30916_Cover 6/11/01 4:22 pm Page 1 ISSUE 24 - WINTER 2001 £2.50 Festival Of Climbing Are You Ready For It ? All Tooled Up Ice Axe Development Going In The John Muir Trust ACT COMPETITION SOUTH AMERICA AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVERS BMC CHANGES • EXPEDITIONS • MOUNTAIN TRAVEL • MALLORY FOREWORD... GLOBAL SUMMITS (LEFT) The UIAA Summit Charter. (TOP) Roger Payne contemplating global summits. At first sight it may seem strange to suggest the Cuillins of Skye as a possible peace park. However, Skye has been the scene of clan battles, and the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut was erected in memory of all those who fell during the sec- ond world war. Also, following the failure of the disputed sale of the Cuillins perhaps John MacLeod of MacLeod will be prepared to renounce any ownership claim. What a fantastic gesture that would be as a commitment to peace and freedom in the International Year of Mountains. At the launch of the UIAA Summit Charter Robert Pelousek the deputy education minister for Austria was in the mood to make gestures. In an excellent speech in which he high- lighted the many benefits of climbing and mountaineering he announced that Austria would like to see indoor climbing as a component of sports education for all 6 to 11 year olds. He amusingly pointed out that anyone who can learn o, what does it mean that the United Nations to climb and walk in mountains when they are young “…will has designated 2002 as the International Year have no problem moving around on the slippery flatlands Sof Mountains? Will mountains get bigger later in life!” during the year? Or perhaps gravity will be reduced to make them easier to climb? Anyway, isn’t the There is lots happening to celebrate the International Year UN busy solving global problems? of Mountains with various launch events at the Festival of Climbing on 7 to 9 December including the launch of the The response that the mountaineering federations have Access and Conservation Trust with Alan Michael MP, the taken to the International Year of Mountains (IYM2002) is Minister for Rural Affairs. You can keep up to date with the to agree a ‘Summit Charter’ which was adopted by the UIAA various events and initiatives via the BMC web site and by and launched at the recent General Assembly in Austria. visiting iym.org.uk (see Festival of Climbing programme for The charter is to remind everyone (but in particular Govern- more information) but high profile events include The Out- ments and international organisations) why climbing, hill doors Show at the NEC in Birmingham on 15 - 17 March walking and mountaineering are valuable and worthwhile 2002 (which will include the final of the British Bouldering activities with many health, social, educational and eco- Championship) and the National Outdoor Welcome being nomic benefits. Other key themes in the charter include all co-ordinated by the Outdoor Industries Association (which the obvious issues concerning access, conservation, risks, will feature many activity opportunities next Spring). youth, equal opportunities, and so on. But one of the less obvious themes is urging commitments to repair war dam- Make sure everyone knows 2002 is the International Year age in mountain areas and the resolution of mountain bor- of Mountains, support and, or, take part in some of the der disputes through new agreements. events being organised, join the celebration at the UK launch of the Summit Charter at the Festival of Climbing and make In the past various people have put forward ideas about sure anyone you know in a position of influence knows why ‘peace parks’ in mountain areas where there have been bor- it is important to protect the freedom to enjoy climbing, hill der disputes. Veteran Indian mountaineer and author Harish walking and mountaineering and the opportunity to experi- Kapadia would like such a scheme for the Siachen Glacier in ence these activities. the Karakoram where the armies of India and Pakistan face each other in the long-standing Kashmir border dispute. Recently and closer to home a suggestion has been put for- ward for a peace park in the mountains of Albania. But what about making a commitment to such a concept here in the UK? There has been recent dramatic progress with the peace General Secretary process in Northern Ireland, so why not? BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 24 1 30916_Summit24.p65 1 06/11/2001, 3:26 PM 24 CONTENTS Welcome to issue 24 of 4 News Festival of Climbing, Volunteer Leaders Conference, Act Launch. Summit is the membership maga- 8 Access News zine of the British Mountaineering Council. The BMC promotes the in- Woodhouse Damage, Staffs terests of climbers, hill walkers and sculpting, CRoW mapping, mountaineers and the freedom to en- area updates. joy their activities. The primary work of the BMC is to: 21 Briefing All the latest events. 26 Festival of Climbing Negotiate access improve- ments and promote cliff and mountain conservation. 40 Forum Promote and advise on good All Change - practice, facilities, training and equipment. What the BMC structure Support events and special- changes will mean to you. ist programmes including youth and excellence. 42 MLTB Provide services and infor- What's new at the MLTB. mation for members. 44 Arena BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 2BB Area news, Mancom summary. Tel: 0161 445 4747 REGULARS 14 John Muir Trust Fax: 0161 445 4500 14 e-mail: [email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk 10 All Tooled Up The history and devlopment EDITORIAL of ice axes. Contributions for Summit should be sent to Alex Messenger 14 Going In at the above address or The work of the John Muir [email protected]. Every Trust, and some great care is taken of materials sent for photos too. publication, however these are submitted at the sender's risk. 31 Deep Trouble 16 ACT PUBLISHING The new Access & 24 Giving Back Gill Wootton Conservation Trust - plus photo competition. An excerpt from the Display Advertising Mountain Travel Handbook Jane Harris & Lisa Undery giving something back to Classified 18 As the CRoW Flies local communities. Paula Taylor & Lindsay Wilson A look at voluntary vs statutary restrictions. Tel: 01536 382500 26 Festival of Fax: 01536 382501 22 Expeditions 2001 Climbing The biggest event of the year PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY Roundup of this year's trips. is near, find out more - who's Greenshires Publishing coming and what's going on. Telford Way, Kettering Northants, NN16 8UN 31 Deep Trouble Tel: 01536 382500 FEATURES Avalanche Tranceivers. Neither the BMC nor Greenshires Publishing accept responsibility for information supplied in adverts. Readers are advised to take 37 Travel Special reasonable care when responding to adverts. South America, travel and RISK & RESPONSIBILITY adventure. Readers of Summit are reminded that climbing, hill walking and mountain- 52 Journey's Ending eering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in Mallory's life. these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for Cover: Esk Pike from Great End, their own actions and involvement. The BMC publishes a wide range of safety Credit: John Beatty and good practice advice and provides 24 Giving Back training opportunities for members. 30916_Summit24.p65 2 08/11/2001, 12:17 PM LETTERS CLOSE YOUR HUTS! to the car park, appeared. He sailed courage his outrageous behaviour. At It is really encouraging to see the BMC past without a word of apology. some point a camper, or even Monsieur trying to find ways of supporting the The incident left me angry but has not Bernard himself, may be seriously hurt. rural economy. But may I suggest that frightened me off. I’ll be back on the You’re on holiday; why put up with an the policy of helping to support and rock, leading, as soon as commitments unpleasant landlord? There are nicer develop club huts is reconsidered? The allow. But it could have been very dif- places to camp in any case. clubs might be better off spending the ferent. If I was of a more nervous dis- Dan Bailey, London cash used to develop remote proper- position I could have been put off for a ties on local accommodation instead. long time. If I’d actually fallen any dis- FMD THANKS There are many excellent bunkhouses tance, I may well have been having I am writing in response to a letter writ- scattered throughout the mountainous serious thoughts about whether this ten by Mr Alan Brown in Summit 23 re- areas of the British Isles that are cry- person had been negligent, in failing to garding access during the FMD crisis. I ing out for business. In this way the check whether there was anyone climb- can understand his anger about access clubs will be supporting the local ing directly below the point where he but I feel that I should support the BMC economy of the areas they gain so chucked his rope over the edge. Surely on its decision to consider farmers in much enjoyment from and ridding if we want to keep the US-style ‘litiga- the way it has. I am a climber and being themselves of maintenance bills for tion mentality’ out of climbing, it’s im- up here in Scotland I too was inconven- distant properties in their ownership. perative that we don’t put others at risk ienced by the closure of most of its coun- For anyone interested in finding out through sheer stupidity. tryside. However, I am also a Veterinary more try: www.hostel-scotland.co.uk John Ripley, Warwickshire student and so I understand the impact and www.highland-hostels.co.uk.