TheShortSpan A guide to bouldering in Ireland By David Flanagan Version 5.0 Autumn 2009 Bouldering is dangerous, do it at your own risk 1 Contents Contents ........................................................................................................ 2 Introduction ................................................................................................... 4 History........................................................................................................... 5 Using the guide............................................................................................... 8 Ethics ............................................................................................................ 8 Dublin ........................................................................................................... 9 Portrane .......................................................................................................................10 Bullock Harbour .............................................................................................................18 Dalkey Quarry ...............................................................................................................21 Three Rock....................................................................................................................22 The Scalp......................................................................................................................23 Esoterica ......................................................................................................................27 Wicklow ........................................................................................................29 Stonecutter’s Glen..........................................................................................................30 Lough Bray ...................................................................................................................32 Cloghogue ....................................................................................................................33 Lough Dan ....................................................................................................................35 Glenmacnass.................................................................................................................38 Carrigshouk ..................................................................................................................42 Mall Hill ........................................................................................................................43 Wicklow Gap .................................................................................................................46 Annalecka .....................................................................................................................54 Glendalough..................................................................................................................58 Glenmalure ...................................................................................................................67 Esoterica ......................................................................................................................68 Donegal ........................................................................................................69 Barnesmore Gap ............................................................................................................70 Malin Beg......................................................................................................................70 Muckross Head ..............................................................................................................71 Doochary ......................................................................................................................72 Polldoo Glen ..................................................................................................................74 Crolly ...........................................................................................................................76 Cruit Island ...................................................................................................................78 Burtonport ....................................................................................................................78 Mullaghdoo ...................................................................................................................79 Carrickfin......................................................................................................................80 Dunaff Bay....................................................................................................................81 Fanad Head...................................................................................................................83 Rubonid Point ................................................................................................................84 Esoterica ......................................................................................................................85 Connemara ...................................................................................................86 Inish Mór ......................................................................................................................87 Barna...........................................................................................................................90 Derryrush .....................................................................................................................91 Roundstone...................................................................................................................94 Jim's Nook ....................................................................................................................95 Prehistoric Boulder .........................................................................................................96 Leenane Boulders...........................................................................................................96 Bundorragha Boulder......................................................................................................96 Delphi Valley .................................................................................................................97 Esoterica ......................................................................................................................98 Mournes........................................................................................................99 Fairhead ..................................................................................................... 100 Main Edge................................................................................................................... 101 2 Sligo........................................................................................................... 103 Aughris Head............................................................................................................... 103 Cork ........................................................................................................... 104 Kerry.......................................................................................................... 105 Gap of Dunloe ............................................................................................................. 106 Black Valley ................................................................................................................ 112 Clare .......................................................................................................... 115 Toit le Cul de Clare....................................................................................................... 115 Doolin ........................................................................................................................ 116 Mayo .......................................................................................................... 120 Waterford.................................................................................................... 120 Leitrim/Cavan/ Fermanagh ............................................................................ 120 Louth.......................................................................................................... 120 The White Bog............................................................................................................. 121 Wexford...................................................................................................... 123 Down.......................................................................................................... 123 Limerick...................................................................................................... 123 Thanks ....................................................................................................... 123 3 Introduction This bouldering guide to Ireland has details of about fifteen hundred boulder problems from all over the country. The bouldering in Ireland is generally found near the coasts. Granite predominates, being found in Dublin, Wicklow, Galway, Down and Donegal; thus the bouldering style tends towards technical moves on rounded holds. Some of the best bouldering is in popular tourist spots such as Glendalough in Wicklow, the Aran Islands, Kerry and Connemara - this