Photograph by Giovanni Giannoni Technology.” For more andthe onChanel Paris collections, see pages 6to9. kinetic Chanelshow, which played “Intimate motifagainst delicatelingerie thecyber thefusioncalled pieces, Talk about wearable tech. took inspiration from computer for wires graphics his anddigital Robo Chic Fashion. Beauty. Business. Collections The P aris special Paris Edition OCTOBER 5, 2016 WE ARE BOLD

WE ARE INNOVATORS

WE ARE

www.tefron.com OCTOBER 5, 2016 3

MEN’S Top 5 O’Shea Exit Spurs Questions Trending About Direction of Brioni on WWD.com ● The creative director joined Justin O’Shea “disconnected and inconsistent with the men’s wear firm in March. the identity of the brand. Kering has realized it is necessary to reflect on the By Luisa Zargani with contributions brand, work on a drastic repositioning from Jean E. Palmieri operation.” He also observed that O’Shea believed MILAN — Will Brioni be able to get back Brioni was a fashion brand and Pesci on track? admitted it was so in the Fifties and That was the question being asked fol- Sixties, “but not after that. For 40 years, lowing the abrupt departure Tuesday of from the Seventies onward, it was a the venerable Italian men’s wear brand’s men’s ready-to-wear luxury brand, creative director, Justin O’Shea, after hinging on craftsmanship, quality and only six months in an experiment that exclusive materials. You can’t modify 40 clearly didn’t work. years of history.” The company said “the strategy of Another industry observer said “this revitalization of Brioni that started at the is a dangerous situation for Brioni. In six beginning of this year is set to continue seasons, the company has overturned being implemented through a long-term what was normally accepted by Brioni plan aimed to further establish the brand customers and the exit of O’Shea belies as a leader in the luxury men’s wear a state of confusion. It’s the second time category.” in one year that the creative director has While Brioni chief executive officer been let go without a successor.” Gianluca Flore thanked O’Shea, whom Another executive, who also requested he had hand-picked for the role, no fur- anonymity, said “the first mistake was ther indications of future strategies were of parent company Kering Group’s rev- that O’Shea was promoting himself and Kim Kardashian revealed. The company did indicate that enues and “this should not be taken too the second was that the changes were at Paris the fall 2017 collection will be presented bad by investors.” Kering’s shares rose terrible.” He also questioned the change Fashion Week. to buyers at Brioni’s Milan showroom 3.2 percent Tuesday to close at 186.55 of Brioni’s logo, something that should from mid-November and will not be euros, or $208.94 at current exchange. not be taken lightly, he emphasized. shown on the runway. O’Shea was previously global fashion “O’Shea thought the Gothic lettering Brioni Parts Numerous sources said O’Shea was director at Mytheresa.com who while at belonged to Brioni, but it was only found abruptly fired while he was traveling in the e-tailer was known for wearing Bri- in the Rome store in the Seventies and Ways With Paris, with observers speculating the oni suits. He was appointed the brand’s had been ruled out. It has nothing to do reason was that the changes he initiated creative director in March, succeeding with Brioni, Gothic is Kanye West.” Justin O’Shea were not in sync with the brand. The Brendan Mullane. His arrival raised some The executive also lamented the intro- ● O'Shea had joined the general consensus is that Brioni now eyebrows given his lack of design experi- duction of “a vulgar element that was men's wear firm in March. needs to take a look back to its history ence and that his focus at Mytheresa was distant from Brioni’s history and that instead of trying to push too hard to women’s wear, not men’s wear. did not reflect its affluent customers. ● become edgy and cool, as O’Shea did by Heavily tattooed and prone to the use Brioni remains a big brand but who is its Celebrities Rally S cott Joshua by S oare A/REX/ S hutterstock; signing the members of Metallica as the of expletives, O’Shea had candidly spo- target?” Around Kim Kardashian faces of the brand’s fall ad campaign. ken about wanting to create styles that He also questioned O’Shea’s posting After Robbery at Gunpoint “Virtually all men’s wear brands are would appeal to gangsters. Indicating his of a Brioni-branded coffin on Instagram At Paris Fashion Week under pressure, as suits appear to be eagerness to immediately shake things a few hours before his exit on Tuesday. a mature category. Brioni is no excep- up, he skipped the men’s shows in Milan “Coffins at such a difficult moment today ● Justin O’Shea Reacts tion — and possibly more so — as this in June and instead showed his first is disturbing, with all that is going on in To Brioni Departure brand was more exposed than most to effort for the house last July during Paris Paris and in the world. The decision to Russian consumers, who are still on the Couture Week. It was a see-now-buy-now [part ways with O’Shea] must have been ● Kim Kardashian Held Up back foot,” said Luca Solca, managing collection that was immediately available taken very quickly, if only a few hours director at Exane BNP Paribas. “Breaking in Brioni flagships, at the brand’s online earlier he was posting the coffin on At Gunpoint in Paris Hotel with tradition to inject fresh energy into store and at selected retailers. Instagram.” ● Azzedine Alaïa, the business — the same way as Gucci The collection relied on a heavy Interestingly, several high-end men’s and Saint Laurent very successfully emphasis on the Seventies à la “Shaft,” wear retailers in the U.S. had not even Surface Magazine did — hasn’t seemed to have worked at and WWD reported at the time that it been given the opportunity to view Host Dinner in Paris Brioni, at least so far. The risk is always “had a bit of a pimp vibe going on.” O’Shea’s first collection. F Carly Erickson/B by Chinsee; S taple George by Grunberg eugère; that of losing ‘traditional’ customers — to One men’s wear executive, who “They switched everything to women’s whom Metallica, for example, may have requested anonymity, said O’Shea’s couture week so we didn’t see it,” one appeared irksome — without gaining exit is “not surprising at all.” He’d been store said. NEWSMAKERS new ones. Justin’s departure may be the operating according to Kering’s fashion Another merchant agreed. “We didn’t beginning of a new attempt to relaunch model where designers are given “very see the collection. That’s the first thing This Week’s Most Brioni on a path to success.” expansive management autonomy in the that struck me when we went to Milan Talked About Names Daniele Alibrandi, luxury goods creation of the collections and the image for pre-collection. Justin was like the analyst at Intermonte, said “a change of the campaigns, but this fits a fashion invisible man. No one talked about the In Our Industry in the creative leadership of a fashion brand more, not a luxury brand.” O’Shea inspiration, the evolution, nothing. house is often a necessary step in order steered Brioni in such a different direc- The showroom was in disarray and we to transform stagnant brands and boost tion without successful results, he said. were expecting some new excitement, business results. It always brings some Francesco Pesci, a former Brioni ceo, but there was none of that. Plus, they risks especially when you go too far from said Flore was correct in going with the showed the line during women’s couture your roots. Justin O’Shea was a radically see-now-buy-now format, as it was in when there were no men’s buyers there. new figure, who liked to be called ‘the line with Brioni’s own history. “Brioni’s There was a massive disconnect.” anti-Gucci.’ Sometimes turning the page collections were made to order until The retailer believes that parting ways Justin O’Shea Joelle Grunberg pays off, sometimes not and this might the second half of the Fifties, when with former creative director Mullane have been the case.” department stores started asking for was a mistake. “He was so talented and Alibrandi underscored that Brioni different sizes, initiating ready-to-wear.” just getting into his stride,” the merchant accounts only for around 1.5 to 2 percent Pesci noted that O’Shea’s collection was said. “The shows were great, the product téphane F S téphane by Kardashian M edia/REX/ S hutterstock; and Penske A/REX/ S hutterstock was great. He had really turned the corner. The product and the craftsman- ship were just where they needed to be Indicating his eagerness to immediately shake and then they made the move to Justin. things up, O’Shea skipped the men’s shows in He’s cool, he has tattoos, but he has no Jeff Staple Anastasia Soare history at all in men’s wear. You’ve got Milan in June and showed his first effort for the to have someone with a legacy for such a luxury heritage men’s brand. Wow, what house during Paris Couture Week. a debacle.” ■ F Taub/B Kelly by S hea photographs O’ creativity ı productions ı logistics

BRANDART BRANDART usa italy www.brandart.it 6 East 74th Street 3rd Floor Via Andrea Costa, 19, 21052 New York NY 10021-USA [email protected] Busto Arsizio (VA)-italy +19173883186 +390331634392 OCTOBER 5, 2016 5

Business Well-known in Germany and Asia and Kenzo, Bulgari, Tag Heuer, Guerlain, Dom identifiable by its grooved sides, Rimowa Perignon and Sephora. still harbors “a lot of potential in the U.S. “By entrusting this family venture to the and the rest of Europe,” Arnault said. LVMH Group, we are guaranteeing a prom- LVMH Buys Rimowa For example, the brand operates only ising future to all Rimowa employees,” said four stores in America: New York, Miami, Morszeck, who has been with the company Boston and Los Angeles. 44 years. In June, it opened a unit on New Bond He expressed confidence in Alexandre Luggage Brand Street in London opposite Louis Vuitton, Arnault’s ability “to accelerate the develop- and later this year it will open a bou- ment of the business by my side.” tique on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré The company employs about 3,000 ● Bernard Arnault’s son Alexandre the founder, about two years ago, just to in Paris facing the Bristol hotel. people worldwide and produces mainly in introduce himself. Rimowa counts about 150 stores and is Germany, where artisans manually hammer is to become co-ceo of the An invitation to tour Rimowa’s head- expected to generate revenues this year into shape the aluminum cases. German luggage specialist. quarters — and production facilities in of more than 400 million euros, or $450 According to LVMH, the global luggage Germany, Czech Republic and Canada — million. In 1980, Rimowa’s revenues market has been growing about 5 percent By Miles socha with contributions from followed, and was reciprocated as Arnault were estimated at 3 million euros. It is a year for five years, fueled by the surge in luisa zargani guided Morszeck through Louis Vuitton’s understood the brand has outperformed Asian travelers. PARIS — Artist collaborations, digital fea- leather workshops in Asnières-sur-Seine, the luggage market over the last decade. The number of Chinese outbound trav- tures and a push into the U.S. are among near Paris, and in the Drôme region. It is the first German company to elers is expected to increase by almost 50 probable new growth avenues for elite Not long after, Morszeck proposed that be acquired by LVMH, parent of such percent over the next four years, according luggage maker Rimowa in the wake of its LVMH invest in the company, telling brands as Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, to the World Travel & Tourism Council.■ acquisition by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Arnault he had earned his trust and Vuitton. considered the French luxury group the Investors smiled on the deal, which val- best partner to help Rimowa reach its ues the German firm at 640 million euros, full potential. or $719 million. Shares in LVMH, which The transaction mirrors LVMH’s 2013 took an 80 percent stake in the famly-con- investment in Loro Piana, another fami- trolled luggage firm, rose 3 percent on ly-controlled firm. (Brothers Sergio and Tuesday to close at 156.60 euros, Pier Luigi Loro Piana continue to helm or $175.39. the Italian company and maintain a 20 The deal thrusts LVMH into the robust percent stake.) travel sector — and LVMH chairman and Arnault related that his father and other chief executive officer Bernard Arnault’s members of his family shared his enthu- 24-year-old son Alexandre into his first siasm for Rimowa, renowned for its sleek executive role. and lightweight suitcases and a string of He is to move to Cologne and become innovations and patents. co-chief executive officer alongside Dieter “I’m very passionate about the product Morszeck upon completion of the deal, itself, and I’m attracted to the fact that expected in January. Rimowa, like LVMH, is an entrepreneurial “It has all the values of LVMH — a strong business,” he explained. link to craftsmanship, quality and a strong Founded in 1898, Rimowa is credited link to innovation,” Alexandre Arnault with launching the first suitcases in alu- said. “We have the exact same DNA, the minum and polycarbonate, in 1937 and same values and the same spirit.” 2000, respectively. Four-wheel designs An engineering student, Arnault and waterproofing are other breakthroughs. recently completed his studies, including More recently it introduced a case a master’s degree in innovation at the with an electronic tag that links it to a elite Paris school Polytechnique. He also smartphone via Bluetooth, simplifying the studied computer science at Télécom check-in process. ParisTech. Arnault said further digital innovations, He spent half his time getting acclimated collaborations and new materials would to the family business, devoted mainly to fan Rimowa’s leadership. missions alongside Ian Rogers, LVMH’s While acknowledging the brand’s chief digital officer. Earlier this year, he popularity among the fashion crowd — as spent six months at Fendi with its ceo, anyone who’s waited at an airport carousel Pietro Beccari. during fashion weeks in Europe can attest The luxury scion recounted how his per- — he said “we are not going to become a sonal appreciation for Rimowa prompted fashion company. But we see this trend him to write to Morszeck, grandson of and we’re going to capitalize on it.” A Rimowa campaign image.

Retail do yoga, cycling, kickboxing. This is the real stuff. It’s performance along with style.” And equally appropriate to wear for car J. Crew Gets Active With New Balance pools, errands and the like, Drexler added. “It runs the gamut.” ● The partnership represents J. Crew, Drexler explained, needed a In addition to launching men’s in spring New Balance x J. Crew will occupy 150- to partner to launch active. “We did not have 2017, the collection will feature a new 200-square-foot areas in the stores, with J. Crew’s first foray into true the expertise to do this alone,” he said. “We cobranded logo, and additional patterns specially designed fixtures to set the shops performance activewear. have style sense and quality sense. But we and styles. apart from the rest of the store. “It will By david moin didn’t have the technical sense in getting it Of the New Balance sneakers sold at J. have its own small section, but it will be done. It’s really important for us to do it — Crew since 2005, many have been classic big enough to give it a good presence,” J. Crew is going the distance with New and to do it right.” styles from the brand’s archives; others Drexler said. Balance. The collection will be sold on the web were developed exclusively for J. Crew. The marketing shows Taryn Toomey, After selling the brand’s sneakers for 11 sites of both brands, as well as at 35 of J. “We’ve had a really strong, successful founder of The Class, an intense training years, J. Crew will launch its first active Crew’s 287 stores around the U.S. as well as relationship with New Balance working class geared to stretch one’s physical and collection in partnership with the Bos- two J. Crew stores abroad, in London and in on collaborations, exclusive sneakers and mental limits; Brazilian model and master ton-based company. Toronto’s Yorkdale Centre. New Balance x colors, etc. So it seemed to be a natural Muay Thai fighter Gracie Carvalho; Soul- The New Balance x J. Crew women’s J. Crew will also be sold at five New Balance opportunity to expand into the active busi- Cycle instructor Taye Johnson, and editor/ active collection will debut on Tuesday and flagships including two in New York, and ness,” Drexler said. runner Rachael Wang. expand to men’s active in spring 2017. one each in Boston, London and at a San Often the activewear sold at different The J. Crew Group, in turnaround mode, In activewear — among the few Francisco store opening mid-November. If stores appears similar in look. But Drexler has been open to new types of collabora- strong-performing categories in the anemic the collection sells well, J. Crew will roll it said the new activewear collection will be tions, including recently wholesaling the J. apparel sector — J. Crew would appear to out to more of its stores, though there is no “very J. Crew in spirit, very cohesive. It’s Crew and Madewell brands to Nordstrom. be a Johnny-come-lately. But the retailer’s specific plan beyond the initial 37 at not about just a black pant or black top. It’s The retailer has had “small collaborations” chairman and chief executive officer Millard this point. about color, stripes. We think it brings a with, for example, Sophia Webster shoes “Mickey” Drexler had a different perspec- The cobranded collection has 20 styles new dimension to the business.” and Drakes of London men’s wear, though tive. “I don’t think the party is over yet. including sneakers, pants, sports bras, Drexler said the New Balance partnership New Balance represents “the largest we This is here to stay,” he said, speaking to the shorts, tank tops, short and long-sleeved marks the first time J. Crew has sold true have done,” said a spokeswoman. “We’ve steady active trend. “We feel we can make tops, jackets and pullovers. Prices are gen- performance activewear from a technical, taken a strong position from an inventory a difference.” erally in the $15 to $200 range. fabric, engineering point of view. “You can point of view.”■ OCTOBER 5, 2016 6 The Reviews

Chanel At Saturday’s Nina Ricci show in an upper- level space at the Grand Palais, one entered to find the view to the floor obscured by huge partitions. Their purpose: to hide the set under construction below. On Tuesday morning, the big reveal: Welcome to the high-tech world of Karl Lagerfeld’s mandate and Alain Wertheimer’s wallet. Lagerfeld had the space transformed into an enormous data center, all cables, cords, grids and industrial-tape markings. “It’s something of our time,” he said during a preview. “The whole thing is like booting up, wiring up.” While one could argue that Lagerfeld is in a constant state of wiring up — Lord knows, he certainly never powers down — for spring he embraced the concept with literal cheekiness, taking inspiration from tech wires and digital graphics. Lest he make a straightforward foray into wearable tech of the Rue Cambon sort, he played the cyber- chic motif against delicate lingerie pieces, christening the show — what else? — “Inti- mate Technology.” The pairing worked on many levels. The fusion of classicism and forward motion is what Lagerfeld’s Chanel all about. And should one wonder about its cross-general appeal, he or she need only glimpse the cadre of clients who turn out at every show, this one included, some working head-to- toe runway, some incorporating a soupçon of street (or faux-street), all flashing their regalia and radiating pride of ownership with every selfie. Lagerfeld used his theme as a ruse for an almost manic pattern display. That is, after he opened with purist black and white — on robots. If anything is possible in the digital world, the same can be said of Chanel when it comes to materials development, starting with any intensity of tweed. He took the primary brights of cable cords and worked them every which way, from confetti to gridlike constructions. As for his prints: laser optics so dizzying they should come with a warning label. The brilliance was in the juxtaposition with lingerie. Though Lagerfeld loathes any suggestion of retro, he focused on a cosmetic pink range that was standard for unmentionables in the Twenties and Thirties. These colored the gentlest under- pinnings — slips, camis, lace shorts — as well as the occasional robe and what was once called a bed jacket. They registered against the tweeds with delightful dissonance, the collection’s primary concept. Within that, Fall there were countless ideas beginning with the suit silhouette — the classic suit; versions Collections with A-line skirts, box-pleated skirts, straight skirts zipped up the front; jackets short, Paris long, constructed, cardigan-cut; the wide-leg pantsuit. And there were suggestions for Chanel sportif: off-beat polish in tweed jacket over pink silk slips or pants frilled above the ankles; mixed pattern madcap in chunky sweater over schoolgirl tweed skirt. Yes, there was even a moment or two of calm. Case in point, of all things, a loose denim jacket over pink slip and webby hose. Just Lagerfeld’s way of powering down. — Bridget Foley OCTOBER 5, 2016 7

The

Chanel Photograph by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Photograph Reviews OCTOBER 5, 2016 8

Fall Kenzo Collections Victor Alfaro Paris

Kenzo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim threw you off the scent of their spring Kenzo collection with its set. Guests entered the Cité de l’architec- ture et du patrimoine to see a lot more human anatomy than they bargained for, as living statues with real, non-model bodies posed in the buff like the antiquities surrounding them. The sight of enormous breasts cast in green paint, bare male genitalia, an amputee and women made to look like 15-foot-tall statues triggered some shock, awe and a few giggles, though it did nothing to set up for the show’s theme: Studio 54. Before you roll your eyes at what is cer- tainly a contender for title of most unorig- inal inspiration, Leon and Lim’s treatment of the holy grail of disco was well done, not too literal, not too retro, not too over the top — but close on all accounts. What’s more, notes stated that the collection’s starting point was a hard-to-turn-down invitation to work with the archive of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, known for his heady, erotically charged work from the Studio 54 era. Additionally, Kenzo Takada showed a collection at the club in 1977. Grace Jones performed. Jerry Hall walked. It must’ve been fabulous. Despite the disco spirit, the lineup featured a thick stock of day clothes. Workwear was everywhere, as it has been all season, and kept the Seventies-Eight- ies mood of big, rounded shoulders and Vanessa Seward narrow bottoms current. A long, white utility parka brought a gold minidress down to earth. A denim shirt with double, slanted utility pockets at the bust tucked into high-waisted cropped jeans looked very now. Things got wilder as the palette Facetasm progressed from neutral blue, olive and khaki into flashier fare. A model wearing a shiny red tracksuit with a blouson top and tapered jogger pants and black sequined fanny pack looked like the second coming of Jones. Bra tops were layered over white shirts with pointed sleeves and slick black pencil skirts. There were tank dresses cov- fastened with ties, leaving a deep V of skin open over long, neo-mourning skirts, and ered in giant paillettes and mini slips with on the back. Victor Alfaro a raw white denim corset vest cut with a diagonal panels of different shiny embel- Skirts, pants and a cape jacket took Victor Alfaro continued with the edgier, racer back and zip front that brought a lishments — paillettes and sequined fringe. flares to the extreme, transforming them more casual attitude he experimented with tough romance to the flowing maxidresses. It wasn’t subtle but it was controlled. into giant rufflelike shapes that were for pre-fall. Departing from the high polish Getting in touch with the street suits Alfa- What Lim and Leon did with Lopez’s integral parts of the garments themselves, he had been dealing in for several seasons ro’s natural sophistication. — J.I. work highlighted how visually compelling rather than mere embellishments. Bright was a risk, but it paid off. “Every one of my it still is today. Jackets, skirts and T-shirt check patterns were used on shirt dresses stores got it,” he said of the feedback he dresses were printed with collages of his with the same open-back treatment, while received for resort. Vanessa Seward famous Polaroids of famous models (Pat plastified raincoat material was pleated He pushed it a bit further for spring, Vanessa Seward’s spring collection Cleveland, Hall) and their seductive red into a midlength skirt and matching biker taking a strong, graphic position with could’ve been lifted from a postcard. The lips in crystal blue bathwater. The colors, jacket to be worn tucked in. black-and-white looks and abstract prints lineup epitomized idyllic French summer expressive faces and mood deserved to be The main print in the collection, big done on long dresses with a Victori- style with chambray button-downs with immortalized on a T-shirt. — Jessica Iredale red flowers on a black background, was an-meets-modern street vibe. The slipdress white collars and cuffs worn with denim a kooky contrast with check panels on over T-shirt look he witnessed all over culottes that snapped up the side. A dresses and jackets, and made even more New York City this summer stuck with blue sweater tipped in red and white felt Facetasm of a statement on the front of a sweatshirt. him. “It looked so cool but it’s never the sweetly patriotic tucked into girl-next-door Tokyo-based designer Hiromichi Ochiai’s Its back was completely covered in black perfect neckline,” he said, His solution ivory denim shorts. There was a heart- first full women’s collection for Facetasm feathers — as if to capture the wind on a was to lower the neckline to a jumper-style printed red and white shirtdress, a short, showed that his juxtaposition of tailoring skateboard, the designer said. on long viscose georgette dresses with pink and purple striped peasant dress with sportswear references can work for a Ochiai claims his designs are inspired asymmetric ruffles and raw hems and and a long white crotchet, body-skimming female audience, too. by Tokyo, and he wants to show people layer them over a devoré T-shirt, creating caftan. It was unquestionably wearable Many of the designs, in classic men’s that his hometown is not just about geishas a nifty dress/skirt hybrid. One of Alfaro’s and charming, almost too much so. A suc- tailoring fabrics, appeared classic from and Japanimation. He certainly teaches the core concepts is pieces that can be easily cession of Little Miss Perfects, the models the front; it was only when viewed from onlooker never to judge a book — or in this layered to create a “system.” Here, he toted circular basket bags, wore burnished behind that their subversive nature instance an item of clothing — by its cover. applied that to sporty bodysuits with tawny clogs and neck scarves knotted to

became apparent — they crossed over and — Alex Wynne corset seaming at the waist that were worn the side. — J.I. Giannoni Giovanni by & Joe photographs and Paul Redemption S eward, Vanessa Kenzo, OCTOBER 5, 2016 9

Marimekko

Zadig & Voltaire

Paul & Joe

Redemption

Redemption Redemption’s creative director Gabriele Zadig & Voltaire “Bebe” Moratti is opening up the musically “It’s like Coachella,” said one observer inspired young brand in more ways than of the Zadig & Voltaire lineup, presented one. His collection for spring, which refer- Marimekko Paul & Joe on a group of in-character models who enced “A Tale of Two Cities” — New York Is Finland the coolest country on Earth? Paul & Joe took advantage of the recent stood atop an elevated lawn in the court- and Los Angeles, that is, in the Seventies Sitting in the Finnish embassy in Paris, closure of the major road running along yard of a hôtel particulier in Paris’ 16th and Sixties, respectively — offered up more watching models parade in Marimekko’s the Right Bank of the Seine to stage its arrondissement, their python Candide color and romanticism than it has before, spring collection to the strains of a live jazz show in a riverside tent. handbags filled with daisies or placed on perhaps as the brand expands to please its band, you might be forgiven for thinking so. This decision by Paris Mayor Anne swings hanging from a tree. growing following. Creative director Anna Teurnell said Hidalgo has caused gridlock in the cen- For the sprawling collection, Cecilia Bön- Dramatic floral prints covered flouncy, ruf- she was trying to pinpoint the essence of tral city and proved a headache for ström summoned the attitude of perennial fled black gowns both long and supershort, Scandinavian design by presenting the showgoers. Paris Fashion Week orga- rock icons like Iggy Pop, Mick Jagger, Jimi and there was a colorful stripy motif, too, collection in the space created by Finnish nizers say they are looking to add new Hendrix and David Bowie, even paying used on a layered maxiskirt, for example. A architect Veli Paatela, which features inte- venues next season to lessen the time homage to the white suit worn by Jagger flimsy sky blue gown with lace bell sleeves rior design touches like Alvar Aalto lamps. spent in traffic. for his wedding to Bianca in 1971 — revis- played out like a pre-Raphaelite fancy. “It portrays the lifestyle but also pro- In the meantime, there is always the ited in a grainy gold and sand jacquard The romantic inspiration was also poses something that I don’t think looks risk of arriving late. A couple of dozen — as part of a new Zadig & Voltaire capsule apparent in the military embroideries of like everything else. It becomes something people were turned away from the Paul wedding line. (The update on the brand’s several designs, including a tailcoat with to me that is unique and stands out in the & Joe show just before it was due to start Optimiste bag, meanwhile — the Optimiste an exaggerated train that trailed across world, and I guess that’s why Scandinavian and had to watch the proceedings from an Plus — sported a studded shoulder strap the ground, or on several leather corsets. design is so appreciated. And what is that? embankment above the venue. reminiscent of a guitar strap.) Such designs were where the splicing It’s something functional, it’s something An outdoor show was a nice idea for a Riding the festival vibe were patchwork between whimsy and punk were most long-lasting, qualitative,” she said. collection that was all about loose, easy denim, retro-flower-print jumpsuits with obvious, and there was still plenty of the In that spirit, the line featured pieces volumes. A tomboy silhouette prevailed, fringed bib fronts, frilly sleeved maxi label’s overt sexiness — even the most from Marimekko’s archives mixed with with ultrabaggy pants and oversize jack- blouses, slim sparkly cropped pants and flowing gowns had deep necklines that new designs. As if to prove Teurnell’s ets, shirts and tops. Even the dresses multicolored dresses worn under summer left little to the imagination — for Redemp- point, you couldn’t tell which was which. were cut in boxy shapes, like a blue-and- furs sprayed with colored stripes. The tion’s die-hard fans. Two things stood out: The amount of orange striped sundress worn over a ath-leisure trend was alive and well in the For them too, there was lots of black black, either as a single color or in bold black T-shirt. fluid pants with tuxedo stripes, Neoprene leather, several revealing sequin-embroi- monochrome prints, and the hemlines Yet the outfits retained a cute sexiness. sweatshirts and hoodies and pastel leather dered gowns and pantsuits — this worked splicing curved panels, in the front and A tiered camisole top in a mix of floral sweatpants. well as a glittering pale pink tuxedo ensem- back, with straight lines on the sides. The and striped fabrics was worn with baby Bönström winked to the work of artist ble — and of course plenty of rock attitude. rest of the color palette had a Seventies blue cargo pants, while a crisp dress in Urs Fischer with witty fruit T-shirts (think In one of the final gowns, Moratti paired tinge, with shades like mustard, pink, pale gray and white maxi stripes was cut Voltaire’s face covered with a slice of black lace with panels of floral print in a khaki, purple and brown. low and tied at the front. Pink sequined lemon), while a cast of characters includ- look that verged on Gothic chic, but in a Vintage lovers will no doubt snap up flowers on a greige coat and button-front ing skeleton magicians, pirates and fairy- good way. the looks, but they worked equally well dress added a dash of whimsy. tale tigers — embroidered onto the line’s There was no doubt Moratti softened the as modern propositions. Evergreens like There was one upside to watching the denim jumpsuits, silk dresses, leather bik- message just a bit this season. A little more a khaki parka, black leather coat or beige display from a distance — it made for a ers and Pilar boots — were the handiwork subtlety in the mix becomes his creations trench should find room in plenty of ward- quicker dash to get to the next venue. of celebrated Brooklyn-based tattoo artist well. — Alex Wynne robes. — Joelle Diderich — J.D. Virginia Elwood. — Katya Foreman

OCTOBER 5, 2016 11

retail lower level directly across from the toy department. The TriBeCa store offers a large fresh offering of food, including produce and grab-and-go meals. “It’s nearly a full food Target-ing TriBeCa assortment. We did our homework to know what the guest really wants,” Roman said, referring to consumer research. In lieu of multiple dressing rooms — the With a Flexible Approach retailer wanted space to display products — Target opted for two changing rooms ● Smaller stores allow the inside red-painted corrugated metal boxes retailer to open in downtown that can be moved around the store. “Besides, this customer doesn’t have much urban locations and college time to try things on,” Roman said. campuses. The women’s shoe area surrounds the dressing rooms. A CVS pharmacy is By Sharon Edelson located at the back of the lower level near NEW YORK — Target Corp.’s flexible health and beauty. format stores are allowing the retailer to There are fewer cash registers than a expand its sights and sites. full-size unit and the registers themselves Downsized and customized, the units are smaller. Target is testing for the first have been muscling their way into neigh- time a queuing system with four lanes. borhoods the retailer previously wasn’t Available cash register numbers are able to squeeze into with its full-size posted on overhead screens. The number stores. Target’s first flexible format store of self-checkout stations — there are now in Manhattan, a 45,000-square-foot unit, eight — can be expanded along the front is scheduled to open today at 255 Green- wall, if necessary. wich Street in TriBeCa. “About 25 percent to 30 percent of our With some of its shelves still empty, the guests use self-checkout,” Roman said. retailer on Tuesday was already talking Target is testing new fixtures in apparel about opening more units in Manhattan. and home and enhanced displays in “We’re working hard and looking at The lower level of Target’s health and beauty and electronics and all areas of the city,” said Tony Roman, TriBeCa store features the entertainment. Target’s group vice president of New York, new Cat & Jack collection. The store’s exterior has the retailer’s New Jersey and Connecticut. “ The smaller signature red bull’s-eye logos, while the footprint allows us to be more nimble. said. “We looked at who lives and works Peter McGuinness, Chobani’s chief interior design hints at the style of modern We can do two-level stores or three-level here.” marketing officer, said the café will serve Scandinavian interiors with dark vertical stores and we can go in and open them For example, Who What Wear’s a black breakfast, lunch and light dinner as planks of wood as accents, exposed ceil- more quickly.” high-low dress with flowers is $34.99; well as made-to-order coffee drinks and ings and the concrete floor stenciled over The TriBeCa Target features all the req- black faux leather skirt, $32.99; navy dress yogurt blends. for a tiled look. uisite categories in about a third the space with neck tie, $34.99, and Mossimo mili- “We want to deliver the same Tar- Target has been aggressively opening of one of its full-line stores. But Roman tary jacket, $34.99. get experience in smaller spaces,” said stores in Brooklyn and Queens in the last stressed that the unit isn’t just a shrunken A customization bar on the main floor Roman, adding that he can’t think of year. The retailer plans to invest nearly $1 version of a full-size Target. allows consumers to design and personal- anything the store doesn’t have. billion in store openings this year, including The new store’s hours of operation are ize their own T-shirts for $15 and sweat- There are differences, natch. The three smaller units bowing today at Ritten- Monday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 11 shirts, $25. “This is the first time we’re home collection, which begins on the house Square in Philadelphia, Penn State, p.m. “It’s a bit aggressive,” Roman said. doing this,” Roman said. “It’s a test. The main floor and continues on the lower State College, Pa., and Cupertino, Calif. “We want it to be aggressive.” shirts print while they’re shopping.” level, focuses on products for apart- Flexible format stores will open in Clos- The store makes a strong case for style, A Chobani Café, another first for Target ments rather than homes with Thresh- ter, N.J., and Elmont, N.Y., on Nov. 2 and with Cat & Jack, Target’s new children’s and the yogurt manufacturer, is a large, old, Todd Oldham’s Hand Made Modern Nov. 30, respectively. A unit at the Fulton wear brand, and Who What Wear, its most airy space six steps up from the main and Target’s new Pillowfort collection Mall in downtown Brooklyn is slated to fashion-forward women’s apparel collection, floor. With copper lighting, a communal for kids. Electronics offers smaller TVs bow in December. A smaller-format store is displayed at the front, along with Mossimo. bar, leather stools and ottomans, and blue — no big screen models — and wearable set to open in 2018 in the East Village. “There are a lot of trend pieces here and white tile accents, the café is consid- technology. With today’s openings, Target operates rather than essentials,” a spokeswoman ered a test kitchen by Chobani. More Cat & Jack is found on the 27 flexible format stores. ■

accessories Zenith, Range Rover Unveil Special-Edition Watch ● The timepieces retail for The El Primero Range Rover Zenith has only 38 points of sale in the $7,700 and will be sold through Special Edition watch. U.S. and is viewed as a “niche brand” here, Zenith’s distribution network. he said, and that’s intentional. “We may eventually open seven to 10 more stores, By Jean E. Palmieri but no more than 50.” He said since the watches were offered The year was 1969. Neil Armstrong took for sale last Thursday, the “reaction has mankind’s first steps on the moon and been phenomenal.” the hapless New York Mets won the World This comes in spite of the tough times Series. It was also the year when Zenith at retail worldwide. “The world is full of watches introduced its first El Primero political insecurity, the fear of terrorism chronograph and British automotive and people are afraid,” Biver said. “All of brand Land Rover unveiled the prototype this brings a bad mood to customers and for the its luxury off-road vehicle, the so he refrains from buying.” Range Rover. He said within the Swiss watch industry, On Monday night, Jean-Claude Biver, sales are currently down 10 percent from president of the LVMH Moët Hennessy last year, which is not great, yet better than Louis Vuitton Watch Division, joined The watch has an aluminum body, a with Land Rover,” said McGovern. “It’s many other industries. Gerry McGovern, chief design officer of nod to the chassis of the car, and a matte what makes the product more desirable. “But I think we will all find a solution Land Rover, in New York to celebrate a black ceramised case. Offered in ivory or Nobody needs luxury vehicles or watches, and 2017-18 will be better and stronger,” he newly formed partnership between the navy with bands that use the same leather but if we create something unique, people said. “We’re going through a consolidation two companies. as the cars, the watches are lightweight, will want them.” of the luxury market, and that’s actually The executives cohosted an event water-resistant and have a ratcheted crown Biver said that since partnering with better for the long term.” where they unveiled the El Primero Range and black round pushers. The sapphire Land Rover, Zenith has discovered that Monday’s event at the New York Edition Rover Special Edition watch, which will case back is co-branded and an oscillating the “two brands are complementary. Both hotel, near Madison Square Park, also fea- retail for $7,700 and be sold through weight sports both the Zenith and Range are exclusive, prestigious, have the same tured a live art performance from Carlito Zenith’s distribution network around the Rover logos. customer base and the perception of both Dalceggio, who was painting on pieces of a

world. “Design is an important discipline is very high.” Range Rover during the party. ■ Dean/REX/ S hutterstock F rancis by photograph Target OCTOBER 5, 2016 12

The Markets Lacoste to Be Apparel Provider of Presidents Cup

● The partnership will outfit the U.S. and International teams, anything is going really well. The general include a commercial caddies, the PGA and Presidents Cup staff environment hasn’t evolved positively and others in a cobranded collection that and people aren’t thinking of shopping cobranded collection is being created especially for the tourna- and spending money.” that will be offered next year. ment. The players will wear outfits that are Even outside the U.S., “many tensions” adorned with just the Presidents Cup logo. exist and a strong dollar has cut down By Jean E. Palmieri The cobranded collection will be avail- on tourism. “The general environment is NEW YORK — Does the name Simone able at the tournament in a 20,000-square- downtrending and we don’t foresee signif- Thion de la Chaume ring a bell? foot retail space, as well as in Lacoste icant change,” she said. But she’s hopeful Catherine Lacoste with her US Open Golf Championship trophy in 1967. She was the wife of Rene Lacoste, the boutiques and through wholesale partners. that after the U.S. election in November, legendary tennis player and founder of During the event, Lacoste will also host a the situation may begin to improve. A modern-day the French brand famous for its crocodile Presidents Cup Fan Experience event in Outside forces notwithstanding, Lacoste look at Chantaco. logo. De la Chaume was an avid golfer, as the Oculus at the Westfield World Trade has taken steps to “significantly” decrease was their daughter, Catherine Lacoste, Center, where it recently opened a store. its wholesale distribution, cutting its expo- who won the U.S. Open tournament in Grunfeld said the deal with the Presi- sure at its primary retail partners from 1967 as an amateur and was nicknamed dents Cup, which will be held in the U.S. 330 to 150 doors and working with other Kid Crocodile. three times and Asia twice over the course retailers to cut down on promotions. It’s this legacy in the world of golf that of the contract, is “a great fit and a very “But in our boutiques and outlets,” she current Lacoste chief executive officer Joelle natural match.” She said Lacoste has a said, “we’re seeing single-digit growth Grunberg is hoping to mine with a deal with “strong business in Asia,” where golf is so we know the work we’re doing on the PGA Tour that will be unveiled today. extremely popular. refreshing our stores, investing in recruit- Lacoste has signed on to be the official She said the economic impact of the ing, coaching and training our staff is apparel provider of the PGA’s Presidents Presidents Cup collection will be import- paying off.” Cup tournament, starting with the 2017 ant, but it’s not the primary reason for the Lacoste has more than $500 million in event at Liberty National Golf Club in partnership. “It’s really being driven by retail sales in the U.S., which is its larg- Jersey City, N.J. Lacoste will sponsor the marketing and branding to gain visibility,” est market. Overall, the brand, which is biannual tournament through 2025 and she said. “We don’t make technical product owned by Maus Frères SA, had sales of the deal is part of Grunfeld’s strategy to like Nike or Adidas, but we want to position 1.95 billion euros, or $2.2 billion at current tended to change and consistency was lost. reinforce the company’s sports legacy Lacoste as an elegant sports brand.” exchange, in 2015. In an effort to streamline the process as a through partnerships and sponsorships. In the past year, Grunfeld, whose back- The Presidents Cup partnership is whole, not only for the teams but also for “Since I arrived here in June of last year, ground includes stints at Ernst & Young, seen as a boon for the PGA as well. Matt the event, as well as achieve a sponsorship we’ve been rethinking our strategy for the Deloitte McKinsey & Co. and Celio Group, Kamienski, vice president of the PGA Tour relationship that would be mutually bene- U.S. market,” Grunfeld said in an inter- has implemented an aggressive strategy to and executive director of The Presidents ficial to the event and partner, we decided view in her Madison Avenue office. “We reduce the company’s retail exposure and Cup, said: “We’ve had various apparel to search for an apparel provider that have a very strong heritage in golf and the wholesale distribution in North America. providers since the inception of the event, could supply all of our needs and help us Presidents Cup is a great opportunity to She said the strategy is “going as with every provider since 2009 being tied achieve our goals in growing the event.” increase our visibility here.” planned” so far. “In the retail envi- to the captains and relationships they had. The event will be held from Sept. 25 to As part of the partnership, Lacoste will ronment we’re in now, it’s hard to say As captains changed, apparel suppliers Oct. 1, 2017, at Liberty National. ■

business New Water Capital Buys Worth Collection

● The private equity firm learned about Worth, the more interested Looks from points are a little lower.” views the luxury direct- it became in the company. “We were Worth New Other areas New Water is considering intrigued with the Worth business model,” York for fall. include “basic things like the casual and sales company as a growth he said. “It has a very strong management ath-leisure businesses.” opportunity. team. Worth made some good investments Asked whether freestanding stores are in technology. When you look at today’s in the offing, Disa said, “Never say never. By Sharon Edelson omnichannel approach, people are looking They have five outlet stores, which are New Water Capital has acquired the to have a direct relationship. The company used for clearance. We’ll look into stores Worth Collection, which operates Worth is positioned for substantial growth. This is and different opportunities and what New York and W by Worth, from L a growth strategy, it’s a well-run, well-man- makes sense for our consumer.” Catterton. aged business. We’ll develop each chan- Disa said New Water’s skills are “aligned Terms of the transaction were not nel’s strategy for future growth.” with retail consumer products.” He was disclosed. Worth was founded 25 years ago by president of Casual Corner, senior vice Worth, a direct-to-consumer luxury fash- Caroline Davis, Richard Kaplan and Jay president of merchandise planning at Foot ion brand, sells the majority of its apparel, Rosenberg, who will continue to serve Locker, chief operating officer of Lady and accessories and footwear in people’s as chief merchant. Dave DeFeo is ceo of Kids Foot Locker and president of global homes, but also sells online and in several Worth Collection. built over our 25 year history.” retail at Ashley Furniture. Disa’s partners at showrooms. The company’s 1,000-plus “Our partnership with New Water will Worth operates showrooms for Worth New Capital include Mark Becker, formerly sales associates, who are called stylists, provide Worth with the strategic, oper- New York and W by Worth at the Crown a partner at Hammond, Kennedy Whitney speak the same language as their clients ational and industry expertise to enable building on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue, & Co.; Brian McGee, former principal of because they live in their communities and us to further expand our network of over and in Chicago. Disa said New Water is Sun Capital Partners, and Jason Neimark, attend the same social functions. Worth 1,000 stylists and to continue to provide looking into the possibility of developing former managing director of Sun. customers have an estimated household our customers with the latest fashion, each channel of business, including virtual New Water bowed last month after raising income of more than $200,000 annually, quality and selection in luxury and con- selling, digital selling and showroom selling. $406 million for its first private equity fund. the company said. temporary apparel,” said DeFeo. “This New Water is also weighing new product “This is our first acquisition in the “Catterton was at the end of the fund acquisition comes at a time when the retail categories. apparel space,” Disa said. “The way we life for Worth and looking to exit,” John industry is embracing dynamic change “We look at the current offering and work with each of the management teams Disa, a partner in New Water Capital, said. through buy-now-wear-now and direct-to- where the opportunities are in the mar- is that I’ll be the chairman of the company “Rothschild, which represented Catterton, consumer business models. We appreciate ket,” he said. “There’s an opportunity to [Worth] and my other partners will be presented us with the opportunity. This is L Catterton’s partnership and counsel over expand the product assortment. We have board members along with Dave and Jay. right in our target of [companies with sales the years, and believe that Worth is now an opportunity to think long and hard “My transactional partners worked on of] $30 million to $300 million. It fell into poised to grow further through new invest- about the Millennial customer. W by Worth Vince and Scotch & Soda at Sun Capital,” the category of a business in transition.” ments in digital marketing and technology, is younger than Worth New York, but Disa added. “We know the retail and

© Rights Reserved-Catherine Lacoste 1967 US Open Lacoste Reserved-Catherine © Rights Disa said that the more New Water while remaining true to our core strengths it’s not the Millennial shopper. The price apparel space pretty well.” ■ OCTOBER 5, 2016 13

Obituary Richard J. Schwartz, 77, Former Jonathan Logan CEO

● After an influential career in Canaan Ventures’ attempt in the mid-Nine- fashion, Schwartz matched ties to bring back the Jonathan Logan label after acquiring the leases of 31 outlets from that success as a private UM&M never got off the ground. investor, art collector, patron Following the acquisition by UM&M, and philanthropist. Richard Schwartz resigned as president and ceo of Jonathan Logan in March 1985, By Rosemary Feitelberg embarking on what became an immense second act. He took on the roles of private Services will be held Thursday morning investor, art collector, patron and philan- for Richard J. Schwartz, the chief execu- thropist with far greater involvement than tive officer and president of the former those words typically might suggest. His Jonathan Logan Inc., which was once the numerous mantles included life trustee world’s largest women’s apparel company. and former president of the Smithso- The services will be at 10 a.m. at Congre- nian Museum Archives of American Art, gation Temple Emanu-El in New York. vice chairman of the Friends of Arts and Schwartz, who died Tuesday at age 77, Embassies and president of the Metro- took the reins of his family’s company politan Museum of Art American Wing and turned it into an industry giant. The Bryant Fellows. Serving on the board of 12 born-and-bred New Yorker returned to the arts-related groups (as well as five schools), city after graduating from Cornell Univer- Schwartz was tapped by then-New York sity to join Jonathan Logan, an affordable Gov. Mario Cuomo in 1997 to join the New dress label started by his father David with York State Council of the Arts, and was $7,500 in 1944. later named chairman by then-Gov. George The elder Schwartz became the first Pataki, a post he held until 1997. American women’s apparel industry exec- While Schwartz never spoke about his utive to take his company public, in 1960, achievements, or what he was most proud and he also was the first to exceed $100 of, “the most meaningful” experiences million in annual sales. He once said of were representing Pataki at firemen’s his son Richard, “You know, America is a funerals with former New York City Mayor wonderful country. My kid’s only 24 years Rudy Giuliani, his wife said. “That pro- old and already he’s a millionaire.” foundly affected him. He was staggered by By 1964, the kid, Richard, was also the people he met at those funerals – the president of Jonathan Logan and, recogniz- families, the widows and so forth. That ing the changing marketplace, he started changed him enormously.” creating new divisions. They eventually As a benefactor to his alma mater, totaled more than 24 and included Butte Schwartz provided such contributions Knit, London Fog, Etienne Aigner, Rose as the Richard J. and Sheila W. Schwartz Marie Reid, Misty Harbor, Bleecker Street, Center for the Performing Arts, Schwartz Villager, Simplicity Patterns and Youth Auditorium in Rockefeller Hall, the Guild. The categories alone are signs of Richard J. Schwartz directorship of the years long since passed — half-size dresses, Johnson Museum of Art and the Sheila W. “auto coats,” Bill Blass swimwear and and Richard J. Schwartz Interdisciplin- misses’ better dresses. So much so that the ary Oncology Research Program at Weill list of Jonathan Logan-owned companies Cornell Medical College. A doer, as well as sounded like the General Motors of fash- a donor, Schwartz instinctively took action ion, WWD once wrote. by taking the long view, if someone he By 1969, Jonathan Logan was the world’s knew was ill, had started a fund or was in largest women’s apparel maker with $250 need of help, his wife said. million in sales and $13 million in net prof- “He himself got pancreatic cancer. He its. Within 10 years, Richard Schwartz had started a fund to help research that was grown sales to more than $405 million. led by his oncologist in whom he had great Until 1981, the conglomerate also owned faith. It all followed like that, ‘What can I a 1 million-square-foot knitting mill in do?’ and looking around, [he would ask] Spartanburg, S.C., with 1,600 employees. ‘How can I help?’” Committed to wholly-owned horizontal Schwartz’s arts-related and charitable manufacturing, Schwartz also at one time pursuits were rooted in pure interest, his invested in a knitting mill in Shannon, wife said. His love of horseback riding led Ireland, and a home textiles business in him to start collecting Western bronzes, Venezuela. and eventually he served on the board of a Richard J. Schwartz in 1979. In a 1969 interview with WWD, Schwartz Western art museum, before turning more boiled down his business acumen to three Richard Schwartz attention to American art that wasn’t points — build your own team, create your inadequate when it comes to the fashion have the opportunity and the close family. Western. “He learned and he learned and own identity and establish manufactur- business.” It wasn’t the grocery store or the corner he liked more things. It’s a very logical ing facilities (without inheriting possible Despite high school and college sum- store. It was what it was — a dress com- progression. He got very good at it and mistakes of others as when firms acquire mers spent working for a real estate pany. He saw that things were changing in he was very generous so he had many companies). investor friend of his father’s, Schwartz’s a different market and it went older, big- opportunities on the federal, state, local “Conglomerates and the people who run intended post-graduate career path was ger, into knits and all the different labels, and community level to involve himself them don’t have the necessary intuitive unquestionably Seventh Avenue. While and more modern.” in arts organizations, which was a thrill,” feeling for the factors in fashion, I believe. running Jonathan Logan, he built a group In 1984, United Merchants and Manu- she said. It is very important to have a basic under- that had dozens of showrooms and 42 facturing mounted what was described as In addition to his wife, Schwartz is sur- standing of the fashion business, without manufacturing facilities and catered to a hostile takeover bid for Jonathan Logan, vived by his sister, Lois Schwartz Zenkel, looking over the shoulders of executives or more than 20,000 retailers and clients. eventually acquiring it for $195 million. as well as a daughter, Jenny Schwartz, and second-guessing other people,” Schwartz His wife of 47 years, Sheila Hunter Wood The Schwartz family owned 7 percent of son, John Stephen Schwartz. In lieu of said in the interview. “Another thing about Schwartz, said Tuesday, “He followed the the stock of the company, which at that flowers, the family requests donations to the fashion business is that not everything expected thing to do. Then it turned out he time had sales of less than $400 million. the Sheila W. and Richard J. Schwartz Inter- can be articulated — lots of things must was particularly talented and particularly But the acquisition proved to be calami- disciplinary Oncology Research Program at be implied, and there are many times good at it. I think he was happy to do it. tous for UM&M, which spent the next 11 Weill Cornell Medical College c/o Laurie H.

when words can’t be used because they’re You just did it if you were lucky enough to years shuttering or selling off various units. Glimcher, M.D. ■ Palmieri Tony by Photograph OCTOBER 5, 2016 14

Fashion Scoops

director F.J. Ossang and has two designers like Elie Top, Carven’s Tiffany’s newly renovated Rodeo Plugged In more projects lined up after that, Arnaud Caillaudaud and Alexis Drive boutique in Beverly Hills on Guests at the Chanel show in including a remake of Joseph Martial, Lacoste’s Felipe Oliveira Oct. 28 and 29 and then to the Paris on Tuesday had different Losey’s “Eva” and historic drama Baptista and Wanda Nylon’s Yorkdale location in Toronto on takes on the colorful cables and “Les Confins du Monde” (“The Johanna Senyk, got in line to have Nov. 11 and 12. — KRISTI GARCED mock mainframe computers Ends of the Earth”) opposite Sitbon sign books. that formed the backdrop of Karl Gérard Depardieu. Those arriving fashionably late Lagerfeld’s spring collection. Clotilde Hesme confessed she weren’t so lucky. “There was a Tiffany’s Usher saw it as a reflection of has zero presence on social me- massive queue, I arrived at 8:30 our hyper-connected era. “It was dia. “I’m a bit old-school in terms p.m. and there was, like, no more New Face great, just the element of what of communications,” she said. “It’s books, no more nothing,” said Lou Elle Fanning is to appear in Tiffa- this century offers. You always very rare — like people who aren’t Doillon who wore a Martine Sit- ny & Co.’s digital holiday commer- talk about what the future looks tattooed. If you’re not tattooed bon-esque orange velvet top for cial, WWD has learned. like — now we get a chance to see and you’re not on Instagram, the occasion. “I put it on because “The Neon Demon” actress is it,” he said, confessing to a little you’re a bit of an oddity.” it made me think of her but it’s featured in the campaign, titled wardrobe envy. “If I were a female, The French actress just a vintage top from my mum, it’s “Make the World Sparkle,” wear- I would really be able to enjoy it finished shooting a comedy about from the Seventies. I always think ing an assortment of diamond more.” a surrogate mother for a gay cou- of Martine when I see velvets and rings, necklaces and bracelets The performer was rocking ple, a hot-button topic in France, weird shapes,” said the singer, from the brand’s Soleste, Victoria a classic black Chanel jacket where the practice is outlawed. who is penning her next album. and Tiffany T collections. with embroidered trim and silver Hesme is also reuniting with “I like to start with the voice and It is understood that the cam- jewelry. “Listen, everything is Fabrice Gobert, the creator of her guitar, and once all of the writing paign’s print component will only androgynous. I mean, look at this hit television show “The Returned,” process is done, then I’ll start feature Tiffany products. garment I’m wearing. You manage on a feature film called “K.O.” to look for producers and new Tiffany creative partner Grace to make it work,” he said, smiling “It’s about the boss of a televi- people to work with,” she said. Coddington, who collaborated on to reveal a gold grill. sion channel who wakes up one — KATYA FOREMAN the brand’s fall campaign — her Usher was fresh off the re- day and is a weather presenter,” first major commercial project af- lease of “Hard II Love,” his eighth she said. “It’s quite a strange film.” ter leaving Vogue — did not work on studio album. “It was a stop-and- Other guests included Court- Put a the company’s holiday campaign. start process, but I’m happy that ney Love, Frances Bean Cobain, According to a source, the the people finally get a chance to Inès de la Fressange, Caroline brand had sought out Codding- get my labor of love,” he said. de Maigret, Carla Bruni-Sar- Ring on It ton’s services, but the stylist — had a philo- kozy, Anna Mouglalis, Alma Moda Operandi and Tiffany & increasingly busy with freelance sophical take on the set. “I see Jodorowsky, Ye-Seul Han, Thylane Co. are getting into the spirit of commissions and the release of a Lou Doillon it as a form of irony — as if Karl Blondeau, Cécile Cassel, Ma- New York Fashion Week: Bridal, new book — was unavailable. were toying with the idea that rie-Ange Casta and Alessandra which runs from today through — MISTY WHITE SIDELL fashion is very fleeting, like Mastronardi. — JOELLE DIDERICH Monday, with a new collaboration. Another focus was to keep the these metadata that kind of The companies have tapped looks — even traditional ball- Shining Up disappear into a void and that bridal designers Monique Lhuillier, gowns — as ethereal and light as The Verdura and Belperron are doomed to be replaced Delpozo, Costarellos, Delphine More Bridal possible for comfort. “Ballgowns company has promoted James inevitably next season by a new Velvet Manivet, Elizabeth Kennedy, Marchesa Notte, the sister in the collections are soft with “Jim” Haag to the position of man- collection,” he mused. J.Mendel, Reem Acra, Romona label to Marchesa designed by light, asymmetrical cascade aging director. Haag joined the The actor, who is also the face Underground Keveza, Rosie Assoulin and Tem- Georgina Chapman and Keren drape overlays, and fit-and-flare company in 2006 from Harry Win- of fragrance, was The Paris fashion crowd flocked perley London to design a cap- Craig, is expanding beyond the styles are made lighter through ston, as vice president of sales fresh off the release of “The Danc- to Paris concept store The Broken sule collection of one-off wedding special occasion category with a the use of very delicate layers of and business development. He er,” opposite Soko and Lily-Rose Arm on Monday night for an event gowns paired alongside matching new bridal collection. tulle,” Chapman said. was instrumental in the curation Depp, who both also attended the feting the release of Martine diamonds from Tiffany’s. The The debut lineup features the “Bridal has been a very suc- of a 2014 Verdura retrospective show. He will be seen shortly in Sitbon’s new monograph, “Martine 10-piece collection is available same embellishments seen in cessful category for Marchesa and the 2015 launch of Belperron. Xavier Dolan’s “It’s Only the End of Sitbon: Alternative Vision.” On dis- for preorder exclusively on Moda Marchesa’s signature bridal col- and with Marchesa Notte Bridal, Haag will report to firm the World,” which premiered at the play were blown-up images from Operandi with other bridal collec- lection, from 3-D floral appliqués we will have the opportunity president Nico Landrigan. He will Cannes Film Festival in May. the tome as well as a selection of tions from NYFW: Bridal. to crystal, pearl and opal beading. to target a broader audience oversee marketing and commu- “Ever since ‘Saint Laurent,’ archive creations by the designer, The gowns will also be includ- Cutaway skirts, off-the-shoulder who still desires the luxury and nications operations, as well as my career has taken a new turn. who is mulling a comeback in Jan- ed in an exhibition within Tiffany’s and plunging necklines imbue the romance the brand is known for sales and product development. There is a new energy that is very uary. By Sitbon’s side was Marc Fifth Avenue flagship, set to run collection with a seductive edge, but at a more attainable price Prior to joining Belperron and pleasant and conducive to work,” Ascoli, her longtime collaborator from Thursday through Sunday, while the addition of color gives it point,” said Marchesa chief exec- Verdura, Haag worked as the he said. “I’m really thrilled and very and life partner, who designed in honor of the 130th anniversary a modern touch: “Our focus was utive officer Edward Chapman. head of worldwide sales and mar- happy with all these projects that the book. of the Tiffany Setting, where the to ensure that our bride looks The collection, set to debut keting for Harry Winston. Prior are coming my way.” Guests including Stella Ten- latest 18-karat rose gold engage- youthful and carefree while still for fall 2017, includes 13 styles to Winston, Haag held various Ulliel is currently shooting nant, Anna Cleveland and Craig ment ring will also be unveiled. keeping to the romantic aesthetic ranging from $2,295 to $3,495. marketing roles at DeBeers. “Nine Fingers” with experimental McDean, as well as a cast of The exhibition will then travel to of the brand,” Chapman said. — K.G. — M.W.S.

Lily-Rose Depp and A dress sketch Westward, Karl Lagerfeld from Monique Lhuillier as part Ho! of the Moda Atlanta-based men’s wear Operandi x retailer Sid Mashburn’s first Los Tiffany’s & Co. Angeles store, at the Brentwood bridal capsule Country Mart, opens today, a collection. men’s-only space that also houses a custom tailoring shop. Mash- burn, who was one of the first men’s wear designers at J. Crew and also held design positions at Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Lands’ End, started his eponymous line in 2007. He and wife Ann, a former Glamour and Vogue staff- er who worked for Polly Mellen, together formed a mini-retail chain that now consists of four con- nected men’s and women’s stores (they each have separate store- fronts) in Atlanta, Washington, D.C., Houston and Dallas. Los Angeles is their fifth location. The Mashburns said they’ve been eyeing the West Coast for

rançois Goize F rançois Doillon by eugère; some time, but it was Brentwood Country Mart owner Jim Ros- enfield who approached them when a space became available in his eclectic, barnlike complex on Los Angeles’ tony westside. At around 1,000-square feet, however, it wasn’t large enough to also house a women’s store. — MARCY MEDINA téphane F S téphane by Chanel photograph