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▲ REVIEWS: TRADE: Sourcing Horizons, Section II. Coverage of Marios Schwab, Luella, ▲ FASHION: LONDON Graeme Viktor & spring ’09 Black and Rolf’s more, Web show, pages 8-9. page 2. WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • September 16, 2008 • $2.00 Global Edition Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Jump Shot NEW YORK — It’s all about jumpsuits this season, and Donna Karan, who showed a lineup of sexy, draped looks, offered this languid version in rayon jersey. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Where’s the Bottom? Retail Shares Plunge Amid Dow Meltdown By WWD Staff A trio of financial crises left investors gasping for breath on Monday and the fashion industry wondering just how much more stress the retail markets, and even the resilient luxury sector, can take. The growing concern over consumer confidence and spending as retailers prep for the key holiday season fed a steep fall in the S&P Retail Index on Monday. While the index didn’t mirror the 500-point plunge in the overall Dow Jones Industrial Average, it did decline 2.5 percent, or 10.16 points, to 396.15. There were sharp drops in the shares of Macy’s Inc., down 6.5 percent; Saks Inc., 6.4 percent; Sears Holdings Corp., 3.2 percent, and Kohl’s Corp. 2.2 percent. Specialty chains taking hits included American Eagle See Bank, Page12 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY 2 WWD/GLOBAL, SEPTEMBER 2008 WWD.COM Viktor & Rolf’s Online Showcase By Miles Socha WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles PARIS — From Flowerbombs to mouse clicks. Fashion showmen extraordinaire Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren said Monday that they would FASHION present their spring-summer 2009 collection on their Web site, in lieu of the Paris runway, on which ▲ 6 Sleeveless, zippered, slouchy or bright — jumpsuits the Dutch designers in the past have featured pyrotechnics, fog and blue-screen technology effects. were one of the biggest trends to come out of the WWD reported Monday that the designers would forgo the runway this season as they transition to New York spring collections. new ownership by Renzo Rosso’s Only the Brave Srl. Starting with the fall-winter 2009 season, Staff International, Only the Brave’s manufacturing and distribution arm, will hold the exclusive worldwide GENERAL license for Viktor & Rolf ’s women’s and men’s collections of clothing, shoes and accessories. Gibò will The Wall Street fi nancial crises left fashion markets manufacture and distribute the spring collection. 1 wondering how much more stress retailing, and even “It’s a creative solution between partners,” Snoeren the resilient luxury sector, can take. Rolf Snoeren said Monday. “It’s quite a big RTW: While there was more ethnic diversity on New and Viktor production. We’re shooting it 10 Horsting York runways last week, industry insiders are eager next week.” to see the movement gain momentum. The online showcase, to go live on Oct. 2 on their new 11 John Hardy opened its fi rst corner at Le Bon Marché Web site, viktor-rolf.com, in Paris and is scouting for retail partners in the U.K., will depict an actual fash- Switzerland, Russia and Spain. ion show in the Grand Salon 11 After creating a performance niche with athletes, of their virtual house. “It’s Under Armour is launching a women’s fi tness- a bit like in the Fifties in focused, collection-driven line for spring. the French couture salons,” Snoeren said. However, the 14 TEXTILES: Barack Obama will punish nations violat- online version will employ ing global trade rules if he becomes president, said the latest technologies and senior economic adviser Daniel Tarullo. allow for “guests” to access the backstage area, to see EYE hair and makeup, and to 4 A look at what the style-setters were sporting in and pop in on the designers for around the Bryant Park tents during fashion week. fittings of their collection, Sourcing Horizons is included as a Section II in titled Funny Face. this issue. “There’s so many pos- sibilities on the Internet,” Snoeren said. Classifi ed Advertisements...............................................................................................19 It’s quite a big production. Not that he and Horsting can resist the thrill of a real TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS We’re“ shooting it next week. show. “This gives us a chance [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. next season to have a fresh WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 ” start with a real runway show FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. — Rolf Snoeren, Viktor & Rolf VOLUME 196, NO. 58. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with in Paris,” Snoeren said. one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B Louis Vuitton to Host Yachting Event 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please it gave the America’s Cup in 1999 in addition to write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. By Ellen Groves Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed Vuitton’s commercial interests in the country, within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S PARIS — Louis Vuitton is reentering the sailing which it entered in 1991. There are four Vuitton WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 sponsorship race. stores there, including two in Auckland, one or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened The luxury goods brand next year will host an in Christchurch and another in Queenstown. companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive international yachting event in Auckland, New Neighboring Australia is also home to many these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call Zealand. Called the Louis Vuitton Pacifi c Series, Vuitton boutiques. 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, the event will be held during New Zealand’s While specifi c products will not be created PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, summer, from Jan. 31 to Feb. 14. for the series, some best-selling Vuitton Cup PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS “I think the world of sailing will be really excit- pieces may be reintroduced, Carcelle noted. SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND ed,” Vuitton chief executive offi cer Yves Carcelle Selected on a “fi rst come, fi rst served” basis, OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. said at a press conference here Monday. six to eight teams will compete in the one-off The move marks a return to the sailing cal- competition, said Bruno Troublé, the Pacifi c endar for Vuitton, which withdrew its 25-year Series organizer. DAILY sponsorship of the America’s Cup qualifying Emphasizing this is not a new version of the races last year, citing its overly commercial ap- Vuitton Cup, executives said rather than another QUOTE Am I going to have a proach. The America’s Cup, yachting’s top prize, competition of technological prowess, teams in remains plagued by legal wrangling between the Pacifi c Series will sail in the same two yachts, “ biotech billionaire Ernesto Bertarelli, head of which will be as technically identical as possible. better day tomorrow? I hope so. the Swiss syndicate that currently holds the cup, Three or four regattas will be held daily fol- ” and Oracle’s Larry Ellison, who has mounted a lowing a two-mile, hour-long course between the — Diane Levbarg, executive vice president of Missoni USA, series of court challenges to Bertarelli’s plans port of Auckland and the Rangitoto Volcano, with on the outlook for retail. Page One. for the next series. viewing points provided for spectators on land. All participants in what was known as the Executives declined to disclose the level of Louis Vuitton Cup are invited to contend for the investment. “It’s less than Valencia,” Carcelle Pacifi c Series, which has the backing of the New joked, referring to the city that hosted the fi nal Zealand government, plus the New Zealanders Vuitton Cup.
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