Experience the Thrill of Heights
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Firestarters Summits of Desire Visionaries & Vandals
31465_Cover 12/2/02 9:59 am Page 2 ISSUE 25 - SPRING 2002 £2.50 Firestarters Choosing a Stove Summits of Desire International Year of Mountains FESTIVAL OF CLIMBING Visionaries & Vandals SKI-MOUNTAINEERING Grit Under Attack GUIDEBOOKS - THE FUTURE TUPLILAK • LEADERSHIP • METALLIC EQUIPMENT • NUTRITION FOREWORD... NEW SUMMITS s the new BMC Chief Officer, writing my first ever Summit Aforeword has been a strangely traumatic experience. After 5 years as BMC Access Officer - suddenly my head is on the block. Do I set out my vision for the future of the BMC or comment on the changing face of British climbing? Do I talk about the threats to the cliff and mountain envi- ronment and the challenges of new access legislation? How about the lessons learnt from foot and mouth disease or September 11th and the recent four fold hike in climbing wall insurance premiums? Big issues I’m sure you’ll agree - but for this edition I going to keep it simple and say a few words about the single most important thing which makes the BMC tick - volunteer involvement. Dave Turnbull - The new BMC Chief Officer Since its establishment in 1944 the BMC has relied heavily on volunteers and today the skills, experience and enthusi- District meetings spearheaded by John Horscroft and team asm that the many 100s of volunteers contribute to climb- are pointing the way forward on this front. These have turned ing and hill walking in the UK is immense. For years, stal- into real social occasions with lively debates on everything warts in the BMC’s guidebook team has churned out quality from bolts to birds, with attendances of up to 60 people guidebooks such as Chatsworth and On Peak Rock and the and lively slideshows to round off the evenings - long may BMC is firmly committed to getting this important Commit- they continue. -
Passive Protection Protection Passive Passive Sicherungen
A chaque fois que vous réformez une pièce de matériel, détruisez- „Verkeilt“ sich die Sicherung, ist die Gefahr geringer, dass sie FRANÇAIS la pour empêcher toute utilisation ultérieure. sich bei Seilzug lockert oder gar herausfällt. NOTICE D’UTILISATION ◆ Zum Entfernen eines Stopper oder Hex aus einem Riss benötigen STOPPERS ET HEXENTRICS D’OCCASION Sie eventuell ein Nut Tool. Vermeiden Sie es, das Kabel häufig North America: Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. Nous déconseillons vivement l’utilisation de matériel d’occasion. stark zu verbiegen, da es hierbei übermässig belastet wird und 2084 East 3900 South Salt Lake City, UT 84124 AVERTISSEMENT Vous devez connaître les antécédents de votre matériel afin de schliesslich brechen kann. Phone: (801) 278-5533, Fax: (801) 278-5544 Pour l’escalade et l’alpinisme uniquement. pouvoir juger de sa fiabilité. Email: [email protected] L’escalade et l’alpinisme sont des activités EN 12270 : Les Stoppers, Micro Stoppers, Micro Stoppers Offset et Europe: Black Diamond Equipment AG ! Verwenden Sie zum Einhängen in das Kabel immer einen Hexentrics Black Diamond sont conformes à la norme européenne Christoph Merian Ring 7 4153 Reinach, Switzerland dangereuses. Vous devez comprendre et accepter Karabiner. Fädeln Sie niemals Gurtband oder Seil direkt durch EN 12270 relative à l’équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade – Phone: +41/61 564 33 33, Fax: +41/61 564 33 34 les risques encourus avant de vous engager. Les ein Stopper- oder Hexentric-Kabel. Coinceurs – Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d’essai. Email: [email protected] mineurs et autres personnes dans l’incapacité ! Vermeiden Sie bei der Platzierung von Sicherungen, dass das Asia: Black Diamond Equipment Asia d’assumer cette responsabilité doivent pratiquer MARQUAGES Kabel bei Belastung über scharfe Kanten läuft. -
2010 Metolius Climbing 2
2010 METOLIUS CLIMBING 2 It’s shocking to think that it’s been twenty-five years since we cranked up the Metolius Climbing machine, and 2010 marks our 25th consecutive year in business! Wow! Getting our start in Doug Phillips’ tiny garage near the headwaters of the Metolius River (from where we take our name), none of us could have envisioned where climbing would be in 25 years or that we would even still be in the business of making climbing gear. In the 1980s, the choices one had for climbing equipment were fairly limited & much of the gear then was un-tested, uncomfortable, inadequate or unavailable. Many solved this problem by making their own equipment, the Metolius crew included. 3 (1) Smith Rock, Oregon ~ 1985 Mad cranker Kim Carrigan seen here making Much has changed in the last 2 ½ decades since we rolled out our first products. The expansion we’ve seen has been mind-blowing the 2nd ascent of Latest Rage. Joined by fellow Aussie Geoff Wiegand & the British hardman Jonny Woodward, this was one of the first international crews to arrive at Smith and tear the and what a journey it’s been. The climbing life is so full of rich and rewarding experiences that it really becomes the perfect place up. The lads made many early repeats in the dihedrals that year. These were the days metaphor for life, with its triumphs and tragedies, hard-fought battles, whether won or lost, and continuous learning and growing. when 5.12 was considered cutting edge and many of these routes were projected and a few of Over time, we’ve come to figure out what our mission is and how we fit into the big picture. -
081D 12/04 • Courses and Events • National Representation
Climbing Outside Contents 1 Risks . 2 2 Clubs . 3 3 Young Climbers . 3 4 The Environment . 4 5 History and Ethics . 6 6 Grades . 7 7 Bouldering . 9 8 Leading Indoors . 11 9 Sport Climbing . 11 10 Traditional Climbing . 12 11 Abseiling . 25 Cover photo: Clipping a camming device, Stanage Photo – Alex Messenger • Working for climbers, Acknowledgements hill walkers and Produced by Jon Garside BMC/MLTE Training Officer with support from members of the Training mountaineers Advisory Group. Funded by Sport England A number of people were very generous in • Keeping crags open contributing to this booklet: British Mountain Guide • Travel and Steve Long gave us free access to the text in his First Moves series, the Bouldering section was liability insurance adapted from Simon Panton’s North Wales Bouldering guide (Northern Soul, 2004), and • Competitions, safety Barbara Jones contributed to the conservation and training issues in that section. A number of diagrams • Discounts on gear, have been taken from MLTUK’s book Rock magazines and travel Climbing – Essential Skills & Techniques • Worldwide by British Mountain ‘information service’ Guide Libby Peter. To purchase a copy now please contact Join today the BMC on www.thebmc.co.uk 0870 010 4878. Many wall users wanting to climb on real rock would like to develop their inside to outside existing skills. If that sounds like you, then read on! Britain is often referred to as the home Remote adventurous climbing, Scafell of adventure climbing, and renowned Photo – Jon Garside for the incredible variety of rock types available on such a small island. Our cliffs may not be the tallest, but they present many new challenges not experienced indoors, forcing the climber to adopt very different climbing styles. -
Cyclorama Wall, Extraterrestrial Vortex California, Kings Canyon National Park
AAC Publications Langille Peak, The Prodigy; Cyclorama Wall, Extraterrestrial Vortex California, Kings Canyon National Park In 2013, Scotty Nelson, Jon Griffin and I slogged 18 miles back to the "netherworld between the Palisades and LeConte Canyon” in Kings Canyon National Park, home to the Cyclorama Wall [37.001365, -118.506994]. The only recorded route on the wall was established by Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler and Galen Rowell in 1979 (see AAJ 1980) and has a vague and intriguing description. Our goal was either to free their route or establish a new route of our own. We picked a route near the center of the wall and found a fixed hex around the fifth pitch. It must be their route! We added a two- bolt anchor on top of the first pitch, and a piton on pitch five (above the fixed hex), but otherwise added no other hardware. Despite our best efforts, we did not free the route. This past summer, I recruited Vitaliy Musiyenko to join me for another free attempt of the 1979 route. I told him I had freed all the moves individually and that there was one really good pitch that probably would go at 5.12a. My memory served me well, and we were able to free the route in a push to establish Extraterrestrial Vortex (1,000’, 9 pitches, 5.12a). On our way to the Cyclorama Wall, Vitaliy and I stopped by Langille Peak to check out a potential new route. Previously, he and Brian Prince made an attempt to repeat the East Buttress Direct (IV 5.10b, Rowell-Wilson, see AAJ 1989), but as reported in AAJ 2019, they were shut down by blank rock five pitches up, and later determined they were likely on new terrain. -
Richard Delaney, Ropelab
Physics for Roping Technicians March 2018 Richard Delaney, RopeLab © RICHARD DELANEY, 2018 ROPELAB: PHYSICS FOR ROPING TECHNICIANS 2 © RICHARD DELANEY, ROPELAB,2018 This text has been developed to assist roping technicians in gaining an understanding of the fundamental principles of physics that underpin so many rope based activities. Some of us are fortunate enough to have had teachers and mentors who have managed to make mathematics and physics interesting. My high school maths teacher, the late Mr Kevin Garitty, was a unique individual and had a way of making us understand rather than learn. Through this approach I have managed to grasp and retain much. This stuff is not that hard, I suspect it’s just that not many people take the time to explain it well. The following is my effort to restate the basics and build to a place where some of the more common roping scenarios can be better understood. I have gained this knowledge and understanding through a lifetime of experience and having had the good fortune of working and playing alongside many very talented individuals who have happily shared their craft. In no particular order thanks must go to Glen Nash, Adam Darragh, William Proctor, Pat Rhodes, Dallas Atkinson, Robert Dunshea, Rob Stringer, Lucas Trihey and a host of others for their patience and sharing. Thanks must also go to my dear wife Sarah and our two sons, Tom and Ben, for their assistance, understanding, and patience over the years. At times they must have questioned my sanity and motivation for this work. Many of the illustrations in this text have been created with the vRigger software package. -
The Isles of Mist
The Isles of Mist By Tad Davis Introduction Encounter Locales Deep within an icy fjord at the very edge of civilization sit Each of the (land based) hexes is keyed with a specific the Isles of mist. The islands are home to a few hearty encounter locale that serves as a potential point of interest fishermen and herders, as well as a population of giants in or source of adventure. These entries all appear within the decline. Yet the myriad ruined cities, strange monuments Hex Key. The format of the Hex Key has been designed to and burial grounds scattered about the land bear witness to maximize ease of reference at the table. Each entry begins a more illustrious past. Little is known about the former with the four-digit number of the hex that it corresponds to, inhabitants of the isles. Legend has it they were powerful followed by a descriptive title of the locale. One of the mage lords that tempted the fates and were cursed to an innovations made to the hex key format of this module is eternal death without rest. It is also rumored in dark that it also contains a set of symbols. These are intended as taverns that the islands are a haven to pirates. visual cues to allow you to quickly identify specific information about the encounter. The first set of symbols Welcome to The Isles of Mist, a system-neutral hexcrawl indicates the type of locale encountered and the second exploration adventure designed for introductory through indicates the terrain type surrounding it. -
Wilderness Exploration - 1
Wilderness Exploration - 1 These tables describe how to run an improvised wilderness hex crawl. The idea is that the even the GM does not know what the players will encounter, since the map, features, and encounters are all rolled randomly at the table. Every time the players explore a new hex, there are three primary rolls that need to be made. It works well to assign particular players to be responsible for some of these rolls to speed play- and also keep the players a part of the world creation. However the GM should always be the one to make the encounter roll. The party should have a blank Hex Region map (Make copies of the one at the end of the document) and a ‘starting point’ hex. If rolling for the starting hex, roll a d8 for the row and then the column. Next roll or select a hex terrain type for their starting point- this will be important for when they begin exploring the hexes around the starting hex. (You may want to roll up a village for their starting hex using the village and town rules. This can be their safe place for buying rations and selling treasure.) BASIC PROCEDURE Every time the PCs explore a new adjacent hex, these three roll are made first: » Determine the Hex Terrain type - using the table on the next page, roll a D20 and cross reference it with the hex type they just exited. This tells the type of the new hex. (There is a 50% chance that it is the same type as before) » Roll for presence of a Feature - A d8 roll to see if the party finds something of interest in that hex. -
Climbing Rocks Climbing Rocks
(2) 1-1/4’’ hex Head Bolts (2) 1-1/4’’ hex Head Bolts (2) 1-1/2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) 1-1/2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) 1-1/4’’ hex Head Bolts (2) 2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) 2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) 1-1/2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) 2’’ Hex Head Bolts (1) Flat Washer per bolt (2) 1-1/4’’ hex Head Bolts BP 011-4 CLIMBINGCLIMBING ROCKSROCKS (1) Loc Washer per bolt (1) Flat Washer per bolt WARNING: This accessory must be assembled by an(2) 1-1/4’’adult. hex Head Bolt Thiss accessory is intended for residential (2) 1-1/2’’ Hex Head Bolts use only.This accessory intended for children 3-10 years of age. Kit Hardware: (1) Flat Washer per bolt (1) Loc Washer per bolt (2) Weld nuts (2) 2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) 1-1/2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) 1-1/4’’ hex Head Bolts (2) FLAT (2) LOCK (2) WELD (2) 1-1/4’’ HEX HEAD BOLT (2) 1-1/2’’ HEX HEAD BOLT (2) 2’’ HEX HEAD BOLT WASHER WASHER NUT Tools Required: (1) Loc Washer per bolt (2) 2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) 1-1/2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) Weld nuts 7/16’’ SOCKET AND SAFETY GLASSES TAPE MEASURE DRILL 3/8’’ DRILL BIT SOCKET WRENCH Fig. 1 (2) 2’’ Hex Head Bolts (1) Flat Washer per bolt (2) Weld nuts (2) Weld nuts (1) Flat Washer per bolt (1) Loc Washer per bolt 3/8” Holes (1) Loc Washer per bolt (1) Flat Washer per bolt (2) Weld nuts (2) 2’’ Hex Head Bolts Climbing Rock (1) Loc Washer per bolt or (2) 1-1/2’’ Hex Head Bolts (2) Weld nuts or (2) 1-1/4’’ hex Head Bolts (1) Flat Washer per bolt (1) Loc Washer per bolt NOTE: THE ROCK WALL INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED WITH YOUR KIT OVERRIDE THESE INSTRUCTIONS. -
Alpine Courses Instruction Booklet
Alpine Courses Instruction Booklet by Sarah Hodgson & Kingsley Jones Photo: climbing Cascade Lillaz, Val de Cogne Booklet copyright 2014, www.icicle.co.uk 2: Basic Alpine Ropework – Knots This section covers the key knots that you will require in the Alps. You only need to know the knots pictured below, and there is an explanation of the situations in which you would use each one. In all the diagrams the rope is either a half or full rope (8-11mm), and the thinner ropes (bottom three diagrams) are prussic cord which is 7mm in diameter. Figure of 8 Doubled Figure 8 Bowline This diagram is just so that you This is the preferred way to tie on, A quick method of tying on, but it can ensure that you can make the as it is essentially two opposing is not as easy to check as a initial figure of 8 to start tying on, figure of 8 knots tightening Double Figure of 8. It must be before retracing the shape with against each other. A stopper used with a stopper knot, and it is the loose end of rope. knot on the end is optional. easy to undo after a fall. Stopper Knot Clove Hitch Italian / Munter This knot is to be used if you have For locking off a rope at a belay This hitch is clipped onto a tied on with a bowline, or two can stance, this knot is the best karabiner, and is used to either be used against each other to method. It is very adjustable, so lower off or belay. -
ICE Alpine Ice Climbing Lecture 2019
Mountaineers - Alpine Ice Climbing Course 2019 8/13/2019 Lecture Slides/ Student Handout ICE Alpine Ice Climbing Lecture 2019 [Mt Hood/ Sandy Headwall] Alpine Ice • Variety of forms under combined effects of pressure, heat, frozen precipitation, time, snow , etc. into alpine ice of glaciers, ice fields, and couloirs. • Little distinction between alpine ice and hard snow. [Mt Hood/ Leuthold Couloir] Page 1 8/13/2019 Water Ice • Liquid water freezes to form water ice. • Dramatic as waterfalls, thin as clear coating over rock surfaces. • Water ice usually harder, steeper, and more brittle than alpine ice. [Ouray Ice Park, CO] Characteristics of Ice [Mt Rainier/ Kautz Glacier] Mountaineers - Alpine Ice Climbing Course 2019 Page 2 8/13/2019 Characteristics of Ice Ice Quality = Weather • Ice formed directly from water freezing; or indirectly through metamorphosis of neve (permanent snow). Ice is distinguished from hard snow when its mass is air tight. • OPAQUENESS denotes softness. Soft, plastic snow can lead to good tool placements; too soft and weak can lead to weak protection. • COLOR indicate hardness. Blue ice (ice relatively pure) vs black ice (old, hard ice mixed with dirt, pebbles, debris) • CLARITY equals brittleness. Can require extra time to plant a tool without ice shatter. • Cracks and fractures can mean weakness • “Dinner plates” mean temperatures are changing (tends to happen later in day as air warms), surface of ice becomes softer and more aerated, breaks away in plates Mitigating Hazards [Fissile Peak/ Northwest Face, British -
The Mountaineer 1978
THE' MOUNTAINEER THE MOUNTAINEER 1978 Published July, 1979 Cover: Mountain Hemlock (Ramona Hammerly) 2 The Mountaineer (USPS 366-700) EDITORIAL COMMITTEE Mary Nysether, Managing Editor; Verna Ness, Production Editor; Christa Lewis, Assistant Editor; Herb Belanger, Don Brooks, Mary Leberg, Mariann Schmitt, Laura Swan, Cindy Vollmer, Mary Jane Ware. Writing, graphics and photographs should be submitted to the Editor, The Mountaineer, at the address below, before Janu ary 15, 1980 for consideration. Photographs should be black and white prints, at least 5x7 inches, with caption and photographer's name on back. Manuscripts should be typed double-spaced, with at least 1 Y2 inch margins, and include wri ter's name, address and phone number. Graphics should have caption and artist's name on back. Manuscripts cannot be re turned. Properly identified photographs and graphics will be returned about July. Copyright @1979 by The Mountaineers. Entered as second class matter April 8, 1922, at Post Office, Seattle, Washington, and additional offices under the act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly, except July, when semi monthly, by The Mountaineers, 719 Pike Street, Seattle, Washington 98101. 3 THE MOUNTAINEERS Purposes To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of Northwest America; Tomake expeditions into these regions in fulfillment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of out door life. t � ----..:::::- -""°"'� ---������0wiw.=-- --- Firs at Excelsior Pass, North Cascades. Susan Marsh 4 Black-capped chickadee.