32418_Cover 12/4/02 10:58 am Page 1

ISSUE 26 - SUMMER 2002 £2.50

Helmets Off Centre Impacts Culture Shock Climbers in Wadi Rum Be Inspired Stanage and On Peak Rock

ALPINE A – Z NEW INSURANCE PULLING POWER PHOTO COMP WINNERS • MOUNTAIN TRAVEL • YEARBOOK • EXHIBITION

FOREWORD... SUMMER SUMMITS

elcome to Summit 26 which this time focuses on mountain travel, summer rock and getting Wout in the great outdoors. For me, like many climbers and walkers, the day the clocks change is a notable date in the annual calendar. All of a sudden the winter blues start to fade away, the daffodils come into bloom, the evenings lengthen, optimism returns, plans start to become reality – it’s summertime and it's time to head for the hills!

The spring and summer months are indeed a wonderful time in the year-book. This year, the clocks went forward over the Easter weekend and for some of us, the sun even shone. Honeypot areas such as Snowdonia, the Lakes, the Yorkshire Dales and other National Parks were heaving with visitors: Portland, Pembroke and Gogarth bus- tled - people were out there doing it and the countryside was well and truly back in business. Personally, I had an unusually quiet Easter. Unlike many others who headed for Scotland, the Alps, Fontainebleau or Sardinia, I stayed at home, recharged my batteries, ate good food, drank Abso- lution and made plans for the year. A couple of long walks took me up and around the Kinder plateau, following in the footsteps of the Kinder trespassers on one occasion and scoping out some new lines on another. I flicked through some guidebooks and back copies of climbing magazines and jotted down a summer tick list. Like many of us with good intentions, I even started a new fitness regime - sev- eral harsh sessions at the New Stones, Gibb Tor, Stoney and Hobson Moor left me with pumped forearms, raw finger tips, but also with rekindled enthusiasm to get onto some big adventurous routes. Dave Turnbull on The Hood, Berry Head. Photo: Ken Palmer For clubs, the extra hour often marks the start of the sum- mer meets programme and as fair-weather climbers are once With 2002 being the UN International Year of Mountains, again prised out of the woodwork, long evenings are spent there have never been more opportunities for getting in- cragging or walking followed by banter and beer in the gar- volved with international climbing meets, exchanges and dens of favourite pubs. For outdoor education centres, the like. Wherever you go - be it home or abroad - enjoy training providers, guides and retailers, the summer period the summer. is a critical time for business. As people stream out of the cities to find fresh challenges in the hills, training courses fill up and gear shops take on extra staff - they deserve a better season this year following the trauma’s of Foot and Mouth in 2001. BMC Chief Officer

New guidebooks for a new year

Join, climb, and save! save! save! Looking for inspiration for the season ahead? These two forthcoming BMC guides for the Peak District should see you right. The new Stanage and On Peak Rock will be on the shelves, ready to get you through the long sunny eve- nings ahead, and with over 3.000 routes between them, they should keep you going for a few more sea- sons besides. Do all of the routes on- sight and win one month's FREE BMC membership and a matching chalk bag. For loads more fantastic member of- fers on guidebooks, see the BMC website.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 3

32418_Summit26.p65 3 15/04/2002, 10:47 AM 26 CONTENTS 6 News Welcome to issue 26 of All the latest news and developments from the BMC.

Summit is the membership 10 Access news magazine of the British Mountain- New Access Officer, eering Council. The BMC promotes Snowdonia Green Key, the interests of climbers, hill CRoW consultations. walkers and mountaineers and the 42 Culture Shock freedom to enjoy their activities. 32 The new yearbook The primary work of the BMC is to: 44 Arena Negotiate access improve- Mancom summary, ments and promote cliff and Annual accounts. mountain conservation. Promote and advise on good 54 MLTB practice, facilities, training Just a simple walk. and equipment. Support events and specialist programmes including youth 55 Briefing and excellence. All the latest events. Provide services and information for members. 62 Last thoughts A Matterhorn affair. BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 2BB Tel: 0870 010 4878 Fax: 0161 445 4500 REGULARS 12 Heavy Load e-mail: [email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk Packs - how to choose the right one for you. EDITORIAL Contributions for Summit should 18 Pulling Power be sent to the Editor Alex The joy of prussiks. 34 ACT Photo comp Messenger at the above address or [email protected]. Every 21 Insurance 34 ACT Photocomp care is taken of materials sent for Our great new policies. publication, however these are sub- The winners. mitted at the sender's risk. 22 Foreign 38 High Summer PUBLISHING Language The latest from the Helly Gill Wootton A - Z of the Alps. Hansen National Display Advertising Exhibition. Jane Harris 26 On Peak Rock Classified Change your life with Niall 40 Competitions Paula Taylor Grimes. Who's been winning what. Tel: 01536 382500 Fax: 01536 382501 30 Stanage 42 Culture Shock PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY Ring Ouzels & Funny A look at the impact of climbing on Wadi Rum. GreenShires Publishing Forums. Telford Way, Kettering Northants, NN16 8UN 32 Adventure 46 Mountain Travel Tel: 01536 382500 Exclusive extract from the FEATURES The exciting new yearbook publication is coming. acclaimed Mountain Neither the BMC nor GreenShires Publishing accept responsibility for information supplied in Traveller's Handbook. adverts. Readers are advised to take reasonable 16 Pulling Power care when responding to adverts. 50 Helmets RISK & RESPONSIBILITY Off-centre impacts examined. Readers of Summit are reminded that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a 52 Expeditions 2002 danger of personal injury or death. The BMC/MEF roundup. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and Cover: Ascending Mt Blanc. involvement. The BMC publishes a Credit: Alastair Lee. wide range of safety and good practice advice and provides training opportunities for members.

32418_Summit26.p65 4 16/04/2002, 9:31 AM LETTERS

IT WORKS BOTH WAYS with the proviso that if birds are seen genuine new investment has there been Steve Dowding makes several valid to be nesting on any of those but- in Snowdonia tourism anyway in the points in his letter in Summit 25, not tresses then climbing is not allowed. I past 40 years? The answer is remark- least that climbers may incur liabilities have suggested as much to SNH, but ably little, despite the availability of UK as well as have rights and responsibili- after nearly eighteen months of fairly tourist industry and European grants ties. This is very topical since two climb- persistent enquiries, their response is: and other sources of aid. We all know ers are currently going through the “Sorry to be a long time in getting one Snowdonia hotel that hasn’t had a Scottish Courts on a charge of disturb- back to you, I have been trying to check lick of paint in decades, how will restrict- ing a Schedule 1 bird in Glen Afton in with other sources in SNH , but due to ing cars stimulate lifeless businesses to the Scottish Lowlands. From a climb- the new proposed Land Reform Bill, invest in improvements? er’s point of view they had behaved they have been examining what impli- responsibly, selecting a route on the cations there may be. Will revert to you Peter Wood, Cirencester crag some distance from the nest site. once I have a more definitive answer.” This does not seem to have been I am not sure what relevance any bill CLIMBERS' NEEDS enough though and they may lose all has as to whether a bird is disturbed or The article on guidebooks presented a their gear, be fined, and saddled with not, and I am sure that such informa- balance between the two traditional a criminal record. tion already exists sufficiently that some camps. However I feel that they are ar- Whilst climbers are prepared to behave agreement could be reached. The prob- guing over the wrong points. Most climb- responsibly, there is surely an onus on lem is that we, the climbers, do not ers find that neither traditional or Rock the powers that be to give out guidelines know what it is, and they, the conser- Fax guides fully meet their needs. What as to exactly what does construe distur- vation bodies, won’t tell us - on the I believe most climbers want is up to bance to Schedule 1 birds. This is sim- record, at any rate. This is a bit like date crag information relating to route ply not happening. It seems obvious that having speeding legislation that says finding and realistic and standardised one risks disturbing a bird by climbing a you mustn’t drive too fast, with no idea grading across all locations. I believe line that passes through its nest, but of what or where the speed limits are. that typically climbers relate to , what about one that is 10m away, or on Whilst climbers recklessly disturbing over a specific location. As a result when a separate buttress? birds is not on, neither to my mind are guides such as On Peak Rock are pub- In the Lakes, we are fortunate in hav- conservation bodies recklessly banning lished they are winners. Sure critics will ing good working relationships with the access to everything rather than con- argue that this encourages star ticking, bodies involved and this has resulted in sidering the issues in the light of sci- but who spends their precious week- some sensible agreements like those at entific fact and reaching a balanced ends to do mediocre routes? Falcon Crags, Borrowdale. Here when the compromise. A complete ban that is As for the intellectual property argu- peregrines nested in the descent gully obviously unjustified is abusing the ment, this has as much validity as some- one spring, climbing was still allowed on system and is likely to put it into jeop- one registering the walks to the top of the lower crag provided one abseiled off. ardy. Most climbers are responsible Snowdon. Looking at parallel examples However such a system is unlikely to and would not want that to happen - such as walking guides, no one has a happen in the many parts of the country it’s time some of the conservation bod- monopoly on content, but organisations where the visitor numbers and resources ies showed a similar level of responsi- compete by offering different ap- do not justify it. It is therefore vital that bility and put into writing reasonable proaches. As Henry Ford once said ‘if there are nationally agreed guidelines guidelines about such issues. I’d have asked my customer what they worked out as to what is acceptable and wanted… they would have said a faster that guide book writers contact the own- Stephen Reid, Keswick horse’, so it is important to bring new ers or the responsible bodies for all the approaches to guide books forward and crags that they cover. LIFELESS BUSINESS test them with the public. We have got But even when a writer does contact Isn’t the BMC taking the Snowdonia used to mediocrity because we know the relevant bodies, useful information Green Key project too seriously or try- no better. This squabbling oligopoly is not always forthcoming. My own ex- ing too hard to appear reasonable in can’t be healthy for anyone. We need perience for an area of Scotland per- confronting a scheme that will not only to refocus the discussion away from the fectly illustrates this point. Whilst For- wreck Snowdonia for climbers and fringes and back to the average climber. est Enterprise have been more than walkers but which makes little eco- helpful, lifting unjustified bans and nomic sense? The project is described Alistair How, Midlands putting on other justified ones, one at as “a pioneering scheme aimed at my suggestion, SNH have failed to re- achieving sustainable rural develop- WRITE US A LETTER AND WIN THIS spond to some simple queries for over ment”, aiming to “stimulate new busi- GREAT BERGHAUS EXTREM SAC! a year. The crag in question is long but ness and tourism opportunities and Write in to Summit and you could win extremely broken, suitable for climbing better environmental management this great Berghaus Extrem Climb 32 li- through developing a network of inte- in only a handful of places, but those tre sac. This issue, the best letter is from grated transport alternatives to car buttresses provide the only local lower Stephen Reid. However he owns a gear travel”. I have read the strategy docu- grade and quick drying climbs. There are shop!, so we're giving the sack to Alistair ment at least twice and I can see no Schedule 1 birds nesting on the crag How. Now he can safely connection between the stimulation of but not on these buttresses. The birds carry plenty of guide- economic activity and restricting cars books to the crag. seem used to people as on the many except that someone will have to pro- occasions I have climbed there they vide the “integrated transport alterna- Next issue...it could be have never shown any signs of distur- tives”. The challenge to the backers you. Just email bance and the farmer is often buzzing of the project is therefore to demon- [email protected], or around below the crag on his motorbike. strate for us how restricting car use in post to BMC, 177-179 It seems reasonable that climbers Snowdonia will “stimulate new busi- Burton Road, Manches- should be allowed to climb on these ness” rather than destroying the ex- ter, M20 2BB. buttresses alone during the nesting isting fragile economy. season and on the rest of the The second question to ask of this crag during the remainder of the year, high-flown and unreal project is what

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 25 5

32418_Summit26.p65 5 15/04/2002, 10:49 AM NEWS

Maurice Simond Honoured! Resin on Southern Sandstone One of Chamonix’s most familiar and respected mountain- In the recent Jingo Wobbly guidebook, Sandstone, South eering figures was recently honoured with a plaque unveiled East England, the Good Form introduction is quite equivo- by the mayor of the town. But he wasn’t a guide or a hardman cal about the use of climbing resin, or ‘pof’ on rock. This is on the mountain… the resin traditionally used in Fontainebleau to improve the adhesive quality of the rock. In an otherwise highly sound Maurice Simond (1927-1999) was the proprietor of the introduction, it states that “Chalk and resin are used, some (in)famous Bar National, or the “Nash” – the favourite agree, some disagree!” In actual fact, very few agree about hangout of many of the hardcore British Alpinists of the resin, as it badly polishes rock, and while the user can have 60’s and 70’s. Tales abound of late night drinking ses- immediate benefit, it can leave a sheen on footholds that sions, marathon baby-football tournaments and “discus- will destroy their frictional qualities forever. The use of pof is sions” involving the likes of Whillans, Brown and Bonington, a national ethical issue, and the vast majority of climbers and no British visit to the valley is complete without a beer are very vocal in their disapproval of it. So, whatever you in the Nash after getting off the hill. may get up to in Fontainebleau, don’t be tempted to use After the unveiling, Maurice’s family and the new owner of resin in Britain, not on Southern Sandstone, nor anywhere the bar (but presumably not the mayor) celebrated with a else. traditionally long, boozy night at the Nash, and extended a welcome to climbers of all nationalities

Huts Whillans Memorial Hut The BMC is pleased to announce that Gary Cooper has BMC Huts Seminar, taken over the role of Booking Secretary for Rockhall Cottage. Plas y Brenin 19/10/02 Gary can be contacted at 4 Colcough Lane, Sandyford, Stoke The third BMC Huts Seminar will be held at Plas y Brenin on on Trent, ST6 5RL. Tel. 07710 509 227. Saturday 19th October 2002 at 3.30pm. The seminar will follow the previous format and will build on the discussions which took place at the 1st and 2nd seminars. In particular Hut Late Availability Scheme it will deal with building and planning regulations, legal liability, insurance, energy saving and access for disabled users. The BMC Discussion Boards is home to the new Late Avail- Anyone involved with managing or planning a club hut is ability Booking Scheme for Huts. The scheme is in its in- encouraged to attend. fancy and depending upon demand it may develop into a The seminar, which includes a hot supper at 8pm.is free. database based scheme. The current scheme allows Hut For full details see the Events section of the BMC website, Booking Secretaries to post details of any vacancies that for registration forms please contact Vanessa Hall at the they may have and also allows individuals or clubs looking BMC Office or email [email protected] for a hut to post requests.

Kilimanjaro: Pole, Pole (Slowly, slowly) In recent weeks an energetic debate has been conducted between the RGS, BMC and various folk involved in taking people up Kilimanjaro. The debate was kicked off when the RGS, concerned about the growing number of serious alti- tude related incidents on Kili, issued an advice sheet drafted by Paul Deegan and based on the research done for the BMC’s Mountain Traveller's Handbook. The paper cites two case studies and concludes that about ten days would be the optimal time of ascent based on purely medical grounds. Kibo from the Shira Plateau. Credit: Vanessa Lockyer The paper goes on the acknowledge that such a time period on Kilimanjaro alone is impractical, and therefore strongly · If individuals or clients are to be exposed to such a risk recommends pre acclimatisation trips to Mt Meru or Mt level they should be fully informed of this, and made aware Kenya. Now this advice (which reiterates what altitude ex- of alternatives, before they book the trip. perts have been saying for years) contrasts starkly with the · Whilst the BMC would not seek to be prescriptive and most common practice amongst groups which is the five suggest that a five day ascent, without pre acclimatisation, day ascent via the Marangu route (with no pre acclimatisa- is unjustifiable in any circumstances we feel that it is essen- tion) and the RGS has effectively said that such an ascent tial that all individuals considering ascending Kilimanjaro be is unjustifiable. Hence the debate - groups organising such aware that that the alternative of a longer ascent (risk re- trips see this stance as a serious threat to their businesses ducing with each extra day) or pre acclimatisation will sig- whilst those companies already undertaking longer trips or nificantly reduce risk levels and make the whole experience pre acclimatisation see this as a long awaited vindication of more enjoyable. In addition the choice of a route other than their good practice. So what’s the BMC’s view on this you the heavily used Marangu will have significant environmen- might ask? Looking at the facts we can sum it up as follows: tal benefits. · The incident rates (at times one in four with a serious Finally - if either time or money make alternatives to a five potentially life threatening illness and almost everyone feel- day ascent impossible then we would recommend that indi- ing pretty rough) for five day ascents are unacceptably high viduals consider an alternative objective before committing given that options exist. to Kilimanjaro. · This increased risk level is the result of almost purely fi- nancial considerations. In short doing Kili too quickly is potentially life threatening and definitely no fun.

6 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

32418_Summit26.p65 6 15/04/2002, 10:49 AM Competition News Helly Hansen 2002 Year of Following the successful conclusion of the TROLL BICC’02 and the A5 Series BBC’02 the new membership of the British Mountains lecture series Competition Climbing Team has been decided. For further Make a date to attend one of the forthcoming Helly Hansen details see www.thebmc.co.uk/indoor/comps/team.asp. lectures at the Rheged Discovery Centre, Penrith: Thursday Thanks to Berghaus, Beal and UK Sport for their continuing 23rd May - Adam Thomas; Wednesday 29th May - Airlie support. Details of the forthcoming UIAA-ICC Internationals Anderson; Thursday 6th June - Paul Moores; Wednesday are also available on the website. 12th June - Ed Douglas. BMC 'Care & Maintenance' booklet - clarification and change to text The BMC Technical Committee wishes to highlight an ad- dendum to the text of its recent publication “Care & Mainte- nance”. This clarification has become necessary due firstly to the use of differing terms within different industries to describe similar chemical processes, and secondly after consideration of further material unavailable at the time of writing. The committee would like to stress that there are no safety issues involved with this change (it is purely an issue of technical nomenclature and a small revision), and apolo- gise for any misunderstandings that this may have created. The section concerned involves pages 33 and 34 (the section on seawater corrosion), and an updated version of the text with changes highlighted is available from the BMC website or by post, fax or email on request from the BMC office – call 0870 010 4878 or mail [email protected]. Any comments or queries regarding this clarification may be passed to the Technical Committee via its secretary, Stuart Ingram ([email protected]). Troll Recall Notice Troll are recalling the following : T10 Flexfit / T12 Flexfit / T12 Fastfit. Please contact the retailer where the goods were purchased or contact Troll on 01457 878822. (See advert in High Mountain Sports May issue). Scottish Access Update The progress of the Land Reform (Scotland) Bill, which in- cludes provisions for new access laws, took a crucial step forward just before Easter. The Parliament’s Justice 2 com- Airlie Anderson in Greenland. Photo: Niall Grimes mittee published its report into the evidence it had gathered during the stage 1 phase of the Bill’s passage through Par- A quick reminder of the exhibits lined up for this special year liament. After twice taking evidence from the mountaineer in mountaineering history: and historian Alan Blackshaw, the committee came to the significant conclusion that there is no criminal law of tres- · The “Ruskin and Switzerland” exhibition - a collection of pass in Scotland. Research carried out by Alan in recent drawings and paintings by the celebrated Cumbrian painter, years has been the main force in undermining the com- art critic and philosopher. monly held view that such an offence exists in Scotland. The stage 1 report was followed on 20 March by a debate, in · “The Somervell Sketches” - The first public showing of which many MSP’s spoke in favour of greater rights for rec- paintings, pastels and sketches by the veteran of the Mallory reational access. There is, however, a long way to go with and Irvine Everest expedition of 1924, kindly loaned by the this process. Amendments will be made to the current ver- Alpine Club. sion of the Bill over the next few months, and the new law is likely to be enacted in the early part of 2003. · Ray Wood’s evocative photographic record of Ed Douglas’ In the meantime, news of the process is being carried on clean-up trip to Everest last July. the MCofS website (www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk), which has links to the relevant pages on the Scottish Parlia- · “The Mallory Collection” - the relics found by the 1999 ment website. research expedition that discovered George Mallory’s body on Everest, giving tantalising clues as to the mystery sur- rounding their expedition. The Helly Hansen National Mountaineering Exhibition website is now complete with exhibition Contact the Rheged Discovery Centre on 01768 868000 tour, timeline and tribute section, with over 80 for display dates, admission rates, and all details about the potted biographies of Britain's leading mountaineers forthcoming lecture series - discounts available for BMC members. Airlie- check Anderson out mountain-exhibition.co.uk in Greenland. Photo: Niall Grimes

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 7

32418_Summit26.p65 7 15/04/2002, 10:50 AM NEWS INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF THE MOUNTAINS 2002 EVENTS BMC / KZN MCSA South Africa experience this stunning alpine destination hassle-free, as all logistics and permits will be organised for you. The Exchanges 2002 programme is set to include a mass ascent of Lenin Peak, mountain races, skiing/boarding and parapente flights as There is still time to experience the splendour of trekking in well as trekking, biking and watersports in the beautiful some of the most amazing mountain terrain on the planet, Zaalaiskii Range with this fantastic offer from the Mountaineering Club of South Africa (Kwa-Zulu Section). From the 6-14 September Places at the festival are first come, first served, and eight fortunate individuals will trek for four days along the available to BMC individual and affiliated members for a breathtaking high level escarpment dividing SA and Lesotho staggeringly low US$399!! This includes peak and national before exploring the famous Ndedema Gorge with its park fees, but excludes transfer to Bishkek and some food magnificent rock art for another two days. costs. Application forms are available from the Kyrgyz Republic Mountaineering Club and should be returned by 1 The MCSA-KZN will provide hospitality whilst in the country, June 2002. Contact: so all you have to worry about is getting there - the BMC international committee is also able provide a £100 bursary Vladimir Komissarov +996-312-651221 or [email protected] to each of the successful applicants. Apply via post or email or Ayana Khamisova +996-312-651404 or [email protected]. to Stuart Ingram at the BMC Office with an activity CV and personal profile. The deadline for the climbing part of the National Outdoor Welcome 2002 meet has now passed, but you can still register for a chance to join the trekking party - closing date for applications is 15 July. The BMC has joined the Outdoor Industries Association (a.k.a. Go Outdoors or COLA) initiative NOW 2002. The campaign is intended to encourage people back into the A Kyrgyzstan Extravaganza! countryside in response to the impacts of FMD in 2001. At present the BMC’s intended involvement in NOW will consist The Kyrgyz Alpine Club (with the support of Kyrgyz of 20 open days at climbing walls throughout the UK with Government) will be holding a huge Mountain Festival in the twin aims of introducing newcomers to the sport and area of Lenin Peak (7134m) in the Pamirs from 1-25 August providing existing users with the skills to take their climbing this summer. This is a fantastic and rare opportunity to outdoors should they wish to do so.

Make the most of your BMC membership Order now and save on books and guidebooks

PLEASE SEND ME THE FOLLOWING BOOKS Stanage Guidebook (Available from the end of May 2002) (CODE: GCE018) CODE PUBLICATION QUANTITY COST (£) Your essential guide to over 1200 routes on the GCE018 Stanage Guidebook greatest of all gritstone edges. GCE017 On Peak Rock £15.00 MEMBER PRICE £13.00 GCE009 Wye Valley Guidebook BMC008 A Brief History of British Mountaineering On Peak Rock MTB001 Mountain Travellers’ Handbook (CODE: GCE017) SUB TOTAL Hugely popular - a comprehensive guide to all POSTAGE areas of the Peak. Reprinted for Easter 2002. £2.50 NAME ...... TOTAL £17.99 MEMBER PRICE £14.50

Wye Valley Guidebook ADDRESS ...... (2 VOLS, CODE: GCE009) Definitive limestone guide and illustrated history...... NOW ONLY £7.00 MEMBER PRICE £5.00 POSTCODE ...... MEMBERSHIP Nº ......

A Brief History of British PAYMENT OPTIONS Mountaineering (CODE: BMC008) 1. If paying by credit card please insert your card details below Card expiry date Crammed with images, this is a great introduction to mountain heritage. Issue Nº.(switch only) Valid from (if applicable) Signed Date £15.00 MEMBER PRICE £10.00

Mountain Travellers’ Handbook 2. Cheques/postal orders should be made payable to: British Mountaineering Council (CODE: MTB001) Send your completed form and payment to: Described by Trail as ‘…the launchpad for any British Mountaineering Council, FREEPOST MR9759, Manchester, M20 7AD. overseas adventure’. OR phone us on OR email us at: £13.00 MEMBER PRICE £11.50 0870 010 4878 [email protected] OR buy online at: www.thebmc.co.uk

Contact8 us today for an Information Services leaflet containing over 150 books, reports,BMC guides SUMMIT and special - ISSUE member 26prices

32418_Summit26.p65 8 15/04/2002, 10:50 AM

ACCESS NEWS

Range West will be open for climbing on Access and Conservation July 27th, as normal only those who Trust - ACT have attended one of the briefings will The BMC is asking clubs, areas and be able to climb on the Range. The BMC individuals for ideas of environmental website will advertise the times and and conservation projects which they Gloucester location closer to the time. could undertake at local crags. The BMC will submit proposals to the Ac- CRoW - next round of cess and Conservation Trust (ACT) to gain funding support for projects. If you draft maps have any ideas of work that could be The draft maps showing access land done in your area contact for the South, covering the area [email protected] around Bristol down to the south coast, but not the South West peninsula are due out for consultation in June. There Southern Sandstone will be a series of local roadshows Open Meeting where you will be able to see the maps Graham Lynch - new Access & This year's Southern Sandstone Open and be able to talk to the mapping con- Conservation Officer. Credit: Parnell. meeting will take place on May 12, sultants. Maps to look at and comment 7.30pm. The Sandstone Open Meet- on will also be available in local librar- ing is an annual event at the Junction ies and council buildings. The road New Access Officer show dates are: The BMC is pleased to welcome pub in Groombridge. Hot food is avail- able from the bar and if the weather's Graham Lynch as new Access & Con- Wokingham Town Hall servation Officer to the Manchester of- good most people climb before the meeting in the evening. The meeting is 12 July 12:30 – 19:30 fice. Graham joins the BMC from the Winchester Guild Hall Patent Office in South Wales, and will an open forum for anyone who climbs on or otherwise has an interest in 13 July 10:00 – 16:00 bring a broad scientific background and Bridport Town Hall experience of working in a government Southern Sandstone, so come along and have your say. Subjects discussed 18 July 12:30 – 19:30 agency to bear on policy, campaigns Blandford Corn Exchange and legislation issues. He started in the past have included bolts on sandstone, access to the boulders at 19 July 12:30 - 19:30 climbing as a youth in the Peak, stud- Salisbury Playhouse ied at Cambridge and Sheffield before High Rocks, repair and groundwork at the various crags and details of the 20 July 10:00 – 16:00 working in Wales, and is looking for- Marlborough Town Hall ward to getting on the grit much more Sandstone Code. If you have some- thing to say, now is the chance to get it 25 July 12:30 – 19:30 often - though he still has a few secret Bradford-on-Avon, St Margaret Hall lines on Range West to come back and off your chest. The better the attend- ance, the better it works. 26 July 12:30 – 19:30 do. Rumours that Graham is a ringer Wells, Little Theatre drafted in to provide the BMC football 27 July 10:00 – 16:00 team with a two-footed attacking force Millersdale Bridge Parking Newport IOW, The Riverside Centre might be unfounded! The BMC has been asked by the Peak 31 July 12:30 – 19:30 Park to remind the holders of licences Lyndhurst Park Hotel Snowdonia Green Key for use of Bridge 75 at Millersdale 1 Aug 12:30 – 19:30 As part of the on-going consultation that part of their licence agreement is process in Snowdonia over the Green to access the Bridge from Millersdale For more information phone 0845 Key Park and Ride scheme, the BMC car park along the Monsal Trail. Would 100 3298 or visit their website at attended a recreational users meeting other recreational users in the area www.countryside.gov.uk in February. The meeting started posi- please refrain from parking in the car tively with Peter Ogden from the Na- park for Wormhill village centre. BMC Access Focus leaflet tional Park Authority reading out the The 2002 seasonal main points of the BMC’s response to Toll road in the Peak restrictions leaflet the previous Park and Ride scheme in The plans to turn the Upper Derwent summarising the bird 1999. It seems that although they had Valley Road (beside Lady Bower Res- nesting restrictions not taken into account those points in ervoir) into a toll road are due to come for the year and an the intervening years whilst drafting the out for public consultation in the next overview of last Green Key Strategy, that they were now couple of months. There will be a three year’s access activi- willing to listen to the voices of users month consultation period as part of ties is out now and and locals alike. The decision at the the planning application. This is the first has been widely dis- users meeting was that the recreational such toll road in the country and will tributed. If you need groups would submit their own ideas set a precedent for others. Informa- a copy/copies please for positive infrastructure improve- tion about the consultation will be put contact the BMC of- ments for Northern Snowdonia that on the BMC website news. fice or email: would be environmentally sustainable [email protected]. and bring money into the local economy. The BMC’s response was Range West Briefings For the latest access info on based on comments from members This year's Range West Briefings will more than 600 crags in who answered a call on the BMC take place on the following evenings: England and Wales - check website for suggestions. Local commu- out the Regional Access 13th June Gloucester nities will also be asked for ideas. For Database (RAD) on more information, check out the Snow- 29th June Range West, Castlemartin www.thebmc.co.uk donia Green Key Page on the website. 27th July Range West, Castlemartin

10 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

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HEAVY LOAD When slogging uphill, straps biting into shoulders, many of us must wish for some kind of anti-gravity rucksack. Sadly that may take a while to appear, but the current goal of the gear manufacturers is to create packs that weigh next to nothing and are so comfortable that you’ll forget you’re wearing them. Paula Davies from UK guides you though the process of choosing the perfect pack for your next uphill struggle.

The past and the present Things have come a long way since the early canvas and metal torture devices and these days pack design has more in common with engineering than sewing. Each year the manufacturers release increasingly technical creations, aimed at improving comfort and stability to let you concen- trate on the activity rather than your juddering burden. The first adjustable back length system came onto the market in the 90s, and since then improving load-carrying comfort, stability and build quality have been the objectives of all serious manufacturers. Developments such as the Crossbow stabilisation system from Lowe Alpine and other compression systems have all improved pack stability, whist providing increasingly innovative shapes. The future is all about going lightweight, and with the con- tinued development of pack fabrics, lightweight clothing, and compact equipment, pack sizes can come right down. If you leave the kitchen sink at home it’s totally possible to hut to hut in the Dolomites with a well-packed sub 30L sack. Im- agine – waterproofs, spare base layers, sleeping bag, food, crampons, camera, and it’s smaller than your average carry on luggage. Now that’s going to bring a smile to your face as you cruise uphill. Many of the lightweight lessons have been learnt in mountain marathons where every ounce counts, and if you want to see how light you can really go, saw that toothbrush in half and have a look at www.lamm.co.uk. There is also an increased focus on end-use where design- ers are striving to improve pack performance for specific ac- tivities. This ultimately benefits the user, but it can make the decision of which pack to buy even more daunting.

Choosing a pack Manufacturers tend to group pack models into five catego- ries; backpacking and load carrying, daypacks/walking, ac- tive mountain sports, technical climbing / ski touring, and travel. Start by selecting a pack for your activity and then compare the different models available. For any pack it is essential that you try the pack on fully loaded otherwise you will be left with a false impression of performance. Either use in-store weights, or use shop items such as ropes. (Don’t forget to ask the staff first!) After cinching-in the side compression straps and stabilisation straps walk or jog around then ask yourself a few questions:

♦ Do the shoulder straps sit over your shoulders with no gaps? ♦ Does the pack feel stable on your back or does it move around? ♦ Do the straps dig in at all? ♦ Do the waist belt and sternum strap sit comfortably in the right place? ♦ Does the pack have a good ventilated back system to allow your clothing systems to breathe? ♦ Are there wicking fabrics in body - contact areas to pre

Credit: Lowe Alpine. vent perspiration patches?

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EQUIPMENT

If the answer is no to any of these questions try a different pack, and you’ll soon notice the difference. Most manufac- turers also offer packs available specifically designed to fit the female form, so don’t forget to check these out too. The shoulder straps may start from a narrower take-off point and be more shaped, the chest harnesses could be differ- ent, or waist belts might have narrower starting points and be contoured differently.

Backpacking and load carrying Approach the process of choosing a load carrying pack in much the same way as you would when buying a pair of hiking boots. It is essential to make sure a pack fits you correctly. There are a plethora of packs to choose from but don’t settle on an exact model until you have determined which ones fit, and it is definitely worth setting aside some time to shop around. When you visit a retailer, ask to speak with a properly trained or experienced member of staff, and just like choosing boots, don’t be afraid to go elsewhere if you’re not getting the service you need. If you’re unsure of which stores have received adequate training then try asking the manufacturers for their recommended stores. A well-trained member of staff will measure your back length first. You may be more used to choosing a pack by litre size but this is not the best method as an oversized and ill-fitting pack can cause considerable discomfort and even long-term back pain. Your back length will determine which pack you should be wearing; this can be defined as the measurement from the hip point (top of the hip-bone) to the 7th vertebra. Having measured your back, you should choose a pack that is either the right length from the start or can be custom- Andrew Miles trying to avoid a dunking, Sarek National ised to the correct length for you. Adjustable back systems Park, Sweden. In situations like this you'll appreciate a vary for each manufacturer but most are simple to adjust. stable pack! Credit: Miles collection. Once adjusted correctly you should never need to do so again – so make sure it fits right from the start. correct load distribution. If the pack fits correctly there should Now consider exactly what you will be using the pack for. be no discomfort or movement. Check the following: Often the choice can be defined by comfort versus weight. A model designed for load carrying comfort over extended pe- ♦Is the hip belt is positioned correctly? Loosen the riods of time may be heavier than other models designed for shoulder straps, this should make little or no difference. a more technical purpose. If weight is the overriding issue ♦Do the shoulder straps sit flush on your shoulders with consider models which use lighter fabrics and weight-saving no gap in between? simplified backsystems. Always ask a knowledgeable mem- ♦ Top tensioners should be at an angle no greater than 30 ber of staff if you are unsure, or have a good peruse of the degrees. manufacturers guidelines. Now is a good time to think about: ♦ Check the compression straps are tight.

♦ How much you can afford ♦ Do you need maximum load carrying comfort or is weight PACK COMFORT the overriding issue? ♦ Will you be carrying the pack fully loaded all or most of the time, or will you want a pack that compacts down Pack comfort is all about fit and stability as well as having when half empty? enough padding in the right areas. ♦ Will you be wearing a helmet with the pack and therefore need to consider headroom? Fit: Many good backpacking and load carrying packs have ♦ Do you need side pockets? If so would it be useful to be adjustable back systems. When correctly fitted there’s no able to compress them down when not in use? real reason for them to be uncomfortable. ♦ Do you want a hydration system facility built in? ♦ Would it be useful to have an internal divider for sepa Stability: This is all about compressing the pack and stabil- rating wet gear? ising the load without hindering body movement. For exam- ♦ What other features have you seen that would be worth ple Lowe Alpine’s answer is the Crossbow system. This trans- spending a little more to have? fers load from the pack to the waist belt, redirecting the load onto your hips using a hoop encircling the pack body When you have chosen a suitable model, the next thing to and linked to the waist belt. Provided that tension is main- do is load the pack up. Take time to load the pack correctly tained this will stabilise the pack and transfer a significant leaving no gaps, especially at the base and in line with your percentage of the load to the waist belt. back. It’s a myth that you should always load a pack with the heaviest items at the top, on technical ground it’s more Comfort: Modern materials used in the construction of the important to stay balanced, which is best achieved by load- waist belts and shoulder harnesses should provide adequate ing the heavy items low down and close to your back. Once padding with a shaped construction for comfort. A combina- loaded try the pack on, first secure the pack tightly with the tion of stiffer closed-cell foam laminated to softer open-cell hip belt and then cinch in the shoulder straps. Fine tune the foam provides shape and firm support while ensuring body- fit using top tensioners and compression straps to ensure contact comfort.

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EQUIPMENT PACK CARE

Daypacks for walking Your pack will last many years with or without help or hin- A daypack purchase can be quite straightforward, but there drance from you. But if you follow these few simple guide- are still a few things to watch out for. Choose one with a lines you’ll extend its active life even further: padded hip belt and shoulder straps for comfort, together with a well ventilated back system to prevent overheating Avoid using detergents and washing machines. You risk and assist the clothing breathability. If you use walking poles damaging the waterproof coating applied to the pack fabric. look for a daypack with side compression straps and wand Allow mud and dirt to dry then brush clean. Be gentle, use a pockets. These compression straps also make the pack soft bristled brush. more versatile as you can crank them down when the sack Remove oil and other stains using a natural soap cleaner is less full giving greater stability. Then finally decide whether and a bit of restrained scrubbing. Solvents and sea salt are you would prefer side pockets or a slimmer profile pack - best removed by rinsing in cold water. pockets are ideal for walking, but can impede movement or Always cinch down all the straps and tie the waist belt back snag when climbing. around the pack body when checking in as airline baggage. A sack with one half of the waist belt missing is not a great Active mountain sports way to start a trip. These packs are designed for body hugging stability during Chemicals in some insect repellents break down plastics. If fast movement over difficult terrain. Their design concepts you’ve ever inadvertently sprayed your shades or wristwatch have been leading the way in lightweight pack innovation. then you’ll know what can happen. Take extra care when Backsystem ventilation and wicking materials should be situ- storing cans of repellent inside your pack, if not kept upright ated in all body contact areas to keep you dry and comfort- they can leak damaging the pack fabric itself. able, and the priority when mountain running or cross-coun- try skiing is to clamp the load tight against your body in the approaches), slid behind the side compression straps where region of least movement. Almost always this will be the they are accessible and keep the pack’s centre of gravity closer lower back area, which explains the contour shaping of many to your back (on rock) or in holsters or lower compression straps models. To prevent bounce and sway with part loads, re- (on mixed ground) Traditionally crampons are strapped to the member to cinch in the compression straps and adjust the lid, but this makes the pack top-heavy, so many packs now waist and/or chest straps for a snug fit. Other nifty features have a purpose-made crampon pocket on the front. are non-jangle zip pulls, reflective tape, built-in hydration Ski storage: Many packs incorporate ski fittings. Fit skis facilities and bottle holsters, and quick access pockets on with tips uppermost and bindings clamped between the two the waist belt for energy bars or a compass. sets of compression straps. Fit a ski clip around the tips to pull them into a stable ‘A’ shape. Technical climbing packs Load compression: The pack load will be relatively small on technical climbing sections, when ropes and hardware are in Weight is often the crucial factor with more technical packs use. So consider the design of compression straps to stabilize so always look out for the new lightweight materials. Decide the pack and prevent those sudden, disconcerting load shifts. exactly which features will benefit you the most and choose Max Headroom : You may be wearing the pack whilst using your pack accordingly. Some features may add weight but a helmet and head torch, check for sufficient headroom. others are removable such as gear loops, shovel pockets or waist belts. A few key features to look out for are: storage: There are many methods of stowing ice Travel packs tools. The most common are using a rear tool shield (glacial Travel packs can be great for general use, but remember to check back length here too, especially if you are plan- ning to carry the pack over long periods of time. Some PACK RELIABILITY feature adjustable back systems, and others have a zip away harness for ease of handling and discretion. Look for zip-around “panel opening” systems to allow easy access, Reliability comes from build quality. Most manufacturers will and internal load organisation features such as compres- give a lifetime guarantee against defects in materials or the sion straps and mesh pockets. A padded shoulder strap will manufacturing process but ultimately you need to be con- give comfortable carrying at the airport, and a removable vinced that the pack won’t fail during use. Take a look at the daypack is always a bonus. back system first, after all this is the part you rely on most. Paula Davies is Look for tightly woven fabrics. These use more threads the Marketing than the cheaper open weaves giving better abrasive resist- Manager for Lowe ance, strength and protection. Alpine UK. Visit Make sure the pack has stitched construction throughout - www.lowealpine.com stitching is more reliable than rivets. or phone their A well made pack will feature triple sewn seems. Some Helpdesk on 01539 manufactures use a 3-ply bonded thread that is rot resist- 740840 for a list of ant, strong and long lasting. Major seams are stitched twice, expert pack fitting capped with fabric tape and stitched a third time. Stress stores, and general points are strengthened with five lines of stitching. help on Lowe Alpine On the waist belts check for bi-laminate foams (2 types of packs. foam bonded together giving more rigidity on the outside and softer comfort on the inside). These are virtually inde- (LEFT) Trekking in the structible. Peneda-Geres mountains, Large-capacity packs should feature a double layer of Portugal. Those lovely legs fabric in the base, to soak up long-term wear and tear. belong to Paul Deegan, A combination of tougher fabrics in high abrasion areas author of The Mountain and lighter fabrics in the low wear areas will saves on weight Traveller's Handbook, whilst not compromising durability. recently published by the Haul loops make it simple to haul or pick up the pack, BMC. Credit: Andy Miles. whilst reducing the loads on other fixtures. 16 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

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PULLING POWER

here are some things you really should do, but just never seem to Tmanage. Going to the Dentist is one, learning more about ropework is another. Well, that may be OK for Stanage on sunny Sunday, but if you’re heading off to Gogarth or the Alps don’t be a fumbler with toothache – get it sorted before you go. As your mother always said - you’ll feel better for it afterwards. Tim Neill from Plas y Brenin shares some of his favourite tricks.

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Prusiks One common solution is to use a French prusik coming off Carrying a couple of prusik loops about your person is a your leg loop. Whilst this cannot claim to be 100% failsafe, very smart idea. These clever little things have a multitude it comes pretty close if well set up. But remember, if you’re of uses, from protecting abseils, ascending ropes, and con- stopping for anything beyond unraveling a quick tangle, do structing hoists, to even extending runners. And that’s not back it up by wrapping the slack rope around your leg. Note including their other invaluable contributions to the climbing that a French Prusik is used, not the simple Prusik - the community; fixing hammocks, adjusting slack lines, tying up French Prusik is a good back up because it re- sleeping mats, you name it, a prusik’s probably stepped in leases under load, a normal prusik will not, something you and done it somewhere. will discover when you get firmly stuck! See diagram right for But what is a “prusik loop”? As the name suggests, it’s a how to set up this system. Some people prefer to fix the loop of cord, made of supple 5 or 6mm rope, approximately prussic above their belay plate, but this can give the added 1.5m long with the ends tied by a tight double fisherman’s danger of the knot ending up out of reach above your head. knot. With the cord costing less than a pint, there really is There are however still a few abseils that might be better no excuse not to own a pair. And whilst we’re on that note, without a prussik, these include low angle descents where do be aware that like a rope these are degradable items, so the extra friction caused makes its use impractical, a de- don’t be delay – replace them instantly if in any doubt about scent on icy or very wet ropes, or when the quality of the the amount of wear and tear they’ve suffered. is a little more subjective (i.e. snow / ice anchors or threaded rabbit holes on the Lleyn Peninsular) and a very Protecting abseils smooth ride is required. As ever the key is to exercise judg- Whilst protecting an abseil at a single crag can often ment and caution. seem irrelevant, as soon as things get bigger it is definitely worth considering. On longer descents the journey down the Going back up rope may be a bit of an uncertainty. Tangles could need Ascending a rope is a lot more strenuous than abseiling, but sorting out, the ends of the rope might not reach the deck, in some situations is the only way out - you may have ab- you could descend the wrong way, or the combination of a seiled down the wrong line, fallen off and be hanging in steep abseil, thin rope, and heavy sack might be a potential space, or perhaps be stuck down a . Route-set- worry. In all of these situations having some form of auto- ters, photographers and big-wallers carry jumars specially matic brake on the rope will make your life a lot easier. designed to make ascending a rope easier, but in most Unexpected stone fall, perhaps dislodged by your own ab climbing situations, prusiks will be good enough, albeit rope, or another incident could also cause you to inadvert- harder work. Whilst the French Prusik is a good abseiling ently let go of with your brake hand with potentially disas- back up because it releases under load this also means it’s trous consequences. Of course there’s still nothing to pre- less suited to ascending since it’ll slide if you grab and pull vent you just launching off and hoping for the best, but directly on it by mistake. For this job a Klemheist is better, most people stop doing that after their first near miss! as this knot locks up tight when loaded but can easily be “thumbed” loose when unweighted.

KLEMHEIST & FRENCH PRUSIK BACKING UP AN ABSEIL (LEFT) Catherine Barton wishing this wasn't the first time she'd ever had to ascend Credit: Alex Messenger. Arrow Spire tyrolean, Yosemite. a rope - on the Lost

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 1 9

32418_Summit26.p65 19 15/04/2002, 10:54 AM Cruising down Struggling up Some abs are straight forward, a single rope leads straight Pop a French prussik on the rope above you, and clip a down to the deck. Others involve multiple change-overs and short foot sling into it. Ideally use screwgates throughout uncertain terrain. Make life easier for yourself by sticking to the system, although in an unexpected situation this may a smooth system, this is especially vital when tired or if it’s not always be possible. getting dark. Be logical and ordered as there are many pit- falls, and if in doubt, check and check again. Add a Klemheist to the rope just above the French 1prussic and add a harness loop. As a rough guide the Check if the anchor(s) are OK. If so, and there’s more prussic knot should be at about forehead level when you’re 1than one equalize to a single independent loop. Don’t hanging from the prussic. be afraid to leave some tat, or krabs if required. If you consider an anchor suspect look at the options of either Step into the foot sling and clip your harness to the replacing it or tweaking it. You could back it up using some 2Klemheist, then slide it as far up the rope as you can of your gear - remember to let all the load fall on the existing anchors, but with the back up system sufficiently tight that it Sit on it carefully checking that it grips and that you’re is not shock loaded should the anchor fail. Send the heavier 3not cross-loading the karabiner. member of the party down the rope first, whilst the second keeps an eye on the system, then either remove the back Now push up the foot loop, lean back, get your foot up, or if there is cause for worry, sacrifice some gear. Don’t 4into the sling and make a big rock-over move to send be a lemming, and automatically launch off into space from you a long way up the rope each time. As you go, unweight any old collection of tat. Get into the habit of casting a and “thumb” the Klemheist attached to your harness and critical eye over anything you’re about to trust with your life, slide it up. and remind yourself that gear is easy to replace, you are not. As height is gained, paranoia will set in that you’re only 5attached to the rope by a couple of bits of cord. Put Clip yourself to the anchor with a “cowstail”. This is a your mind at rest and back yourself up by connecting the 2sling “lark’s footed” to your harness’s tie in point per- rope below you to your harness every now and again. Either haps knotted to adjust it’s length, and clipped into the be- repeatedly tie and untie a figure of eight, or use a clove lay. hitch that can be rolled up the rope as you ascend.

Clip the rope(s) to the anchor, to stop you letting go There is another back up option if you’re trying to re 3accidentally! If using two ropes, join with a suitable knot. 6gain the rock after a long fall into space on double ropes. There are a few options here, and it really depends on per- Get your partner to lock off one rope, and ascend that, sonal preference. An overhand knot is widely used, this is whilst he/she belays you on the other. less likely to snag than others, but remember to leave gen- erous tails (0.5m) either side of the knot. If this slimline Don’t let your first prusiking experience be on Dream of number upsets you, or if the ropes are of different thick- White Horses! Ascending ropes is hard enough at the nesses or iced then choose a double Fisherman’s, or a reef best of times - find somewhere safe to practice and knot followed by a double Fisherman’s. discover the exact lengths of slings and prusik loops that suit you. Thread the ropes through the anchor, knotting the ends 4separately, so that they can still spin and unkink but How to lock off a rope you won’t fly off the ends by mistake. We’re mentioned “locking off a rope”, but how is this done? There are a few options here. You can just hang onto it, but Connect your belay plate and prusik. If using double this soon loses it’s appeal as your grip starts to fade. Or you 5ropes the prussik knot goes around both ropes with per- could tie a big overhand knot into the spare rope below the haps one less turn than used on a single rope. which will then butt up against it. Effective and definitely hands free but very hard to undo afterwards, es- Check everything once again then unclip your cowstail pecially if there’s still weight on the rope. The connois- 6and go. If it’s going to be a long abseil, or the ropes are seurs method is to tie the slack rope around the back bar of wet consider leaving behind a krab for a slicker pull through the screwgate, and tie the loop created around the afterwards. rest of the rope with overhand knots. This is easy to release whilst under load with little or no rope slippage when tying or Don’t just charge down, look out for your next anchor. If untieing. If using double ropes, it is simple to tie off one, 7it’s out to one side re-direct the ropes with runners (the and still belay with the other. second will take these out) rather than penduluming and sawing the ropes. This technique is also used to get down overhanging terrain that would otherwise leave you hanging Finding out more in space. The use of prusiks and locking off a belay plate are two of the basic starting points of nearly all the more complicated Clip in to your next anchor, and give the ropes a test “improvised help” systems. Whilst the use of full-blown hoist 8pull. If it’s not working the second can readjust them. systems is very rare, the ability to use the techniques de- For efficiency undo the tail knot and thread the pulling rope scribed here should be common knowledge to any compe- into the anchor whilst the second is rapping down to you. tent team. But remember that practising for an hour is worth more than reading a 1000 books, so get some experience Pull them smoothly with a good hefty tug at the end so in at a friendly venue before testing your skills for real – and 9it clears the crag. Watch out for any debris that might if in any doubt, consider attending a course. come down at this stage. Repeat, whilst keeping your fin- gers crossed and thinking nice thoughts, until you are safe Contact Plas y Brenin on 01690 720 214 or visit on the ground with all your ropes. www.pyb.co.uk for full details of all their courses.

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SKILLS FOREIGN LANGUAGE

The Alps. Breathtaking. Adventure waiting on a plate just an Easyjet hop away. But also disturbingly confusing for the first time visitor. So if you don’t know the difference between E111 and the Euro, and think that moving together sounds a bit risqué then let Stuart Ingram educate you. It may be a foreign language, but here’s the dictionary.

is for AMS. Acute Mountain Sick expected bivvies – a common feature ting to the route and be thoroughly con- Aness, also known as Altitude Sick- in bar tales but miserable in reality – fident on your rope work and naviga- ness. One of the major differences plan well to avoid these. tional skills before venturing upwards. between climbing in the UK and the Alps is the altitude. Even though al- is for Crowds. Yes, it’s official - the is for Equipment. Before extracting most everyone can climb at European CAlps can be crowded! If you’re Eyour credit card and leaping into a altitudes with little difficulty apart from used to doing your own thing then some shop, take a look at what you already mild breathlessness, laboured breath- venues in the more popular areas can have, it may be enough. Bear in mind ing uphill or a slight headache, it makes come as a shock. Crowded routes that temperature fluctuations are huge, sense to be prepared. Build up experi- means overtaking parties (or being from scorching heat on a sunny glacier ence and acclimatise well before tack- overtaken), an increased risk of to teeth chattering gullies, so plan your ling a big objective such as Mt Blanc - stonefall, and a generally hectic expe- clothing accordingly. You’ll certainly be patient - and by the third peak or rience, so minimise the impact on your- need basics including a rope, ice so you’ll be more than ready for the self and the environment by choosing axe(s), suitable boots and a compat- higher routes and able to concentrate a quieter venue and avoiding the very ible pair of crampons (for more infor- on the ascent rather than your splitting popular routes. If overtaking or being mation on boots and crampons see headache. See the BMC website for overtaken be polite but firm – don’t past issues of Summit or pop into your full details on AMS. delay a faster party unnecessarily or local retailer). Of course no amount of allow this to happen to you - speed is gear is any good if you don’t know how is for Bivvis. Wild camping is for of the essence in safe Alpine climbing! to use it – consider it essential to get Bbidden throughout most of the some practice in, ideally on an Alpine Alps, but bivvies are usually permitted is for Descent. A route is only half skills course. “from sunset to sunrise” in the moun- Dcompleted when you reach the tains, and are a good option to escape top, and you need to pace yourself with is for Food (and water). On all as- the crowds or save money, at the cost this is mind. A large proportion of acci- Fcents don’t neglect your food and of the extra equipment needed. Avoid dents occur in descent due to exhaus- hydration requirements. Food should close proximity to huts though, as the tion and lack of concentration. The be palatable, light and quick to eat, guardian will have little time for non- process of descent, be it abseiling or but it is hydration that can be the real paying customers cluttering up his pa- down climbing, is a complex activity and key to success. High temperatures and tio or using his toilets! En route bivvies requires as much attention as the ac- altitude dehydration are almost guar- are a common feature of alpine routes, tual ascent, if not more. Speed will al- anteed, so make sure you drink plenty but it’s best to acquire some experi- ways come from efficiency and experi- of water – you might need up to 5 or 6 ence before biting off these bigger chal- ence, not short cuts, so remember to litres per day if working hard. Carry a lenges, and of course there are the un- research the descent before commit- decent size water bottle, or hydration (TOP) Rocky summit, Aiguille Rouges, (Chamonix Valley) looking across towards the Midi. Credit: Andy Miles. 22 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

32418_Summit26.p65 22 16/04/2002, 4:14 PM bag and use it, and remember that melting snow/ice for water takes ages, and drinks your stove’s fuel supply.

is for Guidebooks. Wherever you Ggo, there will be a guidebook to the area - the seminal Alpine Club guides are well established, and cover a good range of the classic snow/ice and mixed routes, but for pure rock routes a topo guide is often clearer. Usually the guides will indicate how long the route should take (Guidebook Time), and it is important to remember that this is an average time for an av- eragely competent party. Initially pick shorter routes with low times, until you get a feel for your speed on the hill, and with practice and efficiency you should soon be moving at a good rate on the more demanding outings.

is for Huts. Alpine huts get incred- Hibly busy, so find out when they are open (usually late June – early September) and get your booking in early, preferably directly with the hut guardian. The local tourist info usually has the numbers. Average cost will be £30-£40 for a night's food and lodg- ing, but this can be reduced by using the BMC Reciprocal Rights Scheme – further details from the office.

is for Insurance. This is something Iyou must not do without in the Alps. Unlike in the UK, mountain search and rescue is not always free of charge and neither is hospital treatment and re- patriation. A form E111 does not give cover for any remotely dangerous ac- tivity, and if you are uninsured and have an accident it could easily cost you £20,000 or more, so be pre- pared! The BMC offers a comprehen- to do – many good manuals (including tain flat sections of glacier or ridge, or sive range of insurance policies to cover the BMC Knots publication) and easy rock scrambling which can be ne- every eventuality – check the website courses can provide the necessaries. gotiated in this way, saving time for the or contact the office for details. harder sections to be climbed as nor- is for Lightweight. Not only equip mal. Again it is wise to take some in- is for Judgement. This is that ephem Lment, but also in style – do you re- struction in this area before using it in Jeral quality that those old “moun- ally need 2 pans for the stove? Choos- anger, and to start with routes that are tain men” have – some blend of knowl- ing your gear carefully (and yes, per- well within your ability before pushing edge, intuition and gut feeling that tells haps spending the extra buck on qual- the boat out. Learning how to move them when to turn back, when a par- ity lightweight gear rather than making together safely and efficiently will prob- ticular slope will avalanche or why you do) and then deciding what you need ably improve your alpine climbing more really should try a different route. Call even more carefully is a vital Alpine skill. than anything else. it bad karma, good vibes sixth sense, Moving light and fast can help reduce whatever – it only comes with experi- the risk of objective dangers, and is is for North Face. Home to many ence and being out there. So, if you definitely more enjoyable. So think Nof the ultra-classics of the Alps, ever have a nagging feeling that some- again before staggering off with a pack the North Faces are the traditional thing is wrong when you’re out adven- the size of a refrigerator. proving ground for the up and coming turing, consider listening to what it’s Alpinist. They are cold, steep and for- telling you… is for Moving together. Not some bidding places that should only be tack- Mthing your mother warned you led after a thorough apprenticeship in is for Knots. A good knowledge of about, but an essential technique for more friendly surroundings. Routes to Kknots (and ropework) and how to “making time”. The members of a party aspire to/fear can be found on the tie and use them quickly and efficiently (2 upwards) are connected via short Droites, the Grande Jorasses and of is a cornerstone of safe and enjoyable lengths of the rope (20-40ft depend- course the mother of all North Faces – alpine climbing. If you are already fa- ing on terrain) and move together the Eiger. miliar with the knots used for rock- unbelayed over easier ground where a climbing, there isn’t too much learning slip or fall is unlikely. Most routes con- (TOP) Petit Dru, Chamonix in evening light. Credit: Andy Miles.

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is for Objective Danger. Objective Odanger can be defined as those risks that you can’t actually remove, only lessen your to and the Alps are full of them. Icefall, avalanche, rockfall, storms, , even other climbers can pose threats that do not manifest themselves until they are upon you. Fortunately, common sense can significantly reduce many of the risks – wear a helmet, be avalanche aware, don’t linger under looming ice- cliffs, check the weather!! Again, ex- perience of these dangers will increase your ability to deal with them – see Judgement.

is for Planning. The climb begins P well before the climb, as the say- ing goes and careful preparation will minimise your chances of being caught is for Weather. The weather in save you a world of pain on the hill. out (what we’re really getting at here is W the Alps can be by turns hotter, Make sure your gear is in good working another “A”, Avalanche awareness. colder, wetter, calmer, more benign or order, practise your skills, and research Several good publications exist – check infinitely more terrifying than in the UK. your route. Know your partner’s (and out “Chance in a Million” (SMT) or Fortunately most of the Alps are served your own) skills and weaknesses. “Avalanche Safety” (Baton Wickes) – by a detailed forecasting service, but Check the local knowledge – is your read one and you’ll live to build snow- learn some of the basic signs of ap- route “in nick”? Is the forecast good? men another day! proaching bad weather for yourself. Don’t wait until you’re on the route to The forecast is an essential guide, but find out… is for Telepheriques (and mountain (as we all know) not always 100% cor- Trailways). Unlike the UK, some parts rect! is for quote."Climb if you will, but of the Alps are well serviced by Qremember that courage and ‘phriques (cable-cars) and mountain is for Xenophobia. Don’t add to it! strength are naught without prudence, railways, making the higher parts of the XThere have always been conflicts and that a momentary negligence may mountains readily accessible. Saving and competition between different na- destroy the happiness of a Lifetime. energy and time (if not money – return tions in the Alps. Whether it’s British Do nothing in haste; look well to each trips are about £30!) can be a bonus alpinists “stealing” a route from under step; and from the beginning think what so don’t be afraid to take advantage. the noses of the French, or the Italian/ may be the end" - Edward Whymper French rivalry over some of the routes after the Matterhorn tragedy in 1861. is for UV light. It might give you a in the Mt. Blanc range, it isn’t pretty. It remains sound advice to this day. Unice tan to show off, but at the Remember, the mountains are there same time it’s damaging both your for everyone – always be polite and is for rise’n’shine!. The “Alpine body and your gear. It’s vital to protect courteous, even if you are not being R start” is a concept viewed with hor- exposed skin when above the snowline treated that way yourself. ror by most, and a masochistic glee by or on glacial terrain. Your personal some, but it’s an essential part of Al- climbing equipment is also degraded is for Yellow Snow. Don’t eat it!! pine climbing. In order to complete cer- over time with exposure to UV and YSeriously though, this kind of pollu- tain sections of most routes before (a) should be checked regularly for signs tion is an increasing problem in the the midday sun turns them to 3ft deep of damage (be especially wary of fixed Alps, and constitutes a serious health slush, (b) the (likely) afternoon storms abseil slings – if in doubt, back it up!). hazard in the more popular camping/ and (c) the last ‘phrique down, a sick- The BMC “Care & Maintenance” book- bivvy sites. When you have to go, do it eningly early start is often necessary. let offers a wealth of useful advice for considerately and at a good distance Don’t be surprised to find yourself gear- monitoring your gear. from water sources and other climb- ing up at 2 or 3am for the longer routes! ers. See the BMC leaflet “Tread Lightly” (This also helps you get ahead of other is for Vagabond. The hedonistic for further advice in this area. parties on popular routes – safer, Vclub of hardcore British alpinists quicker and more pleasant.) from the 60’s, based in Leysin, Swit- is for....Zermatt – the home of the zerland. Tales of punishing training Zmost famous Alpine peak of all, the is for Snow. The Eskimos have over schedules, extreme and audacious as- Matterhorn (and its Zmutt ridge!), and S 30 words for it and they’re not cents and even more extreme partying Zillertal – a beautiful mountain sports wrong – there are many different kinds abound, and involve such figures as destination high in the Austrian Alps. of the white stuff, and not all of it Dougal Haston, Allan Rankin, Guy Niethardt and Chick Scott. Thankfully, friendly. By knowing the different types, (TOP) The Refuge de Beysallance on things are (usually) a bit more chilled their adhesive properties and how they the Vignemale, Pyrenees. these days! lay on mountain topography, you can Credit: John Eales.

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ON PEAK ROCK And how it’s going to change my life. By Niall Grimes

ike most people, given any choice, I’ll take the easy one. Show me a bed and I’ll lie in it. LThat’s why I go to Stanage, Burbage, Gogarth, the Llanberis Pass, and when I’m feeling adventurous, maybe Yorkshire grit; like most people. Adventure is fine, but these days, with the six kids, the rock band, my small business, my TV cookery programme and my work for the European parliament, I’ve really not got the time to travel any more to seek out these adventures.

Which is why I was most surprised to find, while working on the new reprint of On Peak Rock, that all this adventure is actually on my doorstep! Imagine my surprise to find out that I could get myself highly excited and embrace the spirit of adventure within twenty miles of my front door - meta- phorically speaking, (and to the wag who stole my front door – that’s not funny); that there’s no need to jump in the car and travel hundreds of miles to Scotland, the South- West or Pembroke just to experience all that’s obscure about climbing. No. With On Peak Rock in my hands, and my pet- rol tank almost empty (or a little bit full, depending on whether you’re an optimist or a pessimist), I can go and have a weird time in my very own Peak District.

So, for 2002, I have made myself a little ticklist of On Peak Rock must-do adventure routes. I hope they don’t go smoothly.

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32418_Summit26.p65 26 15/04/2002, 11:01 AM Chee Tor Girdle - VS 4b, 4b, 5a, 4c Chee Tor An old photo of Joe Brown, degged out in army surplus and sporting his trademark woollen balaclava is burned in my memory. He is sailing across a long horizontal break, steep and undercut. It is winter. Bare trees fade off into the back- ground, and Joe is linked to the photographer by a dark rope festooned of a few sling runners in the break. The Master at work. This photo has inspired me to go and climb many ‘easier’ routes in bad weather, for the challenge and uncertainty they give, but I have never got round to doing Neil Gresham on Ejector Seat 7c+, Mallorca. Photo: Mike Robertson this one in particular. Hopefully, some wet day, preferably in a snowstorm, carrying a small sack containing a flask, and of course, wearing a woolly balaclava, I will find myself fight- ing with Chee Tor Girdle. High Tor Gully - VD High Tor The first limestone route in the Peak, and the subject of toe fierce competition between Sheffield’s first cragrat, JW Puttrell, and Dr Baker. “Dr EA Baker was twice repulsed from the bottom and once when trying to descend. When Puttrell’s curling ‘fine lead and the merits of the climb’ were praised, Baker attacked, condemning it as a ‘huge garbage pit’. Ice axes and crampons may be found useful if the mixed rock and soil pitch is in bad condition.” Despite this, I still want to climb it, inspired as much by the described horror as by an account by one friend and successful ascensionist, who adventures relayed tales of beautiful hanging gardens, tropical flowers in full glory and fabulous birds nesting in cracks and ledges, and an aroma wafting down the gully of love’s first bloom. in Easter Island - E1 5b slippers Ilam Rock Once when down in Dovedale, heading up to do some routes on the Watchblock, we happened upon a crowd gathered by the lazy summer river. Crowds were watching a climber battling with the overhanging wall of a shattered white spire, obviously on big holds, but with big pump. Climber goes for it, higher above runners, when with a scream, climber plum- mets off. During the fifteen foot fall, crowd go death silent. A fabulous spectacle. Climber roars with spent emotion, and signals the all clear: the crowd, mainly grannies and small children, erupt in pleasure. After a rest, this PT Barnum of the vertical regroups and fights on, this time successfully

to the summit, and cheers. The atmosphere is electric. We Miura >>> carry on, and I quietly, and with a sense of anticlimax, climb an E5. Damn that showman. Some sunny summer Sunday I’m going to take that fall off Ilam Rock.

Sirplum - E1 5b Katana >>> Plum Buttress Surviving the winter. Someone at work got me into night climbing, a fine antidote to the athletic sterility of the climb-

ing wall. This led to a development, wet snowy night climb- Mirage >>> ing, whereupon we found ourselves halfway up Kilnsey with one underlengthed 9mm rope and eight con- templating Main Overhang by the intermittent light of a faulty headtorch. I shit a brick and the endless hood of dark wet rock disappeared off into the wintry distance. We there and then scrapped wet snowy night climbing. He had lured me there with tales of his night ascent of Sirplum, one of the most spectacular routes in the Peak, making it sound so exciting that I made a mental note to fix my headtorch. Mirage >>> This shoe marked a giant leap forward in rock shoe technology where many have followed. Used by the best – unique construction for the ‘elite’. Katana >>> New for 2002, built on a modified Miura last with leather / lorica combo upper and super refined horseshoe last the Katana performs on all high end projects. Miura >>> Like its 380 horsepower, 170mph Lamborghini namesake the Miura is a high performance machine for discriminating climbers. www.bigstone.co.uk

(LEFT) Matt Ekins on the Vice, Stanage. Credit: Alex Ekins BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 2 7 Crags >>> Bouldering >>> Mountain >>>

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Cave Crack - HVS 5a Reticent Mass Murderer - E5 6b Laddow Rocks Cratcliffe Tor One of the most historically important routes in the Peak, a One step on from ticking every route of a grade at a crag is last great problem. Ivar Berg bivvied in a cave below the to tick the entire crag. And here’s where select guides come route in 1916. There is a photo of them asleep, still dressed in to their own. Whatever crag you might go to, however in boots and blazers, heads propped on boulders, sur- small or slabby, it is a cert that someone will have sometime rounded by ropes and pans, careful as a still life. In the have added a crap but desperate route, some E3 6c or morning Berg rose, stretched, and climbed the route solo. something, protected by a peg that is now missing. You can He then takes off his blazer and solos a new E1. In the bet on that. On Peak Rock, on the other hand, gives you a summertime I am going to meet Andy up there, who will chance to tick every route on that crag, because it only have come over from Liverpool. High over the moors we will includes the good ones. Isn’t that clever. Cratcliffe Tor is a sleep on the same boulders, get up in the morning and solo thing. It’s a brilliant crag, really steep and made of fabulous a HVS and E1, and then get a brew on. grit, set in that soothing green landscape, cows and crows, hedges and rabbits. Flicking through the chapter on this Independence Day - E5 6a crag, I see I have done all the routes apart from one – Reticent Mass Murderer. I have tried it once, on a day when Eldon Hole jammaster Chris Plant ascended it, then without stopping, Check this out: “for the really serious, Independence Day, climbed back down to remove his gear. I didn’t do so well. E5 6a, (C) (for clean) 36m, provides something excep- But I will go over there some summer Sunday, and some- tional. It really is a hole in the ground, (Eldon Hole). Abseil how, I am going to summon the strength to tick Cratcliffe. part way down this bottomless pit to a three belay. It is a fine example of a sporting sport climb (someone has Little-by-Little - S 3c pinched the bolts) so be warned.” Who in their right mind could resist such weirdness? Harborough Rocks I saw a slideshow once, a very strange one. An artist called The Vice - HVS 5b Greg Lucas, who had some background in climbing, would photograph himself each day doing something else. Amid Stanage black and whites of him with Eccles cakes in his eyes, and I like round figures. 0 is my favourite and most round of inserting himself into a crack on a golf course, or him with round figure, but 30 isn’t bad either. Which is exactly how an asteroid, was one of him performing a manoeuvre on a many HVS’s there are in On Peak Rock for Stanage. I’ve limestone pinnacle. Holding onto a jug at the top with one never been in to ‘ticking’ days; I like the idea of them, but hand, his lower hand braced on the rock below it, he had they always seem like hard work. But here’s a good ticking levered his body away from the rock at ninety degrees, an day that seems like you could still get a lie in on Saturday, amazing example of athletic prowess, the like of which I had and be in the pub at six o’clock. Doing all the Stanage not witnessed before. He was also completely nude, and HVS’s in OPR would take in lots of what are arguably the his bits dangled earthwards shamelessly. “This one” he said finest routes on grit. There’s Right Unconquerable, of course, “is entitled ‘I’m often up here, but not in this position.’” He almost boringly brilliant, but what about these? Queersville, showed another, similar one: “I’m often in this position, but which I am always relieved to see never gets three stars. not up here.” The image remained fixed in my mind, for It’s too good for that. The Wobbler, E4 territory with VS some reason, never knowing where it was. Then, one fine holds. Fina, even thinking of its technicality now makes me winter’s evening, flicking through OPR, what do I see, but smile. Tower Face, with its snappy flake making it, for me, Greg’s needle. Imagine. I had thought it was in Spain. the most dangerous route on grit. Working from right to left, Harborough Rocks. Well, I am certainly off there come the obviously, the last route to do is The Vice. What a stroke of good weather, and I’m going to have a go myself. luck. By the end of the day, I should be warmed up enough to give it a good go, and as I down my pint with hands an So what's your list? inch thick in blood and scabs, I will know that I won’t forget If you fancy joining Niall on that day’s ticking. his life changing quest, then where better to start The Thorn - HVS 4b,5a than with the reprint of On Peak Rock. Clutching this Beeston Tor reassuring volume, a whole The bad thing about On Peak Rock, is that it shows how summer of both classic many crags I have never ever visited. And I’m not talking and esoteric entertain- about silly stupid crags like Horseshow Quarry, or the truly ment is guaranteed. This esoteric venues of Pike Pool Pinnacle (page 227) or Shy edition features all new Anne Pinnacle, Bareholm Crag (page 271, and a stunning colour photos, and of insight into the level of research that has gone into this course an updated history. book). No. Every time I pull it open it always falls on a page But don't worry, there's with some awesome crag like Wimberry, Castle Naze or nowt taken out, so it's just Beeston Tor. Beeston Tor is a crag I have always wanted to as satisfying as before. go to some fine sunny winter’s day, although the draw of Available now from all bouldering on grit always seems too strong on days like reputable sellers of books these. But 2002 will be the year. And the Thorn is the route or direct from the BMC for I most want to do there, having seen photos years ago as a the meagre price of 10 beginner, and marvelling that something as steep as that pints (£17.99), or just might one day be within my grasp. And it still might. £14.50 to members. SNOW + ROCK :: OUTSIDE :: MOUNTAIN SHACK :: COTSWOLD

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ACCESS

What have 1400 routes and 8 pairs of Ring Ouzels got in common? Answer: Stanage - and if you don’t know what a Ring Ouzel is, go to the bottom of the class. What has been described as a World Heritage Site for climbing and bouldering and is a SSSI and SPA for its moorland assemblage? Answer: Stanage, Stanage and if you don’t know what a moorland assemblage is, you get a detention. And what have Ring Ouzels, Funny things happen on the and SPA’s got to do with mountaineering, climbing or walking? Answer- very little. Wrong. You’ve just way to the Forum. been banned. No more play for you. By Henry Folkard any people care passionately about Stanage. That really annoyed everyone you ever spoke to. Why bother much is common ground. What is your passion? A with a Forum? Why indeed - because, the BMC reasoned, M wilderness area’, the best gritstone climbing in the the alternative might be living with what others had de- world? Or is it a working farm; the backdrop to Charlotte Bron- cided about us. If we could not argue our own case, whom te’s Jane Eyre, just the place to study Romano British field could we expect to do it for us? patterns; a trans Pennine short cut; a specially protected and The first Forum was held in August 2000, and since then internationally important habitat? Who shares all of those there have been two more. The process, broadly speak- passions - who indeed shares more than two. Where there is ing, has been to invite those present to say what they conflict between those passions who decides their relative most valued about Stanage; to identify where visions were values, and how? complementary and where there was potential for conflict That was the question facing Matthew Croney, a Peak Dis- and to agree, within small groups, possible solutions. These trict National Park Land Agent. He has the job of writing a ten might reconcile opposing views and provide a framework year management plan for the National Park Authority’s North for a new management plan. The anticipation was that a Lees Estate. He believed the old approach, of drafting a plan plan would be produced by July 2001. The first Forum before asking for comment from main partner organisations, proposed a Steering Group to process their proposals in had not worked well in the past, and would not work at all in between plenary sessions, the task was to be essentially the future. His new approach, supported by senior National about process, not about fighting corners. It was antici- Park Officers and the Park Management Committee, would pated this Steering Group might meet three or four times be to ask the people who used the place what they thought and call upon technical experts if such input was needed. about it. He would convene an open meeting - a Forum - to Sixteen members were elected. Dave Turnbull, (then Ac- which everyone who wanted to come could come. The Stanage cess and Conservation Officer for the BMC and now its Forum would value every user’s vision, resolve conflict not by Chief Officer) and I were among them. We, and the others decree but by discussion, promote shared understanding and - a local Councillor, local farmers, mountain bikers, bird create a management plan that would work. watchers, disabled representatives, ramblers, hang glid- There was clearly risk in this approach. How would the Au- ers, estate workers and the like - had no idea what we thority react if the Forum proposed actions which conflicted were letting ourselves in for. We had no right to expect the with its stated policies? How would BMC members react if task to be easy, and it has not been. It has been pretty compromise resulted in a worse deal for climbers? There was acrimonious on occasion. It is now March 2002. The task cynicism too. Some thought there were no real problems, is not complete (though there are about 50 pages of rec- only those created by bureaucrats, Bracken and bureauc- ommendations including 150 agreed proposals) and there racy. Get rid of both and leave the place to the climbers! have been over 30 Steering plus Technical Group meet- Others questioned the point of a talk shop. The Authority had ings. a mind of its own and at the end of the day would surely do Though there has been fair degree of consensus the its own thing. Would English Nature hide behind the alphabet task has grown in the doing. Steering Group members care of legal designations of which only ecologists seem aware? about Stanage. Their views as to how it should be safe- What about the Highways Authority? It is they and not the guarded have sometimes been diametrically opposed. National Park Authority who are responsible for the roads, Matthew Croney’s style has been to let people have their and it is actually what has happened to the roads at Stanage say - which they have done, and often more than once. and Burbage and Toads Mouth and Surprise View that has The most contentious issues have been about parking

30 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

32418_Summit26.p65 30 15/04/2002, 11:03 AM “Recommendation - that the area of both the and Ring Ouzels, of which more anon. Is everything else Edge itself and the sloping land to the south, now hunky-dorey? No, not quite. Mountain bikers may feel they have got little from the process, and the view that be closed to recreational activities between motorised vehicles of any sort are wholly incompatible with 15th March and 15th August annually.” the wilderness experience so valued by the vast majority of people who use Stanage will not please trial bikers or four Roy Taylor, RSPB Conservation Manager. wheel drive enthusiasts. We have proposed improved pub- tional pressure will stop the birds nesting, but rather that it lic transport links, but funding is problematic. We have rec- may stop them nesting in prime sites. ommended improvements to the road side landscape by As part of the Forum process a site meeting took place on the removal of bunding and those brutish wooden posts set a raw and murky snow covered moor in early January 2002. at just the right height to catch a horse’s shin or pitch a There was agreement on a range of measures to improve cyclist over the wall. Ramblers have argued for small but habitat requirements for the birds. This means some change significant changes to some footpaths and fell runners will in land management, reduction in sheep numbers and pro- be asked to vary some routes. Derbyshire Soaring Club have tection of key feeding areas on land between the Edge and negotiated a new agreement on behalf of all pilots which the road by fencing out small areas of bilberry. People will permits two all year take off and landing sites for hang and be asked to keep to the main paths from Burbage North, para gliders. A series of land management measures have Cabin Track and Hooks Carr parking areas, and not to walk been agreed with Broomfield College, who farm the Estate. along the base of the Edge between bouldering areas. Ad- On parking there were strong arguments that you do not ditionally, there will be a request that people avoid using discourage car use by making it easy for people to park, the lower path from Hooks Carr which leads broadly from and that where people can use a car, they will. the parking area to Congo Corner. This path is more gener- Why would you want to discourage car use in the first ally used in descent. Some, perhaps with good cause, may place? Well because that’s what many people at the Forum fear a progression they have seen before: first erect the wanted - a car free landscape was their vision - and be- biggest fence you can, then find a way to prohibit access cause pollution from cars causes environmental damage within it. They may find any compromise which involves fenc- and because sheep get regularly killed by them. There was ing of open country as highly objectionable, aesthetically also the not so small matter of income generation. A fee for unappealing and at odds with the spirit of the CRoW Act. parking is one way of meeting this real need. Pay and Dis- The BMC was not prepared to endorse any restriction on play is and will increasingly become the norm in the Na- bouldering. We agreed to represent the RSPB’s views, which tional Park, so why should Stanage be different? The BMC are strongly supported by local ornithologists. You have seen did not favour Pay and Display because it believed there them at the top of this article. Feelings run high. It is a pity was no real alternative way of getting there for many visi- that what might be a source of pride - a pretty special col- tors, because having it could perversely create more traffic lection of moorland birds - should become a source of con- problems, more parking problems and more little paths; and flict. Surely it does not have to be like that. Are climbers the because ease of parking in designated sites can limit dam- natural allies of conservationists or are they only and al- age to other more environmentally sensitive areas. In the ways hell bent on the destruction of wilderness and wildlife event the Park Management Committee agreed a Steering in the quest to climb? The two interests need not be mutu- Group recommendation not to extend Pay and Display to ally exclusive. There are more imaginative approaches to Burbage North, Cabin Track, Hooks Carr and Dennis Knowle, conservation than the blanket ban. and to retain overspill facility in the Dale. But there will be Perhaps this issue has been the most testing for the Fo- two boxes for voluntary donations. The BMC would encour- rum. It has certainly strained relationships within the Steer- age members to contribute. ing Group. Even if there is a sense that each side remains Then there is the most contentious issue of all - yes, it’s dumbfounded by their perception of complete intransigence those Ring Ouzels (the mountain blackbird) again. Aha, you on the part of the other, the commitment to dialogue has say, I’ve never seen one. That’s rather the point. There are been maintained. To preserve what we value, we have to not many to see, and local ornithologists, supported by the learn and understand what others value - and so indeed RSPB, are passionately keen to ensure everything that can must others learn and understand what we value. It’s been possibly be done is done to protect the last remaining sig- a rough ride, and there will be more to come, but it is diffi- nificant breeding population in the National Park - eight pairs cult to see that any other approach could have produced a in 2001. They hope that with such protection the Estate better outcome. might hold as many as ten pairs - they never nest in par- It is seventy years since Benny Rothman and others were ticularly high densities. Conflict arises because boulderers sent to prison for their part in the celebrated Kinder Mass have something in common with Ring Ouzels - they like the Trespass. We all owe to them the freedom of access we now same places, especially when those places are between enjoy. We also owe it to them to safeguard that freedom. the Rim and the Cowper Stone. Recreational use is not Seventy years on the Stanage Forum promises a way forward. however a common factor in the widespread decline of the Ring Ouzel. The BMC does not believe climbing, bouldering If you would like to find out more about the Stanage or walking present a major threat to moorland assemblages Forum, visit www.peakdistrict.org or contact Clare of breeding birds. Indeed the ornithologists allow that the Bond at the BMC office ([email protected]). problem they see at Stanage is not so much that recrea- PROTECTING THE RING OUZELS The re-opening of Stanage after FMD. But what now? Credit: Clare Bond. For access to and between the Rim to the Cowper Stone use the Edge top. Minimise disturbance between mid March and mid August (you could go elsewhere). Absolutely no gardening. Flash problems beyond Magnetic North. If you do unwittingly disturb a nesting bird a few minutes will not be critical, over ten will. Take all litter away with you. Biodegradable litter can attract predators If you see anyone else behaving badly, ask them not to and explain why.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 3 1

32418_Summit26.p65 31 15/04/2002, 11:04 AM Adventure

The BMC is delighted to own Andy Cave, Chris Bonington, Ed announce the launch of a new Douglas, Paul Pritchard, and Ray Wood. membership initiative in John has selected over 60 hand picked conjunction with the world- images, and each week of the year fea- renowned outdoor photographer tures a different stunning picture on the John Beatty. theme of “adventure”, from remote Big walling on Baffin Island, to walking in John’s work is chiefly concerned with the Cairngorms. the timeless rhythms of the natural So, go on – organise your life for environment, its beauty and simplicity, 2003, and be inspired to get out there and man’s place within it. Now in his whilst you do. Cast aside that dull cor- eighteenth year of business, he has porate desk diary and get something travelled throughout the world. Major to really brighten up your day! At expeditions include seven months around 6 x 6 inches with a glossy soft spent in Antarctica, a winter in cover and spiral bound, this practical Spitzbergen and a four hundred mile yearbook won’t look out of place in any traverse of the Greenland Icecap. His office, but is equally portable and work has appeared in all the major hardwearing to take with you on the outdoor magazines, and he has pro- move. And rest assured, that all pro- duced six books on outdoor and ad- ceeds from BMC sales go straight back venture subjects. into BMC good causes – so the only John is always keen to celebrate the one to profit is you. essence of outdoor adventure in his But of course, even the most organ- work and has produced a great new ised of us won’t be buying a diary for yearbook for 2003. We are collaborat- 2003 just yet, so look out for the year- ing with John in the hope of increasing book when it comes on sale in late awareness of the work of the BMC. This summer. It’ll be available from all good lavish, full colour production is packed outdoor shops, or direct from the BMC full of inspiring pictures from some of at a discounted members' rate, plus of the leading international adventure course a great offer in Summit. photographers. As well as John’s work there are photographs from our very

(CLOCKWISE) on Great Sail Peak, Baffin Island. Credit: Gordon Wiltsie. The Blacktail Can- yonyon, only accessible after a three day raft journey down the Colorado River. Credit: John Beatty. The CascadesCascades, Smith Rock Meadows. Credit: John Beatty. The clear one-week spread with great images. Skimming through Sequoia National Park on the Sierra High Route. Credit: Kaj Bune/ Ecostock. Look out for this cover! 32 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

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32418_Summit26.p65 34 15/04/2002, 11:06 AM 3 ACT Photography Competition 2002

Thanks to all those that took part in the ACT photography and art competition. The standard of photography entries was really high and gave a great flavour of why the UK and Ireland are fantastic places for climbing, hill walking and mountaineering.

The launch of ACT coincides with an important time for outdoor recreation with the Countryside and Rights of Way Act and the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, as well as changes in the legislation which protects wildlife. These changes give increased powers to protect the wildlife and nature conservation interests of the places we love, while establishing a statutory right to enjoy access. Both are equally important and we have to get the balance right. ACT is asking clubs, individuals and areas to propose projects that they could undertake at their favourite crag to improve the environment. If any of you have any good ideas of projects you would like to undertake contact [email protected].

What is ACT? About the Competition Many thanks to those who entered. The adult photography winners are published here, for the Junior winners, see ACT is a new trust set-up to help fund practical conserva- gripped? magazine. We only actually received one art en- tion projects, research and good practice information for try! so that section had to be dropped. All the winners will climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers. ACT is a combined be notified by post, and I'm sure we can manage to find effort by the mountaineering councils of Ireland and Scot- something for the sole artist who contributed too.. land, as well as the BMC, to address growing access and conservation concerns in the United Kingdom and Ireland. 1st Place ACT builds on the good work of the BMC’s Access Fund, An amazing day enjoying the freedom of the hills on which has provided vital support for the BMC’s access and Blencathra in the Lake District by Jon Massey. Jon wins a conservation negotiations and campaigns, information leaf- year's subscription to High/OTE courtesy of GreenShires, lets and practical projects. and a bundle of goodies from the Helly Hansen National Mountaineering Exhibition (HHNME) and BMC. The Challenge Ahead 2nd Place A dramatic and evocative black and white print by Simon ACT aims to raise between £50,000 and £100,000 each Cardy. Taken at the Mushroom Garden, Kinder Plateau. year. This is a significant challenge as it represents a big Climber: Carl Kelsall. Simon wins a year's subscription to increase on the average annual income of the BMC Access High/OTE courtesy of GreenShires plus a smaller bundle of Fund. Members of the outdoor industry have already begun goodies from the HHNME exhibition and BMC. to support ACT. Clothing and equipment manufacturers, retailers, training boards, mountain training specialists, spe- 3rd Place cialist publishers and designers have all signed up as Cor- The Scottish Highlands near porate Partners. They recognise the value of investing in Fort William by Luke Ridgway. the raw materials of their industry and want to be able to He hopes it will inspire people put something back in. to get outdoors and into the But don’t think that it is only businesses that can help. In mountains. Luke also wins a fact, ACT relies on loyal volunteers to help with its projects. small bundle of goodies from However, not everyone can contribute in this hands on way. the NME and BMC. If you love the outdoors and enjoy walking, climbing or moun- taineering, then please consider contributing to ACT. Your Highly Commended contribution really will help to improve access and conserve (Overleaf) Ben Lomond looking the environment for you and future generations. Contact across Loch Avd by Ed Marshall. [email protected] I'm sure we'll find something for Ed too.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 3 5

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Highly Commended

The ACT ethos - Support rural access and - Inform people about rural Based in the UK the Access & Conser- conservation projects that access and conservation issues vation Trust has grown out of and protect access and promote builds upon the highly successful BMC sustainable use of these areas - Research the benefits and Access Fund. Established as a charity impacts of mountain recreation its focus is to provide sustained and - Educate and raise awareness and tourism sustainable access to cliffs, mountains and understanding of and open countryside. It aims to: conservation and responsible - Train and support access conduct issues volunteers

▼ HND Sports Science (Outdoor Activities/ Marine Pursuits/ Adventure Management) ▼ BSc/HND Coastal Zone & Marine Environment Studies ▼ BSc Sail & Powerboat Studies ▼ HND Leisure Boat Design ▼ HND Marine Studies (Professional Crew/Skipper) ... in Britain’s only coastal national park Winter Sports Instructor Programmes Courses in Canada & New Zealand conjunction with 2002 Freephone • CSIA, CASI, NZSIA Ski & Snowboard instruction & examination 0800 716 236 for details www.pembrokeshire.ac.uk • CAA & NZMSC Avalanche Level 1 instruction & examination Over 70 other courses available • Backcountry snowcat & heli-touring • 3 to 12 week programmes available

Sven Brunso at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, B.C. by Henri Georgi

For more information please contact the International School of Sport: T: 01572 813 701 F: 01572 812 932 36 E: [email protected] W: www.theISOS.com BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

32418_Summit26.p65 36 15/04/2002, 11:08 AM

HIGH SUMMER The latest developments at the Helly Hansen National Mountaineering Exhibition.

As well as being the only permanent national climbing partner, made an attempt on the summit with fel- exhibition dedicated to mountains and low climber Edward Norton, but had to turn back because mountaineering, the Helly Hansen National he was having breathing difficulties. They later found out he Mountaineering Exhibition is establishing itself as had frostbite in his larynx. As Mallory headed up the moun- a venue for short term displays of photography and tain for the expedition’s final attempt he realised he had art all with an outdoor or mountaineering theme. forgotten his own camera, so Somervell offered his own. Mallory continued up the mountain and Somervell never This year, as well as having the Ruskin and Switzerland saw his Kodak VPK again. When the Anglo-American expe- exhibition which marked the opening of a year of events to dition of 1999 found George Mallory’s body, Somervell’s celebrate the United Nations International Year of Moun- camera was not with him. The evidence from Mallory’s tains, there will also be a series of other displays and events. body was inconclusive about whether the two climbers suc- Most notably, the Exhibition is currently working with the ceeded in reaching the summit before they died, so the Sandy Irvine Trust to bring to the public a unique collection camera is now the key remaining undiscovered item that of memorabilia that will tell the story of Sandy Irvine’s re- could re-ignite the longest-running mountaineering mystery markable life. The Trust has in its care a wonderful collection of all time. of photographs, letters, diaries and personal possessions that span Irvine’s life from his schools days to Everest. The The Pollution of Everest: myth or reality? Exhibition will be seeking to combine a selection of this When Somervell attempted Everest he was following in the material with the current Mallory collection to create a unique footsteps of a small band of earlier climbers. Today the display. picture is quite different, and as more people make this supreme attempt our impact becomes ever more obvious. The Somervell Sketches Now pictures of discarded oxygen cylinders are as familiar From late March a portfolio of paintings, pastels and to us as images of ice fields and cloud-covered summits. sketches, entitled the Somervell Sketches after their crea- Last July Ed Douglas took a trip to Everest to investigate tor, will be on display at the Exhibition. They are the prop- how successful the various clean-up operations have proved erty of the Alpine Club who have kindly loaned them to the to be and to compare different approaches. Who is effec- Exhibition for their first ever public viewing. They have never tive, and who is more interested in the positive publicity been displayed before so each print will need to be mounted associated with environmental concern? How serious are and framed first. Once the preparation work is complete the Chinese and Nepali authorities in protecting this fragile the sketches will be ready to take their rightful place on region? With thousands of climbers and Sherpas camping public show, rather than hidden from view in London. at the foot of the mountain each year, and many more The collection is described by Exhibition curator John thousands of trekkers travelling through the region, Ed asks Innerdale as ‘A fascinating and breathtaking collection of what is the best way to protect the world’s most famous significant historical importance’ and shows a different side mountain? Ed was accompanied by photographer Ray Wood, to a man who attempted the summit of Everest as part of and his evocative records of the expedition will be on Mallory’s 1924 expedition. Somervell, Mallory’s friend and display at the Exhibition later this year.

(LEFT) Prayer stones at a shrine to a local goddess believed Take nothing but photographs Every year the International Committee of the BMC pro- to reside in the prominent rocks close to Yulba village, Kharta vides logistical and financial support, information and guid- Valley, Everest Region. Credit: Ray Wood. (RIGHT) Everest from the South. Credit: Ed Douglas. 38 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

32418_Summit26.p65 38 17/04/2002, 8:42 AM ance for British mountaineers travelling overseas. Last year tain-related was no exception and the BMC assisted 30 expeditions projects from creat- from Greenland to Bolivia. A vivid portrayal of one of those ing mythical moun- trips will also be on display at the Exhibition later this year. In tain monsters to September last year, with the additional assistance of the planning an expe- Helly Hansen Mountain Adventure Award a team of six set off dition or investigat- to make the first ascent of Raksha Urai (6593m) in the far ing the challenges north west of and to explore the totally unvisited west- and hazards of Discarded oxygen ern flank, formulating accurate maps using GPS technology. mountaineering. bottle now used as a All mountain school bell in Yulba on Helly Hansen 2002 IYM Lecture Series education re- the approach to the If you think these photographic exhibitions sound interesting, sources can be East Face of Everest. then keep an eye open for news of the forthcoming HH lec- downloaded from Credit: Ray Wood. ture series, scheduled for May. Both Ed Douglas and Adam the Exhibition Thomas will be speaking so you can hear the stories from the website www.mountain-exhibition.co.uk. They include an ex- horses mouths, and quiz them on everything from their own pedition planning dossier and the News Chronicle coverage environmental standards to what they had for breakfast. of the first ascent of Everest in 1953. Any youth groups who would like to experience a ‘Mountain Day’ can contact Heidi Mountain days for the kids Hocking, Education Officer at Rheged, on 01768 868000 Children can now get their hands on a rucksack full of kit that or email [email protected]. The cost is just £2 per accompanied Sir Chris Bonington to the top of Everest in 1975 child and groups can visit any weekday. and 1985. Sir Chris donated the kit to the Exhibition earlier this year. The rucksack and kit will allow children to gain ‘hands The Exhibition is open every day and is a perfect on’ experience and make comparisons between the type of equipment needed to reach the summit of the world’s highest addition to a trip to the Lakes, so get up there and mountain and a day pack of the type used to climb Scafell enjoy a complete mountaineering weekend. BMC Pike. Each item of kit is accompanied by a short explanation members get a discounted ticket of £3.50 (normal written by Sir Chris giving the children an insight into how, and adult price £4.95). You can also get a copy of A Brief for what purpose, the equipment is used. The kit is part of an extensive teaching resource called “Mountain Days” that is History of British Mountaineering that accompanies available to school groups visiting the Exhibition. The visit the Exhibition for just £10 instead of the rrp of £15. includes a viewing of ‘Everest’, the most popular large-for- The book is available from the BMC and was reviewed mat film ever, and a trip round the Exhibition. Mountain in Issue 115 of OTE by Stephen Venables. Days inspires children to get involved in all kinds of moun-

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32418_Summit26.p65 39 15/04/2002, 11:10 AM COMPS TROLL BICC’02 & A5 SERIES BBC’02

This years National Championships came thick and fast after the New Year. First off was the TROLL BICC with three events at The Awe- some Walls Liverpool, The Westway London and the Welsh International Climbing Centre in Treharris. Attendance was a bit low but this gave us a bit of leeway to tinker with the new format, with now two routes in the qualifier. There are more changes to come next year including no isolation dur- ing qualification. The expanded A5 Series BBC was a roar- ing success with three rounds this year compared with one in 2001. The Leeds Wall, Alien Rocks One and Two, and the Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show were the venues. Over 100 climbers entered each round and Senior Males were getting turned away. Competitions popular? Surely some mistake. Thanks to all of the sponsors, the venues and all of the voluntary judges, who contributed to two fantastic series of events.

A5 Series BBC’02

Senior Female Senior Male Jo Gordon Malcolm Smith Alison Martindale Gareth Parry Lucinda Hughes Andrew Earl

Junior Female Junior Male Jemma Powell Ian Hollows Emma Twyford Adam Mulholland Rosie Shaw Danny Cattell

TROLL BICC’02

Senior Female Senior Male Lucinda Hughes Chris Cubitt Abigail May Jamie Cassidy April Marr Adrian Baxter (CLOCKWISE) The Man himself. Malcolm Smith cruising to his fourth consecutive Bouldering Championship. This man Junior Female Junior Male is strong and should do well in this year's World Cup events. Jemma Powell Ian Hollows Credit: Parnell. Brummie Mark Croxall competing at home Emma Twyford Cal Reedie before a packed crowd at Round 3 of the A5 Series BBC at Rosie Shaw Adam Mullholland the NEC. Credit: Parnell. Jungle on his way to winning to the TROLL BICC’02 Junior male Category, he also won the A5 Series BBC. Talented lad. Credit: Simmonite.

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culture shock In the 2nd of four International Year of Mountains articles, Tony Howard takes a look at mountain culture and our impact upon it.

e would all like to believe that our climbing activi tive. Some in this union see the traditional lifestyle of the ties impacted either not at all, or preferably posi Bedouin as ecologically damaging. Others see them as un- Wtively, on the indigenous peoples of the steeper wanted ‘gypsies’ on the fringe of modern ‘civilised’ society realms of our planet. But neither is necessarily the case. To and envy them for having so swiftly and successfully cap- have no impact is almost impossible. To have a positive tured the tourism market. Apparently, there are those who impact requires effort and an awareness of ourselves as still call for the removal of the village or conversion of it to intruders or guests in the domain of others. tourist accommodation, to create a ‘clean’ Lawrence of Ara- I would like to take just one example: Wadi Rum in Jordan, bia theme park. Historical sites and even mountains have not a country normally associated with mountains, at least, been given erroneous names to pander to tourists' expecta- not in 1984 when we first went, looking for new rock to tions. There are fantasy ‘Bedouin weddings’ whilst the climb. For us, our explorations have always been as much Bedouin themselves have happily taken up the swashbuck- about meeting the mountain people of other cultures as ling role expected of them. The real Bedouin world with its about climbing. It was consequently a real joy both to be real customs and hospitality is still there but what the tourists welcomed into the scattered Bedouin camps and to dis- see is a façade created for their benefit in tourism brochures. cover that, through hunting, they were excellent climbers Interestingly, throughout this period, the climbing commu- who knew their mountains intimately and delighted in re- nity has continued to have an excellent and genuine rela- counting tales of their adventures. tionship with the locals who see us as ‘different’. We don’t Meeting these people also posed a problem: they were come from Aqaba for an hour trip in the desert – tourist obviously pleased that we were there and were wonderful sheep to slaughter - we stay for a couple of weeks, we get hosts as their traditions dictated, but did they want us to to know them. We travel with them, visit their homes and publicise our findings and encourage others? At that time camps, repeat their climbs – and maybe climb with them. tourism in Rum was almost non-existent. The Bedouin were We respect their culture. Many of us become their friends still predominantly semi-nomadic pastoralists scratching a and return year after year. traditional living from their livestock. But did they want more? But has their quality of life improved since our first visit and Sitting by a fire in a Bedouin tent drinking endless cups of those conversations in the firelight all those years ago? Last tea, we outlined the pros and cons of increasing tourism: spring, I asked one of our Bedouin friends this very question the financial benefits of guiding and desert safari, the ben- “I don’t think so” he Thesaid. declaration“We didn’t have of much2002 when as theyou efits of cultural exchange, the downside of the consequently came, but we had enough,International and we had Year plenty of of Mountains time for our increasing pace of life and the additional pressures that family and friends. These(IYM) days by we thehave noUN time. General We rush living in a more material world creates. Despite our own around with tourists andAssembly for what? I haverecognises a house and athat car. forebodings, they never had any real doubts. They were I have a washing machinemountains and TV are but important I don’t need not them. only keen to assist with our explorations. Really, we are no betterto the off. millionsSometimes of peopleI think we who are livestu- They showed us their climbs, destined to become renowned pid!” he said with a laugh,in them, then andadded those sadly of“But us I whothink likethat as “amongst the world’s best adventure climbs”. We made now it will be difficult toto returnvisit them,to our parent’s but to ways”.the global new routes of our own. In the following years we introduced Since then, the west’scommunity. Islamophobia following the disas- other climbers to the area. Others discovered it for themselves, ter of September 11, combined with the increasingly violent repeating old routes and making new ones. Our guidebooks nightmare of Israel’sMartin occupation Price of from Palestine, the Centre has meant for were published, the local economy slowly grew. Then, with the that Middle East tourismMountain has suffered Studies, more thanPerth most. College Lack- peace deal between Israel and Jordan, tourism boomed. Fol- ing work, some Bedouinexplains have temporarilymore. re-pitched their lowing the precedents of the Alps, and other moun- desert camps. Valleys that in recent years had been devoid tain areas, mass tourism came hotfoot in the steps of the of their traditional presence now have the once common, climbing community. Rum was well and truly on the map. The black goat hair tents tucked into familiar wind-sheltered al- once tiny settlement around the fort suddenly grew into a large coves. It seems the ephemeral honey pot of tourism has village – some would say spreading like a cancer into the not yet totally eradicated the customs of generations. desert. The Bedouin were sucked into Jordan’s mainstream I sometimes wonder if we,(MAIN) and theIsland climbing Peak. Credit:community, Tom economy: they had vehicles to drive, fuel to buy, hitherto un- played any part in the changingBriggs fortunes / Jagged of theseGlobe. people. (RIGHT) In needed furniture, fridges, cookers and washing machines and just 17 years, they have becomeThe Mt fully Blanc paid Massif up members - mountains of the the consequent electricity bills; they discovered the seduc- global economy and subjectare to itsnot two-edged just important sword. to Theyvisitors. are tions of TV which, with its advertising, tempted them (just as it almost, but not quite, locked in. Not too longCredit: ago, Alastair the events Lee does us) to buy ever more superfluous possessions. of last September would have passed them by. Now it’s too Not only that, but Jordanian environmentalists saw an ur- late. I think my Bedouin friend is right. Barring a continuation gent need to protect the area and, conversely, the tourism of world disasters forcing the issue, there is no way back. authorities to further develop it. An uneasy alliance was cre- Had we – the climbers – not discovered Rum and brought ated which included the newly formed Bedouin Co-opera- it from the relative obscurity of Lawrence’s ‘Seven Pillars of

42 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

32418_Summit26.p65 42 15/04/2002, 11:11 AM Wisdom’ to the world’s attention, as was acknowledged by both Jordan’s Director of Tourism and the World Bank, would things have been any different? I think they would. The changes that have taken place as the tourism authorities subsequently commenced development of “The Golden Tri- BUYTHE angle of Petra, Aqaba and Rum” would have been even more abrupt and, from the Bedouin viewpoint, less benefi- cial. Having had those early years of interaction with climb- ers and trekkers before the real explosion of mass tourism has undoubtedly allowed them to realise that they have many valuable assets which they had previously taken for granted: the stunningly beautiful desert and dramatic moun- tains with their magnificent Bedouin climbs; natural rock arches and other weirdly sculpted rocks with pre-historic inscriptions; historic connections with the legendary Law- rence (from their point of view mysteriously revered by tour- BEST X2 MOUNTAIN TENT 2 person - 2.80kg Defallah Atieeq - a son of Sheikh Atieeq and a well known Desert Guide. Credit: F. Lenfant. ists); and their own warm hospitality and customs which Lawrence and other western writers have extolled. By the time that others realised that Rum was a ‘golden egg’ and wanted a piece of the action, the Bedouin already knew it and had it! This not only put them in a stronger position to negotiate, but they also had friends in the world-wide climbing and trekking communities who supported them in their claim to their indigenous people’s rights. A50 Moving into 2002, the end game is unfolding. Rum has been declared a ‘Special Regulations Area’ (National Park) ALPINE SAC something which we personally have always supported, but it may not be as advantageous as we had hoped for the local people. Despite the fact that the area can hardly cope with 45+10 ltr - 1.08kg current normal tourism numbers, it is being further developed and promoted with World Bank millions. Rumours of plans to marginalise Bedouin involvement are still rife (but consistently denied by those concerned). Their right to retain the customs and lifestyle of their choice seems under greater threat than For a catalogue and stockist list ever as parts of Rum are reputedly being targeted for closure, not only to visitors, but possibly also to them. phone 01434 673724 It may yet be that we can continue to play a positive role by being available, if called on, to support the Bedouin in Available Now choosing for themselves where and how they want to live and which parts of their culture they wish to retain as they move into the future. (LEFT) Tony Howard with Hammad Hamdan, son of Sheikh Hamdan. The combination of Sheikh Hamdan's Route with Hammad's Route forms a classic 1-2 day crossing of Jebel Rum. Many of Hammad's sons now work as guides. Credit: Howard/Taylor. For more info on Wadi Rum and to join the debate on the changes affecting the region see: www.nomadstravel.co.uk [email protected] www.crux.uk.com www.geocities.com/wadirumforum

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 4 3

32418_Summit26.p65 43 15/04/2002, 2:01 PM ARENA

Recommendations were adopted from the Organisational Management Committee Summary Structure Working Group. 7 new clubs were accepted. 3 can- For the 9th February 2002. There were specialist presenta- didates were elected to be put forward at the AGM for elec- tions on future work programmes from the Mountain Heritage tion as Vice President; Gordon Adshead, Paul (Tut) Braithwaite Trust, High Performance Steering Group, Equity Programme, and John Mason. Youth Advisory Panel, Finance Committee, Technical Group, Training Advisory Group, Competitions Committee, Guidebook Committee, Access & Conservation Committee, Getting Involved! Committee, Hut Co-ordination and Advisory Panel and Find out more about Area Meetings and all the work of the Harrison’s Rocks Management Group. The membership and BMC areas with a new facility on the BMC website. Just click terms of reference for each specialist sub-committee were on "Getting Involved" and select an area. You can view all approved. It was agreed that a formal reporting procedure at upcoming and past meetings, download agendas and min- Management Committee meetings was required for Moun- utes, and find maps of all the venues. But that's not all, tain Services. Information was circulated regarding the Snow- there's area news, volunteer vacancies, and a list of key donia Green Key Strategy. Alex Lawrence presented the ac- area contacts. Making your views known or helping out is counts to the Management Committee indicating an esti- now even easier than before, so don't delay log on and find mated end of year deficit for 2001 of £160K. AL advised out more. This is just the first stage of development, so if you that a more accurate picture of the accounts would be avail- have any comments on the system, do get in touch. able following the next Finance Committee meeting on 12 Feb. It was advised that the Annual Report would automati- cally be sent to Clubs and Area and Specialist Committee Annual Report & Accounts members but that individual members would be invited to The Annual report is now out, and any member can request request a copy. Arrangements were noted for the AGM and a copy if required, or download it from the website as a pdf. Annual Dinner on 6 April 2002 in Cumbria. Agenda issues The audited accounts have now also been finalised and were discussed and members of the committee were invited copies are availiable. Contact the BMC office for details if to suggest themes for forums and workshops and the Na- required. tional Open Forum.

Area Meetings Calendar 2002

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TRAVEL mountain travelling

or newcomers to the mountain environment, the choice of ranges Fand peaks can appear bewildering. Even when you have decided where to go, you then have to choose whether to organise the whole trip yourself or sign up with a tour operator. In this exclusive extract from ‘The Mountain Traveller’s Handbook’, Paul Deegan spells out some of the options available to the Paul has climbed and trekked in the Andes, Alaska, East Africa, European Alps, Himalaya 21st Century trekker and mountaineer. and Pamirs. His articles have appeared in a number of publications including The Sunday (MAIN) The Zaalayskiy Khrebet, on the border of the Kyrgyz Times, The Telegraph, High Mountain Sports, Republic and Tajikistan. Credit: Martin Hartley / Mamiya. Global Adventure and Geographical.

46 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

32418_Summit26.p65 46 15/04/2002, 11:12 AM TRAVEL

Where To Go? Think of Europe and most people think of the Alps. There are, however, dozens of other mountain regions worth ex- ploring, from the Pyrenees of Spain to the Pindos moun- tains of Greece. Most Scandinavian countries have mile- upon-mile of deserted summits and tundra. The Tatras offer alpine climbing at a fraction of western European prices. Even southern European countries such as Portugal – which are often dismissed by trekkers and climbers as only suit- able for sun-lovers – have their own pockets of highland, if you look hard enough for them. Africa’s mountains are crowned by Mount Kilimanjaro, the continent’s highest point. ‘Kili’, together with its equatorial Trekkers in Loboje, Khumbu Valley. Credit: Deegan. neighbours Mount Meru and Mount Kenya, offers both trekkers and mountaineers the opportunity to ascend from a sub-tropi- ing to note that Greenland has recently enjoyed a resur- cal to a sub-arctic environment in little more than a week gence in popularity and is currently a very attractive destina- (although whether it is wise to do so this quickly is open to tion for the adventurous mountain traveller eager for new debate - see news section). Yet Africa offers the mountain challenges in an environment not dissimilar to Antarctica. explorer much more than these sub-6000m peaks. Uganda’s Ruwenzori, Ethiopia’s Simien mountains, and Morocco’s Atlas When To Go? range – the last just a stone’s throw from Europe – are just a few of the continent’s less well-advertised mountain jewels. Deciding where to go is one thing, deciding when to go is South America is home to the Andes, the world’s longest quite another. You might have to take your holiday at a and perhaps most diverse mountain range. Running for vir- particular time of year, when the area you wish to visit is not tually the entire length of the continent, the Andes contains at its best. But if this is the case, don’t worry too much. For a lifetime’s worth of opportunities for the backpacker and example, people who can only take long holidays in the mountaineer. Highlights include Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, summer months, but who wish to visit the Himalaya, may be Bolivia’s Cordillera Real and Ecuador’s high altitude volca- discouraged to learn that most of Nepal is besieged by the noes, as well as the region known as Patagonia which strad- monsoon at this time of year. However, pockets of the coun- dles southern Chile and Argentina. try – such as Dolpo and Mustang – are still accessible in North America contains a stunning choice of mountain July and August. Furthermore, vast tracts of the Indian ranges. The USA boasts the Sierra Nevada and the Cas- Himalaya, most notably Ladakh and Zanskar, are at their cades, as well as rock climbing meccas such as Yosemite very best during the summer. So too is the Karakoram, and and Joshua Tree. Canada is not short on mountain wilder- anyone who has been to Concordia would argue that this ness: backpacking opportunities abound in the infamous part of the world is every bit as spectacular as the Himalaya. Yukon and the North West Territories, whilst the St. Elias [The Mountain Traveller’s Handbook includes a comprehen- range rivals the climbing in the adjoining American State of sive month-by-month breakdown of the most popular ranges Alaska, which is one enormous playground for mountain- and when they can be visited – Ed.] eers. If you can’t decide between the USA and Canada then head for North America’s most renowned mountain How Long To Go For? range, the Rockies, which spans both countries. In theory, it is possible to fly to Kathmandu, trek to a point Australasia’s premier snow-capped mountains are to be within sight of and be back at your place of found in New Zealand’s Southern Alps, which offer alpinists work within a week. In reality, a few more days would allow technical climbing on mountains such as Cook, Tasman you to enjoy (rather than endure) the experience. Calculat- and Aspiring. Trekkers (or trampers, as they are known in ing the correct number of days that are required to complete New Zealand) are able to tackle world-class trails such as a particular mountain journey safely and successfully can be the Milford and Routeburn Tracks. Australia is perhaps less worked out by answering three principal questions: How far well-known for its mountains, but there are plenty of high- away from your home is the country you wish to visit? What land areas including the Snowy Mountains and Blue Moun- is the distance to the peak from the runway, road, or rail- tains. The Carstensz Pyramid is perhaps the most well-known head? What altitude do you want to reach? piece of rock in the Pacific, but there are gems here for the The number of hours (or days) it takes to travel to the trekker too: the Kokoda Trail and the Shaggy Ridge in Papua country is important, as the amount of time spent travelling New Guinea are tough treks steeped in the history of the to your destination can eat up much of the time you have at Second World War. your disposal. Two classic examples (for people travelling Then there is Asia, home to the world’s highest mountain from the UK) are the Southern Alps of New Zealand and range, the Himalaya. Bhutan, , Nepal, India and all Patagonia in South America. Whilst the trekking in both of have a share of the thousands of peaks that make up the these stunning areas takes place at comfortable low alti- chain, and there remain many untrodden summits and valleys tudes, the number of hours spent flying to and from these awaiting discovery. A number of other principal mountain ranges locations makes a trip of less than three weeks impractical also vie for attention within Asia. The Karakoram is dominated to all but the most determined travellers. When it comes to by , the world’s second-highest mountain, whilst Central altitude, the restrictions are entirely physiological. It is dan- Asia’s Pamirs and Tien Shan ranges straddle the Central Inde- gerous to expect the human body to adjust to heights above pendent States of the former Soviet Union and neighbouring 2500m without an appropriate period of acclimatisation. China. Dozens of other locations, from the Hindu Kush to the Kamchatka volcanoes, await your discovery. Catch-Up Days Finally, Antarctica has in recent years begun to reveal a Treks and climbs are sometimes unavoidably extended by new and frozen world of adventure in the Ellsworth Moun- several days because of prolonged bad weather. Further- tains and Queen Maud Land to those with the means to more, flights can be cancelled due to high winds, roads can reach them. Meanwhile, the mountains that line the Antarc- be washed away by landslides, leaves can make trails slip- tic Peninsula now offer increasingly affordable opportunities pery with all the possible delays that can occur, many expe- to climb on the Earth’s most remote continent. It is interest- rienced travellers prefer to build in one or two ‘catch-up

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days’ at the end of their journey so that they don’t miss that organised by travel agencies, you are not required to make all-important flight home. If you are unsure from the outset any effort to be sociable with people in a group who are that you will be able to make the return flight, it might be simply ‘not your type’. You are more likely to be accepted worth paying slightly more for your airline ticket so that you by local communities than if you travel with several other can change the return date without incurring a large finan- people. You can take as many days off as your schedule cial penalty. will allow and alter your itinerary on a whim. However, should things start to go askew, you will have no-one to turn to for Organising your trip advice and assistance; in an emergency you will probably Once you have chosen where and when to go, one of the have to rely entirely on the sympathy of complete stran- next things to decide is whether you want (or are required to gers. It is also important to point out that there are certain have) the services of a commercial company. Your options mountain regions in the world where trekking on your own is include: Using a travel agency based in your home country, inadvisable because of the political situation in the coun- employing the services of an operator located in the country try. (Appendix A includes a list of organisations able to iden- you are visiting (known as an ‘in-country operator'), or doing tify destinations unsuitable for solo travel.) it all yourself. Of course, there is a way to deflect some of these poten- Each has its advantages and disadvantages. How much tial drawbacks, and that is to travel independently with a you want to arrange for yourself, whether you want to travel friend (or friends). There is at least a modicum of psycho- in a group and the size of your budget will help you decide logical strength to draw on when your team numbers more which approach is right for you. You could end up using a than one, albeit at the expense of uninhibited freedom. mix of two (or on occasion all three) styles of travel, de- If you choose to travel independently (either on your own or pending on the nature and duration of your journey. with friends) you will need to take on all the tasks that would otherwise have been handled by a company. Securing visas, registering with your embassy and organising communication Travel Agency with the outside world in an emergency are just some of the Trekking and expedition agencies based in your home coun- many logistics you will need to concern yourself with. try exist to take care of every part of your trip. These compa- In addition to a visa, you may need a permit to trek in a nies secure international flights, arrange internal transport, particular region or to climb a certain mountain. Such requests book hotels, offer appropriate insurance, arrange permits are usually processed by the government’s ministry of tour- and hire guides. A responsible agency will also help you ism, or the country’s official mountaineering body. These per- obtain a visa, place you in a group of people with a similar mits might take a long time to secure, so as soon as you have level of mountain experience to your own, and offer advice decided where you want to go, it is a good idea to contact the on suitable types of clothing and equipment. An agency can embassy and find out whether such permissions are required. also act as an emergency point of contact for your relatives Indeed, government regulations may require you to enlist the whilst you are in-country. In the event that you have a less- services of an in-country operator. than-satisfactory experience, the travel agency is likely to Other trekking permits can only be obtained when you be accountable to the laws of your own country. Of course, arrive in-country. It is worth arriving early at the department this level of service comes at a certain price, which is why that issues the permits, in order to avoid the inevitable booking through a travel agency is normally more expensive mid-morning queues. Find out in advance the cost of the than using an in-country operator. permit, and in what denomination payment is required. Try to have the exact money. If you cannot be bothered to In-Country Operator stand in line, then find an in-country agent who is prepared The majority of travel agencies use in-country operators. to arrange your permit in return for a small fee. Some of these companies are wholly or partly owned by the If you do choose to go it alone, build in sufficient time to relevant agency, whilst others are independent businesses organise all the necessary paperwork. It is probably worth which sell their services to one or more agencies (or other keeping a couple of spare self-portraits in your passport in-country operators). Booking directly with an in-country whilst travelling, just in case one is required to accompany operator cuts out the middle-man (in this case the travel an unexpected piece of documentation. It is advisable to agency) and is therefore cheaper; sometimes by a signifi- carry photocopies of all your essential documents. cant amount. There are various ways to track down a suit- [The BMC has an info sheet which contains a list of ques- able company: you might receive a personal recommenda- tions to ask tour operators in order to help you choose tion by someone who has travelled with a particular outfit, or which company is right for you. For a free copy (also avail- decide to take the advice of a recently published guidebook able to non-members for £2.50) email: or magazine article. Most people who book with an in coun- [email protected] and ask for the ‘Quiz Your Tour Op- try operator have time on their side and are able to person- erator’ info sheet. The same questions are also included in ally visit the various businesses upon arrival. Booking di- The Mountain Traveller’s Handbook - Ed.] rectly with an in-country operator is not always the ideal solution for backpackers who have only a short period of READ MORE! time at their disposal and no prior experience of their in- The Mountain tended destination. Bear in mind that if you do receive a Traveller’s Handbook poor service, obtaining any sort of compensation in certain countries could be a forlorn hope. (ISBN 0903908476) is One significant advantage of in-country operators is that published by the BMC most will be prepared to make partial arrangements for you. at £13, or £11.50 to For example, you might ask the operator to only organise members. Available by internal flights and trekking permits. Or you might want to hire phoning the BMC on a guide, but choose to carry all your own personal equipment 0870 010 4878 or rather than employing additional porters or pack animals. visiting www.thebmc.co.uk or of Going It Alone course from all good Going it alone can create a wonderful sense of independ- bookshops. ence. You are answerable to no-one and, unlike on trips

48 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

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TECHNICAL

clearly, the helmets utilis- ing foam as an energy absorber offer far better protection in the frontal impact situation, with the HELMETS thick foam/soft shell hel- met showing forces trans- Off centre impacts. By Mark Taylor mitted very similar to those experienced in the ver the two years of its existence, the BMC Techni crown impact test. If the cal Committee’s Helmet Testing Programme has three types of helmet are Oconducted much useful research into the level of carefully examined it is not protection we can expect from the various types of climbing too difficult to see why the helmet on the market. However (as is inevitably the case results are this way: with these things!) the investigations have thrown up some important new questions and areas of concern. Here, Mark Thick foam/soft shell - The thickness of foam is constant Taylor of the University of Leeds (head of the testing pro- throughout the whole shell, and as this is the main energy- gramme) looks at one such issue – the case of off-centre absorbing layer, it is clear that the helmet will be effective impacts – and discovers some surprising facts. wherever an impact occurs. At the end of the year 2000, the BMC climbing helmet testing program found itself with several unanswered ques- Thick foam/hard shell - With these helmets the foam is tions amongst the mass of useful data it had generated, but concentrated around the crown, and thins out towards the one issue in particular stood out above the others. Testing edges or simply stops. Again the foam is the main energy had shown quite clearly that in an impact on the crown of a absorber, and as it is thinner at the edges, the transmitted helmet, a traditional hard-shelled helmet with a textile cra- force is much greater for an impact in these areas than one dle offers unparalleled protection, but as we all know, this where the foam is thickest. only reflects one of the hazards that climbers face where a helmet may provide protection. Traditional - The main energy-absorbing component in these When the original UIAA standard (on which the current EN helmets is the textile webbing cradle, and the crucial clear- standard is based) was written, these hard shelled helmets ance distance between this and the shell. This webbing is were all that was available, and the writers considered that anchored to the shell at the rim, which means that the nearer the major risk to climbers was from falling objects. As a the rim an impact occurs, the lower the energy absorption result, the major pre-requisite of the standard was that hel- will be – in this case the force transmitted is over four times mets for climbing and mountaineering should provide ad- the maximum allowed for a comparative crown impact by equate protection against impacts on the crown of the head. the EN standard. Unfortunately, this means that requirements in both these standards for minimising the effects of impacts elsewhere, In light of these findings, we should remember that most or for preventing major injury if the climber hit the ground incidents reported to the BMC do involve impacts in the headfirst are minimal. crown area, and on the whole the helmet does its job more After several conversations with climbers about the effects than adequately. In the past 20 years there have only in- of hitting the deck or swinging headfirst into a route we vestigated two instances that we are aware of where injuries decided to look further into this crucial area. A new compari- were sustained to the forehead or back of the head whilst son test was devised whereby the front of a helmet (inclined wearing a helmet. So, what does this mean for the user? As at 45º from the vertical – see figure 1) would be subject to usual it all comes down to choice, preference and the type an impact equal in energy to the crown impact test stipulated of climbing you will be doing, but the above results provide a in the EN standard - 98 Joules (or a 5kg weight dropped from couple of clear pointers to bear in mind when buying a new 2m in real language!), using a flat striker. Three common helmet: types of helmet were to be compared: For general rock climbing, at the typical British crag you 1. A traditional hard-shelled helmet should be looking for a lightweight helmet that offers good (e.g. HB Joe Brown, Edelrid Ultralight). all round protection (ie. from impacts from all sides) with 2. A modern thick foam/soft shelled helmet good ventilation to help keep the old noggin cool. Modern (e.g. Cassin Mercury, Camp Starlight, Mercury, El Cap). foam/shell combinations are a good choice. 3. A modern thick foam/hard shelled helmet (e.g. Black Diamond Half Dome, Camp StarTech). For alpine and , good top impact performance is more important along with good resistance to penetration A comparison of these results found and the standard from sharp falling objects. Traditional shell/cradle models crown impact results for similar helmets is shown below, are more appropriate for this use. and makes pretty disturbing reading. As we can see quite It is worth stressing (once again!) that the Helmet Type Modified Frontal Crown most important criteria when choosing a hel- Impact (kN) Impact (kN) met is that you actually like it and feel com- Traditional 42.6 4.6 fortable wearing it, otherwise the odds are it Thick foam/hard shell 16.4 9.3 will stay in your attic and not be protecting Thick foam/soft shell 8.6 9.2 you at the crucial moment. As the old saying goes “any helmet is better than no helmet” – a lot of us would do well to remember this in Table above: The summary of results comparing forces trans- these fashion conscious days… mitted during standard crown impacts modified (off centre) Further information regarding the work impacts. The current standard stipulates a transmitted force of of the Helmet Testing Programme was de- less than 10kN for a crown impact, but has no requirement for tailed in Summit issues 19 & 20 – contact a test for an off-centre as described above. the office for back issues.

50 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

32418_Summit26.p65 50 15/04/2002, 11:15 AM

EXPEDITIONS 2002

Well, it hardly seems like five Messner as ‘the greatest remaining big gin peak of Suitilla (6373m) in a pre- minutes since we sat down to put mountain face in the western hemi- viously restricted area of the Kuamon this piece together for 2001. But sphere’ has never been attempted and district of Uttar Pradesh. is riddled with objective danger. time flies when (other people) are Garhwal Virgin Summit having fun, and each year before North Wales Alaska Anglo-Irish-Spanish venture looking for you know it there’s another crop McAleese & Turner’s attempt of a new the first ascent of Pk 6044m (NW of of world-class routes authored by line on the East Face of Middle Triple Badrinath) and giving themselves a British expeditions. Peak (Kichatna Spires) is sure to be good chance at it by trying two sepa- All seven continents saw some seri- one of the most closely watched trips rate routes. They will also be investi- ous attention from British teams last this year. The pair will also be attempt- gating methods of predicting AMS and year, and 2002 will be no exception. In ing the first British ascent of both sum- managing human waste in the moun- the International Year of Mountains, the mits of Mt. Hess by two new routes. No tain environment. British will again be leading the way - slouching around then! not only technically but also with respect Ramjak Peak to the sustainable development and the Scottish Moonflower Gary Murray will lead a small four-man integration of all groups who visit or live The Benson brothers in action again, team to the remote Upper Sanger Valley within the mountain environment. Each no doubt spurred on by British suc- in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. expedition is required to adhere to en- cesses in this area in 2001. Pete and They are looking for the first ascents of vironmental and ethical codes before Andy will be trying a new line on the Ramjak (6318m) and Pk 6127m. being supported by the BMC/MEF, and Moonflower Buttress and you just know several ventures have specific scientific it’s gonna be hard… And they want to Sharks Fin aims with the intention of improving un- finish at the summit! Although Meru Central (6450m) re- derstanding of the human/environmen- ceived its first ascent last year, the line tal relationship. So read on to find out ‘The Longest Day’ (Alaska) stuck mainly to snow and mixed ground what some of the leading mountaineers Ian Parnell at it again in Alaska, with to the right of the true nose known as will be up to in 2002, and remember – plans for a new route on the SE Face the 'Sharks Fin'. If Jules Cartwright and there’s nothing stopping you doing the of Mt Foraker (5305m) and the first Co. can pull off the first true ascent of same! free ascent of ‘Denali Diamond’ on the the fin, they can claim another British SW Face of Denali (6194m). More climb of truly worldwide significance Antarctic Convergence Zone multi-day marathons in store! (see photo). Valuable exploratory mountaineering on the Antarctic Convergence Penin- West Buttress of Mount Hunter Shishapangma sula, in the midst of a packed pro- Malcolm Bass kept his eyes open on After two withdrawals, this team was gramme of scientific research into im- descending the west ridge of Hunter, and cut down to Victor Saunders and Andy pacts on the ecosystems of the area. spotted this tempting line up the west Parkin, who hoped to make the first buttress of the southern peak – the first winter ascent of Shishapangma Mount Markham Discovery ascent is up for grabs and the two-man (8013m), possibly by the Polish-Swiss Running over New Year into 2003, this team are trying for a single push style. Couloir on the S Face. No word yet. expedition will make the first “true” (hu- man powered) ascent of Markham British Donjek Glacier West Face Swachand (4351m), deep in the Antarctic Penin- The irrepressible and abnormally well- Guy Edwards and partner head off to sula. The mountain is so remote its only travelled Geoff Hornby fancied the Yu- explore the upper Gangotri Glacier and other ascent has been by helicopter kon this year, and chose the Donjek attempt a first ascent on Swachand and skidoo! These men are going to Glacier, which is conveniently sur- (6721m) after building an impressive be very cold…(Approval only) rounded by unclimbed peaks up to climbing reputation in their new home- 4200m. Not for long, one suspects! land of Canada. (No grant awarded) East Face Denali Jules Cartwright makes an audacious British Indian Suitilla West Gyundi attempt on the 800m mixed Upper East Graham Little will lead a four strong This all female team (led by the ever- Buttress. The route described by Anglo-Indian team attempting the vir- active Mary Twomey) plan to visit the

52 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

32418_Summit26.p65 52 15/04/2002, 11:15 AM Spiti region of the Himachal Pradesh and team also hope to make some first ond (or first?) ascent of the serious to explore the West Gyundi Glacier sys- ascents of peaks up to 2000m. and sustained Maestri-Egger Route on tem, and hope to make first ascents of the N Face of Cerro Torre (3128m). peaks up to 5900m on its eastern side. Lemon Mountains They were unsuccessful but plan to A mixed-ability team of ten members return next year. British Heart of Asia (mainly from the Alpine Club) planning Nina Saunders will be leading a six some further exploration of the Lemon Return of the Crazy Gringos strong team to the Tananbogo region of Mountains area and a few new routes Oh my word – not again! Fitzroy and the Altai, Mongolia to climb new routes on the Cathedral and the Minster. Torre Egger, alpine-style and in winter? and improve the region's mapping. Crazy indeed. Zagros Mountains Big Wall British Mongolian Geoff Hornby up to his usual exploratory A truly exploratory trip to the land of tricks, attempting to free climb unclimbed BMC & MEF FUNDING the yurt led by Paul Hudson. The team towers around Bisotun in the Kurdish has identified four possible areas in- homeland to the south of Terhan. Yet The BMC administers UK Sport funding cluding the Tsagaannuur National Park again, logistics, permits and the locals for expedition grants. To meet the criteria (North of Olgly) containing numerous are likely to be the major obstacles! for consideration for an award, teams unclimbed 4000m peaks. Expect must be attempting first (or first British) pointers for return visits. Angel Falls John Arran wets (ha!) his appetite with ascents in remote mountainous environ- Kullyu Too Mountains an attempt to make the first free as- ments – in good “alpine” style. Expedi- The little explored southwest region of cent of this Venezuelan wall more fa- tions whose primary objective is scien- the Kullyu Too range of Kyrgyzstan is mous for its awesome single drop wa- tific work in approved mountain ranges scheduled for some attention by a four- terfall. are also welcome to apply. The UK Sport man team looking for first ascents excellence fund is a separate purse from amongst its c.5000m peaks. Apolobamba 2002 An Anglo-Spanish team visiting the which awards are made to those expedi- Khrebet Kyokkiar Cololo Massif of the Apolobamba range tions that are felt to be of global signifi- David Gerrard heads back to Kyrgyzstan have their eye on a number of cance, often allowing the expedition to for a return match with one of the few unclimbed peaks, and can hopefully operate at a very high standard, giving peaks they didn’t knock off last year. further geographical knowledge of this the best chance of success. The four-man team also hopes to build continually popular area. on the geographical knowledge of the Applications for 2003 should be made area and has several new objectives in Jirishanca to the Mount Everest Foundation (MEF), mind. Fresh from Silencing the Seracs of which also provides substantial grant op- Tupilak in ’01, Al Powell turns his at- portunities to exploratory expeditions West Face of Kizil Asker tention to Peru and the first ascent of from New Zealand. Contact Bill Ruthven, This young three-man team under Es the central couloir of the wonderfully- Tresidder hopes to make the first Brit- named Jirishanca (6126m) in the Gowrie, Cardwell Close, Warton, Preston ish Alpine-style ascent of the 1500m Cordillera Huayhuash. PR4 1SH or visit www.mef.org.uk for fur- West Face of Kizil Asker (5482m) in ther details and application forms. Dead- the Western Kokshaal Too, Kyrgyzstan. Maestri-Egger Alpine Style lines for submission are 31 August and Alan Mullin and team have also re- The face has been previously sieged 31 December. via the Russian competition scene. turned! They were attempting the sec- British Siguniang Mick Fowler heads up the second ex- pedition to the rugged Sichuan Prov- ince. This particular area is previously unvisited by the British – even by Mick - whose primary objective is the first ascent of Siguniang (6250m) by its North face. Borkoldoy The first visit by western climbers to the Borkoldoy Khrebet region of Tien Shan, so anything goes in terms of objectives! There are five peaks over 5200m wait- ing for Stephen Saddler and team. “Great Walls of China” This mixed six-person team is hoping to make first ascents on the thousand –metre granite walls of the Qionglai Range, Sichuan Province. If they have any energy left, there are two peaks over 5500m to finish off with! Cambridge Greenland An adventurous jaunt to the unexplored Eastern region of Louise-Boyd’s Land An unusual view of Meru’s Sharks Fin. It's the rock tower on the right of the shot, with involving a programme of glaciological the steep ground that Jules Cartwright's team will attempt clearly visable. The shot is and geological research. Chris Lockyear taken from 5800m on the as yet unclimbed East Ridge/Face where past attempts have failed to penetrate the upper rock band. Photo: MacNae.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 5 3

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A simple little walk? by Andy Say

was up in the Cairngorms recently - it was Friday when I had a day off and after too much time spent over a Icomputer just had to get out. A colleague dropped me off and I wandered up towards the Fiacall a’ Choire Chais in strengthening wind wondering at the hardiness of the average Scots skiier. VVIIDDEEOOSS Going up the Fiacall I didn’t actually get blown over so I suppose it was just an average sort of day. I will admit to (£1.25 p+p)UK stumbling once or twice though and a group of slim lads Stick It...... 15.95 nearby seemed to be having a tough time of it. Once on West Coast Pimp...... 17.99 the plateau and away from the edge things did quieten Masters Of Stone...... 15.99 down a touch and I wandered over Sneachda and down to Masters Of Stone 2 - Hard Rock...... 15.99 the top of the Goat Track in increasing cloud. I had a vague Masters Of Stone 3 - 3rd Stone from the Sun.....15.99 plan to go over to Ben Macdui and maybe head South Masters of Stone 4 - Pure Force...... 18.99 before dropping into the Lairig Ghru and so I set off along Masters Of Stone 5 ...... 16.99 the side of Coire Domhain. But not before setting a bearing Rock the Soul of Rock Climbing...... 14.99 on my compass as the cloud had built up and the wind was back to some force. After just a couple of hundred metres Rockcourse...... 19.99 the cloud had managed to create a white-out without any Rock Climbing Skills – The Basics & Beyond...... 16.99 snow coming down. Just a uniform, flat light with no visible Hard Grit...... 15.95 features. It was difficult to walk in a straight line without Under the Sky Above the Sea...... 15.95 constant reference to the compass and when I wanted a One Summer Bouldering in the Peak ...... 14.99 bite to eat I actually dug a small hole to get out of the wind. Cutting Loose...... 14.99 What was strange though was that I had no real thoughts Real Thing ...... 16.99 of turning back although a descent to the North would have Waterfall Ice...... 24.99 been easy enough. Just the vaguest of plans was enough to keep me going. As I came out of Coire Domhain and Alpine Ice...... 18.99 contoured round a quick clearing, gone almost as soon as Bleau...... 14.95 seen, revealed a glimpse of a shallow curved valley but Free Hueco ...... 17.99 scale was difficult to determine. By now I was beginning to Rampage...... 17.99 doubt my compass (a real sign of confusion) and realised Alps 4000...... 14.99 that continuing on was more than a touch silly. A change of Everest – The Hard Way...... 14.99 plan was called for and closer scrutiny of the map showed Everest – The Last Unclimbed Ridge ...... 14.99 that I was less than one kilometre from the top of the March Everest in Winter...... 14.99 Burn. I had never been that way but had heard of it as a possible descent. The map also revealed that I was just Eiger Solo...... 14.99 coming into a curving, shallow corrie containing the Feith Matterhorn...... 14.99 Buidhe. Big Stone...... 16.99 Just under thirty years ago a couple of parties of school The Bat...... 14.99 kids had come across almost exactly my route in November Monkey Pump...... 16.99 in increasing snowfall and increasing winds. They had a Gogarth...... 14.99 plan to overnight at the hut that used to sit near the top of Extreme Ice...... 14.99 the March Burn. But the second team, tired by the condi- Extreme Rock...... 14.99 tions, never made it. After two nights out the party was found. A student teacher and five children had died. They K2 – The Savage Mountain...... 14.99 didn’t even have the amount of snow to dig into that I had Out Of The Shadows ...... 14.99 had for my snack break. With no shelter they had eventu- Ballooning Over Everest...... 14.99 ally succumbed despite being, for the time, well equipped. Land Of Mist & Fire...... 14.99 The repercussions were not enormous. No significant Climb International ...... 14.99 blame was attached to the leaders. The hut was removed Mountain Men...... 14.99 along with others that could lure people into the plateau Great Walks in Lake District 1...... 12.99 with false assurance of safety. But in the relatively enclosed world of those that instruct and lead in the mountains ‘The Great Walks in Lake District 2...... 12.99 Cairngorms Tragedy’ still has resonance. The day before I Great Walks in Scotland...... 12.99 had been talking to one of those involved in the rescue Great Walks in the Yorkshire Dales...... 12.99 efforts. And on this day the vaguest of plans and a desire Double Cassettes (£2.50 p+p) UK for some fresh air had brought me into the same situation; The Face ...... 19.99 pushing on, not wanting to turn back, ignoring rational judge- The Edge ...... 19.99 ment. I had some excitement descending the March Burn, not Wilderness Walks ...... 19.99 exactly a path past the waterfall, and a fair walk out to the Wilderness Walks 2...... 19.99 Sugar Bowl for a lift. My thoughts kept returning to the tragedy and the way that a simple seeming adventure had CALL OUR CREDIT CARD HOTLINE ON ended. It is so easy to listen to the voice that tells you what you planned to do and want to do rather than the voice that tells you what you should do. And beyond that there aren’t 0153601536 382563382563 really any morals to either my day on the hill or that of the or send your cheque (payable to GreenShires Publishing) to us at : tragedy; these things can happen when you push out into GreenShires Publishing, FREEPOST MID 17378, Telford Way, the mountains. Kettering, Northants, NN16 8UN. 54 Please note price in brackets denotes P&P for UK only. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 Overseas orders please enquire.

32418_Summit26.p65 54 15/04/2002, 1:35 PM BRIEFING

bilities within a club structure; care, maintenance and moni- Student Safety and Good Practice toring of pooled equipment; event planning; introducing Seminar, Plas y Brenin novices; navigation; group use of climbing walls and other The annual BMC Safety and Good Practice Seminar is sched- practical topics. We are particularly inviting interest from uled to take place on 5th & 6th October 2002 at Plas y walking clubs and will be incorporating a special workshop Brenin. Aimed at the needs of student based mountain on walking and scrambling. Places are limited at this popu- walking and climbing clubs, post holders in particular are lar event so please book early. Booking forms will be avail- invited to a mixture of practical training sessions, optional able from the BMC website and office shortly. If you are discussion groups and lectures. These cover a broad range interested in receiving a booking form email: of issues such as; minibus regulations; the legal responsi- [email protected] Urban Rock BRYCS 2002 Urban Rock British Regional Youth Climbing Series is a na- new schedule for this year’s series with the regional rounds tionwide for 7-15 year olds, consisting taking place on 7th, 14th and 28th September, and the of three regional rounds and culminating in a National final. National final on 12th October. The age qualifying date is Last year saw over 480 young climbers inspire and astound 31st August 2002. Application forms will be available from spectators with their tenacity and determination. There is a the BMC office and website in June. Venues (The final will be in Leeds) * to be confirmed. ** Round 2 in the NE & Lake District area will be held on the 21st September.

Area Round 1 Round 2 Round 3 Northwest Marple, Rope Race Preston, West View Liverpool, Awesome Walls Round 2 Midlands Birmingham, Rockface Leicester, Leas Wall Warwick, Bear Rock NE & Lake District Newton Aycliffe* Kendal** Keswick* Peak Sheffield, The Foundry Nottingham, Climbing Centre Sheffield, The Edge Southwest Bristol, Undercover Rock* Gloucester, Warehouse WICC* Scotland North Inverness, Climb Caledonian Inverness, Climb Caledonian Glenmore Lodge Scotland South Edinburgh, Alien Rock Falkirk, Hadrian’s Wall Glasgow, Climbing Centre Wales SW Bristol, Undercover Rock* Gloucester, Warehouse WICC* Yorkshire & Humberside Huddersfield, Sports Centre Hull, Rock City Leeds, Leeds Wall London & Southeast London, Mile End Amersham London, The Castle N. Wales The Beacon* Plas-Y-Brenin* Anglsey, Indefatigable Wall*

CLASSIFIED COURSES & ACTIVITIES ISSUE 26 - SUMMER 2002 Dallum Outdoor Training Centre ADVERTISING RATES: Gateway to the Lakes Tel: 015395 62437 Display: £22 per single column cm (min 3cm). A choice of 5 courses, which attract primarily highly motivated, mature students and combine skills Lineage: £18 for 15 words (min) additional 5 words £5. development, National Governing Body Awards and education. 2 days per week for 34 weeks. (All Prices Exclude VAT) ● Intensive Outdoor Development ● Access to Higher Education Cheques and orders to: ● Professional Development Certificate for the Outdoor Industry GreenShires Publishing, Telford Way, Kettering, Northants NN16 8UN ● Weekend Special (choice of land based or water based – one weekend per month) For further information please contact Paula or Jane on ● Development Training (16 days leading key speakers/tutors) Tel: 01536 382558/553 or Fax: 01536 382501. ● Open Canoe, Sea/Inland kayak, Winter Skills Expeditions Email: [email protected] Course Fees £350 (£250 if booked before 21st June). FREE to unemployed. Courses start early September 2002. COURSES & ACTIVITIES All courses concentrate on skills and coaching development & NGB awards and are typically 70% practical. MLTB Mountain Leadership Awards & Single Pitch Awards. BCU 1-5 Star & Coaching Awards all levels (Kayak, Open & Sea). NCA Cave Leadership Awards. FIRST AID REC First Aid for MOUNTAINEERS & INSTRUCTORS HEALTH &SAFETY EXECUTIVE REGD. Andy Sherriff PROVIDER OF FIRST AID TRAINING DALES Ventures /APEX Training Recognised by the MLTB (ML, SPSA, MIA, MIC, EML) We provide specialist skills training and assessment courses: • MLTB ML and SPA. • NCA Cave Leader and Cave Instructor Also adventure activities for individuals and groups of all ages and ability levels. Fun, exciting activity session and / or BOF, RYA, BCU, IRATA, BASI specialist skills training ..... the choice is yours. We can even tailor make activities to suit your needs. Also: Advanced Immediate Care & Caving – Beginners taster sessions – Advances specialist self rescue courses – Guided Classic trips. Mountain activities – Hill walking; Scrambling; Mountaineering; Rock climbing. Expedition Medical Care Courses Multi-Activity Courses – Tailor made to suit – why not call us? Based in Ingleton between The Yorkshire Dales and The Lakeland Fells we are easily able to access a wide variety of caves, crags, Leading The Way Towards Quality Remote Emergency Care hills and mountains in both areas. All activities are lead by fully qualified instructors. Contact: Tony Flanagan [DALES Ventures / Apex Training], Ffrancon, Thornton-in-Lonsdale, Ingleton, Nyth yr Hebog, Llandyrnog, Denbigh, LL16 4HB Carnforth, N Yorkshire, LA6 3PB. Tel 015242 41210 email: [email protected] Tel/Fax: 01824 790195 [email protected] FIRST AID COURSES – All levels, all email: http://www.mtn.co.uk/sherriff areas for the outdoors. Tel: 01298 85688/07931 360328. [email protected] [email protected] www.hfpa.dircon.co.uk BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26 5 5

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LAST THOUGHTS

and suddenly remembered our telephone conversation in London. John had calmly remarked: “You’ll probably need a waterproof.” We made our way slowly out of the foothills and breathed in the rich air of the countryside. Dung steamed in the blazing sun, and butterflies flitted amongst the rough grass. We passed some cows grazing by a stream. It seemed that the whole world was alive, from the gigantic clouds scudding over the tops around us, to the flies dancing a jig on my nose. It put me in such a great mood that I even forgot how ridiculous the venture was. My bag pulled hard on my shoulders, and I remarked that we had done well to leave the axes and crampons behind. John had argued that we should take them as a precaution, until I pointed out that we did not know how to use them, and would probably just end up injuring ourselves. I proved my point quite con- vincingly when I lashed the devices to my summer walking boots, only to discover that they slipped off at the first step, to be left dangling like some prototype medieval shoe weapon. They were bloody useless. The mountain looked dangerous enough without adding bizarre weaponry to the cocktail of hazards we would have to face. Higher, the path steepened, until we were working our way along precipitous ledges that shelved off to even steeper rock below. A mad wind whistled through a vast cleft in the granite walls above us, whipping thick swirls of mist across the border into Switzerland. High above us, perched atop a gigantic gendarmed ridge like a huge eagle’s nest, was the THE MATTERHORN AFFAIR

woke at 4am with a strange feeling. Something was FALLING IN LOVE WITH THE wrong, and then I remembered what it was. I was some- MOUNTAINS, BY TOM POVEY Iwhere high in foothills of the Italian Alps, cramped into the back of a rusting Maestro van with a man I barely knew. Carrel Hut. I looked up at our goal. It was fortified on all Worse still, a numbing cold had crept through the thin layer sides by vertical flanks of icy stone. It had all the absurdity of my inadequate sleeping bag, and my limbs resembled a of a child’s drawing of some impossible place, and I prayed collection of long white tubers. I wondered for a moment if that John, recognising the evident absurdity of our predica- in some hideous mistake I had ended up on a mortuary ment, would see reason and call retreat. We climbed up- slab, but then the aching cold in my head told me that ward, and he was as jaunty as ever. At the hut we realised we had forgotten to bring water, and I lowered John on a unfortunately I had not. I was horribly alive. If I was to rope down an ice cliff until he returned, smiling, with a hel- endure suffering like this I was certain it would not be alone. met full of ice. We were being watched by a bemused Italian I fumbled at a fluorescent tube. It flashed into life and illu- mountain guide, who, on discovering we were English, burst minated the stark white walls. I had expected to find my into fits of laughter and promptly disappeared inside. Our companion in similar agony, probably contorted in some tea was gritty, but good. complicated effort known by mountaineers to ensure sur- The room was full of life. I lay in darkness, and listened to vival in such doubtful circumstances. Instead I was con- the bump bump of mountaineers packing bags full of things fronted with a man who was enjoying the sleep of the just. that mountaineers pack into bags. I did not feel rested. I My heart sank. looked at my watch. It was only 4 am. I wondered what was When the sun rose it warmed the van and breathed life wrong. I shouldered John into life and he muttered some- back into my parched limbs. Drinking coffee, I stared up at thing about an early start, then promptly fell asleep. I woke the Matterhorn. We were, as we had hoped when we pulled him up again, and asked him to explain why twenty or so up beside a river late the previous night, near the town of unnaturally healthy looking climbers had decided to get out Chervinia, on the Italian side of the mountain. It was noth- of warm beds, and walk into the night. ing less than a glorious spot to wake up. So impressive was I was exhausted and my head was pounding. My handker- the architecture of the valley, that it was 10am before the chief, which was stored in my inner pair of trousers, had sun had hit the van. We were surrounded on all sides by the frozen several hours before, and now mucus ran freely onto snarled teeth of mountains, protruding from pale gum-like my lapel, where it also immediately solidified. I made a glaciers, and rising higher than any mountains I had seen. I mental note to remind John there had been no mention of looked up at the Matterhorn, sipped my coffee, and sagely frozen mucus. I scrabbled on all fours up a dangerously remarked that it looked like a good long day of climbing. steep slab, the hundredth of the day, and suddenly realised “It’s three days actually.” this one was different to the others. It was the last, and “What do you mean?” above me was only air. The summit was just large enough “Well, it’s three days of climbing.” for luncheon, and we spread out all the food we had on my “So you want to sleep up there?” new waterproof. I decided to sit in Italy, whilst John chose It suddenly dawned on me that my friend was a lunatic. I Switzerland. Undisturbed at our table for almost two hours, had failed to realise this when he had invited me to join him we savoured the dramatic surroundings and I realised that for this climb, and had assured me that neither experience John had given me one of the greatest gifts of my life. It was nor equipment was necessary. I looked up at the mountain over lunch that I fell in love with the mountains. (TOP) The author on the Matterhorn. Credit: Povey collection 62 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 26

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