THE SWISS ALPS by TRAIN Date and Price To Be Announced

ZURICH

LUCERNE click on a city INTERLAKEN to jump there.

LOCARNO ZERMATT

We will explore this wonderland of Touring Switzerland is almost like scenic peaks, valleys, villages and visiting all of Europe in one small lakes in the Swiss Alps, traveling by country. This country is a fascinat- first-class rail and staying in some ing mix of French culture in the west, of the most charming places in the German in the east and Italian in country. the south. Most Swiss also speaks The itinerary includes several nights English, so you will have no trouble in each place, which gives you time communicating. to have a good look around. Our cus- You will discover cobblestone lanes tomized itinerary has been carefully for pedestrians winding past ancient created to include the most scenic buildings that have the most modern parts of the Alpine region, and the shops inside, with everything spot- most beautiful towns. Picture in your lessly clean and well organized. This mind a vision of the Alps with their is the land of efficiency and charm, majestic pinnacles towering over with very friendly people. The best green foothills, with little villages of both worlds, old and new nestled at their base in green mead- ows. We shall see it all in our visit.

Price includes hotels, breakfast, first-class rail between cities, escort. Not included: air; trips to mountain peaks, tips, boat rides.

pg 1 1 very pleasant in May, reaching the off the winter snow, complete the on the other by a hillside and ancient 60s and 70s, for Lucerne sits at an picturesque scenario. Automobiles fortified wall, which you can climb. elevation of just 1,300 feet. Some are not allowed into this large Feel free to wander. of the nearby mountains do reach historic zone, so you can wander 10,000 feet, with snow-covered the cobbled lanes without fear of TWO COVERED BRIDGES: glaciers, but the temperatures in getting run over. The shopping is town are very comfortable. Many fun, with many items that are pure In the heart of Lucerne is its major restaurants and cafes have outdoor Swiss in character, like music boxes, landmark, the 560-foot long Chapel seating in fair weather, some of them chocolates, watches, cuckoo clocks, Bridge, or Kapellbrucke, the oldest on the beautiful banks of the Reuss covered bridge in Europe, first built River that flows through town, so it in 1333. But in 1993, after 660 years, LUCERNE is really nice to sit in the fresh air and this Lucerne icon was destroyed enjoy your meal. by fire, only to be rebuilt by the Our visit begins in Lucerne, one efficient townspeople within a year of the world’s prettiest towns, set Day One: walking tour in the Old in the original style — and by now on a beautiful waterfront, along Town. Day Two: trip to the top of Mt. has weathered to a mellow patina the shores of Lake Lucerne and the Titlis; afternoon free for shopping that once again looks hundreds River Reuss, surrounded by majestic alternative options, boat ride and of years old. The heroic rise from mountains. They truly have it all. excursions to Rigi, Pilatus. ashes symbolizes Swiss pride in Lucerne is deservedly the most cowbells, beer steins, hand-carved popular destination in Switzerland, wooden statues, costumed dolls, famous for its well-preserved Old cheese, knives, embroidery, linens, Town, consisting of many blocks of music, and you can also find very medieval buildings richly decorated good deals on clothing. The two with painted murals showing village main watch shops are Bucherer, life in olden days, making this like an a multi-story extravaganza, and outdoor art gallery. Gubelin, facing each other on the lakefront at Schwanenplatz. their past and modern ability to You can’t get lost in this small place get things done. Even here, it DAY ONE: Explore the town. — the Old Town is surrounded on sometimes takes forever to repair one side by the river and lake, and old buildings or construct new ones, We will arrive in the afternoon, and but the quality upon completion is after resting up at the hotel, take an unsurpassed. Adjacent to the bridge orientation walk. The historic center is the 110-foot high Water Tower, of Lucerne is an extensive pedestrian also nearly 700 years old, the most Two days will be plenty of time to zone, filled with interesting shops, photographed image in town. For enjoy Lucerne, using it as your home restaurants, and ancient buildings. the best picture, lure some swans base for travels by train and boat to The steep gabled roofs, covered with into your foreground with the bridge nearby sights. Temperatures are strong wooden shingles to ward and tower behind. 2 pg 1 pg 1 3 three of them open free to the public, carvings and wrought-iron works, and a section of wall you can walk and a cloistered courtyard next door. along for the most spectacular view looking down on the town. This is SMALL LANES AND PLAZAS: worth your effort, and easy to find, with a path just beyond the Mill Walk the few blocks back into Bridge that takes you there. the center of town along the main pedestrian shopping street, Hertenstein-Strasse, and head for The Mill Bridge is a smaller covered LION MONUMENT: consider having a gourmet meal the Kornmarkt, a small square with bridge two hundred yards south here on one of your nights in town. The other landmark we shall see along the river, built around 1408, With its traditional half-timbered on our orientation is the huge Lion notable for its series of paintings, wooden beam construction dating Monument, carved deeply into the “The Dance of Death,” whose back to 1859, this is truly a landmark jangling skeletons of the Black of Lucerne. They serve the best Death make you feel lucky to be Wienerschnitzel, sinfully sautéed alive. The clever Swiss have once with a stick of butter right at your again harnessed the waterpower that table, or superb fresh fish from the originally gave this bridge its name, lake, and many other items from and created a modern electricity- an extensive menu. Comfortably the Old Town Hall, built in 1602 with generating turbine, underwater and elegant, the cozy interior is a perfect two distinctive styles that mirror completely invisible. Both bridges setting for a memorable meal. Swiss cultural heritage: Italian in the also served as part of the medieval The Hoffkirche, or Collegiatelower section, echoing the Florentine fortifications that surrounded the sandstone cliff to commemorate the Church, is another attraction in this Renaissance, and a Bern farmhouse 1792 death of 786 Swiss mercenary part of town, on a hill overlooking wooden shingle pitched roof. An soldiers that were trying to defend the lake, four blocks south of the excellent restaurant for simple Swiss King Louis XVI in Paris. Completed restaurant. This Catholic church was sausage meals is here, Pfistern, with in 1821, it depicts a noble, mortally built in the gothic and Renaissance a rustic wooden interior, or tables wounded lion, regal but dying from styles during the 17th century outside on the lower terrace along a spear thrust in the ribs, making a and has a rich interior with many the river. The Picasso Museum is grand tragic statement of historic also on Kornmarkt, with a display of pride carved in stone. Mark Twain prints and 8 paintings. toured Lucerne and called this “the town. saddest and most moving piece of You will discover several other peaceful small plazas in the middle The old fortification wall still survives rock in the world.” of the Old Town, where cobblestone from the Middle Ages, built around The Old Swiss House, one of the best pedestrian lanes come together and the same time as the two bridges, restaurants in Lucerne, is located form a charming open area, ringed between 1350 and 1408. Called the in front of the Lion Monument, by ancient buildings and sidewalk Musegg Wall, it has nine towers, so have a look at their menu and cafes, with a fountain in the middle. 4 pg 1 pg 1 5 Small independent shops, and a few Tuesday and Saturday mornings the snow. It is cold enough that the department stores, make this the you will see the farmers’ market, snow never melts, but in the summer prime retail section of town. with cheeses, breads, fruits, produce with typical sunshine you will feel and pretty flower stalls, which stay comfortable with just a light jacket. DAY TWO: Train to Mount Titlis; open through mid-day. After the There are also some big inner tubes boat ride. refreshing sunrise excursion head you can ride down a side hill. For back to your hotel for breakfast and more fun on the trip down, get off Enjoy your rich buffet breakfast at prepare for your day’s activities. the cable car at the next-to-last stop our deluxe hotel and relax over coffee. and rent a scooter ($5) to coast down Be sure to try the dark breads if you MOUNT TITLIS: if you want to clown around. In the final mile. are a whole-wheat fan, made fresh Engelberg follow the signs and walk The most exciting, convenient a couple hundred yards to the cable We return to town the same way, excursion out of town is to Mount car lift that will take you on the enjoying the scenery a second time in Titlis, where you get a chance to 45-minute ride up the mountain. reverse, or take a snooze. We will be frolic in the snow at the top of a back in town before 3:00pm, which mountain, just two hours from Mount Titlis provides a spectacular leaves some time for more shopping, Lucerne. Because it has a glacier view into the heart of the Alps, or to take a boat ride. Depending at the 10,000-foot summit, there is with lofty peaks of the Jungfrau, on your interests, you could save the snow all year round, so it is really a Munch and Eiger visible in the boat for tomorrow, which gives you thrill to go up in the summer time distant Bernese Oberland on a clear more time for a longer excursion. If each morning in the town’s excellent and play, especially for us Hawaiians. day. The Titlis viewing platform at bakeries. Lucerne is in the German- 10,000 feet has an elaborate multi- speaking eastern part of Switzerland storied restaurant, café and gift shop and they love dark bread. complex, along with an ice tunnel into the glacier. In typical Swiss The banks of Lake Lucerne offer fashion, they have civilized this a most picturesque walk, through mountain peak like so many other manicured gardens, past picnickers, similar perches in their realm. You swans, fishermen, bobbing boats, can walk right onto the glacier from and tree-lined paths. This stroll the panorama terrace and frolic in you would just like a short two-hour is especially dramatic at sunrise, It is very easy to get there. Take the ride, now is a good time. The boat when the water turns to gold. On scenic train one hour to Engelberg, docks are right in front of the train enjoying beautiful views of the station, with frequent departures. mountains, farms and villages along Check their exact schedules on-line the way. At one section this becomes at www.lakelucerne.ch. a rack railway, where the train gears engage a metal strip between the You can spend a very pleasant rails and pull the train up the steep afternoon enjoying a boat ride on incline, giving you a chance to walk Lake Lucerne. Various pleasure the aisle leaned over at 45 degrees, boats operate on the lake, and you 6 pg 1 pg 1 7 optional trip to Mt. Pilatus, the You could take a longer boat ride mountain that towers over Lucerne. and go all the way to the end of the Take the boat from the dock in lake at Fluelen, which takes about front of the Lucerne train station to 3 hours, and then take a one-hour Alpnachstad, which takes one hour train ride back to Lucerne. No and ten minutes, then ride up the matter which route you decide world’s steepest cog-wheel railway upon, you will be rewarded with a can ride them 45 minutes across the to the top of Pilatus for a sweeping relaxing experience and wonderful water to the little villages of Weggis view of the lake and Lucerne. They scenery along the shores of the lake. and Vitznau. Each of these towns to the time of the legendary William do have a nice rustic restaurant, and Light refreshments are served on Tell, who defied the ruling Hapsburg have a number of cafes along the there is even a hotel at the top. You board, and some of the larger ships water where you could have lunch or authorities and was then forced to have a restaurant with typical Swiss shoot an apple from his son’s head, afternoon tea while waiting for the cuisine. There are several large, old- next boat back to Lucerne. leading to a rebellion that ousted the fashioned paddle wheelers that offer corrupt government and to Swiss FOLKLORE SHOW: independence. Since that medieval confederation of Uri, Schwyz, Tonight, try the dinner show at the Unterwalden and Lucerne, 19 more famous Stadtkeller in the heart of the cantons (states) joined the nation, Old Town, where you will be totally which reached its present size after entertained by traditional Swiss the start of the 19th century and music, with costumed performers the defeat of Napoleon. A thousand yodeling their hearts out, throwing could return the same way, or for years of complicated intrigue and colorful flags around, playinga slightly faster alternative with a changing alliances have resulted in spoons, bottles and brooms, and just different routing, take the cable car the modern country we find today, putting on one heck of a lively show. down the back side of the mountain an elegant atmosphere that hasn’t neutral and secure in the middle of The food is very good, with a choice to Kriens, and walk a few blocks to changed in the last hundred years. If the Continent. of traditional items like bratwurst, the city bus stop that will whisk you you have a Eurail Pass the boat rides Wienerschnitzel, sliced veal in back into town. are free, or if you pay, the price varies You can do one of the lake excursions mushroom cream sauce, fondue, between $15 and $100 depending on and still have time in Lucerne for BOAT RIDES: chicken or fish, accompanied by your route and whether you go first shopping, or visiting a museum. The rosti potatoes, which are similar to class or second. Swiss Transportation Museum is the hash browns but better. largest such display in the country, We call it Lake Lucerne, but the but it is best for those whvo are very OTHER OPTIONS: Boat ride, and Swiss name is Vierwaldstattersee, interested in seeing many kinds of more exploring in town. which means “lake of the four old trains, cars and planes. It is two forest cantons,” referring to the four miles outside the city and can be PILATUS: communities that joined together reached by public bus, or boat. back in at the start of the 14th A superb combination boat and century and created the beginnings If you enjoy pedaling, there is a funicular ride brings you on an of Switzerland. This takes us back 8 pg 1 pg 1 9 artists from the Italian-speaking facilities so you can relax, have a southern part of Switzerland. Next drink, and enjoy the eye-popping door is the Ritter Palace, originally views of giant mountains, vast used as a Jesuit residence, but later glaciers and splendid valleys. If you converted into Lucerne government like to hike, you will be able to get that offices. It has a surprising Tuscan much more out of the experience, courtyard on the interior, so stop in for the region has a vast network of for a free look. trails ranging from simple paths to lovely bicycle excursion you could mountain-climbing ascents. Another nice attraction of this side to take advantage of the gourmet take along the northern shore of the opportunities of this town. lake, in the direction of Tribschen, is our favorite chocolate shop, Au There is so much to see and do we passing through a couple of little Chocolat, on Pfister-Gasse Street. are spending three full days here, They fill the pralines by hand with We leave Lucerne after breakfast filled with a variety of activities. villages along the way. There is a and catch the train to Interlaken, sandy beach and swimming in the sinfully rich creams that will melt enjoying a very scenic two-hour Among the many astounding chilly water for the brave souls. The your soul with delight. Also called ride into the beautiful mountains, sights you will find in this Bernese 8-mile round trip take about two truffles, the stuffed chocolates of Lucerne rival those of Belgium, and through the Brunig Pass and along Oberland region are: hours, and you can rent bicycles at the shores of Lake Brienz. the train station. will stay fresh for a few weeks, so they are an excellent present to bring INTERLAKEN Europe’s longest glacier home. The History Museum on the Four famous peaks, the Mönch, same street has a small display about Some of the world’s most spectacular Eiger, Jungfrau and Schilthorn the region. mountain scenery is waiting for you just outside of Interlaken in the heart Astonishingly beautiful There are many dinner options of the Swiss Alps. Here is nature Lauterbrunnen Valley in Lucerne, ranging from a at its very best, and you don’t need simple sausage meal to a full-on to be an athlete to enjoy it because Europe’s highest railroad station gastronomic extravaganza. I would the Swiss make it easy to get up the suggest the latter at one of a half- highest peaks with their efficient Delightful mountain villages of ACROSS THE RIVER REUSS: dozen superb restaurants for at least network of trains and cable cars. Grindelwald, Wengen and Murren one, maybe two of your nights here They have civilized the wilderness There is also a small section of the Old with restaurants and observation Two large lakes with tour boat Town on the other side of the river, platforms that provide comfortable service and fascinating nearby cities. so walk across one of the pedestrian bridges and have a look around the area near the Jesuit Church. This pretty church, built between 1666 and 1673, was influenced by the Italians, decorated in the baroque style by Toriano and Toricelli, two

10 pg 1 pg 1 11 DAY THREE: We begin the journey shortly after boat ride, and/or train to Bern. breakfast because it takes 2 1/2 hours to reach the Jungfrau summit, where Weather is always a major factor the weather is generally clearer in the for determining our schedule in the morning, and longer to get down via mountains because we do not want an alternative route, so with various to spend time and money going to stops along the way you are going to the top on a cloudy day when you have a full day. There is train service All these attractions are close to the can’t see anything. This is another leaves the residential neighborhood town of Interlaken, which makes a good reason for spending a three and enters the narrow mouth of perfect base from which to explore days here — to increase the chances Lauterbrunnen Valley, with the river the region. Interlaken is a practical of good weather. If the reports from rushing alongside and the steep tourist center with fine support mountains framing your view. services, excellent rail and boat connections, and a compactness that every half-hour departing from the LAUTERBRUNNEN makes for easy to walking anywhere Interlaken Ost rail station, on the in town. There is also a large casino east side of town just a few blocks Change trains in Lauterbrunnen for filled with slot machines for some from our hotel. the second leg of the journey, up the evening amusement. The nearby longest cog railway in Switzerland. To get the best views on this train The ride begins with a dramatic journey, you need to know where to 14-minute ascent that offers sit and what to look for; otherwise, astonishing panoramic views of the the Jungfrau summit look good this you could completely miss the most valley below as you travel up to the first morning, we go for it, because spectacular sights. The rail journey’s village of Wengen, perched on the it might cloud over tomorrow. first leg is a 20-minute ride from side of a steep mountain. As the train Temperatures in Interlaken are mild climbs up the side of the mountain in May.

DAY ONE: TO THE JUNGFRAU surrounding peaks and valleys are your main reasons for being here, Europe’s highest railroad line will so our time in Interlaken is mostly bring you up to a spectacular world for eating and sleeping in order of perpetual winter, dominated to gear up for excursions into the by massive, snow-covered peaks mountains. reaching over 13,000 feet high and surrounding the continent’s longest DAY ONE: Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, and you can see a majestic vista of the glacier. Many consider the train ride Jungfrau and Grindelwald. already the scenery is nice, especially deep green Lauterbrunnen Valley, up one of the finest, most picturesque if you sit on the left side of the train framed by steep hillsides dotted with DAY TWO: in the world, where getting to the top and carefully stick your head out the farms and massive snow-covered Lauterbrunnen and Schilthorn. is half the fun. window to look forward as the train peaks in the distance. 12 pg 1 pg 1 13 to let everyone out for a walk through — you just enjoy the ride and are studies have documented an short tunnels to viewing stations, suddenly transported to this other alarming trend in recent decades of where you look through windows at world. After walking around on the a gradual reduction in the size and the nearby mountain peaks and the snowfield, it’s nice to go indoors and extent of Alpine glaciers, probably landscapes far below. due to global warming. The air up here is extremely clear, with only 5% Upon arrival at the end of the rail of the dust and humidity found at line, you walk through an ice tunnel lower altitudes, making for very crisp decorated with ice carvings and conditions. Temperatures are just You will have a lovely journey to the then approach a sight too amazing below freezing, but on a mild, sunny, rail junction at Kleine Scheidegg, May day it is quite comfortable, and where you catch the third and final there is always hot chocolate waiting train that will bring you to the top, for you in the café. rising from an elevation of 6,762 feet up to 11,333 feet, Europe’s highest have a meal in the cafeteria or the Plan on spending an hour at the top, train station. restaurant and do a little souvenir playing in the snow and exploring shopping in this very civilized visitor JUNGFRAU center. If you feel like skiing, there is a gentle slope open year-round, This hundred-year-old rail line complete with a school for beginners. from Kleine Scheidegg to the for description or film. You really Jungfraujoch is one of Europe’s great have to pay your dues and go But you still haven’t reached the top engineering wonders, the world’s there in person to experience the until you ride the elevator another highest subway climbing through exhilaration of standing at the top 356 feet up to The Sphinx, the four miles of tunnels inside the rock. of the world, surrounded by Alpine Jungfrau’s highest platform (11,700 The beginning of this 50-minute giants of snow. ft.) offering an unobstructed view in journey is not underground, and all directions. This modern building the various levels and exhibits of the momentarily offers a great view; so The observation deck and snowfield opened in 1996 and functions as visitor center, then catch a convenient sit on the right side of the train. The are at 11,350 feet, flanked by the a scientific research center as well train back down the route you came. train makes two brief stops enroute jagged peaks of the Jungfrau (13,642 as a public lookout, with a weather We return to Kleine Scheidegg and ft.) and the Mönch (13,449 ft.), which station, astronomical telescope, change trains for a different return form a valley that cradles the Aletsch cosmic radiation detector, solar route through Grindelwald. Galcier, an endless field of snow that observatory and environmental stretches 13 miles to the horizon. monitoring station. The center’s GRINDELWALD It is a mind-blowing sight! One is intoxicated with appreciation of this The route down to Grindelwald and vista and amazed by the excellent back to Interlaken is another beautiful Swiss technology that delivers you ride through stunning mountain here to such a comfortable viewing scenery, completing a circular route platform. There was no effort at all that doesn’t repeat itself but always 14 pg 1 pg 1 15 to the back of Lauterbrunnen Valley and taking Europe’s longest cable car ride up to the Schilthorn mountain. It’s the same 20-minute train ride as yesterday from Interlaken’s East station to the town of Lauterbrunnen, and then take the public bus on a scenic 20-minute reveals something new. Grindelwald there are more dramatic landscapes ride to Stechelback where the cable is another small, quaint mountain crowds of people here and there, so to admire along the way. This has car begins. That bus from the train village, most famous as a home base the center of town might not be all been a full day that should leave station to Stechelback takes just for mountain trekkers. There are that peaceful; but it is easy to find time and energy to find dinner, then 20 minutes, driving through the nearly 200 miles of hiking trails that charming outdoor restaurants a few turn in to rest for more adventures spectacular, green Lauterbrunnen reach out from here, some of which blocks away with stunning views tomorrow. One truly outstanding are reached by cable car, or any of of mountains so close it seems you a dozen routes that extend directly could reach out and grab them. out from the village. A popular While the village center may be route is the 20-minute cable car ride ordinary, the stunning landscapes all around are so spectacular they just

Valley, whose high vertical walls and flat floor were carved out by choice for a memorable meal in glaciers eons ago, resembling a deep to the First Station, where you can Interlaken, outdoors with a view U-shaped canyon. We could get off pick from three excellent mountain of the mountains you have just the bus halfway and pay a small fee trails of varying difficulty. There is conquered, is the Grand Hotel and to visit the powerful Trummelbach also an imposing glacier gorge and might entice you to take a walk right Spa Victoria-Jungfrau, a famous, waterfall, which comes roaring the mysterious Blue Ice Grotto to now, perhaps to the glacier through ultra-deluxe resort, with reasonable down from the Jungfrau, Eiger and explore, close to the village. a narrow rock-lined canyon. Then prices on the dining terrace. Mönch high above. There is an continue through some meadows elevator inside the waterfall (those If you don’t feel like hiking, just where you will see numerous cows DAY TWO: Swiss engineers!) along with a series find a terrace café with a view of enjoying their green pastures. of tunnels and bridges to bring you the mountains and sit back to relax SCHILTHORN and MURREN right up to the face of this raging with a drink and some local snacks. It only takes 35 minutes for the train vertical river. The valley has 72 We’ll get an early start for another This can be a busy little village, with to reach Interlaken on a direct route waterfalls, but Trummelbach is by big day in the mountains, traveling tour buses running up and down the from Grindelwald, and of course far the most spectacular. This is an main street and small 16 pg 1 pg 1 17 Gimmelwald, with its few scattered Mönch and Eiger, whose complete views of mountains, glaciers and chalets for the 140 residents, and forms can be seen better from this valleys. On a sunny summer day the then continue to the top of the distance than close-up. Be sure to temperatures hover around freezing mountain by the next cablecar. but usually feel quite comfortable when you are properly dressed. The Schilthorn is worth the effort, After an hour head down in the for you will be in the middle of a cable car to Murren, a quaint village massive range of snow-covered with some excellent restaurants and easy visit, and you walk back to the peaks that stretch to the horizon, more views. road and catch the next bus coming offering what some feel is the best through to Stechelback, where the mountain view in Europe. On a long cable car ascent begins. clear day a vast panorama of over 200 high mountains extends all around walk out into the snowfield following SCHILTHORN you, reaching from Titlis to Mont the guided rope trail along the crest of the ridge to immerse yourself in Four different cable cars are needed the environment, rather than merely to get up this highest cable run in looking at it from the deck. Then Europe, from an elevation of 2,844 cap it off with a drink in the Crystal feet at the beginning to 9,748 feet Lounge and imagine watching James on top of the Schilthorn mountain. Bond in the frantic chase scene from The views from the first stage of this On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, MURREN cablecar ride are so fine they alone filmed here in 1969. would make the day worthwhile, This is one of the few automobile- looking out the length of the valley The view from the Schilthorn is just free villages in Switzerland, so it and to the waterfall and dramatic as spectacular as the view from the makes for a lovely stroll, especially rock cliff a few feet from the gondola. Blanc and all through the Bernese Jungfrau, but different in its own with the amazing views across Oberland. The Swiss engineers have way, with that amazing panorama of Lauterbrunnen Valley towards the done it again with superb facilities peaks all around. While the Jungfrau Jungfrau. It only takes ten minutes at the observation center, including observation deck is about 2,000 feet to walk from one end of Murren to a rotating restaurant and escalators higher, with that endless glacier, both the other. to bring you to the different levels, mountains are covered with snow all run by solar power. Have a all year round and give spectacular We next travel 2 1/2 miles from snack or a simple lunch in the self- service cafeteria while soaking in the amazing view. We change cablecars in the villages of Gimmelwald and Murren along the A large outdoor terrace provides an way, gaining different perspectives excellent vantage to look back across on the mountains. We can stop off the valley at the three great peaks for a quick look at the tiny hamlet of you visited yesterday, the Jungfrau, 18 pg 1 pg 1 19 Murren to Grutschalp and take the in town to enjoy a leisurely meal, enjoy panoramic views of glaciers funicular down to the train station perhaps take a pass at the Casino, and mountains while relaxing at the in Lauterbrunnen. You could do then turn in to rest up for your final restaurant and observation terrace. big day. Or, you may crave to visit Then retrace your route back down. the top of yet another mountain, You will find many other scenic which can be quickly done with an routes in the Grindelwald area. 8-minute funicular ride from the Interlaken Ost rail station to Harder LAKE BRIENZ Kulm, which offers nice views of the Two large lakes, Brienz and Thun, Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau, as well as many tempting options, you might each with numerous recreational Interlaken and its two lakes. decide to stay three days longer! and sightseeing opportunities, Rather than lay out one specific plan flank Interlaken. Lake Brienz, or Maybe you would enjoy an evening here, we suggest various excursions as the Swiss call it, Brienzersee, can this either by walking for 90 minutes boat ride on Lake Brienz, a three- to pick from and leave the selection be explored with a combination of through picture-postcard scenery hour round-trip cruise that leaves to you: hiking, boat rides, or scenic boats, trains, and hiking, depending along the smooth path, or by riding the dock next to the east rail station train trips to nearby cities. the little narrow-gauge train. It is at 7:30 p.m. Dinner is served in a on how ambitious you feel. It takes one of the easiest Alpine strolls, with lovely restaurant on board as you HIKING OPTIONS 70 minutes to ride the boat from a mild downhill slope that gently cruise along, passing a number of Interlaken to the town of Brienz, pulls you along, fueled by sights so quaint villages. The sun sets at about Dozens of splendid hiking trails in noted as a center of woodcarving and pretty it will be an effortless glide. 8:00pm in May, so there will most this region could keep you strolling as a gateway to the Rothurn Kulm, a You will return to Interlaken by late likely be golden lighting for much of on different paths for weeks. The mountain 7,433 ft. high, reached by afternoon, leaving time for more the way. most scenic network is found back a steam locomotive cog-railway. As adventures. in the Grindelwald area, just 35 usual, there is a summit restaurant DAY THREE: SPECTACULAR minutes from Interlaken by train, as with panorama terrace and some OPTIONS easy walking trails to enjoy.

An easy hiking option on the way to Brienz is to get off the boat after 40 minutes at the village of Iseltwald and walk along the wild, romantic south shore of the lake for two hours to the village of Giessbach, and then resume your boat journey to Brienz. described in the first day’s schedule. While in Giessbach you might After a rest at our hotel, you could One of the most popular hikes there ride up the short funicular to have head out to a variety of different By now the two main mountain involves taking a cable car from lunch or tea at the Grand Hotel, on fun activities. If you are too pooped activities have been covered, but there Grindelwald to Pfingstegg, and then the panorama terrace overlooking from this big day, just pick from are many more exciting activities to walking for 90 minutes to Stieregg at the lake, forest and 1500-foot-high among the dozens of fine restaurants choose from on this third day — so 5583 feet elevation, where you can waterfall. 20 pg 1 pg 1 21 The very popular Swiss Open Air museum is open daily from 10 to 5. your walk through the historic zone Museum in Ballenberg can be reached begins the moment you arrive. Just by a 3-mile express bus ride from the LAKE THUN and BERN in front of the station is one of Bern’s Brienz train station. This historical important churches, the Church of park features almost 100 original A different set of options awaits you the Holy Ghost, considered the most century-old Swiss buildings brought on the other lake flanking Interlaken, elaborate Protestant baroque church in from throughout Switzerland, Lake Thun. Here too are peaceful in the country. with farm gardens, demonstrations boat rides to quaint villages along the shore, followed by a train ride to of typical crafts, special events lanes, a wonderful old main square, Among all the pretty towns of a fascinating city, the national capitol and 250 native farmyard animals, rows of shops two levels high, and Switzerland, Bern is unique because of Bern. For example, a ship leaves creating a vivid impression of rural many buildings that date back to the most of the sidewalks in the historic life in bygone days. You can visit Middle Ages. The town center is just section are covered by old arcades inside the kitchens, bedrooms a few blocks from the boat docks and that continue for nearly four miles and living rooms of reconstructed the train station, and can easily be along most of the streets in the original houses and farm buildings, explored in one or two hours. When center. The stone arcades offer and watch craftsmen demonstrating you have seen enough, walk over to protection from sun and rain, but traditional activities, including the train station for a quick ride to more importantly, create a special lace making, straw weaving, Bern. atmosphere that is somewhere woodcarving and needlework. between being outdoors and inside. Historical displays of farm activities BERN As you walk along the covered Interlaken at 9:40 a.m. and arrives at the lakeshore town of Thun two It only takes 20 minutes for the hours later, after stopping at eight train to reach Bern from Thun, with little villages along the way. You don’t several departures every hour, so really need to get off and visit these this is a very easy trip to a rewarding villages, but looking at them from the boat is quite enjoyable. Be sure to get a good look at the Romanesque castle at Spiez, towering over the span recent centuries and continue village on the lakeshore. It is open as right up through modern scientific a museum, so you might be tempted sidewalks there are interesting views innovations. Honest exhibits to disembark here for that special framed by the arches, columns, present realistic views of history, visit, easily walked from the dock. flower boxes and windows that ranging from wealthy farm homes give pleasure everywhere you turn. If the boat ride does not appeal, you to a gloomy picture of the very People still live in the upper floors, could take a 30-minute direct train difficult work and living conditions which makes this a vibrant mixed- from Interlaken West station to of many peasants. Your visit will be a destination, and the return to use community with bakeries, shops Thun, and stop off for a brief visit on learning experience set in a beautiful Interlaken by direct train takes just and cafes for locals as well as visitors. your way to Bern. Thun has a well- variety of rural scenes. The outdoor one hour. The Bern train station Because the buildings are small, preserved Old Town, with cobbled is right next to the Old Town, so department stores and franchises 22 pg 1 pg 1 23 have stayed away, leaving most of buildings and arcades that cover in town, so we can really relax and the retail space for unique shops and both sides, but for the spectacular enjoy the peace and quiet, amidst galleries. Renaissance fountains down the the spectacular setting of Alpine middle. Two covered arches at peaks all around us. Our first This historic section is only five both ends of the Marketgasse block orientation walk will take us through blocks long and five wide, ideally include the famous Clock Tower, the village past the various shops suited for a walking tour, immersed the oldest building in town, whose and restaurants, and point out the in buildings that have not changed astronomical clock still works after cablecar and mountain rail lines. much since the Middle Ages. It is 500 years. Try and be at the clock four minutes before the hour to catch ZERMATT the whimsical parade of mechanical bears, armored knight, jester, lion Our next destination is just a few and Father Time celebrating the hours away by train, through more moment. Einstein lived on this postcard scenery, past picturesque main street for eight years while mountain pastures, across rushing torrents, and through steep-sided narrow valleys, which brings us to Zermatt. We settle into this popular village and look up to see the most such a historic gem the town center famous mountain in all of Europe, This first afternoon will be a good time has been designated a UNESCO the Matterhorn, which rises to an to ride the comfortable Gornergrat World Heritage Site. The historic rack railway, one of the highest in center of Bern is surrounded by Europe, for stunning look at dozens a sharp curve in the Aare River, of mountain peaks all around you. which defined the town plan, offered developing the General Theory of Here you will see dozens of snow- protection, enclosed the space and Relativity, and his house is now open covered mountains reaching above encouraged growth in a compact as a museum. 12,000 feet, displaying one of the arrangement of shops and homes most amazing mountain panoramas that fit perfectly together. We could There is a fine art museum, with the in all the Alps. This is the very center learn a lot about how to build our world’s largest collection of paintings of the Alpine structure. modern cities by studying these by Paul Klee, who lived nearby, organic growth patterns that evolved and many important European altitude of 14,070 feet in a distinctive over the past 900 years. masters, including a nice sample of vertical thrust-one of the most Impressionists. Another important dramatic sights in the world! The main street proceeds directly building is the gothic Cathedral, from the train station through the with the nation’s highest church We will enjoy a variety of activities historic center, changing names tower which you may climb for a here, including pleasant walks on five times in its five blocks, with birds-eye view of the historic center. the easy trails that lead out from the shops all along the way. This road is When finished, take the train back to village. There are no cars allowed remarkable not only for the ancient Interlaken for the evening. 24 pg 1 pg 1 25 On our second day you can experience small shopping malls. Here you can a most spectacular activity with a truly have it all. You can easily spend ride up Europe’s highest cable car to the entire day out in the mountains, the Kleine Matterhorn, at 12,533 feet, walking, riding, eating, and enjoying offering a close look at the famous the astonishing views. Matterhorn. People ski year-round at this extreme height, so you will see From here we embark on another lots of snowboard and skiing action. spectacular train journey that takes On the way back down you can get us from Zermatt out into the Rhone colored buildings, some with arcades off the cablecar at an intermediate days in Zermatt. It is one of the Valley, to Brig and the Oberwald and the people speak Italian, but yes, station and walk the rest of the way best places in the Alps for nature pass. You are getting the very best we are still in Switzerland. This is the down the mountain on a very easy, walks, ranging from the gentlest of Swiss engineering, with their southern part of Switzerland in the gentle trail through meadows filled stroll to more vigorous hikes in the unique ability to take a train almost region known as the Ticino where with wildflowers, and more majestic mountains. There are a number of anywhere, with utmost comfort. We we are visiting the town of Locarno. Alpine lakes with easy trails that change trains and then travel from This is a pretty little resort town will lead you there and back with no Domodossola to Locarno, one of the along the shores of Lake Maggiore. strain at all. The rewards are many: most glorious, scenic journeys in the beautiful views, uncrowded trails, world. The rail line passes through It’s a fascinating region of Europe fresh mountain air, downhill paths, 17 remote Alpine valleys, each with the best of both worlds: the wildflowers in bloom and scenic rest surrounded by majestic mountain romance of Italy and the efficiency spots along the way. peaks, in another miracle of Swiss of Switzerland, making the perfect engineering that brings you deep combination. This town has an Zermatt is one of Switzerland’s most into the Alps with complete safety Italian feeling even though we are favorite destinations, surrounded by and comfort. still in Switzerland. Most of the mountain views. It just takes a few gigantic mountains piercing the sky, locals don’t speak any Swiss German hours and is one of the nicest, easy with beautiful paths reaching out in or French -- just Italian and perhaps hikes of the tour. a little English, especially those who are working in the shops and We will find that there is a lot restaurants. Shop clerks and waiters to keep us busy during our two are multilingual and so you don’t have any problem getting taken care

every direction, calling you to come for a splendid scenic stroll. This LOCARNO famous resort offers old-fashioned charm with all the modern comforts. We’re travelling next to a rather Horse-drawn carriages or electric surprising part of Switzerland that carts - vigorous mountain walks, or you might not recognize at first: there relaxing cafes - quaint chalets, and are bright, colorful flowers, pastel

26 pg 1 pg 1 27 of, even in the little villages nearby. few little hotels sprinkled around in ancient Roman glass from 2000 You can easily find pizza and pasta, the old town, and of course some years ago found in the vicinity. They because the main cuisine here is excellent restaurants and a variety conducted some archaeological Italian. of shops and historic sites, including excavations outside and found many a castle and several old churches Roman artifacts on the site, among in the Italian Baroque style, with the original Roman arches and walls. charming old-fashioned architecture The castle is conveniently on the throughout. Piazza Grande is the edge of the old town of Locarno so main square with a picturesque piazzas tucked away on the side just takes an hour for the complete arcade along one side with lots of streets as well. You could easily visit. The church of St. Francis is the restaurants, gelato shops, cafés and spend a few hours just meandering oldest in town, dating from the 14th little stores to browse in, with a and strolling, getting a little bit lost century, with a nave dating from nearby morning food market. They -- but you’ll quickly find your way 1528, presenting a mix of the Gothic also have a casino where you could again in such a little place this. style and the early Renaissance. This Locarno has a Mediterranean try your luck. climate, so you will even find palm One of the main historic highlights trees growing – quite surprising for is the old Visconti Castle, where you Switzerland! In late May and early can have a look inside at the display June the temperatures are just perfect featuring period rooms with ceramics for sitting outdoors and enjoying the and glassware, along with artifacts very pleasant temperature, perhaps from the surrounding region. There at one of the sidewalk restaurants are original frescoes on the walls near the main square. and well-preserved old columns with various ancient architectural details. This Castle has a primitive Locarno’s Old Town extends for feeling -- you could almost be back about six blocks by four blocks so in the day 500 years ago when there it’s not really huge but it’s big enough were some elegant banquets in these to enjoy a nice stroll and browse in rooms. They’ve done a very nice job the shops, art galleries and antique renovating the Castle and installing stores. Shopkeepers are friendly modern display cases, some with and welcome you to come in to look around. You’ll find quite a few is a nice cool sanctuary in the midst modern stores intermingled with of this quiet little town. The old town is lined with narrow the old, scattered among the hidden streets, and in the center cars lanes and quiet spaces in the back of are prohibited – it is strictly for the town. There’s a nice shady, cozy pedestrians which makes the town feeling in the narrow alleys where lovely for walking. Nice and quiet you can walk from one end to the and peaceful here and there are a other. and there are some smaller 28 pg 1 pg 1 29 Some valley scenes look like they LAKE MAGGIORE ASCONA popped right out of a postcard, with old stone arched bridges and clusters Another entertaining activity Another wonderful activity is a short of stone houses, many of which are bus ride over to the nearby village of abandoned now. The buildings are Ascona, which only takes about 12 made from rocks quarried nearby minutes on the city bus, or you can – there is lots of good quality stone go by boat from Locarno. Ascona available in these valleys so local is a pretty little waterfront village builders took advantage of this -- another one of these picture to enjoy is a boat ride on Lake postcards come to life. It’s got the VALLEY EXCURSION abundant material to construct sturdy homes that have stood for Maggiore, a huge lake, 40 miles long expected waterfront promenade with Another great activity to enjoy centuries. Most of the residents – the second largest of the Italian shops, town church, an open market, while in Locarno is to head into the uprooted themselves in the 19th Alpine lakes after Garda. The lake mountains where you can choose century due to poverty and moved goes for many miles into Italy, to from several different deep valleys, Stresa and the Borromean Islands, including Val Verzasca, Val Maggia but you can just take a short boat and Valle di Campo. They are easily ride for about 15 minutes across this be reached by a scenic public bus ride little inlet of the lake to the village in less than an hour. These valleys go of Magadino. Boat traffic begins deep into the Alps, covered in green early to serve commuters, so you can go down to the lake and take an early morning ride. You get a nice view from the boat looking back at sidewalk cafés, some arcades, and Locarno and can see how the village quite a few streets that are just for to California where they established is surrounded by the mountains, pedestrians in that typical European a winegrowing industry that they with snowcapped peaks in the style. It’s a little resort town with called Italian Swiss Colony, still a distance and the valleys beyond. pastel colored buildings, small boats famous name today. The people still There are some much longer boat bobbing in the marina, tiny back forests and dotted with small villages, living here seem to be doing fine: rides available on Lake Maggiore: lanes for an aimless stroll, enough offering some easy walking paths this is modern Switzerland after you could go for 3 1/2 hours if you shops to keep you busy, a main along the rivers. You might enjoy a all, which has a strong economy. wanted to travel to Isola Bella in the pedestrian artery, and there are at little stroll for about a mile all along The occupied buildings are nicely Italian part of the lake, near the town least one dozen excellent restaurants the stream on a level dirt trail that is maintained, but they look ancient, of Stresa, but that would be a full-day here, so you will not starve. very comfortable, winding through kind like hobbit homes that have round-trip excursion. Next we travel by train to Zurich. a pleasant forested valley. Anytime just grown up organically out of the you feel a little tired you can walk earth. back to the road and catch the next bus coming by, perhaps stopping for refreshments at one of the villages.

30 pg 1 pg 1 31 ZURICH for two days -- especially when This charming, compact citystashed away in corporate basements you consider the main visitor is situated on the picturesque beneath your feet. The neighborhood Zurich is among the world’s best attraction: a beautiful Old Town waterfront shores of Lake Zurich, between Bahnhofstrasse and the city to live in, with some of the the of cobbled lanes lined with historic with the Limmat River running river offers a lovely chunk of the highest quality of life, according to buildings and numerous fine shops through the center of town and the Old Town to wander through, with recent studies -- so it is also a perfect and restaurants. It is delightful to several important historic sites to place to visit. While most people wander in this large pedestrian zone see. know its reputation as a modern that is filled with enchanting little banking center, you will be surprised alleys which lead through an ancient The modern part of town extends to discover the historic charms town founded during the Middle beyond the historic center for of its extensive Old Town, among Ages. With the right strategies you several miles and includes a greater the largest in Switzerland. Zurich can see this slightly expensive city metropolitan population of one is ranked number one because of without spending a fortune. It’s an million, but the visitor doesn’t its superb cultural, economic and easy city to cover on foot, which is need to venture into those distant environmental conditions, and for always the best and cheapest way to high scores on other important social see any historic town. snow-capped Alps visible in the criteria, as determined by the Mercer distance. The Old Town extends Human Resource Foundation’s Zurich might conjure up images about five blocks in from both sides annual study. Its residents have the of conservative bankers and of the river and stretches for about world’s strongest purchasing power, businessmen in pinstriped suits a mile. The right bank, or east side, primarily because of their high and the world’s third largest stock of the river has the larger cluster of incomes, in this is financial capital exchange, but the city throbs with old buildings and is considered the and largest city of Switzerland. prime district for visitors. Much of your first day can be devoted to Visitors can take pleasure in its exploring its many little side alleys neighborhoods. Our suggestions wonderful lifestyle, enjoying and shops. will enable you to fully explore the friendly, efficient services while Old Town and get the most out of exploring many fascinating sights. Across on the left bank you will your time, including visits to the With just under 400,000 people, find Zurich’s most famous street, surrounding mountain scenery and Zurich is an ideal place to stay the Bahnhofstrasse, running about some nearby towns. 1,200 yards from the main train station to the lake, and lined with Day One: walking tour of the Old culture, fashion and a zest for life elegant stores, department stores, Town approaching that of Paris, Rome restaurants and small boutiques. It and London, but without the crowds is a lively yet quiet street scene for it Day Two: museums, shopping and and traffic congestion of those larger is limited to pedestrians and trams. a boat ride cities. The Swiss are famous for their This is shopping central for ladies efficiency, safety and cleanliness, but clothing as well as a business center you might be surprised by Zurich’s for many major banks and offices. hip style and cutting-edge scene. Billions of dollars in gold bullion are 32 pg 1 pg 1 33 life at its best. Most shop interiors For help in locating the various are quite new but the exteriors are sights and streets it’s always good to vintage. Conditions really don’t get have a map whenever you wander much better than this. through little lanes so that you know what you have covered and where to LINDENHOF go next; otherwise, you might end up going in circles, wasting time and A good place to start is where the getting slightly lost. Free maps are city began, at Lindenhof, a small, widely available from hotel desks tree-covered park on a low hill DAY ONE: Old Town and the Tourist Information office century during a citizens revolt. at the main train station. It’s also Since then, further construction Today’s itinerary could be useful -- and can lead into some has been forbidden to preserve it as summarized as simply wandering interesting conversations -- to ask a small urban park. They say that up and down nearly every little directions from the locals, who are Charlemagne visited the palace in lane in the Old Town, which is an quite friendly and generally speak the early 9th century and conducted ideal version of the best imaginable English. negotiations with leaders from the collection of historic buildings set south of Europe to solidify his Holy amid a delightful tangle of narrow, Roman Empire. cobblestone pedestrian alleys. Disney could not have done it better, Exit Lindenhof down the south but this is the real thing. Leave it overlooking the heart of town. Like steps along Platzgasse, which will to the Swiss to preserve their past many European towns, Zurich was lead you past one of the few Roman and maintain these 500-year-old founded by the Romans, who set ruins visible in town -- a simple up headquarters on this hill as an From Lindenhof you gain a fine view marble column on your right with outpost for their expanding empire. across the river to the main section of inscriptions containing the first It is believed the first scattered the Old Town, where you will notice known mention of the Latin name settlements sprang up four thousand the tall spires of the Grossmunster, for Zurich. years earlier as pole houses in the Zurich’s main church and signature lake, but those initial residents left sight, along with several other At the foot of the Lindenhof hill few artifacts. church steeples stabbing the sky. you face a maze of five little lanes Just beyond the bridge to your right radiating out in all directions, but Despite a lack of direction signs, is the elegant City Hall you can later buildings in perfect condition. There Lindenhof is easy to find: On the left observe up close from different is not a single ugly or boring moment bank, walk along Bahnhofstrasse to angles. Lindenhof today is just a park to break the spell. No modern Rennweg, which has been the main with lime trees, but in the past was buildings are allowed here, and street leading to the center since occupied by a variety of important everything is kept spotlessly clean, Roman times and is still an attractive buildings, from the Roman fortress so you are not going to see graffiti thoroughfare lined with shops. Take surrounded by a wall with twelve and trash, or beggars, addicts and the second left on Fortunagasse towers, to a major medieval palace thieves, but instead will be treated to which leads up to the park. which was demolished in the 13th 34 pg 1 pg 1 35 don’t worry about which way to go: enclosed by smart shops and more south to Fraumunster, another of this is a good place to get used to the Gothic buildings. Zurich does not the major churches and Zurich’s idea you are going in every direction. have a single, large market square, oldest building, dating back to but several scattered throughout the late 9th century. It began as a the Old Town, and Weinplatz is the

office has a lovely sidewalk arcade in the Florentine style. The lake shore is two blocks further -- the scene of a lively, morning market This cluster of alleys is really one of oldest, with ultimate origins as a selling flowers, cheese, breads, fruits the nicest parts of the city, so walk Roman port. flat-roofed Romanesque convent and vegetables. Those interested in a few short blocks along one route and was expanded into a gothic taking an extended walk along the and circle back along a different In the midst of this special network church around 1280. The striking lake can enjoy a scenic stroll from the lane to where you started, then pick of alleys you can’t miss the towering pattern of pointed arches inside is lively Burkliplatz, where excursion another circuit. You could spend steeple of St. Peter’s Church with overshadowed by the church’s main boats dock, to the more tranquil, an hour covering this little patch Europe’s largest clock: 28.5 feet treasure -- stained glass painted by tree-lined Arboretum gardens, six of short lanes, including the lovely across, 500 years old and still keeping Marc Chagall when he was in his 80s. blocks west. accurate time. The quiet little square next to the church is one of the most Next door is the Stadthaus town hall, BAHNHOFSTRASSE charming spots in town. St. Peter’s built in 1898-1900 in the Gothic style, is Zurich’s oldest parish church, first with a lovely courtyard resembling a This completes your look at the built in the 7th century with the cloister, accompanied by old scenes Romanesque tower added during painted on the walls. Beyond this the 13th century. It’s worth taking point, the buildings in the next arcaded path along the river called a quick look inside at the Baroque few blocks are large, 19th century the Schipfe. stucco decorations. structures of minor importance, although the Fraumunster post Be sure to have a good look at When you have finished exploring Augustinergasse, which has a perfect all the lanes surrounding St. Peter’s, atmosphere of ancient buildings continue walking a few short blocks left bank portion of the Old Town. arrayed on a gentle curved path, Rather than continuing directly luring you along by revealing more across the Limmat River to visit the charming structures until it reaches larger section of old Zurich on the the busy Bahnhofstrasse. Another right bank, save that for later in the fine spot is Weinplatz, along the afternoon and instead walk along river: an enchanting small square the elegant Bahnhofstrasse, one of 36 pg 1 pg 1 37 also has a restaurant upstairs and a right bank in what is conveniently big chocolate counter -- oh yes, called the Niederdorf, after the main Swiss chocolates, one of life’s great street of this side. rewards, which you can order from home through their web site (www. NIEDERDORFSTRASSE spruengli.ch). For a heartier meal at Paradeplatz, try Zeughauskeller, Niederdorfstrasse is one of the great the city’s top beer hall, serving historic streets of Europe, perfect in traditional heavy meals washed every way. It has been the main lane of Zurich since the Middle Ages and Europe’s finest boulevards, lined with down with plenty of suds. with other lanes, but mostly it is just is still the major route for visitors thriving, modern retail frontage from twenty feet across. This medieval to explore today. Niederdorfstrasse end to end. No cars or trucks disrupt street curves here and there, and rises stretches for nearly one mile from this pleasant shopping atmosphere then drops slightly as it continues in the train station area to beyond -- only pedestrians and quiet electric a most pleasant pattern. the cathedral and is limited to trams gliding by. This is how a city pedestrians the whole way. Typical should function and could serve as a Dozens of small lanes branch off both of European streets, it changes model for any metropolis aspiring to sides leading further into the magic names a few times, becoming show a human scale in the middle of of the Old Town. The neighborhood Munstergasse, Hirschenplatz and its urban center. is just the right size: small enough so Oberdorfstrasse, but is basically the you cannot get lost or exhausted but By now you should be more than A favorite restaurant choice near same road throughout. large enough to keep you discovering ready for lunch, and it will be no Bahnhofstrasse is Europe’s oldest new sights for a couple of days. You What makes this lane so special? surprise this city is loaded with vegetarian restaurant, Hiltl, in can easily fill out the afternoon by Paved with cobblestones and lined wonderful food choices in a wide business at this location under the meandering through this fascinating range of prices. If you’d rather same name for 106 years, so they network of alleys, exploring the little have a snack at a café, visit the must be doing something right. Dig shops and enjoying the variety of famous Sprüngli, open since 1836 in to their enormous buffet loaded traditional Swiss buildings. at Paradeplatz, a busy transit plaza with dozens of delicious, healthy chockablock with major bank choices, then weigh your plate at Anyplace you turn along this main headquarters, three blocks from the the cashier and sit where you like pedestrian route in the central heart lake end of Bahnhofstrasse. Sprüngli -- ground floor, upstairs or at the of the Old Town is a delight but there sidewalk tables. Eat here first and you will surely come back another day or night for more.

RIGHT BANK with historic buildings hosting modern shops, cafes and restaurants, Plan on spending the afternoon Niederdorfstrasse is a place to linger exploring the main section of Zurich’s and enjoy. Sometimes it widens to Old Town, across the river on the form small plazas as it intersects 38 pg 1 pg 1 39 are several exceptionally picturesque street of early Zurich. house restaurants along the river insights about the Old Town there lanes you want to be sure to discover, near the City Hall, such as Zunfthaus is an organized 2-hour walking tour You’ll want to drop into many of especially around the mid-section zur Zimmerleuten or Haus zum leaving from the tourist information the stores in this district to see what where the street widens to form the Ruden. office in the main train station at treasures are hiding behind their connected plazas of Hirschenplatz 3:00pm daily, and also 11:00am small windows. One food shop you After dinner take another stroll along and Stussihofstatt. Walk the broad, Thursday-Sunday in the summer. tree-lined block of Spitalgasse to would enjoy is Schwartz, selling Niederdorfstrasse to experience the gothic Prediger Church (dating dried fruits, nuts, fresh-roasted its evening character, especially GROSSMUNSTER from 1230) with its mix of later coffee beans, chocolate and many beautiful as the lights come on and baroque decor and the town’s tallest gourmet treats, with a casual café twilight lingers in the sky as people As you continue along the main tower reaching up 300 feet. Several on the corner. A hidden gem is the flock to and from the many popular pedestrian lane of the right bank fine alleys lead away from the Café Schober, set back from the road bars and restaurants. you will reach the main historic site church plaza, including the narrow behind bushes, but worth finding of town -- the Great Cathedral, or Predigergasse and Brunngasse. for its pastries, tea service, dark DAY TWO Grossmunster, a huge Romanesque Teuscher chocolates and festive 19th church dating back to 1106. After meandering through these century interior. A great way to begin the second day is lanes, walk along Rindermarkt to take yet another leisurely stroll along This is where the Protestant Neumarkt, one of the town’s finest For dinner there are a number the main lane of Niederdorfstrasse to Reformation began in Switzerland junctions which dates back to 1145 of very good restaurants along its end at Ramistrasse, catching a few with the fiery sermons of Huldrych Niederdorfstrasse, such as at the more sights you might not have had Zwingli in 1519, two years after time for the first time around. This Martin Luther began his crusade in busy pedestrian path is endlessly Germany. An earlier church on this fascinating any time but in the site was reputedly founded in the morning has a serene mood since early 9th century by Charlemagne, most of the shops do not open until the Holy Roman Emperor. The 10:00 a.m. It is such a special street monumental Romanesque interior you will find it worthy of repeat visits is rather plain, stripped of all throughout your stay in Zurich, rain or shine. This area is very easy to and still has some original buildings, explore on your own, but if you especially the famous Grimmenturm, Hotel Adler’s Swiss Chuchi on feel a need for additional historical a 12th-century gothic tower of the Rosengasse, but you might find less with a popular restaurant in front, touristic dining on the nearby side Kantorei. Duck inside Number 4, lanes, with lower prices and a more the city archives of Zum Rech just relaxed atmosphere. Any time you across from the fountain, to view can get slightly away from other a free display of Zurich’s history tourists, food quality usually goes including a scale model of the Old up and prices go down, no matter pictures during the Reformation, Town’s evolution, clearly illustrating what city you are in. For a high-end but be sure to appreciate the stained how Niederdorfstrasse was the first splurge try one of the upstairs guild glass and Switzerland’s largest crypt 40 pg 1 pg 1 41 with its large statue of Charlemagne. works and other pieces, housed in a Walk behind the Kunsthaus to the from the Stone Age up through the Look for the small cloister, reached newly-expanded building. Modern busy Heimstrasse, then turn right on 1940s. Two vast floors with lofty through an outside door to the left of artists represented include Picasso, Kunstlergasse which leads in a few ceilings take up most of a city block the cathedral entrance. The cathedral Matisse, Klee, Munch, Leger, Miro, minutes to the University of Zurich, and offer 80 different galleries filled is the symbol of Zurich, with its two Giacometti, Magritte, Kandinsky, Switzerland’s largest, with a campus with remarkable art and artifacts. huge 15th-century towers topped Mondrian, Rothko and Bacon. There that includes the Zurich Polytechnic Take a chronological approach by by 18th-century domes. If feeling is also a select sample of Late Gothic, and University Hospital. Together, starting with Neolithic stone tools, energetic you could walk up the west Dutch, Flemish, Italian Baroque and these academic institutions have pottery, burials and colorful displays tower for a stunning view across the Venetian paintings, including works produced more Nobel Prize winners describing life before agriculture city. by Canaletto, Rembrandt, Rubens, than any other city in the world. developed here, over 5,000 years ago. Domenichino and van Dyck. The collection of fine buildings is Continue into the medieval exhibits Leaving the Grossmunster, proceed enlivened by energetic students and with many rooms of Gothic religious a few blocks along the last stretch of While most travelers are not familiar staff moving along to their next art, weapons and furnishings. this main pedestrian lane, now called with Swiss art, this museum offers engagements. Located on a hill Upstairs, the Gothic-vaulted Oberdorfstrasse, then turn left on a fine opportunity to appreciate several hundred feet above town, the Armory is the most impressive single Ramistrasse to visit the Kunsthaus some excellent pictures by Johann campus offers good views of the city space, showcasing suits of armor, old art museum, just five minutes away. Heinrich Fussli, Ferdinand Hodler and the Alps beyond. The Polybahn, cannons, battle murals and related and other native painters. It can be an antique funicular, can take you paraphernalia. Decorative arts quite satisfying to discover relatively downhill to the town center or you on display cover a wide sweep of little-known artists like these who are could walk the short distance in ten history with ceramics, jewelry, silver, rarely exhibited outside Switzerland. minutes. embroidery and costumes. The Kunsthaus is small enough to breeze through in an hour, but the Most spectacular of all are the series art-lover will want to stay twice as of period rooms brought here from long. Those hungry for more art various castles, palaces and mansions, can explore some of the hundred assembled with their original galleries scattered through town. dark wooden walls and intricately carved ceilings, along with beautiful KUNSTHAUS windows, furniture, chandeliers and accessories. Walking through these Zurich’s main art museum not only ancient rooms is like traveling back showcases a large variety of Swiss five centuries to the Renaissance, work, but has a fine collection of SWISS NATIONAL MUSEUM for you are totally immersed in the paintings by Europe’s great masters displays rather than merely looking that cover a wide range of styles Behind the train station, the at objects sealed up in glass cases. and periods. By themselves, the country’s largest museum occupies a penetrating blue eyes in Van Gogh’s huge Neogothic castle built a century SHORT BOAT TRIPS self-portrait painted in his final year ago and houses a grand display of could make your visit worthwhile, but UNIVERSITY DISTRICT history illustrating the full length When finished with the museum, there are also dozens of Impressionist of human culture in Switzerland you could catch a one-hour boat tour 42 pg 1 pg 1 43 from the dock next door and cruise from Zurich to nearby towns and a boat trip there with a rail return. largest pedestrian Old Town zones, along the Limmat River through the mountains could take up much of Another lovely boat option is the with cobblestone lanes, hundreds of middle of town, giving you a swan’s- your third day: these include boat 90-minute nonstop circle cruise from medieval buildings, a castle, museum eye view of the neighborhoods you rips on the lake, rail journeys to Zurich to enjoy the lake atmosphere and plenty of restaurants. As usual, have been walking through. The nearby towns or a short jaunt up to and views. you could rent a bicycle at the train ride in a glass-topped boat continues the nearby mountains for a view. station to gain an easy overview, into the lake and along the shore then do some walking in the town to Zurichorn Park and Enge Hafen center. Claimed to be Switzerland’s before returning to the museum oldest city, Chur is 90 minutes dock, with a variety of alternate southeast of Zurich by train and also itineraries available. has a lovely medieval town center for pedestrians. Just follow the red footsteps on the pavement from the station and you’ll be in the old center in 10 minutes. Worthy of special TRAIN TRIPS LONG BOAT TRIPS attention are the Cathedral and An easy visit from Zurich is to the Bishop’s Palace, but the main appeal The main boat operator, Zürichsee nearby mountain-top at Uetliberg, is the extensive jumble of old lanes Schifffahrt, has 17 motor boats for 2,858 feet elevation, with a fine view lined with historic homes, charming tours ranging from 1 to 7 hours, with of Zurich, the lake and the Alps. It town squares, little fountains and flower boxes in a perfect setting. Another fun option is to borrow a meal and snack service on board. takes just 40 minutes to reach from (www.zsg.ch) Several long boat Bahnhofstrasse by walking to the free bicycle from the train station Day-trip possibilities from Zurich tours leave from the lake docks at Selnau train station and taking a and peddle around town. Simply are endless in this transportation hub Burkliplatz where the river leaves the short rack railway ride up the hill. put down a refundable deposit and of Switzerland. Of course, another lake, with itineraries to the far end of From here you could take various you can take a break from walking fine option is simply to stay put in the 25-mile long Lake Zurich or to hikes through the woods, including for a while. It’s an effective way to Zurich and continue your walking points in between. A popular route a 2-hour stroll along the ridge to expand your range and see some explorations, discovering more is the two hour cruise to Rapperswil, Felsenegg, where you can take a of the city beyond the center with hidden corners of this incredible city. minimal effort. Alternatively, you whose medieval Old Town enjoys a cablecar down to the S-Bahn for the could round out the day with a picturesque setting on a peninsula, short ride back to Zurich. Another shopping expedition along the complete with 13th-century castle, nearby town with wooded trails and Bahnhofstrasse, followed by a great fortified wall, pedestrian town center, views is Sihlbrugg, just 30 minutes meal. There are sometimes evening children’s zoo, lakeside promenade south of Zurich by train. musical events offered at the Opera and museum. The boat passes and other theaters in town. many wonderful, lake shore homes, Zug and Chur are two other major stopping at a half-dozen quaint towns within a reasonable distance OTHER OPTIONS villages along the way. You could from Zurich. The former only takes make the journey to Rapperswil by 25 minutes to reach by rail and offers A wide variety of day-trips available train in just 15 minutes, or combine one of the country’s prettiest and 44 pg 1 pg 1 45 Let’s compare our travel style with the typical bus tour: We travel by train: The train is comfortable, smooth, quiet, relaxing, and so fast it They travel by bus: Sitting on a crowded bus for up to eight hours on a long journey can gets you there in half the time. On the train you are free to walk around, have a meal in be very tiring. You are confined to a small space, and cannot move around at all. There is the dining car or enjoy a picnic lunch, and talk with some of the other travelers on board. no dining car, and often when you pull into a roadside cafeteria, long lines are waiting ahead First class trains are air-conditioned, so they are cool and quiet. The spacious seats are like of you. Restroom stops also slow down the journey and waste your precious time, and they sofas, and can recline to make you very comfortable -- you might even take a nap. You can might not stop when you need it the most. The “scenic view” is dominated by the highway use the clean, convenient bathrooms anytime you want. The rail routing is through scenic filled with trucks and cars. Buses often get stuck in heavy traffic jams on crowded streets, countryside, and you can move around to enjoy the views on both sides through picture with many other vehicles competing for your road space, which can produce a lot of stress. windows. Hotels on the edge, or beyond... You finally arrive at your hotel after an all-day Centrally located hotels: We have made a great effort to select fine hotels in the historic bus ride, and find that you are still far away from the main attractions of town. Your tour centers of the places we visit. This is extremely important, for it enables you to experience operator is saving money by putting you in a nondescript hotel on the fringe of the city. much more by just stepping out your front door. In such an advantageous location there There will be very little to see in your immediate vicinity, so you have to spend money and are many nearby restaurants, monuments, shops, historic sights, important buildings, time on a taxi ride into town, or you just don’t bother, and miss out. You are practically held landmarks, and other features that you have come on vacation to see. Our central hotel hostage in these remote locations, so your tour guide can sell you optional tours. These locations enable you to walk freely and safely through interesting neighborhoods, which is hidden expenses quickly increase the price you pay for the trip. All you are going to see is the best way to get to know a place. We want you to get the most out of your precious time, what the tour operator shows you on a brief bus tour, and that is usually a quick view of and really get a feeling for each destination. Nothing enhances that better than a good hotel highlights through the window, and then off to the next city for more of the same treatment. in a central location. This is probably our biggest difference in approach. Shopping in tourist traps: With the bus tour, during the brief time you have in a Shopping like a local: With us you always have time for shopping in local stores, or, if place, you are often herded into tourist-trap “factories” and “showrooms” for “bargain” you are not a shopper, use your precious time for other activities, instead of being led by the shopping. You are stuck on the bus, so you are at their mercy. If the tour bus stops at a nose into tourist traps. The historic centers of town are filled with fascinating and unique souvenir mill, you stop too, and there is usually no other shop nearby except the one they little shops that are fun to browse through, and we will point you to those neighborhoods have chosen for you. Your guide and driver are getting a commission for taking you there, and set you loose. If you are looking for any particular items, your Hawaii escort can take so that’s the place they want you to shop. some time to help you find them. Quick city tour: At best they might give you a three-hour bus tour, and that’s all. You In-depth city tours: We include several tours in each city, to give you a well-rounded are usually in town for only one night, and then leave the next morning, so there is little time look at the place. In the large cities we offer panoramic tours are on a motorcoach, and we for anything else. If there is any extra time, you will find the tour guide wants to sell you always provide in-depth walking tours with your Hawaii escort. Our guided walks really options that take you away from town, and if you don’t buy the option, they set you loose make you familiar with a place, and prepare you for some exploring on your own. Because with very little preparation, so you are on your own. Without proper guidance you might we are staying for two or three days, you have enough time for this, with time left over for end up wasting time and being unable to find the important sights on your own. But there your independent activities. We put a special emphasis on history and fine arts. The trips is no time, since you are already heading for the next city. If you get lucky you might have a are educational, cultural experiences, and they are also a lot of fun. Our walking tours will quick look in one museum, and the little bit of history that you hear is probably delivered in take you through historic neighborhoods filled with architectural treasures, and you have dry lectures on the long bus rides that just might...lull...you...to...sleep. time for museums and other cultural attractions. One-night stands: Most bus tours keep you moving all the time. You arrive in a city Leisurely pace -- quality time: We stay for two or three nights in each place. This late in the day, after driving for many hours, and then you leave in the morning for your gives us enough time to show you around with our tours, and then you actually have free next destination. The standard bus tour operators have devised exhausting itineraries that time so you can do some exploring on your own. This approach gives you the “best of both appear to show you all of Europe in 17 days, but when you analyze them, you are sitting on worlds” for the guidance we provide on our included tours helps you get the most out of your the bus most of that time! Unpacking every night, and repacking every morning, you don’t free time as well. With a proper orientation to a city, you can make the best choices for your have much time left for sightseeing. With a bus tour you have precious little free time for independent activities, and we are always there to help. This is how you really get a sense of you are on the go all the time. If it’s Tuesday, where are we now? All too often the quick place, and gain a feeling for the character of each of the cultures on the itinerary. stream of cities becomes a fuzzy forgettable blur.

Small groups, from Hawaii: We limit our group size to 28 people, which we Big groups, from everywhere: You really don’t know whom you are going to be Alps Comments from our travelers: We could not have done this on our of course I love to Mount Atlas. It was Dennis’ services were absolutely great. He knows his way around. Mahalo so own, with all the train changes, we never the first time I saw falling snow and that much for everything you have done for our group. Our trip was so wonderful and could’ve arranged it. We really have ice cave was interesting. Evie Ho fantastic, we will never forget this tour. Rose Abihai a chance to look at this from Dennis’ I enjoyed Lucerne very much, a beautiful Thank you very much for the adventure and enjoyable trip. I enjoyed riding the perspective, which is pretty good city, very relaxing. Jube Kuewa train, especially since we don’t have one in Hawaii. We also had a wonderful group. after all those years of leading tours to Europe. Thomas Nestor People were very, very nice in Lucerne. We’ll be calling you again for the next trip. Isamu and Janet Satogata We had a wonderful meal at the Old Best experiences: Getting up close to the famous mountain peaks in Swizerland The highlight of this trip is going to Swiss House. Thoroughly enjoyed such as the Jungfrau and Matterhorn....Walking the streets of Interlaken and Mount Titlis. I had never been way up in our cablecar ride up to Mount Titlis. Zermatt....The folkdancing. Very informative with areas visited carefully chosen the mountains before, so I really enjoyed Beautiful countryside, great time of the for beauty and interest. Dennis did a good job of caring for members of the tour. that part, and I also highly recommend year to be here I think. Kehau Kuewa Hotels were comfortable and well located. I’m glad we went! it to my friends to take this train ride, it’s a beautiful experience. Vi Nestor Everything is so picturesque in Lucerne, Ruth Lam and the people were friendly, and it’s I will recommend it to my friends. Of course the train rides were just sensational! Oh, I loved it, every bit of it. Walking, a real compact town making it nice to Very interesting. Janet Miyashita I thought I couldn’t handle it, but you walk around. We had a beautiful ride know what, I did it, and it’s beautiful. up to Mount Titlis and it was really Best experiences: Seeing the Jungfrau and Matterhorn and surroundings, plus all Lydia Pavao the Swiss villages, shops, etc. Especially enjoyed Zermatt and walks there. I thought exciting to be in the snow, and the cold the whole tour was excellent. I learned so much from your descriptions, which I love going up to the Alps. I dreamt was perfect for one hour and then we were so interesting. Ruth Akiona about this when I was very young, and had a beautiful ride back. We saw it all, till today it was something for me to we had the scenery, the snow, and then We thoroughly enjoyed the complete tour and the company of our traveling see. To go up there to yodel was the it cleared up and we had the view of companions and tour directors. Extremely well organized and informative. greatest thing for me. And we went to the mountains, with hot chocolate and Hugh and Sai Helvin the gambling casino and had a very snacks. Britt Nishijo Best experiences: 1) the hike down nice time, at least I can say I gambled in There’s always something to see every into Zermatt from Kleinne Matterhorn. Switzerland. Harriet Coelho second every minute, and when you’re 2) train trip to Murren. 3) trip to the We got snowed on at Mount Titlis. I walking in the town you don’t want to Jungfrau and the ice cave. 4) boat trip think we all had fun just getting into the stop, it gets better every step you take. on Lake Lucerne. This was a great trip! snow and writing up on the gondola, You might be tired, but the energy of Much more than I expected. Riding the just experiencing all of that. It was really the wonders around you gives you that train was great. I like the freedom of great. The trains are great. Just seeing magnetic feeling that you don’t want choice to be with a group or go off on the scenery and being able to look at all to stop, and we kept going and going your own. the countryside, just beautiful and so until sunset. We even went into the Norma Jean Ferguson relaxing to just sit on the train and take glacier tube – that was an experience Best experiences: 1) train rides in all the sites. Wes Maekawa of a lifetime, living inside a glacier. I to Murren, Lauterbrunnen and Jungfrau 2) seeing the mountains close up - Switzerland was really pretty. The ride on touch the walls, and again that magnetic magnificent, breathtaking. 3) walking on the mountain path down to Zermatt. 4) the train, I mean it’s so green and lush, feeling, I didn’t want to leave that tube Dining in restaurants and outdoor cafes. How can I ever forget the gelatti! The tour the rivers and lakes were just beautiful. because it was a life experience. We was very enjoyable and educational. We were able to observe and appreciate some I like looking out at the scenery were all had a great time, thank you. Manny of nature’s best scenery in the world. Trains are excellent for travelling. The tour the homes are on the hillside, it was just Domingo was flexible to meet the needs of the members. Tour escorts blended very well with beautiful. Gladys Nishioka I really enjoyed Zürich, so beautiful, the the group and made all of us feel comfortable. Choice of hotels and breakfasts was buildings look like they are all freshly very good. This is one of the best tours I’ve taken. I will cherish the memories of I love the train. The seats are comfortable and the scenery is really nice, I can take painted, hardly any graffiti. You feel like the Alps. I’ve been recommending it to my friends. you’re in a fairytale city, so it was very Millie Fukumoto. pictures, I was amazed. The flowers and the plants are so green and lush. I could beautiful. Janet Apostol not get over how neat the farms are and 48 pg 1 pg 1 49 SWISS ALPS by TRAIN Date and Price To Be Announced

Our price includes: first class rail tickets; transfers to and from airports and rail stations; hotels with breakfast everyday; all city tours and walk- ing tours. Not included in tour price: lunch and dinner; tips; all admission charg- es, such as to museums or palaces; optional tours. We are limiting the size of the group to about 18 people, making a nice small-sized group.

Videos of this tour are on our web site: www.toursbytrain.com

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