street and SR-20, follow

t Whidbey- Tourism : top adventures signs to Ebey’s Landing National www.whidbeycamanoislands.com Historic Reserve. photos op

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 83 stateni sce c byways

Y akama Scenic Byway

Yakama Scenic Byway This byway slices through the Yakama people’s ancestral

homeland, much of it now known as the Yakama Reservation. Mt.as Ad m behind Tahklahk Lake

he Yakama Scenic Byway runs of farmers and growers in Washington abundant wildlife, birding and even Tsouth from the city of Yakima State. Nearly any implement that was wild horses, www.YNWildlife.org. (yes, a different spelling) on US-97 ever used to farm the land can be to where the highway meets SR-14 found here. D owntown Toppenish murals at the Columbia River. The byway Toppenish is located entirely within begins where arid desert hills drop into Y akama Nation Cultural Center the bounds of the Yakama Nation. productive plains—the Yakima Valley is Approaching Toppenish, you’ll see a Toppenish’s museums, Native American one of the world’s leading agricultural building with a distinctive roofline. It’s and Western traditions, cultural diversity regions. The influence and presence fashioned after an ancient Yakama winter and 73 historically accurate murals create of the Yakama people can be keenly lodge, and marks the Yakama Nation an inviting atmosphere for anyone with felt along this byway; museums and a Cultural Center. This 30-year-old a passion for history. cultural center, and a restaurant featuring museum tells the story of the Yakama This town is also home to The American authentic Yakama fare, are just a handful people from their own perspective. Life Hop Museum, and directly across the of ways travelers can learn more about the sized reproductions of dwellings, audio- street, The Northern Pacific Railway original inhabitants of this land. visual displays, and artifacts are just part Museum. Visit www.toppenish.net of the “Yakama Experience.” for more information about U pnion Ga Sample traditional dishes like salmon, downtown Toppenish. This small town marks an actual gap buffalo stew or steak, finished off with in the landscape that leads into the huckleberry pie and handmade ice cream F ort Simcoe Historical State Park bountiful Yakima Valley. Duck into in the museum’s Heritage Inn Restaurant, A day-use heritage park since 1956, town and look for a small restaurant that or overnight in a tepee at the nearby , located 27 miles west of serves mouthwatering handmade tamales Yakama Nation RV Park, www.YNRV. Toppenish on SR-220 is a fascinating (authentic and delicious Mexican food com. The campus is further graced by a side trip and was listed on the National wendt

is easy to find in this region) then begin splendid view of Mount Adams. Register of Historic Places in 1974. your drive through ‘The Gap’. The Cultural Center is open seven days Revealing much about army life in those If you’re captivated by the hop and a week; guided tours and storytelling days, it also offers insights into local stephanie , mint fields spread before you, and the are available by appointment. www. Yakama Nation traditions in the 1850s. right fruit orchards in the hills, you may YakamaMuseum.com You’ll find plenty The park has original blockhouses ;

want to consider a stop at The Central of great gaming and entertainment and officers’ homes, large, grassy areas istock , Washington Agricultural Museum. nearby at the Tribe’s popular casino, for sports, picnic tables, and a short left This free (donations suggested) museum www.LegendsCasino.com. Throughout hiking trail. Seasonal birding includes :

provides a look at the history and lives Yakama country, you’ll encounter Lewis woodpeckers, owls, eagles, hawks, photos

84 Ya kAma Scenic Byway

the . Maryhill Museum of Art and Nine miles of hiking and Stonehenge Memorial biking trails lead to grand This castle-like chateau perched views of Mount Hood. above the Columbia River houses

terfly ue but This is also a prime winter a world class art collection ranging silvery bl spot for cross-country skiing. from Native American antiquities to sculptures and watercolors by August and wrens; mammals in the park include G oldendale Observatory State Park Rodin (including the a pedestal-sized bobcats, deer, elk and badgers. An unusual public facility, this plaster version of The Thinker). Also state park is a mere five acres atop a near the grounds, incongruent and T oppenish National Wildlife Refuge 2,100-foot-high hilltop, with a view of spectacular, is a replica of England’s As US-97 bends southward from the entire universe. Featuring one of the ancient Stonehenge. The monument Toppenish, it crosses through a nearly nation’s largest public telescopes, the serves as a memorial to soldiers from Mt. Adams behind Tahklahk Lake 2000-acre oasis of wetlands, grasslands park’s observatory has attracted amateur Washington State that died in WWI, and wildlife. The Toppenish National astronomers since 1973 and is open to WWII, the Korean and Vietnam Wildlife Refuge draws on streams and anyone who wants a look. conflicts, www.maryhillmuseum.org. summer irrigation to provide food and breeding grounds for migratory birds, and habitat for animals. It’s also part of Audubon Washington’s Great Washington State Birding Trail—Sun and Sage Loop. Planning Tips

Getting There: From Seattle, take St. John the Forerunner Monastery I-90 eastbound to Ellensburg then I-82 Located at milepost 24 between (or take the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway, Toppenish and Goldendale, you can SR-821) to the starting point in Union Gap, just 3-miles south of downtown Yakima (150-miles / stop at this Greek Orthodox Monastery, 2.5 hours). The 76-mile byway follows US-97 from home to 20 nuns and novices. Here you Union Gap, across the tribal land of the Yakama can pick up refrigerated dinners and Nation and Satus Pass to Goldendale and the pastries (perfect for campers looking Columbia River Gorge. for a gourmet fix) along with a large Gas, Food and Lodging: Hotels, selection of handmade soaps, candles motels, campgrounds and RV parks are and traditional art. This is a truly found in every community along this byway. Gas is available along the route, with the exception unique experience. of the stretch from Toppenish to Goldendale. A Savor Washington Itinerary: Yakima Valley T he Satus Pass crossing and for is available at www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/ Brooks Memorial State Park SmallFarm/SavorWA.aspx. Satus Pass, at 3,100 feet, has superb connected or nearby Driving Distance 76 MILES endt Scenic Byways: Columbia

w

views of distinctive volcano-formed hills: narrow ridges, trending in an east-west Drive time 1.5 hours River Gorge, Lewis and Clark Trail, White Pass, Chinook Pass

tephanie direction. Keep an eye on the hillsides s

plan to spend 1 day , Local ResourceS: for wild horses. This mountain range ight Yakama Nation r

; best seasons* sr p ing, summer, fall is one of the few remaining areas in www.YakamaNation-nsn.gov Yakima County & stock

i Washington where horses still run free.

top adventures , A few miles south of the pass, Brooks Visitors Bureau www.visityakima.com l

: *The route is open year round. Check www.dot.wa.gov for road Toppenish Chamber of Commerce Memorial State Park is a 700-acre, year- conditions and periodic winter closures over Satus Pass. www.Toppenish.net

photos eft round camping park set in the forests of

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 85 stateSNI CE C BYWAYS

Yakima River Canyon The short and sweet Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway is one of Washington’s best-kept secrets.

lso known as Canyon Road or SR-821, this byway is A an efficient, dazzling alternative to driving I-82 between Ellensburg and Yakima. An 18-mile trip that is scenic year- around, Canyon Road follows the Yakima River on a lonely, curvy road, between high desert hills covered in sagebrush. BLM manages over 9,000 acres in the Yakima River Canyon area, including four developed river access sites. This is a must see destination for the consummate birder, wildlife watcher, fly fisherman or photographer. Canyon Road features stately basalt cliffs that rise dramatically above the meandering Yakima River, where rafters, inner tubers and fly fishermen somehow find a way to coexist. Rangeland and ranches lie to the east. To the west is the sprawling , where springtime flowers bloom in brilliant yellow, purple and orange and wildlife viewing is accessible all season from a trailhead that crosses the river and leads up to the canyon ridge.

Recreation on land and water Outdoor-recreation enthusiasts will find great hiking through rolling hills and rafting opportunities on the Yakima River. The canyon is famous for year-round water sports and is widely regarded as one of the finest destinations for fly and drift-boat fishing in the nation. This stretch of the Yakima River is the only Blue Ribbon trout fishery in the state.

U mtanum Creek Recreation Area A few miles south of Ellensburg, the Umtanum Creek Recreation Area, an ideal place for rafting, kayaking or fishing on the Yakima River, offers aspen and cottonwood groves, surrounding remnants of historic homesteads with their remaining untended apple and walnut trees. In spring, the desert comes to life with a dazzling display of wildflowers. Beavers are busy modifying the creek, and the Audubon Society recognizes : PATRICK BENNETT

Umtanum as an important birding area; photos

rafting the canyon yaki ma river canyon yrakima iver canyon

there are lots of viewing opportunities. Recreation Area, overseen by the Bureau southern half. If you want to stalk this Rattlesnakes are also common during of Land Management. A reservoir there rarest of rare plants, June is the best late spring and in the summer—leave is used for boating, swimming and month to spy them blooming in the them alone and stay alert so you can rafting, and this is the last take-out point basalt columns, looking like bouquets enjoy your visit. for floaters and anglers on the river. left behind by rock climbers. Park in the lot and cross a suspension Binoculars are recommended to see bridge over the river and head out for Selah Cliffs Natural Area Preserve the flower, which exists nowhere else an easy hike along the creek, or ascend a Five miles northeast of Selah, in the world. But look around, too, at succession of ridges to see snowcapped stretching along Selah Creek from the cliffs within the project area; they’re a mountain peaks to the west and the Saddle eastern edge of SR-821 and I-82, the prime habitat for prairie falcons and Mountains and endless desert to the east. Selah Cliffs Natural Area Preserve is an golden eagles. Wildlife viewing includes California excellent example of a private and public The byway officially ends as SR-821 bighorn sheep, mule deer, Rocky partnership that resulted in conservation rejoins the rushing traffic of I-82. But if Mountain elk, and coyotes. Golden of an endangered habitat. The preserve, you want to celebrate your discovery of eagles gracefully soar high above on open to the public, is home to a rare this remote byway, cross the river into the thermals that rise from the canyon population of basalt daisy, a threatened Selah, buy a can of apple juice and raise floor. The basalt cliffs here, with their plant that certainly looks dainty and a toast to your travels in the town that clefts and crevices, are home to the only grows high up in cracks in the dubs itself “the apple juice capital of densest population of nesting raptors rock left by ancient lava in the canyon’s the world.” in the state of Washington. For a

truly comprehensive look at birding opportunities along this byway, go to Planning Tips http://wa.audubon.org and look for the T GeTTING here: From Seattle, take Great Washington State Birding Trail— I-90 east for 107 miles to Ellensburg Sun and Sage Loop. (about a 1.5-hour drive) and take the exit for SR-821 South/Canyon Road. The byway runs all Rozam Da the way to an intersection south of Selah, where it merges onto I-82 south heading toward Yakima. Down the road from Umtanum Creek and 10 miles north of Yakima is Roza Gas, Food and Lodging: Motels, Dam. Built in 1939, the dam diverts resorts, RV parks and other lodging are plentiful at both ends of the byway in Ellensburg, water to irrigate the otherwise arid land Selah and Yakima. Gas is available in Ellensburg at in the lower Yakima Valley, making it the north entrance and in Selah and Yakima at the one of the most bountiful agricultural south. Gas up before you head through the canyon. regions in the world. Every vegetable you Restaurants featuring locally grown cuisine are easy to find at both ends of the canyon in can imagine—and some you’ve never Ellensburg and Yakima. Check with the visitor heard of—along with tree-ripened fruits center in Ellensburg or Yakima (see the resources like apples, cherries, peaches, pears, and below for their Web addresses) and find out where plums, and of course hops and wine the locals eat. That’s where the best food and conversation will be found. grapes, are grown in the valley’s desert thanks in large part to the water diverted Connected or Nearby Scenic Driving Distance 18 MILES from this dam. byways: Swiftwater Corridor, Mountains to Sound Greenway, White Pass, Chinook Pass Drive time 75iu m n tES Take in the impressive operation, and don’t miss the fish ladder where Local Resources: plan to spend 1 day salmon and endangered steelhead make Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce www.visitellen.com best seasons y ear round their heroic upstream leaps on the long Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors : journey home. Bureau www.visityakima.com top adventures

photos PATRICK BENNETT Just above Roza Dam is the Roza

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 87 infomtionr a

Scenic Byway Designations

The byways are broken down into three tiers: All American beauty and breathtaking vistas. A selected byway must Roads, National Scenic Byways and State Scenic Byways. also demonstrate rich and varied archaeological, cultural, These designations are awarded by the U.S. Department of historical, natural, and recreational qualities. We’ve even Transportation’s Federal Highway Administration based on included several “Savor Washington: Farm to Fork” itineraries a rigorous grant application process and development of a for you to experience along the way. There is truly something “corridor management plan” by the destination marketing for everyone to enjoy on these treasured pathways. organizations and city planners. You, the traveler, are rewarded by simply being able to plan This process involves countless hours of work and some time, select a direction and drive. It is our sincere hope coordination with local communities and state agencies such that you will use this guide to plan many road trips across our as Tourism, Fish & Wildlife (with assistance from Audubon wonderful state. Also of note is that the estimated travel times Washington), Transportation, Parks, and Agriculture to indicated in the planning tips in each byway come in two ensure proper signage, infrastructure and travel adventures forms: the time it takes to accomplish the drive from start to are available along the selected routes. finish and the time it may take to stop and enjoy a few of its The definition of “scenic” goes far beyond natural distinct experiences.

Scenic Byways Quick Reference Guide

Statewide and National Resources All American Roads

Washington State Tourism Washington State Department of Agriculture C hinook Pass Scenic Byway g– Pa e 9 www.experiencewa.com/scenic-byways.aspx Savor Washington www.chinookscenicbyway.com Phone: 360-594-4010 / 1-877-260-2731 www.agr.wa.gov/Marketing/SmallFarm/ Phone: 360-825-7666 or 205-304-3598 SavorWA.aspx Washington State Parks Phone: 360-902-1800 www.parks.wa.gov International Selkirk Loop – Page 15 Audubon Washington Phone: 360-902-8844 / 1-888-CAMP-OUT www.selkirkloop.org http://wa.audubon.org/ Phone: 208-267-0822 Washington State Department of Fish & Wildlife Phone: 206-652-2444 http://wdfw.wa.gov Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance National Scenic Byways Phone: 360-902-2200 www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp www.byways.org/explore/states/WA Phone: 208-437-0274 Washington State Department of Transportation Phone: 1-800-4BYWAYS www.wsdot.wa.gov/localprograms/ National Parks Service scenicbyways/map.htm www.nps.gov Phone: 360-705-7000 Phone: 360-854-7200

Washington State Ferries U.S. Forest Service www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries www.fs.fed.us Phone: 206-464-6400 / 1-888-808-7977 Phone: 1-800-832-1355

88 infomtionr a

National Scenic Byways State Scenic Byways Skamania County Chamber of Commerce www.skamania.org Phone: 509-427-8911 / 1-800-989-9178 C oulee Corridor – Page 21 C ape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway – Page 40 Vancouver USA Tourism www.couleecorridor.com M akah Nation www.visitvancouverusa.com Phone: 509-632-8638 www.makah.com Phone: 360-750-1553 / 1-877-600-0800 Phone: 360-645-2201 Grand Coulee Chamber of Commerce www.grandcouleedam.org Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 Cranberry Coast Scenic Byway – Page 52 Phone: 509-633-3074 www.highway112.org C ranberry Coast Tourism 1-800-COULEE2 Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042 www.cranberrycoast.net Grant County Tourism Olympic Peninsula Tourism Cranberry Coast Chamber of Commerce www.tourgrantcounty.com www.olympicpeninsula.org www.cranberrycoastcoc.com Phone: 509-754-2011 Ext. 331 Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042 Phone: 360-268-9422 / 1-800-345-6223

Mountains to Sound Greenway – Page 25 Cascade Loop – Page 42 Grays Harbor Tourism http://visitgraysharbor.com M ountains to Sound Greenway Trust C ascade Loop Association Phone: 1-800-621-9625 www.mtsgreenway.org www.cascadeloop.com Phone: 206-382-5565 Phone: 509-662-3888 Hidden Coast Scenic Byway – Page 54 Lake Chelan Tourism Washington Coast Chamber of Commerce Stevens Pass Greenway – Page 29 www.cometothelake.com www.washingtoncoastchamber.org. www.stevenspassgreenway.org Phone: 1-877-440-7933 Phone: 360-677-2030 [email protected] Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce Grays Harbor Tourism Leavenworth Chamber of Commerce www.leavenworth.org http://visitgraysharbor.com www.leavenworth.org Phone: 509-548-5807 Phone: 509-548-5807 Phone: 1-800-621-9625 Skagit Valley Tourism (Mt. Vernon Chamber) Ocean Shores Sky Valley Visitor Information Center www.visitskagitcounty.com www.tourismoceanshores.com www.skyvalleychamber.com Phone: 360-428-8547 Phone: 360-289-9586 / 1-866-60-COAST Snohomish County Tourism Cascade Valleys – Page 46 www.snohomish.org Lewis & Clark Trail – Page 56 Phone: 425-348-5802 Woodinville Tourism www.lewisandclarktrail.com/section4/ 1-888-338-0976 www.ci.woodinville.wa.us/play/tourism.asp washington.htm Phone: 425-489-2700 Wenatchee Valley Visitors Bureau Hells Canyon Visitor Bureau www.wenatcheevalley.org Redmond Tourism www.hellscanyonvisitor.com Phone: 1-800-572-7753 www.experienceredmond.com Phone: 509-758-7489 / 1-877-774-7248 Snoqualmie Valley Chamber of Commerce Strait of Juan de Fuca - Highway 112 Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce www.snovalley.org/vg_attractions.html Page 33 www.mtadamschamber.com Phone: 425-888-4440 www.highway112.org Phone: 509-493-3630 Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042 Outside Seattle Skamania County Chamber of Commerce www.outsideseattle.org Olympic Peninsula Tourism www.skamania.org www.olympicpeninsula.org Phone: 509-427-8911 / 1-800-989-9178 Chuckanut Drive – Page 48 Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042 Tri-Cities Visitors Bureau C huckanut Drive Association Sekiu-Clallam Bay Chamber www.visittri-cities.com www.chuckanutdrive.com www.sekiu.com Phone: 509-735-8486 / 1-800-254-5824 Phone: 360-963-2339 / 1-877-694-9433 Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism Vancouver USA Tourism www.bellingham.org www.visitvancouverusa.com White Pass Scenic Byway – Page 37 Phone: 360-671-3990 / 1-800-487-2032 Phone: 360-750-1553 / 1-877-600-0800 www.whitepassbyway.com Columbia River Gorge – Page 50 Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau Phone: 360-494-2223 C olumbia River Gorge Visitors Association www.funbeach.com Visit Rainier www.crgva.org Phone: 360-642-2400/1-800-451-2542 www.visitrainier.com Phone: 1-800-98-GORGE Phone: 360-748-4514 / 1-877-270-7155 Mount Adams Chamber of Commerce www.mtadamschamber.com Phone: 509-493-3630

Washington State’s Scenic Byways & Road Trips 89

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M t. Baker Scenic Byway – Page 60 Port Angeles Chamber of Commerce Swiftwater Corridor Scenic Byway – Page 80 www.portangeles.org M ount Baker Foothills Chamber of Commerce Alpine Lakes Wilderness Phone: 360-452-2363 www.mtbakerchamber.org (Cle Elum Ranger Station) Phone: 360-599-1518 Grays Harbor Tourism www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/cle-elum- www.visitgraysharbor.com wilderness Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism Phone: 1-800-621-9625 Phone: 509-852-1100 www.bellingham.org Phone: 360-671-3990 / 1-800-487-2032 Willapa Harbor Chamber of Commerce Cle Elum/Roslyn Chamber of Commerce www.willapaharbor.org www.cleelumroslyn.org Glacier Chamber of Commerce Phone: 509-674-5958 www.glacierchamber.org Phone: 360-942-541 Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce Phone: 360-599-2714 Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau www.visitellen.com www.funbeach.com Phone: 509-925-3137 / 1-888-925-2204 North Cascades Scenic HIghway – Page 62 Phone: 360-642-2400 / 1-800-451-2542

C ascade Loop Association Whidbey Scenic Isle Way – Page 82 www.cascadeloop.com Palouse Scenic Byway – Page 72 Whidbey- Camano Island Tourism Phone: 509-662-3888 www.palousescenicbyway.com www.whidbeycamanoislands.com Phone: 509-334-3565 / 1-800-365-6948 Skagit Valley Tourism Phone: 360-675-5412 / 1-888-747-7777 www.visitskagitcounty.com Pullman Chamber of Commerce Snohomish County Tourism Phone: 360-428-8547 www.pullmanchamber.com www.snohomish.org Winthrop Tourism Phone: 509-334-3565 / 1-800-ENJOY-IT Phone: 425-348-5802 / 1-888-338-0976 www.winthropwashington.com Skagit Valley Tourism Phone: 509-996-2125 / 1-888-463-8469 San Juan Islands Scenic Byway – Page 74 www.visitskagitcounty.com San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau Phone: 360-428-8547 North Pend Oreille Scenic Byway – Page 64 www.visitsanjuans.com/visitors/scenic-byway Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance Phone: 1-888-468-3701 x 1 Yakama Scenic Byway – Page 84 www.porta-us.com/pages/activities/byway.asp Y akama Nation Sherman Pass Scenic Byway – Page 76 Phone: 509-447-5286 www.yakamanation-nsn.gov International Selkirk Loop R epublic Tourism Phone: 509-865-5121 www.republicwa.org www.selkirkloop.org Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau Phone: 509-775-3216 Phone: 208-267-0822 www.visityakima.com Kettle Falls Visitor Center Phone: 509-575-3010 / 1-800-221-0751 Okanogan Trails Scenic Byway – Page 66 www.nps.gov.laro Goldendale Chamber of Commerce Okanogan County Tourism Council Phone: 509-738-2300 www.goldendalechamber.org/visitors www.okanogancountry.com Colville Chamber of Commerce Phone: 509-773-3400 Phone: 1-888-431-3080 www.colville.com Phone: 509-684-5973 Yakima River Canyon – Page 86 PacificC oast Scenic Byway – Page 68 Ellensburg Chamber of Commerce Northwest Tribal Tourism Spirit Lake Memorial Highway www.visitellen.com www.explorepacificnwtribes.com (Mount St. Helens) – Page 78 Phone: 509-925-3137 / 1-888-925-2204

North Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau C owlitz County Tourism Bureau Yakima Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau www.olympicpeninsula.org www.visitmtsthelens.com www.visityakima.com Phone: 360-452-8552 / 1-800-942-4042 Phone: 360-577-3137 Phone: 509-575-3010 / 1-800-221-0751

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