31465_Cover 12/2/02 9:59 am Page 2

ISSUE 25 - SPRING 2002 £2.50

Firestarters Choosing a Stove Summits of Desire International Year of FESTIVAL OF Visionaries & Vandals SKI- Grit Under Attack GUIDEBOOKS - THE FUTURE TUPLILAK • LEADERSHIP • METALLIC EQUIPMENT • NUTRITION

FOREWORD... NEW SUMMITS

s the new BMC Chief Officer, writing my first ever Summit Aforeword has been a strangely traumatic experience.

After 5 years as BMC Access Officer - suddenly my head is on the block. Do I set out my vision for the future of the BMC or comment on the changing face of British climbing? Do I talk about the threats to the cliff and envi- ronment and the challenges of new access legislation? How about the lessons learnt from foot and mouth disease or September 11th and the recent four fold hike in insurance premiums? Big issues I’m sure you’ll agree - but for this edition I going to keep it simple and say a few words about the single most important thing which makes the BMC tick - volunteer involvement. Dave Turnbull - The new BMC Chief Officer Since its establishment in 1944 the BMC has relied heavily on volunteers and today the skills, experience and enthusi- District meetings spearheaded by John Horscroft and team asm that the many 100s of volunteers contribute to climb- are pointing the way forward on this front. These have turned ing and hill walking in the UK is immense. For years, stal- into real social occasions with lively debates on everything warts in the BMC’s guidebook team has churned out quality from bolts to birds, with attendances of up to 60 people guidebooks such as Chatsworth and On Peak Rock and the and lively slideshows to round off the evenings - long may BMC is firmly committed to getting this important Commit- they continue. Other areas including the Lakes, the north tee back on its feet after the recent downturn in fortunes. West, Yorkshire and the South West would benefit from simi- Volunteer Access Reps play a vital role in maintaining and lar impetus, new blood and fresh ideas and I’d encourage improving access arrangements throughout England and anyone with an interest to up at these meetings, stir Wales - their efforts often going unnoticed and their only things up, rattle some cages and help create lively, healthy satisfaction being the knowledge that they have helped forums in your own area. maintain access to our precious crags and mountains. The What I’m trying to stress is the importance of volunteer BMC’s Management & Specialist Committees (Access, Tech- support for the BMC and to say that the opportunities to get nical, Training, Youth, Walls and others) comprise technical involved are many and varied. If at the end of the day all experts who advise the BMC on everything from land man- you want from the BMC is a quality insurance package and agement in the uplands, safety standards for helmets, child peace of mind that we’re taking care of access, then fair protection, risk management and equity issues - not to enough, but if you’d like to put something back into British mention the future direction of the organisation as a whole. climbing then why not get in touch by going to Indoor events and youth meets are another area where www.thebmc.co.uk and click on ‘Getting Involved’, or more volunteers are vital - try running a major competition with- radical still - give us a call or drop us a line. out volunteers and you’d soon see what I mean. But its not just people with special skills or interests who can get involved. All climbers, hill walkers and mountain- eers can get involved by simply pitching up at one of the BMC’s quarterly meetings held in 9 different areas around England and Wales (see p48 for dates/venues). The Peak BMC Chief Officer A big thank you! In December BMC Membership topped ices, members can access a fantastic Life Assurance and Income Protection scheme that doesn’t load against risk 55,000 for the first time ever, and we sports. And later in the year we’ll see a brand new Members would like to say a huge thank you to Handbook including a mass of useful information, a new all our club and individual members publications catalogue giv- for their continuing support. ing you even better dis- counts on an increased By being a BMC member you make possible a tremendous range of books and much range of vital programs since all the income from member- more. ship, publications and insurance goes directly into support- ing the BMC’s work. We wish you all the best With the new Mountain Services structure in place we are on the hills, and look insurance guide cover committed to constantly improving the membership pack- forward to serving you age. We start this year with our best ever Travel Insurance over the coming year. policies and great discounts on new books like the Moun- tain Traveller’s Handbook, Care & Maintenance and the Brief History of British Mountaineering. There are members only deals including half price entry to the Helly Hansen National Mountaineering Exhibition and, via Summit Financial Serv- Don't forget the new BMC number - 0870 010 4878

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 3

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 3 11/02/2002, 10:32 AM 31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 opportunities for members. advice andprovidestraining wide rangeofsafetyandgoodpractice involvement. TheBMCpublishes a responsible fortheirownactions and aware ofandaccepttheserisks be Participants intheseactivitiesshould be danger ofpersonalinjuryordeath. mountaineering areactivitieswith a climbing, hillwalkingand Readers ofSummitareremindedthat RISK &RESPONSIBILITY care whenrespondingtoadverts. adverts. Readersareadvisedtotakereasonable accept responsibilityforinformationsuppliedin Neither theBMCnorGreenShiresPublishing submitted atthesender'srisk. publication, howevertheseare care istakenofmaterialssentfor [email protected]. Every the aboveaddressor be sentto Alex at Messenger Contributions forSummitshould work oftheBMCisto: enjoy theiractivities.Theprimary mountaineers andthefreedomto interests ofclimbers,hillwalkersand Council. TheBMCpromotesthe of theBritishMountaineering is themembershipmagazine Summit PUBLISHED &PRINTEDBY W W W W W e-mail: mem BMC, 177-179BurtonRoad, information formembers. Provide and excellence. programmes includingyouth Support equipment. practice, facilities,trainingand Promote conservation. and promotecliffmountain Negotiate GreenShires Publishing Northants,NN168UN Telford Way,Kettering elcome to Manchester M202BB Display Advertising Display Fax: 01536382501 Tel: 01536382500 Tel: 01536382500 Fax: 01614454500 www.thebmc.co.uk Tel: 08700104878 PUBLISHING 25 EDITORIAL Gill Wootton Paula Taylor eventsandspecialist Jane Harris servicesand Classified accessimprovements and adviseongood [email protected] issue 25 of

4 FEATURES REGULARS CONTENTS 36 10 6 26 24 22 20 18 16 12 44 44 44 Summits ofdesire 44 44 44 36 36 36 Guidebooks 36 36 Forum Access news News future holds. Guidebooks -whatthe Stanage, arearestrictions. ParkSnowdonia n'Ride, Annual Gathering&AGM. Climbing,grit license, ACT launch, Festival of right oneforyou. Stoves -howtochoosethe Our greatnewpolicies. Insurance not born. Mountain leadersaremade, Leadership Farrington. Nutrition onthego,byJo Body Fuel indoors. Bringing theoutdoors Outdoors Show The biggesteventof2001. Climbing Festival of Greenland. Al Powell's coldtripto Tupilak Firestarters 12/02/2002, 2:37PM Credit: IanParnell CupatClimb'01. Winner oftheSnow+Rock World Cover: AfocusedSandrine Levet. 62 53 52 50 44 42 38 32 31 28 6 6 6 FestivalofClimbing 6 6 32 32 32 Visionaries &Vandals32 32 32 Rules ofthegame. Last thoughts Mountain daysexplained. MLTB All thelatestevents. Briefing report andaccounts. Mancomsummary,Huts, Arena the world. Classic peaksfrom around Summits ofDesire The mountainenvironment. Mountains metallic equipment. Care &maintenanceof A degradinglife The damagetogritstone. vandals Visionaries & Special BMCmembersoffer. HH exhibition ski-mountaineering? Where togo The whiteway LETTERS

RAVANEL RESPONSE ANTI-SCULPTING lation. I also acknowledge the good work I am writing to express concern at the I recently moved away from Stafford- done by the BMC in this area and the content of the letter from Dan Bailey shire due to the calling of a new job. need for monitoring breeding sites so regarding the behaviour of the owner of However for a long while myself and a that they can be used for recreational the Chosalets campsite in Argentiere - couple of colleagues would enjoy noth- purposes if birds are not in residence Bernard Ravanel. The Chosalets - ing more than heading up to the or breeding attempts have failed. site is a quiet, well run site used by gritstone edges after work. The However when the BMC use phrases climbers and non-climbers from all over Roaches, Ramshaw and more recently like ‘voluntary restraint’, or ‘climbers the world. The reason for having a gate Newstones were our favourite venues, accept restrictions which are mutually which is locked at 10pm lies partly in not just because of the distance to agreed’ [Summit 24] people could be this mixed usage. Climbers are often up them but also because of the variety lead to believe that the BMC has nego- and away very early and non-climbers of climbs they offer. The Roaches of- tiated an opt out clause to the Wildlife don’t enjoy being woken up by a mass fer single and multi pitch from grades and Countryside Act [WLCA]. There is exodus for the first telepherique, it isn’t VD to E7, there are juggy routes and nothing in Section 1 of the Act that much to expect them to park the night those that require the delicate friction makes voluntary compliance of the law before 100m down the road. Climbers moves I have come to associate with an option. also seem to prefer to drive to the pub gritstone. Ramshaw rocks offer the Whilst I read endlessly about access and so the gate is locked to cut down same but I felt the here was and our rights and responsibilities I have noise after 10pm when most are a little more daunting. Finally we come read nothing about our liabilities. Nor asleep. Apart from the noise there is to Newstones, a lovely little venue with have I read anything about the CRoW the danger to campsite users. There some great bouldering and tricky little Act amendments to the WLCA, which have been several incidents including single pitch routes. I am not that com- now make climbers and hill walkers one when an inebriated climber forgot petent at climbing but I found that more liable to prosecution in respect of to put his hand-brake on, the vehicle there was enough to keep me going Schedule 1 birds. I don’t know why this ran down the hill, and was stopped only throughout the summer nights. If I felt should be. inches away from sleeping children by like bouldering there were problems I In short; the amendments to the WLCA a parked trailer. enjoyed repeating or ones I set my- mean that any climber or walker who So Bernard Ravanel is a lively char- self. If we had a little more time we recklessly disturbs a Schedule 1 bird acter. Everybody who uses Les would get the ropes out and lead some can be arrested, could loose all of their Chosalets knows that. Indeed Mr Bai- VS or HVS or even top rope E6, E7. kit including rock shoes, rope, rack, ley admits he knew it, but that still didn’t Sure there were times when I wished sack, car, risk being fined a small for- stop the bold Mr Bailey from disturbing that I could reach the next hold, or tune and receiving a custodial sentence. him at home. I think that in the circum- that the gear I was above was a little The ‘restricted access bird ban’ list is stances described most people would more than psychological but never a fantastic tool for climbers and hill walk- have reacted in the same way as M once did I feel the need to make my ers and we should all be grateful to the Ravanel. He works from 5am till 10pm own hold or widen a crack to make the BMC for producing it but at the end of everyday on the campsite - what are cam fit better. If I came off a route I the day it is a list not a law. You may your working hours Mr Bailey? did not change it, I changed myself wish to bring these changes to the no- Like most people Bernard Ravanel until I completed it. tice of your readers. It really is in every- tends to mirror the attitude of those he In an area with such an abundance one’s interest. deals with. If you are friendly and rea- of routes, grades and styles this new sonable, then so is he. With Bernard you bout of ‘rock vandalism’ shows noth- Steve Downing, Force Wildlife Officer gets out what you put in. If you have an ing more than a lack of imagination. If (& Climber), West Yorkshire Police accident in the and are stay- you cannot do a route then it has won, ing at Les Chosalets, he's the one who there is no need to bully it in to sub- - The system of restrictions agreed by keeps the press off the campsite. mission. Change your style of climb- the BMC and conservation bodies since I can accept that there are those like ing, watch others do the route you didn’t the 1970s are more than just a tool for Mr Bailey who still dream that the ma- manage, practise, learn but do not climbers - they are an excellent way of cho French-bating of the 50's and 60's sculpt in the outdoors. There are promoting self policing of restrictions is still part of the Chamonix scene, but I climbing walls always looking for route and ultimately of protecting important strongly object to the BMC giving him setters try there not on gritstone. nesting birds from disturbance - Ed. tacit support by not only publishing his views, but by also giving him a prize for Simon Hobbs, Powys best letter. The BMC represents British WRITE A LETTER AND WIN THIS BERGHAUS EXTREM mountaineering on the international THIS BERGHAUS EXTREM CROW CRIMES? SAC! scene: the last thing it should be doing I read with interest the article ‘As the Come on, write in to Summit, is giving support to xenophobic whinging crow flies’ published in Summit 24, with any news, views, or com- of an obviously shallow minded and in- which built on a similar article in High ments on the issue, and you considerate British climber. I would ex- and editorial by Terry Gifford in High could win this great Berghaus pect a rethink and retraction from who- 224. In each case the benefits of Extrem Climb 32 litre sac. ever allowed the letter to be published. climbers and conservationists working This issue, the prize goes to together for the benefit of rare, vul- Ed Grindley for putting forward Ed Grindley, Lochaber nerable or protected species are pre- a detailed and thoughtful re- sented in a form likely to mislead the sponse to Dan Bailey. Next - We received many letters on this is- ill informed. issue...it could be you. Just sue, most in support of M. Ravenel. I fully accept that the majority of email [email protected], or Thanks to everyone who took the time climbers, mountaineers and hill walk- post to BMC, 177-179 Burton to write, and please remember that the ers are responsible people who enjoy Road, Manchester, M20 2BB. letters page is a chance to air your every aspect of the countryside re- views, and is by no means the opinion specting the need for conservation in- of the BMC! stinctively without the need for legis-

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 5

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 5 11/02/2002, 10:36 AM NEWS ACT support - Festival of Climbing - AGM

Art and Photo competition... Many thanks to all who en- tered the ACT Art and Pho- tographic Competition, to celebrate the launch of the new Access and Conserva- tion Trust. The closing date is now past, and we've had Tony Blair and George Band start their a great response. The win- exhibition tour. Credit: Charlie Hedley ning images will be pub- lished in the next issue. Access & Conservation Trust continues to grow As reported in previous is- ACT trustees, received the popular Plas y Brenin ers' Club, Mountain Leader sues the mountaineering cheques from new ACT stand where outdoor ex- Training Board, Tiso, Thelwell councils in the UK and Ire- members. Mr Michael then perts were on hand to an- Consultants, DMM and First land have launched a new made an extensive tour of swer arrange of queries Ascent. The Trust is now be- charitable Trust- the Access the Festival watching the from the 6,000 strong ing expanded to enable in- & Conservation Trust. The action at the come-and-try- weekend audience. Alan dividuals to contribute as Trust has now been officially it walls and on the main Hinkes and Lewis Grundy well, so contact the BMC if registered as a charity and competition wall. represented Berghaus, who you would like to know more received its public launch at Swelling the ACT funds sponsored a lecture thea- about how you can become the Entre-Prises & BMC were Berghaus and the tre at the Festival and Alan part of the ACT, or email Festival of Climbing at the Mountain Training Trust gave two lectures to packed [email protected]. NIA in December. The BMC (managers of Plas y Brenin) houses during the weekend. welcomed the Rt. Hon. Alun who became Platinum and Berghaus and Plas y Brenin (L-R) Dave Turnbull (new Michael MP, Minister of Platinum Plus partners. also contributed prizes to BMC Chief Officer), Rt. State for Rural Affairs as the Chair of MTT Ally Kellas pre- the Winter Skills Workshop Hon. Alun Michael MP, and guest of honour on Sunday sented the cheque on be- competition. Also joining Ally Kellas from MTT(PyB). 9th and, on behalf of the half of MTT. Ally was visiting ACT recently are the Climb- Entre-Prises & BMC Festival of Climbing The Entre-Prises and BMC you’ve got another chance Festival of Climbing took the to see some great competi- NIA in Birmingham by storm tion climbing at the A5 Brit- over the weekend of 7-9th ish Bouldering Champion- December '01. This latest ships. The final round takes event builds on previous place over the weekend of successful events; notably 16/17th March at the Ord- Climb ’97, and Climb’99, nance Survey Outdoor Show and with an impressive ar- at the NEC in Birmingham - ray of competition climbing, Juniors on the 16th and Sen- lectures, shopping, and de- iors on the 17th. Support velopment activities, it has sponsors are High, OTE, become an event not to be Snap, and missed. Entre-Prises. But if you didn’t make it For full details on this down to Birmingham this exciting event, see page year, then don’t worry, 18 of this issue.

ACT - 2002 monthly prize draw! Volunteer Leader Conference The producers of the Art of nated by one of the CD’s The Volunteer Leader Con- discussing the different as- Navigation CD ROM and ACT sponsors. March’s prize is a ference took place along- pects of risk and adventure. have teamed up to bring you Wynnsters Firefly 2 tent, side the Festival of Climb- Conference proceedings are a great new monthly prize RRP £150.00, and previ- ing at the NIA. Chaired by available from the BMC Of- draw. Each month there’s a ous prizes included a Richard Callicott CEO of UK fice ([email protected]). competition running on the Garmin GPS. So get online, Sport and Margaret Talbot Many thanks to all the or- site (www.outdoornav.co.uk) test your navigation skills, CEO of CCPR, this was highly ganisations and volunteer related to navigation skills, and support ACT all at : a successful training event leaders who contributed with a different prize do- www.outdoornav.co.uk with over 230 participants their valuable opinions.

6 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 6 11/02/2002, 10:36 AM Grit license - Alpine lectures - Ruskin artwork

AGM and Annual Gathering 2002 See Ruskin artwork at the Helly Hansen Heading for the Lake District National Mountaineering Exhibition This years Annual Gathering as President and Cathy From April 17th over 40 will take place in the Lake Woodhead and Crag Jones pieces of artwork by the in- District, over the weekend of will complete their terms as fluential British artist John the 5th – 7th April 2002. Vice Presidents. Ruskin will be on display at Come along for entertaining Surrounded by the the Helly Hansen National lecturers and slide shows, Cumbrian fells and with Mountaineering Exhibition. volunteer training workshops Penrith Climbing Wall close The collection will focus on and seminars, the AGM and at hand the weekend will Ruskin’s paintings and draw- National Open Forum (at the be the perfect opportunity ings of Switzerland and the of Ruskin’s work any day Rheged Discovery Centre to combine enjoyable ac- display marks the beginning between 17 April and 12 near Penrith), and finally an tivity with some important of a series of events in Cum- October when you visit the excellent dinner at the Shap issues. For those needing bria to celebrate the United Helly Hansen National Wells Hotel. All AGM accommodation the Shap Nations International Year of Mountaineering Exhibition. attendees will have the op- Wells Hotel (01931 Mountains. Ruskin was an Entry to the Exhibition is portunity to visit the Helly 716628) is offering a spe- influential social philosopher £4.50 for adults (£3.50 for Hansen National Mountain- cial BMC AGM B&B pack- and art critic and a highly BMC members), £3 for chil- eering Exhibition free of age of £30.00 per person talented painter and dren and £3.80 for seniors charge. With issues up for per night (£8.00 single draughtsman. He toured (£3 for BMC members). discussion such as the les- supplement). Please Switzerland in 1833 and sons learnt from Foot and quote “BMC AGM” when had a lifelong passion for Turn to page 29 of this Mouth and the BMC Guide- booking. Please see the the Alps. After a breakdown issue for a great BMC book Programme it will be an special Annual Gathering in 1890 he lived in the Lake members offer. Entry for important weekend, and a flyer in this issue of Sum- District until his death ten only £2.25! time for change - Derek mit or the website for full years later. See this display Walker will complete his term details. Grit license and the Stanage guide After recent discussions, the new Chair of the guidebook BMC has agreed a license to committee and Niall Grimes Rockfax for their new as the new guidebook co- Gritstone guidebook which ordinator the very best of acknowledges the BMC’s in- luck for the future. It is tellectual property rights for hoped that all those with an gritstone rock climbs. This fol- interest in Peak District rock lows lengthy discussions be- climbing will give enthusias- tween all parties involved tic support to the new wherein the BMC sought to structure and contribute to Ray Wood Ray protect the interests of the the publication of quality voluntary system, but were definitive The Alps and Beyond? also striving to represent guides produced by volun- climbers as a whole, as well teers. The programme is al- You need the BMC Alpine Lectures 2002 as having to address certain ready moving efficiently for- commercial realities. The out- ward, with the publication Supported by Jagged Globe come was that it was felt that of the new Stanage guide If you’re thinking of visiting legal action was not justified, now very close. Asides from the Alps during 2002, then compromise and co-opera- Stanage, almost all the don’t miss the BMC Alpine Manchester tion- from both sides- ap- other guides in the area are Lecture Series starting on University of Manchester pearing to be the better op- well in hand with very strong March 5th. Steve Bell and Tue 5 March, 6.45pm tion. The final message in and enthusiastic teams Libby Peter are teaming up Penrith this is that while commercial putting their boundless en- again for an entertaining University of Central Lancs guide production may be re- thusiasm into their areas, and interactive introduction Wed 6 March, 6.45pm ality, the BMC will do their and it seems that among to the alpine environment. Nottingham utmost to support the con- others, the Staffordshire This is a great way to pre- University of Nottingham tinuing tradition of the volun- Gritstone and Sheffield pare for the Alpine season, Thu 7 March, 6.45pm teer based guidebook. Finally, Area Gritstone will not be far spot new adventures and the BMC would like to wish behind Stanage. remember, whether you’re a University College London Richard Wheeldon as the novice or hardened alpinist Tue 12 March, 6.45pm there is always more to Bath Alpine Style Climbing Symposium learn! So why not take this University of Bath Campus, March 2nd is a red letter day! Tackle on Alaska, Andy opportunity to find out more Wed 13 March, 6.45pm The Alpine Club has invited Kirkpatrick on what makes about equipment, tech- Exeter some of the world’s greatest him tick(!), Louise Thomas nique, training, new areas University of Exeter modern alpinists to talk and on Baffin and Simon or ask their opinions on your Thu 14 March, 6.45pm lecture in Sheffield. Lecturers Richardson on Scottish trip. Tickets are available via include Voytek Kurtyka on developments. For more the BMC office in, priced £3 See the online events diary climbing and creativity, details check out to BMC members (inc. stu- at www.thebmc.co.uk for full Yashushi on his solo of , www.alpine-club.org.uk dent club members) and £5 addresses and links to maps Silvo Karo on Patagonia, Jack to non-members. for each lecture.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 7

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 7 11/02/2002, 10:37 AM NEWS TrollInternational recall - Dewhurst Meet - Staff resigns changes - New - Technicalwall?

Technical Support! pons, Ice-axes and Via BMC International Ferrata equipment all slated Look out for an increased for attention in 2002. Re- Climbing Meet, May technical presence in Sum- member that a problem mit pages this year – as part shared is a problem reduced Once again, some of the will be provided by the BMC. of the BMC shake-up, more - if you have experienced an world’s leading climbers will The general theme for the staff time has been freed to equipment failure that you be gathering at Plas y Brenin meet is “breaking barriers” get you the vital safety in- feel warrants an investiga- for a week of climbing ad- within the outdoor commu- formation you need about tion we would like to hear th th venture on the 5 – 12 nity, and so applications mountaineering equipment about it! Either download May. The Meet is now an es- from minority groups are es- and it’s use. As well as a the report form from the tablished event in the out- pecially welcomed. Please technical article in each is- website or contact the BMC door calendar and involves send a climbing CV to Stuart sue, the BMC website will to get the opinion of the UK’s debates, workshops and so- Ingram at the BMC office hold regular updates on cur- leading voluntary experts. cial events as well as climb- ([email protected]) by rent work areas, important ing - a guaranteed great time the 15 March. Don’t miss incidents and technical is- for those wishing to expand this great opportunity to add sues from around the world. Care & Maintenance is their climbing knowledge, some international flavour to There will also be more tech- now available at £4 to discuss opinions and meet your climbing activities! nical booklets with Cram- members. Call 0870 010 new friends! This year, the 4878 or order online. BMC will be inviting around See page 36 of this issue 50 of the sports leading in- BMC Staff Changes for a great taster. ternational exponents to the Following the recent ecutive of Mountain Serv- meet, and is looking for a restructurings, there are ices (Limited). However, similar number of British three major staff changes. Roger’s departure still left a and Ben Bransby. And last, climbers to act as hosts and Firstly, it’s farewell to Roger vacancy for Chief Officer of but by no means least, Niall show the guests what it’s all Payne, who has guided the the BMC, and Dave Turnbull Grimes has been tempted about. The only require- BMC for many years, and is has just been appointed. over from Sheffield for the ments are that you be an now leaving for the delights Dave, an Access & Conser- new post of Guidebook Co- active climber (regardless of of Development and Sports vation Officer at the BMC for ordinator. Niall has a great ability) living in the UK and Director for the UIAA in Swit- over three years, has a history of involvement with have a good knowledge of zerland – we wish him all the strong climbing background. the Peak guidebook scene, climbing in North Wales. If best. On the MSL side of He recently tackled some and is ideally placed to work you are selected as a host, things, Andy Macnae beat a Mozambique rock as part of with the team of dedicated all accommodation and food strong field of candidates to a mixed UK/South African volunteers, and expand the for the week at Plas y Brenin become the new Chief Ex- team featuring Leo Houlding range of quality guidebooks.

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ACCESS NEWS

matter, 10 will; take any litter, includ- Stoney and Horseshoe ing biodegradable litter (which can at- The track leading from the electric sub- tract predators) away with you. If you station to Mortuary Steps at Stoney see other people wandering around Middleton has been blocked by large under the edge, please ask them not boulders. The boulders have been to and explain why. placed by the local Council to prevent illegal tipping and are not an anti-climb- ing measure. At Horseshoe, new signs, Range West Briefings highlighting the dangers of the quarry The following dates have been proposed have been placed. The owners have for the 2002 Range West briefings: an obligation under the Mines and 13th June - Gloucester Quarries Act to place signs to stop peo- 29th June - Castlemartin, Range West ple entering the quarry. 27th July - Castlemartin, Range West Please do not pull down these signs, The Range will open on the 27th July. as they may be replaced by more ef- fective means of stopping entry. The Stone Farm National Park Authority have yet to ar- range the proposed meeting between The BMC secured ownership of Stone Cold, cold Stanage. Credit: Grimes themselves, the owners of Horseshoe, Farm at the end of 2001. Chris Tullis Tarmac, and the BMC to attempt to and John Galloway, have already Snowdonia "Green Key" set-up a management agreement for started ground erosion work at the site. the site. The BMC has reminded the Croydon MC volunteered their time to 4th March Deadline Park Authority of the importance of pro- help with the preparatory work and The Green Key Strategy is a new initia- gressing this issue. made substantial progress with some tive about improving the economic per- of the more labour intensive work. formance of the area and is based The erosion work has been funded around a Park and Ride scheme. The Stanage Updates mainly by grants from the Climbers' problems encountered during Foot and On a bitterly cold and misty January 3, Club Kirkus Fund and from English Na- Mouth when much of the roadside park- 2002 a formidable team assembled at ture and the BMC would like to thank ing was curtailed and visitors had to Stanage, under the auspices of the them for their support. The manage- use a Sherpa bus has not been forgot- Stanage Forum, for the long awaited site ment of the site will be undertaken by ten; and while the residents of Capel visit called to resolve any conflict be- the BMC’s Harrison’s Rocks Manage- Curig are keen to see an improved pub- tween climbing (particularly bouldering) ment Group. lic transport service and opportunities and Ring Ouzels. For those involved in to improve visitor facilities, in line with this issue, sorry if the following para- Lake District Birds visitor needs, they do not want to see graph does not do justice to the 3 hours The following nesting restrictions have the closure of parking spaces within the stood freezing on the Edge, your feel- been confirmed in the Lake District for Snowdon area. ings on the subject, or the large amount the 2002 season. All the restrictions The consultation deadline has been of time and effort that you have put in are variable and will be reviewed in extended to the 4th March, and the for climbers on this issue. Despite be- April, and lifted if birds have not nested. strategy can be found at ing half frozen the team did a good job Check the BMC website and local www.gwynedd.gov.uk/adrannau/ defending the BMC’s position not to shops for information. economaidd/Green_key index.english.htm, endorse a restriction on bouldering be- or www.snowdonia2002.fsnet.co.uk tween Apparent North and the Cowper Comments should be emailed to Stone, which the ornithologists were 1st Mar - 30th June: [email protected] pushing for. At the same time positive Upper Falcon and the Gully between After pressure from the BMC the Na- suggestions were made which would Upper & Lower Falcon Crag, Borrowdale. tional Park are now committed to a us- help to improve the habitat require- Heron Crag, Eskdale. ers focus group being set-up as part of ments of the birds and minimise dis- Raven Crag, Yewdale, Coniston. the consultation process, so that the turbance. The following were accepted Wallowbarrow Gorge, Duddon Valley. views of mountain users are repre- as ways in which climbers could help Upper Thrang Crag, Martindale. sented in the consultation process. to minimise disturbance from mid Chapel Head Scar, Whitbarrow. March to mid August. Please access Gowther Crag, Swindale. the areas of Apparent North and the Peak Line Project Cowper Stone from Burbage North, 1st Mar - 31st May (Ravens): The Buxton Advertiser headlined that Cabin Track and Hooks Carr. Please Swarthbeck Gill, Howtown. the Matlock to Buxton Rail Link, via avoid using the lower path from Hook’s Lower Thrang Crag, Martindale Chee Dale, is coming. In fact Derbyshire Carr which leads broadly across to (not including Farm buttress). County Council have just secured fund- Congo Corner. The following will also Raven Crag, Threshwaite Cove. ing for a feasibility study for the project, minimise your disturbance of nesting Buckbarrow, Londsleddale. which will make clear what is involved birds between mid March and mid Au- and will evaluate the options for build- gust: for access to and from bouldering Avon Gorge Gear Debate ing the line. Only after a second feasi- areas use the edge top, avoiding Come along to the Avon Gorge fixed bility study will it become clear what is breeding and feeding areas below the being proposed, and at this stage the gear debate at 7pm, 24th April at the edge; be aware of the legitimate con- Bristol Climbing Centre. The meeting is Council will have to try and gain funding cerns of ornithologists, to the extent for the project. The County Council is an open meeting for climbers to dis- that if you can leave the area undis- cuss the replacement of fixed gear in well aware of the BMC’s interest and turbed, do; no gardening; flash prob- the potential impact of the project on the Avon Gorge. Should it be replaced lems, but don’t hang around beyond at all? Replaced like for like? Come climbers, hillwalkers and the flora and Magnetic North, if you do unwittingly fauna of Chee Dale. along and have your say and help to disturb a bird a few minutes will not decide the climbing ethics in your area. For the latest access info on more than 600 crags in England and Wales - check out the Regional Access Database (RAD) on www.thebmc.co.uk 10 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 10 11/02/2002, 10:40 AM

STARTERS

Ahh, the warmth and comfort of the flames at If you choose to take a pressurised liquid fuel stove, it is the end of a hard day. Fire has represented essential to maintain it regularly to avoid a failure at some one of the cornerstones of human survival critical time. Make sure that you understand it’s construc- since the Neanderthal tribes coveted and tion and the way it functions before you get to the middle of fought over it. In our modern day air- nowhere, and pack plenty of spares, especially fuel jets conditioned and centrally heated and jet ‘prickers’. environment, we invariably take its presence Another important consideration is the availability of fuel – this may often determine the type of stove you buy (or pack for granted. But when we pursue our activities if you own more than one). Take care to find out which fuels in the outdoors, the absence of a means of will be available in the area you are visiting and make your warming and feeding ourselves becomes all choice accordingly. Let’s not forget price, either – a top notch too apparent. Stu Ingram looks at what you (pressurised) liquid-fuelled stove might set you back £100 need to be a firestarter. or so, but an unpressurised meths or gas stove could be as FIRE he modern manifestation of a fire (lets call it a stove!) is little as £20. Think about how often and under what circum- Tone of the most critical pieces of equipment for climbers stances you are going to use the beast before you buy it! and trekkers. In many situations a properly functioning stove As a general guide, pressurised liquid fuelled stoves are can literally mean the difference between life and death in best for long-term worldwide backpacking, trekking and ex- the mountains. At the very least it will dictate whether you pedition (high-altitude) use. Pressurised gas models are get that steaming bowl of pasta and mug of tea before bed, great for Europe and suited to more occasional use, al- or make do with cold water and snack-food! This article though climbers will often carry these to altitude for use aims to give a round up of what’s currently on the market to when bivvying. Unpressurised liquid fuel stoves are good for help you choose the bundle of warmth that’s best for you. group use and those on a budget.

What’s out there? How to get the best from it At the most basic level, there are two principal types of Firstly, read the instructions! Know how to fuel, light and regu- stove, those that run on pressurised fuel (eg. paraffin, pet- late your stove whilst in use, again before you have to use it rol, gas) and those using unpressurised propellants (eg “in anger” – this will save you a load of trouble when it mat- Meths). Pressurised stoves, which can be further subdi- ters. Be careful to buy suitably sized pans for you stove, and vided into models using liquid fuel and those using gas cre- set it on a stable, level surface (some manufacturers pro- ate more heat and work more efficiently at altitude than duce bases for this purpose) to avoid tipping it over, spilling unpressurised models, and also offer advantages in weight, your gourmet creation and causing dangerous flaring. bulk and running costs. On the other side of things, liquid Always position your stove safely away from objective haz- fuelled stoves require regular maintenance to keep them ards in a well- ventilated area. Camping in fine weather will operating properly, whereas gas and unpressurised stoves allow you to cook al fresco – some would argue that there’s need little or no user care in order to function well. A more nothing finer in the outdoors than stuffing your face whilst recent development are ‘multi-fuel stoves’ capable of run- admiring the beauty of nature. However, in wet conditions, ning on more than one type of fuel – you can even find many campers are forced to cook in their tent vestibule, models that will take both liquid fuels and gas! even though tent manufacturers heavily discourage this.

12 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 12 11/02/2002, 10:40 AM Tents are highly flammable, and the consequences of a burning tent – especially if the incumbents are in their sleep- ing bags at the time of the blaze – could be disastrous. If you have no option but to cook inside the porch entrance, do not allow any part of the shelter to come anywhere near the stove. Be prepared to the entire stove away from the tent if the burner flares and if your tent does not have a rear exit, keep a knife handy so that you can slash the fabric and escape if the tent starts to burn. Complete famili- arity with the stove’s operation will minimise the chance of an uncontrollable blaze during the lighting or cooking proc- ess; through experience in use you will realize what you can and can’t get away with. If the stove’s fuel tank needs refilling during cooking, turn off the burner and double-check that the flames have been properly extinguished before attempting to refill the tank. This is particularly important for stoves that burn transpar- Butane or Propane ent fuels (eg. Meths), often producing a colourless flame. STOVE AND Stove: pressurised bottled gas IMPORTANT: Remember that all combustion of flamma- Availability: Europe, North ble material gives off carbon monoxide. A build-up of car- FUEL America and certain other popu- bon monoxide in a confined area (such as a sealed tent, lar trekking regions snow hole or mountain hut) is virtually undetectable without Pros: clean; hassle-free; propane/ specialist equipment, and can rapidly lead to unconscious- COMPARISON butane mix burns efficiently at all ness and death. For safety’s sake, always ensure that you altitudes and the cold cook in a well-ventilated area. CHART Cons: heavy; several different Paraffin/Kerosene types of connection produced so But it’s freezing cold! Stove: pressurised liquid compatibility with stove not guar- Everything becomes more difficult and time consuming when Availability: Asia, , Himalaya anteed; empty cartridges must be it’s cold, and using a stove is no exception. Apart from the Pros: cheap and easily available, disposed of carefully; butane- inevitable fumbling with valves, matches, fuel pumps etc. even in rural communities; effi- only mix performs poorly in sub- with half-numb pinkies, there are some additional safety cient up to 6500m zero temperatures issues. Firstly, it’s vital to prevent your fuel supply from Cons: stove requires priming; fuel solidifying. Gas canisters can be popped in a sleeping bag line clogs quickly if not cleaned; Alcohol/Methylated Spirits/ half an hour before being connected to the stove, whilst a messy; fuel easily taints food Ethanol/Alcool á brûler pressurised liquid fuel burner may need extra encourage- Stove: unpressurised liquid ment if regular priming is ineffective - applying a small amount Petrol/Unleaded petrol/Benzine Availability: Europe, Scandinavia, of ‘burning paste’ around the base of the stove can do this. Stove: pressurised liquid Light this paste, and allow the gentle flames produced to Availability: almost everywhere Pros: evaporates quickly if spilt heat the stove. When they have self-extinguished, open that has access to motorised Cons: expensive; burns quickly; the fuel valve and ignite the burner. transport low heat output; performs poorly A light dusting of snow can be brushed away before set- Pros: widely available; cheaper above 3000m; some fuels are ting the stove down on frozen ground. However, if you are than white gas; efficient up to transparent so difficult to see cooking on deep snow or ice, it is important that a piece of 6500m flame – take extra care when re- insulating material (eg. sleeping mat foam, cardboard) is Cons: stove requires priming; fuel filling to ensure flames have been placed between the stove and the cold stuff. If this precau- line clogs quickly if not cleaned completely extinguished tion is not taken, your burner is likely to melt itself into the ice with attendant consequences! If you need to improvise, White Gas/Coleman Fuel/ Solid fuel (e.g. Hexamine) Benzina Blanca Stove: unpressurised, and uncon- Stove: pressurised liquid trollable Availability: North America, UK, Availability: Europe, North benzina blanca becoming in- America (especially military units) creasingly available in South Pros: easy to light in any weather; America can be used to ‘prime’ other Pros: clean, so doesn’t clog fuel stoves lines as quickly as paraffin or pet- Cons: very low heat output; un- rol; efficient up to 6500m controllable flame; fumes are poi- Cons: stove requires priming; fuel sonous so only use in extremely more expensive than petrol well-ventilated areas Get THE Book! The useful guide to fuel (above) is taken from the new Mountain Traveller's Handbook. This pocket sized book spills the beans on every aspect of the perfect trip. Can you afford to leave it behind? Priced just £13 (£11.50 to members), phone 0870 010 4878 to order now, visit www.thebmc.co.uk, or look (LEFT) Life by the fire. Credit: Alex Messenger. out for it in all good shops. (ABOVE) Cold cooking 20ft underground in the north wall of Trugberg, Bernese Oberland. Credit: Tom Povey. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 1 3

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 13 11/02/2002, 10:41 AM EQUIPMENT

then a spare pan lid can suffice. If using snow or ice as your Are there any accessories? water source, then remember that ice produces a greater There are a few gizmos you can use to improve the efficiency return and is faster, as it does not contain any air. If you of your stove (at any altitude), and some accessories that only have snow available, it is worth taking the time to pro- will make life in the outdoor kitchen more enjoyable: duce a pyramid of hard-packed snowballs before starting to Maintenance Kit: Essential for those stoves requiring field cook – as well as providing ammunition if the chef isn’t up maintenance, and not always included when you buy the to scratch, snowballs melted one at a time are more effi- stove. cient than a simple filling the pan. Windshield: Some stoves have integral windshields or come supplied with a bendy aluminium foil strip to wrap around What about altitude? the stove – if not it’s worthwhile getting one to keep the Never mind the cold, when high altitude (significantly less oxy- draughts out and increase efficiency. gen and air pressure) and stoves mix, things really start to get Heat Exchanger: a system of coils that transfers heat from fruity! Unfortunately under these more extreme conditions, the burner back around the gas canister or cooking pot. your stove is literally your life – no pubs to fall back on up These can increase efficiency by over 50% if a good fit is here! This is when it’s more important than ever to know your achieved – commercially produced models exist, or make stove and its capabilities. Pressurised liquid models will work your own from copper wire/or ensolite foil (see Climbing reasonably up to around 6500m but make sure you get the No.145 for dubious details!) right kind of jet – certain types are almost useless at altitude! Hanging kit: This will allow you to hang your stove from a Above that propane/butane mix gas stoves are the only real tent/portaledge tab or directly from the rock/ice, saving space choice, and the simplest to operate (big advantage). on those cramped bivis. Will only fit specific models The stove is likely to be in constant use due to slow boil Auto-starter: Many gas models can now be fitted with a piezo- times, so it must be in top working order beforehand (it’s electric igniter to prevent “the lighter’s run out!” scenarios. hard enough to cook with headaches, nausea, and tired- Cooking kits: Many variations now exist containing spatu- ness without the stove packing in). At altitude you need to las, chopping boards, shakers, little pots for sauces etc. drink more water to stay properly hydrated, 4-6 litres per allowing you to prepare the feast of your choice in the re- day minimum but when you consider it can take an hour to mote backcountry. Pass the salt… make a panful of water from snow and another hour to boil Espresso maker: Not a stove gadget, but definitely essential! it, the difficulty is apparent. Add to this altitude-induced loss of appetite – to keep psyched you will need to make Many thanks to Go Gas for help with this article. your meals as varied as possible by adding spices, pickles, For more information on the Go Gas range of milk powder etc. to the necessarily simple dishes (pasta, products, or advice about choosing the right outdoor rice, noodles) that are easiest to cook. stove for you, contact them on 0161 477 3330. So, the question here is not “will my stove work?” – it The Go Gas range is available through Ellis should provided you look after it – more “will I be in a fit Brigham, Oswald Bailey, Blacks Leisure stores and state to make it work?!” Cotswold. PS - don't miss the reader's offer below!

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Summit Stove 25 to be won Weighing in at only 332g, this safety checked and tested product is ideal where space and weight saving are vital. As an all-weather stove that gives constant high performance, the Summit Stove has been designed to provide maximum safety alongside superior cooking ability. RRP. £15.00 Zenith Stove This one is almost exactly the same as the Summit Stove, although has the added benefit of a removable windshield for optimum wind protection of both the flame and cooking pan. What more could you ask for on a cold, windy mountain! RRP. £18.00 Questions: How much does the Summit Stove weigh? What is the approximate retail price of the Zenith Stove? 20 to be won What is the name of the range from which these products come? For more information contact Go Gas on 0161 477 3330

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All winners will be selected at random and notified in writing. Closing date for entries is 8th April 2002 All prizes offered are non-exchangeable for cash or any other alternative. 14 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 14 13/02/2002, 12:17 PM

“When you get in right, there’s two ways of doin’ it …..”

With 10 minutes to go on a Friday afternoon, I could think of better things to be doing than teaching a bunch of teenage delinquents GCSE Maths.

“Then when you get it going, make sure you ‘ave yer foot on the clutch.”

“But what about the handbrake?”

“Take that off an’ all, ye stupid!”

So we bided our time till the bell rang and headed out to the car park – I to my own car, they in search of someone else’s. For me however, the journey wouldn’t be ending in a few hours time with a box of matches...

(LEFT) Al Powell on Tupilak. Credit: Jon Bracey. (BELOW) Jon Bracey enjoying some tropical conditions. Credit: Al Powell. TUPILAK SILENCE OF THE SERACS Escaping the demands of teaching for blissfully quiet minus 40OC bivis. Al Powell describes the highlights on just one of last year's BMC/MEF funded expeditions. upply teaching may not be glamorous, but it is flex- ible and that’s what matters to expedition climbers. SAs usual the biggest problem had been finance, and since the last trip, what remained of my rack had neither grown nor been replaced. Being a bunch of mates rather than shiny media climbers, attracting support had been tricky. Several hours on the phone convinced a few generous manufacturers as to the obvious commercial benefits they would accrue by handing over kit for free – but the Wilkos repair department had to be called in to deal with the rest. First a pair of old rock bit the dust in search of replacement rubber, as the Mk IV superboot emerged gleam- ing under layers of gaffa tape and superglue. Next, an ex- tended operation with a mole-wrench, bits of chain and more gaffa tape brought the successful mating of a petrol stove with a hanging cook set. Then finally, in a creative genius to rival the Whillan’s sit harness, a weekend spent sewing up bits of old tent and rucksacks produced two hang- ing bivi seats and a set of Russian aiding gear. Weeks of untold misery were now assured. Two days later, we found ourselves stepping out of a chop- per onto a small knoll in the middle of nowhere, and the boys were somewhat surprised...“Bloody Hell! – you didn’t

16 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 16 14/02/2002, 10:21 AM " Maybe the spirits of the dead were reminding us of tell us about this Al!”...“Erm, well it’s Greenland in winter- what did you expect?” ...“I know - but it’s absolutely Baltic!” something. The curse of Trying to finish our first hot meal before it froze to the plate, the month ahead provided a somewhat cold and uncertain the Tupilak: those hideous prospect. No one had tried winter climbing here before and at -35'c in Base Camp the reasons were obvious. Bivis on mythical creatures so the North Face of Tupilak could be tickling the –40'c mark. Such thoughts came home to roost sooner than we imag- feared by the Inuit. " ined. After five days in fact - in the form of super chilled spindrift pummelling down on our sitting bivi tent. Wrestling ominous thud of front points on rock. The supporting layer with a flaring petrol stove swinging inches from ones wedding began to thin out and slide off alarmingly, revealing the top tackle left little time to appreciate the sweet sensation of of a flake resting on the slab. Slotting a wobbly in pro- singed eyebrows and numb toes. Soon the inevitable mar- vided diversionary relief, before probing and shuffling re- riage of overtrousers with stove occurred amid a puff of blue sumed – following a hunch toward a shadowy line under the smoke, as I struggled to pass a mug of soup to Jon. Outside, snow. Beneath, it appeared that a tiny foot ledge might giant veils of light flickered across the heavens. Maybe the span the final meters to a crack. Summoning sufficient spirits of the dead were reminding us of something. The nerve to mantel onto the ledge proved nearly as difficult as curse of the Tupilak: those hideous mythical creatures so locating it, but finally faith and side-stepping prevailed as feared by the Inuit. Next day we took the hint and retreated. the crack was reached and a lower off arranged. Back on the , it began to dawn on us that actually When the rope ran out, rigging any kind of belay proved studying the face might have been a good idea - rather than even more enthralling as we finally settled for a tied off blithely hacking straight up for two days to a dead end. knife blade. Pulling ropes through the lower off, the phrase Much squinting through binoculars revealed a line of uncer- ‘Fully Committed’ came to mind. I tried to ignore it. The tainties further left, so Mr Bracey duly fished out his next couple of hundred metres also proved something of a sketchpad: our combined efforts resulting in a topo lying Sahara Desert on the protection front, as possibilities rap- somewhere between artistic, optimistic and autistic. We idly dried up. Moving together up snow ribbons on the blunt felt that added to a bit of trail laying and kit stashing the day rib, ever more creative placements were tried till finally a before, this might just tip the balance. lone skyhook lay between us and eternity. Probing out the Subtle differences separated this new line from our origi- shallow grooves that lay beneath whilst desperately seek- nal one: thankfully it looked less steep, and the powder ing to avoid excursions onto slabs felt like some giant invis- appeared to be stationary rather than constantly streaming ible maze game, which thankfully we negotiated with all our down the route. On the other hand there remained the lives intact – ready for the exit cracks. question of how long this snow would remain stationary when Quite how these cracks managed to be overhanging, con- we attempted to climb it, lying as it did mostly on slabs. stricted, off width and slabby all at the same time I don’t There was also the small matter of the serac, but we pre- know – but Jon seemed to be discovering this in no uncer- ferred not to think about that. tain terms amid a trail of tied off slings, wedged sacs, skit- Gaining time from our various stashing and stomping activi- tering front points and plenty of cursing. Down below the ties, these mysteries rapidly resolved themselves on the first tiny dots reappeared, moving across the glacier to check day after a lung bursting dash past the serac lead to excellent out our progress. Seconding proved less traumatic with a mixed ground. The first traverse went pretty well too, apart trail of nuts to hook, but still required a couple of hanging from one ‘look mum no hands’ section cramponing across a lock offs to do justice to all those pull ups on the stairs back slab. And so it continued – cheeky mixed pitches linking scarier home. With that the final pitch came as a breeze, stomping traverses, till the arctic shadows lengthened and a suitable up easy ice to the col. Whooping and hollering echoed up bivi site emerged. Jon checked out the feasibility of the steep from the glacier – we returned the salute with glee. ground above, declaring a good crack before descending to To our left the East summit looked feasible but not till the join the excavation project. In true Bracey style, this didn’t morning, so we settled down to bivi in the jaws of Tupilak. It appear to require the use of gloves like any normal human seemed our presence had been noted. Jon got up to Pee at being. Instead it appeared he had pure antifreeze running 4.00, as snow flurries ripped across the col. We debated through his veins. Not that I’m envious or anything! whether to descend, deciding to look out at 5.30. Pre- dawn Across the valley on Rodebjerg, two tiny dots appeared at light creeping over the horizon rapidly changed this to ‘Lets the top of the glacier. A minute later they whooped down, get the hell out of here, NOW!’ as dozens of lenticular clouds carving dozens of turns back to Base Camp. Jonny and crowded the inland sky. Greenland Piteraq storms can reach Stan were finishing their own route in a blaze of powder. a devastating 200mph, so we had an overwhelming desire Taking in the view with a hot brew, snapping photos, laying to be back in our storm bunker as soon as possible. out for the night – this all felt a far cry from our previous Ten abs down the back reached familiar ground – the great foray. To compound the pleasure temperatures had rock- amphitheatre cirque below the South Face. A further six eted to a tropical –25C, as we snuggled up in the coffin raps, one big bumslide and an endless slog had us nearly warm and safe from spindrift. out of there as storm clouds wreathed the summits. Just 4.00 am alarms are never pleasant, but we needed to get one more link to secure our escape. Breasting an empty moving to make the most of any dawn light on the face. A col to be hit by the gale, still uncertain. A few more steps, mishmash of aiding, hooking and hauling had us estab- then - yes! - two pairs of skis delivered as planned. Kicking lished on the crucial link. Jon followed, then cranked and in and pushing off, we headed to the valley for ten days of torqued on up a superb groove, teetering round a huge joyriding in virgin powder. coffin lid high on the pitch. Having failed to trundle it on the way past, I gave up procrastinating and focused on the real The Greenland Winter Expedition would like to thank the job in hand – traversing the Slab of No Return. following: The BMC, Foundation, Sport An Inspector Gadget style reach proved necessary to es- England, Nick Estcourt Award, Gino Watkins Award, , cape the chimney and gain the main sweep of the slab. North Cape, Troll, Garmin, Terra Nova Equipment & Though for the most part straightforward, such pitches were Wholebake. always accompanied by the trepidation of discovering at what point the powder would finally cease to be load bear- The next closing date for MEF/BMC ing. A preliminary estimate of 30+ metres rang out with the grant applications is the 31st August. See www.thebmc.co.uk/ world/exped/grant.htm BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 1 7

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 17 13/02/2002, 10:32 AM REPORT

The Entre-Prises & BMC Festival of Climbing

The Entre-Prises and BMC Festival of Climbing was held at the NIA, Birmingham on the 7-9th December 2001. We were there, were you? The biggest event of 2001! on all the time in a friendly and re- Well, it was 18 months worth of work, laxed atmosphere. Highlights for many from the early planning meetings of the audience were the fantastic per- (“should we have a bouldering or a formances from the Brits, two finalists leading competition?”) to the frantic for the women and four for the men – two weeks beforehand (“the Berghaus Malcolm Smith missed out on a po- Theatre is going to cost us more than dium place by the slimmest of mar- we thought!”), right the way through to gins, finishing a brilliant fourth in his the three-day event and the post event first World Cup. thank you letters. So was it worth it? The and Beal European Cup Was it a success? Well you tell us, but also saw some amazing performances the 7,200 total visitors, the 2,500 from tomorrow’s superstars and once people cheering on the competitors in again the British Team performed mag- the World Bouldering Cup, the frenzied nificently – with a total of eight final- but happy shoppers, the 250 interna- ists in the six different categories. And tional competitors, and the 1,000 we got someone on the podium, Rob people on the Come and Try It Walls Elliot from Wakefield took third place all seemed to enjoy themselves. in the Male Junior Category, his best ever result that took him to 7th place The Competitions overall in the European rankings. The competitions were one of the main The culmination of the Festival was attractions at the Festival and they the Snow + Rock International Mas- didn’t let us down. The Snow + Rock ters, an invite only leading event. Thir- World Bouldering Cup proved to be the teen of the world’s best were there, highlight for many, with so much going including the only woman, Natalya Perlova from the Ukraine who bravely took on the men on the same routes. Current World Cup Champions Alex Chabot walked off with the title after a flawless performance on the two routes. (CLOCKWISE) EYC on the main wall. Credit Arran. Katherine Schirrmacher, A 70 minute video of the main competitors doing well in the qualifiers, Rob Elliot, is available direct from the BMC. 3rd in the EYC male juniors, and the Check website for details. EYC trophies. Credits: Parnell.

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31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 18 11/02/2002, 10:50 AM REPORT

All sorts of other competitions took The Come and Try it Walls place over the weekend. The Saturday The Come and Try it Walls are always saw the first running of the Entre-Prises popular, and this year proved no ex- Scout Regional Climbing Series Final, ception. This time there were three some impressive climbing from the com- walls, plus the boulder to have a go petitors who had qualified from regional on. Under the watchful eye of experi- heats. However the opportunity for the enced instructors, everybody had a audience to climb on the World Cup chance to try their hand, although on Boulders was one of the best aspects Sunday, quite a few people defected of the Festival. Hordes of juniors and onto the main boulders to sample some seniors competed on the Sunday, tack- of the World Cup problems. ling a variety of problems including some of the final problems from the World Cup Art & Photographic Exhibition - someone likened it to being allowed This year saw an expanded Art and to play on the pitch at Wembley after Photographic exhibition, with a great the FA Cup Final! variety of styles on show. Shelly The Outdoor Designs International Hocknell occupied the bar with her vi- Dyno competition proved to be a big brant colours, whilst Dave Simmonite, draw, and it was a hard decision to de- Ginger Cain, Gordon Stainforth and cide whether to watch the Masters with Alastair Lee staked out the balcony. its cool calculated climbing or the mad- ness of people flying through the area Volunteer Leaders Conference trying to latch onto a hold in excess of Adventure and Risk - a sporting bal- 2.35 metres from the starting holds. ance. That was the theme of the inno- vative Volunteer Leaders Conference, The Lectures held on Friday in the Olympian Suite. With two lecture theatres this time, Over 300 delegates attended for a there was a stunning line up of lectur- stimulating day on safety, training, and ers, and one of the unique features liability for programme and facility was the Mount Everest Foundation managers and volunteer leaders. With Seven Continents slot. Here, on a Sat- a mixture of presentations, seminars, (CLOCKWISE) Sandrine Levet, winner urday afternoon in Birmingham, just and practical workshops a great deal of the S+R Bouldering World Cup. metres away from the best indoor of valuable ground was covered. More Credit Parnell. Steve Mclure compet- climbers in the world, the audience information and proceedings are avail- ing in the S+R Masters. Credit Arran. were taken on an adventurous tour of able from [email protected] The strong Malcolm Smith, he came 4th the globe. It was an impressive line- overall. Credit: Parnell. up, including Ian Parnell on Mount Thanks and next time McKinley, to Crag Jones on the Antarc- As ever the BMC is extremely grateful lectures, seminars, and of course a big tic Peninsula, and on to all of those people who generously competition. And all this in the year th Kanchenjnga. donated their time to help make the when we will be celebrating the 50 But it didn’t stop there, John Dunne, Festival the best one ever, especially anniversary of Everest – no prizes for Jamie Andrews, Al Powell, and Al Hinkes Undercover Rock for providing the guessing what the theme will be! But if were just some of the names enter- belayer training. So for anyone out you can’t wait until 2003 get yourself taining the public throughout the week- there who was a belayer, a marshal, a along to the NEC in Birmingham on end. New for 2001 were a series of judge, a video operator, a wall builder, 15th-17th March for the Ordnance workshops on subjects such as Moun- a lecturer, a speaker, a harness putter- Survey Outdoors Show, here you can tain Travel and Expedition Medicine, on, an isolation escort, or any one of watch the final of the A5 Series British and these went down a treat. And fi- the numerous other jobs that were per- Bouldering Championships, catch nally, for those who just couldn’t get formed exceptionally well… a huge and some great lectures, and of course, do enough, the Best of Kendal Films were heartfelt thank you. some shopping! shown for early risers and late finish- We are already planning the next big Turn over to find out more about the ers over the whole event. event, Climb’03 with all of the usual Outdoors Show...>>

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31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 19 13/02/2002, 10:33 AM EVENTS The Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show NEC, Birmingham March 15 – 17th 2002 ...the biggest names in the outdoors, indoors!

The biggest names in the put back into working order. David said, added, “Promoting use of the country- outdoors will be at The Ordnance “The growth of worldwide tourism has side for health and recreation provides Survey Outdoors Show at the NEC meant increased pressure on the ecol- a very positive and timely boost, not in March with one message – ogy of the planet. I’ll be at the show to only to the outdoor industry, but to ru- “Get out there!” With over one spread the good news that more and ral communities so badly affected by hundred exhibitors under one more groups are looking to safeguard foot and mouth disease.” tourist hotspots so that we can all en- roof the show will be the ideal joy them for a long time to come.” place to plan a whole year of Rural Pavillions in association activities. with Country Walking Stonebee environmental testing If you’re looking to explore a new area chamber in association with Speakers of the UK and Ireland, “Rural Pavilions” Trail in association with ‘Country Walking’ Ray Mears, Sir , Alan Hailed as “the greatest of all Arctic trav- Magazine is the one-stop source of in- Hinkes and David Bellamy will all be at ellers” by Sir Ranulph Fiennes, polar spiration. The Cumbria Tourist Board the show to inspire the public to get explorers Richard Weber and Mikhail will be there along with organisations out into the countryside. Malakhov will also be at the show. In such as The Irish Tourist Board and the Ray Mears, from television’s “World 1995 they became the only people to East of England Tourist Board. of Survival” and “Tracks” will be speak- have ever achieved the ‘Polar Grail’, ing at the Craghoppers Adventure Travel walking from Canada to the North Pole Theatre on Saturday lunchtime. His talk Relaxation and back, totally unsupported. In “Bushcraft, a Step beyond Survival” will When you need to relax, visit the YHA Stonebee’s Kit Testing Zone in asso- be de-bunking the myth that bushcraft Common Room sponsored by Soreen ciation with ‘Trail’ Magazine, visitors can is all about survival. With a few basic or why not visit Regatta’s Classic Land- experience Arctic temperatures as they skills, Ray believes we can live in har- scapes with soothing music and im- step into the Stonebee Environment mony with nature and wilderness agery from a year in the British coun- Simulation Chamber which will plunge bushcraft can become a way of life. tryside? them down to a chilling - 30°C! Visitors can meet world-renowned mountaineers, and Sir Information Chris Bonington. Sir Chris will be Ordnance Survey The Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show th th speaking at the Berghaus Mountain Furthermore, it won’t be just person- takes place from the 15 – 17 March Theatre. He commented, “Foot and alities who encourage us to get into 2002 at the NEC, Birmingham. Friday th th mouth had a terrible effect on the tour- the outdoors. The Ordnance Survey is 15 and Saturday 16 March from th ist trade in rural communities. This organising events for the young and 10am until 6pm, Sunday 17 March show will be a real boost to the out- young at heart with a kid’s treasure from 10am until 5pm. Adults: £8 in doors and encourage people to get hunt and interactive quizes and games advance (£10 on door); Children/ stu- back out there.” The Berghaus Moun- such as “Design Your Own Map”. dents/ OAP/ disabled: £4 in advance tain Theatre will also feature the best (£5 on door); Association/ Club mem- of the Kendal Mountain Film Festival. Climb 2002 bers (BOF, CTC, Ramblers, BMC & YHA Alan will be discussing his future plans Climb 2002 in association with Juice – Members only): £8; Group discounts for Challenge 8000 – his attempt to friendly electricity from npower with available. The Ordnance Survey Out- climb all the world’s 8000 metre plus Greenpeace - will be giving budding rock doors Show takes place in association peaks. Visitors to the Berghaus stand climbers the chance to have a go at with Go Outdoors, the Outdoors Indus- will see exactly what kit Alan will be climbing with expert tuition as well as tries Association. using on his expedition. watching the very best of British Ticket hotline: 08701 214141 David Bellamy, President of the Youth boulderers in the A5 British Bouldering Hostel Association and Wildlife Trusts, Championships. Reader's Ticket Offer! will be speaking about “The Green Ren- aissance”, a worldwide movement to Ramblers Association The Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show show how the great outdoors is being The Ramblers’ Association “Walking for - the first ever show for outdoor enthu- Health” workshop will be aimed siasts - takes place from 15th to 17th at those new to walking and will March 2002 at the NEC in Birming- be encouraging everyone to get ham. The first 200 Summit readers to on their feet this spring – call the ticket hotline on 08701 whether it’s a walk in the park 214141 and quote ‘Summit’ will win or a day in the hills. Nick Barrett, a free pair of tickets to the show. Oth- Chief Executive of the Ram- ers ringing thereafter can purchase 2 blers’ Association said, “We’re tickets for the price of 1 – that’s only delighted to be taking part in £8! The offer is open on all pre-booked this exciting and innovative tickets paid for by credit or debit card event and in particular to be up to 12 noon on the day prior to vis- able to highlight the health ben- iting the show. Offer subject to capac- efits of walking with our Walking ity restrictions. for Health workshops.” He If you missed out on the Festival of Climbing (LEFT), don't miss this! 20 Credit: Parnell BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

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PERFORMANCE BODY FUEL How to keep your energy up for long routes or hard days on the hill. By Jo Farrington.

It’s a basic fact of life that we need food and drink to survive. But that’s not all, taking a moment to think about your nutrition can make a big difference to your performance and experience on the hill or crag. And the closer to your personal limit you are, for example the longer and the harder the route, the more it will matter.

hat you choose to eat and drink But do remember that this doesn’t mean Wcan help you maintain the pace no fat, or that you have to avoid higher for longer, stay alert and reduce the fat foods completely. risk of mistakes. It can increase your enjoyment of the day, and will assist 3. Try to have at least 20g of carbo- Ian Hey and your body’s ability to recover – leaving hydrate in every hour, in theory 60g is fuelling up in Narssaquark, you able to do it all again tomorrow. what you are aiming for. Greenland. But when you have to carry every- Credit: Niall Grimes thing with you it‘s not always possible 4. Make sure it is easily accessible. If to obtain the perfect balanced diet, anticipating low temperatures, take and your main priority should be to in- something edible when very cold. You take as much energy and fluid as you can use body heat from the previous can. You can’t afford to let thirst and pitch to warm it if necessary (e.g. put it 11. There can be a strong urge to hunger be your guide. Altitude and ex- in inside pocket of your fleece). Make a binge after a period of food deprivation ercise both squash your appetite; you pocket if there isn’t one, ideally high up - resist it. To make up the deficit, eat may not feel hungry even though you near the top of the zip for easy access. small amounts more often, it could save could easily be using twice the energy you a lot of gut ache. as in daily life. And by the time you 5. Take food you really like, its no feel thirsty you are already dehydrated, good having something nutritionally 12. Getting into a routine of eating especially at altitude when you’ll need good if you can’t face eating it - this and drinking during training will stand more fluid just standing still let alone defeats the whole object. you in good stead for the big routes and once you have started to move. trips. You will be doing it as part of climb- It might feel impossible to eat and Take a variety so that you don’t 6. ing, as much a part as gearing up and drink enough to meet the demands of get tired of the same foods. You can organising the belay instead of it being long routes and mountain days, but get fed up of even your favourite food a special effort you have to make. there are a few tips, based on nutri- if it is all you are eating. tional science and lessons learnt by 13. Another bonus of taking in en- experienced mountaineers and climb- Fat adds palatability to food, a 7. ergy and food during the route is to ers, which will help you to fuel your body. big bonus, as altitude and exercise both reduce the risk of indigestion later in have an anorexic effect. But food with the day when you do eat. Fear and Plan food and drink into the day. It a higher fat content is more likely to 1. anxiety increase acid production in the isn’t always practical to make these a cause stomach discomfort and cramps stomach and food helps protect the specific time but, for example, you could than high carbohydrate types. So don’t stomach lining. Chewy indigestion tab- decide which belays/stages to use - and wait for the big route to find out what lets can easily be taken without a drink stick to it. It is a fact that if you leave it you can tolerate, try it during training. at the same time. up to your appetite and desire for food/ fluid you will end up having less, per- Its better to snack as often as you 8. 14. Above all learn from your own haps a lot less on a demanding route can than to binge occasionally. Have a experience and judgement about what which is where you need it even more. nibble at every belay or photo stop if works. Negotiate this with your partner during possible. the preparation, you may have very dif- Jo Farrington is a Sports Dietitian ac- ferent ideas about the timing of food and Try out unfamiliar foods before you 9. credited by the National Sports Medi- drink and different needs too. It will avoid go. If it’s your partner who organises cine Institute and the British Dietetic unnecessary tension on the route if you the provisions check it out all the Association. In addition to relevant have discussed it beforehand. same. You could have different tastes. degree and postgraduate studies, she has been a State Registered Dietitian A key principle of sports nutrition is Try cooking the meals you are 2. 10. for 15 years, has the Diploma in Ad- that 60-70% of the energy you have planning at home. Extra spices and vanced Dietetic Practice and is a spe- should come from carbohydrate. And as herbs can work miracles. If you can’t cialist in diet and cardiovascular health. a general rule of thumb, if you are doing stand the idea of eating it on an ordi- She works with climbers, the BMC and two or more hours of exercise a day, you nary day, how’s it going to feel when the High Performance Group. She has should have between 8-10grams of car- you’re tired and maybe even feeling a worked with individuals at elite level, bohydrate for every kilo you weigh. In bit sick? And if you don’t like the re- run workshops and seminars, and car- general most climbers and other athletes sult it’s much better to find out before ried out research in nutrition and moun- underestimate the amount they need. you go. taineering.

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SKILLS OF LEADERSHIP Rob Collister looks at leadership in the mountains. This is based on a presentation to trainee guides, but is relevant to all leaders in the outdoors

s guides we are paid to lead. But that means far more Leaders and teams Athan being first on the rope or breaking trail in deep Another useful model, snow. In many guiding situations today, be it an 8000 one of the earliest to metre peak, a high altitude trek, or an ML training course, emerge from manage- group management is as important as technical skill. The ment training, is John ability to create a team out of a group of disparate individu- Adair’s Three Circles als and to be aware of their differing needs and changing (right). He suggested feelings is a crucial part of our job. Upon it depends not that the role of a leader only the enjoyment of our clients and their repeat business, is to balance the inter- but often their (and our) safety as well. locking needs of the task in hand, the team and Technical skills and people skills the individuals within it. As guides we need to be respected, and liked. Respected Too often, he felt, the for our technical skills - our climbing and skiing competence, need to accomplish the our physical fitness, and our experience and knowledge re- task becomes the over- flected in an air of confidence. Liked for our people skills - riding concern until the our interest in people as individuals, our attempt to achieve team feels put upon and Carl Rogers’ “unconditional positive regard”, our readiness fragments into a group of de-motivated individuals, making to notice tone of voice and body language, and to act tact- the task that much harder to achieve. Synergy, which makes fully and discreetly on what we notice. a group so much more powerful than the sum of its parts, is The traditional view was that “leaders are born, not made”; lost, or never achieved. a forceful personality allied to technical skills was sufficient. Doug Scott has often commented on this in relation to Nowadays, it is widely accepted that leaders of that type expeditions. When personalCredit: John ambition Arran or obsession with a are definitely limited in their effectiveness and can be total goal prevents the formation of a strong, mutually-support- disasters. Scott and Shackleton provide a fascinating con- ive team, the chances of success are diminished and the Accept thetrast responsibility. in leadership If you style want and to effectiveness, despite coming likelihood of an accident increased. Events on Everest over dangle aroundfrom similarfine, but naval don't backgrounds blame and leading similar bodies the last few years have borne him out. Scott’s expeditions others if it ofall men. goes wrong!Both were “strong” personalities, both were re- are usually leaderless, by choice, and the harmony he seeks spected, but only Shackleton was liked by his men. does not always materialize, despite his efforts. However, although it is important for forceful personali- As guides we are in a better position to create a team, ties, the “natural” leaders, to develop their people skills, it deliberately influencing what happens. Needless to say, it is also possible, indeed common, for less forceful person- is critical that we never allow our own desires or ambitions alities to become effective leaders in situations where their to cloud our judgement of what individual clients are capa- experience and technical skills give them added confidence. ble of or to impede the building of a strong team. Guiding is an obvious example. Creating a team Leadership styles Our technical skills should enable us to select and achieve It is useful to recognize that we all have a preferred style of an appropriate objective, other factors permitting. Our peo- leadership somewhere on a continuum running from Au- ple skills should enable us to respect and respond to the thoritarian at one end to Democratic at the other. Over- needs of individuals and to be alert to changes of behaviour bearing behaviour, a desire to always be in front and a that could be significant (in bad weather, or at altitude, espe- reluctance to listen to others are symptomatic of one ex- cially). But how do we go about consciously creating a team? treme, while a reluctance to make decisions or impose one- Some groups do seem to gel better than others; but how we self on a group are typical of the other. Both are likely to behave, right from the start, is the key factor. The sign of a stem from a lack of confidence and neither make for effec- healthy team is a lack of overt leadership much of the time; tive leadership. Most of us will operate somewhere in the jobs appear to just get done without pressure. However, middle much of the time, but it is vital to be flexible - a that stage is not reached immediately and it is helpful to blizzard is not the time for discussion any more than a plan- recognize that there are definite stagesRESULTS that a group can go ning meeting over a beer is the occasion for insisting on through. These have been described as: pre-determined ideas. FORMING, STORMING, NORMING, PER- This view of leadership was elaborated on by Tannenbaum FORMING. Not every group will go through and Schmidt in a well-known model illustrating styles of every stage, but it can help to know that decision-making. Leaders may choose to: TELL, SELL, a certain amount of initial conflict can CONSULT, SHARE or DELEGATE in their dealings with those lead to a stronger, more aware team they lead. In a mountain context it is important for a guide in the end. to be able to vary his or her style along this continuum, not only to suit the situation, but also to suit the needs of indi- Motivation viduals. Some will feel under-valued if they are not allowed Another well-known model that to have an input; others will feel that they are on holiday is relevant to our work is from decision-making or that they have no spare energy at Maslow’s Hierarchy of that particular moment. Some will relish a role or responsi- Needs (right), which he ex- bility; others will shy away from the idea. People need to be presses as a pyramid. At treated and communicated with as individuals as well as its base are those basic members of a group: obvious, but often overlooked, par- physiological needs ticularly with quiet people. which must be met if

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we are to survive. At its apex are those rare moments he the messages we are sending by our posture and tone of calls “peak experiences” when individuals transcend their voice as well as care with the choice and phrasing of the egos to connect with something much bigger. In between words we use. Also central is distinguishing between criti- are the needs for security and shelter, the need for love, cism of behaviour and criticism of the person. Behaviour companionship and community, the need for self-esteem can be altered, personality cannot. Behaviour may be un- and recognition, and the need to fulfil one’s potential or acceptable and we must say so, but we reject or judge the become “self-actualising”. person at our peril. Each particular level can only be attended to when the needs of the one below have been satisfied, and we quickly Fear regress to a lower level when circumstances change. At its How we handle fear, sometimes our own but more often simplest, personal achievement becomes meaningless if that of others, is another aspect of leadership in moun- we are starving; and it will be hard to build a team if indi- tains. Our own behaviour and demeanour are all-impor- viduals feel threatened, physically or emotionally. We need tant. If we can appear relaxed and confident, even in a to recognize that our clients’ motivation, their desire to be gnarly situation, it will reduce or dispel anxiety in the group. with us in the mountains, usually stems from one of their Tension is the last thing we want, especially when skiing. higher levels of need, but if they are to satisfy it (however We need to be aware of how powerfully suggestive lan- temporarily), we have to ensure that their more basic needs guage can be, e.g. “It’s important not to fall here” will are also met. For instance, if we fail to create a happy team ensure that that is precisely what happens. It is worth de- and instead are leading a group characterized by bickering veloping a repertoire of jokes, stories or games for distract- and selfish behaviour, it is quite likely that we will fail in our ing attention or lightening a situation; and, conversely, ways objective, to the disappointment of those looking for achieve- of focussing attention when needed - deep-breathing, visu- ment or recognition, and we will certainly not provide an alisation etc. atmosphere conducive to a “wilderness experience” or those fleeting moments of unity or loss of self that some of our clients may be seeking. Conclusion For a skill on which our success or failure as guides de- Conflict pends, most of us pay remarkably little attention to how we lead or to how we might develop as leaders. This article In any group, sooner or later a situation will arise that needs does no more than skate over the surface of some huge confronting or conflict will occur between individuals or be- areas of knowledge and research, and introduce a few rel- tween one or more individuals and the leader. How it is evant models; but if it encourages guides (and other in- handled determines not only the leader’s credibility, but structors) to make their leadership a more conscious and whether the team becomes stronger or weaker as a result. considered process, it will have served a useful function. Key to this is the ability to remain assertive without becom- ing either passive or aggressive (or passive-aggressive). Rob Collister is a UIAGM Guide, based at Plas y Brenin in Maintaining an assertive position depends on awareness of North Wales.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 2 5

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 25 11/02/2002, 10:56 AM BMC INSURANCE Clear Cover Benefits are designed to be clear, transparent and avoid com- plex legal jargon. The 5 different levels of cover have been THE CLEAR CHOICE! changed to clearly reflect the type of cover being provided:

Does Insurance Leave You Seeing Double? Travel - provides cover for individual or family members Buying something you hope you will never need, might not who are not participating in any sports but require basic trust or benefit from seems an odd purchase decision. How- medical, travel and baggage cover. ever these are the terms on which many commercial insur- Trek - includes hill walking, trekking, backpacking and easy ance companies expect you to buy travel and activity insur- scrambles including via ferrata, and trekking routes. ance. BMC Travel and Activity Insurance was established to Rock - covers , , bouldering and now offer the benefits commercial insurers could not offer whilst climbing with leader placed protection. providing a better deal for you. The BMC now insures many Alpine & Ski - is one of the most popular policies covering thousands of members such as you because we offer twice all previous activities along with skiing, , snow the benefit of commercial insurers. Firstly, active experts and , and other winter activities. design all BMC policies. So you can trust the benefits have Expedition - covers climbs and expeditions to remote, dif- been tested in some of the most remote regions around the ficult and high altitude peaks anywhere in the world. world. Secondly, all surpluses from BMC insurance are in- vested in work that promotes your interests and protects Applications your freedoms – so the only one to profit is you. Applying for cover is easy, there are no complicated premium calculations and the forms are the simplest you will find any- No Cost Increase where. Policies are available from 3 days to annual cover Despite the world problems the insurance industry faced along with discounts for families and extensions for baggage following the events of 11 September in America the BMC and cancellation cover. Finally, don’t forget that with BMC has negotiated to bring you improved benefits whilst hold- insurance you see a double benefit with a great policy and ing prices at 2001 rates. Emergency medical cover has now the reassurance that any surplus is invested back into work, been extended to cover you up to £10 million to provide such as access and conservation, that benefits you. you with peace of mind wherever you travel. Rescue cost are increased from £20,000 to £50,000 to cover the in- Apply Now! creasing costs of search, rescue and recovery. The benefits In your next issue of Summit you will receive a free copy of for hospital inconvenience, money, cancellation, delayed the 2002 Travel and Activity Insurance Guide. If you would departure, missed departure and legal expenses are in- like to apply for cover sooner please call, fax, write or email creased to cover the changing needs of those venturing for a copy of the Guide. Alternatively, visit the BMC website overseas. and apply for cover online at www.thebmc.co.uk

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your freedomsThe distinctive – Indian Head, Bridestones ...... Postcode: ...... so the only one Return to: British Mountaineering Council, Member Services, FREEPOST MR9759, 26to profit is you. Manchester M20 7AD Fax: 0161BMC 445 4500SUMMIT E-mail: [email protected] ISSUE 25

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SKI

THE WHITE WAY Where to Ski-mountaineer? neath the North face of the Matterhorn, the extra day is liable to feel an anti-climax. By Rob Collister, Plas y Brenin The traditional takes six days, weather per- mitting, and crosses a shoulder of the Grand Combin known irst, a clarification. Should we be talking about ski- as the Plateau du Couloir, which involves carrying skis up at touring or ski-mountaineering? Basically, they are the least three hundred metres of steep snow, sometimes ice. F same thing. It used to be said that ski touring was the A popular, easier alternative is to by-pass the Grand Combin same as cross-country skiing (also known as nordic or lang- by taking a route from Verbier to the Lac de Dix, rejoining lauf), using very light free-heel equipment; whereas ski- the original route at the Vignettes hut, having traversed the mountaineering used heavier boots and skis with a binding Pigne d’Arolla. The Patrouille des (Glacier Patrol, that could be clamped down in descent, to tackle steeper so named by the Swiss army in the nineteen thirties) is a terrain. But the telemark revolution has put paid to that, race which covers the same ground in reverse, from Zermatt with free-heel equipment being used on even the steepest to Verbier, in a single day. Another variation, favoured by of slopes. Some will still argue that ski-touring is about making Swiss and German guided parties in particular, starts from a journey either from hut to hut or, failing that, pitching Zermatt but avoids the Grand Combin by crossing the Fenêtre camp somewhere new every night; whereas ski-mountain- Durand into Italy: from the little village of Glacier they travel eering is about the ascent and descent of specific peaks. by taxi to , take the telepherique up to the Torino However, that argument does not really hold water as many hut and ski down the Vallée Blanche, somehow persuading hut to hut tours involve traversing a peak on the way and themselves that they have completed the Haute Route! the equipment and techniques required are exactly the It is a weakness of even the traditional Haute Route that same. So let’s regard them as interchangeable terms. road transport must be used between and Bourg Ask your average climber, or skier, come to that, what they St Pierre at the end of Day two from Chamonix. However, know of ski-touring and the chances are they will mention for the purist a challenging option is to cross the East ridge the Haute Route. Originally named the High Level Route by of the and descend into the Swiss ; a the British alpinists who pioneered it in the 19th century, second day takes one up the valley and over a high col to this wonderfully scenic glacier journey from Chamonix to the Great St Bernard Monastery which provides cheap dortoir Zermatt is without doubt the most famous ski tour in the accommodation for itinerant ski tourers; and a third day world. As such, it is much-frequented but also often under- takes one through some steep, complex terrain to the Vélan estimated. It is by no means a piece of cake and not hut. An ascent of Mont Vélan, a very fine ski peak, can be recommended as a first tour if it is to be enjoyed rather than combined with rejoining the classic Haute Route at the merely ticked. The journey can be continued to Saas Fée, Valsorey hut beneath the Grand Combin. butSNOW it is hard + to ROCK avoid the :: lifts OUTSIDE and pistes of:: Zermatt,MOUNTAIN and The SHACK Pennine ::Alps, COTSWOLD in fact, lend themselves to an almost after the drama of crossing three cols and skiing down be- infinite number of variations on the Haute Route theme. A

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31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 28 11/02/2002, 10:59 AM Lifesaver glance at the Swiss 1:50,000 ski map (with the blue cover) reveals a network of mountain huts, each one the hub of a spider’s web of red lines indicating possible ski routes. Spring is the usual season for ski-touring. The days are or your money back! getting longer and temperatures milder, but there is still plenty of snow in the mountains and glaciers are at their safest. During April and May many huts will be open, with a guardian in residence providing meals and drinks, enabling ‘Set to become a skiers to travel light. However, if you prefer the emptiness very important tool in of the Alps out of season and are prepared to carry your own food and a stove, nearly all huts have a winter room, mountain survival’ which can be used at any time. It is this hut system that makes the Alps unique and has made ski-touring so popu- lar compared with other parts of the world such as Canada, ‘Should help the U.S. and New Zealand. revolutionise emergency Nowadays, every region of the Alps likes to boast its own mountain protection’ Haute Route and there is excellent ski-touring to be found even in peripheral areas like Bavaria in the north, the Dolo- Andy Kirkpatrick, High Magazine mites and the Julian Alps in the east and the Alpes Maritimes in the south. The greatest scope, however, is to be found in the higher, more central areas, where glaciation is most extensive and snow lasts longer. Rivalling the Pennine Alps as a mecca for ski-tourers is the Bernese Oberland, with a concentration of 4000 metre peaks like the Finsteraarhorn, Fiescherhorn and Gross Grunhorn, which lend themselves to a long approach on ski followed by a short but interesting mixed ridge to the summit. Oth- ers, only slightly lower, like the Ebnefluh and the Gross the world’s Wennenhorn, can be skied all the way to the top. At these altitudes ski-touring is a viable proposition well into June, most though you need to start and finish early in the day. Many skiers access the range by the Jungfraujoch railway from Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen and it is tempting to stay the efficient night at the nearby Monchjoch hut. However, it is at over sleeping (LEFT) Skiers below the Grosse Seehorn (3121m), Silvretta, Switzerland. Credit: Doug Evans. (BELOW) Climbing steeply to the Col du Chardonnet - this is the first stage of bag Y the Chamonix - Zermatt Haute Route. Credit: Doug Evans. Steve Long using a Blizzard Pack at 5500m on the Norwegian Pillar, North Wales Great Trango Expedition, 2001.

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31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 29 11/02/2002, 11:00 AM TECHNICALSKI

3600 metres and unless you are already well-acclimatized GETTING STARTED the consequence is likely to be a headache and nausea that If you want to start under tuition or to try out the gear at night and the following day for some, at least, of the party. It someone else’s expense, the national centres run intro- is wiser to descend to the Konkordia hut 600 metres lower ductory courses, as do a number of British Mountain for your first night (despite the sting in the tail of 350 steps Guides. The Eagle Ski Club has an extensive programme up a metal ladder necessitated by glacier recession). of guided and unguided tours, and The Ski Club of Great In France, the Vanoise national park to the south of Mont Britain also has a touring programme along with ski-safaris Blanc gives some surprisingly remote-feeling tours, given the and off-piste holidays. But if you prefer to do your own plethora of ski resorts surrounding it, and relatively small huts thing, remember that avalanches are a very real hazard limit the numbers in the area at any one time. The plum in for the skier. Learn all you can about snow, and carry a this region is the Grand Casse by its West face which, while transceiver and a shovel, just in case. (See Summit 24) . not in the extreme ski category, is definitely steep (35° – Consider attending an avalanche awareness course. 40°) for a thought-provoking 300 metres. Just over the border is an Italian national park, the Gran Plas y Brenin, North Wales Paradiso, which is known for its large herds of ibex. For ski- www.pyb.co.uk mountaineers, the main draw is the 4000 metre peak of the Glenmore Lodge, Aviemore same name, but the Benevolo hut at the head of the Val di www.glenmorelodge.org.uk Rhemes, south of Aosta, has become a very popular base for The Eagle Ski Club day tours and courses (It can also be reached on ski from Val www.eagleskiclub.org.uk d’Isere in France by crosssing a col.). The UK’s largest ski touring and ski mountaineering club. It South again, the Ecrins region offers serious ski mountain- organises up to 30 ski trips a year, ranging from hotel and eering with steep-sided valleys and few cols that are easy to chalet-based day tours to ski expeditions in the Arctic and cross on ski, though the slopes of the 4000 metre Dome de the Greater Ranges. Neige des Ecrins are liable to become mogulled during the The Alpine Ski Club Easter period! The La Grave unpisted ski area under the Meije The Alpine Ski Club welcomes active and enthusiastic ski- on the northern fringe of the area is a good place to warm up mountaineers that are committed to ski mountaineering. and acclimatize before heading into the mountains, when there www.alpineskiclub.org.uk is sufficient snow. To the east of the Ecrins, the Queyras is a Scottish Ski Club beautiful area with more mellow terrain suitable for introduc- The Scottish Ski Club was founded in 1907 to promote all tory tours. At the other end of the Alps, areas like the Silvretta, types of skiing in Scotland. The club maintains a number on the Swiss-Austrian border, and the Otztal and the Stubai in of huts in Scotland. Austria, are also good places to start ski-touring. www.frogston.demon.co.uk/ssc In Scandinavia, the scope for hut to hut touring is immense The Ski Club of Great Britain but much of the terrain is rolling and best suited to lang-lauf With over 27,000 members, the largest ski club in the UK. skiing. The Lyngen Alps in northern Norway is a notable ex- www.skiclub.co.uk ception, like a larger, glaciated Glencoe, but a lack of huts makes life complicated. Areas like the Serek national park in Sweden require the same sort of expedition approach that is necessary in Svalbard or Greenland and it is common to use small sledges or pulks to carry food and equipment. Over the water in North America, skiers in general prefer to access untracked snow by helicopter or snowcat. Although there are huts and lodges they tend to be isolated and best used as a base for day tours. Ski journeys are of necessity expeditions and if the terrain is steep, pulks are not practical, so tents, sleeping bag, stove, food etc. must all go in a pack, which does tend to cramp one’s style downhill. However, a ski tour does not have to be an endurance test if time is allowed for camping early and making unladen ascents. Ex- ceptions, where European-style hut to hut touring is possible, are the Tenth Mountain Trail in Colorado and the Wapta Icefields traverse in the Bow Lake area in British Columbia. And what of nearer home? In this era of global warming, good skiing in Scotland, let alone Wales or the Lakes, has be- come rarer and rarer. The SMC guide to ski-touring in Scotland must be one of the most mis- Winter Sports Instructor Programmes leading books ever published, with picture after picture of flaw- Canada & New Zealand 2002 less blue skies and a thick blan- ket of snow. They must have all • CSIA, CASI, NZSIA Ski & Snowboard been taken the same week-end instruction & examination somewhere back in the seven- • CAA & NZMSC Avalanche Level 1 ties …To experience anything instruction & examination other than a long walk with some pretty rough skiing at the end of • Backcountry snowcat & heli-touring it, you need to be unemployed • 3 to 12 week programmes available and living on the spot, or ex- tremely lucky. No harm trying, Sven Brunso at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, B.C. by Henri Georgi though! For more information please contact the Ski touring at St Foy, near Val International School of Sport: T: 01572 813 701 F: 01572 812 932 D'Isere. Credit: John Eales 30 BMC SUMMITE: [email protected] - ISSUE W: www.theISOS.com 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 30 11/02/2002, 11:02 AM THE EVEREST OF EXHIBITIONS Like Everest, the Helly Hansen displays of mountain photography and artwork so make sure you don’t miss them. Since August visitors have been able Mountaineering Exhibition keeps on to see a collection of Abraham brothers photographs and a growing- so make the most of our collection of images by Steve Razzetti who has been explor- special BMC offer whilst it lasts, and ing, photographing and writing about the for nearly 20 years. In the spring these displays will be updated and see the world for just £2.25! a collection of John Ruskin’s work will be added. There are also plans to show the photos taken on Ed Douglas’s recent It’s over six months now since the Helly Hansen National Everest Clean-Up expedition and possibly a collection of Mountaineering Exhibition opened its doors to the public pastels and drawings by Howard Somervell. Somervell made and it continues to go from strength to strength. The main a failed attempt on the summit of Everest as part of the now Exhibition houses the permanent displays in a series of famous Mallory and Irvine expedition of 1924 (you’ll have Camps that tell the story of British mountaineering from the to read A Brief History for all the gory details!). first meeting of the Alpine Club in 1857 to the antics of the And for the rest of this year you can see the collection latest generation of talented climbers. The journey from found by the 1999 research expedition who discovered the Golden Days of stops off in Cumbria to ’s body on Everest. Anyone who has seen remember the cragrats and their exploits in the fells and the BBC documentary will not be able to forget the images then moves on to cover major British successes in the of Mallory’s body. Well the items seen there are on display Greater Ranges. In Camp 4 sit in on an afternoon cuppa at the Exhibition. Included are his remaining boot, items of with John Peel, Sir Chris Bonington and George Band who clothing, his watch and altimeter. All tantalising clues to mull over climbing past, present and future. If all this isn’t perpetuate the mystery surrounding their expedition. enough there’s a fascinating look at how technology has And, as this is the first full year of operation the Exhibition played a role in climbing’s development and you can take a is making a special offer to BMC members... close look at some of the ropes, safety devices and foot- From now until Sunday April 7th BMC members will be wear that climbers have used. After you’ve taken all this in and had a look at George Band’s collection of memorabilia able to get into the Exhibition for half price, bringing from his Everest ’53 climb, you can put your feet up for a the adult price down to just £2.25. You can also get a while and watch John Peel’s ‘interview in a tent’ with George. copy of A Brief History of British Mountaineering which George takes John back to May of 1953 with the help of accompanies the Exhibition for just £10 instead of the the diary he kept at the time and footage filmed on the recommended price of £15. The book is also available mountain. It’s a rare interview with someone who was part from the BMC and you can get details of exactly what is of one of the most exciting events in human history. on display at the Exhibition by calling 01768 86800 or So there’s plenty to see and plenty of time to see it, but visiting the exhibition website www.mountain- the Display Area and Photo Gallery are home to short-term exhibition.co.uk

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31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 31 11/02/2002, 11:05 AM VISIONARIES

f you go down to the boulders to- day, you might be in for a shock. & VANDALS I Gritstone is under attack, and the weapons of choice? Wire brushes and ?? chisels. Whether it’s intentional de- Something's eroding the spirit of meaning of the rock to suit a person’s standard, or over zealous brushing, the climbing. What can be done? result is the same. Permanent, disfig- not just in the metaphorical sense in- ing move’ up into the groove and above uring scarring - offensive to all who see tended. This is what I discovered when your last runner, now sports a freshly it. Dave Bishop, BMC Access rep for I paid an early visit: On ‘Cracked Arete’, gouged-out wire placement in the Staffordshire, surveys the damage in VD, in the ‘Magic Roundabout’ area a groove just where you always wanted his area, but it doesn’t stop there, hold has been sculpted at the start for one but couldn’t have it. Yorkshire Grit has fallen prey too. Read no apparent reason. On the boulders on to find out more, and what people behind ‘Dangerous Crocodile Snogging’ “The irony is, of course, if you really really think about it. there has traditionally been a test-piece want to climb this route as an HVS tech- 5b mantelshelf problem almost straight nical problem then all you have to do is STAFFORDSHIRE off the footpath. Not any more there step left at the bottom of the groove and Thanks to co-operation on simple ain’t. Some budding Epstein has chis- place a wire high up in a crack on The guidelines and precautions drawn up elled out finger holds on the starting Arete (Severe). Bingo! A nice safe tick between climbers, represented by the move and permanently altered, down- and the route stays unaltered and in its BMC, and the Peak Park as owners, graded, and disfigured the problem. original character for those who can ac- Ramshaw was the first grit crag to open- cept its challenge.“- Dave Garnett, Staf- up in the Staffordshire area during the “It took me several goes to do this, it fordshire Guidebook Editor. current foot and mouth epidemic. This was a climb at the top of my ability and was good news as conditions were nigh I was really pleased when I finally did That’s not the end of the saga how- on perfect, every route got repeated, it. Now it’s been ruined. Why can’t ever. Down the road a little, Newstones and Clippety Clop (big numbers) had some people accept that there are had to wait a few weeks longer to open. its first and second ascents. You could problems you have to keep going back When eventually it did, what greeted say that the place took a ‘hammering’. to in order to succeed and lots that climbers was a mosaic of heavily wire- You would be right, but unfortunately you’ll probably never be able to do?“ - brushed and freshly sculpted holds. Mike Battye, local climber. The popularity of Newstones as a (LEFT) As it should be. Credit: Niall bouldering area has increased enor- Grimes. (RIGHT) Newstones - Heavy ‘Louie Groove’ (who was Louie?), an mously since the publication of the wire brushing and surface damage, El 5b for 36 years, with an ‘intimidat- Rockfax guide, and as an inevitable But what happens before help arrives? problem 19. Credit: Dave Bishop. The north face of Cerro Kishtwar Credit: Ollie Sanders - Plas y Brenin, the Photo: Andy MacNae 32 National Mountain Centre BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 32 11/02/2002, 11:08 AM “It’s nothing short of vandalism, and I’m deeply saddened that climbers and boulderers can be capable of such wanton destruction.“ - Frank Connell. A very local climber, Corner House, Newstones.

“String 'em up! I don’t see any reason why I or anyone else should need to take a wire brush out on grit any more” – John Arran. Leading grit climber. Newstones - Martin's Traverse and the Ripple. Credit: Dave Bishop

consequence accidental damage to tify their actions (worth E10 at least!), some of the fragile rock flakes has taken then we shall probably never know. place. But what has happened here Do you remember the furore caused recently is something else. Between when The Peak Park sanctioned the Charlie’s Overhang and Sly Buttress we placing of bolts in Hen Cloud in 1999 counted 17 sculpted holds and we to facilitate the making of a transient didn’t even bother to count the heavily episode of ‘Peak Practice’ for Carlton wire-brushed ones where the rock sur- TV? Overwhelmingly the feeling among face had been attacked. The worst af- climbers then was one of disgust and fected area is on Scratch Buttress where dismay at the thought of ‘our’ precious a low-down horizontal line of holds has gritstone being altered and damaged been developed and this particular ex- by what we considered to be outside ample is one of that line underneath interests, when we, the true guardians ‘Itchy Fingers’ a B4 problem. of the rock, had spent years safeguard- ing its purity. That protest was loud, “It’s nothing short of vandalism, and public, and largely successful, and the I’m deeply saddened that climbers and Peak Park, to their credit, changed their boulderers can be capable of such policy so that such actions are unlikely wanton destruction.“ - Frank Connell. ever to be approved again. A very local climber, Corner House, Consider the irony for a moment or Newstones. two. Is alteration to the rock accept- able by climbers because it makes pos- Newstones - Sculpted hold below Yet another ‘improvement’ has been sible new routes, but unacceptable by problem 30. Credit: Dave Bishop done on Rockfax problem 30, B4 (see ‘outsiders’ filming for public entertain- photo right). Another example of heavy ment and commercial benefit, who wish wire-brushing for you to see (photo left) to safeguard their workers? Surely not. “All this chit chat is very nice, is taken from problem 19, a B2 or B6 , It’s either both or neither. For most but what are we actually make your choice. (But don’t take your climbers, it’s the second option, nei- going to do about it? Every pick!) There are many more examples, ther. Clearly, as evidenced by the above but you probably get the picture by now. examples and photos, there are ‘climb- month or so recently it ers’ out there, members of the Wire- emerges that someone has “Most of the damage and altered brush and Chisel Branch of the Out- improved some holds or holds seem to be low-down. I think it’s door Climbing Wall Constructors Guild, been done to develop sit-down starts who act differently, even if they don’t over-brushed something. But to some of the problems. But it’s still think. Their actions affect us all and it seems to stop at discussion, unacceptable and unsustainable. undermine currently acceptable stand- and lo and behold the Look, if you rub the surface now with ards of behaviour. your finger the grit comes off in your So that these few individuals can be chipping happens again, hand.“ - Clare Bond, BMC Access and identified and persuaded to desist, we and again. So what can we Conservation Officer. all need to be vigilant. Therefore if you see anyone with a wire brush anywhere practically do to stop this? What is difficult to establish is exactly near grit, question their motives closely We all talk about educating when this damage was done, but it all -very closely: climbers, but can this be looks pretty fresh, it wasn’t noticed un- Explain that rock should be climbed til this Spring, so sometime in the last as it is and not as you would like it to implemented quickly and twelve months would be a reasonable be. Altering and designing the rock to effectively? The longer it assumption. It has proved impossible, make routes is an unacceptable form takes, the more routes get so far, to establish exactly who has done of self-indulgence and vainglorious this. Unless whoever it was is reading behaviour, and it is a crime against damaged” this now and cares to own up and jus- climbing and the environment. - Dave, on Planet Fear.com

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31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 33 11/02/2002, 11:09 AM Point out that if cleaning is neces- sary to remove loose material then a CLIMBER'S VIEWS.. stiff bristle brush can be used (with care) and the rock left undamaged. “Sad I know but some ignorant climb for everyone else? If you want to Above all, tell them that if they can- t*****s have been out with the steel climb artificial climbs, build a climbing not do the problem as it stands then brushes again. The boulder under the wall in your house and leave the real they should keep trying; train harder; Unconquerables at Stanage has been climbing to those who accept minute and or admit they ain’t good enough and vandalised. The front face looks like marginal holds for what they are, a chal- leave it for better climbers. it's been climbed with ice tools and lenge!” Robert, on ukclimbing.com That’s the challenge; that’s the ad- holds systematically improved. But you venture; that’s the learning curve. I’m really have to see the back face - it “Also to add to the chipped/over told that to get a serious point over a takes brushing to a new level. You can brushed category is an arete at bit of humour helps. Well, tell them a actually see grooves in the rock, flakes Cratcliffe, Rockfax Guide, p.155, prob- joke if you have to, but make sure they have been ‘brushed off’ and a 10cm lem 13. - B8 The fine arete from a get the point. diameter area is now red raw around sitting start. A foothold was chipped The future of climbing and the envi- each hold. These problems were fu- here but it has now crumbled away – ronment in which we enjoy it is down ture classics waiting to be climbed” – Well, I tried this in the summer, and to you. Are you up to it? Sloper, on ukclimbing.com trashed my shin when my foot pinged off the crap smear. Just went back and STOP PRESS: There is some fresh “I can’t quite understand this chipping there’s a nice 1/2cm wide foothold wire-brushing damage on the Spring mentality, if you ain’t good enough to there again, making it at least a boulders at The Roaches, and more climb it, why don’t you f**k off and try easier. Very clever."-Brendon Tendon, of the same with chipping at the something easier instead of ruining the on ukclimbing.com Doxey Pool Boulders. It’s vigilante time now, before it’s too late. A WIDDOP VARIATION - THE DISEASE HITS YORKSHIRE That last bastion of true British climb- the routes difficulty - it must have been ing - Yorkshire Grit - home of boltless done by one of our peers - who is hardly THE BMC LINE: climbs housing the hardest routes (well be going to criminalise himself by claim- until they’re superseded) in the World ing it as it covers no new ground. Treat the rock with respect has also fallen foul of the dreaded wire Now as I’m ancient I’m well aware brush. Go along to Widdop and Gorple that Widdop has always been a place Gritstone has a hard and you can find Reservoir Dogs, of sacrilege with on Original outer ‘skin’, try not to Widdop Wall, Eternal and Carmen Pi- Route, cut holds on Artificial Route and remove or erode this casso and - if you look very, very, hard holes on Purgatory Problem itself you can find where the routes go be- but all that was long ago and, today, Do not use wire brushes cause their creators did them with the the Dunne’s of this world have shown on existing routes or absolute minimum of cleaning. that they can do it without. When the problems. Be aware that But no longer, because an old E5, on 3 C’s rotted away no one re- even plastic brushes can Purgatory Problem, has been vandal- placed it and we manage without. Why ised by the most incredible brushing I cause damage can’t those good enough to climb Pur- have ever seen over an area of over gatory do it this way? 2m by 1m. Not only is this visible from No-one can now climb in the area Never attempt to improve hundreds of yards away but some of without the aid of the “cleaned” rock or change the rock in the scratching is so deep that they al- and everyone suffers the visual intru- anyway most constitute holds in themselves. I sion on a piece of rock so visually out- don’t know how recently it was done standing that it used to be Calderdale’s Never, ever chip because I first saw it after six months access symbol illustrated on their bro- absence due to Foot and Mouth but it chures and road signs. is in the recent past and - because of - John Belbin, BMC Yorkshire Rep. WHAT OF THE FUTURE? AND MORE CLIMBER'S VIEWS.. So, what do we have to look forward to? A wasteland of chipped, over “The top of Ou Est Le Spit has been son why I or anyone else should need brushed boulders? Hopefully not, if the brushed making a good hold and turn- to take a wire brush out to grit any message can be continually broadcast ing it in to a E4/5 6a. Stop brush- more - just use the extra effort to help that over-brushing and chipping is just ing!” – Mark S, on ukclimbing.com warm up” – John Arran, on not acceptable. ukclimbing.com But it's always worth remembering “It looks like the nose at Burbage that rock-sculpting is just one facet of West has been wire-brushed recently, “I think the simple answer to clean- the impact of bouldering. It's all too I suppose to clean the already-very- ing with wire brushes is don’t. Even if easy to decry the dramatic damage clean holds, holds that aren’t even in expert hands. Stiff plastic only. If caused by the phantom brusher, but used on the problem. Nice one mo- the wire brushing increases as well as it's sometimes worth thinking about rons.” – Dave, on ukclimbing.com being aesthetically displeasing and de- your own habits too. Do you really need stroying the rock it may eventually that extra chalk? Have you picked up “Sadly there is sometimes a need cause access problems” - Mick Ryan, all your rubbish? Did you really need not just to be responsible but to be on ukclimbing.com to take four cars to the crag? Small seen to be responsible. Stiff nylon things, but like the strokes of a brush, brushes do work, albeit with a bit they soon add up. more effort, so I don’t see any rea-

34 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

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FORUM Guidebooks - The Future As Confucious might have said - if you want to start an argument amongst climbers, simply mention bolts, Park & Ride or guidebooks then leave them to it. But what does the future of guidebooks hold for climbers? Summit asks three people who should have a better idea than most - Dave Turnbull (BMC Chief Officer), Alan James (Rockfax), and Niall Grimes (BMC Guidebook Co-ordinator).

Whose Line is it Anyway? – Dave Turnbull Guidebooks go to the very heart of our sport providing the definitive historical record of who did what, when and in what style. Route descriptions tend to pass from one gen- eration of guide to the next with little change whilst grades are tweaked (usually upwards), new routes incorporated and graded lists added. The majority of guidebooks we use today are produced purely on a voluntary basis by the Climb- ers’ Club, BMC, FRCC, YMC and others, and the effort in- volved in guide production is simply staggering. Quite right then that voluntary producers feel ownership of route de- scriptions and claim copyright over descriptions, lists and databases that make up our guidebooks. The whole question of voluntary versus commercial guide- books is an area where the BMC finds itself on difficult ter- rain. On the one hand the BMC has always had a most im- portant relationship with the country’s climbing clubs, and in general both have always acted in each other’s best inter- ests, so the concerns that clubs have over the ramifications of commercial guides is a concern too for the BMC. But on the other hand, the BMC today is a broad church which rep- resents a wide range of climbers, many of whom have no affiliation to any club whatsoever, both individual members The new BMC Stanage guide - due out soon. of the BMC as well as non-members. So, while the BMC is concerned over the impact of commercial guides, we are that saw a continuous output of inspirational gritstone and also aware that we, as an organisation, cannot rightfully boy- limestone guides, a gradual stagnation plagued the BMC cott other guides that our members like and choose to buy. guidebook system over the past few years. This is now lift- So where does that leave us and can a balance be struck ing. As editor of the forthcoming Froggatt guide, it has been between the voluntary and commercial sectors? I suspect a pleasure to be involved with some of the best climbers in the answer lies somewhere in the depths of improving the the Peak. Ben Heason, writer of the Froggatt section, has dialogue between the two. The BMC is ultimately committed ticked almost every route in the crag, including second and to the volunteer guidebook system and will support volun- first solo ascents of many of the desperates, and probably tary producers wherever it can, but at the end of the day the first on-sights of many too. I doubt if a crag of the commercial guidebooks are here to stay and it's up to all of stature of Froggatt has ever been so comprehensively ticked. us to work together to give climbers what they want - quality Pete Robins in doing the same at the mighty Curbar, working guidebooks. his way through climbs in superb style, and adding many of his own as he goes. Volunteer Participation – Niall Grimes These are just two examples of the new blood that has Change, once one has gotten over the natural human terror started to come in to work on guides, but in these two ex- of it, soon starts to seem pretty exciting. And I for one can amples and many others like them, lie a great future for the feel the terror starting to subside, and more than a vague volunteer system, and are in a way an example of what I twinkling of excitement starting to glow inside me for the see as the great potential strength of the volunteer system- future of BMC guides. So what is this change? The wrangles that is the participation of climbers. The new chair of the of the past two years have been far from satisfactory to guidebook committee, Richard Wheeldon, through his work anyone involved in guidebooks in the Peak District – not for behind the counter in Hathersage’s Outside shop, is very the BMC, nor for Rockfax, and certainly not for the climbing well aware of what climbers actually want. And with a greater public. But these events are past now, and while not forgot- participation from a wider group of climbers, as I hope to ten, all those involved with the BMC and Rockfax feel it is see, there will also be a great opportunity to find out first time to start to move forward. So, in this piece, I intend to hand what climbers want, as well as a means to provide it. concentrate on what the future holds for the third and most Well, here’s what I would like to / hope to see develop very important section of the equation – the climbers. soon for the BMC guidebook system; Right then. The BMC guidebook system is, over the next few years, going to provide the climbing public with a collec- - A regular output of good looking definitive guides to all tion of guides that will not just serve their needs at the crag, Peak District crags. but will inspire, inform and entertain them better than any - For these guides to be as accurate and as easy to use as guides have done in the past. After many successful years possible.

36 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 36 11/02/2002, 11:13 AM COMPETITIONS

- For the guidebook system to be very open and responsi- ble to all the climbing public, responding to their demands and reacting to their opinions. - To encourage the involvement of as wide a range of active passionate climbers as possible, from the occasional VD leader to the full time E9 merchant, as well as encouraging all the talented volunteers who had put their time into the system in the past, to continue to support the new system - To reward the superb efforts of all volunteer guide writers by getting their work on the shelves as quickly and as at- tractively as it should be - To provide all the information that guide users want, in- cluding good histories, graded lists, informative and enter- taining first ascent lists including such information as first on-sights etc. - To ensure that the voluntary system of guidebook system continues to survive and flourish and gives the public what they deserve for at least another hundred years. That doesn’t seem unreasonable, does it?

Online Vision – Alan James, Rockfax Buying a modern style guide, like a Rockfax, is like sleeping with the sexy person next door. It’s like cheating on your trusted partner, who has given you many hours of pleasure on the crag, in the tent, and even under your duvet. And cheating on this big old mama with a slick young thing just isn’t a very nice thing to do. Let’s face it, the endless discussion about guidebooks - Lucy Creamer on Chequer's Buttress, Froggatt. From how they are produced and, more importantly, by whom - is the cover of the On Peak Rock reprint (due April '02). a discussion shrouded in sentiment. There is nothing wrong Credit Ian Parnell with loyalty and even a touch of conservatism isn’t always a bad thing, but I would like to turn to boring cold facts. After ducers can tap into this information - it is there on our site all, life isn’t just about sex. for all to see - and the more producers get involved in this, What should a guide do? Well it should tell you where the the more information there will be. routes are, how hard they are and it should be accurate and With competition you get variation, you get innovation and up-to-date. It should inspire you to leave the sanctuary of you get market stimulation. Sloppy products are shown up your duvet, and it should be written for climbers, not for the for what they are, the innovative products shine through authors’ ego. In the past there has been limited choice and gaps are plugged. Climbers get a choice and ultimately verging in many areas on a monopoly, with only one guide it will be shown that there is plenty of market room for differ- for a crag and maybe a selected guide covering the best of ent styles of guidebooks to cover one crag. It is often per- the routes. This has led to information gaps resulting from ceived that this will mean no coverage for lesser crags. Who long waits between guides or reprints. Pembroke and North is going to include the poxy quarry in their expensive book Devon by the Climbers’ Club were both out of print for years when it’s only had 3 visits in the last 10 years? Well, don’t, with no real alternative available. The BMC Stanage guide stick it on the web and suddenly you have the information, has been constantly available due to reprints but it is really you have the record, but you don’t have the delays caused a version of the ‘83 guide with new routes added in ‘89; by re-writing it for the new edition. What about the minor that’s nearly 20 years since a real re-write. 20 years that routes? Again they could have a permanent home on the have seen the biggest IT advance in history. web. However both the quarry and the minor routes will So what happens if instead of the closed-shop approach probably be just as happy in a definitive guide. After all, in a we have open competition? What if the route information is competitive market, a definitive big mama will have at least regarded as public property and as such can be used openly one major selling point over the selective sexy young thing. and freely by anyone? I believe that this attitude is not only There is another old line trotted out each time the waters the best way to go; it is the only way to go since the web has of the guidebook world are stirred: “We need the funds from made it inevitable. It is also my belief that it offers remark- our big seller to help pay for this little fella.” Not so. It is ably little threat to the history and tradition of climbing which possible to produce a profitable book for any area. Just is very dear to our hearts. look at the number of small areas which are covered by If you open up access to the information with every route books produced by small businesses: Merseyside Sand- described on the web then the historical record is preserved, stone (Stone) and Climbing in North East England (Smart the feedback potential is immense and the ability to keep it Boys Publishing) to name but two. These books may not up-to-date is unparalleled. The amount of information we have made a lot of money, but they exist, as do the compa- have assembled via the Rockfax online route databases is nies that published them. truly staggering and makes all other research look outra- All you have do to is ask yourself what you want. I suspect geously undemocratic in comparison. Most club guides are the answer will be that you want both the comfort of the big assembled by a team of 30 people at most. The Peak mama and the radical appeal of the sexy young thing. Well, Gritstone East Rockfax had emailed comments from over unlike in the real world, you can actually have them both 500 people and online votes from over 1000. But all pro- this time and no-one will be upset!

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 3 7

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 37 11/02/2002, 11:14 AM A Degrading Life Care and maintenance of your metallic equipment

Life moves fast these days. With the increasing popularity of climbing, manufacturers are taking every advantage of the latest advances in materials and technology to make exciting new gear available each year. But one thing never changes, climbing has been and always will be a risk sport, and all the latest equipment in the world will only increase the margin of safety at which you operate. Risk can never be eliminated, so it’s absolutely vital to understand the limitations of equipment, and recognise the situations that may cause it to become damaged or even fail.

But how do you know if a certain piece of equipment is damaged? Should you throw a rope away after washing it in detergent? What’s a stress fracture? That’s where the long anticipated new edition of the BMC’s Care & Maintenance Book comes in. This is a concise 60 page full colour guide to caring for your kit, and should be one piece of equipment not to forget. Just one of the important subjects covered is degradation of metallic equipment, so read on if even if you only own a single karabiner, and especially if you’ve ever dropped it in the sea! Equipment degradation Every time you use your gear it is under attack from a vari- ety of sources - UV light, dirt, dust, water, salt – really, the surprise is not that climbing gear sometimes fails, but that it doesn’t more often! Here are some of the more common forms of metallic degradation that occur, and some of the ways in which you can combat them: Seawater corrosion Sea Cliff climbing can be outstanding - but what's Seawater and airborne sea spray present a number of cor- happening to your gear? rosion problems of varying severity to all metallic climbing equipment. In all cases the corrosive agent is aqueous chlo- As soon as possible after returning home - all equipment ride ions from the salt in the water, and this generally at- that has been contaminated with salt water should be thor- tacks moving parts such as the gate, springs and latch, or oughly washed in tap water, preferably with a little mild de- areas of equipment where two different alloys are in con- tergent. Then remove all surface water and put in a warm, tact with each other. dry airy place (such as a rack in an airing cupboard) to dry After every use of climbing gear on sea cliffs, and any- off the remaining moisture. With chocks and camming de- where within the region of sea spray (which may extend well vices, take special care that the wire cables have been over and around the actual sea cliff in rough weather), it is thoroughly washed and dried. recommended that the following procedure be carried out: When dry - any hinges, movable joints, wires & cables etc. After finishing climbing for the day - keep the dry gear should be treated with a suitable aerosol lubricant, any sur- separate from the wet, and make sure it is kept away from plus wiped away, and the movement checked before storage. any damp ropes, slings and clothing etc – even to the point of carrying a drybag to store dry equipment. Any wet equip- Fatigue ment should be washed thoroughly in tap water or a fresh- water stream to remove all traces of salt, then after removal Whilst the maximum failure load is a concept central to all of surface water it should be hung out to dry. This should be engineering applications and their designs, another aspect done even if the plan is to climb again the following day. of equal concern is fatigue. Fatigue is well recognised by professional engineers in nearly all materials, but especially If you are travelling home - do not leave any metal equip- in metallic alloys since it affects the life span of a product. ment that may be contaminated with salt in a rucksack or If a load is applied that is lower than the stipulated failure other carry bag where it may come into contact with slings load of a particular piece of equipment, but is done so or ropes – especially in a warm environment - as this will repeatedly, then the piece may eventually fail. This process induce corrosion. If karabiners or camming devices are left is known as fatigue failure. Each load application is known like this for, say, a week, they will at the very least become as a cycle, and the less the load, the more cycles are re- discoloured and suffer surface corrosion. Within a few weeks, quired to cause a failure (if the load is small enough then a they could be so badly affected as to be unfit for further use failure will never happen) However in reality for climbing – a costly mistake! equipment, the load level over a sequence of cycles is not

38 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 38 11/02/2002, 11:15 AM How long is a lifetime? constant, and a sudden big load equalling the failure load will cause the piece to fail. The importance of fatigue effects implies the need to keep Because of all the variables that affect an item of equip- the amount of load to a reasonable level- well below the ment when it is used, it is almost never possible to give a failure load- and to avoid sudden large loads, thus prolonging definitive lifetime for equipment in use. In all cases, the the fatigue life of the item. The design of a piece of equipment owner needs to take into account everything they know re- should take fatigue into account in the following way: garding:

“The usual loads expected should be such that many The history of the equipment – has it been involved in any thousands of cycles are required before fatigue failure, long falls etc? and this should be beyond the expected usable lifetime The way in which it has been used – e.g. top-rope, lead of the product” rope? The general advice provided in the BMC Care & Mainte- However, if through exceptionally heavy or abnormal use nance booklet. too many cycles have been accumulated and failure is near, The manufacturers advice. then cracks in the highest stressed areas will be forming and Most importantly, the results of a visual and physical check growing. Hence, a close examination with a magnifying glass – which you should always carry out, every time the equip- on well-used equipment will be very worthwhile – a common ment is used. example is cracking at the base of the front points of well- used . In climbing terms, this means that reason- This may seem like a complex process, but in reality, much able use should attempt to avoid any chance of fatigue fail- of the calculation is done subconsciously, leading to the old ure by limiting the number and/or severity of the load cycles. general maxim: Examples of use that go against this are excessive torquing, or repeated hitting of hidden rocks under ice or hard, awk- If you think it may be time to replace an ward walking over rocks in crampons. Both secnarios will shorten the useful life of the equipment involved item of equipment - then it probably is! Wear The BMC Technical Committee Wear is a phenomenon that occurs when metallic surfaces are rubbed by other surfaces under pressure, and local shear stresses arise. Because of these, particles on the For thirty years the BMC Technical Committee has been surface are eroded, and the physical volume of material issuing safety advice and investigating occurrences of failed locally decreases. The higher the contact pressure and the equipment. Over that time a great body of knowledge has softer the material, the greater the rate of wear will be. been built up and many members of the committee have Sharp surface features (like edges and corners) will also been deeply involved with others in generating UIAA and EN erode quicker than smoother parts, because the stresses in standards for mountaineering equipment. This puts the BMC those features are higher under a rubbing force. For climb- in a unique position to offer members and non-members ing equipment, any contacting surfaces are liable to wear alike a range of services regarding technical matters: since most alloys in common use are relatively soft. The most usual high-pressure situation encountered in practice Regular news regarding equipment testing, design devel- is that of ropes passing through karabiners, abseiling and opments and recent failure investigations. belay devices etc. Grooves can appear in these items of metallic equipment, and since a noticeable groove repre- Authoritative advice on care and maintenance of climbing sents a new surface geometry with some material removed, equipment and good practice in its use direct from the of- the performance of these items will alter over time. This has fice. the further implication that the failure load and other design parameters of the item are changed, and a safe course of Investigations into gear failure. if you have a failure to action is to retire the piece of equipment once such a groove report, contact Stuart at the BMC office (0161 438 3329, has become noticeable. [email protected]) or download the report form at www.thebmc.co.uk/safety.htm

Stress degradation Access to the most knowledgeable body of professional Any piece of equipment that operates under applied loads volunteers working with climbing equipment in the UK! becomes subject to the effects of the stresses that result from those loads. Thus, any structure or component used in An extensive library of reports and documents relating to an engineering application becomes stressed during the nor- testing methods and historical failures. See website for cata- mal course of their intended operation, and metallic climbing logue. equipment is no exception to this. For instance, when a climber falls, the rope takes the climb- A series of advice booklets on specific items of equip- ers weight along with the harness, karabiners, slings and ment, e.g. Ropes, and Crampons. These detail selection, protection placed – all become stressed to a degree. The usage and maintenance. manufacturers design their equipment to withstand these stresses, but in conjunction with wear & tear and time, con- A yearly conference involving manufacturers, retailers, in- tinued stressing sometimes leads to a failure. For example structors and the public to discuss matters of current impor- (again!), crampon points and ice tools are subjected to con- tance. This year’s conference is scheduled for November. tinual and sometimes abnormal loading (as in torquing when ), which can sometimes be above and beyond In short, the Technical Committee exists to serve the climb- the intended design load. In some cases, this load is greater ing community by gathering accurate and up to date infor- than the equipment can sustain and failure results. mation from all over the globe and making it as easily avail- able as possible. Future developments will include elec- tronic conversion of the existing library, email newsletters (INSET) A grooved, worn karabiner. This can happen very and downloadable archives, as well as an increased output quickly in the right (wrong!) conditions, and it should be of articles and advice booklets. retired from active service. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 3 9

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 39 11/02/2002, 11:20 AM TECHNICAL

Cracking tures, materials exhibit a more ductile characteristic making The presence of cracks in any structure that is designed to sudden cracking much less likely. For the alloys used in carry load is potentially dangerous, but obviously so where climbing equipment, the transition temperature between this metallic climbing equipment is involved. Cracks can arise brittle and ductile behaviour occurs somewhere in the range for several reasons: -50ºC to +50ºC. The important factor for climbing equipment is that at cold During manufacture or heat-treatment of the equipment, extremes, it is more liable to brittle fracture, and prolonged commonly during welding processes – these are invariably use in these conditions increases the likelihood of this oc- detected at an early stage, or not critical to the intended curring (eg. during an expedition). Although a lot of care is performance of the equipment. taken to consider this during design and material choice, it is prudent to check regularly for cracks in equipment that is During a sudden overload when the failure load is exceeded used at cold temperatures for extended periods of time. and the item breaks – this is effectively the sudden initia- tion and catastrophic growth of a crack through the weakest Find out more partFriendly of the locals equipment. in Mozambique. Credit: Turnbull For further information on advice on how to Due to corrosion – see previous section. look after all your gear, consult the new edition By fatigue - as previously explained. Such a crack starts at of Care & Maintenance. a microscopically small size, growing as the fatigue life Published by the BMC progresses until it is big enough to be noticed by the naked this booklet is only £4 eye. In climbing equipment, this usually means that the to members and £6 to fatigue life is nearly at an end, and that a failure is immi- non-members, available nent. This is the reason for recommending regular inspec- from www.thebmc.co.uk tions of equipment both with the naked eye and with a or call 0870 010 4878. magnifying glass, and when such a crack is detected to Any technical or equip- retire the item immediately. Continued use of a cracked ment related queries, in- item will almost certainly lead rapidly to sudden failure – a cluding reports of fail- very dangerous situation. ures, may be related di- rectly to the BMC’s tech- Another relevant consideration when considering cracks is nical assistant Stuart the influence of temperature. If the temperature is low Ingram. Email him at enough, the brittleness of a material can increase signifi- [email protected]. cantly and any small cracks are liable to sudden and cata- strophic breaking, like shattering glass. At higher tempera-

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31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 40 11/02/2002, 11:20 AM

IYM

MOUNTAINS VITAL FOR BILLIONS The declaration of 2002 as the International Year of Mountains (IYM) by the UN General Assembly recognises that mountains are important not only to the millions of people who live in them, and those of us who like to visit them, but to the global community.

Martin Price from the Centre for Mountain Studies, Perth College explains more.

(MAIN) Island Peak. Credit: Tom Briggs / Jagged Globe. (RIGHT) The Mt Blanc Massif - mountains are not just important to visitors. Credit: Alastair Lee

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31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 42 11/02/2002, 11:22 AM Environmental activities during the IYM in the UK Most IYM events in the UK will have an en- vironmental theme - some emphasising conservation and management (such as the international People and Nature Con- ference in Pitlochry in November) and oth- ers considering the integration of different groups of mountain users with each other and the local communities (for example the BMC International Climbing Meeting at Plas y Brenin in May). The UK-wide National Outdoor Welcome (NOW) will run throughout the year, and is intended to encourage people back to the countryside after the devastating effects of FMD last year. The BMC will be organising a series of open days at climbing walls as part of this initiative, organised by the Outdoor Industries Association, Go-Outdoors. Cairngorms Partnership will host a gather- ll mountaineers know that, as we people may use oil or coal for power ing of the UK Association of National Parks go higher, it gets wetter and instead, adding more greenhouse Associations, as part of the lead in to the A colder. This can be a nuisance gases to the environment. establishment of the Cairngorms National when we are on the hill, but it is the One way to absorb greenhouse gases Park around the end of the year. As with reason that, at the global scale, the is to plant more trees, and the govern- the proposed launch of the Loch Lomond greatest importance of mountains ments of several developing countries and the Trossachs National Park in May comes from their role as ‘water tow- regard this as an opportunity to obtain - Scotland’s first national park - the central ers’ – all of the world’s major rivers payments from industrialised countries theme of managing mountain areas for the rise in them, and they provide between in the form of ‘carbon credits’. In other benefit of both people and nature under- a third and half of the available fresh- words, countries in the ‘North’ can burn pins the core objectives of IYM. water on Earth. It is not just the fact more fossil fuels, emitting more car- Another launch taking place in Scotland that more rain and snow falls on moun- bon, and pay countries in the ‘South’ during 2002 will be of particular interest to tains because they are higher that is to grow trees that will absorb this car- climbers and mountaineers. When the Ad- important; the colder conditions mean bon. From lowland capital cities, moun- venture Centre at Ratho just outside that there is less evaporation of what tain areas appear to be good places to Edinburgh open its doors in July, it will, in its does fall, and that a greater proportion plant such trees: they produce little of own words, aim “To promote environmental of the precipitation comes in the form economic value, and their people are care as a widely practised responsibility of snow, which remains until the spring. usually politically marginal. However, throughout all sports”. Especially for people living in dry parts the land identified for planting is often Finally, keep an eye out for internationally of the world, this storage is vital, as communal grazing land which is part of based events run from the UK, like the the water released by melting snow the intricate land use system from MCSA/KZN South African exchange becomes available in the lowlands just which mountain people gain their live- programmes in May and September, in- when it is most needed for agriculture: lihoods, balancing farming, forest use, tended to strengthen cultural links amongst 70% of the water taken from rivers and grazing. Plantations on the grazing climbers and trekkers (again see News this worldwide is used for irrigation. land mean that grazing animals have issue). And don’t forget to check out Sum- Some of the water coming down- less to eat, so that the balance of land mit magazine’s series of four special articles stream from the mountains is meltwa- uses is upset – and water flows from through the rest of the year celebrating the ter from glaciers. Unfortunately, some the hills also change. The governments great mountain areas of the world! of the best evidence that the Earth is gain carbon dollars; the mountain peo- For information on the UK’s IYM programme warming up comes from measurements ple are further marginalised. see www.iym.org.uk or check the worldwide showing that nearly all of the world’s One country from which many stories news at www.mountains2002.org. Regular glaciers are losing more of their mass about both economic marginalisation updates on BMC related events will appear each year than is being replaced by and environmental degradation have on the BMC website, and any queries can snowfall. Various types of evidence, come is . Some have mentioned be directed to [email protected] or 0161 from landscape paintings to ice cores, increasing soil erosion. Many tourists 438 3329. show that Alpine glaciers have lost half and journalists, as well as representa- of their mass in the past century. Other tives of development agencies, have figures underscore that this is a global commented on the erosion of terraces, fect control and never make mistakes. phenomenon: Mount Kilimanjaro has particularly from landslides during the Soil erosion is a problem in mountain lost 82% of its icecap since 1912; monsoon. This was interpreted as the areas around the world, sometimes Peru’s Qori Kalis glacier retreated 4 m result of inappropriate farming, due with important downstream effects. But each year in the 1960s and 1970s, mainly to the need to provide more it is risky to generalise, especially in but 30 m a year by the 1990s; and food for growing populations. Yet re- mountain areas, where conditions vary the thousands of glaciers in the Tien turn visits show maize growing on the greatly from one part of the world to Shan mountains between and terraces where the debris flow was. If another – and often almost as much Russia have lost 22% of their ice vol- you ask the farmers about the ‘dam- from one valley to another. One aim of ume in 40 years. In the short run, the age’, you may find out that it was not the IYM is to develop a better under- retreat of the glaciers will cause hydro- necessarily the result of negligence. In standing of both the similarities and dif- electric dams and reservoirs to be flush fact, farmers sometimes direct ferences between mountain areas – an with water. In the long run, many gla- monsoon water across terraces in or- essential component of its most im- ciers will disappear, with significant ef- der to make unproductive land more portant aim: to raise awareness of the fects on irrigation, domestic water useful for agriculture. This does not many ways in which a large proportion availability, recreation opportunities, mean that Nepalese mountain farm- of the global population depends on and power generation. To compensate, ers have their landscapes under per- mountain environments.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 4 3

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 43 11/02/2002, 11:23 AM TRAVEL

With the parties of Christmas fading and the British weather up to its usual tricks, it’s time to think about adventures for the SUMMITS year ahead. What follows is the first in a series of four articles celebrating the UN International Year of Mountains 2002. Here Stu Ingram kicks off with a selection of classic mountains - all with reasonable routes to the top, so why not celebrate the OF DESIRE Year of Mountains in style? Mt Taranaki's summit shadow being cast across the atmosphere. Mt Taranaki's Credit: Alastair Lee

Allt a’Mhuillinn from Achintree, the Ben Nevis distillery or 1344m the Golf Course car park The summit itself is full of interest with the emergency shel- BEN NEVIS, Scotland ter, ruined observatory, and one of the UK’s two permanent The Ben, as it is affectionately known is the grand old man snowfields residing in Gardyloo Gully (the story behind the of British mountains and is steeped in historical interest and gully’s name is less pleasant – there never was a flushing character. Still a forcing ground for modern winter climbs, toilet at the observatory!). However, it’s a treacherous place some of the most historic routes in the UK reside here such in bad weather and there have been many accidents involv- as Point Five Gully, Tower Ridge, and the Orion Face. From ing parties becoming lost on the descent. Make sure you motorbikes to pogo sticks, it’s seen it all, but as Britain’s know how to get off the mountain before you go up it; there highest mountain it is subject to extremes of weather out of is a detailed description on the back of the OS sheet men- all proportion to its modest size. The Ben can be a serious tioned below. Plan well and you will have a great day out, proposition, and every year, people get into difficulties hav- climb the highest point in the British Isles and see some of ing underestimated how quickly the Ben can turn from a the most impressive mountain terrain we have to offer. summer stroll into an Arctic fight for survival. The staging town is Fort William, well equipped with facili- ties, and from here it’s but a short way to the mountain 2518m itself. The voie normale goes up from the Glen Nevis Youth hostel, grinding its way up to the ‘Halfway Lochan’, which TARANAKI, North Island, NZ lies between Maell ant-Suidhe and Carn Dearg, before veer- Mt. Taranaki is one of a unique group of volcanic cones ing right (south), crossing the red burn and zig-zagging up found bordering the pacific plate, geologically referred to as long scree slopes to the summit plateau. When not covered the ‘Ring of Fire’. This beautiful symmetrical cone has that in snow or eager hordes of summit baggers, 3-4 hours should classic appearance like Mt. Fuji (3776m) in Japan, Mt put you on the summit. A more adventurous approach is to Slamet (3428m) in Java and the lesser known Klyuchevsk walk down the “mule -track” after scrambling up the stun- Volcano (4750m) in Siberia. But what makes this popular ning Carn Mor Dearg arête. This involves some mild and peak so special? Although Mt Taranaki’s modest height exposed scrambling on a rocky ridge crest, and under condi- doesn’t quite match the height of its Russian and Japanese tions of snow and ice should definitely be considered moun- relations it’s the breathtaking exposure and vertical scale taineering! It will also add to your journey time considerably that makes this mountain so appealing. Surrounded by the – unless you are superman look for a 10hr+ round trip from sea on three sides, poking from New Zealand’s West Coast the youth hostel for this one! Or you could also start via the into the prevailing ‘Roaring Forties’ of the Southern Ocean,

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the summit of this mountain is an extraordinary place, it made the first ascent by what is still the normal route on 29 feels like the edge of the world. September 1889, finding a “gigantic crater with precipitous There’s a visitor’s centre on the North Side of the moun- walls, occupying the entire summit of the mountain” – the tain. From there an hour or so up ‘The Puffer’ gets you to now familiar crater rim. Kili lies wholly within a beautiful Na- the Tahurangi Lodge (a well-facilitated private alpine hut) tional Park, and ascensionists will experience wildly varying and the round the mountain track. For the less ambitious terrain from rainforest, through alpine meadow, to the sum- hiker a few hours in the westerly direction from here will mit snows. Time your climb well and you will be one of those satisfy your needs. The path cuts through unique snowgrass lucky enough to witness the dawn over the “roof of Africa” – and herbfields and hopefully gives impressive views over an awesome experience by any standards! But watch out, the surrounding pastoral lands. For the fitter and more legend has it that a couple who witness this dawn together experienced hiker the North Ridge Summit Track will be of will be partners for life… interest. Although effectively this is nothing more than a The normal (Marangu) route is easily approached from Dar- steep hike, be warned, its long, tiring, and at the mercy of es-Salaam, Kilimanjaro International Airport or Zanzibar com- very fickle conditions and is only marked by poles on the bined with an overland approach to the mountain. The route upper section. Every year poorly equipped tourists run into is basically high altitude walking, but again the altitude (in difficulties, so take the right kit and don’t become a statis- combination with the particular lack of freshwater) is a seri- tic. In winter the upper slopes provide some great ice and ous consideration. There are fatal cases of AMS each year, winter climbing and on the south-east side there’s a touch so acclimatise well and don’t be afraid to turn back – the of skiing. In summer there’s loads of superb cragging on mountain isn’t going anywhere! The ascent from the Kibo hut some of the hardest rock in the country. Lovely clean Andesite at 4700m can be completed in a long day (1.00am start is forms towers and long columnar cracks. At around 1500m de rigeur) by most although there are several tiring and steep the cragging retains a strong alpine feel too. sections, particularly the switchbacks to Gillman’s point be- fore you reach the highest point at Uhuru Peak. Kili is another mountain that is beginning to suffer from its 4807m popularity, with over 10,000 visitors to the park each year. Currently, you can only make an ascent with a recognised , France/Italy trekking company (independent climbers are often removed Formerly the highest summit in Europe, until the inclusion at gunpoint), but this has the advantage that they will sort of Mt. Elbrus in the Caucasus after the dissolution of the out park fees, hut accommodation and transport for you – former Soviet Union, Mt. Blanc still exerts a powerful allure US$400-700 is normal for a 5-6 day package. There are over mountaineers worldwide. First Ascended by Jacques plenty of reputable local operators, or just leave it up to a Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard on the 8th August 1786 UK based company. Some of them tackle Kili by the quieter (check the statue in Cham town centre!), the mountain has and more challenging scrambling routes such as the Umbwe consistently been a focus for pushing achievement in the route, followed by the Western Breach. Alpine arena. This is still the case with today’s top climbers Kili benefits from a relatively stable tropical climate, with cranking out speed ascents and picking off eliminate lines regular rainy seasons, and periods of settled weather. The of extreme difficulty. Thousands make the trip to Chamonix best times to visit are January-February and August-Octo- each year with the hope of an ascent of the technically ber; whilst December is also good - what a way to spend easy but immensely enjoyable voies normale - the magnifi- Christmas Day. cent scenery and final exposed summit ridge making this perhaps the finest snow route in the Alps. However, the mountain is long, cold and exposed (-15ºC plus windchill is 6310m the norm), so take plenty of water, snacks, insulation and most importantly windproofs and sunscreen. Work to a proper CHIMBORAZO, Ecuador programme of acclimatisation, and don’t be afraid to turn Chimborazo, an extinct volcano in central Ecuador, enjoys back should the meteo promise of beau temps turn out to classic status for a number of reasons, not least because be a little optimistic! when measured from the centre of the earth (rather than There are two basic route choices from Chamonix, via the sea level) it is the highest mountain in the world! This strange Gouter or Grands Muletshut (book these months in ad- fact is due to Chimborazo being very near the equator, and vance to avoid a cold bivi!). Both routes are graded PD as due to the fact that the earth is not really round but is the Gouter route necessitates crossing the dangerous actually an oblate spheroid with a radius that is consider- “Grand Couloir” with its constant stonefall, and is continu- ably larger at the equator than at the poles. Another curious ally exposed to wind. The Grand Mulets is traditionally the fact about the mountain is that for a while in the 17th and most reliable route to the summit, being more sheltered 18th centuries it was thought to be the world’s highest than the Gouter, but the ascent to the Col du Dome can be mountain. Like Aconcagua (see later) it is a mountain which rather tedious, with long snow slopes broken by , once held the height record for Europeans. In 1802 and exposure to falling seracs. July and August are the best Humboldt a German scientific explorer, reached an altitude times to go, but of course everyone in the world knows this! of about 5600m on Chimborazo, the highest any European Look for a two-day window of clear weather and low had climbed at that time. windspeed at altitude and you will soon have one of the However you measure it Chimborazo is the highest peak most recognised summits in the world under your belt, and in Ecuador at 6310m or 20,697ft. It is a massive moun- some memories to last a lifetime! tain, with an extensive and featureless summit plateau, and many subsidiary summits. It was first climbed in 1880 by , the famous English alpinist, accompa- 5869m nied by two Italian guides, the Carrel cousins. This ascent, together with his other pioneering climbs in Ecuador, is de- KILIMANJARO, Tanzania scribed in his classic book ‘Travels Amongst the Great An- Mount Kilimanjaro lies just south of the equator is the high- des of the Equator,’ published in 1892. est mountain in Africa and one of the highest volcanoes in Because of its accessibility Chimborazo is a popular peak. the world. With a basal diameter of 40miles it’s “wide as all The normal route lies on the southwest side of the main the world, great, high and unbelievably white as the sun” - summit and is a long climb up glaciers from the Whymper (Hemingway). The leading German Geographer Hans Meyer hut at 5000m. For many years it was a very straightforward

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climb, but in recent years dramatic glacial retreat has in- 100m snow and ice slope (40°) up onto the ridge which is creased the difficulty and danger of this route a wee bit. followed in a spectacular position to the summit. Once on Apart from the altitude there have always been some ob- top, you can revel in one of the most awe-inspiring summit jective dangers associated with climbing Chimborazo, there views you are ever likely to see! The route is about alpine are large crevasses, a very flat summit area prone to cloud, grade PD+ i.e. noticeably more technical than the other and sometimes high avalanche risk due to snowfall or peaks in this article, so be prepared. windslab. There are two huts on the normal route - the Island peak can be climbed pre or post monsoon (Febru- Carrel hut at the road end at 4800m and the Whymper hut ary – April or October-November), and December may also a little higher at 5000m. The summit climb takes 10-12 give clear if very cold weather. The peak fee starts at hours, and due to frequent early cloud cover it is a good US$350 for up to 4 people and the Everest National Park idea to leave the Whymper hut at about 10pm, and climb Fee of NRs650 (about £6.50) also applies. through the night to arrive on the summit soon after dawn. Many other routes have been done on the peak, both by foreign and Ecuadorean mountaineers. Chimborazo can be climbed anytime from June to Janu- 6959m ary. Bad weather (mainly cloud and snow) can occur at any time in this period. Some experts reckon that the periods ACONCAGUA, Argentina around Christmas and in July and August appear to offer At a height of 6959m or 22,826ft, Aconcagua is the high- the best chances of good weather. Quito has an interna- est peak in South America and indeed the highest in the tional airport and can be reached from the UK via the United world outside the greater Himalaya. It lies in the southern States, Madrid or Amsterdam. half of the Andes, entirely in Argentina but only a short distance from the main crest of the Andes and the Chilean frontier. When it was first climbed in 1897 by Matthias Zurbriggen 6189m it was the highest peak in the world to have been climbed to that date. However since then various archaeological ISLAND PEAK (IMJA TSE), Nepal finds have been made high on the mountain which indicate Island Peak is one of the highest and certainly one of the it may have been first climbed at the time of the Inca Em- most popular of the designated “trekking peaks” in Nepal, pire (c.1500 AD) when many high peaks in the Andes were with literally hundreds of people making the summit each ascended for religious worship. year. The beautiful profile of the mountain and stunning The route of Zurbriggens ascent is now the normal route views of , , and Ama Dablam, com- on Aconcagua and a very popular climb due to the moun- bined with its ease of access and pleasant, sunny approach tain's reputation as the highest peak in the world which is makes it an essential tick in any high-altitude trekkers list. just a walk up. From Puente del Inca most parties take ten The mountain was first “discovered” and named by the to twelve days to climb the mountain via the dusty Horcones famous Brit Eric Shipton in 1952, and first climbed the valley and paths up the Northwest rib. Although just a walk following year by Evans, Gregory, Wylie and Tenzing Norgay for mountaineers, Aconcagua is certainly not a walk for the in preparation for their (successful) Everest bid. Imja Tse inexperienced and should not be underestimated. Every was the peak that they perfected their oxygen systems on year many climbers suffer problems on the normal route before going for it on the big hill. Nowadays, any number of due to the extreme altitude and frequent severe weather commercial companies will guide you up its slopes (for an and there are few years without fatalities. About 80% of appropriate fee, of course), or if you have the experience people who buy a permit fail to reach the summit, usually and are suitably acclimatised and equipped, it makes a due to the weather, poor expedition planning and skills or wonderful adventure to ascend the peak by your own means. lack of fitness. Base Camp at Pareshaya Gab (5078m) is reached in two The only other popular route on Aconcagua is the Polish easy days from Dingboche, itself just 2 short days up the Glacier on the eastern side of the mountain, a relatively Khumbu Valley from Namche Bazaar. It is always a very straightforward snow climb which was first done in 1934. busy place, so remember to chill out and admire the spec- The first ascent of the huge and dramatic south face was tacular situation and scenery as you compete for tent pitches made by a French expedition in 1954. with other climbers! After heavy snowfall, the slopes herea- Aconcagua is best climbed in the southern hemisphere bouts can be avalanche prone, so take care on the ascent. summer, from November to March. Permits are needed to Around 1.5hrs climb above Pareshaya are the rocky tent climb; these are expensive in high season (up to $200) platforms of the high camp at 5700m. After a night here but are readily available in Mendoza. Several companies in you climb a rocky gully (grade 1 scrambling) and several this pleasant Argentine city also offer mule services for the short rock steps, before emerging at the top and traversing walk to base camp and run guided expeditions. Mendoza onto a ridge. This is followed in an exhilarating and exposed has an international airport and can be reached from the position to the snout of the summit glacier. The glacier con- UK via either Santiago, Buenos Aires or Sao Paulo. tains several crevasses, but leads, relatively easily to a Get THE Book! If you're planning a trek or expedi- tion, get hold of the new Mountain Traveller's Handbook. This full col- our, pocket size book spills the beans on every aspect of the per- fect trip. From essential equipment tips and medical advice to moun- tain photograhy, it's all here. Priced just £13 (£11.50 to members) it's one thing you can't afford to leave behind! Phone 0870 010 4878 to order now, visit www.thebmc.co.uk, Island Peak. Credit Tom Briggs / Jagged Globe or look out for it in all good shops. 46 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

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Ben Nevis Ben Nevis by Crockett. SMC. A great coffee table issue 100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains, Storer Scottish Peaks, Poucher Mountains 1:25000 OS Outdoor Leisure 38, Ben Nevis Mountainmaster 1:25000 Harvey’s Superwalker (Ben Nevis) Taranaki 01556 503929 Climbers Guide to Taranaki, Ross Eden. (2nd ed. Due 2002) Classic Walks of New Zealand, Craig Potton [email protected] 1:50,000 Egmont Parkmap, Department of Conservation Andes Mont Blanc For the best information on CLIMBING any mountain activities in the The Alpine Club Guides, Griffin (Volumes 1 & 2) give detail MOUNTAINEERING 100 Finest Routes, Rebuffat provides coffee-table motivation Andes...... visit our website Carte IGN Blue series sheets 3531ET & 3630OT TREKKING Kilimanjaro SKIING + SKI-TOURING www.andes.org.uk Kilimanjaro & Mt. Kenya, Burns GUIDEBOOKS Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro, Allan, Mountain Club of Kenya MAP LIBRARY or phone or email us for a 1:50,000 Map & Guide to Kilimanjaro, Savage INFORMATION brochure, advice or a chat 1:100,000 Special Edition - Director of Overseas surveys 1978 Chimborazo Ecuador – a climbing guide, Yossi Brain The Andes - A Guide for Climbers, John Biggar Maps at 1:50,000 available in Quito, but are of little use Island Peak Trekking & Climbing in Nepal, Razzetti The Trekking Peaks of Nepal, O’Connor) Schneider’s expensive but detailed 1:50,000 range covers the entire trekking region of Nepal 1:50000 Mandala Maps are locally available but not as detailed Aconcagua Aconcagua, Secor, covers only the mountain but in some detail and with very useful aerial photos The Andes - A Guide for Climbers, Biggar, covers the entire Andes The few maps available are of little use in reaching the summit Insurance Once you leave the UK, it’s essential to have the best insur- ance cover. BMC insurance will cover you from the taxi ride to the airport all the way to the summit and back to your doorstep, with an unbeatable combination of benefits and terra firma value for money. See page 26 for more details, and take out online at www.thebmc.co.uk the trekking peaks for 02/03: best climbing • volcanoes of ecuador 8 inc. cotopaxi & chimborazo Thanks & Further Information on • aconcagua earth • mera peak John Biggar • khumbu peaks John runs Andes, Britain’s only specialist operator of trek- inc. lobuche east & island peak king, climbing, mountaineering, skiing and biking expedi- brochure anytime: • kilimanjaro tions to South America. They also publish the only compre- • stok hensive climbing and trekking guidebooks to the Andes. 020 8943 3065 kangri www.andes.org.uk [email protected] www.terrafirmatravel.com Alastair Lee Alastair is a climber, photographer and performer currently touring with his new show Made in China. HIMALAYA, AFRICA, www.posingproductions.com ACONCAGUA BEST VALUE FOR MONEY Tom Briggs / Jagged Globe climb with Daniel Mazur, Jagged Globe run expeditions to peaks on every continent Amadablam, , of the globe, as well as courses in Scotland and the Alps. 7000m snowpeaks, EVEREST, 2002 is their 15th year of operation. Cho-oyu, , www.jaggedglobe.co.uk KILIMANJARO-TREK, Kenya rockclimb, visit our new web site: Tim Neil, Plas y Brenin Plas y Brenin run training courses for all aspects of climbing, www.summitclimb.com mountaineering, and hillwalking. Email us: www.pyb.co.uk [email protected] 01179 087954 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 4 7

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ARENA Management Committee Summary 2001 Annual Report and Accounts For the 12th Dec. 2001. Updates were given on the Na- The Annual Report and Accounts for 2001 are automati- tional Exhibition of Mountaineering and the Guidebook Pro- cally sent to affiliated clubs and volunteers on specialist gramme. Niall Grimes was welcomed as Guidebook Produc- and area committees. Individual members can obtain a copy tion Co-ordinator. The latest position on FMD and the BMC’s by returning the pre-paid request post card enclosed in this involvement in the Rural Task Force and Rural Affairs Forum issue of Summit or download as a pdf from the BMC website. for England were reported. An update was given on the latest position of MSLLP. Andy MacNae was congratulated on his appointment as Chief Executive and a partnership Hut News agreement was now in place between all 9 home nation The date of the BMC Huts Seminar has been changed to th and UK mountaineering councils and training boards. Dave Saturday 19 October 2002, the venue is still Plas y Brenin. Turnbull was congratulated on his appointment as Chief Of- Once again details are available from the office. ficer of the BMC. It was reported that Dave would officially Due to the retirement of their respective Booking Secre- take up his post from 1st January 2002. tary’s both the Hut and the Alex MacIntyre General and Specific Organisational Structure Working Memorial Hut are looking for new people to fill these posi- Group recommendations were adopted pending amend- tions. Details are what is involved are available from ments to be made following discussions at the meeting. [email protected] or from the office. The BMC would Roger Payne explained that because of personal circum- like to say a very big thank you to Dave Brown (Whillans stances Iain Blair, BMC Financial Controller had resigned. Hut) and Brent Eggo (AMMH) for all of their time and effort The Finance Committee had advised the acceptance of his over the years. resignation. The nominations committee put forward a list of names of potential Vice President nominees: John Mason, Tut Area Meetings Calendar 2002 Braithwaite, Kate Phillips, Alan Hinkes, Airlie Anderson and Gordon Adshead. Dave Musgrove has indicated that he is willing to stand as a successor to Derek Walker as President. Two new club mem- bership applications were accepted: the Duke of Edinburgh Society University of Nottingham Union (Midlands) and the Ply- mouth Primary Schools Climbing Club (South West & Southern). The next Man- agement Committee meeting is on 9 Feb- ruary 2002 at Plas y Brenin. Now Only 95 SALESALE £17. (INC.(INC. P+PP+P UK)UK) ORDER YOUR COPY NOW! ...CALL TODAY! to receive your copy of this fantastic calendar, which incorporates stunning photos from the world’s best photographers.

OVERSEAS ORDERS PLEASE ADD P+P £5.00 – EUROPE £10 – ROW Return order form to: Klettern 2002, GreenShires, Freepost MID17378, Telford Way, Kettering, Northants NN16 8UN. Cheques payable to GreenShires Publishing. Please send me ______Klettern 2002 Calendar/s at £17.95 each (inc. P+P UK) I enclose a cheque/postal orders for £ ______Charge my:- Visa Mastercard Switch (Issue no.______). Card No.: Expiry date:

After the disappointment of missing Rock 2001, we are Cardholder Name: delighted to bring you the brand new Klettern 2002 Calendar. Address: Utilising the same large format this unique poster set will occupy pride of place on any climber’s wall. CREDIT CARD HOTLINE 01536 382563 50 Postcode:BMC SUMMIT Tel No.: - ISSUE 25 GREENSHIRES, FREEPOST MID17378, TELFORD WAY, KETTERING, NORTHANTS NN16 8UN

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BRIEFING

Quarry on March 23rd with old ropes, abseil gear, protec- The Science & Technology of Climbing tive gloves, lump hammers, spades, secateurs, rubbish sacks nd The 2 International conference on the Science & Technol- etc. and take part in the grand clean up. The cleanup day ogy in Climbing and Mountaineering is being organised by is being organised by Markfield Quarry Coordinating Group. Leeds University. Topics will include: Physiology, Sports in- Email [email protected] more info. jury & medicine, Biomechanics, Equipment design, Textiles & clothing, Climbing safety, Climbing wall design, Coaching & training, Navigation & electronics and Environmental fac- MLTB Workshops and Seminars tors/impact. Papers and posters are also invited on any The following MLTB workshops and seminars are planned other aspect of technology applied to climbing and moun- for early 2002. For more information contact the MLTB. taineering. The conference will take place over 3 days with ML Award Holder seminars (1 day. £30) a number of international keynote speakers and with scien- Sat. 15th June Pendarren House, South Wales tific presentations in both plenary and parallel sessions. ML Award Holder seminars (2 day. £110) See the conference website at www.leeds.ac.uk/ 6th/7th Apr Plas y Brenin sports_science/conference/climb2002/index.htm for full 10th/11th June Plas y Brenin details of this major event. SPA Holder seminars (1 day. £30) Sat 13th May Thornbridge, Peak Disability Awareness Workshops (1 day. £40) Peak Guides – Open Meeting Mon 25th Mar Kendal There will be an open guidebook meeting for anyone with Teaching & Coaching in the Mountains (2 day. £110) an interest in Peak District guidebooks, on the 4th March at 16th/17th March Plas y Brenin the Norfolk Arms, Ringinglow at 7:30pm. So come along 17th/18th June Plas y Brenin and have your say – rant about grades, stars, bouldering mats, or anything else you want to make a noise about. No guns please. The BMC are also looking for good slides for Last Call for South African Exchange! forthcoming publications covering Staffordshire and the We are still inviting applications for the South African ex- Kinder / Bleaklow areas. For more information on these and change. This event is open to any dedicated climber or other guidebook matters, contact Niall Grimes at the BMC trekker regardless of ability, and is a great opportunity to office – [email protected], 0161 438 3301. foster stronger international links within our sport, as well as have the time of your life. Dates are 3-11th May (climbing) and 6-14th September (trekking). The Kwa-Zulu section of Markfield Quarry Cleanup Day the MCSA is generously offering hospitality, so all you have Start the new climbing season with a bang, and a clatter to worry about is getting there and the BMC International and a chop, and a scrape! If you’d like to see Markfield Committee will also provide a £100 bursary to each of the quarry gain some good belay stakes, remove loose rock successful applicants. Please apply direct via post or email after the winter’s frosts and get rid of much of the gorse to Stuart Ingram ([email protected]) with an activity CV, choking some of the routes read on. Turn up at Markfield by 15th March (climbing) and 15th July (trekking).

▼ HND Sports Science (Outdoor Activities/ SALE Marine Pursuits/ Adventure Management) £10.95 ▼ BSc/HND Coastal Zone & inc. p+p Marine Environment Studies Y UK ONL ▼ BSc Sail & Powerboat Studies ▼ HND Leisure Boat Design ▼ HND Marine Studies (Professional Crew/Skipper) CALL OUR CREDIT CARD HOTLINE ... in Britain’s only coastal 01536 382563 national park Courses in Overseas please add: £4.00 - Europe; £8.00 - RoW conjunction with Freephone PLEASE SEND ME ...... COPY/IES OF THE 2002 CLIMBING CALENDAR @ £10.95 (inc. p+p - UK only) 0800 716 236 for details NAME ...... www.pembrokeshire.ac.uk ADDRESS ...... Over 70 other ...... courses available POSTCODE...... TEL: ...... Payment details: Card No: Expiry date: / Visa Mastercard Switch (Issue No...... ) Return to: 52GreenShires Publishing, Telford Way Ind. Est., Kettering, Northants. NN16 8UN BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

31465_SUMMIT_25.p65 52 13/02/2002, 12:20 PM MLTB

The Quality of Mountain Days At the MLTB we have always taken the view that it is not so much the ability to perform a certain number of tasks and demonstrate a certain number of skills that make a competent and skilled leader as the sum total of what that person has done. We are big on experience. That is why all candidates have to complete as thorough a record of their experiences on the hills and crags as possible. This helps the training process in that the programme can be adapted to suit the competen- cies that the candidates already have and the trainers can tailor their suggestions for further experience in the light of what has gone before. One of the FAQ’s we deal with at the MLTB concerns the phrase “quality mountain days” which crops up when we ask the candidate to show us what they've done. So just what is a “quality mountain day”?

The rough with the smooth Do all your trips and routes go to plan? Does everything run smoothly? The sun always shine? The rock feel dry and full of DEFY GRAVITY friction? You never get lost? Never drop your rack off pitch three? Never watch your map blow away into the distance? Hey! This is all “quality”. This is what memories are made of and is also what makes for a steeper learning curve than normal. No-one is perfect and if you are out there actually having adventures and learning, then things will go slightly awry sometimes. We all get lost; we all fall off; we all retreat. The crucial thing is to learn from the experience; to get older and wiser.

Reading between the lines When a log book full of experience is handed in, or when you simply talk to candidates on an MLTB course there are two possible ways of responding to the odd tale of daring. Those candidates who never go out without an epic, whose log book reads like a potted version of a Joe Simpson expe- dition set off alarm bells. Why does this happen? To them? All the time? The average MLTB assessor will have some questions to ask. Conversely there are some log books where the admis- Large adze sion that the candidate failed to reach their objective be- cause of high winds and an incoming storm does not pro- duce any derision in the reader. Failure is a great teacher and the average assessor will have respect for someone who tried, thought about it, and did the right thing.

Bad day: good day So a “quality mountain day” can be a lousy day. You don’t Small adze get what you thought you were going to get in terms of the typical “pleasure” experience that we often seek. But you still got experience! And it is the experience at the wilder margins of most forms of mountaineering that enable you to cope with difficulties later on. Not only have you learned from the specifics of your personal epic but you have also learned that it is possible for you to cope in more general terms. That makes you calmer, more likely to think rationally and better equipped to improvise solutions. And at the MLTB Alpine pick we are not so much concerned with what a good all-rounder you have turned out to be; we are concerned with what a 45 good leader you might be. If you can turn that quality moun- 50

tain experience you have acquired into a capacity to cope 55 shaft cranked

with not only personal difficulties but also with the care of a shaft straight 60 CE0082 group then you are going through a valuable process. It is 65 quite difficult navigating across a hill in a white out; but a cm T skilled leader can do it with half a brain, whilst the other half monitors, cheers, cajoles, cares for and motivates the group Also available with a straight shaft and carries out ongoing risk assessments and evolves chang- FULLY MODULAR SYSTEM ing contingency plans to cope with changing circumstances. Superhuman? No, just quality. VERTIGE ALPINIST So a quality mountain day is one that pulls out the quali- ties of the participant in terms of involvement, enjoyment Old Ferry Road, Onich, Inverness-shire, Scotland PH33 6SA and challenge. It is also one that develops the qualities that Tel +44 (0)1855 821 222, Fax +44 (0)1855 821 424 go to make up a good leader. www.mountaintechnology.co.uk BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 5 3

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LAST THOUGHTS PLAYING BY THE RULES

A view by Andy Stewart

t has struck me that anyone with a grudge against climb- This year I walked away disappointed after trying a new ers could quite easily spoil their fun. It doesn’t need a route and discovering that it lacked a couple of crucial holds. Ihammer and chisel or a wire brush with six-inch nails The rock was blank, but it occurred to me that if I banged a stuck in it. I remember a conflict with bikers that led to a peg into a weathered seam I could prise out a lump of favourite quarry traverse being smeared with grease. Fif- detached rock to create a hold. The route would have been teen years later the traverse is almost as slippery in places, quite spectacular. I walked away disgruntled, torn between but this time it’s the relentless passage of feet that has wanting to profit from the investment of time and energy, done the damage. In an era of access for all, to suggest and on the other hand respecting the consensus opinion of otherwise would be at best undemocratic, and at worst elit- what is cricket and what is not. I had committed nothing ist and arrogant. It’s not unreasonable to assume though more than a thought crime. But the potential desecration of that this freedom will simply attract desirable like-minded an obscure, unclimbed quarry wall pales into insignificance individuals to the sport. Increasingly our freedoms are man- with the heresy of altering an established route, especially aged for our own benefit, and the BMC works hard to rep- on god’s own gritstone. Changing a way up rock architecture resent what is basically a fairly anarchic bunch of individu- lovingly created by natural processes rather than explosives. alists doing their own thing. Now that beggars belief!

It’s the flouting of the code of ethics by a minority of There’s a crucial issue of discretion regarding how we treat insensitive individuals that provokes outrage amongst those the medium we like to cling to so tenaciously. Wire brushing who play by the rules. Many of us have been incensed at in itself is not the problem. Some areas require wire brush- one time or other when a piece of rock has been ‘ruined’. ing just to make boulder problems or harder routes possi- The rules of the game can seem arbitrary to an outsider. ble- Wimberry or Kinder Northern Edges for example. Softer I’ve never seen these rules written down though, and I grit in other areas won’t stand this kind of treatment. Once think they are probably acquired by some form of osmosis. the hard surface layer has been removed the rock beneath They change over time, and some would say that they have can become very sandy and easily eroded. There is the evolved to reflect a purer ethic relative to what has gone thorny issue of sustainability, which is easier to ignore than before. Look at the peg scarred cracks, which now go free, to address. With a marked increase in numbers over recent or the rusting dodgy aid bolts which protect some gritstone years, what will become of the most popular routes and routes such as Berlin Wall. Ultimately it’s about respect for problems in ten or twenty years? Admittedly no one wears others that reins in our anarchic tendencies. Or maybe it’s nailed boots these days, but many of us like to push the conformity and fear of upsetting the status quo? I might limits of friction on smears and tiny edges. What have we to even hope that it’s an increasing environmental awareness look forward to other than polished, tired venues? On the and a sense of responsibility or stewardship. positive side there is an increasing recognition of the con- sequences of over-use. We now have resin coated holds at Those who choose to break the mould tread a tightrope the Bridestones. Bouldering mats seem to be doing a good between being labeled visionaries or vandals. Controversy job by allowing vegetation to thrive at the bottom of popular comes with the territory, but they have at times shown the problems. way beyond an obvious impasse. Who can honestly say that they have never enjoyed doing a sports climb? Being This is a far cry from the anger of seeing a favourite boul- realistic, a proportion of new routes have always been der problem vandalised by someone who either doesn’t or chipped and probably always will be. I’ve enjoyed climbing should know better. The reaction might be just as strong some of them, downhill Racer being a notable example. from a nature loving dog walker seeing the results of heavy- They occupy a spectrum from the blatantly vandalised to handed pruning at Woodhouse Scar. Whose sensibilities the artistically altered, being a reflection of the obsessive- are more important at the end of the day? We all make an ness that climbing sometimes engenders. impact and maybe we should aim to tread lightly (if you will forgive the pun) as a guiding principle. (TOP) Jim Graham, Den Lane Quarry. Credit: Alex Messenger 62 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25

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