TheShortSpan A guide to bouldering in Ireland

By David Flanagan

Version 5.0 Autumn 2009

Bouldering is dangerous, do it at your own risk

1 Contents

Contents ...... 2 Introduction ...... 4 History...... 5 Using the guide...... 8 Ethics ...... 8 Dublin ...... 9 Portrane ...... 10 Bullock Harbour ...... 18 Dalkey Quarry ...... 21 Three Rock...... 22 The Scalp...... 23 Esoterica ...... 27 Wicklow ...... 29 Stonecutter’s Glen...... 30 Lough Bray ...... 32 Cloghogue ...... 33 Lough Dan ...... 35 Glenmacnass...... 38 Carrigshouk ...... 42 Mall Hill ...... 43 Wicklow Gap ...... 46 Annalecka ...... 54 Glendalough...... 58 Glenmalure ...... 67 Esoterica ...... 68 Donegal ...... 69 Barnesmore Gap ...... 70 Malin Beg...... 70 Muckross Head ...... 71 Doochary ...... 72 Polldoo Glen ...... 74 Crolly ...... 76 Cruit Island ...... 78 Burtonport ...... 78 Mullaghdoo ...... 79 Carrickfin...... 80 Dunaff Bay...... 81 Fanad Head...... 83 Rubonid Point ...... 84 Esoterica ...... 85 Connemara ...... 86 Inish Mór ...... 87 Barna...... 90 Derryrush ...... 91 Roundstone...... 94 Jim's Nook ...... 95 Prehistoric Boulder ...... 96 Leenane Boulders...... 96 Bundorragha Boulder...... 96 Delphi Valley ...... 97 Esoterica ...... 98 Mournes...... 99 Fairhead ...... 100 Main Edge...... 101 2 Sligo...... 103 Aughris Head...... 103 Cork ...... 104 Kerry...... 105 Gap of Dunloe ...... 106 Black Valley ...... 112 Clare ...... 115 Toit le Cul de Clare...... 115 Doolin ...... 116 Mayo ...... 120 Waterford...... 120 Leitrim/Cavan/ Fermanagh ...... 120 Louth...... 120 The White Bog...... 121 Wexford...... 123 Down...... 123 Limerick...... 123 Thanks ...... 123

3 Introduction

This bouldering guide to Ireland has details of about fifteen hundred boulder problems from all over the country. The bouldering in Ireland is generally found near the coasts. Granite predominates, being found in Dublin, Wicklow, Galway, Down and Donegal; thus the bouldering style tends towards technical moves on rounded holds.

Some of the best bouldering is in popular tourist spots such as Glendalough in Wicklow, the Aran Islands, Kerry and Connemara - this makes it easy to do a small bit of bouldering whilst on a “normal” holiday. While I included details of as many bouldering areas as possible, there are many opportunities for those willing to explore, to find new problems and new areas all over the country.

The best destination for a short bouldering trip to Ireland is Wicklow; Glendalough and Glenmacnass are both excellent and there are plenty of other smaller areas. Wicklow is only an hour south of Dublin, so is easy to get to.

In the winter there are no midges, and the cold windy weather means conditions are often perfect for hard bouldering however, the days are much shorter (in late December the sun sets at four), and it is more likely to rain.

In summer, midges are a problem on still, humid days in the hills (they appear in May and disappear in September), and the rock can get greasy. However, the days are longer (in late June the sun sets at half ten), and there should be less rain.

The spring and autumn months are a mixture of the extremes of summer and winter, so are probably the best times to visit.

Area Rock Number of Description problems Dublin Limestone/Granite 245 Portrane and Bullock are coastal, Dalkey is best for routes. Three Rock is on the south edge of the city. Wicklow Granite 575 All hilly areas; mostly in the valleys that converge at Laragh. Donegal Mostly Granite 240 Centred around three areas, the Bluestacks mountains, Gweedore and Inishowen. Connemara Granite/Limestone/Sandstone 110 A few small areas in Killary harbour in the north; the relatively unexplored area of Derryrush; and the limestone of the Aran Islands. Mournes Granite 50+ Granite bouldering with long walk-ins in a hilly setting. Fairhead Dolerite 30+ Boulders in the scree below the extensive crag. Sligo Limestone/Granite 30+ Aughris Head is good but needs the right conditions. Clare Limestone/Sandstone 75 Doolin by the sea and Le Toit de Clare inland. Cooleys Gabbro 50 Rough rock. Kerry Sandstone 90+ The Gap and the Black Valley at the bottom of the reeks. Other areas Limestone/Granite/Gabbro/Sandstone ? Either little-explored or of local interest only.

NOTE: Projects are counted as > 7a. Problems in the Esoterica sections are not included in the totals.

4 History 50s/60s/70s Bouldering has been around in Ireland as long as route climbing, but only in recent times has it become popular.

"Bouldering of a sort has been going on at Glendalough for the best part of fifty years…nothing like the intensity that is happening now" Joss Lynam

This isn’t surprising when you think that any climbers heading for the crag in Glendalough would have to walk by almost two kilometres of boulders. In the early Seventies, Steve Young and Jim Leonard sought new challenges outside Glendalough on the Motte stone at Cronebane near Avoca, the scree in Luggala and in the forests around Rathdrum in their EBs and flares. Back then, problems were rarely named and there were no bouldering grades: it was all a bit of a lark before the real business of climbing routes. However, the 1977 Bray Head guide mentioned some of the boulder problems in Bullock Harbour and these were the first Irish boulder problems to be recorded in a guidebook.

‘80s By the end of the Eighties, most of the easy obvious lines around the Ruins and the Path in Glendalough were done by the likes of Howard Hebblethwaite, Steve Young, Donal O'Murchu, Jimmy Leonard, Paul McHugh, Joe Mulhall and others; including classics such as The Plum, Original Route, Greg’s Problem (done in ’89 by Greg Lowe) and The Überhang.

‘90s In the Nineties, bouldering became a more popular and accepted part of climbing and people started to become aware of the potential under their noses. It’s not really known where the fine boulder by the stream in Glendalough got the name Big Jim, but it probably originated from D.I.T. mountaineering club around '96. In ’97, Three Rock became popular with Michael Duffy and the Rooney brothers. The invention of bouldering pads made bouldering a bit safer; though Joe Purser and James Gernon did The Rails in the summer of '98 without such luxuries. Pascal Battault and Michael Duffy did White Arrow in the scree utilizing Pascal's homemade duct tape pad. Andy Griffith climbed the problems on the Tripod boulder, plus Dell Boy among others in ‘98.

‘00 Glendalough had a few strong visitors from across the water in ’00, including Mark Croxall who climbed Mark’s Slab beside The Fin, and John Gaskins (on the first of many visits) who did a few of the harder problems, including The Nu Rails SS and The Egg SS. Glenmacnass was discovered that winter by David Flanagan and Michael O’ Dwyer. Over on the west coast, Aughris Head and Lough Easkey were found by a bouldering surfer based in Easkey sometime around ’00.

‘01 Kev Cooper’s discovery of Portrane in March ‘01 was timely, as the country was in the grip of the Foot and Mouth restrictions. The restrictions put on rural lands made the usual Wicklow spots virtually inaccessible for Dublin based boulderers. So by the end of 2002 most of the obvious lines had already been climbed. Nic Sellars and Miles Gibson visited in the summer of ’01 and did the long traverses and the steep sit-start problems on the Rasher boulder in Glenmacnass.

‘02 Fresh off the boat, Andy Robinson spotted the boulders in Lough Bray in spring '02. Ian Mulvany and Dave Ayton discovered An Cáipin on Inish Mór during that summer while taking a break from the endless new routes. Also that summer, Dave Hanlon found a few nice boulders around Roosky in Mayo. In Glendalough, Andy Crome on a visit from the UK climbed the popular Andy's Arete. In September, Al Millar and Stuart Hamilton climbed about thirty problems at Rubonid Point on the Inishowen peninsula. Later in the year, they along with the rest of the Donegal lads - Dave Millar, Pete Cooper and Geoff Thomas - developed the excellent Polldoo Glen in the Bluestacks.

‘03 Michael O'Dwyer got up very early one morning in January ‘03 to do The Fin SS in Glendalough. Barry O'Dwyer and Al Sarhan continued hunting out more steep, powerful problems such as Chillax and Quality Control. That Easter, most of the problems in Carrickfin, Burtonport and Cruit in Donegal were done by a big group from Dublin. Meanwhile, Toby Foord-Kelcey - who has been bouldering in Connemara since the early eighties – was busy exploring and documenting the new areas around Killary Harbour. Also in Connemara, Kev Howett discovered The Prehistoric boulder, and the Delphi boulders were found by Cian Kearns and other instructors from the adventure centre in Delphi. Just before Christmas ’03, John Gaskins climbed Darkness before the Dawn on the Tank boulder in Glendasan - an amazing line up the steep and blank face and the hardest boulder problem in Ireland.

5 ‘04 ‘04 started well with four great finds - The Wormhole, Mall Hill, Crolly and Dunaff. Some great limestone problems at the Wormhole on Inish Mór were climbed over a weekend in January by a hungover group from Dublin.

After a few stolen mornings, thirty problems were climbed in Mall Hill by Dave Flanagan, Diarmuid Smyth and Kevin Byrne.

In February, Dunaff Bay was discovered in the North West of Inishowen by Peter Cooper, and in March a few boulders were found in Crolly.

The Hidden Groove boulder in Glendo was blitzed by Dave Ayton one day in February. The Tank in Glendasan has been climbed on for years, but it was the discovery of other boulders, like The Starting Block and Electric Mountain close by, that made Glendasan valley an interesting, if slightly spread out, destination.

In Glenmacnass, Andy Robinson got obsessed and did the magnificent arete Solidarity, just before the first bouldering meet, when a record sixty-people visited Glenmacnass and Glendalough.

Crackland, deep in the scree of Glendalough, was developed in April after a weekend visit from the North Wales Mafia; thus bringing the number of problems in the valley to about one hundred. Although most of the obvious problems in Glendo have been climbed, there is still plenty of potential on the south side of the river and higher up the scree slopes on the north side.

In August, Toby Foord-Kelcey scratched the surface in Derryrush, South Connemara and found some great granite boulders.

‘05 ‘05 was the year of the magazine with articles about Irish bouldering appearing in Grimper, High, Friction and Climber. The second bouldering meet was held in March and was a great success with perfect weather and an enthusiastic attendance. The new Dalkey guide was published and for the first time has a separate bouldering section. Toby Foord-Kelcey found a monster boulder in Derryrush called The Chief.

In Fairhead the first bouldering guide was written by Ricky Bell and Ali Wilson.

Al Sarhan was the first to boulder in Doolin in ’05 with others not far behind, it has since become popular with the Galway climbers, as has the disused quarry in Barna, Galway.

In the summer an Anglo-Irish team including Andy Robinson found and documented some bouldering in Mullaghdoo near Carrickfin and Malin Beg in Donegal.

‘06 In early ‘06 Pierre Fuentes was tipped off by a walker friend about some boulders in the Cloghogue valley above Lough Tay and climbed the majority of the problems though Howard Hebblethwaite had been years before.

During the summer Pierre added a few problems to the Pirates Cove and the Pigeon Holes in Portrane some of which had been done before but never documented. Pierre also found a roof in East Clare called Le Toit Le Cul De Clare on St Patrick’s Day.

A few worthwhile problems were climbed in Carrigshouk. The huge leap of Ice9 is one of the few big dynos around. Seamus Crowley discovered the Annalecka boulder in Wicklow Gap.

Over the summer some of the members of CRAIC climbing club in Cork cleaned up the limestone walls near Douglas swimming pool.

‘07 Over the winter Seamus Crowley developed the bouldering on the west side of Wicklow this is now known as Annalecka. The foresters have continued the cutting that already in Mall Hill.

Geoff Thomas, Peter Cooper and Dave Millar climbed new problems in Fanad Head and Doochary in Donegal.

Grzegorz Florek wrote a bouldering guide to Doolin that shall appear in the upcoming Burren guide and will be the first bouldering guide in a print guide in Ireland. Nigel Callender climbed Night follows day Doolin’s hardest problem.

A few new problems were climbed in the Wormhole, Inishmore over the May Bank Holiday weekend.

Nigel Callender, Damien O'Sullivan, Eoin Kennedy, Mick Walsh and Hugh Henessey further developed the bouldering in the Gap of Dunloe and Black Valley.

Michael O’Dwyer did some new sandstone bouldering in Bull Head, Dingle, Kerry.

Paul Harrington has developed some bouldering in Rocky Bay, Cork.

John Harrison discovered a new roof near the road in Fanore, Clare that is climbable on in the rain.

Paul Swail, Andrew Marshall and others climbed some new problems in the Cooleys, Louth on rough gabbro.

Rumours and even some impressive photos surfaced of the mythical gritstone in Fermanagh. 6

In the July Michael Reardon (who tragically was swept away by a wave in Kerry only two weeks later) and Ped McMahon climbed some highball problems on the outcrop south of Bullock, Dublin. That may have been done before.

Exploration in Glendalough continued as per usual with more problems being discovered in the scree.

‘08 Dave Flanagan and Ped McMahon climbed a few problems in Glenmalure, Wicklow in February.

Damien O'Sullivan, Eoin Kennedy, Hugh Henessey and Mick Walsh scratched the surface in the Black Valley south of the Gap of Dunloe in Kerry.

Pierre Fuentes along with Tim Chapman, Michael Nicholson and Sean Walsh climbed two dozen problems in the Stonecutter’s Glen east of Lough Bray in Wicklow.

Over the Summer Pierre developed another area in the Cooleys called White Bog.

Michael Duffy climbed a load of problems in the Forest at Lough Nahanagan in Wicklow.

New boy Ciaran Mulhall added to the problems in the Glendasan Valley.

More new problems were climbed in Glendo, the push continuing deeper into the scree.

Duffy climbed an 8a in the Scalp, Wicklow.

‘09 Eoin Kennedy wrote the a bouldering guide to the Black Valley and Gap of Dunloe in Kerry in time for the first Gap climbing meet in April.

7 Using the guide

This guide uses Fontainebleau grades, which I have tried to apply accurately and consistently; V Font however grading is an inexact science so they aren’t perfect. The grades don’t take into account height or bad landings and assume reasonably good conditions and the optimal sequence. The V0- 3+ chart opposite is the generally accepted mapping for those more used to V grades. V0 4

The vast majority of older/easier problems weren’t named when first done which can make V0+ 4+ things very confusing so I have retro-named some of them: I hope this doesn't offend. V1 5

The maps should get you to the boulders, but if you are spending an extended period in one V2 5+ place, and want to hike or explore, I recommend the Discovery series maps published by the V3 6A Ordnance Survey that cover all of Ireland at a scale of 1:50,000. V4 6B “SS” denotes a sitting (or low) start. A “P” (for project) in place of a grade means the problem V5 6C has been attempted but not done or is worthy of attention. V6 7A V7 7A+ V8 7B V8/9 7B+ V9 7C V10 7C+ V11 8A V12 8A+ V13 8B V14 8B+ V15 8C

Warning: don’t take grades seriously.

In its current state the guide isn’t definitive, I have made efforts to describe every bouldering area but not necessarily every boulder problem. In some of the more popular areas I have neglected some of the more esoteric and lowball problems which are probably only of interest to locals. Few eliminates and only the most worthwhile variations are mentioned. Ethics

These guidelines are an interpretation of the Mountaineering Council of Ireland good practise for climber’s document.

• No pof/resin. • No chipping or gluing. • No wire brushing. • The removal of vegetation should be avoided whenever possible. • Keep chalk marks to a minimum. • Use a bouldering pad to protect the ground. • Respect the country code and leave no trace of your visit.

8 Dublin

Due to the proximity of the great bouldering in Wicklow, the bouldering around Dublin is usually a stopgap for Dublin based climbers who can’t get to Wicklow. Portrane is the most extensive by far but Dalkey, Bullock and Three Rock all have their devotees.

For those without cars, Dalkey and Bullock can easily be accessed by the DART or bus; and Portrane is a forty minute walk from Donabate train station.

When it rains, the climbing wall in UCD (University College Dublin) is the best bet – you can find it five kilometres south of the city centre off the N11.

Area Rock Walk in Number of < 4+ 5 - 6c+ > 7a Weather problems 1 Portrane Smooth limestone 1 min 110 11 89 10 Some areas are tidal, can be greasy 2 Bullock Harbour Rough granite 1 min 60 20 35 5 Sea cliffs, mostly non-tidal 3 Dalkey Quarry Quarried granite 1 min 19 6 13 0 Sheltered quarry 4 Three Rock Very rough granite 15 mins 15 6 9 0 Very exposed hill top at uphill on a 450m good track 5 The Scalp Sharp granite 1-5 mins 75 20 40 15 Steep hillside, some tree cover

9 Portrane

The bouldering in Portrane is steep - on mini-cliffs and narrow alleys - with powerful moves between relatively low-friction, sea-polished slopers and edges. It’s a change from the technical style of Wicklow granite and the weather tends to be better. The best time to go is about two hours before low tide, as most of the problems have been out of the water for a few hours. A cloth is very handy to clean sand off your shoes.

Head north from Dublin on the airport road (N1) or motorway (M1). About 5 km after the airport and Swords, is a turn for Donabate and Portrane, take this and carry straight through Donabate and Portrane village, past the caravan park into the carpark.

Kev Cooper’s discovery of Portrane in March ‘01 was timely, as the country was in the grip of the Foot and Mouth restrictions. The restrictions put on rural lands made the usual Wicklow spots virtually inaccessible for Dublin based boulderers. So Portrane was very popular from the start and by the end of 2002 most of the obvious lines had already been climbed.

During the summer ‘06 Pierre Fuertes explorer further south and added a few problems to the Pirates Cove and the Pigeon Holes in Portrane some of which may have been done before but never were never recorded.

10 The Arch

The Arch is on the right side of the beach and can easily be access via the staircase. Most of the problems in this area have sitting starts. At high tide the water reaches up past the arch itself. The sand level can vary considerably from tide to tide.

5m left of problem 25 is a mini-roof but due to the abundance of barnacles and the tidal conditions it hasn’t seen any development yet.

Going further around in that direction (at low tide), you will find yourself in the vault. It has seen little development as it is often wet and some parts are friable clay rock nevertheless it has a few nice lines including a couple of highballs. 11

1 - 5 Go right to meet The Ear. 2 The Ear 6a+ Start low on the face; go up left to a big black hold and up the arete using pockets on the face. 3 The Arch P SS to the steep underside of the arch. The arch has been climbed by several people up to its middle point. But no one has yet succeeded in pushing the line further. 4 Girls On Film 5+ SS at the base of the crack. Reach back to the big holds, move up and traverse left to finish high. Possible link with Mr Bump. The French Connection 7b starts as for Girls On Film and finishes up The Ear. 5 Planet Earth 5 Same start. Traverse right into the cave. It’s possible 7a to continue under the arch and finish up The Ear. - 6a SS. From the big ledge you can either awkwardly climbed into the mini cave or dyno to the top jug above. 6 Stick It 6a SS. Dyno to the good hold and up to the right. Can be done statically. Pebble 6b has the same start but goes left after the dyno. 7 - 6a Start on the left of the cave, go up on good holds, and move right to the pocket and up. 8 Radioactive Seaweed 6c SS in the small cave in the middle of the wall. From the good holds go up and left to a long reach for a good pocket then up. 9 Peter Marks 7a Start as for Radioactive Seaweed. Reach right to good holds then make long moves straight up to the top. 10 Bop 2 The Top 7a Start on the long undercut under the small roof, pull out left and up the wall above. 11 X-Men 6c Start under the small roof, turn the lip on slopers and rock up and left. Never been flashed… 12 Fisting 6a SS. Start on a good hold below the wide crack, get a good jam, over the bulge, a long reach or a dyno leads to a good finish hold. 13 Morning Glory 6b SS on the big low sloper. Catch a second huge stone above and traverse around left into the cave. 14 - 6b SS as Morning Glory. Instead of following the traverse around, catch a good pinch hold left hand on the corner and go straight up. 15 Doc Octopus 6a+ SS as Morning Glory and straight up. 16 Spiderman 6c+ SS - use the undercut to make a hard move to a good finger pocket make a long reach to good holds and the top. 17 Richie’s 5 Up the wall on the good brown stones. 18 - 6a SS as Morning Glory. Traverse diagonally right up to Richie’s. 19 - 6a Start in a small corner, and then up on small crimps to the top ledge. 20 - 6a Traverse the wall from right to left. 21 - 6b SS and up onto the bulge. 22 - 6b+ Traverse up from the far left part of the wall. Possible link with Mr. Uppitty. 23 Swing Baby 6a+ Start on the finger pocket, move dynamically right and up. There are a few dynos and double dynos variations. 24 Mr. Uppitty 6c Start at the bottom right of a line of polished stones, move up and left, then left again and up to the top. 25 Mr. Bump 5+ Start where the roof starts to close. Move up on good holds and reach through the narrow gap to good finishing holds. Possible link with Girls on film. 26 The Wreck 6a Highball. From the ledge at waist height head up the slightly overhanging face on to the left side to top out. The right hand finish is undone. 27 - 6b SS with a good foot lock. Dead point to the lip. Mantelshelf finish. 28 - 6a Same sit start but go right up. 29 Popip 6b SS on a good flat low hold. Deadpoint to an upper edge and top out. 30 - 3 Warm up wall. 31 - 4 SS straight up and top out. 32 - 5 SS below the arete on a good jug, rock over to the right and top out. 33 - 6a SS as previous but follow the edge of the overhang on good holds and top out. 34 Shot down in Flames P Highball. From the jamming steps at the bottom, go up to a good flake just above the overhang. From there, a bold rockover leads to a crack left hand. Then top out. 35 Power vault 6b+ Start on small edge. Deadpoint to an obvious crack left hand. From there layback to reach a good flat stone in the middle of the roof arc. A traverse project links it up with the other side of the vault.

12 The Alley

The climbing in the Alley is on smooth overhanging limestone, high tide can go up past problem 9. The sit start to The Ramp starting as for The Clit will be an awesome link taking in some very powerful moves. Well worth a visit, but very conditions dependant. Just to the right (facing the sea) of the Alley is another small area that tends to be in condition less than the Alley but is worth a look (needs low tide).

1 Deep water solo 6b Traverse the wall at high tide (no rocks below). The same wall could be climbed up at very low tide (highball) 2 Limpet 6a+ Starting on the left side of the arch and traverse the break, finish up the blowhole. 3 - P Project line going up the overhang. 4 - 7a+ Traverse from back of the cave to the blowhole on the left. Portrane style start on a line of jugs, followed by awkward scattered finger pockets. There is also a project going up the roof: huge reaches on finger pockets. 5 - P Juggy start and slaps up right to the top of the Fin. 6 Fin 6a Climb the fin. 7 - 4 Rockover and reach the top of the flake on the left 8 - 4+ Various warm-ups on the vertical wall. 9 Wave Washed 6b Traverse the lip of the waist high roof. There are a few SS 6b that start below the lip of the traverse. 10 The Clit 6c+ SS on the big bulge. Rock onto it and go through the roof to top out. 11 Ramp 6b Follow the ramp right to the lip of Andy’s problem, then left and up. Project link from the Clit SS. 12 Andy’s Problem 7a SS. Slap up to a big slippy pinch hold. From there catch the lip above and reach into a good finish jug. 13 Rhubarb Jam 6a Pull up a juggy crack to pocket, long reach to crack, traverse up and right. Top out. 14 The Squeeze 6a SS up via flat hold. 15 Martin Burly 6a Follow the left crack from a SS. 16 - 6a+ SS on the right crack then up the narrow groove. A 6b/c variation goes left up the face rather than the groove.

13 Ground Zero

Ground Zero is a slightly overhanging wall with a small roof and corner on the left hand side. Due to the abundance of holds and lack of natural lines or features to follow, it’s effectively an eliminate sector, but there are many, many variations including straight ups, traverses, dynos and combinations. Most of the holds tend to be flat edges. The wall is sheltered and not affected by the tide. The problems here do not top out. They usually stop in the middle part of the wall on a good ledge break. For the more obsessive boulderer there is a detailed topo of eliminate problems at www.theshortspan.com/guides/groundZero.htm

About twenty metres left of the main wall is a small cave with two good problems that are completely covered at high tide: Dark Matter and Kev’s roof.

Please clean away any excess chalk as some of the holds are getting badly caked with chalk.

1 Dark Matter 6a The easiest line of the cave. Starting at the rear, head left on good incut edges till a blind reach gets you out of the roof. 2 Kev’s roof 6c Harder line through the roof taking on multiple stretchy moves culminating with a long blind reach to the lip of the roof. Finish standing both feet above the roof edge. 3 - 5 Good overhang 4 - 5 Follow the jugs. 5 Corner’s crack 5+ SS on a huge jug on the left wall of the cave. Get out of the roof by following the corner line. 6 Roof left hand 6a SS as per The Corner. Traverse right below the roof till you reach a good handle spike stone. Then up on good ledges. There are a few traverse variations 7 Roof right hand 6a+ SS at the rear of the cave using good foot jams. Get out and follow the letter-box holds to the top ledge. 8 - 6b+ SS below the roof corner. Follow a series of crimpy edges to the top ledge. 9 The Flow Stone 7a SS at the right corner of the roof. A small crimp, a side pull, a pinch hold and two small pockets will guide you to top ridge. 10 The Pinch 5+ SS on ledges, up to a horizontal pinch in the middle of the wall. Finnish on the good flat holds. A popular variation takes the pinch as an undercut. 11 - 5 Straight. 12 - 4 13 Mantelshelf 4+ This easy mantelshelf can become really tricky if you start eliminating. Unfortunately, the flat sloper was partly damaged during summer 2006. 14 Wall Traverse 6b Good old stamina traverse. 15 Roof traverse 6a There are a few roof traverse variations. The easiest one starts on the right corner and follows the lip to the other corner using all the good flat edges.

14 Pirate Cove

The Pirates cove, also known as the twin coves, is located between Ground Zero and the Pit. It can easily be identified: two coves separated by a sort of mini pilaster-peninsula that can be accessed by a narrow path. The two coves are connected by various cavy passages below the peninsula. A gentle rocky slope, left of the first cove when facing the sea, leads to the bottom. The area is affected by the tide. The first cove when coming from the car park has got some overhanging highballs than no one has dared trying without a rope, which is a pity as the landing, although rocky, is perfectly flat.

The second cove has two walls. The west facing one has an interesting overhang unfortunately the holds are quite sharp and the landing is terrible. The other faces east and has a nice wavy roof. Some of the lines are quite obvious, and most of them can actually become micro routes if you top out, although the upper part is easier and can actually be crumbly.

Third cove

The third little cove can be easily accessed from the twin coves at low tide.

1 Capitaine 6c SS. From the undercuts to an obvious sloper on the left. Control your balance to catch a Fracasse diagonal jam slot. Then a jug, a heel hook and spiky sloper lead to a crimp on the face to top out. 2 Captain Crowley 5+ SS. From the undercuts follow the jugs up to the top. 3 Captain Coop’ 6b SS below the bulge. Rock onto it and top out.

Second Cove

4 Edward Blackbeard Teach 4 Up the wall using the jugs. 5 Eric the Red 6a Uneasy moves lead to a first good jug. Look for hidden holds left and rock over your right foot until you hold the jugs. At that stage it is either a bold jump or a bold top out. 6 Jean Bart 6b+ SS on a small crack. Reach right and finish on the jugs. 7 Captain Hook 5+ Sir Francis Drake direct. 8 Sir Francis Drake 5 Start on the huge sloper below the roof. A heel hook will give you access to the big slopey bulge right hand. Have a play with it and reach a series of good hold to the left above the roof. 9 - 6b+ SS as Jean Bart. Traverse right on the jugs until the big bulge of Jean Lafitte. 10 Jean Lafitte 6a Powerful mantelshelf. 11 - 5 SS in the corner jamming the right hand. 12 Jack Sparrow 6b+ SS with a jammed left hand. Heel hook right foot will help you slapping up the good pointy hold above. Then follow the arete keeping your balance till you stand on it. 13 Gráinne Ni Mháille 7a Powerful SS. Small but precise slaps onto the crimps in the groove and up. 14 The Dread Pirate Roberts 5+ Start at the rear of the cave. Then through the roof. Two wonderful back facing slopers (frequent seepage) will get you out of the cave. 15 The Pit

The Pit is about five minutes south of the carpark. It is quite difficult to find, but has a few quality lines. Look for a big slab facing the sea. The pit is a big crack in that slab with a cave in the back. Being above the sea level, it is only affected by the very high tides. It is also sheltered from the wind and therefore can have very different conditions from the other areas. However it often seeps in the winter. All the problems top out on the slab.

1 Mr Muddle 6c Low traverse along the wall and finish up Mr Silly. 2 Mr Small 4 Straight up from the letter box. 3 Mr Topsy Turvy 5 SS from the juggy ledge. Also SS project from below the roof. 4 Miss Rude 6a A footless start and a slap to a big hold. 5 Mr Silly 5+ SS rockover on flat hold then big pockets. 6 Mr Scares Me 6c SS as per Mr Silly, but go up right onto sloper. Sketchy finish. 7 - 5 Up the corner after a long bridging traverse from the rear of the cave. 8 Mr Quiet 5 Start on small slots under the roof to a big pinch. 9 Mr Happy 6a SS on big pinch and slot under roof, slopers, small crimps, slap. 10 Mr Grumpy 5 Left on pinch, other in crack. 11 Mr Cheerful 5 Both hands in the crack in the corner.

Pigeon Holes

After the Pit the path reaches a series of rocky caves full of pigeon holes. This area was never properly developed partly because it is further away and because there is no real concentration of problems. It includes high dark caves, a few small roofs and overhangs and a big roof about 7m above the ground that is probably safer to develop as a route.

These areas are affected by the tide. At low tide you can easily access them coming from the Pit. When the tide is higher you can still access the cracks corner by climbing down the wall on its left (relatively easy). There is no easy way out when the tide is high so always make sure you leave early enough if you do not want to get wet.

16 Mini Cave

The spot closest the carpark is a couple of mini caves. They cannot be seen from the footpath until it takes a turn to the left (concrete slab and wire fence) but they are very recognisable once you stand on the beach.

1 - 6a SS on the left side of the mini-cave. Low traverse left onto the lip. 2 - 4 Same sit-start but go up into the crack left of the bulge. 3 - 5 SS deeper into the cave. Traverse to the bulge and ride it till you top out. 4 - 6a SS dyno and top out. 5 - P Traverse project onto the left side of the mini-cave. 6 - 4 Start into the cave. Follow a good crack in the roof and traverse out right. 7 - 5 Same start but go straight up and top out.

Cracks Corner

The second area is a corner of two vertical walls with a few cracks standing onto a nearly horizontal rocky slab. The top part is very poor quality so the problems stop onto an obvious ledge about 3m high.

1 - 4 SS Follow the juggy arete. 2 - 5 SS in a small groove and up. 3 - 5 Climb the vertical crack. 4 - 4 Climb the corner’s crack. 5 - 5 SS. Juggy traverse passing above the roof. 6 - 5 SS on the left of the small roof. 7 - 5 SS from the back and up through the small roof. 8 Sweet 6a SS on a sharp pocket right hand. Tooth Deadpoint up onto a good edge and up.

17 Bullock Harbour

On the rocks east of Bullock harbour (O 263 277) are a good few boulder problems, deep-water solos and routes. The climbing style is in contrast to the granite of Dalkey Quarry, with flared vertical cracks and juggy horizontal breaks made of rough granite. The rock is quite sugary and sharp. A lot of the climbing here feels more like soloing than bouldering meaning it can be committing and dangerous.

Access to some of the routes is affected by the tides.

Travelling from Dun Laoghaire, pass Glasthule and Sandycove, take a turn left just before Bullock Castle, walk to the end of the pier and go through the gateway. From the nearest DART station in Dalkey, it’s about fifteen minutes walk north along the main road to Bullock.

The 1977 Bray Head guide mentioned some of the boulder problems in Bullock Harbour and these were the first Irish boulder problems to be recorded in a guidebook.

Lán Mara, The Big Layback, Toss the feathers, all the variations on The Barrel, and Reardon’s Roof are all especially worth seeking out.

18 There are a few problem on the dome of rock on the right as you go through the alleyway.

1 - 4 Layback the flake. 2 - 5 Traverse left from the easy angled slab to mantle over just before the corner. 3 - 5 The middle of the wall in the alleyway. 4 Green Wall 3 The centre of the green wall on edges.

The Wall is what most consider the Bullock bouldering and there are a few nice problems, gets great evening sun in the summer.

5 The Block 5+ Traverse the six-foot high block in either direction without using the top. 6 The Mantelshelf 5+ Straight up the wall to the right of the big square ledge near the steps. Bad landing. 7 Graffiti 5 A low start on edges then slap to the ledge. 8 The Seam 6b The diagonal seam left of the ledge using the small crimps. 9 The Wall 4+ The excellent steep juggy wall. 10 Micko’s Wall 6a Use the small crimps. 11 Coxy Arete 4 The left hand arete of the wall above the pool using the flaky edges for your feet

A lot of the following problems are above the water.

12 Fat belly 6a+ Start sitting from a chockstone in the gully, use the small slopey edges to get the break below the overlap, traverse right and then mantle out. The landing requires 3 pads. 13 The Mantelshelf Slab 3 One dicey step off the boulder leads to good holds. 14 The Big Layback 3+ Layback up the bottomless crack in the corner. The climbing might be easy, but falling doesn’t bear thinking about. 15 The Arete 6a The right hand side of the friction arete, sketchy landing and the flake at the top is loose. 16 The Face P The blank face leads to a faint groove. Good landing at low tide. 17 De Prow 4 Layoff to the right, but be careful not to mantel too vigorously or you will fall over the other side and die and everyone will say how pointless your passing was. 18 - 6a Crimp up the centre of the wall. 19 The Little Layback 3 The short corner. 20 Kaneda 6a The arete left of De Prow. 21 Toss the feathers 5 Brilliant DWS, really a boulder problem above deep water. Descend down the juggy chimney, smear left (facing in) into the small corner and layback with a gripping last move. 22 Yellow Slab P Route size, delicate moves off the ledge at the bottom. 23 - 5 Corner, very nice. 24 - VDiff Nasty chimney. 25 - S Nice crack with one tricky move in the middle. 26 - VD Very easy crack to the left.

If the sea is rough or the tide high the following problems will be wet.

27 - 5 Only dry at low tide. Scramble down to the ledge and climb the face to the huge jugs. 28 Lán Mara 4+ This is a five star experience and maybe the best piece of climbing in Bullock, it’s not known who climbed it first so the given name is just for identification. A down climb leads to a ledge at the end of which is a corner capped by a roof. The route goes up the corner, traverses left to the arete and uses the two massive jugs to topout. All this in less than twenty feet. At about Vdiff it could be led, but is best soloed. 29 Lag Mara 5+ A scarier excursion that traverses the lip of the roof on the good jugs to finish as for Lán Mara. 30 An Taobh E11 This lunatic problem/route reaches from the back of the roof to the right of the corner to the jugs Tuathail on the lip and then mantles straight out to finish. You do not want to fall off this (or the previous two problems for that matter).

The following routes are in the deep zawn.

31 Ghost Mutt E3 6a This route is accessed by abseil or traverse at low tide. Ghost Mutt E3 6a is the obvious thin crack and bulge deep in the zawn done by James Gernon and Joe Purser in '97. Apparently a gear pick “protects” the crux. 32 Taxfree HVS The short steep but well protected corner near the mouth, also by James and Joe.

There are a few problems on the apartment slab but you shouldn’t climb here as its private property. There are two decent problems on the wall right of the zawn, the landings are hard and a bit uneven and some of the holds are a bit loose so don’t come crying to me.

33 - Problems on wall right of zawn. 34 - Another one.

The large buttress has some great climbing all above the water. On sunny summer days there is often kids jumping from the top.

35 Barrel Traverse 5+ Down climb the slabby front face of the buttress, traverse right (facing in) pass under a small corner capped by a roof, make blind moves around the arete, next make a tricky step down and right to the juggy flake (first crux) of Ped’s Layback. Again traverse down and right along a serious of finger pockets in a seam (second crux). From the small ledge reach up and left to the slopey ledge (third crux) there is jug somewhere up there. From this next ledge finish up the crack/corner in front of you. Brilliant. 36 Ped’s Layback Alternate finish, up the layback crack. 37 Cyclops P Traverse in from the right (easier) or left to a small pedestal from here is you aiming of the slopey hold in the middle of the face above. The start will be wet at high tide so is best tried 19 when the tide is lowish. 38 - The flared crack to the left. 39 Full Barrel P Traverse into the Barrel Traverse. The crux will be passing the wide chimney.

Mmm

40 Thumbelina E3 6a Takes the long, left-most crack, done by Joe Purser and Davy in '99. Access is at low tide from the boulders. The rocky area pass the Barrel contains a few more problems most notably Reardon’s Roof which was first done by Diarmuid Smyth in 2008 and is an amazing power endurance slopey test piece.

41 - 4 Traverse the jugs where the below problem finishes. 42 Dyno project P Long dyno from and to the huge jugs, at a lowish tide it might be possible to land unharmed in the water below. 43 4 Nice orange slab. 44 Gill problem 5 45 Egg 4 The blank egg, harder if you eliminate the holds on the right. 46 Reardon's Roof 7a Start on the left arete of the steep roof, climb to the lip proper and traverse right the full length of the boulder and around the corner to finish on jugs. 47 - Quarried wall behind straight up Further south

While the rock continues eastwards along the coast, it doesn't reach the heady heights of Bullock again. Past the large buttress near the water is a large outcrop which contains the following problems. They are really routes, steep and serious and it would be highly inadvisable to fall off 3, 4 or 5. In the July of 2007 Michael Reardon (who tragically was swept away by a wave in Kerry only two weeks later) and Ped McMahon climbed the following highball problems however they may have been done before. From left to right.

1 - 5 The first crack on the steep wall. Has a good landing on the level granite platform as does Romantic Warrior. 2 Romantic Warrior 5+ The crack just to the right is trickier. 3 - 5 Start just right of the arete. Can also be approached from the right along the big flake. 4 Steep and Leaningful 5 The middle of the steep wall starting from the quartz. 5 High Rail 4 Start up the easy corner and traverse the juggy rail that hangs out in space.

20 Dalkey Quarry

Dalkey Quarry isn't blessed with a lot of quality bouldering, but it is convenient and there is a lot of rock. All the problems are on the base of larger cliffs or small edges. Aside from the two areas below, there are a few other reasonable problems including:

• A hidden slabby wall below Winder’s Slab with a few interesting problems. • To the right of Paul’s Edge are a few more slab problems. • To the left of Thrust is a wall with a few problems. • A nice slab problem using two pockets at the base of the steps on the upper cliffs. • The buttress with Jingle Bells in the west valley has an excellent project called the Lost World that takes the vertical wall on one finger edges.

For more information about bouldering in Dalkey see the newly revised route guide.

Ivy Wall

Home to some classic but polished problems.

1 - 5 Traverse 2 World’s Hardest Problem 6a SS matching large edge, move right, rock-up and slap to the V. Eliminate. 3 - 5+ Use the slopey curved ramp to reach the V slot. 4 Ivy Wall Dyno 5 Undercut the borehole and double dyno to the top. Bad landing. 5 - 5 Traverse the diagonal break, and then cross on the line of finger jugs to the chimney. 6 - 4 Use the two sharp vertical cracks to reach the diagonal break. 7 Ivy Chimney Left 4 Uses the crack and the jugs. 8 - 5+ An eliminate mantel on the slopers in the middle of the chimney. 9 Ivy Chimney Right 4 Use the small edges to get established then step left. 10 Ex-Ivy Wall 4 Good moves getting to the juggy ledge. 11 Yepp Direct 6c Hard rockover to the base of the borehole. 12 Ivy Wall Traverse 6b/+ Harder from right to left. 13 - 5+ Classic. Use the sidepull to get the slopers on the lip then slap to the borehole. Traverse Wall

The small wall on the left as you enter the West quarry is a good spot to warm up.

1 - 4+ Traverse on the jugs. 2 - 5+ Dyno from the ledge to the small seam on the back of the dome. 3 - 6c Hard low traverse that avoids the jug ledge. 4 - 5 SS on the incut pocket with either hand. 5 - 5+ The left hand side of the arete. 6 - 4 Slabby face using the incut foothold

and sloping edges. 21 Three Rock

Three Rock (O 176 231) is probably the closest real bouldering to Dublin. The views over the city are excellent and almost every problem is a classic. It is exposed to the wind, which is great for the summer, but it can get baltic in the winter. The rock is rough granite with large crystals. While the 7b boulderer might not find much to interest them, there are lots of easy/medium problems, nearly all with grassy landings.

Two Rock to the south has a few easier problems but it not especially worth visiting.

The First Tor

The First Tor is the least interesting of the three tors, but a good spot to warm up. There is a good problem going up the wall, left of the corner on the south side, and a slopey traverse to the right. The Second Tor

Around the backside of the Second Tor is a steep wall with two horizontal slopey breaks; there are worthwhile traverses across each. The up problems are all similar in style, with the crux being rocking onto the lip. If taken in order of difficulty they are a useful way of gaining expertise in that style. The sit-starts are worthwhile but a bit out of character.

1 - 4+ A delicate topout, watch out for the rock behind. 2 - 6a+ A fine problem, beta-intensive with the hardest topout. 3 - 5 A blind reach to the lip with an easier topout. 4 - 6b A big (eliminate) slap from the sloping ledge to the huge jug.

The Third Tor

More varied in style and slightly more sheltered than the Second Tor. The problems around the back are surprisingly high. The dyno and the problems to the left and the right are excellent.

1 - 4 Starting from a hanging position on the jug. 2 - 5 Brilliant slap from the sloping ledge up the blank dome. 3 - 4+ Slopey break to breaking. 4 - 6a Amazing six-foot dyno from the low jugs to the nose. Eliminate. 5 - 5 Wall. 6 - 6a Very strenuous mantel. 7 6a+ Arete 8 - 4+ A careful inspection will reveal the necessary holds to topout easily. 9 - 6a+ The wall left of the two cracks, crimp up to the slopey break then squeeze to topout. 10 - 5 Head to the obvious flat hold. 11 - 4 Mantel.

22 The Scalp

The Scalp is a narrow rocky valley on the Dublin/Wicklow border between Enniskerry and Kilternan. The steep sides are covered in rock and the Scalp probably doesn’t live up to the potential of its first impression however there is some decent bouldering and its close to Dublin, The granite is a featured blocky type not seen elsewhere in Wicklow.

Climbers have being visiting the Scalp since the twenties and some of the routes recorded in the early guides are no more than easy warm-ups by today’s standard. I suspect a good few boulderers have visited the Scalp explored and cleaned a few problems and then only visited sporadically so it’s not really clear who did what. In 2008 Duffy climbed Switch 8a which is high up in the scree, it starts on a side pull and jug with feet at back and uses the slopey rails to hit the jug in the groove.

Kev Cooper, Richie Byrne, Dom Green and others have done some exploring in the nineties.

There are definitely more problems to be found in the Scalp. Dublin End

Pretty roadside and not too overgrown. Well sheltered/shaded.

1 - 5 SS and mantle the lip. Lowball. 2 - 4 From the jug go left up or right. 3 - 5+ Narrow crack, tricky start. 4 Chris’s Arete 5 Arete. 5 LDF 6c+ Steep roof. SS from lowest ledge and slap to the lip, finish right and mantel. 6 - P Vertical seams. 7 - 6b Left arete from SS. 8 Ahab’s 7b+ Big move straight to lip and top, SS 9 - 6c+ From a SS traverse left from Ahab’s. 10 - P SS under bulge and up rib. 11 - 6b+ Crack and slopers from SS.

23 Main Area

Most established and convenient area. The parking spot has room for only 4 cars at the very most.

Gully’s Problem is the most popular problem in the Scalp but there is a good few other things worth doing in the area.

Most of the problems in this area are quite physical in style rather than technical. Standout problems are Gully’s, Gen Tilly, Dark Angle, Bottle bank and Hollytree Roof.

1 Gen Tilly 6b+ Nice left arete of the face, SS, keep right of the arete topping out. Tricky. 2 Plank Arete 6a Arete from the right, SS to good edge and over (SS left, bit trickier). 3 Shady Bitch 7a Steep boulder. Start from the edge, slap to jug and mantle. 4 - 6c The rough arete. 5 - 3+ Easy slab. 6 Hollytree roof 7a+ This boulder is hidden behind a holly tree. This problem goes from the back of the boulder to the front under the roof. 7 Bottlebank 4 Arete at the mouth of the cave formed by the two blocks. Excellent technical traverse out of the cave and finish up the arete, 6a+. 8 Crimpnarris 7a The overhanging wall using the small crimp 9 Gully’s Problem 6b THE Scalp problem. From SS climb the overhanging face on sidepulls to a high topout. 10 Tree Chimney 5 Nice wall with a few big locks to jug to jug. Originally done back and footing up against the tree. 11 - P Roof, SS on the edge, hard move to the lip and then desperate mantle. 12 - 3+ Old school route. Might be loose towards the top. 13 5+ Arete of the long wall. Bit blind and tricky. 14 5+ Middle of the wall using the thin crack. 15 Dom’s Wall 5 Highball face, good landing some loose holds on this one? 16 Dark Angle 6a Start on the juggy sidepull and slap up the using the nice slopey arete. 17 - 5+ Low start up nice curving arete. (Start matching edges in middle of wall to slap right to continue up arete, 6c) 18 - 5 Nice slabby bulge. 19 Muppetree 7a+ SS. Climb the arete all the way rightwards with nice moves to a juggier top out.

24 Wicklow End

This area is quite overgrown, the trails marked are more like recommended routes than actual trails. However the boulders are big, close to the road and quite hard. Primer is the outstanding problem in this area and The Scalp, the Project Wall which is still to go is another great line.

1 Slababish P Steep start to the slab using the sidepull, use the big knob of quartz to get to the island. High but easy finish. 2 - 5 Step off the boulder to the ramp then follow it to the top. 3 - 5 Micro featured slab. 4 - P Left of arete 5 - P Start low in the break and up right of arete. 6 - 7a Steep boulder. Start from the edge. 7 Primer 7c Excellent left sloping curved arete to hidden flake on rib. The landing is slopey so bring something to anchor your pad. 8 - 6b+ Slab. Right of the arete is a project. 9 Diarmo’s wall P Recently unearthed boulder with a steeply overhanging face and blank rounded top. 10 - P Hanging arete Vdiff To the right of the previous problem is an interesting botanical route that climbs the front side of the boulder inside a tunnel of ivy. 11 - 7+ Long sharp rib. More like a route. 12 The Project Wall P Excellent technical climbing up the middle of the wall on edges and sidepull to finish leftwards into the scoop.

25 Rothery’s Rocks

This is the shadiest part of the Scalp and can be hard to get around but there are a few excellent problems worth searching out on the Tongue and Groove.

Keeping left of Plank Arete follow your nose up leftish past a fallen tree till you hit a wall of trees. The first 4 problems are here.

1 Tower Ridge 5+ Groove and arete. Quarry style.

The ivy covered block has 3 problems.

2 - P Wall. 3 - 5+ SS left arete. 4 - 6+ SS and traverse right and mantel.

Continue out into the opening where problems 5 to 14 are. Problems 15 to 27 are in the forest again

5 Pallet Project P Starting low on lip and side pull, move left and up nose. 6 - P Hanging arete. 7 - P - 8 - P SS at wobbly jug and up arete 9 - 5 Face. 10 Lippy 6b+ SS under roof, undercut and lip to finish left. 11 - 6b SS on right, sloping edges and over. 12 - 5+ Traverse right along top, project possible. 13 Breezebloc 6b+ Excellent left to right traverse along lip. Start hanging low, finish mantling on jug over lip. 14 - 5+ Very low steps. 15 - 6a SS left to right traverse on lip and up arete. 16 Hug’it 6c+ SS hugging the arete, side pull left and slap up arete. Very nice. 17 - P Very rounded hanging arete. 18 - 5 Lowball roof traverse. 19 Treesurgeon 6c Right to left lip traverse from low SS on edges finishing all the way left. 20 - 7a Reach left from start of Treesurgeon right through to lip where Treesurgeon finishes.

From the side this boulder looks like a narrow fin. The twelve foot high downhill face has a few nice problems and a good landing.

21 - 5 Left side of arete from low start. 22 - 5 Right of arete/ wall. 23 Tongue and Groove 5+ Really nice groove. 24 - 6a The crimpy face left of the arete and right of the groove to a slopey finish. 25 - P Right of steep hanging sharp arete.

The last two problems are out in the open.

26 - 6a+ SS on ledge and up arete. 27 - 5+ Hanging slabby arete from right.

26 Esoterica

Knocknagun

A small collection of problems about thirty minutes walk from the carpark. Worth combining with a walk on a summers evening. In the winter the ground gets very boggy, especially at the Tor.

Park on the military road and follow the track along the edge of the forest. Just before the quarry a small track leads across the hillside to the Mass rock its worth making an effort to find this from the start as it is easy going.

Mass Rock

The Mass Rock (O 164 184) is a rare feature sitting in isolation from other boulders and neither on the top of a hill nor the bottom of a valley. The right boulder was used for Mass back in the day.

1 - 4 Crimps on the face for the left and the arete for the right. 2 Botanic 4 A tricky first move, followed by some heather pulling. 3 Cyclops 5+ Excellent. The landing drops away a bit. Use the undercut and eye to gain the small edges. 4 - 4 Middle of the slab. 5 - P Holdless bridging up the faint groove. 6 - 5 A scary step up using the pocket. 7 - 3 The wall using the breaks.

Knocknagun Tor

The Knocknagun Tor (O 164 185) is a distant cousin of the Three Rock tors and is a popular lunch spot with walkers. Cloghnagun or “Stone of the dogs” is the old name for this tor.

The roof has a few interesting problems. Splodgedown 5 starts on the block under the very left hand side of the roof, using a few small crimps to get to the lip and mantel. The same finish can be reached traversing in from the right from a slopey SS 6a+.

The steep wall is covered in slopey horizontal breaks and there is plenty to play with on it.

The rounded slab has a traverse and a few very rounded topouts.

27 Milltown Bridge

Excellent traversing on the limestone blocks of the LUAS Bridge (a.k.a. The Nine Arches) over the River Dodder in Milltown. White Rock

The sea wall at White Rock in Killiney has a reasonable hundred metre traverse wall with a rocky landing. There is an excellent mantel on the slopey (manmade wall) to the right of the beach shelter. Howth

Limited and spread out. On the south side there is a small arch beside the Martello tower that is accessible at low tide. Ten minutes walk further east along the cliff path is a narrow alley that might offer a traverse or two at low tide. Apparently there are some roof problems inland near the golf courses on the summit.

28 Wicklow

Without a doubt, Wicklow has the best bouldering in Ireland. Glendalough with its density of classic problems, easy walk in and great setting is the most popular and arguably the best area in Wicklow and Ireland. It is also one of the few areas where you might meet other boulderers.

The heather hillside of Glenmacnass with its scattered boulders is further from the road than Glendalough, but is an excellent spot with a more adventurous feel.

The other smaller areas are all worth a visit and are in beautiful settings.

For information about where to stay and how to get to Wicklow see www.theshortspan.com/features/boulderinginglendalough.htm

Area Rock Walk in Number of < 4+ 5 - 6c+ > 7a Weather problems 1 Lough Bray Very rough 10 mins on boggy path, 15 5 6 4 Quite sheltered at 450m granite minor up and downhill. 2 Stonecutter’s Rough 20 mins, flattish, boggy. 25 10 11 4 Sheltered valley Glen granite 3 Cloghogue Rough 10 mins on boggy ground 28 8 16 4 Sheltered hillside at granite downhill. 300m 4 Lough Dan Rough 40 mins on good track, up 28 7 14 7 Sheltered hillside at granite and downhill (one river 250m crossing). 5 Carrigshouk Rough 1-5 minutes 20 ? ? ? Hillside at 400m granite 6 Glenmacnass Rough 40 mins, quite muddy, 81 14 43 24 Exposed hillside at 450m granite slightly uphill. 7 Mall Hill Granite 5 mins including stream 43 9 23 11 Sheltered felled hillside crossing. 250m 8 Annalecka Very rough Less than 5 mins on track. 55 20 28 7 Sheltered felled hillside granite at 300m 9 Wicklow Gap Granite From 1 to 20 mins uphill. 90 30 50 10 Exposed hillside at 300m 10 Glendalough Granite 25 mins on flat track. 155 55 80 20 Valley at 150m 11 Glenmalure Granite Various. 12 0 0 0 Some roadside, some hillside

29 Stonecutter’s Glen

Stonecutter’s Glen is a sheltered valley just east of Lough Bray, the setting is remote you are only likely to have deer or sheep for company.

The rock is rough granite and the boulders are spread throughout the valley and the best approach is probably to tackle the problems in the order they are detailed here.

The best way to approach Stonecutter’s Glen is to park where the road up to Kippure meets the Military Road which is about a kilometre south of the parking spot for the Lough Bray boulders. From the parking head east across boggy ground to reach the top of the Glen, it should take no more than twenty minutes.

Pierre Fuentes along with Tim Chapman, Michael Nicholson and Sean Walsh climbed two dozen problems in the Stonecutter’s Glen east of Lough Bray in Wicklow in ‘08

The Egg is the nice round boulder, problems 2 and 3 have awkward landings

1 - 3 Up the left hand side from the big jug 2 P The steep slab is ok to start using the flake but gets very blank. 3 The Egg 6a Hard initial pull on a high sloper, then top out using a rail for the left hand. 4 Bloody clawmarks 6b SS and up the rails. Much easier version to the left.

Split boulder

5 Mickey’s traverse 7a Low traverse left on the very slopey edge. 6 - 4 Mantle from the good jug. 7 - 5+ Traverse the top right. 8 - 5+ Straight up the face. Blank start. 9 The Razors Edge 7a+ SS Start in the middle the very small roof. Use the arete for the left and the edge for the right.

The Dice boulder has some rather sharp rock.

10 - 4 Arete left or right. 11 - 5 Use the crystal crimps to slap up – if you can reach them. 12 - 5+ Up the other round arete. SS project

The In My Wellies boulder has two problems the left hand side of the slab using the crack Not In My Wellies 3 and the slab right of the crack 4. The Wig might have one worthwhile problem to be done. The first two problems on the Arete Boulder have awkward sloping landings.

13 - P The slab using the good undercuts and small crystals to get the arete. 14 Gorillas in the mist 6b High start using a small crystal for the right hand and follow the arete with the left. 15 Bert’s rockover 5+ Rockover over onto the slab using the edge for the right hand. 16 - 3+ Slab left hand, climb the groove. 17 - 4 Slab right hand. 18 There’s been blood 6b Arete. SS from jammed fingers 6c. Excellent.

Tea break traverse 5+ traverses the boulder of the same name from left to right. The Stem Boulder doesn’t look like much but the overhanging side facing the stream had two steep problems.

18 - P The overhanging left arete. 19 Rif Raf 6b Deadpoint from the crimpy rail to the top and rockover.

The distinctive slab at the top of the valley has a great problem Soledad up the middle.

20 Rock it 4+ Step up the sloping ledge on the left arete and rockover to reach the break. 21 Soledad 6a Tricky start and up the middle of the slab, up the rails. Excellent and infuriating. 22 - 4 Slopey right arete. 30

31 Lough Bray

Upper Lough Bray (O 138 155) has an interesting circuit of problems on very rough granite by the dark peaty lake. Fresh off the boat, Andy Robinson spotted the boulders and climbing most of the problems in Spring '02. John Gaskins however beat him to the plum line of Away from the numbers.

Park at the carpark two kilometres south of Glencree on the military road beside the small quarry, and follow the path down the hill. It takes about ten minutes to reach the boulders, which are on the moraine beside the upper lake. There is a decent sized crag high on the lip of the corrie with some routes to be done.

1 - 7a Use the sharp arete for the right and the thin crack for the left, SS 7a. To the left is a slap off the sloper. 2 - 4+ SS reach up left from the small ramp to the sloping edge then move rightwards to the ledge via a jug. 3 - 4 SS, big holds up to the ledge. 4 Loose Tongue 6a SS after a hard initial pull from a strange tongue of rock, head right. 5 Away From The Numbers 7a+ The overhanging arete, start on the left and head to the base of the crack using the small edge, finish up the crack. 6 Choc ice 7a The slopey diagonal arete requires a committed leap. 7 Happy Days 4+ Start low on the right, traverse to and mantle the apex. 8 Micro Corner 3/6a Layback the arete from the right or use the breaks on the left. 9 - 4 Slab. 10 - 5+ A lockoff from the sharp crimp at head height rewards with an even sharper crimp 11 - 3+ Middle of the slab. 12 Velcro 5 Slap from the good sloper on the lip to the top. 13 Rainbow 7a Start on the undercuts under the roof, match the lip and follow the slopey rib all the way left. Better though to start from the low jug just left of problem 11 and traverse all the way left along the curving lip. 14 - 5+ Slap to the lip from the huge jug halfway along the ledge and pullover. 15 Easily Taken Away 5+ The groove, it’s possible to traverse into it along the line of huge jugs. The arete is Aerosmith 6a+.

32 Cloghogue

Cloghogue, also known as Ben’s Font is on the hillside above the Cloghogue River, upstream of Lough Tay.

There is parking for two cars on the Roundwood to Sally Gap road on the right hand side just past the last forest. From here its downhill into the valley for about ten minutes.

In early ‘06 Pierre Fuentes was tipped off by a walker friend about some boulders in the Cloghogue valley above Lough Tay and climbed the majority of the problems though Howard Hebblethwaite had been years before.

Riverside

Great setting beside the stream and amongst the oak trees. There are a few other minor problems on the other side of the stream.

1 - 5 Campus the jugs and top out. 2 Exfoliator 6c Campus the crimps at head height to a slopey top out. 3 - 5+ A vicious crank using the flake. 4 Sad punk 6b Lowball but interestingly slopey sit start. Start on the big ledge. Grab the slopey edge to the left and deadpoint on a good sloper on the right edge. Reach the top and rock over. 5 - 7a Arete. Jump start. 6 Pierre’s twins 6a+ Highball. Use the ramp to get the arete and follow it to the groove in the middle. 7 Watch Fatty Break This Hold Standing start on two undercuts and climb straight up the slab, passing an obvious sharp crystal. Landing can be damp. 8 The Altar 6a Start below the roof. Jam your right foot and pull on the crimps. Then mantelshelf. 9 Fresh cod and beans 4+ An uneasy move leads to a ramp going diagonally right. From there you can reach a second juggy ramp going diagonally left. 10 Dwarves’ Causeway 4+ Follow the nice ledgy steps up to the top. 11 - 4 Follow the arete 12 Male piwo 4+ Excellent mantle on the jug and slopey shelf. 13 - 6a Hang the slopey animal head and traverse around and up to the left. 33 Hillside

The hillside gets good sun and is sheltered from the wind with good views down to Lough Tay. There are more boulders further downriver amongst the trees.

The ground beneath problems 5, 6 and 7 can get a little marshy.

The Hobbiton wall is the first boulder you come to so is the best spot to warm up.

1 Loto 5+ Up the corner and ride the top. Trickier than it looks. 2 Andy’s sit start 7a SS with a foot locked in the big hole. Hard initial pull on a small diagonal ledge to reach the jugs and finish as for Crucifix. 3 - 6b Start from the big jug traverse the juggy crack. Finish as for Crucifix. 4 Crucifix 6c Same start, powerful traverse on the slopey lip with a strenuous mantelshelf finish. 5 - 4 Nice mantelshelf problem. 6 - 3/4+ The left hand side of the arete is easier and better than the right. 7 - 4+ Follow the seam up the middle of the slab. 8 Come out and play 7a+ Highball. Start on the corner using a juggy edge right hand and crystals left hand. Rock on left foot to reach a big undercut left hand. After having worked your feet up, an off- balance move leads to a good crimp right hand. Finish up the slab. 9 - P The direct of the face remains a project. 10 Allez les filles! 6a+ Jam your way up the diagonal crack to the chimney. From there a bit of footwork allows you to reach a huge jug right hand. Classic highball. 11 Arete proper 6b Follow the slopey arete to the right and top out on the slab crimps. 12 Allez le bœuf! 6a SS on the juggy spike. Then left up the slab. 13 Welcome to the suck 5+ Get on the ramp and follow it to the left corner. 14 Anti-climax 5+ The two parallel ramps lead to a vertical side pull. Tricky top out. 15 - 5 Middle of the slab. Excellent. 16 Nearly headless 6a Start right hand in the undercut and left hand on a sloper. Slap the arete and grab the jugs above. Finish up following the arete. Watch your head.

34 Lough Dan

There is a good collection of problems on the hillside at the top of Lough Dan (O 141 045) in a beautiful setting on rock similar to that of Glenmacnass. The two classic problems well worth seeking out are Shadow and Karma. The Lough Dan midges are particularly vicious, so keep away on still summer evenings.

Follow the signs for Lough Dan from Roundwood. There are two good parking spots just before and just after the scout centre. After crossing the small bridge near the end of the road, the gate is about fifty metres up the hill on the right. The two best places to ford the Inchavore River are marked on the map.

In summer the ferns can grow overhead height here, making getting from boulder to boulder almost impossible.

35 Left

The left hand side is good when the ferns are low i.e. not June/July/August. The standout problem is Shadow.

The Snack 6a SS then rising traverse on quartz/mica seam. - 4+ Direct finish to The Snack. 1 - P Overhanging prow with a slopey topout. 2 - 4 Awkward squirming crack in the corner. 3 Worm Dyke VS Follow the quartz seam up centre of the slab. 4 Crack Of Gloom 6a+ Short overhanging crack from SS on the right hand side of the boulder. 5 Ripper Traverse 6a Traverse the block from right to left starting on the low jug, or more strenuously from low around the corner at 7a. 6 - P Overhanging wall. 7 - P Hard face climbing above an uneven landing. 8 - P Futuristic hanging prow. 9 Shadow 6b Undercut the crack to get to the huge jug, top out slightly to the left. Fantastic and bold. One of the classic problems of Wicklow. 10 Doc Bloc 6b The arete to the right of Shadow. Might be a bit morpho. 11 - P This wall has potential for two problems in the 4/5 range. 12 - 5 Hidden from view over the top of the crag is a triangular shaped boulder with a slab on the left on crispy edges, the arete on the right hand side is also worth a look. 13 Diarmuid’s problem 6a+ Slap to the top using the crack for the left and sloper for the right. 14 - P Traverse the thin crack. 15 Eat the pudding 5+ The face using the two aretes. Highball.

36 Right

The river is deep here so the best approach is to ford upriver.

Karma 6a Starts in the pit on the downriver side of the boulder; you can either start low on edges and slap to the sloper, or just jump for the sloper and slap to the top 5. - 6a The slopey arete to the left of Karma is a good tussle and finishes as for Karma. - 4 Right arete on the uphill side of the boulder. Wet Eireann 4+ The square block about 20m uphill of Karma. Nice line up the corner on the left of the front face. Tony’s Arete 6b Amazing highball arete. - 5+ The groove in middle of the steep wave. - 4 SS on the right hand side that follows the jugs. Driving Seat 6a+ SS under the roof on the left hand side, the landing is rocky and two pads are handy. The high slab to the right might have a decent problem. - 3+ The arete on the back is a nice one move wonder. Ped’s Patio 5+ On the up valley face of boulder, Start on the overhanging face slap to the slopey lip and move left to a tricky topout. There are few easy problems on the back and hard projects on the face. Beef to the Heel 5+ Traverse the waist high roof from left to right, finish using the sidepull flake. White Rock P Tall slabby face with a very obvious groove line up the right. Highball.

37 Glenmacnass

About four kilometres upstream from Glenmacnass waterfall, is a heather hillside strewn with granite boulders. The valley has a wilderness feel and many classic problems. The landings are good, though the ground can get quite marshy under some problems, so a tarp is very useful to keep one’s pad dry. The rock is rougher with a larger grain compared to Glendalough and the friction is excellent.

The best approach is to park at the side of the road beside the sheep pens (O 104 035) (if you are coming from Laragh the sheep pens are just before the forest on the left), and follow the track between the forest and the river until you reach the boulders. Should take around 30-45mins. The walk in is quite pleasant along a narrow track beside the stream. After damp weather it can be muddy in places so decent boots are to recommended.

The first recorded bouldering in Glenmacnass was by Dave Flanagan and Michael O’Dwyer thanks to a tip off from Kev Byrne in Winter ’00.

Sad and Lonely Boulder

The Sad and Lonely Boulder (O 106 039) is a satellite of the main Glenmacnass boulders, it’s about 200 metres north east of the parking spot. It’s handy for a passing visit, but be warned the ground between it and the road gets boggy. This boulder was first climbed on by Andy Griffith a few years before the bouldering on the other side of the valley where discovered.

1 - 4 Excellent corner. 2 - 5 The face using the undercut. 3 - 5 Follow the arete. The SS is 7a. 4 Billy no mates 6c Low start going leftwards to meet the arete. There is also a variation that mantles from straight up via the good edge. 5 - 5+ A small hop helps to start. 6 Traverse Of Death 6b The slopey low arete.

Further downstream from the parking spot – about 0,.75km - on the west side of the river is a rounded boulder with a vaguely possible but very slopey line up the centre. The left arete is Smash n’Grab 6a+.

38 Flaming Tips Boulder

The Flaming Tips Boulder (O 095 043) is about one kilometre downriver from the Riverside boulder and visible about ten metres into the forest. On the other side of the river, next to a small stream, is a cluster of boulders with an obvious crack; the left hand boulder has a short gritstonesque arete.

1 - 4 Easy stepped ramp needs a brush. 2 Scoopydo 6b From the obvious scoop reach left and finish direct. 3 Pink Robots 6a Straight up from SS via faint sidepull/rib. 4 Yoshimi 7a Straight up from SS. 5 - 4 Up groove from standing or SS.

Solidarity

The large boulder (O 089 043) in the elbow of the river with the heather hat contains one of the best boulder problems in Wicklow. Solidarity is the blindingly obvious arete, the left hand side is 7a and the right is 6c. Andy Robinson did the first ascent in a rush before the impending visit of hordes of wads for the first bouldering meet. The quartz seam on the left is I Calcium as I Caesium 7b, and the slab to the right of the arete at the back is Fifteen Pebble Slab 5+. Sector 1

The Rasher boulder is good for a physical workout though the landings can get a bit boggy after rain.

The Wow Prow is still unclimbed despite the attentions of some very talented climbers.

Further up the slope, just before the crest of the ridge and hidden in a hollow, is the P.E.D boulder.

1 - P Rising traverse from a SS of the arete. 2 John’s Problem 6b SS to the short rib. 3 - P Dyno off the low edge. 4 The Shroud 6b Fingery slap to the quartz finger ledge, then a big move up and left gets the top. 5 Wow Prow P Impressive and very fingery. 6 - P A Fontainebleau style jump to the big two handed sloper; the steep SS is for the next generation. 7 Happy Days 5 Nice arete. Descend by jumping onto the slab around the back. 8 Domestos 5+ Slab. 9 Yo Mamas A 6c+ Start the arete on the right, rock out left after a few moves. Pajama 10 - P Traverse the rail. 11 Easy Street 5 Arete. 12 The Mongol 4 Highball slab. 13 - P Jump start. 14 Rasher 6c Traverse the slopey lip from left to right, serious stamina required. 15 Full Irish 6b SS from the edge, follow the arete left, and mantle using the slopey boss. Bacon starts as for Full Irish but continues leftwards along the lip (7a). 16 - 7c Steep SS using obvious edge. 17 Pro Bono 6c SS the arete, nice holds. 39 Sector 2

The most popular area. The Tombstone Arete is the classic granite arete, blind, slappy and very falloffable. The two Dice boulders have a good concentration of problems, making them a good spot to warm up Le Joker is the pick of the bunch.

1 - 4 Traverse the top of the square boulder. 2 The Psalm Shuffle 4+ Shuffle strange and awkward ascending traverse. 3 Tombstone Arete 6b Classic slopey arete. Harder than it looks like it should be. 4 Tombstone face 7a Tricky deadpoint from very small holds. 5 Pond Weed 5+ A tricky palm move to finish. 6 - 6a Arete. 7 - 6c Hard slap to the apex. 8 - 4+ Excellent smeary slab moves. 9 - 6a+ SS squeezing the arete. Easier than it looks. 10 Right Angle 5+ Steep roof. 11 Zen Flute Left 5+ Vertical arete from SS. 12 Zen Flute Right 4+ Traverse the arete from right to left. 13 - P Traverse the juggy break, tricky mantle at the end? 14 - P Next generation dyno up the middle of the face. 15 - 6a+ Start on jug use slopey arete to slap for goodish slanting hold 16 - 6a Very high step using side pull. 17 - 3 Easiest way up and down. 18 - 4+ Great moves up the centre of slab. 19 Le Joker 6b From the sidepulls make a delicate lunge to the sloper. 20 - P Hard. Use the small edge and rib to somehow get the top. 21 - 5 Through the small roof. 22 - 4 Trend left. 23 La Baleine 6a+ Slopey topout from the sidepull. Easiest way off is to jump from here. 24 Monkey Burger 7b Big slap to sloper from SS. 25 - 5 Traverse arete from SS. 26 - 5+ Arete. 27 Andy's Problem 6b Burly SS.

40 Sector 3

Two fine boulders with some great mid-grade problems. The heather hat on the downhill boulder is a very comfortable perch, with a fine view down the valley.

Gingerbread and Fiontar are excellent.

1 - 4+ Slab. 2 Gingerbred 6a+ Rockover on the edge. 3 Fiontar 6a Smear up the scoop and inch towards the top. Classic. 4 Off The Couch 5+ The steep line using the quartz edges. 5 - P Traverse the unusual quartz rock from left to right and finish up the arete. 6 - P Easy arete followed by a tussle with the vegetation to get to the couch. 7 Lip Service P SS finishing up the corner with some great moves. 8 Andy's Sit Start 6b Not repeated since a foothold broke. 9 - P Small slab. Sector 4

The Nemesis boulder is the biggest in the valley and has some impressive high problems.

At the top of the valley, Lugadroohaun (O 081 055), ‘The Hollow of the Misfortunate Person', has a few problems; the only one of real note is Lucky Me 5+ (SS 6b). This takes the obvious overhanging prow, which lies next to the path that runs along the top of the moraine. Those looking for projects can find an awesome arete in amongst a pile of very large boulders.

It’s also worth mentioning that there is a rather large slab on the back wall of the valley that might be of interest to an adventurous route climber in fact it has already seen some interest but no ascent.

1 Shelter From The Storm 6b Balancy layback of the hanging arete. 2 - 2 Descent route. 3 Nemesis P Long and hard slopey arete, best to mantle out after a few moves 5+. 4 Smokey And The Bandit 6b+ Brilliant line. The left hand side of the arete; use the sloper for the left, finish direct. 5 - 4 Centre of the slab with a great fingertip mantle to finish, has a rocky landing. 6 Sweetness 6c Wall right of the arete. 7 - P Arete traverse. 8 - 4 Slab (interesting without the good hold). 9 The Guru 6c SS from good foothold and side pulls, then delicately up and right with small jump to slopey mantel 10 El Presso 5 Mantel. 11 - P Roof. 12 Shark’s Fin 6b+ SS below the overhanging fin; slap and grunt your way straight up. Small but fun. 41 Carrigshouk

Carrigshouk is the rounded mountain covered with slabs north of Glenmacnass waterfall. There are some good low beginner style problems very close to the road.

On the right of the hill is a large boulder with an impressive arete, the left hand goes at about 6b, the right hand side of the arete is unclimbed and the dyno up the middle of the face to the right is 5+.

On the left of the hillside below the crag is a vertical wall, Ice9 is the big dyno from the midway break to the top. Gully Block

The Gully Block is probably the biggest freestanding boulder in Wicklow, definitely one of the most impressive.

It was discovered by Olivier Rovellotti and Michael Duffy way back in early 2006.

The walk is boggy and there may only br one established problem – the highball Bullet – climbed by PeterTom McMahon in 2007 - but this is a boulder for the connoisseurs.

1 - P Start in the crack and follow the slopey arete right. 2 Bullet 5+ The centre of the slab, start is hardest. High. 3 - P Arete, highball. 4 - P There might not be enough holds on the steep wall. 5 - P Few easy warmup problems on the quartz face.

42 Mall Hill

The forest at Mall Hill was clear-felled in 2004 revealing some very clean white granite boulders with some excellent problems most of which were climbing in a few stolen mornings by Dave Flanagan, Diarmuid Smyth and Kevin Byrne. The going between boulders can be quite difficult, as there is a lot of wood still lying on the ground that gets treacherous when wet.

It is now possible to access the boulder by walking across the field beside the telegraph pole and wading or jumping across the river.

Before Mall Hill coming from Laragh on the right is a boulder with an excellent problem up the middle Silent Valley 6a.

In 2007 the foresters continued the cutting that revealing the left area.

Forest

There are a few excellent problems hidden in the forest, the pick of the bunch is Living The Dream. It can be difficult finding the boulders, but the setting is unusual and the rock is good. Don’t bother entering the forest in the summer if it’s warm and still.

Deep into the forest is a very nice boulder, Heart of Darkness, with a hard Fontainebleau style rounded topout project on the right and a slopey 5+ Stickmata that starts on the left and use the vertical flake to topout. To get to the boulder walk down the valley along the track, just past the wooden hut head into the forest following a firebreak uphill until the boulder looms.

1 - P Up the groove to reach the crack. Hard. 2 Strictly Ballroom P SS on the sidepull then follow the arete right. 3 Coup d’etat 6c Big slap on the right arete from the sidepull up to the sloping ledge. 4 Living The Dream 6b Reach straight to the finger jug over the overlap (or slap to it from the small crimps) and make committing and dynamic moves to top. 5 - P The almost vertical wall has a horizontal crack running along it. 6 - P The high slab needs cleaning, won’t be hard. 7 - 3+ Groove. 8 Licking The Spoon 6a Slopey arete. 9 - P Crimpy wall. 10 The Small Matter Of Up 6a Arete avoiding the ledge on the left has a slopey topout.

43 Right

1 Knife 5 Tallest part of the face. 2 Fork 4+ Up the groove. 3 Spoon 4+ Slabby arete on better rock. 4 - P Slab above the two large logs. 5 - 4 Arete trickiest at the start. 6 Before The Rains Came 6b Dynamic start move to reach the crimp ledge. 7 - 5 Crimpy sharp face. 8 - P SS left of the crack. 9 - 5 Steep crack contains good jugs 10 A-Bomb 5+ Excellent double arete; SS from the jug on the right. 11 The Isotopes 5+ Campus, or heel hook leftwards along the lip 12 - P SS right arete 13 - 5 Very nice crack. 14 - P The centre of the leaning wall covered in quartz crimps. 15 - 4 Easy slab 16 - P The high wall. 17 Mall Rats 6b+ Impressive arete. SS is a project. 18 - 4 Slab is a harder line just left of the arete. 19 - 5 Mantel the jug, the slappy rib to the left is also worth a look. 20 - P Amazing slopey hard project that could finish leftwards up the arete. 21 - 5 Gently layback the flake. The easy crack to the right serves as the descent. 22 Flicking The Bean 6a+ On the uphill side of this boulder is a small roof, this problem takes the right hand side using some sneaky and weird moves. 23 Gone Fission 6b Slab mantel on nothings. 24 - 3 Gentle but exposed padding up the slabby rib. 25 Dead Beat 6a Absolutely perfect granite arete. There is a harder similar problem to the right. 26 Brown Suede Shoes 6a Palming on the slab. 27 Yosemite Arete 4+ Classic slopey arete. 28 Yosemite Sit Start 6a Powerful SS on the opposing slopers.

44 Left

To the left of the main area and below the forest are a few recently exposed boulders. There is a boulder with a problem that goes up the curved face starting from the stream. The block marked mantle has an interesting lowball mantelshelf and a nice face to the right.

This big block has a distinctive undercut slab and an attractive overhanging wave on the side.

1 - 5+ Powerful sit start using the pocket, there is an easier variation that uses the arete. 2 - 3 The left hand side of the slab using the big quartz holds. Would be harder up the middle. 3 - P Traverse the very slopey lip of the slab and top out as for the next problem. 4 - 6b Start under the roof on the slopey ledge and mantle the lip of the roof. Fierce. 5 Dublin-Beauvais 6b Dyno from the crack (few variations) can be done static using the small edges. 6 Piece de Resistance 6b The arete with slopey topout. The easiest line

is mostly right of the arete.

Diagonally down towards the river is another boulder with a few nice problems.

1 - 4 Left hand side of arete using the side pulls. 2 Chigaray Arete 6a+ Arete on right hand side. 3 - P Use the vague holds on the rib. 4 - 4+ Slab getting started is the crux.

There are a few more boulders scattered around this area.

45 Wicklow Gap

From a bouldering point of view the long valleys of Wicklow Gap can be divided into 3 areas, the east end is Glendasan, the middle is Wicklow Gap and west end is Annalecka.

46 Glendasan

Glendasan has some fine problems, though never in any great concentration. The rock is similar to Glendalough and the style is highly varied. The open valley is quite exposed, so it can be a good alternative to Glendo when the midges are out or if it’s greasy. For the car-less, it’s possible to walk up to the lower boulders from Glendalough, following St. Kevin’s Way for about forty minutes.

Just before Christmas ’03, John Gaskins climbed Darkness before the Dawn on the Tank boulder in Glendasan - an amazing line up the steep and blank face and the hardest boulder problem in Ireland.

The Tank in Glendasan has been climbed on for years, but it was the discovery of other boulders, like The Starting Block and Electric Mountain close by, that made Glendasan valley an interesting, if slightly spread out, destination.

High up on the slopes of Camaderry is Back to Black 6b. Follow the miner’s track past the Tank, pass the spoil heaps on the right, the boulder is on the right and looks innocent enough from the track. Back to Black, Peter Tom McMahon first ascent, takes the steep arete from a SS to a slopey awkward topout. There are more problems to done around here.

Upper Camaderry crag

There is a wall (O 095 975) high on the slopes of Camaderry with a few futuristic lines to be done, though high with bad landings. On the walk in is a nice looking dome shaped slab. Mention the other stuff here, Mantle problem beside shaft, and SS problem near road.

Saint Kevin’s Crack

To get to Saint Kevin’s Crack (O 091 998), turn off the road at the sign for St. Kevin’s Way and follow the rough-but-drivable track until you reach the stream; the boulder is a few boggy minutes upstream from here.

1 St. Kevin’s Crack 5 The crack from standing is a one move wonder, but the real challenge is the undone SS. 2 - 4+ Use a pinch, sloper and undercut to reach the jugs. 3 Astral Glide 6b Start from the edge and use the arete to slap to the top. Brilliant.

47 Glendasan Southside

The south side of Glendasan valley has a good circuit of boulders, a good amount of very accessible easier problems.

Starting Block

The Starting Block has a fine slab covered in horizontal breaks - ideal for a beginning boulderer or for a quick warm-up.

1 - 5+ Good sitstart on edges. 2 - 5 Use the edges to slap to the jug then rockover. SS is 6a+. 3 - P Desperate start. 4 - 4+ Delicate start. 5 Busy With A Vision 3 The centre of the slab. 6 - 3 Arete.

The Tank

The steep sides of the Tank are home to some hard problems and projects; including the hardest problem in Ireland, John Gaskins’ Darkness Before The Dawn.

1 Faith in Lichen 6c Jump to the base of the groove, muscle over the top and then highball up the groove. 2 - P SS on slopey edges leads to a good flake on the lip, followed by another strenuous topout. 3 Darkness 8a+ Start where the y crack diverges follows this right Before The to a ‘good’ hold, and then slap from this to the lip. Dawn 4 - P High arete finished with a dynamic slap. 5 - 7b SS on edges leads to the double aretes.

48 St Kevin's Slab

About fifty metres down the road from the carpark on the right hand side is the perfect St Kevin's Slab.

1 St. Kevin’s Slab 5+ Excellent slab, direct to the apex is about 6a+. 2 - 4+ Right hand side of the arete. 3 - 5+ Good holds to mantle onto slopey ledge. 4 - 6a Tricky moves using a mono, feels high.

The King’s Boulder

The King’s boulder doesn’t look like much from a distance but has 3 nice problems. The King’s Arete 6a+ is a nice smearing problem up the left arete, Christ's Crux of Friction 5+ takes the middle of the face using the horizontal crack, to the jug to the flake, Too Itchy 4 is the right arete finishing as for the previous problem.

River Slabs Boulder

The River Slabs boulder, has two nice if a little short slab problems on its downhill side, Shit Stained Socks 3+ is left hand line, Slabbed In the Back 4+ is just to the right using the small crimps. There is also a low SS to the right.

Vulture Rock

Vulture Rock is the ugly blocking looking boulder and it has two problems, Under the Wing 5 Sit start under overhang to gain the slab. Lovely problem and Barney Rubble's Step Up 5 Sit Start to the left of the crack and over the nose, just right of Under The Wing.

2rocks

Further up the hillside are two more boulders the Lip boulder 6a traverses the lip of the smaller left hand boulder. Heart Flutter 5+ goes straight up the obvious triangular face of the right hand boulder from under the vertical crack, the arete on the right is a project.

Stay Classy

If you follow the new St. Kevin’s Way path from the mining village to the bottom hill where the stone stairs end. To your right is the Stay Classy boulder beside the fence. The left arete is the awkward Ron Burgundy Arete 5 and the centre of the wall is Jazz Flute 5 which uses some very nice slopey edges.

49 Glendasan Northside

New boy Ciaran Mulhall added to the problems in the Glendasan Valley. Square Arete, 4+, the very obvious square arete climbed on the right hand side in the scree beside the hazel tree. At the bottom edge of the scree is a boulder with vertical face, the left side of the boulder is quartz. Climb the front face using the small corner at 4. AK47 P is on the overhanging face of the boulder close to the road. Conquistadors of the Pointless, 6a, is on the obvious boulder just to the right of the sand, SS the down valley side of the boulder.

1 - 4 Left hand side of the high slab. 2 - 4+ Middle of the slab using the slopey veins. 3 Ped’s Crack 5 Sketchy layback of the crack. 4 - P Very steep overhanging crack. 5 Behind the lines 6a+ SS the overhanging wall. 6 - P The slightly overhanging wall is covered with small loose quartz holds. 7 - P The arete of the high wall, the problems on this wall are marred by the slopey grassy landing. 8 - P Crack to arete. The right arete could go as well. 9 Crater Face 4+ Chipped slab in mine entrance. 10 - 5 Mantle the lip. 11 So it goes 6b Long dyno from the middle holds at the bottom of the slab/face to the good holds directly above. Goes to the right as well 12 - P SS the steep face using the blocky quartz holds.

Moby Brick

The Whale (O 103 984) is the very rounded blob a bit of a walk up the hill. Might be a good place to practise those slopey topouts before a visit to Font.

1 Step right up 4+ The overlapping slab on the west face of the boulder. 2 Cold Feet 5 The overhanging east face, straight forward but worrying - the landing is uneven - slap from the sidepulls to the big jug. 3 - 4+ North face, pull to the lip on the nice incut edges. 4 - P Downhill slab, tricky start to the undercut slab.

The Whale

The Whale (O 103 984) is the very rounded blob a bit of a walk up the hill. Might be a good place to practise those slopey topouts before a visit to Font.

1 - 4 Easy corner. 2 - 6b Smeary slab. 3 - P Ultra slopey moves from the good diagonal flake.

50 Lough Nahanagan

Above the ESB buildings on the hillside is an outcrop with a very prominent crack splitting the face. There is a hard project on the right hand side.

On the lake shore of Lough Nahanagan (the lower lake of Turlough Hill) is a big boulder, the shorter arete from a sit start, is Under the wire 5, the slap from the good sidepull on the overhanging face is Sketch 5+. Bear in mind that this boulder is on private land behind a fence.

The path continues from the ESB road to Turlough hill around the lake and ends at a pier, the hillside above here has a few problems and has been explored before, one less than five minutes uphill from the pier is a boulder with a distinctive diagonal crack, Neon Orange climbs this using a pinch, 6a and is very nice indeed.

51 Forest

52 Electric Mountain (O 078 993) and the forest behind are well worth visiting as part of the Glendasan circuit. This is ESB land, so it’s best to park the car outside the main gate, then walk and try to be discreet. There are some small jutting roofs on the back of Electric Mountain with a few minor problems.

1 - 5 Sugary slab right of the arete. 2 Death Arete 5 Highball arete. 3 Resistance 6c The wall with the orange scar. 4 - 5+ Traverse the slopey arete to a graceless finish up the rib (can SS). 5 - 4 Traverse the top of the block.

Michael Duffy climbed a load of problems in the Forest at Lough Nahanagan over the course of 2008. In the most part these boulders are of high quality granite in a very pleasant forest setting, reminiscent of Magic Wood. It probably fair to say that most of the problems are on the low side but if you can get over that there is some good bouldering to be done here.

6 - 4+ Slab mantle the slopey lip. 7 - 4 Nice sharp arete. 8 Lip Service 6c SS the blunt arete and traverse right across lip to finish up nose. Excellent. The deeper start is 7a. 9 Sans des mains 5 The slab without hands. 10 Fragility 6a SS from the fragile flake. Bit of a fight. 11 - P Arete from SS, low but very slopey topout. 12 - 3+ Centre of the small boulder, looks easy. 13 - 5 Slab problem using the long sidepull has to be an eliminate to get the best out of it. 14 Side Winder 6b+ Right side of the arete. Excellent. 15 - 4 Needs a clean. 16 - P Very steep uphill wall of perched boulder. This looks worthwhile from a standing start, needs a good clean. 17 - 4 Right side of the slab, there are a few options here. 18 Rimshot 5+ The centre of the left slab, thin padding. Mantle the juggy or step onto it from the boulder behind. 19 - 5+ Another quite clean slab. Not too long. 20 - P Is this the arete with the rocky landing? 21 Project Arete P Arete, needs lots of pads for this one. 22 Sloppy Beef 6b+ SS the blunt arete and finish straight up. Excellent. 23 - 6b+ Low slopey lip traverse. 24 - 4 Right arete. 25 - 7c Left arete. 26 - 4 Easy problem. 27 Neon Lights P SS under roof with a foot lock on rear block & undercut. Slap to lip, up vertical rail, knee on. Excellent. Neon 6b+ is the standing start. 28 - 5 Awkward left arete 29 - - Steep SS 30 Fatblunt 6c SS right of arete with foot on bloc, slap right and straight up. Excellent The SS without the bloc might go. 31 Thin Blue Line P Traverse the slopey lip of the slimy wall.

Pascal’s Boulder is a bit away from the other in a clearing on the edge of the forest.

32 - P Mantel or traverse past the crack into the next problem. 33 - P Scoop using the sharp edge to topout. 34 - P Middle of the slab looks like a very blank topout. Turlough Hill and Fair Mountain

West of the reservoir on the top of Turlough Hill are a few outcrops and boulders. The approach up the ESB road from Lough Nahanagan takes about half an hour. There are some rare mountain plants on these cliffs so please don’t remove any vegetation.

53 Annalecka

When Annalecka was first discovered the area was forested however in 2007 the tree were felled, this has opened up the area nicely, the views are good and the boulders dry quicker. Most of the problems are on outcrops rather than boulders, some are highball and most are in the 4/5/6 range.

The Annalecka boulders are located on the western side of the Wicklow Gap. Coming from Laragh, travel over the Gap and descend down the western side. The second barred forestry trail on your left is the best place to park. Coming from Hollywood drive up the valley until you are clear of any houses and you can see the Gap and the ESB pylons. The landscape on the right will be recently planted on felling debris and it will change from this to large mature pines just at the corner. The barred forest trail is just after this corner on the right. The walk in to the first climbing is only a minute or two from the car.

Over the winter of ’07 Seamus Crowley developed the bouldering on the west side of Wicklow this is now known as Annalecka. In an ironic twist shortly after Seamus have cleaned and climbed the bulk of the problems, the forest came and clean felled the forest changing the character of the area hugely.

54 Top

1 - P Short slab, hard to start. 2 Bloody Hell 6a SS the slopey arete. 3 Jump 4 Left line. 4 Hop 4 Right line. 5 Skip 5 Traverse. 6 Diarmuid’s Slapper 5+ Jump. 7 Sham’s Slapper 4 The SS is a project. 8 West Roof 5 Straight up the middle of the small roof. 9 West Slab 5 Start just left of the crack and head diagonally left. 10 West Crack 4 The crack. 11 Inside Corner 5 The larger corner on the left. 12 Outside Corner 4 The smaller corner on the right. 13 Way of the tree 5 Right of the arete. 14 - 4 Face to the right, loads of ways up this wall. 15 - 4 Right hand side of the face, start on the big jug, very nice. 16 Cheops P The centre of the high slab. 17 Chicken Run 4 The arete has plenty of holds. 18 Half Dome 5+ Excellent highball up the face. 19 Just do it 5+ Even better problem, start on the good hold in the face and make a delicate move to the good sidepull. 20 Slab 5 The line of least resistance is pretty much up the middle of the slab using the small crystals. 21 Welly crack 3 Should be done in wellies for authenticity. 22 Eeny 4 Left hand side of the face below the short crack. 23 Meny 4 Start below the huge jug. 24 Miny 4 The large crack. 25 Moe 5 The sidepulls just to the right of the crack. 26 Ghost 6a Just left of the crack on small crystals.

55 Bottom

The Bottom is just below the Top! There are a few minor outcrops marked on the map below. But the main event is the Sadhbh’s Tree boulder which no longer has its tree though the base is still obvious.

1 The Wave P The vague crack might go with considerable difficulty. 2 Green Fingers 5 The juggy face. 3 Green Crack 5 The juggy crack. 4 Ivy 4 Go up to the good sidepull from the ledge. 5 Mossy 4 From the ledge. 6 Hashy 4 The face around the corner. 7 Return of the Sithe/ 5/6b/6b Start on the lowest break above the small roof, from there you can head left, Sadhbh Menace/ straight up or slap up and right to the jug. Sadhbh Wars 8 Dodgy Taboo 6b Approach the jug from the right. 9 Sadhbh Strikes Back 5 Start from the small pocket and slap up. 10 Michelin Star 6b SS the arete and avoid the cracks at mid height. Sadhbh Boulder

The Sadhbh Boulder is in a nice setting at the edge of the forest beside the stream. There might be a few sit start problems around the back as well.

Head along St Kevin’s Way till the forest starts again on the right then bushwhack down to the boulder.

1 Easy rider 4+ Easy crack that sometimes seeps. 2 Sadhbh’s Way 6c Great line starting from the small edges and reaching to the sharp pocket. 3 Dark side of the Sadhbh 6a Start up the crack and step delicately across the X shaped seam to finish up the left arete (left arete direct looks hard).

Down river of the Sadhbh Boulder is the Sadhbh Too Boulder, there are two lines Windy Grove 5 the left line and Foxy Lady 5+ the right line.

56 Glanakeera Rock

In Glanakeera Valley, which leads from the top of Turlough Hill around Fair Mountain to the King’s River, are a few boulders, including one monster called Glanakeera Rock (O 067 001); however the approach is long and marshy.

1 Crack cradle 6a+ Dynamic move from the incut break. 2 Glanakeera Roof 5+ Easy start then over the little roof. 3 - 5 Nice slab. 4 - 5 Lovely mantle, same finish as previous problem.

Further around the slope is another boulder that is probably worth a look seeing as you have come this far.

1 - 5+ Slopey arete. 2 - P Direct line. 3 Yellow Snow 5+ Nice diagonal crack. 4 - 5+ Arete.

Further around again is another boulder worth a visit.

1 - 4+ The arete on the left hand side. 2 - 4+ The arete on the right. 3 - P Sidepull and small footholds might lead to the ledge just below the top. 4 P Dynamic start to slopey finish. 5 - 6a+ Excellent problem from the leftmost ledge using the right hand sidepull to a very slopey topout. 6 4+ Easy mantle from the good ledge.

Further around the hillside in the next valley is an excellent boulder high up in a gully on the called Art’s Boulder.

57 Glendalough

Glendalough (The glen of two lakes) is a beautiful valley, about one hour drive south of Dublin in the Wicklow Mountains. The bouldering is centred on the old mining village above the upper lake on beautiful coarse granite, and the problems tend to be technical, slopey and not too steep. There is a range of over a hundred problems from scrambling to desperate 8a’s, with quality spread throughout. Some of the problems in the scree have bad landings, though a pad and a spotter can tame all but the very worst.

To get to Glendalough from Dublin take the N11 south. After twenty kilometres, you turn left at Kilmacanogue (back over the overpass) for Glendalough. Follow the signs for Glendalough through the villages of Roundwood and Annamoe, then after the bridge in Laragh turn right, go past the hotel and park in the carpark where the road ends. Follow the path along the north side of the upper lake.

Though on the edge of the hills, showers tend to come and go suddenly, so it’s worth sitting it out in one of the many caves; because if there’s a decent wind, the rock will dry in minutes on many of the problems. It’s worth remembering that the sun doesn’t reach the valley floor from November through to late February.

"Bouldering of a sort has been going on at Glendalough for the best part of fifty years…nothing like the intensity that is happening now" Joss Lynam 58

This isn’t surprising when you think that any climbers heading for the crag in Glendalough would have to walk by almost two kilometres of boulders. By the end of the Eighties, most of the easy obvious lines around the Ruins and the Path in Glendalough were done by the likes of Howard Hebblethwaite, Steve Young, Donal O'Murchu, Jimmy Leonard, Paul McHugh, Joe Mulhall and others; including classics such as The Plum, Original Route, Greg’s Problem (done in ’89 by Greg Lowe) and The Überhang.

In the Nineties, bouldering became a more popular and accepted part of climbing and people started to become aware of the potential under their noses. It’s not really known where the fine boulder by the stream in Glendalough got the name Big Jim, but it probably originated from D.I.T. mountaineering club around '96. In ’97, Three Rock became popular with Michael Duffy and the Rooney brothers. The invention of bouldering pads made bouldering a bit safer; though Joe Purser and James Gernon did The Rails in the summer of '98 without such luxuries. Pascal Battault and Michael Duffy did White Arrow in the scree utilizing Pascal's homemade duct tape pad. Andy Griffith climbed the problems on the Tripod boulder, plus Dell Boy among others in ‘98.

Glendalough had a few strong visitors from across the water in ’00, including Mark Croxall who climbed Mark’s Slab beside The Fin, and John Gaskins (on the first of many visits) who did a few of the harder problems, including The Nu Rails SS and The Egg SS. Andy Crome on a visit from the UK climbed the popular Andy's Arete. Michael O'Dwyer got up very early one morning in January ‘03 to do The Fin SS in Glendalough. Barry O'Dwyer and Al Sarhan continued hunting out more steep, powerful problems such as Chillax and Quality Control. The Hidden Groove boulder in Glendo was blitzed by Dave Ayton one day in ‘04 February.

Crackland, deep in the scree of Glendalough, was developed in April after a weekend visit from the North Wales Mafia; thus bringing the number of problems in the valley to about one hundred. Although most of the obvious problems in Glendo have been climbed, there is still plenty of potential on the south side of the river and higher up the scree slopes on the north side. In ’08 more new problems were climbed in Glendo, the push continuing deeper into the scree.

59 Tripod Area

The Miner’s Path Boulder has a nice prow 6a+ on the uphill side and two problems on the slabby front face.

To the right of the scree is a worthwhile problem on the uphill side of two boulders leaning against each other, Crimp to it 6a is a crimpy move to a juggy ledge and top out. There a few other problem on the boulders in this cluster.

This Tripod is about one hundred metres past the forest on the right. It’s bigger than it looks from the path and can be hidden slightly by ferns in the summer. It’s an excellent spot to warm up on the way to boulders further up the valley.

1 The Block 5 Slab without the aretes. 2 The Mantelshelf 3+ Leftward trending arete on good holds. 3 TheLongReach.com 6a Interesting smearing to reach the crimp. 4 - 5+ The right arete using the undercuts. 5 - 5 The left arete. 6 3+ Reach from the edge to the shelf. 7 The Seam 5+ Eases after start on sidepulls. SS adds an extra move.

Sunny slab 4+ is the slab on the first boulder above the Tripod. The next boulder above this has a few low straight ups and a full traverse.

60 The Ruins

Good area with some nice problems close together. In wet weather, the ground around the Ruins boulder can get very marshy. The cluster of problems) in the scree is probably more of interest to locals than visitors.

1 Wallop 6b One move - pull on and lock for the top using the undercut. 2 Jim’s Problem 5 Just left of the arete with a big rockover or a sneaky toe hook. 3 The Plum 6a+ Outstanding. Starts on the slopey ramp and uses the slopey edges. 4 Original Route 5 The excellent arete using the hold on the left face. Can be done without the hold or by laybacking the arete on the right. 5 - 4+ Arete. 6 - 3 Slab. 7 - 4+ Arete - if only it was longer. 8 - 5+ Rockover. 9 Frustration 6a+ Short hard wall. 10 - 3+ Traverse from the jug to mantel on the left. 11 - 3 The wall using the borehole and the iron bar. 12 Diamond Slab 4 Hard SS or step from rock to the slab. 13 John’s Roof 6c Starts from the slopey edges in the cave. 14 - 4 Arete. Nice variation moving up and right from the starting jug. 15 - P The quartz crack. 16 - 4 One move wonder crack 17 - 3+ Groove. 18 5+ Savage mantel of the jutting shelf. 19 - 3+ Easy arete, the chimney to the left is a good squeeze. 20 Quality Control 6c SS, use the slopey sidepulls. Craftsmanship is the RH finish 21 Rob’s Problem 6c Start deep in the hole by jamming the break. 22 The Ramp 3+ The ramp. 23 - 4+ Traverse the block R to L. 24 White Arrow 6b SS and slap to the jugs. Excellent. 25 - P The overhang with the very obvious start hold and then nothing. Dec’s Pyramid 7a The rounded left arete of the previous problem. 26 - 4+ Start from the sidepull. 27 - 5 Offwidth. South of the River

The two standout boulders on this side of the river are Big Jim and Big Jane but there is more bouldering further upstream, in spite of the rock not reaching the perfection of Big Jim there are some interesting problems which should appear in the next edition of the guide.

61 Big Jim

Every problem on Big Jim is a classic and the rock is perfect. The low angled side can also provide running, hopping and no-hands problems. The landings are grassy apart from the rocky steep end. The easiest point to cross the stream is directly opposite Big Jim.

1 - 4 Arete. 2 Smear Test 5+ Face, brilliant undercutting and tenuous smearing. 3 - 6b Arete with tricky top out; there is also a 5+ rising traverse on jugs; plus a powerful SS from the small crimp in the middle of the steep wall to the left 8a. 4 Barry’s Problem 6b+ SS just right of the crack. The crack could also be jammed as an old school solution. 5 - 6a+ Classic slap just left of the arete using the side pulls. 6 - 6a Very slopey start up to the small crimp. 7 - 6b Jump from the edges to the jug. 8 - 5+ Traverse right and finish up the arete. Big Jane

Big Jane is just behind Big Jim on the edge of the scree. Problems 1, 2 and 3 are high with a dodgy landing in the form of deep holes. To the right of Big Jane is a small triangular block with a dyno on the face 4+ and also around the back is a nice arete 4 and San Miguel 6b+ which.

1 - 5 Layback the excellent airy arete. Highball! 2 - 5 Slab, who said bouldering can’t be dangerous? 3 - 4+ Insecure step to reach the ridge of the boulder. 4 Sheep Thrills 5+ Palm up the groove. 5 Dead Goats Society 5+ Left of groove, quartz but nice, don’t fall into the hole! 6 Andy's Arete 6c The very popular arete has a variety of solutions. (SS 7a+) 7 The Groove 6b The hanging groove is harder than it looks (SS 7c) 8 Rhythm and Stealth 7a On small edges with awkward landing but paddable. The SS on the right is Leftism 7c. 9 San Miguel 6b+ Start under the waist high roof with a desperate mantel to finish. 62 Path

A great collection of problems and a fine spot to warmup. Some of the problems off the path have bad landings. I have tried to indicate some of the problems deeper in the scree.

63 1 Base Camp Traverse 6a+ Slopey traverse rightwards of the lip. 2 - 3+ The middle of the slab 3 Superswinger 6c SS creaky flake. Dell Boy 6a+ traverses the lip of the roof from right to left. 4 B.B.E. 6c+ Hard to hang rightwards dyno from the sidepulls (SS 7a). 5 - 7a Powerful move up the scoop. 6 - 4 Very slabby groove. Egg Traverse 7a? Goes from 7 into The Egg. Very slopey. Tim’s 6c Intense slopey mantle between problem 7 and The Egg. 7 - 4 Pull over on jug. There is a good SS to the right that finishes up this problem. 8 - 4+ From the flake go straight up or traverse leftwards into Greg’s Problem using the crimp for an excellent 6b+. Or SS to the right of the flake and finish up Greg’s to do Mark’s Problem, 7a+. 9 Greg’s Problem 6a+ Jump for lip then campus for the top. 10 The Egg 5 Rounded arete (SS 7b). Egg Traverse starts as for problem 7 and finishes up the The Egg 7a+. 11 Howard's Roof 6b Old school roof crack. 12 - 3+ Exposed pull on top of sloping nose. 13 - 4+ The centre of the slab. 14 - 4+ Follow undercut. 15 - 5 Arete on left or right 16 Slugger 6a+ Use the seam for the right and sidepulls for the left. Superstars of BMX 7a+ uses only the seam for the hands. 17 The Layback From Wayback 3+ Don't fall off. 18 The Rails 5+ Classic move on side pull 19 The Nu Rails 6c Often confused with The Rails, this is the SS from the cave on the right, then straight up - 7c for the deeper speleological start. 20 - 4 Fine sharp arete. 21 - 5+ Vertical wall. 22 Zoology 6c SS. 23 Little Karma 6c SS. 24 - Michael’s/Hunters slopey problem. 25 - 6b Start from the pit and make a huge lock to reach the next decent hold. 26 Red Herring 6a Low start handing the shelf then a few tricky to figure out moves. 27 - 4/6 There are a few low starts on the wide overhanging face of the boulder, easier if you use the block for your feet. 28 Roadhouse and Mingeback 7a Rockover the hanging nose. 29 - P The square hanging arete. 30 - 3 Traverse the clean edge of the boulder from left to right. 31 Fortress Europe 6a Highball rockover using a small crystal. 32 - Either SS in the middle of the face or use the slopey right arete. 33 - 5+ The sharp arete. 34 Beachball 6a Low start and desperate mantel. A Midge Too Far is the slopey sit start just right of Beachball. 35 - 6a Traverse up the slopey arete. 36 - 5 Innocent looking mantel of the seam. 37 - 3+ Easy slab with big holds where you want them. 38 - 5 Retrospectively or vicariously brilliant chimney. 39 4+ Nice arete, pinching the vertical seam. 40 Gimp mask 7a Slap up from the undercut on the arete to the slopey top. 41 2.4 Pascal's 6a+ The overhanging face (SS 7b). 42 - 6a Arete, use the triangular sloper to get the pinch. 43 - 4 Slab on rounded pockets. 44 Warm Up Traverse 3+ Traverse from right to left. 45 - 4+ Arete. 46 - 3+ Up the scoop. 47 - 3+ The sharp arete or just the perfect seam (SS 6b). 48 King Kong 7a Start on a double ankle jam under the roof, then the vertical wall. 49 Squamish 6a+ Start on the flake under the roof and use every trick in the book to get the jug.

64 Crackland

A chaotic jumble of boulders well off the path, will be very hard to without being shown. Most problems have bad landings. Crackland is up the path from the path area, past a small stream, then two hundred metres into the scree, roughly in the direction of the crag.

1 Jim’s Crack 6a Crack. 2 Blind Stick 6b+ Arete with a committing slap to finish – prime your spotters! 3 Dutch Gold 8a Slap from the two tiny crimps to the jug. 4 - 5 Arete or step from block. Highball. 5 Adam’s Crack 5 More like a route, start is the crux but not fall- off-able. 6 George’s Crack 5 SS up the hand crack then reach over the top. Dangerous. 7 Purple Slab 4+ Pad up the slab. 8 Black Art 6c SS on the obvious edge, then slap upwards.

Just into the scree further past the stream is Jiggery 5+, a slopey traverse into the nose finished by a fierce mantle, and Pokery 6a+, which arrives at the same mantle from a SS directly below.

The Überhang

The Überhang is near the top of the path before the zigzags, and has a distinctive roof on the left hand side. A good place to get watched by walkers, if you are into that sort of thing.

1 - 4+ Nice traverse but the landing is a bit bad. 2 - 4 Small groove, very nice. 3 - 5+ Slab - bit of a shin banger start. 4 The Überhang 5+ Jump for the jug then up the groove, can also traverse in from the right 6 or start low down using the side pulls to slap for the jug 6b+.

In the scree about twenty metres behind this boulder is Chillax 6c the classic Glendo roof problem with its various starts and finishes, the original and best line starts on the chalky crimp in the middle of the underside of the roof and finishes rocking over using the massive jug. Between The Überhang and The Fin area is Chubbachop 6c+ the excellent vertical highball face. The Cherry 7a also merits a mention if not a description.

The Fin

A small area with great views down the valley, nice grass to laze on and excellent problems. To the left of the Fin is a boulder with a low roof, Xmen On Holiday 6a+ is the obvious lowball mantel.

1 Mark’s Slab 7b+ Absolutely desperate up the centre of the slab. 2 - 6a Right edge of the slab using the arete. 3 The Fin 7a+ The first move from the SS is the crux (and easier for the tall). There is a traverse out from the cave formed by the two blocks. 4 Arete right of 6b+ Brilliant delicate arete. the Fin 5 - 5+ The other side of the arete, best from a SS. 6 - 5 One move from the undercut. 7 - P Arete, high finish. 8 - 4 Blocky wall. 9 Love Handle 5 The arete.

65 Hidden Groove

About thirty metres straight up the scree from the Fin is a large boulder, with a formidable roof on the downhill side and a high face on the uphill side. The landing is a mixture of rock and grass.

1 The Big Squeeze 6c Standing start from under the roof with feet on large block, pull on, heel hook the rail with your right foot and make a big throw for the lip. Thuggy top out. The SS is a project. 2 Flute Boy 6c Pull onto small side-pulls with one edge for a foot and go for sloper on the arete. 3 - 4 Start on chest height jug and topout using the triangular niche on the lip. 4 Spinal Blood Clot 5 Start half a meter to the right of King Cobra. Move up to good holds on a shelf, just below a bulge/prow. A long move from here reaches a good sloper above the bulge on the lip of the boulder. Match the lip and finish either right or left up King Cobra. 5 King Cobra 6a Straight up the groove using an undercut on the right. 6 Crimpy Crossover 5 Start on the block about two meters left of King Cobra on good edges for both hands and a small edge for your left foot. Leave the block and scamper right on the edges over the ‘drop’ to a good top out. (Committing). 7 - 4 Start on the shelf and slap for top. 8 - P SS in hollow and take the cracks in the steep face to an (im)possible finish? 9 - P Pull onto undercut wall using finger slot below overlap and finish direct. (Feels highball).

Van Diemen’s Land

Van Diemen’s Land was the name given by the miners to the valley above the zigzags in Glendalough – so-called after the barren lands in Tasmania where convicts were being sent at the time. There are a few boulders, but seeing as it’s a fifteen minutes walk past the best bouldering in Ireland, it will not appeal to many people.

On the south side of the stream beside the first spoil heap is the Holiday Boulder which was cleaned and climbed on by Dave Ayton over Christmas ’08.

1 - 4 SS arete. 2 Dolittle 4 SS at lowest point on break and pull up to scoop on arete or go straight to next break. 3 Hugh 7a Low start on opposing sidepulls, right toe hook, left foot on small edge. 4 - 4 SS, traverse lip before rocking over. 5 Warmup Wall 4 The well featured wall on good solid rock. 6 First Flight 5 The arete on its left using mini-groove and sloper on wall to left. 7 P The groove. 8 In the moon 5+ The sharp arete and seam on the tall face. 9 - 5 SS on large crimp rail, move right and up slopey seam on good footholds to topout. 10 - 4 Start as above but reach up and left to good ear before topping out.

Further upstream (past the bridge, on the north side of the stream) is another boulder with Blue Beetle 6a+ that takes the middle of the block with a rockover to gain the slab.

66 Glenmalure

Glenmalure is the longest glaciated valley in Ireland and the UK yet it doesn’t have as much bouldering as its northern cousins. Dave Flanagan and Ped McMahon climbing a few problems in Glenmalure, Wicklow in February. Waterfall Boulder

The carpark is three kilometres up the valley from the crossroad at Glenmalure Lodge. Nice boulder two seconds from the car. The lip on the left is a project, long, with a good jug half way along. Big Boots is an awkward mantel onto the slab, the diagonal breaks aren’t much help. There is probably another problem to be done up the wall to the right. Sé’s Boulder

From the hostel head up the track, take the left track after X meters follow the track, after a hundred meters look right, Sé’s boulder is about 100m up the slope from here. The crack is Sé’s Crack, 5. The left arete is a project, hardish and needs a few pads for the landing. Fraughan Rock

Further up the valley in the Fraughan Rock Glen is a decent boulder on the opposite side of the river to the track that heads up the valley.

1 Cavalier Attitude 5+ Arete. 2 - 3 Easiest way up. 3 - P Very very nice slopey rib. 4 - P Very hard holdless arete starting from good sidepull.

67 Art’s Lough

In the jumble of boulders east of Art’s Lough is one boulder of note, Ciaran’s Boulder has a very nice and difficult looking slab and the end facing the lake has a steep overhanging wall. Further south out of sight from the lake is a high plateau with one particularly nice square boulder. There are other interesting boulders on the slopes above. Esoterica

Motte Stone

There are a few short problems on the Motte Stone (T 206 833) near Avoca. It’s signposted on the Avoca-Rathdrum road, just beyond the Meeting of the Waters. Follow the track to the top of the hill. Tonduff Valley

Tonduff Valley (a.k.a. O’Toole’s Rocks/Raven’s Glen) is on the south side of Glencree valley. There is one distinct boulder (O 178 139) and a few cliff edges in the small valley north of Tonduff. It is reached by parking in Crone carpark and following the trail west for about ten minutes until the rocks are visible, then cross the stream and go through the gate; the boulder is about five minutes upstream. Lough Tay

Lough Tay (a.k.a. Luggala) has a huge scree pile below the crag with some massive boulders. Access is unfortunately convoluted; being either over the bog from the military road, or else upriver from Lough Dan; see www.climbing.ie or the Wicklow route guidebook for details. While there might be a lot of boulders big and small the landings don’t lend them to bouldering.

68 Donegal

Most of the bouldering in Donegal is on granite - either beside the sea or in the hills; the exceptions are Rubonid Point which is dolerite and the sandstone of Muckross Head.

The Gaeltacht (Irish speaking) area of The Rosses has a great concentration of bouldering; including Carrickfin, Cruit and Crolly. It’s a great place to explore and laze around on the beaches. The locals are friendly and there are some nice pubs and great camping spots everywhere.

It is possible (and cheap) to fly to Carrickfin airport and travel from area to area on foot. The bus goes from Dublin to Dungloe (don’t pronounce the g); from there a taxi would only cost a few euro to Burtonport.

Area Rock Walk in Number of < 4+ 5 - 6c+ > 7a Weather problems 1 Barnesmore Gap Granite 2 mins 8 3 5 0 Valley at 200m 2 Polldoo Glen Granite 20 mins 20 10 8 2 Exposed hillside at 300m 3 Muckross Head Sandstone 5 mins 20 0 20 0 Non tidal rock platform 4 Malin Beg Quartzite 2 mins 14 6 3 5 Non tidal rock platform 5 Doochary Granite 1-5 mins 16 0 16 0 Low level 6 Crolly Granite 1 min 34 7 20 7 Low level 7 Cruit/Burtonport Granite 1 min 9+ 3 7+ 1 Tidal beach 8 Mullaghdoo Granite 10 mins 19 13 6 0 Non tidal rock platform 9 Carrickfin Granite 1 min 26 4 21 5 Partially tidal beach 10 Fanad Head Granite 1 min 12 0 10 2 Tidal beach 11 Dunaff Bay Granite 1 min 28 3 25 0 Tidal beach 12 Rubonid Point Dolerite 5 mins 32 7 23 2 Non-tidal, beside the sea

69 Barnesmore Gap

There are a few problems beside the road in Barnesmore Gap. Not worthy of a trip in themselves, but a handy stop-off to stretch the legs and arms if you’re passing.

Barnesmore Gap is on the N15 from Donegal Town to Ballybofey. Coming from Donegal Town, the parking is about one kilometre past Biddy O’ Barnes pub on the right hand side.

1 - 6a Traverses the two sides of the block, starting on the right arete (looking from the road). 2 - 3 The shot-holed left arete. 3 - 5+ Start up the left hand wall, then move right and make a few technical moves to better holds out right. 4 - 4 The steep juggy arete to better holds. 5 - 4 The slabby crack. 6 Stewed Arete 5/5+ The right hand arete, hardest at the start. 7 - 5+ SS using a toe-hook on the arete, finish using obvious better hold on top. 8 - 5+ SS to better holds and top. Malin Beg

The sea cliffs of Malin Beg are well known for trad climbing, but there are also a few good boulder problems as well. The small village of Malin Beg lies on the west-most point of Donegal at the end of the R263. On arriving at the village on this road, turn right at the crossroads and park on the grass near a small tower. From here continue along the track on foot to reach the coast at a narrow inlet. Walk right along the top of the cliffs on a wide rock platform. The bouldering soon comes into view.

At the left-hand end there are several 1 - 6a The centre of the wall on the second terrace, above a small pool. short vertical walls stacked above each 2 - 3 On the left side of the black slab, climb the groove above a narrow ledge. other. There is one problem here and 3 - 5+ The arete of the slab, climbed on its left side. several more problems on a black slab 4 - 4 The same arete climbed on its right side. further right on the lowest terrace.

The main area has three clean, vertical walls above a flat rock platform.

1 - P The right-slanting crack on the left-most wall. 2 - 5+ Mantel onto good edges in the centre of the blank wall and reach the top either by an excellent dyno or holds further left. 3 - P The wall left of the arete using some poor holds to reach edges below the top. 4 - P The impressive arete on its left side. 5 - 4 The big easy corner 6 - P The thin, right-facing flake line. Superb. 7 - P The long left-slanting arete of the wall without the big holds on the slab above. Slightly artificial but very good. 8 - 4 The slanting crack. 9 - 4 The central crack. 10 - 4 The right-hand crack on the wall. 70 Muckross Head

Muckross Head is about 8km southwest of Killybegs in southwest Donegal. Follow the R263 west from Killybegs until after 7km, fork left down onto the small scenic coast road. Follow this for about 3km until a small road turns left onto the flat and low lying headland. This road becomes an untarred track leading to a small car park. From here a path leads the last 100 m or so to a wave cut platform at the northern end of the cliff. This platform is partially tidal and the tide can come in very quickly - be careful.

The following problems are to be found just after the last cave of the crag either scramble around by Dynorod or walk along the top. The platforms are non-tidal and south facing. Whilst the rock is generally solid, care must be taken when topping out as some of the problems could be classed as micro-routes.

1 - 5b Start at low break, up to hanging flake and the top. 2 - 5c Slabs edge on its left hand side. 3 - 5c From low break through slab. 4 - 5b From low break and up edge. 5 - 5c From low break through slab. 6 - 5b Up wall between corner and crack. 7 - 5b Crack. 8 Wifeandman 5c Traverse lip and up arete 9 Whitevanman 6b Leaning face to sloping hold in the seam, left hand to jug on lip. Finish straight up.

Left of number 10 is a low roof, traversing it from right to left and top out is Quintana, 6b.

10 - 6a From rattley jug to top. 11 6b From rattley jug to slopers and out right. 12 Jesus 6b Rattley jug through overhand to arete. 13 Mary 6b Start below roof up to arete and top. 14 Joseph 5b Up arete. 15 6a Crack to top.

The following problems are to be found just to the left of Dynorod in the last of the main crag.

1 Summer 6b Start on low hold, girl follow lip and up arete to break. 2 Dick 5c From back break along lip and up arete. 3 Tom 6a As above to crack and top break. 4 Harry 6a Left side of arete to top break.

71 Doochary

A spread of Granite boulders centred on the village of Doochary.

Roadside Boulder

This is the obvious boulder next to the Fintown to Doochary road. Park at the gateway opposite the boulder.

1 - 5 The left arete from a SS. 2 - 5+ Nice left to right trending crack. 3 - 5+/6a SS on holds right of the arete, heel hook and mantel it out. 4 - 5+ Left to right traverse of boulder top. 5 - P Groove.

Lakeside Boulder

From the top of the Roadside Boulder another boulder can be seen on the far side of the lake to the north of the road. Approach via the west side of the lake.

1 - 5+ From a SS climb the vertical crack to a slopey finish. 2 - 5 Left to right traverse of the boulder top.

72 Michael Boulder

From Doochary take the Lough Barra/Churchill road. After 4km and 250m before a series of houses is the Michael Boulder originally developed by the NWPCC.

1 - 5+ The cracked groove. 2 - 5 Lower arete.

Sloping Boulder

On the road from Doochary to Fintown take the first road on the right after the bridge. Continue down the road passing a quarry, around a corner after about a kilometre you will the boulder on the left on the hillside.

1 - 5 Traverse the boulder top from left to right.

Steps Boulder

From Doochary take the Lough Barra/Churchill road. After about a kilometre is a boulder high on the hillside to the left. Park at the layby and slog up the hill.

1 - 6a Left side of the arete look out for the spike at the base. 2 - 5 Right side of the arete.

Bridge and Nested Boulder

Take the first small road on the left coming from Doochary. After you cross the bridge the boulder is visible on the right, park at the gateway.

1 - 5+ The face of the smaller boulder. 2 - 6a Left side of face. 3 - 5+ Right side of overhang. 4 - 5 Rising left to right traverse via exciting start.

The Nested boulders are hidden high up on the south side of the road. The boulder tops are visible and are a steep five minutes up the slope.

73 Polldoo Glen

Deep on the north side of the Bluestacks is an isolated valley called Polldoo Glen, with five boulders in it. The rock is amazing pink granite, very clean and with a few edges.

From Ballybofey, take the R252 towards Glenties. After about six kilometres, there is a sharp right-hand bend in the road at a church. Carry straight on along the R253 minor road for approx eleven kilometres until turn left (there is a signing saying you are 10km from Glenties) onto the rough road that follows the Reelan River (G 978 967). Follow this road for about six kilometres up and then down into the glen; towards the bottom is a junction; turn right and park in the quarry where the road ends. Break out right through the forest to the stream and you should be close to Echo Rock (G 993 932). The boulders are quite out of the way down some rough roads, so a Discovery series sheet 11 map would be a worthwhile investment to ensure you find them.

The Butter Bean has two problems on it, the first starts on the obvious jug and mantles the sloping ledge and the second Pea Brain 6b goes up the arete to the left.

There is a small boulder beside the river called the Matterhorn with a few short slab problems.

In September 2002, of Al Millar, Stuart Hamilton, Dave Millar, Pete Cooper and Geoff Thomas developed the excellent Polldoo Glen in the Bluestacks.

74 Echo Rock

Amazing. Photos don’t do this boulder justice. One of the most impressive boulders in the country. Shout to find out why it’s called Echo Rock.

1 Barry’s Backbone 5+ The left to right traverse along the top of the boulder finishing at the apex. A cop-out can be taken 2/3rds of the way along the traverse at the obvious jug. 2 Floppy Traverse 3 The flaky crack, right to left, hardest at start. 3 Nailgrinder 5+ Takes the series of flakes and edges just to the left of the Floppy Traverse. 4 Big Al’s Airy Traverse 6a From the small ramp at the base of a steep arete reach right from the arete to a better hold and then the top. 5 Paddington Bear 4 The slab directly right of Split Arete without using the arete. 6 Split Arete 6b+ The beautiful highball arete with the hardest moves at the start. Split Pea Rock

Good problems and a few hard projects as well. Uphill and left of this boulder is a nice arete and slab that’s well worth a look.

1 Splitting Headaches 5+ The overhanging wall on the left side of the main boulder facing down the valley. Really nice moves on positive edges in a beautiful position. 2 - P Get the arete in one hand and the sidepull in the other and head up and left. 3 P Arete in left hand. 4 - P Up to the good sidepull. 5 P Pad up the crack using a few decent edges. 6 Holey Cow 4 The face to the left again. 7 Coley How 3 The easy slab left of the chimney, 8 Spam Chimney 3 Chimney.

Pabbage Catch

Quite low but nice rock.

1 - 5 Start on a juggy flake, move right onto arete and up. Harder SS. 2 - 5 The wall using a high step for your left foot to better holds. 3 - 3 The wall using good edges for your feet and good hold out right to finish. 4 - 4 Start at the arete, traverse rightwards along the top edge using reasonable footholds.

75 Crolly

A great collection of granite boulders centred on the small village of Crolly which is on the N56 four kilometres south of Gweedore. All are within a few minutes’ walk of the road, if not closer. It’s about ten minutes drive to Carrickfin (follow the airport signs).

An Clochan Mór has been the subject of many local legends, such as; Finn MaCumhail threw it from the top of Errigal; if the most beautiful woman in Ireland walks by it, it will fall on her and crush her; if you throw a stone onto the top and it stays, your wish will be granted etc…

The Christmas lights are on the boulder year round, so be careful not to get tangled in them.

An Clochan Mór

The huge boulder (B 828 191) is also known as "Cloch Mór Léim a tSionnaigh" the 'big rock of the fox’s leap'.

1 - 5 The left hand arete is the descent. 2 - P Slap from the sidepull to the pocket. 3 - 5+ The pocketed wall. 4 - P Hard arete. 5 Haj 6a The roadside arete with the juggy start and excellent knife-edge arete to the summit. Easy climbing with a very poor landing from upper section.

The Tank

Every problem is worthwhile on The Tank (B 825 178), plus its right beside the road. The pocketed granite is very unusual. There is a smaller boulder up-slope with an easy arete and a sit start project.

1 - 4 Left hand arete with the crack. 2 Wee Daniel 6a+ Layoff the rib on the left of the groove. 3 - 4+ Right hand side of the slab using pockets. 4 - 5+ Left hand side of the slab. 5 - 4 Very nice arete. 6 - 4+ Slab without using right hand arete. 7 - 5 Middle of the slab. 8 - 5+ Left hand side of the slab using the left arete. 9 Fast And Furious 6a+ The right hand arete using the obvious crimp and sidepull.

76 The Moon Boulder

The Moon Boulder (B 826 176) is visible on the small ridge above the lake.

1 Bent Spoon 6a+ The crescent shaped arete left to right.

The Bunawack Boulder

Park at the bend in the road just before it ends. Follow the stream uphill to the boulder (B 834 168) that is visible from the road.

1 - 4+ Left hand side of arete using slab, steeper side of the arete goes at 6a+. 2 Highway Patrol 5 The high slab following the line of least resistance. 3 - 5 The arete gets sloppier at the top. 4 - 6a+ Up the face of the wave using the small pockets and edges. 5 - 6a The scooped arete from right to left; an awkward finish. Hidden Valley Boulders

The Hidden Valley Boulders (B 837 209) are well named. Just before the turn for Bunbeg (heading north) is a pull in on the left; park here and head down towards the small valley; the tops of the boulders should be visible in the vegetation. There also appear to be more boulders down river that might be worth a look.

1 - 5+ Left to right traverse of the top of the boulder. 2 - 5+ Mantle the sloppy hold and undercut flake to reach for the high break, traverse the break right to finish. 3 - 4+ Climbs the faint groove using good holds. 4 - 6a The right side of the arete (without using the stepping stone at its bottom). The slabby left side of arete goes at 3. 5 - P Desperate arete, mega hard. 6 Crolly Crack 6a Step off boulder using crack only (SS hand on big sidepull in crack. Delicate finger lock heaven). 7 - P Left side of arete using layaways and long reach. 8 - 5+ Arete using high step and sidepull; finish up slab. 9 Reverend Green 5 Arete - finish right along boulder top. 10 Professors Plums 6a Wall via high pocket and undercut. - 5 Crack - finish right for added pleasure. Poo Boulder

The Poo boulder (B 837 205) is on the other side of the road and even harder to find.

1 - 4+ Right side of slab using high breaks. 2 - 5+/6a Pad the central slab. 3 - 5+/6a The left hand side of the arete - eliminate version climbing the arete on its right hand side.

77 Cruit Island Cruit Island is connected to the mainland by a bridge and has a few nice beaches with some bouldering (it’s pronounced ‘critch’ and means hump in English).

Trá Dearg

In the centre of the island is Trá Dearg (B 730 210), which has a few problems on the south side of the beach. The walk along the coastline to Aughnish Point is nice and there is some potential slightly inland for some bouldering on the outcrops.

Aughnish Point

Take the second turn left off the main road after the lake, follow this road until your car can’t go any further, and then walk along the track until you reach a secluded cove. There is a nice overhanging wall and a few other problems around (you’ll need low tide); to the left facing the sea is Aughnish Point (B 721 201) itself. There are only about five problems on the shelves of smooth granite, but the setting is wild, with the waves crashing below and great views over to Arranmore. Burtonport

North of Burtonport (Ailt an Chorrain) there is a series of beaches that have some interesting problems. Travelling north out of Burtonport, take the first turn left marked with a sign saying Beach/Trá.

The main Burtonport beach (B 715 171) itself has some nice problems, especially when the tide is fully out.

An Chloch Ghlas

An Chloch Ghlas (B 711 174) is a nice boulder/outcrop; tidal with deep sand to land on. According to the map, there is a fort on top, but I never saw it. There are problems scattered all over this area. Unfortunately there is now a large pool of water below the best problems here.

1 Dyno 5 The steep side of the block has two ledges that are the perfect dynoing distance apart. 2 Happy Days 6a+ Juggy start with a long rockover/span to the top. 3 Back On Crack 5+ Brilliant crack, crux at the top.

4 - 3+ Juggy breaks. 5 - 5 The middle of the wall using the slopey breaks. An mBalla

An mBalla (B 713 169) is worth the short walk over the grassy hillside from the main beach.

1 - 6a Slab using the ‘smiles’. 2 Wild Horses 4 Slab. 3 - 4 Corner. 4 - P Arete.

78 Mullaghdoo

On the coast near Donegal International Airport and not far from the larger bouldering area of Carrickfin this secluded little crag has a small collection of decent boulder problems. The crag is near the airport, which is conveniently signposted from every major road in the area. From the airport, continue down along the road to a small car park at the end. Follow the coast south (left, facing the sea) past several small headlands and bays to reach a small beach. A few of these bays are worth a look for some easier climbing, one known as The Beach Wall has an obvious wall facing north across the bay with some hard projects, and the Sea Walls are just out of sight beyond.

These walls and aretes lie above a non-tidal rock platform, facing out to sea. The first problem lies in a small alcove formed by a large boulder in front of the main edge.

1 Shitehawk 6a A boulder in the alcove has an obvious arete split by a horizontal roof. Climb the arete and roof from a sit-start. Tidal.

Close to the sea is a small black boulder with two slabby faces and one steeper face.

2 Arse Bones 5+ On the back face of the small black boulder near the sea, climb the rounded arete. 3 - 3+ The slab on the seaward face of the boulder. 4 - 3+ The slabby arete on its left. 5 - 3+ The same arete on its right side. 6 - 4 An eliminate up the slab avoiding the aretes. 7 - 3+ The right arete.

In front of the main edge is another freestanding boulder.

8 The Night of Terror 6a The arete from a sit-start. 9 - 5+ The square arete on the other side of the boulder from sitting.

The remaining problems lie on the main edge.

10 Uncle Crispifer 3+ The easy arete is nice. 11 Arse Bones 3+ The crack just left of the corner. 12 Holly’s Crack 3+ The corner. 13 - 4 Climb the wall right of the corner without the corner or the crack to its right. 14 - 3+ The cracks. 15 - 4 The next corner to the right. 16 - 5 The crack in the centre of the wall with a tricky finish. 17 - 3+ The left side of the arete. 18 The Crane of Death 6a Climb the right side of the wall starting from the slanting crack. 19 - 3+ The front of the prow. 20 Jimmy The Boat 5+ The excellent hanging arete from a sit start.

79 Carrickfin

Carrickfin (B 780 234) is on the same peninsula as Donegal airport and not far from Gola Island. To get there, follow the signposts to the airport, take the road parallel to the runway, and turn left past the runway. After about a kilometre and two gates, turn left and follow the road to the beach. The rock is clean granite and the landing is sandy though watch out for the odd rock. Some climbing is possible at any time, with high tide reaching Barry’s Traverse.

Over Easter 2003 most of the problems in Carrickfin, Burtonport and Cruit in Donegal were done by a big group from Dublin. One notable problem that wasn’t done was the Three Star Arete this very clean line suffers from seepage and some incredible slopers.

1 Three Star Arete P The arete has seen off all challengers so far. 2 Joe's Crack 5+ Squirm up the wide crack. 3 Macro Corner 3 Perfect very juggy corner. 4 High Span 5+ Reach and layback the high wide corner crack. 4* Howard’s Mantle ? Hard very round mantle. 5 Sandy Slab 4 High but easy angled slab. Has been done no handed. 6 Michael’s Problem 5 Big lock from the diagonal break to the top. 7 Dyno 5+ Eliminate dyno left of the crack. 8 Barry’s Traverse 5+ Traverse right and up the frustratingly slopey break. 9 Super 7a Hard moves on slopers to gain the break. Vin Diesel 4 Pleasant break-to-breaking just to the right. 10 Lifeline 5+ Start at the right side of the slab, left of the corner (not using the big rock at the bottom) and rockover to the horizontal break. 11 - 5 Brilliant corner. 12 - 5 Start in the corner, traverse the seam out rightwards and finish up the blunt arete. 13 - P Squeeze the arete - has a rocky landing. 14 - 5 Centre of the slab. 15 - 5+ Mini roof; reach out and over the low roof. 16 - 3+ Easy but high juggy crack; also the descent for Tough Old Station. 17 Tough Old Station 5 Excellent highball with sufficient holds all the way. 18 Tackling The Issue 5+ The issue is the mantel. Avoiding The Issue escapes left. 19 Leaping Fish Left 5 Follow the left hand crack. 20 Leaping Fish Direct 5 Using the hold in the centre. 21 Leaping Fish Right 5 Start at the 'tail' and move right into the wide break. 22 Beware 6a Tenuous slab. 23 Sector 7E 6a Highball up the front face. 24 Sector 7G 6a Low steep start followed by a rightwards slap to the jugs. 25 Oisin 5+ The arete, wobbly high step finish. 26 Scian P The knife-edge arete with a bad landing.

About two kilometres further north along the coast is a long wall with a nice traverse and a few problems. 80 Dunaff Bay

Dunaff Bay (C 312 463) contains a fantastic series of granite boulders and outcrops. The rock is bright orange granite; it’s reasonably clean and solid, and has a number of wave-sculpted features providing an interesting landscape for the boulderer to play upon. Landings are mainly cobbles, but jutting rock outcrops do occur, and a pad would be best advised, along with a good spot.

From Derry/Letterkenny, take the R238 to Clonmany via Buncrana. The R238 bends left six kilometres north of Buncrana, take this (the right takes you to Carndonagh). Drive through the main street in Clonmany, and then continue west on the coastal road for Dunaff/Lenan. After about five kilometres you will come across a Post Office/Shop on a junction on your right. Take this road right and continue for another two kilometres to where the tar road ends and doglegs left. Park here - the bouldering is located in the tidal zawns next to the road.

In February ’04, Dunaff Bay was discovered in the North West of Inishowen by Peter Cooper.

Dunaff Wall

Dunaff Wall (C 312 466) is less than halfway along the shingle beach between Dunaff Head and Lenan Head; about one hundred metres north of a stream flowing into the sea.

1 - 6a The first steep wall, five metres to the left of the obvious broken break, using flakes and open-handed holds. 2 - 5+ Wall; using obvious jugs and easier top out. Lenan Wall

This wall lies between Dunaff Wall and the narrow zawns.

3 - 6a The bulge from a SS, with the aid of the thin diagonal crack. 4 - 5 Steep wall to the left of the bulge on good holds. 5 - 5 Traverse in from the far left, finish as for problem four.

81 Narrow Zawns

The next set of problems lie in a set of narrow tidal zawns next to the road junction (C 312 463). The problems are described from north to south.

6 - 6a The steep wall to the right of the obvious overhanging prow; juggy finish. 7 The Three Amigos 6a+ Overhanging arete 2/3rds of the way up the shingle beach. The prow from a SS using juggy pinches and side pulls. 8 Cesealya 5+ Climbs the obvious juggy overhanging wall. SS to good holds; traverse rightwards to finish. 9 The Fin 6a The fin shaped arete from SS to good jug on the right, and then the top. 10 - 5+ Wall to the left of the fin with/without the corner on the left 11 - 5 Seaward jug-filled arete. Armbands and rubber ring recommended. 12 - 4 The cracked slab, various lines. 13 The Prow 6a At the seaward end of the Frigate lies a smooth prow. Take the prow from SS to good holds. Various alternatives. 14 Kyudo 6b SS at the bottom of the crack, hard moves to the left onto sidepull crimps. Then up to a flat mantelshelf finish. 15 - 5+ The steep vicious crack, via a few nasty jams and the odd expletive. 16 - 5+ The scooped feature hard to start. 17 - 4 Climbs the blocky steep wall opposite the Prow. 18 - 4+ Climbs the sloping cracked arete directly opposite the Prow, hard to start. 19 - 5+ On the seaward side of the previous two problems lies a scooped feature. Climb the smooth right hand side via the rightward trending crack, and then finish left. 20 - 4 Slabby seaward side of this block. 21 - 5 This block is split in two at its southern end by a pool with a huge chockstone above. This problem climbs the right hand wall above the pool, high finish. 22 - 4 Juggy wall; exit left/right to finish. 23 - 5+ Short wall, hard to start. 24 - 6a Bow shaped prow via good holds on the right and an airy mantle. Magnifique. 25 - 6a The next obvious arete. Hard to start, then hard mantle. 26 - 6a+ The steep wall and arete to the left of the scooped feature; airy mantle to finish. 27 - 5+ The scooped feature. 28 - 6a The wall to the right of the overhanging prow, via moves up a corner, to a long reach for good crimps and then the top. 29 - 5+ Wall above the platform to the top. Various alternatives.

82 Fanad Head

Fanad Head is on the opposite side of Lough Swilly to the bouldering at Dunaff Head the granite is really good with about twenty problems and a few projects. The climbing is on coarse orange granite outcrops on a pebble beach, often getting the winter sun. Problems can get affected by high tides so check the tide before taking a trip up.

From Letterkenny take the R245 to Milford via Rathmelton. Before entering Milford town take the first turn on right after the Milford Inn. Follow this road to the end of the peninsula with Mulroy Bay on your left. Turn left at the T-junction, continue on the road for another 2 km until you come to a small road on the right turn down this road passing various houses with parking space at the end of the road.

Geoff Thomas, Peter Cooper and Dave Millar climbed new problems in Fanad Head and Doochary in Donegal.

1 Monkey Business 6a Climbs the first obvious arete that you see coming from the laneway. SS the arete initially using holds on the left followed by holds on the right. Excellent. 2 - 5 Climb the middle of the cracked slabby face. 3 - 5 Left hand arete. 4 - 5 Small corner left of 3 via high reach to start. 5 - 5+ High corner crack. 6 - P Face starting on the left and moving right on low holds. 7 - 5+ Arete. 8 Machuisti 6a Arete left of deep cut zawn 100m left of 7. 9 - 5 Bouldery wall right of final zawn. 10 - P Angled arete opposite of problem 9. 11 - 5 Pleasant arete. 12 - 5 Arete.

There is more bouldering in Ballyhoorisky Point at the top of the Fanad Peninsula.

83 Rubonid Point

There are about thirty problems on the various short walls and boulders at Rubonid Point (C 577 491) near Dunmore Head/ Culdaff on the Inishowen Peninsula. The rock is solid, and has great friction that is similar to the dolerite at Dunmore Head.

The area can be reached by driving south of Culdaff on the R238. After a kilometre, take a left turn onto the small coast road, and then continue along this for a further four kilometres. Where you come to a cross roads (should see a sign with a yellow foot on top), take a left, and park at the end of this road. Walk down the lane on the left for about four hundred metres, and then hop over a gate on your right. Follow a faint path through a few fields and heather for about four hundred metres; this will take you to the Upper Wall.

Upper Wall

1 - 3 Crack. 2 Hole In The Wall 6a The right hand wall to the good horizontal break on the left, via the diagonal crack. Finish via a good side-pull out to the right, or slopey pockets direct. 3 - 4 Cracks. 4 - 5+ Crack. 5 - P Left side of the high arete. 6 - P Right side of the high arete. 7 - 5+ Cracked wall. 8 Moe’s Arete 6a Arete to juggy lip and rest. Make a series of more committing moves via poor holds to finish. 9 Stu’s Arete 5+ The square cut overhang. The lower wall to good undercut; reach out right, grab the arete and cut loose for the top. 10 - 4 SS. The pocketed arete. 11 - 5 SS. The wall using nice crimps and edges. Alternatively, dyno to the top off lower crimps. 12 Rubonid Arete 5 The jutting arete. Start with left hand on the left arete, and then use a cunning kneebar to an awesome juggy finish.

84 Secret Garden

13 Secret Garden 6a Left to right traverse of this little wall. Muckross Wall

14 Stu’s Traverse 6a Low right to left traverse. Takes the first obvious short-but-wide wall you meet as you walk eastwards up the coast. Middle Wall

15 Lion King 5 16 - 5+ Direct line, finish by mantelshelf. 17 - 5 Traverse the boulder right to left, and finish direct via the highest point. Atlantic Wall

18 - 6a SS. The arete using a great side-pull to start and some slopey pockets to finish. Several variants on this arete and the slab to the right, all going at about 6a/6b. 19 - 3 Slab. 20 - 3 Crack 21 - 5 Traverse the wall from left to right. 22 - 5 SS. Start on side pulls and then go for the good horizontal break and mantle to finish. 23 John Doe 6b Start on crimpy horizontal break and reach for the slopey break above; get your feet high and finish via a better hold on top. A variation Johnny Dawes 6b starts to the left, dynos up and right for the sloping break and finishes as for John Doe. Another variation John Dunne 6a dynos up and left to finish as for John Doe. 24 Rum 4 The left hand crack. 25 Navel Tradition 5+ Start as for the last problem, and then at two-thirds height, traverse the obvious diagonal break and finish as for problem 22. 26 Crispy Nanflakes 6a The slab between the two cracks via good crimps to the juggy break; finish as for Navel Tradition. 27 Sodomy 4 The middle crack. 28 The Lash 5+ The right hand crack. 29 Smithereens 5+ The arete to the right of the gully; climb the slab to start, and then move out right to better holds; then finish up and left. 30 - 6a Same as the last problem, except using a more direct start. 31 - 6a Steep wall using the horizontal breaks and an awkward mantle to finish. 32 - 6a Right hand wall using the breaks to the top

There are also various fun-filled sea level traverses and solos on the walls of the inlet below Atlantic Wall.

Esoterica

Dawros Head is in South Donegal has plenty of good bouldering mostly on wave washed platforms and tidal

Barnes Gap

There are a few problems in Barnes Gap (half way between Kilmacrennan and Dunfanaghy).

1 - 5+ The highball arete with a good rest at half height. 2 - 5+ Start on the arete, traverse right on the horizontal arete at half height and finish up the groove.

85 Connemara

Connemara isn’t blessed with an over abundance of bouldering. There is a cluster of small boulders in Killary Harbour, which would give an entertaining day or two’s climbing, close to the road with an interesting variety of rock types. Derryrush in south Connemara has some great granite bouldering but is largely unexplored and may yet prove to be another extensive area. The Aran Islands have a huge amount of limestone but most of it is unsuitable for bouldering as it is too sharp however the Wormhole on Inish Mór has some excellent rock and problems.

Toby Foord-Kelcey - who has been bouldering in Connemara since the early eighties explored and documented the areas around Killary Harbour. Kev Howett discovered The Prehistoric boulder, and the Delphi boulders were found by Cian Kearns and other instructors from the adventure centre in Delphi in 2003.

Tim Robinson’s map of Connemara is the best bet for finding your way around.

Area Rock Walk in Number of < 4+ 5 - 6c+ > 7a Weather problems 1 Inish Mór Rough limestone 10 mins 30 4 19 7 Exposed rock shelves 2 Derryrush Rough granite 1-5 mins 28 12 13 3 Low lying 3 Barna Quarried granite 1 min 19 2 14 3 Low lying 4 Roundstone Granite 10-15 mins 20 10 10 0 Rocky coastline 5 Jim’s Nook Mudstone 10 mins 7 3 3 1 Non-tidal beach 6 Prehistoric Boulder Sandstone 5 mins 4 3 1 0 Low lying 7 Leenane Gritstone 5 mins 5 0 5 0 Low lying 8 Bundorragha Gritstone 1 min 3 1 2 0 Low lying 9 Delphi Cobbled Gritstone 5–20 mins 12 7 2 3 Exposed hillside at 150m

86 Inish Mór

Inish Mór is the largest of the three Aran Islands (the others are Inish Meáin and Inish Oírr), and lies fifty kilometres south west of Galway city. It’s fourteen kilometres long and three wide, and the majority of the coastline consists of limestone cliffs, so there’s huge potential for new routes and bouldering.

The only ways to get around the island are minibus and bike. Bikes cost around €10 a day and are good for exploring and a minibus to the Wormhole is about €6 return. There are three ferry companies servicing the islands, some from Rossaveal in Galway others from Doolin in Clare. There are plenty of hostels, including Kilronan Hostel and Mainistir House, and one campsite.

When the limestone is good, it’s great - for example in the Wormhole - but in other areas, it’s just too sharp to climb. It tends towards vertical walls with some overlaps; and large horizontal roofs, with edges varying from tiny crimps to huge flat jugs. The rocky pavements are flat and hard, so a pad is recommended. The islands seem to get better weather than the mainland, and the rock dries very quickly in a breeze.

Some great limestone problems at the Wormhole on Inish Mór were climbed over a weekend in January ‘04 by a hungover group from Dublin. Ian Mulvany and Dave Ayton discovered An Cáipin on Inish Mór during that summer while taking a break from the endless new routes.

87 An Cáipin and The Grotto

An Cáipin has a few problems that are about ten minutes walk from Kilronan. The path leads down to and past the beach, and the problems are on the cliff below the path. The rock is sharp but bearable. It’s slightly tidal, so a good onshore breeze will help it dry.

The Grotto is a three metre high steep slab. It lies right beside the main road that crosses the island, about ten minutes from Kilronan; it’s on the left, just past the statue of Mary. Most of the problems are in the 4/5 range with a good grassy landing.

Poll Na bPeist/Wormhole

About ten minutes walk from the road, on the way to the Poll, is an excellent low (three to six metre) limestone wall with lots of aretes and roofs; the rock is particularly good - just far enough from the sea to be dry, but near enough to be solid.

The upper tier of rock is very steep and high and not really suited to bouldering; however there are about fifteen micro-routes here, including the bouldery Thugtime HVS 6a by John Hawkins.

Be alert for large waves sweeping along the shelves.

Just before the main bouldering wall, is a small boulder field with a few worthwhile problems on the west end.

1 - 6a SS. 2 - 6b Campus or high heel hook; the boulder lies across a six foot deep slot. Very similar to Fast Cars in Porth Ysgo. 3 - P SS on arete. 4 - 6a SS on centre of boulder with white and red surface crystals. Harder if only crack is used. 5 - Boulder with two or three easy problems.

88

1 - 6a+ Large roof. Start up the left hand face and scamper along the juggy break to the nose and mantle. 2 - P Easy SS and then very hard crank to the sloper from the small crimp. 3 - 4 Arete. 4 - 6b+ Very fingery problem using the three small crimps. 5 Use Your head 6a SS using a knee bar; finish up the groove. 6 - 4 Easy wall. 7 An Shrón 6a+ SS to the fine prow. 8 - 5 Nice face on crimps. 9 Sitting Duck 5+ Mantle into a sitting position on the ledge, then stand up to undercut for the top. 10 Sparkle 6a Another brilliant prow. Slap from the jug to the sloper and then match. 11 - 6a+ SS, move right to the keyed-in block, match the sloper, knee bar, then ledge. 12 - P SS and throw to the small crimp, then only two more roofs to go. 13 Shindig P Dyno up the small groove. 14 - P Face. 15 - 4+ Highball face. 16 - 5 Layback the detached-looking block. 17 An Díon Ard P Highball roof. 18 Liostrea 6a Crack and corner. 19 An Díon Mór P Hard jump from the jug at the back of the roof, to the finger jug on the lip.

The walls just above the Wormhole itself have some excellent problems however they need a low tide to be accessible. Be on the lookout for rogue waves when on the level near the hole. The walls to the left of the wormhole also hold some potential. A few new problems were climbed in the Wormhole, Inishmore over the May Bank Holiday weekend ‘07.

1 - P The overhanging face has an obvious starting hold after which it goes very blank. 2 - 5 Bridge up the corner and reach right to the edge rockover to the top. It might be possible to finish directly up the corner. 3 - 5+ A few meters to the right is a diagonal edge from this reach up left to a side pull and then to an edge below the top. 4 - P Very thin crack 5 - 5+ Follow the diagonal edge until you can reach the top. 6 4+ Small corner.

Leic an Níocháin

Across the bay to the east is another terrace covered with boulders; the rock is not as blank as the Poll. This area is worth exploring; there is a vertical wall that is climbable at low tide that is especially worth a look.

Other Islands

There is no bouldering of any note on Inish Meáin or Inish Oírr.

89 Barna

There is a disused quarry (M 203 264) near Barna Golf club with a number of problems on nice rough granite. The owner allows bouldering but obviously no large groups, take litter home etc.

Coming from Galway turn up at Rahoon Cemetery and follow the road for about six kilometres until you come to Paddy’s Cross Roads. Lough Inch is on your left and below. Go straight through passing Barna Golf club on your right. Drive on past a working quarry and you should see the boulders (and a lot of scrap) on your right. There is a gate and a security firm sign with a phone number. Coming from Barna turn up at Truisky East (hard to see junction just before school on right) follow the road for three kilometres to Paddy's crossroads turn left and follow the directions as above.

1 - 4+ Nice slab problem. 2 - 5 Nice slab problem. 3 - 6b Rockover left. 4 - 6c Rockover right. 5 - P Massive overhang. 6 - 6b Heart quickening slab eliminate (use only diagonal break, no borehole or ledge). 7 - 6a Borehole problem, start under overhang with foot in borehole. 8 - 6a Nice sloper traverse, finish around corner. 9 - 5+ Warm up traverse around this boulder, the last bit is tricky. 10 - 5+ Nice slab problem. 11 5+ Mantelshelf up small boulder. 12 - P Mantelshelf. 13 - 4 Mucky traverse 14 - 5+ Balancy slab step up. 15 - P Scary looking highball with borehole 16 - 5+ Nice slab 17 Barry's super problem 6c Straight up and don’t fall off 18 - P No hands slab. 19 The Labour Ward 6a Finish 18 inches higher than when you started.

90 Derryrush

Hundreds of erratic boulders can be seen in the bog for several kilometres around the small village of Derryrush, (L 898 391). Only a proportion are a useful height, but exploration so far is encouraging. The rock is coarse white granite, requiring little or no cleaning. Many of the boulders are notably angular rather than having the 'egg' shapes typical of Wicklow granite.

In August 2004, Toby Foord-Kelcey scratched the surface in Derryrush, South Connemara and found some great granite boulders.

Toby was tipped off by a mention of ‘the largest boulder in Connemara’ in Tim Robinson’s Connemara Map.

Area A

From Derryrush, drive west on the minor road towards Cashel for about three kilometres. Just west of where the road rounds a distinct ridge, are two minor disused gravel quarries on the left of the road. Park here, and climb up to the fence above the quarries, then walk four hundred metres south and uphill to the cluster of about ten boulders visible higher up on the ridge.

1 Gaia 4 The obvious neat hanging groove with a striking resemblance to the Hard Grit classic. 2 - 5+ Tough rock-up on the steep slab facing northwest. It’s on the boulder in front of the previous problem.

There are several more, large, unexplored boulders visible higher up on the ridge.

91 Area B

Just around the ridge on the same road, returning back toward Derryrush is another gravel quarry parking spot on the south of the 1 - 3 Easy moves up the centre of the slab. road. To the north of the road, are a large number of boulders 2 - 4 Mantle the sloping shelf to the right. scattered across the bog. Amongst the boulders closest to the 3 - 3 Vague crack in the arete right again. parking spot is a rock with a distinct flat top; this lies about two hundred metres from the road, and just beyond the electricity post. On the east face of this boulder are three minor problems. In isolation, these problems are not worth the walk, but there may be more to do on the numerous other boulders nearby.

Area C

The best area found so far. Follow the more easterly of the two turf-cutters' roads that head north off the R340 east of Derryrush. The road passes through two gates. After about one and a half kilometres, there is a distinct fork in the road with a rougher track leading back westwards (at the fork is a tall boulder, with the south arete going at 3). Follow the rougher track for about eighty metres, to park at another substantial boulder with an extraordinary flat hanging slab on its south face. This is The Barn.

1 - 4 Awkward move to gain the centre of the slab, pad to the summit easily. 2 - 3+ Excellent juggy moves on the right arete. The best low grade problem in Connemara. 3 Castlemaine XXX 6b SS left. 4 Wallabie 6b SS middle. 5 Bubbalicious 5 SS right.

A cluster of three tall blocks can be seen about three hundred metres directly south of The Barn. This is Yosemite.

1 The Apron 4 Brilliant holdless friction slab. 2 Salathe 5+ Face requiring a little more cleaning. 3 The Nose 5+ Steep arete. 4 - 3 Short vertical arete. 5 Butterfingers 6a Excellent diagonal crack. 6 - 6a Thin, steep face just to the right.

Several large unexplored boulders are visible in all directions from here.

B'Ernie boulder

The B'Ernie boulder is 100 meters before the narrow bridge in Derryrush and about 30 metres off the road on the left at the gravel lay by.

1 Maamtle shelf 4 Lovely long mantle shelf with an increasingly slopey topout as you move left along it 2 Ernie 5 Move up the arête’s using the large foot ledge to a lovely jug. Top out up along the sharp spine of the boulder 3 Bog Standard 5+ Fantastic problem up the near vertical slab using the two crimps in the middle of the face.

92 The Chief

The Chief is a fine boulder and allegedly the highest in Connemara. It is known to locals as Cloch Coirill and water bailiffs used to sleep under it when on the lookout for poachers.

Approach via the first turf-cutters road leading north from the junction of the R340 and the road to Cashel about mid- way between areas B and C. Follow it for about 1 km to just before a gate at a fenced off bit of forest land, Go through the gate into the forest and continue along the track for about another 1.5 km, until a locked gate is reached. You can park in an area here by the gate. Walk a little way along the track towards the house on the island. The boulder is now clearly visible to the north. Walk around the lake to it. Wellie-boots advisable!

South side

1 Deidre 4+ Pull over the overlap onto the hanging arete then up the easy corner. 2 Angel's Crest 3 Easy climbing up the southeast ridge/ rib. Don't fall off the friction moves below the summit. Also the best descent route.

East side

3 Midge Alley 4 Sit start to easy climbing above. 4 East Face 5 Fingery climbing up the east face 5 East Break 5 Fingery start, moves diagonally right following the break to the top. Caution: loose in places. 6 100 Watta 7b Sit start and up the northeast prow. 7 Project traverse P Sit start under the nose and traverse right without using the shelf.

North side

8 Traverse P Sit start and move left finish up East Break. 9 Highawatha 5 Excellent. Sit start and move up the face. Highball. 10 North Arete 5+ Sit start and move up the arete. Highball.

More highball and overhang lines to be explored on this side.

West side/cave

11 Cave problem 6b Start in the cave and move out and over the lip to finish. 12 Project traverse ? Sit start at the right of the cave and move left.

More lines to be explored on this side. Some harder cave problems also look possible.

93 Roundstone

The bouldering in the vicinity of Roundstone is divided between two areas Murvey and Gurteen both are excellent granite similar or maybe a bit better than that of North West Donegal. The climbing is on outcrops, boulders and steep inlets. There isn’t a huge amount of conventional bouldering however there is a lot of highballing, traversing and deep water soloing. There might also be some more bouldering on the gabbro slopes of Errisbeg Mountain.

1 A rounded dome beside the road; there are a few other outcrops further down the road. 2 Just past the graveyard and the campsite are a few problems on two rough granite boulders.

1 - 5 Mantle over on the slopey lip. 2 - 4 The centre of the nice slab. 3 - P The opposing slopey arete. Might be a hard low start. 4 - P The very nice highish arete. The rocky landing could be easily improved by shifting a few blocks. Low start possible from the slots on the right.

3 A nice gabbro slab, just right of where the gate blocks the road to the beach. 4 To get to the climbing at the end of Gurteen park at Gurteen beach (the carpark fills up quickly on sunny days in the summer) walk down the beach, near the end cross over into the dunes and into the large field, head through this keeping more to the left. There are a few problems on the left (facing the sea) and soloing on cliffs above the water on the right. 5 To get to Murvey, heading from Ballyconneelly to Roundstone take the turn right about 500m before the crest of the hill, follow the narrow road turning right at the junction, park considerately before the gate that leads onto the commage. On foot head through the gate and then head left down towards the coastline. The first few zawns contains some good deep water soloing and further along there is some spread out bouldering on big and small boulders.

94 Jim's Nook

The climbing at Jim’s Nook (L 742 643) is steep and fingery, with complex sequences that can take time to figure out. Both Ghosts and Full Circle are extremely good highballs with sandy landings; a pad is useful. Glassilaun beach just to the northeast is one of the best in Ireland and is also a good place to camp.

Due to an access issue the best approach is either from the caravan park to the south by wading across the river or following the shore from Glassilaun beach to the north. Jim’s Nook is the rounded cliff edge on the east end of the cliff band. The problem from left to right are:

1 Ghosts 7a The left hand crack line. 2 Full Circle 6c+ The magnificent right hand crack line. 3 - 6a Finger slot to blind flake to easy ground. 4 - 4 The slabby corner. 5 - 4+ The arete right again. Using only the crack right of arete is 5+.

At the south end of the beach are several south-facing walls, marked as Outcrops on the map. These are clearly visible from the Lettergesh to Renvyle road. There is plenty of rock here, but much of it is too high or broken for bouldering. Toward the left end of this area, an obvious short wall of compact and distinctive red-brown rock has two worthwhile problems.

1 - 4 Surprisingly easy left hand line 2 - 6a Crimpy off-balance moves on the right side.

95 Prehistoric Boulder

Sitting on its own by the side of the Bunowen River, just downstream from the N59, is the Prehistoric boulder (L 821 609). From the N59, go down the tiny road towards Bunowen. The boulder is on the right, and a small parking bay is available at the first main corner in the road. The problems are on the south-facing wall as you approach. The short approach can be boggy.

1 The 4 SS under overhanging left arete, Evolutionary up to jugs on top. 2 Monster 4 Central scoop direct to jug at Munch highest point (dynamic step) 3 Cave Girl 5 SS on flake into shallow scoop 4 Prehistoric 5+ Right to left diagonal crack line, Times from SS on a jug on the right arete. Only using handholds close to the crack line.

Leenane Boulders

Follow the road west out of Leenane for about one and a half kilometres until a track (the 'Western Way') and green mobile phone mast are visible on the left. There is room for one car to park here; if this is occupied, park further along at the larger lay-by.

The Bull boulder (L 864 623) is about three hundred metres up the track. Just before the Bull, and about twenty metres uphill from the track, is a little diamond- shaped slab with some potential.

1 Bullish 6a Obvious flake on right side of arete, using some holds on left wall. Juggy finish out right. Very highball. 2 The Bull 5+ Straight up the discontinuous crack line 3 - 5 Sketch up the little arete past a brushed foothold.

Another two hundred metres further, is another large boulder next to the track.

4 The Yank 5 Excellent overhanging arete. SS with left finish is 6a. 5 - 5 Short crack.

Other boulders are visible on the hillside above and further along the track; these may have some worthwhile climbing.

Bundorragha Boulder

Bundorragha (L 837 633) is a collection of houses around the only harbour on the north side of Killary Harbour. A small road leads off the main Aasleagh to Louisburgh road, down to the harbour. Park by the inner harbour and not at the little quay directly by the sea. From the parking, follow the track for one hundred metres, the boulder should be visible up on the ridge to the left.

Further up the wooded track, beside the track on the left, is another large boulder that may have some short sit-start problems.

1 - 4 Arete. 2 - 5 Obvious line on right side. 3 Pining For Hana 6b Link features up the left side of the face without using the left arete. Not yet linked with SS.

96 Delphi Valley

The Delphi valley to the east of Mweelrea has many pebble-studded sandstone boulders. Unfortunately, only three found so far have worthwhile problems, however there must be more to find in this area.

Park at the Delphi Adventure Centre on the road from Aasleagh to Louisburgh. Follow the dirt track winding around the right side of the centre for about four hundred metres, keeping right at all junctions. Enter into the forest; just after a right turn at a small boulder, go through the trees and over the fence; the River Boulder is fifty metres downstream from here.

1 Reiki 4 Nice slopey arete, pinching the smooth cobbles. 2 Fleiki 4+ Wall to flake 3 - 4+ Wall and slab to right 4 - 4 Right again

For the Third Rock from the Bog boulder, carry on up the track for a few more metres out of the trees, to where a water pipe crosses the river on a girder bridge. Cross the bridge and follow the water pipe for about three hundred metres across the bog to where it meets another stream. Continue up this stream for about another four hundred metres, past the point where the water pipe ends and past numerous minor boulders. Eventually, an eight metre tall monolithic rock can be seen standing off to the left of the stream. This is just before the point where the valley side begins to steepen. The walk takes about fifteen minutes from the girder bridge.

The main boulder has an impressive overhanging face on its south side.

5 - P The centre of the face needs more cleaning, but will be a classic highball challenge (or E5 route). 6 - P Another highball line looks possible just right of the arete. 7 - ? The steep crack and arete above may have been climbed. Don’t fall off. 8 Chocolate Scoop 4+ Right side of the scoop left of the arete. Vanilla Scoop is the left side of the scoop with a SS at 5+. 9 Jugs’R’Us 4 The easiest way up and down, on a vague rib with large holds. The slab to the left is slightly harder.

The smaller boulder behind has some short problems on top quality rock.

10 Pinch Me 4+ The straight line of pebbles just left of a slight crack. 11 - 5+ Fun arete from the right. 12 - 5 Arete from the left.

97 Esoterica

Rosroe Peninsula

The peninsula on the south shore of the mouth of Killary Harbour, and west of the Rosroe youth hostel, has a large amount of bare rock and is a very beautiful and wild place to explore. The rock is highly featured, metamorphosed sandstone, with tilted strata creating overhangs on the south side and slabs on the north. Though there is a lot of climbing, much of it is too highball, or too easy, to appeal to a modern boulderer and the area is probably best left undocumented; however, note that most things have been climbed. One harder problem worth mentioning is the Temple Traverse, which is on a ten metre wide overhanging wall, very close to the sea. This lies on a vague headland that forms the most southern point of the peninsula, about one kilometre overall from the youth hostel. From a SS on the left, traverse right with hands on the lip using slopers and crimps; about 6b without heel hooks. The large slabs on the north side of the peninsula (at its far end) host the fun Quick Dip; a DWS-type traverse of about forty metres, situated just above the high-tide mark. Probably worth a route grade of VS 4c. Access is by following the private road heading west from Rosroe harbour (signposted to Killary Salmon farm), for about 500m along the spine of the peninsula, and then walking leftwards and around the seashore to the south. Ask permission and do not take dogs. Killary Harbour

The north shore of Killary Harbour has many sandstone crags. Some of the more obvious edges straight across the water from the Rosroe youth hostel have documented routes from the early eighties. In fact this area would be better suited to bouldering and has a lot of potential. The only problem is that access requires a boat or a very long walk. Little Killary

There are some highball problems at the base of the Little Killary crags such as the Pinnacle Superdirect Start 5+ and the direct start to Jutting Proud 6c. Doo Lough

Near the shore of the smaller lake west of Doo Lough is a very large, attractive-looking boulder that can be seen at a few points from the road. This is the Disappointment Boulder, composed of moss-covered schist. The obvious line on the right hand side has been climbed, but the steeper lines require immense amounts of cleaning; it’s only described to prevent other people from wasting their time with the walk.

98 Mournes

The Mourne Mountains contain many fine bouldering possibilities, however there is very little information available. Hopefully more information will come to light in the future, but for the moment, the best bet is to get the route guidebook (“Rock Climbing Guide to the Mourne Mountains” by Robert Bankhead, M.C.I.) and the Mournes map (“Mournes County Outdoor Pursuits Map” by O.S.N.I.), and get walking. Slieve Binnian North Tor might be the best place to start. The rock is fine granite, similar to that of Wicklow, and tends to be found on top of the hills, making the walk-ins long and steep.

In Newcastle is a small overhanging wall beside the beach called the Rockpool. It’s a useful spot if you are rained out of the Mournes and slightly desperate to climb. The wall is four metres high and about eight metres long and overhangs about twenty degrees; there are a few obvious problems and a few eliminates. From Hill Trekker, cross the road and walk along above the beach; the Rockpool is beside the outdoor swimming pool - there is a house above the wall so keep low-key.

South of Newcastle, on the coast road at Bloody Bridge, are some boulders; the rock is similar to the Rockpool (i.e. Silurian shale) but more compact. There is a nice steep juggy prow at about 5, a couple of walls nearby with definite lines, a traverse or two, and a few eliminates.

99 Fairhead

Coastguard Station

Near the centre of Ballycastle is a large amphitheatre. This has a pumpy low-level traverse starting in the middle and going right, plus a few straight up problems. To get there, walk along the path past the ferry terminal and scramble up the left side of the large white slab (this is not advised when the grass is wet). There are more problems further along the path at the base, but the landings are bad and the rock sharp. Maguire's Strand

In Corrymeela, on the outskirts of Ballycastle, is a small forty five degree wall with loads of eliminates, situated to the left of the sandstone cliffs. There are a few slab problems on a small sandstone outcrop below the road, in the direction of Pans rocks. Marconi's Cove

There are a few problems on the large detached boulder beside the extreme right-hand end of the long cliff (undercut by bands of red and black rock). Cushendun

The village of Cushendun lies south of Ballycastle. Go in the direction of the Cave House, past the flats, to a wall; it has some seepage, but loads of potential when dry. Ballintoy

Ballintoy, close to the Carrickarede rope bridge, has a few small areas. At the harbour, there is an obvious black slab with a good overhang up the chalk island in the centre of the beach. If you head past the carpark towards Whitepark Bay (before a small cottage), there is a twenty metre section of fifty degree wall to the left of a large cave; this always stays dry.

100 Main Edge

Fairhead is an inspiring place to climb and a beautiful place to just hang out. The crag stretches 3 miles along the north coast of Co. Antrim and stands over 100m at its highest points. So far bouldering at Fair Head is split to the two opposite ends of the crag. The bouldering potential along the bottom of the crag is massive and these two areas have only scratched the surface. There are many more problems to be done in both areas and some awesome looking boulders down by the sea. Rathlin Wall

The first area is right below Rathlin Wall (same walk as if you were climbing at the Ballycastle descent gully). The Whale is one of the biggest boulders at the Head and is clearly visible from the top of the crag, it has scope for much harder problems on its steeper side. The other main boulder is The Shelter Stone that sits below the route Titanic. It has on it one of the most impressive and high ball problems at Fair Head, Infinity and Beyond, which starts with a couple of campus moves to a good hold over the roof and then up the steep arete. The bouldering at this end of the crag is not fully developed due to the bad landings!

1 Mad Arete P Not necessarily a project just needs cleaned and sent. 2 Infinity and Beyond 7a Highball arete of the Shelter Stone is gained by a slopey hold at full reach of the ground. 3 Umberdoodle ? Sit Start, on the short wall below the shelter stone. 4 The Undercling 5a Pop up to use the undercling and easily to the top. 5 Project P Very small Crimps. 6 Under Strain 7a Sit start and crimpy. A standing start is 5a. 7 Rubick’s Cube 4+ Climb The Wall. 8 Pyrite 4+ The Arete. 9 Fat Slapper 6a Small slab 10 Chipper 6c Sit start the obvious flat ledge and lunge left for sloppy holds the straight up. 11 Jumbo 6a The necky arete. 12 Jet 5b Short problem on the left side of dirty wall 13 Style that's free 4 Start at the undercut flake. 14 Mottled Wall 4 A mini route on good edges.

101 Murlough Bay

The bouldering is situated near the coast at the Murlough Bay end of the crag roughly below the route December. It’s the best developed, has the most potential for more problems and it generally has ‘best landings’ of the all the Fairhead bouldering. It is approached from the small car park with a stonewall, slightly before the Murlough Bay car park. A 10 minute walk down a grassy lane towards the bottom of the main crag leaves you standing beneath a massive overhanging boulder called The Hanging Block. On it you’ll find the two problems that are a good introduction to the bouldering at this end of the crag, Sam Gordan’s Crazy Arete and the now classic Brought to you by the letter M from John McConville

1 Ali’s Arete 4+ Climb the right hand arete of the slab. 2 Ricky’s Slab 3+ The middle of the slab starting on the big ledge. 3 Crazy Arete 6a Sit Start the right hand arete. Keep to the arete. 4 Brought to you by the letter M 5c Sit Start. Straight up the middle of the steep wall. 5 Moon Man Direct 6c Sit Start the left arete then traverse right to join Brought to you by the letter M. 6 Chubs Peterson 7a Sit Start the steep wall on a left facing layback and top out with care. 7 When Molsey Met Melkor 6c+ High problem with a surprisingly good landing. Initial jugs lead to a long reach. Fliddy the Post office cat 6c Start on the jugs of Molsey then throw out to the crimp up and left. 8 Hook and Reach 6c Start on the good crimp left of the loose jug. Reach top. 9 Hug the Arete 5b Sit Start the right hand arete. 10 Stem Jam 5+ Sit Start. Climb the big ledges and top out awkwardly. 11 Stop feeding it 7a+ Sit Start the arete low down in a corner and crimp hard to join Eat it. 12 Eat it 6c One of the best problems of at Fairhead so far. Starts with the good hold. Start with both hands on the crimp on the left. Join Eat it. Homeward Boulder is 13 Eat it Left 7a the SS at 7c it starts on an undercut with big reach to crimp rail. 14 Missing in action 6a+ Two jugs at half height. Finish left 15 2 Move Arete 5+ Sit Start the low arete on the right. 16 Carbide 7b Perfect line up the steep wall. Top out onto slab using small crimp.

There is huge boulder down and left from The Grey Mans Path with a line up the steep face called Monster Ball 6b (by Ricky Bell). It’s about 7m high and more of a scary solo than a boulder problem. There is also scope for a lot more problems in this area and slightly further along.

102 Sligo

Sligo has two established areas; Aughris head and Lough Easkey, and even these have only been visited by a handful of people.

Rosses Point beach has bouldering potential at either end of the beach.

A few miles east of Easkey is the Split Rock; it’s a large granite boulder in a field that is just too small to boulder on - I’m only mentioning this so you don’t get your hopes up if you hear about it. Legend has it that Finn MaCumhail threw it from the top of the Ox mountains; which is pretty impressive as it weighs about one hundred tonnes.

Aughris Head and Lough Easkey were found by a bouldering surfer based in Easkey sometime around ’00. Lough Easkey

Lough Easkey is in the middle of the Ox Mountains. On the hillside above the lake lies a scattering of rough, crystally granite boulders; unfortunately, most of the boulders are a bit too small to be of interest, however there are a few exceptions spread across the hillside.

Aughris Head

About twenty kilometres west of Sligo near the surfing village of Easkey is Aughris Head. This has some excellent steep bouldering on wave smoothed limestone, with great views across Sligo bay to Ben Bulben and Donegal. The limestone in this area has beds that dip about fifteen degrees inland, which creates very steep roofs, and horizontal edges perfect for bouldering. First bouldered in by a mysterious surfer from nearby Easkey.

Well worth a visit, but like most seaside bouldering, conditions have to be right; the most important factor is the tide (the whole beach is covered at high tide), secondly an onshore wind (the beach faces north) helps the rock dry and the third factor is seepage. The height of the pebbles on the beach can vary considerably especially after a storm. The sixty degree wall facing you as you descent to the beach had some brilliant problems, with the most obvious line following the rib on the left. The cave to the left looks great, but is rarely in condition.

Heading from Dublin on the N4, turn onto the N9 towards Ballina, after about twenty kilometres is a turn right for Aughris pier/head (it should be signposted); follow this and park at the pier. Just to the left of the pier is a grassy path that leads westwards along the edge of the cliff. After about ten minutes, the climbing is below you just after you cross a fence. 103 Cork

Douglas swimming pool

The bouldering at the limestone crag near Douglas swimming has recently been cleaned up. The crag is 200m long and between 6 and 10m tall. There are three areas, the first wall with spray paint is the Metallica wall leading down as far as the protruding rocks. The middle section stretches most of the crag down as far as the slimy overgrown section at the far end of the slab. The far corner area has loads of nice overhanging problems with an overhanging arete the far side of the slimy area in the middle.

To get there pass Paddy the Farmers pub up Summerhill south, over the bridge and past St Finbar's hospital (on your right). At the third set of traffic lights there is a little sign point down a lane for Douglas swimming pool. Go down the lane past the pool on the right. The crag is off to your left, look out for a path leading down to the crag. Over the summer some of the members of CRAIC climbing club in Cork cleaned up the limestone walls near Douglas swimming pool.

Dunmanway

Enter the centre of Dunmanway town. Take the road north up a steep hill know as St Mary’s hill. After a kilometre you will reach a fork in the road take right hand road. Follow road for two and a half kilometres. You will reach another fork in the road at a hairpin bend on a steep incline, take right hand branch. After a hundred meters there is a gate on the left park here. This is the Yew Tree Hill (a.k.a Mount Gunnery). To reach The Loaf, head north up the road for about a 100 meters and turn right along a disused track and cross the field in an easterly direction. The rock at Dunmanway (sheet 85 GR 22 54) is grey sandstone and mainly vertical with a few roofs and low traverse. There are lots of new problems scattered across the hillside, with a short walk in.

There were two bolts placed on top of the Loaf to aid top roping, as The Loaf is eighteen feet in height. However there are good landings below the problems and with a bouldering pad and attentive spotters you can dispense with the rope.

1 Left Crack 4 - 2 Time Bomb 6b - 3 Brown Crack 5 - 4 Extension Ladder 4 - 5 Electra 6a+ - 6 White Crack 4 - 7 Cut your nails 7b Very hard climb between the two cracks. 8 Right Crack 6a - 9 Puka 5+ - Rocky Bay

Rocky Bay is a small picturesque sandy beach south of Cork city. It is only a 15 minute drive from the centre of Carrigaline and about 30 minutes from Cork City. It is not a place one would travel to just to go bouldering, however if you are Cork based or in the area it is worth a visit. Most of the rock at Rocky Bay is of poor quality. But there is some better quality rock. Due to the fine sandy nature of the landings, a bouldering mat is not essential. Most of the problems are out of reach at high tide, so the lower the tide the better. I haven’t gone into details of individual problems.

To get there follow signs from Cork's ring road for Ringaskiddy/Carrigaline. Go through the centre of Carrigaline and at the end of the main street go straight up the hill rather than following the main road around to the right. After a few kilometres take the left at the T junction through Minane Bridge and following signs for Roberts Cove. After a few kilometres you will go down a hill and see a sign for a dangerous bend. On this bend follow a minor road off to the right where Rocky Bay is signed. After a couple of kilometres you come to another T junction. Go right and then take the first left. This brings you to Rocky Bay. Paul Harrington has developed some bouldering in Rocky Bay, Cork.

104 Kerry

The corrie on the side of Mount Brandon (Q 463 122) on the Dingle peninsula has plenty of slabby outcrops and a few isolated boulders, which are approached by the main tourist path. On the descent from Connor Pass towards Ventry a few kilometres down the valley is small layby, about 50m above the road is nice overhanging boulder. There is an excellent looking slopey lip traverse and some very steep sitstarts to do.

The valley below the Coomasaharn horseshoe (near Glenbeigh) has lots of quality bouldering, but it’s a long walk. From the village of Glenbeigh, instead of continuing to Cahersiveen, you take a left on to a boithrín out of the village, and head for the horseshoe shaped mountain. From here its a few hours walk to the boulders.

Hungry Hill down in West Cork on the way to Castletownbere is also a good spot. Go over to the western end (follow a boithrín up from the main road to a little lake, then head towards the mountain. After ten or twenty minutes, you will come across a giant boulder about ten metres high and made of Old Red Sandstone. This has one overhanging side and a very technical ramp on the other. A little further east is a wall with plenty of highballs.

There is at least one decent boulder about twelve kilometres north of Glengarrif on the right of the road.

There is some bouldering in an area called Bull Head just outside Dingle in Kerry. The rock is very solid Old Red Sandstone with lots of edges. Most of the problems don't top out as the cliffs are often high with soil cornices however the landings are sandy.

105 Gap of Dunloe

The Gap is the best bouldering area in Kerry, the rock is an excellent weathered Red Sandstone that at its best is gritstonesque. The boulders are quite feature with an even mix of slopers, crimps and pockets. The majority of problems developed here are quality, highball lines. So bring a few mats and spotters.

Nigel Callender, Damien O'Sullivan, Eoin Kennedy, Mick Walsh and Hugh Henessey developed most of the bouldering in the Gap.

In April 2009 Eoin Kennedy wrote a guide to the bouldering in the Gap and the Black Valley just in time for the first Gap climbing meet.

During the summer the Gap can be very busy with walkers, cyclist and horse drawn carts. This coupled with the narrow roads can make driving up the Gap very slow going. Either drive up and down early in the morning or late in the evening. Otherwise park at Kate’s and walk up. Brennan’s Leap

The first area you come to when heading up the gap is Brennan’s Leap. The low crag is on the right hand side before the first bridge. There are plenty of short routes, traverses and eliminates to do.

106 The Main Crag

There are about 25 problems below the main face. Most of the problems are quite short and the landings are generally good. Less than 10 minutes from the road and on the approach to the Main Crag, the boulders are handy for a warm up before doing some real climbing. Park at Brennan’s Leap or just past the bridge between Black Lake and Echo Lake.

The Elbow is the first boulder you come to, its easily recognisable by the vertical crack splitting the front face, all the following problems have SS. The holds are nice and big so it’s a good spot to warm up.

1 Four B Double D 5 Left side of the arete. 2 Left Elbow 5 The centre of the face left of the crack. 3 The Craic Attack 5 The crack itself. 4 Right Elbow 5 The centre of the face right of the crack.

The Coffin is a steep roof just to the right of the Elbow.

5 The Coffin 6b The very steep roof, use of the blocks is at your discretion.

Mick’s Magic is further up the hill and has a triangular front face.

6 - 5 Left side of the arete. 7 Mick’s Magic 6c Undercut from the tiny footholds to get the good edge. 8 - 5 The crack.

Carrig Eire is just above Mick’s Magic and it bears a remarkable resemblance to Ireland. There are a few more easy problems on the back of this boulder. The following three problems have dicey landings.

9 West Coast 5 Left side of the arete. 10 Mizen to Malin 6a+ The centre of the face is hardest at the start but the landing is a sloping boulder. 11 The Pale 5 Another tricky landing.

Hup-hup is the steep roof with the dodgy landing just slightly downhill and to the right of Carrig Eire.

12 Hup-hup 6b Strenuous problem with the crux at the start. Start on the big juggy flake, don’t use the other blocks for your feet. Either finish straight up or follow the juggy rail left.

The Boar is the steep boulder on the left – facing uphill.

13 Snout Wrestling 6b+ SS. The hanging prow of the Boar with a dyno for the lip to finish. Use the block on the left for feet, a lot harder without the block. An Collach is the rightwards finish. 107

The Piglet is the long block to the right.

14 - 4+ Wall left of the overlap 15 - 4+ Through the overlap. 16 An Sron 6b From a SS start below the small triangular overlap on the right of the wall.

Croc boulder.

17 - 5 Left arete of the uphill face. 18 Pobla na Pairti 6a Crimp your way up the middle of the uphill face. 19 - 4 Right side of the uphill face 20 Jug Arete 4 Through the overlap on the left of the downhill face. 21 - 5+ Harder SS just to the right, nice finish. 22 Scale Scaler 6c The centre of the textured face.

The following problems are further to the right close to the crag.

23 Reading Problems 6a+ The roof crack formed by the two boulders, can be laybacked or jammed. Thrutchy topout. 24 An Puc Fada 6b Start on the right of the bulging face, traverse the juggy rail left reach out to and finish up the left arete. 25 Juan is a Langer 7a+ SS as for An Puc Fada and bust straight up the face on small holds.

108 Watchtower

The Watchtower area is three kilometres up the Gap from Kate Kearney’s Cottage, on the left side of the road opposite the fourth lake (Auger Lake).

At the moment this area should not be in climbed in as there is an access issue.

Aisling’s Arete 6 is hidden in a dip across the river from the grassy ridge, climb the high arete on its left hand side on good holds. Little Groove 4 is the obvious short groove on the small boulder 20m right of Aisling’s Arete. Violence 6c/7a is the sitting start to the short arete on the right of the square cut block clearly visible from the Watchtower. One 7a+ is the steep and technical roof.

About 50m to the right of the Watchtower is Escape Artist 6b which takes the high wall with the slopey topout.

The Watchtower is the obvious, massive, heather topped block clearly seen from the road on the left side of the boulder field. Problems tend to be highball, but landings generally excellent. Descend carefully via the heather covered side facing the cliffs then jump onto a pre placed mat. Three sides of this boulder are steep and have potential for me hard linkups and traverse problems.

1 All Along the Watchtower 6c The obvious arete on the left side of the slabby face. Climbed on left side from standing. 2 Unfinished 6c/7a The SS on the lower of two obvious sloping rails on the opposite side of the block to the slab. Currently finishes on jug, needs proper finish. 3 The Fifth Ace 7a+/7b The SS to the short arete on the right of the steep block clearly seen directly across from The Watchtower 4 - 6c Starting at the right side of the slabby face below a vague scoop a series of deadpoints leads to a hairy finish.

109 Head of the Gap

The Head of the Gap is more of a highball area, it’s also shady and gets a breeze if there is one, so a good choice in the summer. There is room for two or three cars to park just past the Turnpike Rocks on the left, if these are taken park down at the ruined building near the Watchtower.

The Four Boulder has a few lines on the downhill face, all about 4. The boulder behind it is massive and has a large cave with a stone wall and doorway but the rock doesn’t look great.

On the back of the Big Big Boulder are 2 slab lines again at around 4. The boulder to the left of Big Big has another 2 4’s, the corner and the wall to the left.

The Bridge Boulder has a steep down valley side that might yield a problem or two, watch out for loose holds.

Further up the valley just before the Black Lough is the Bridge Boulder with a few short problems on it.

110 Turnpike Rock

Further up the valley past the Watchtower Area and the old ruined house are the Turnpike Rocks. These boulders are much photographed and appear in many postcards. Don’t fall onto the road.

Edge of the Onion is a great problem, the rock has just enough texture to allow progress and the landing is perfect.

1 - 6b+ Start in the hole, follow the good edges on the arete until a dyno to a flat edge. Awkward but paddable landing. Looks a lot harder than it is. 2 Under the Red Sky 6c+ High and sharp arete with dodgy landing in the stream bed. 3 - P The blunt and slopey nose starts from the stream bed. 4 Edge of the Onion 6a+ Start low in the steep corner the follow the sloper arete right until a mantle becomes prudent. Brilliant. 5 Roadkill 6b/c The centre of the steep paint covered face. Using the sidepull. 6 Right Arete 6a The right arete of the steep face. There is a variation of this problem that starts as for this problem and finishes up Roadkill. 7 - 4 The slab covered with the horizontal quartz stripes. Hex

About 100m further up the road on the left side are two more boulders, the left, Hex is a beautifully textured boulder. The boulder to the right has a very Big Slab which takes the line of pockets up the middle of the face and wanders left at the top.

1 - 6b Just right of the arete a seam runs through the roof gain this from a standing start and follow the seam onto the upper slab 2 Marcel’s 6c Up the face finishing with a big slap, there is also Problem a traverse of this face at 6b+. 3 - 6b From a sitting start on friendly pockets on the right arete, power up and into a groove directly above the arete. 4 Help the Blind 6 After the first move of the previous problem bear right to pockets and up the vague scoop. 5 - 5 Brilliant problem on small but incut pockets just left of the arete. 6 Batman 4 The line of good holds in the middle of the face.

111 Black Valley

The approach to the Black Valley through the Gap is best done early or late in the day as the roads are very narrow with few passing places if you meet other cars.

High up close to Lough Curraghmore are some huge boulders, one monster in particular. However the rock doesn’t really lend itself to bouldering for some strange reason.

Dromluska Boulder

A very nice boulder, a close to prefect angled wedge of sandstone. About 10 minutes across and up the hillside.

Drive uphill past the parking spot for Lough Reagh and park beside the ruined cottage and head north west up the hillside. The boulder is pretty obvious, there might be more bouldering near the steep stream to the left.

1 Kev’s Arete 5+ The fin like arete, the top out is bottled a bit by rocking out before the apex. High. 2 - P The centre of the overhanging face using the curving thin crack/corner is a fine challenge. 3 - 5 Very nice slab.

112 Lough Reagh

The boulders are either side of the waterfall at the back of the valley above Lough Reagh, the left side in particular has plenty more potential. The farmer who owns the land is used walkers crossing his land however if you see him ask permission to continue. Close the three or four gates pass through. No dogs.

Park before the road steepens on the left past the concrete bridge, walk a few hundred meters back down the road, go through the gate past the sheep pens and go through the gate on the left. Follow the track alongside the lake to the ruin then follow the stream uphill to check out the first boulders then work your way around the lake to return to the road and to your the car.

Damien O'Sullivan, Eoin Kennedy, Hugh Henessey and Mick Walsh were the first to boulder here in 2007.

113

Little Miss is on the large slabby outcrop with the holly bush sticking out.

1 Little Miss 6c Slab left of the arete.

Above this is Cracked.

2 Cracked 5 Thin crack that splits the slab.

Steep roof on the uphill side of the boulder.

3 Grated Cheese 6b+ SS on the left of the roof with one hand on the lip and one hand under the roof. 4 Gritty 6a+ Mantle the nose to the right.

Flashdance is a great highball slab.

5 Left Feet 6a Start in the middle and head left. 6 Flashdance 6a+ Same start as Left Feet but head right, crux right at the top.

Distant Faces, two boulders side by side around the hillside across the stream on the edge of the scree.

7 Distant Faces P Beautiful clean slab. It’s possible to escape out left at halfway at 6c but it misses the point a bit. 8 - 6a+ Arete right hand side. Highball with a slopey landing. 9 Underbalance 6a+ Balancy problem using the undercuts. 10 Half 5+ Lowball 11 - 6a On the boulder to the right is a ramp SS on the lip and follow this. 12 - 5+ Arete. Soggy landing.

Rock and Lock is downhill where the scree meets the flat ground beside the lake.

13 Rock and Lock 5+ SS under the roof. Rockover using the jug just over the lip. Brilliant problem.

Shout.

14 - 6a Crimpy wall, doesn’t top out. 15 Shout 6b+ SS, powerful moves with an awkward top out.

The Wave Boulder contains one of the best problems in Kerry, The Bone Yard Arete.

16 The Kerry Waves 5 Traverse the elegant curved arete on the uphill side of the boulder. 17 The Bone Yard Arete 6c+ SS on the sloping ledge use the block for your feet and make some powerful fingery moves to a very tricky top out on micro holds. The start has been done without the block for feet at around 7b.

Jurgen Myers, the last 3 problems are on the steep backside of the boulder.

18 Ziggy 6a+ Snake your way up the side face. 19 - 6b+ SS, powerful moves with an awkward top out. Right hand problem. 20 - 7a+ Is this the crack that tackles the longest part of the overhang. Middle problem. 21 - 6a Left hand problem.

There is another boulder behind this with a nice stepped roof.

114 Clare

The Karst landscape of the Burren features lots of low vertical limestone cliffs and covers over a hundred square kilometres so there are bound to be some good problems - however the rock tends to be quite featured and vertical. There are a few problems on the blank scooped wall in the car park at Ailladie one in particular is called Anguish, 7b/c, start by stepping into the break using 2 opposing 2 finger dimples, optimistically throw for the poor crimp, stick this and move the left hand to another poor 2 finger hold before nailing the jug. There are also some boulders on the platforms below the main crag. Toit le Cul de Clare

Le Toit de Cul de Claire (R 522 887) is a sandstone roof in east Clare, not far from Lough Ea, northwest of Feakle village. From Tulla or Feakle, follow the road that goes to Maghera Mast passing by Glendree. Once you have past the top of the hill, you will notice a boulder field with a little crag behind. The boulders are not of much interest but the crag has some serious potential. There is just enough space for two cars beside the start of the path.

The roof itself is hidden behind some bushes and stands literally down below the East Clare Way, about 5 minutes walk from the road. One must walk up the path following a fence above some bushy mini-cliffs. There is an obvious way down before you reach the top of the crag.

Pierre Fuertes found the roof called Le Toit Le Cul De Clare on St Patrick’s Day ’06 and has returned regularly to add more problems.

1 Cold Turkey 6b Upper traverse on the roof lip. SS on left side of the roof. Up to the roof edge and traverse right. Small edges at the beginning and big jugs finish. The French 7a Very long loop traverse linking the lip of the

Connection roof from Cold Turkey to the underside

mantelpiece and back to the start. 2 Le Toit de P Cool project through the roof. From the Cul de Claire mantelshelf to a half moon edge stretch to the lip of the roof. 3 Munster 6b Start in the corner below the roof. A few foot Rules locks and a little bit of crimping (not always dry) will get your left hand to a two finger pocket outside the roof. Then up to a good ledge. 4 Rugby 6a Start as for Munster Rules but wuss up right Champagne in the corner. 5 Triple Crown 5+ Start on the big jugs below the mini-roof. A good heel, knee or leg lock will allow you to deal with the good ledges above. Then Mantelshelf. 6 Grand Slam 6b+ Adding the traverse on the lower mantelshelf below the roof to one of the three preceding problems gives you a grand slam. 7 French 7b Traverse project linking Grand slam and Connection 2 Cold Turkey. 8 Blue Bottle 5 Up the face and top out. 9 Biddy Early’s 6a Quality arete. Lift yourself up onto the nose Nose using a good hidden jug. Follow the arete and top out. 10 - P Start below the roof of Biddy Early’s Nose. Good holds are hidden in the corner above on

the right. From there, powerful mantelshelf.

115 Doolin

The bouldering in Doolin, or more precisely Lackglass, is on limestone cliffs and boulders which dry quickly in the wind. Some climbing is possible at all stages of tide but be careful of waves washing the ledges. After a big storm the boulders can get shifted around.

The landings are flat but rocky and some of the problems are high so a pad is a good idea. Puddles can be a bit of a pain so a tarp could also be useful.

Further to the north is more rock on the lower tier, but it is much taller, routes really.

Drive down the small lane opposite the Aran View Hotel, follow it to the end and park making sure not to block the gate. Walk directly towards the sea and scramble down to the ledges.

Al Sarhan was the first to boulder in Doolin in ’05 with others not far behind, it has since become popular with the Galway climbers. Grzegorz Florek wrote a bouldering guide to Doolin that appeared in the 2008 Burren guide and was the first bouldering section in a print guide in Ireland. In 2007 on the eve of should surgery that was to put him out of action for months Nigel Callender climbed Night follows day Doolin’s hardest problem.

116 North

Kostya’s Wall is the long slightly overhanging wall with many problems in the 4/5 range.

Base camp has nice rough limestone boulders with quick drying rock and the driest landings. The climbing is also more three dimensional that on the cliff edges. The jumble of boulder contains some steep problems.

1 Body hammer 7b Traverse the overhanging block. 2 The Ramp 6b+ Arete. 3 Sleepy hollow 6c Crimpy face to the recessed box. 4 Al’s problem/Deeper 7a There are two lowball SS on this steep block. 5 - 5 Nice slopey arete. 6 Doolin traverse 6a Traverse. 7 Positive fluids 5+ Left line of the steep wall. 8 Feetless 6a Right side of the same wall. 9 The crack 4 Mantle into a sitting position on the ledge, then stand up to undercut for the top. 10 On the edge 5+ Mini roof. Off Width Her Head 4 Wide chimney just to the right of On the edge. 11 Cracker 3 The crack in the middle of the slab. 12 Sider 3 Line of weakness up the middle of the face. 13 Skinner 6b Line of blankness to the right. 14 Sticker 5 Thin finger crack. 15 Right edge 5 Arete. Bob’s traverse 6b+ Mid height traverse, either direction. 16 BC 5+ Arete. 17 Mars 4 Tricky finish. 18 Jug city 4 Start on the flat jug. 19 Sidepull 4 Tricky start to the good sidepull. 20 Monkey bars 4 Right of the arete on the rough textured slopers. 21 Doolin crack 5 Crack. 22 Sting 4 The right arete of the quartz coated boulder which has another boulder stacked on top. 23 - 4 Mantle. 24 - 4 Slab. 25 - 4 Middle of the blank slab.

117 Middle

The vertical wall is known as Reardon Memorial Wall, it’s pretty high and probably not to everyone’s taste. The slightly overhanging wall containing Big Foot and Gutbusters and the deep cave with Emerland, Doolin Café are outstanding.

1 BMX 5 High but can step off onto the boulder behind. Thin move at the top. 2 - 5 Arete. 3 Storm door 6a/6b Crimpy face to the recessed box. 4 Standard Corner 4 Jagged corner. 5 Deviation 4+ Up right of the corner and then right around the overhang. 6 Reardon’s Mailbox 6b Crimpy. Can seep. 7 A Roof over your head 6a+ Through the overlap at half height. 8 Bachar’s cock lock 6c ??? 9 Pop, jump, lock 6b+ Bit of a jump to start. 10 Da light 6a ??? 11 Standard finger crack 5+ The sharp edged crack. 12 The slab 4+ The slabby start needs a bit of balance. 13 Abandoned 4 Slab 14 Big foot 6a+ The left hard side of the overhanging wall is excellent, SS. Lovely gaston move. 15 Gutbusters 6b+ The higher right hand side of the face is also great, lovely small edges. 16 Foolin’ in Doolin 5+ Very small holds to start. 17 Emerland 6c+ The line of least resistance starting from the undercut heading to the big ledge. Doolin Café Arete 7a+ Same start but don’t use the big ledge. Renegades 6c Same start again but head straight through the roof. 18 Octopus 4 Slopey topout. 19 Ross seal 4 Easy start. 20 Medusa 4 Crack 21 Grey whale 4 Sharp crack.

118 South

The boulder on the right has some good physical problems and link-ups. Watch on for waves.

1 Sphinx 3 Left edge of the wall. 2 Scarab 5+ High. Good flat hold to start and then two slots to the topout. 3 Black Mamba 5++ High. Thin line up the middle of the face. 4 System crack 5 Crack with the halfway ledge. 5 Broken 6b Low traverse of the north side of the boulder. 6 Solid Works 7a Low slopey traverse of the south side of the boulder, finish as for The Corner. 7 The Corner 7a SS in the corner, some sharp holds and a blank topout. 8 La Machina De La Muerte 5 Wide crack. 9 Arete 6b The Arete. 10 Al’s variation 7a+ SS straight up. The Valve 6c+ starts here and finishes up the Arete. 11 Night follows day 7c Start just left of the arete and traverse right to finish up Black Corner. 12 Fireworks 7b Start as for Al’s variation and head right up and via the nice slopey edge. 13 Black Corner 6c SS using the sidewall. 14 Outsider 5+ SS the arete. Killilagh sit start 5+ SS under overhang/roof to the right of Outsider. Far out 6a Start as for Outsider and traverse low into Killilagh sit start and finish up, pumpy.

Fanore

There is a roof near the road in Fanore that is climbable all but the most prolonged and heavy rain. The rock is filthy and quite loose but if you are prepared to put in some work it's behind the church in Fanore, exit the church carpark and head up the hill. John Harrison discovered a new roof near the road in Fanore, Clare that is climbable on in the rain.

119 Mayo

Strictly speaking, some of the areas on the north side of Killary harbour included in the Connemara section are in Mayo. The areas below are also quite close to the Sligo area, so it’s all a bit confusing.

Near Swinford is an unusual large schist flake leaning at an angle of forty-five degrees. There are a few steep problems on this, and a few vertical crimpy problems on the boulder behind. The flake is a few minutes past Swinford on the N26 on the left hand side. It’s hard to see until you’ve passed it, as some trees block the view of it.

In Roosky there are some nice problems on rock similar to that of Glendalough but more featured with edges and slopers. To get there, continue past the Swinford flake, and turn right at the sign for Attymass/Bonniconlon. Go straight through the crossroads and take a right turn at the sign for Attymass and Bonniconlon. After a couple of minutes, turn right at the stone marked for Roosky. Head uphill while sticking on the main boithrín. Park at the lay-by on the left, close to the right hand side of the small crag on the hill. The most obvious boulders are beneath the crag.

Dave Hanlon found a few nice boulders around Roosky in Mayo. Waterford

In Coumshingaun – said to be the best example of a corrie in Ireland – in the Comeragh Mountains there is some bouldering on conglomeratic sandstone with large pebbles and cobbles. The rock might not be to everyone taste. The walk-in is about half an hour uphill.

According to climbing.ie there are numerous bouldering possibilities in Ballinaclough (S 537 056), five kilometres south west of Waterford city on small rocky outcrops. Leitrim/Cavan/ Fermanagh

The Holy Grail of Irish climbing. There are miles of gritstone crags in this area, so there must be some great bouldering as well. Louth

Clogherhead north of Drogheda has a few problems but the main bouldering area in Louth is the Cooley Mountains. Windy Gap was the first area bouldering in the Cooleys. There is tons of Gabbro but it can get very sharp.

120 The White Bog

The White Bog is an upper valley nested in the Cooley Mountains. The crags have some potential for a few small routes but the scree has excellent bouldering and is really worth the journey. There are also plenty of small outcrops around with good potential for further bouldering developments. Pierre Fuentes and Declan Tormey first visited the place in May 2008 and climbed the Starter Arete and The Nose, it was a then further developed by Pierre Fuentes in the following summer months.

The rock is an excellent dark gabbro. Although it is very sharp, the grains and crystals are very small which makes it possible to climb even on a hot summer day. The valley is well weathered, but the scree is facing south west and is high enough to get a lot of wind.

After passing the Windy Gap car park you reach a junction, take the road to the left. After about 2.5km Glenmore and the waterfall should be on your left hand side. Park on the side of the road before a couple of lane ways to the left. Walk up the farm lane way. Follow the path that leads to the bottom of the hill side behind the fields (two gates and an old cottage ruins). Turn left straight up the hill following the remains of old stone wall (steep but no ferns). Pass a couple of berms until you arrive in the White Bog valley, the scree should lie in front of you at the bottom of a crag. (20 minutes walk).

121

The Starter Arete is on the left, hidden in a hollow. The landing is excellent, the rock is not too sharp and the problems are easy, making this area perfect for warming up.

1 - 5+ Wall left of the tall arete: up on small crimps eliminating the jugs to the left 2 Starter Arete 5 Up the arete 3 - 5+ Up the wall eliminating the arete 4 Starter Traverse 6a Traverse the lip from right to left 5 Dec’s sit start 6b SS deadpoint and up the round corner. 6 Pierre’s sit start 6b SS deadpoint to poor crimps then hard pull to the top and rockover.

The plate boulder is the huge flat boulder at the bottom of the scree. It has a good overhang on the left side and a big blank enough roof on the right side.

7 Lesbian Treaty 7a+ SS on the obvious bottom side pull right hand. Using a high flake far left, slap up to the break, match and move right on the crack. Avoid the V groove and go for a dynamic finish via the upper crimps. Three Stars. 8 - 5 Using the crack of Lesbian Treaty and a side pull to the right slap into the V groove and rockover. 9 - 6a SS on the bottom left of the big roof. Rock over to a couple of good crimps and top out. 10 - P Traverse on the lip of the roof. 11 Media Tick 7a SS on the crimps in the groove with a good heel on the left. Cross through to the crimps on the right, slap to the lip and rock over. Easier for the small.

The Pebble is the biggest boulder sitting in the middle of the scree. It has a couple of slopey lips with various slab top out variations.

12 Blade Runner 6c SS from the jug. Move left onto the sharp crimps and left again to a hidden jug. Reach the lip of the overhang to top out via the left steps. For a bolder finish rockover onto the slab and top out. 13 - 6b SS and traverse the lip. Same finish as Blade Runner. 14 - 6c+ A little overhang located to the rear of the Pebble boulder. Hard SS pull up on the rather sharp break and top out.

The Nose is the big obvious pointy piece of rock at the top of the scree. An awesome problem with a nice grassy landing. Unfortunately rarely in conditions due to a green terrace above that keeps water running onto it.

15 The Nose 7b Start under the roof. Using a crimp to the right, the sharp arete and a heel hook, slap up to the nose then rock over the lip of the roof. Descent to the right. SS project from deep back wall.

The following boulder is located below and to the right of the Pebble. It has a nice little vertical face in the shadow and is perfect to warm up.

16 - 4 Right straight-up 17 - 6a Low traverse 18 - 4 Left straight-up follow the break.

The Ship Boulder is the big outcrop that stands on the far right of the scree. 19 - P The high stem arete. 20 The Leak 5 SS the vertical crack with a high enough top out. 21 Waterline 6a Same start but traverse the horizontal crack and finish round the corner to the extreme right.

122 Wexford

Rocklands (T 050 200) is an outcrop about two kilometres outside Wexford town on the Rosslare road. It has some bouldering, but is not worth travelling any great distance to. Down

The Greyabbey Boulder (a.k.a. The Yerp Boulder) is about one mile outside Greyabbey on the road to Kircubbin; it’s visible from the road on a long sweeping bend, opposite a couple of bungalows. It’s about two to four metres high, with about a dozen problems. A pad is useful as the landings are rocky. High tide comes up to the edge of the boulder. Limerick

Beagh, near Askeaton in Co. Limerick, and about thirty minutes from the city, has some steep bouldering. It is below the castle, right on the riverbank; high tide comes up to the base, but you can always get something done. The crag stays dry in light rain but can seep. The rock is limestone, thirty metres long, three to four metres high, and overhangs by five degrees for most of its length. None of the lines are particularly hard, but there is potential for eliminates.

There is a limestone crag behind the Dromolond Castle estate near Shannon. As you are leaving New-Market-On-Fergus, take the right turn beyond the petrol station (on left). You follow this road along, and come to a car park for a large ring-fort. From the carpark, follow the trail away from the road, around the hill that the fort is built on. Eventually, a limestone crag appears on your right. There are a number of problems, mostly mid grade with fairly bad landings, so bring a pad. There is potential for one or two routes also. Unfortunately, some asshole has decided to bring the climbing down to their level and chipped a few problems on the right hand end of the crag.

More bouldering can be found above Lough Gur, on the Kilmallock road; this is easy to find and well signposted. From the carpark, the bouldering is up on the hill above the lake on a limestone outcrop. There are a few mid-grade problems here, but holds tend to rip off unexpectedly, so be careful. There are also plenty of other outcrops in the surrounding area that might be worth a look.

Closer to Limerick City, there are a few problems and a sport route (!) at Knockadere Quarry. However access is no longer permitted to the quarry. Thanks

Aaron Boyd, Al Sarhan, Al Millar, Ali Wilson, Andy Marshal, Andy Robinson, Barry O’Dwyer, Bernie O’Rourke, Biddy Early, Brian McSweeney, Craig Hiller, Christian Brandtner, Dave Ayton, David Nowak, Con Moriarty, Dave Hanlon, Dave Miller, Damien O’Sullivan, Diarmuid Duggan, Diarmuid Smyth, Dominic Douglas, Domhnall Brannigan, Eddie Cooper, Eddie Barbour, Eoin Lawless, Eoin Kennedy, Eoin O’Sullivan, Frank Winder, Gavin Williams, Geoff Somerville, Geoff Thomas, Gerry Fogg, Harry Fogg, Howard Hebblethwaite, Iain Miller, James Gernon, Jenny Halford, Joe Purser, John Gaskins, John Loane, John Lynch, John McConville, John Watson, Joss Lynam, Juan O’Raw, Keith Willet, Kevin Byrne, Kev Cooper, Kevin Moroney, Malcolm O'Beirn, Michael Duffy, Michael O’Dwyer, Mark Lloyd, Mark Rocks, Nigel Callender, North Wales Mafia, Paul Harrington, Paul Swail, Peter Cooper, Pete Smith, Peter Tom McMahon, Pierre Fuentes, Robert Nelson, Ricky Young, Rodney Moore, Sam Gordan, Sé O’Hanlon, Seamus Crowley, Stephen McMullan, Steve Webster, Stu Hamilton, Tim Chapman, Toby Foord-Kelcey, Tony Rooney.

123