The Rhine River

THE RHINE RIVER

THROUGH THE HEART OF EUROPE Foreword Welcome! You have chosen the most rewarding way to enjoy Europe’s legendary rivers, magnificent scenery and enriching history.

On an Avalon Waterways river cruise, our goal is to ensure your journey is memorable from beginning to end. Views become epic, your ship trans- forms into a relaxation center, and your meals become experiences.

Each ship in our young fleet is designed to provide amaz- ing views and comfortable spaces throughout, inviting you to stretch out and relax, or to gather with new friends. River cruis- Copyright, Distribution, Concept, Production Management: ing’s largest staterooms and suites transform into your home away from home, as you’ll awake to a panoramic view of a new

The company projekt–ard specializes in the production of texts, imag- destination each day. And the special touches we’ve added are es and maps for tourists. For details about all of the company´s prod- countless, but all add up to one-of-a-kind cruise experience. ucts, see our homepage: www.projekt-ard.de With Avalon, each meal is a part of the experience, crafted from The company eg-media specializes in the production of photogra- the freshest local ingredients, with regionally influenced reci- phy, films and texts relating to all aspects of tourism and travel; its pes and wines that bring the region to life. clients include major international tour operators. photography, film and texts www.eg-media.com. Plus with Avalon, your shore experience is never an after- thought, as we’ve included the very best land excursions in each General Organization: Armin Rausch (projekt–ard) destination, knowledgeable local guides and personal head- The Author: Pia Rosbach (eg-media) Translation: Andrew Cowin sets. You travel with industry experts backed by a rich heritage Layout: Tim Reichenthaler of 80-plus years experience. Maps: Huber Medien All of the photographs in this book were taken We’re looking forward to having you aboard, so sit back, relax by eg-media (Einhard Giehrl) except the following: and enjoy river cruising at its finest. p. 17 below (Håkan Svensson); p. 70/71 top and center (Koblenz-Tourismus); p. 82/83 (Düsseldorf Marketing & Touris- mus GmbH); p. 138 below (Andrew Cowin); p. 264 top (Stadt Bamberg); p. 271 top (Würzburg-Tourismus); p. 297 (Audi AG, Ingolstadt); p. 323 (Matthias Köhne) p. 390 below (Serbisches Tourismusamt); p. 418 below; p. 420 below-left and right (rumaenien-tourismus.de) Bon Voyage! ©iStockphoto.com: Thomas Bredenfeld p. 6, TommL p. 8-9, Gmalandra p. 8–9, Damir Spanic p. 12, Terry Lawrence p. 12-13, Gregory Olsen p. 14–15, AndreaAstes p. 15, Andrey Kiselev p. 16, rusm p. 16–17, Josef Muellek p. 18, Tatsiana Aliak- seyeva p. 18–19, Sergey Korotkih p. 22–23, Davor Ratkovic p. 22–23, pop_jop p. 22–23, Mervana p. 25, pialhovik p. 103, CGinspiration p. 251–252, Yuriy Kirsanov p. 308–309, Björn Kindler p. 336, xyno p. 343, aprott p. 349, Brian Raisbeck p. 354–355, Alexander Dunkel p. 355, photo75 p. 362, visual7 p. 415–416, Johan Ramberg p. 429–430.

The information contained in this guide has been researched as carefully as possible. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for any consequences resulting from changes in information, errors or omissions. Patrick Clark All rights reserved. No part of the texts or photographs of this publication may be reproduced in President any form without prior consent of the publisher. (October 2012)

Rhine River The Rhine River Switzerland – A Country of Lakes Through the Heart of Europe and Mountains From Basel A cruise along Germany’s most imposing river takes one past to Mainz a fascinating range of landscapes during visits to such roman- The Romantic tic destinations as Heidelberg (on its tributary, the Neckar) Middle Rhine – and Rüdesheim, to historic cities like Speyer and Koblenz, to From Mainz cultural metropolises such as Strasbourg and Cologne, not to to Koblenz. mention some of Germany’s most important industrial regions. Koblenz – The Only City A definite highpoint of your Avalon cruise will be the trip along on the Rhine the romantic Middle Rhine Valley: here, impressive fortresses and the Moselle flanked by steep vineyards rear up over picturesque villages From Koblenz dotted with half-timbered houses hundreds of years old. The to Cologne . Rhine cruises offered by Avalon promise complete relaxation Cologne – Charac terful and are a joy both for lovers of culture and for those who just and Cheerful Rhine want to sit back and take things easy. But seeing is believing – Metropolis so simply enjoy! From Cologne to the Dutch Border.

THE RHINE – THE MOST IMPORTANT EUROPEAN WATERWAY From its source in Switzerland to its confluence in the North sea via its vast delta in The Netherlands, the Rhine has a course 820 miles in length. Until the river was regulated during the 19th century, the Upper Rhine, i.e., the stretch of the river between Basel and Bingen, was up to 3 miles wide and was continually changing its course. Since the completion of the Grande Canal d’Alsace (in German, Rheinseitenkanal) with its system of ten locks in 1959, this section of the river is naviga- ble for large freight and passenger ships throughout the year. Owing to its shallows and strong currents, the Middle Rhine between Rüdesheim/Bingen and Koblenz used to present a severe challenge to river shipping, too, but the problems of this section have also been ironed out thanks to dynamiting of the riverbed. Once it enters Holland, the Lower Rhine splits into a confusing labyrinth of waterways and canals, with numerous side-arms emptying into the North Sea. The Rhine flows through six countries (Austria, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, France, Germany and The Netherlands) and often marks a national border throughout its course. It is Europe’s busiest commercial waterway and an important transport link with the North Sea. Via the River Main, the Main-Danube Canal and the Danube (a total course of about 2170 miles/3500 km), the Rhine is also linked to the Black Sea.

28 | Across Europe with Avalon Switzerland Country of lakes and mountainsRhine River

Guests taking an Avalon Rhine cruise fly into or from Zürich Air- H Zürich – Financial Metropolis shopping street that runs port – the perfect opportunity to get to know both Zürich and and Idyllic Pocket-Sized City through the heart of the city. nearby Lucerne. Since the second half of the Visitors soon discover that 19th century, this has become Switzerland – itan spas and elegant cities Zürich is a city that is cosmo- the chosen setting for numer- A Country of Lakes with their own special flair… politan, international and el- ous luxury hotels, major banks and Mountains Switzerland is most definite- egant – and this is nowhere and up-market stores selling ly a very worthwhile destina- more evident than on Bahn- jewelry and watches, as well Jagged Alpine peaks, lush tion. hofstrasse, the boulevard-like as expensive boutiques offer- green meadows and idyllic ing designer fashion. Howev- lakes, along with rustic old er, away from this boulevard, Zürich The Grossmünster mountain villages, cosmopol- On both banks One of Zürich’s many Zürich is also a city of historic of the Limmat fine churches Rhine River Rhine River

On the Limmatquai Lucerne guild-houses, of narrow medi- The historic City Hall located close to the famous The Old City with the Kapellbrücke eval lanes, lovely churches and Kapellbrücke. Like the nearby and Watertower famous museums. The city’s the River Limmat are all within Spreuerbrücke, this wooden main sights on both sides of easy walking distance. bridge is roofed and was part ly painted guild-houses, espe- of the town’s medieval defens- cially around the squares, the es that also included the long Weinmarkt, Hirschenplatz and fortified wall, the Museggmau- Kornmarkt. er. The quaint town center is characterized by beautiful- Historic paddle-steamer On Lake Lucerne

Tempting delicacies Made in Switzerland Made by Sprüngli, A guarantee of quality the largest producer of confectionery in Switzerland

esquely situated at the north H Lucerne on Its Lovely Lake end of Lake Lucerne (in Ger- A visit to Lucerne! The great man, the Vierwaldstättersee) American author, Mark Twain, with its many bays and be- treated himself to two lengthy low the Pilatus, the town’s ‘lo- stays in this delightful lake- cal mountain.’ The town sym- side town. Lucerne is pictur- bol is its historic water-tower Rhine River Switzerland

‘The Most Mournful and Moving Piece The Legend of Pontius Pilate of Stone in the World’ on ‘Lake Pilatus’ At the time of the French Rev- Why call a mountain ‘Pilatus’? For German-speaking people, olution, about 1000 Swiss the name immediately awakens associations with Pontius Pi- Guards served as the body- late (who they call Pontius Pilatus), the Roman who sentenced guard of the French king, Lou- Jesus to death. And, indeed, legend has it that there is a con- is XVI. When revolutionaries nection. Was this perhaps his last resting place? Maybe in stormed the Tuileries Palace in the now filled-in ‘LakeP ilatus’ near the Upper Alps? Suppos- Paris in August 1792, the Swiss edly, wherever one set about burying Pilate’s body, a dread- troops defended the palace to ful storm suddenly interrupted the proceedings. This is why the very last, even though the king and his family had long the high mountain now called Pilatus (previously Frakmont) since fled. Almost 30 years later, an officer who survived the was chosen, after which the weather was always stormy on its bloody event, Carl Pfyffer, commissioned the creation of a heights. The story goes that, every Good Friday, the Roman monument commemorating the bravery and loyalty of the governor of Judea rose from his damp tomb and sat in full Swiss Guards. This took the form of a dying lion carved into ceremonial dress to pass judgment. To prevent any further di- the natural sandstone. The inscription lists the names of the saster, it was considered inadvisable to disturb Pilate’s grave. officers of the Swiss Guard and records approximate numbers Thus, until the 16th century, Lucerne’s town council forbade cit- of the soldiers who lost their lives (760) as well as those who izens to climb the mountain on pain of severe penalties. survived (350). Mark Twain was greatly moved by the expres- sive power of this monument, as he recorded in his travel book published in 1880, A Tramp Abroad: ‘The shape is right, the at- titude is right, the proportions are right, but that indescrib- tending as far as the glaciers also see the world’s biggest al- able something which makes the Lion of Lucerne the most of the Jungfrau region. At the phorn with a length of almost mournful and moving piece of stone in the world, is wanting. summit of the Pilatus, one can 40 feet. The Lion lies in his lair in the perpendicular face of a low cliff— for he is carved from the living rock of the cliff...’ Practical Info: panorama restaurant but also to make the roughly 20-min- Make sure you are wearing ute walk to the so-called ‘Esel’ suitable walking shoes if you (‘Donkey’) or one of the other intend not only to visit the viewing points! Mount Pilatus – Lucerne’s Mountain of Myth and Legend

For the people of Lucerne, the Today, an excursion to the Pila- Pilatus used to be anything tus is on most visitors’ program. but a well-loved mountain on Many ‘scale’ the peak on the Pi- the town’s doorstep: rather, it latusbahn, the world’s steepest was the source of dangerous rack-railway, with a maximum storms and flash floods that inclination of 48% between wrought terrible destruction. Alpnachstad and Pilatus-Kulm As a result, it was regarded as (7000 feet). Having reached the home of dragons and sor- the summit, visitors are re- cerers – no wonder the moun- warded by an overwhelming tain is the setting for countless panoramic view over Lucerne legends and stories. and Lake Lucerne. The views also embrace no less than 73 peaks of the Alpine chain, ex-

View from Mount Pilatus Trulyhe Heart awesome of Europe | 35 View from ‘Little-Basel’ Toward the Old City Rhine River

The Kaiserstuhl One of the warmest areas of Germany From Basel miles wide flanked by the hills to Mainz of the Black Forest to the east (km 166–497) fully preserved Old City, and and the foothills of the Vosges its 40 or so museums make it Mountains to the west. During Your Rhine cruise will either a treasury of culture. Sever- periods of thaw, water flow- begin or end in Basel. al bridges and quaint passenger ferries over the Rhine link ‘Little Basel’ (Klein-Basel) on H Basel – A Center the right bank with ‘Great Ba- of Commerce sel’ (Gross-Basel) on the other with Charm side. On the fringes of the city, numerous international phar- A walk through Basel is like maceutical and chemical com- taking a trip back in time panies have taken advantage through every imaginable ep- of a location where the Swiss, och: from remains dating German and French borders from the times of the Celts join. and Romans, to fine medieval buildings like the Cathe- dral (Münster), to the modern From Basel architecture around the City to Strasbourg Theater. Basel has a beauti- Between Basel and Stras- bourg, the Rhine and its ac- companying canal flow The Spalen Gate (1370) A part of Basel’s medi- through the Upper Rhine eval fortifications Plain, a flat expanse about 25 Rhine River From Basel to Mainz ing down from the Alps reg- the right bank. However, pas- ularly used to cause the river senger ships and freight barg- Winning Energy to break its banks, leaving var- es actually travel along the from the Rhine ious arms, pools and swamps Grande Canal d’Alsace within when the waters again reced- the French border. The Rhine is not only the most important commercial waterway of Central Europe but is also important in the production ed. Thus, it is hardly surpris- of electrical energy. Along its course, one cannot help notic- ing that most towns along this Looking rather like an island ing a number of cooling towers of power stations (e.g., Fessen- section of the Rhine were es- rising from the Rhine Plain, heim at km 209, Philippsburg at km 390 and Biblis at km 445). tablished on higher ground the Kaiserstuhl (‘Emperor’s These are nuclear power stations, and this source of energy is whenever possible. Since the Throne’) is an approximately of particular importance in France (about 73% of all electrici- ty), but less so in Germany (about 22%). Hydroelectric plants regulation of the river and the 1815-foot-high massif of volca- on the river’s weirs also produce energy, albeit relatively small construction of several locks nic origin. This is one of Ger- amounts, i.e., less than 4% of the national total. and weirs, the danger of ex- many’s warmest and most fer- cessive high or low water has tile regions, and it enjoys a been almost completely elim- high reputation as a wine- tion meant that it was often a raced vineyards of the Kaiser- inated. On this part of the riv- growing area. bone of contention, and 85% stuhl on the right bank or the er, dense alluvial forests often of the town was destroyed at more distant vineyards of Al- block the view toward many of the end of the Second World sace on the left bank. the towns close to the Rhine. Breisach – H War. All that now remains of ‘City of Europe’ (km 225) the medieval defenses are the Just a couple of miles down- Radbrunnen Tower and some stream from Basel, your Safe from floods, this former sections of the old city walls. ship sails past the so-called fortified city was able to de- Dreiländereck (‘Three Coun- velop directly on the Rhine Located on a hill named after tries Corner’): the Rhine now thanks to its elevated site on it, the Minster Church (Mün- leaves Switzerland and forms a steep cliff. Its strategic posi- ster) of Breisach with its two the border between France on characteristically different tow- the left bank and Germany on Breisach on the Rhine ers rises impressively over the Minster Church roofs of the Old Town. Brei- sach has the distinction of having the title ‘City of Europe,’ because in 1950, its inhabitants were among the first to express unanimous approval of the idea of a united and free Europe.

Proceeding downriver, dense riverside forests means that one rarely catches much more than an occasional glimpse of the nearby towns or of the ter-

Breisach The Europe Fountain Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

Breisach is an excellent point of departure for an excursion to Freiburg and into the scenic Black Forest: Where Does the Name ‘America’ (round trip: about 70 miles) Actually Come From?

Freiburg – Gateway of the town’s streets is its so- ‘America comes from Freiburg,’ is an assertion you might hear while in the town. But don’t worry, this is only meant half seri- to the Black Forest called Bächle, the narrow rivu- ously. The fact is that the Freiburg cartographer, Martin Wald- lets that flow in channels origi- seemüller, presented a new map of the world on April 25, 1507, The university city of Freiburg nally intended to supply water showing a previously unknown fourth continent. Waldseemül- (220,000 inhabitants) enjoys needed for various purposes ler gave this new landmass on the other side of the Atlantic the name, ‘America,’ in honor of Amerigo Vespucci, the Flo- a very picturesque setting on (not for drinking, though) or as rentine navigator and explorer whom he mistakenly regarded the edge of the foothills of the drainage canals. as the discoverer of the ‘New World.’ Black Forest. Its wonderful, almost 800-year-old Münster Freiburg is an important cen- (Cathedral) with its famous ter of renewable energy. Nu- 382-foot-high openwork spire merous companies active H The Black Forest – Germa- Forest life and work over the would alone justify a visit. In- in this pioneering field have ny’s Largest Forest Region past four centuries is offered side, the stained glass (1505– premises on the outskirts of by the open-air museum, the 28) in the choir and the high al- the city. In addition, the scien- The Black Forest (in German, Vogtsbauernhof. Many typi- tar are especially outstanding. tific faculty of the University is Schwarzwald) is a landscape cal farmhouses and outbuild- The square around the Cathe- specialized in areas relating characterized by high hills, for- ings from the region dating dral (Münsterplatz) has many to the production of ener- ests, ravines, waterfalls and from the 16th to the 18th centu- fine historic buildings, includ- gy from renewable biological caves. The region is also gen- ries have been carefully dis- ing the so-called Kaufhaus materials, geothermic sourc- erally associated with the mantled and reassembled in from the 16th century and the es, water, wind and, above all, production of cuckoo clocks their original form in the mu- Archbishop’s Palace. Via the the sun. and delicious specialties like seum. Inside, one can see par- pedestrian zone, one can walk smoked cured ham and the lors and bedrooms furnished to the square, Rathausplatz, classic Black Forest gateau authentically, as well as barns with the Old and New City (Schwarzwälder-Kirschtorte). Freiburg’s Cathedral The Vogtsbauernhof Halls. A distinguishing feature Dedicated to the Virgin A good introduction to Black With its evocative Black Mary Forest farm buildings Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

Feel inspired to try baking your very own Black Forest gateau? and stalls with original tools daily life over a century ago. Here is the recipe: and farming equipment. Dem- And don’t forget to try a slice onstrations of traditional crafts of delicious, creamy Black For- and techniques using such est gateau! Black Forest Gateau tools give visitors insights into The production of original Ingredients: Black Forest cuckoo clocks Cake mixture has a long tradition in the – 6 eggs – 3–4 tbsp warm water area. The first of these were – 6 oz. sugar made about 250 years ago. – 3 oz. flour Nowadays, the workshops – 1 oz. corn starch (Gustin) – 1.5 oz. cocoa of traditional producers like – 2.5 oz. ground almonds Familie Herr not only carve Making the mixture: the wooden casings but also – Separate the egg whites and yolks – Mix together the yolks, water and 4 oz. sugar, make the functioning parts and beat until frothy and mechanisms of the clocks – Be at the egg whites until they form stiff peaks, themselves. and then fold in the remaining sugar – Fold the beaten yolks mixture into the egg whites before carefully folding in the flour, starch, cocoa and ground almonds – Turn the mixture into a greased springform and smooth the top – Bake in a pre-heated oven at 170°C for 50–60 minutes Black Forest – Remove from the oven and leave to cool overnight Cuckoo clocks Ingredients: Filling – 25 oz. stoned morello cherries Cuckoo clocks – 1/8 l cherry juice Traditional – 2 tsp corn starch craftsmanship – 6 cl Kirschwasser (cherry schnapps) – 3/4 l sweetened cream – 1 sachet or 2 leaves (soaked) gelatin – 2 tbsp icing sugar – 1 sachet vanilla sugar – coarsely grated dark chocolate Making the filling: – Reserve 16 of the stoned cherries for decoration – Bring most of the cherry juice to the boil; meanwhile, stir the corn starch into the remaining juice before adding this to the boiling juice, stirring all the time, and then adding the cherries – Be at the cream until stiff before stirring in the icing sugar and gelatin Preparing the cake for serving: – Cut the chocolate sponge cake into three layers of the same thick- ness. Sprinkle the layer to be used as the base with some of the Kirschwasser – Spread the cooled cherry mixture evenly over the base, and top this with a thin layer of whipped cream – Sprinkle the middle layer of sponge cake with the rest of the Kirschwasser before adding a thick layer of cream – Add the top layer of sponge cake – Spre ad the remaining cream over the top of the gateau before decorating with the grated chocolate and the reserved cherries Guten Appetit! Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

An excursion into Alsace from either Breisach Prettily skirting the foothills which the best known include or Strasbourg is a treat that you won’t want to miss. of the Vosges Mountains, the Eguisheim, Riquewihr, Ribeau- Route des Vins, Alsace’s wine villé, Obernai and Boersch. Alsace – The Best of France and Germany road, links one delightful wine Many of the route’s lovely Rolled into One village after another, among towns are still surrounded by their medieval defensive walls Squeezed between the Rhine penetrated by ancient gate- river and the Vosges Hills, ways. You will enjoy taking a the historic region of Alsace leisurely stroll amid such pic- - like the dialct spoken here - turesque surroundings with presents a curious mixture of countless half-timbered hous- French and German culture . es festooned with flowers: and don’t forget to find out for Quaint little old villages, cob- yourself why Alsace’s wines blestone lanes, medieval half- enjoy an international repu- timbered houses, enchanting tation! ancient fortresses, along with masterpieces of art and archi- One of the region’s gems is tecture – Alsace is an especial- the attractive and unspoiled ly lovely and interesting region small town of Obernai, whose of France. What’s more, it’s a central square, the Place du veritable paradise for those Marché, has a very pretty his- who enjoy savoring the finer toric fountain (Fontaine Ste- pleasures of outstanding cui- Odile). The square is flanked sine and wines. by the former covered grain market (Halle aux Blés) from Ribeauvillé 1554, as well as the City Hall A typical Alsatian town with a bell-tower nearly 200 Alsace feet high (Tour de la Cha- A ‘chocolate-box’ pelle). Numerous houses in region of France Obernai date from the 16th/17th Hotly Contested and Eagerly Coveted century. Over the past centuries, Alsace was an ongoing bone of contention between France and Germany. Sometimes it fell within the dominions of the one, sometimes of the other. The Alsa- tians themselves, though, simply carried on doing things their ‘ Vin d’AlsACE’ own way – and the result was a culture and traditions all of An Excellent Tipple their own and like no other. In contrast to many other French or German wines, the wines Precisely for this reason, this stretch of land about 120 miles of Alsace are not named after their region or vineyard of or- long and 30 miles wide between the Rhine and the Vosges igin but simply after the grape variety from which they are Mountains is a particularly alluring and interesting destination. made. Generally speaking, the white wines of the northern- And the landscape and the villages flanking the Alsatian Wine most French wine region are made using the following types Road are especially quaint and charming. Colmar, the third-larg- of grape: Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewuerztraminer, Sylvaner est city in the region is considered to be its ‘wine capital.’ How- and Pinot Gris. The only grape cultivated for making red wines ever, Alsace’s largest city and its cultural heart is Strasbourg. is the Pinot Noir. Rhine River Rhine River

Colmar The Koifhus

Colmar Colmar – A Jewel of the Alsace Region Popular attractions for visi- Petite Venise Breisach-Colmar: about 15 miles (25 km) tors are St. Martin’s Cathedral with its precious windows. deed one of the greatest of Colmar is rather like a large heavy loads; today, they are Other sights worth seeing in all German works of art. This and living open-air museum: loved by tourists, who choose Colmar include a number of is an altarpiece with folding countless striking historic hous- them for romantic boat tours fine old churches and the Mu- wings and three main central es dating from the Middle Ages during which you can see Col- sée d’Unterlinden, which con- panels: the first central panel and the Renaissance lend its mar’s low bridges and colorful- tains the Isenheim Altarpiece dramatically depicts Christ’s Old City a truly medieval char- ly painted half-timbered hous- (1506–1515), the main work of Crucifixion set against a ca- acter. Among its most beauti- es with beautiful shutters. Matthias Grünewald and in- lamitous background; the sec- ful and important buildings are ond shows a dazzlingly color- the former customs house, the ful Adoration of Christ flanked Koifhus, the Maison Pfister con- by wings depicting the An- structed by wealthy hat-mak- nunciation and Resurrection; ers, and the Maison des Têtes, while the third includes sculp- whose façade is adorned by ture and is devoted to St. An- over a hundred carved heads. thony. In the museum, the altarpiece is exhibited in such A part of the town that is an a way that one can view all of absolute ‘must’ is Petite Ve- the panels. nise (‘Little Venice’) located on the banks of the small river, the Few visitors are aware of the Lauch. This borders on the for- fact that Colmar was the birth- mer Tanners’ Quarter (Quarti- place of the sculptor, Fré- er des Tanneurs), which is no déric-August Bartholdi, who less attractive and enchanting. designed the figure of the Even now, small wooden boats Statue of Liberty in New York, can be seen sliding along the a small copy of which has been narrow waterways. In the past, Colmar Musée d’Unterlinden on show in the town for a few they were used for carrying The ‘Statue of Liberty’ The Isenheim Altarpiece years. Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

Fort Schœnenbourg: H Strasbourg – One of the Advent and Christmas peri- Part of the 420-Mile-Long Maginot Line (676 km) Wealthiest Cities of Medi- od. For over four centuries, eval Europe (km 292) Strasbourg has been the ven- With a tunnel system embracing series of fortified bunkers con- ue of the famous ‘Christkin- about 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of un- structed along France’s bor- Strasbourg is not located di- delsmärik,’ one of France’s derground passageways, Fort ders with Germany and Italy. rectly on the Rhine but amid oldest Christmas markets. In Schœnenbourg (to the north of These were built between 1930 several arms of its small trib- addition, the so-called ‘light Strasbourg) is the largest ac- and 1940 with the aim of resist- utary, the River Ill. Areas char- trail’ of lovely illuminations cessible system of fortifications ing a possible attack from Ger- acterized by romantic half-tim- makes an Advent walk through of the Maginot Line in Alsace. man or Italian forces. Howev- bered buildings, cozy wine the Old City quite magical. Ev- Located 56 to 100 feet below er, the Maginot Line was not taverns and, above all, its mag- ery year, a massive and color- ground level, a complete bar- an unbroken system of defens- nificent Cathedral ensure that ful Christmas tree with newly racks with kitchens, military hos- es, and its fortifications were a visit to this historic metropo- created illuminations adorns pital, power station, arms stores constructed largely with the lis is a truly memorable expe- one of the city’s main squares, and command posts can be vis- aim of repelling an infantry as- rience. As the seat of several Place Kléber. ited. When in service, this for- sault. As a result, the Maginot European institutions, Stras- tress was manned by between Line was of little use against bourg has also become a sym- 510 and 630 soldiers. attack by German tanks; thus, bol of the idea of a unified Eu- after the short, sharp Ardennes rope. Named after the French Min- offensive spearheaded by ar- View from the Ill ister of Defense, André Mag- mored divisions, France had The squares and lanes by the The Cathédrale Notre- inot, the Maginot Line was a little option but to surrender in Cathedral are illuminated by Dame (1176-1439), one of the world’s largest June 1940. thousands of lights during the sandstone buildings (469 feet tall) Practical Info:

As the temperature in the fort is a constant 13°C, do wear appropriately warm cloth- ing as well as good walking shoes!

Fort Schoenenbourg The former entry point for munitions is now the main entrance for visitors Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

Possible Enhancement: Boat tour on the Ill ‘United in Diversity’– T heM otto of the European Union (EU) It goes without saying that your tour guide will show you The EU is an organization with a membership of 27 Europe- an sovereign states, whose sphere of responsibility has, since all of the city’s most important 1992 (Treaty of Maastricht), extended beyond merely econom- and attractive sights. Howev- ic matters to include such political areas as common foreign er, if you feel inspired to ex- and security policies. The origins of the EU extend back to plore a little on your own, the the 1950s when initially six countries (Belgium, West Germa- most pleasant and enjoyable ny, France, Italy, Luxembourg and The Netherlands) signed the Treaty of Paris. The initial goal was to cultivate econom- way to do so is to take a trip ic relationships with the aim of thereby hindering future mili- on one of the barge-like pas- tary conflicts while also creating a large common market that senger boats providing city would help to accelerate postwar economic growth. tours on the Ill. Among the In the meantime, 17 member states of the EU have introduced many historic sights on their a common currency, the Euro. In order that none of its mem- itinerary, these pass the old bers feels at a disadvantage, the EU does not have a capital city, and its governmental and administrative organs are locat- bishop’s residence, the Pal- ed in Brussels (e.g., Council of Europe), Strasbourg (e.g., Euro- ais Rohan, the Old Customs pean Parliament), Frankfurt (European Central Bank) and Lux- House (Ancienne Douane), the embourg (e.g., European Court). The organization’s ‘anthem’ pretty Tanners’ House (Mai- is an instrumental version of a melody from Beethoven’s Ninth son des Tanneurs) and the ro- Symphony, the so-called ‘Ode to Joy.’ The European flag has a circle of twelve golden stars that symbolize unity, solidarity mantic riverside quarter, Pe- and harmony among the peoples of Europe.

tite France, on the way to the Duration: about 70 minutes Strasbourg Cathedral ‘Covered Bridges’ (Ponts Cou- Point of embarkation: by the The famous astronomi- cal clock verts) and the defensive bar- Palais Rohan rage constructed by Vauban Petite France (Barrage Vauban). The seat of the European Parliament Strasbourg’s loveliest A fine example of contemporary riverside quarter architecture Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

The distance (one way) from Speyer or Mannheim Heidelberg University H to Heidelberg is only about 15 miles (24 km). The Old Hall

Heidelberg – A City for most important shopping prom- Lovers of Romance enade as well as the location of many beautiful buildings. During the warmer months of Don’t miss the electoral phar- the year, Heidelberg is literal- macy (Kurfürstliche Hofapo- ly besieged by visitors from all theke), built around 1700, the over the world. The reason: the hotel Zum Ritter, built in 1592, uniquely romantic atmosphere and the City Hall. Another un- of this historic university city mistakable sight is the Old Uni- and especially of Heidelberg versity where you can visit the Castle. Superbly sited above former students’ prison. the Neckar, its garden and ter- race offer delightful views over the city’s clustered roofs and lanes. Mark Twain’s travel writ- ing and the setting of the popular musical, The Student Prince, did much to establish Heidel- berg’s popularity among Eng- lish-speaking travelers. Many Americans are also aware that this lovely city houses US (until 2015) and NATO military head- quarters. In past times, the Ba- roque Old Bridge could be closed by a portcullis between the twin-towered Bridge Gate- way, where visitors to the city had to pay a special toll. Of the bridge’s sculptures, the most photographed is surely the bronze Bridge Monkey created in 1979. This commemorates an earlier sculpture from the second half of the 15th century who offered visitors a cheeky and ir- reverent greeting. Heidelberg’s main street which goes through the town’s historic center is the

Heidelberg Castle and the Old Bridge Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

From Strasbourg Karlsruhe – to Mainz (km 292–497) A ‘Planned’ City Speyer Cathedral Awe-inspiring Romanesque architecture After a few miles and two locks, Karlsruhe (c. km 360) is a rath- the Grande Canal d’Alsace er splendid residence city and reaches its end, and your ship is a good example of Baroque now continues its course along urban planning: its point of fo- the freely flowing section of the cus is Karlsruhe Castle, from Upper Rhine as it was regulat- which emanate 32 streets in ed and straightened accord- a fan-like pattern forming an ing to plans drawn up by Tulla arc. Behind the fine Castle in the 19th century. While some with its octagonal tower, there sections of the riverbanks make is a magnificent English-style a natural impression, others are park with broad green expans- flanked by large indus- es and a large lake. The central trial zones extending street leading from the main right down to the wa- Castle façade into the city ter. Several cities were ends at Marktplatz, where a established at a safe pyramid (1823) is placed above distance from the the burial vault of the founder Rhine, while others, of the city. like Speyer und Worms are situated directly on Speyer – City of the H the river. German Emperors er itself is a pretty, small town science, technology and trans- with a downtown area contain- port will want to seek out the One sees them from ing quite a few attractive old Technical Museum on the out- far away: the six soar- buildings. Those interested in skirts of the town. Karlsruhe Castle ing towers of the The octagonal tower largest and most sig- nificant work of Ro- The distance (one way) from Speyer or Mannheim to manesque archi- Schwetzingen is only about 12 miles (20 km) tecture in Germany: Speyer’s Imperial Ca- Schwetzingen Castle were added in the 1750s. After thedral. From the 11th and Its Gardens its completion under the archi- century, the church’s tects, Alessandro Galli da Bibi- crypt served as the Located a few miles from the ena and Franz Wilhelm Rabal- burial place of sever- Rhine roughly between Heidel- iatti, its wonderful gardens al German emperors berg and Mannheim, the town embracing contrasting styles and kings. It is thus fit- of Schwetzingen rose to emi- were designed largely by Jo- ting that the ‘Dom’ in nence in the Baroque period. hann Ludwig Petri and Nicolas Speyer is a UNES- It is principally known for the de Pigage. CO World Heri- Electoral Castle whose cen- tage Site. Spey- tral section was begun in 1697, The rather severe, circular Ba- while the two curved wings roque garden adjoining the Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

Castle leads into an English- ing lacks several elements rees leading away from this sug- tufa stone that has the form of style park that is enlivened by quired in a mosque, but the in- gest an ancient aqueduct. An a Roman tomb. This is just one a number curious architectural scriptions in Arabic present obelisk can be seen in the cen- of several Roman-style temples features. In the southern part aphorisms whose wisdom tran- ter of this ensemble. in the gardens. of the garden, a mosque with scends cultural barriers. two minarets is reflected in The Palladio Bridge, which is of- The Bath-House designed by the water of an artificial lake. Some follies in the garden are ten called the ‘Chinese Bridge,’ Pigage is a delightful little pal- Although actually used as a intended to recall Roman ru- really was designed accord- ace that looks rather like a Ba- mosque in more recent times, it ins. For example, in the north- ing to a draft by the architect, roque Italian villa. While Prince- was not originally intended as a west corner of the garden, Andrea Palladio, who was ac- Elector Carl Theodor allowed Moslem place of worship: rath- there is a ruined gateway with tive in Venetia during the Re- the public free access to the Neuwied Andernach Montabaur b e r g er, it was meant to be a sym- tower, while a series of arch- Maria Laach naissance. From here, one can rest of the gardens, the area Koblenz Limburg bol of tolerance and respect to- see the Temple of Mercury,Bad Nauheima around this building could only Bad Ems W Lahn Friedberg Freizeitpark e Burg Lahneck Lochmühle t ward all of the world’s cultures three-sided structureLimes made t eof be entered by persons express- Marksburg Hessen- r park Saalburg a u Burg ly invited by the owner. As a re- and religions. In fact, the build- The Mosque Eltz In Schwetzingen’s Castle Garden CochemMosel sult, Carl Theodor could live here as a ‘private person’ and Wiesbaden Frankfurt Rhine R h e i n g a u devote his energies to the arts

Main am Main p Mainz and music. One striking feature R. Grevenburg Mäuset. km 497 Rüsselshm. Aschaffenburg Bingen Auto- Nierstein of mus.the Bath-House’s enclosed km 482 garden is the fountain with jets Nahe Oppenheim Burg km 480 Breubergof water flowing from the beaks

aus- Edelstein- of birds into a central basin with ung mine

Birkenfeld an owl sculpture. Glan Worms Erbach km 443 Mann- Between Speyer and Worms St. Ludwigs- heim Wendel hafen km 425-429 Just a few miles downriver from km 421-431 Neckar Speyer, the industrial zones and

Neunkchn. Domp p Heidel- inland ports of Mannheim and Palatinate Mosbach ngbert berg Hambach Castle Speyer Ludwigshafen dominate the Burg Forest km 400 Guttenberg Philippsburg scene. For almost 4 miles, the Germersheim

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❚ Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

Oppenheim A delightful wine village

Worms Worms The gateway tower of Hagen sculpture the Nibelungs Bridge

Worms – The Wine-Growing The Treasure of the Nibelungs City of the Nibelungs Region, Rheinhessen If you are acquainted with Richard Wagner’s vast opera cycle, Worms – just like Speyer – once Worms is considered to be The Ring of the Nibelungs, the movie of the same name or the played an important role as an the ‘gateway’ to the major story by J.R.R. Tolkien, The Legend of Sigurt and Gudrun, you will already know at least part of the legend of the Nibelungs. Imperial city. Its Romanesque wine-growing region, Rhein- Cathedral of red sandstone hessen, which your ship runs The tale of the Burgundian king’s proud daughter, Kriemhild, and her brothers, Gunther, Gernot and Giselher, has its roots with round towers is the dom- alongside on the left bank be- in the break up of the ancient Burgundian kingdom around inant building of the city. This tween Worms and Mainz. Now Worms during the 5th century. After Siegfried from Xanten had was the venue for many Impe- and again, one sees a church killed a dragon and taken the treasure of the Nibelungs for rial parliaments (so-called Di- situated right in a vineyard, himself, he journeyed to the royal court in Worms. He wished to marry Kriemhild but was first obliged to help Gunther win ets), the most famous of which the most famous example be- Brünhild – Queen of Isenland (Iceland) – for his wife. She had took place in 1521, when Mar- ing the Liebfrauenkirche in sworn only to marry a man capable of beating her in combat, tin Luther refused to abjure his Worms, which is visible above something that Siegfried succeeded in doing using guile and 95 Theses with the immortal the Rhine riverbank, while the a magic helmet that allowed him to change shape. words, “Here I stand. I can do Church of St. Catherine oc- Years later, however, a terrible dispute between Brünhild and no other.” Worms is also close- cupies a lovely site above the Kriemhild was to have fatal consequences: not only the fam- ly associated with the medieval wine village of Oppenheim. ilies themselves but also their peoples were soon involved in bloody strife. Finally, Hagen, a powerful vassal of Gunther, German epic poem, the Nibe- Not far away, Nierstein is a took the treasure and cast it into the Rhine – a secret he took lungenlied. On the riverside no less picturesque center of with him to the grave. promenade, there is a sculp- wine cultivation. Directly op- During your cruise on the Rhine (and on the Danube, too), you ture showing Hagen throwing posite the confluence of the will often hear mention of stories and legends relating to the the treasure of the Nibelungs River Main in the Rhine, we Nibelung saga. back into the Rhine. now come to Mainz. Rhine River From Basel to Mainz

interior is the collection of the town: Johannes Gutenberg Tulla – episcopal tombs which date (1400-1468), the inventor of let- th th The Man Who Subdued the Rhine from the 13 to the 18 century. terpress printing. He paved the Even though Mainz has a good way for the ‘mass production’ Johann Gottfried Tulla (1770–1828) was an engineer born in the number of interesting church- of texts and books – one of the German state of Baden, who planned and implemented the straightening and regulation of the Rhine during the 19th cen- es like the Carmelite Church most important inventions of tury and thereby gave the Upper Rhine an entirely new ap- and St. Quintin, the most-visit- the second millennium. In 1999, pearance. Confronting difficulties almost unimaginable today, ed is the one dedicated to St. Gutenberg was awarded the ti- workers straightened and confined the river within banks be- Stephen, whose windows were tle ‘Man of the Millennium’ by tween 625 and 820 feet apart, as well as lowering the riverbed and inserting systems of dams and dikes. In addition to designed and installed by Marc A&E Networks. improving the Rhine’s navigability, this meant that settlements Chagall only a few months be- close to the river were less threatened by flooding, while dis- fore his death in 1984. Gutenberg’s masterpiece was eases like malaria were effectively wiped out. It was by far the the first-ever printed Bible pro- largest and most important technical achievement of its time, In the Middle Ages, Mainz was duced in 1455, of which an orig- and its effects are felt no less today than then. surrounded by a giant town inal can be seen in the museum. wall with watchtowers. Three of them, the Iron Tower, the Wood Johannes The silhouette of Mainz is char- Tower and the Alexander Tow- H Mainz and Johannes Guten- Gutenberg berg, the Man of the Millennium acterized by numerous tower, are well-preserved medieval The inventor ers. First of all, there are the examples of architecture that of printing using mov- Old and new rub shoulders six towers of the mighty Ro- still can be visited. Like most of able type quite happily in Mainz – in fact, manesque Cathedral (c. 1100) the city center, they were bad- this is a distinguishing feature which shaped the city’s histo- ly damaged during the Second of the city. Many historic build- ry. Over the centuries, the Ca- World War, but were later re- ings, monuments and muse- thedral has been continuous- stored to their original con- ums provide insights into over ly modified and expanded. The dition. Another noteworthy 2000 years of the city’s history. principal glory of the spacious building is the former Elector’s Palace in the Renaissance style, which today contains the Ro- man-German Museum. The Romanesque Ca- thedral of St . Martin More than a millennium Mainz’s most important tour- of city history ist attraction is the Guten- berg Museum dedicated to the most famous son of the

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Your cruise continues along the Main and Dan- ube? If so, for more information, turn to page 270 Rhine River From Mainz to Koblenz

H The Romantic Middle sions have gardens reaching narrow riverbanks. The valley and Mary Shelley wrote her Rhine – From Mainz down to the riverfront. Be- sometimes seems so narrow classic tale of horror, Fran- to Koblenz tween Rüdesheim and Koblenz, that one wonders how the river kenstein, very much under the river’s course deserves the can ever wind its way through. the impressions awakened by (km 497–592) name, the ‘Romantic Rhine’: a recent tour along the Rhine. The section of the Rhine be- here, steep cliffs and crags rise During the 19th century, it was Thus, it is hardly surprising tween Mainz and Koblenz is almost vertically from the wa- Britons above all who fell in that, even today, this mysteri- of striking scenic beauty. For ter, while romantic ruined for- love with the wild charms of ous and evocative landscape the first few miles, many of tresses enjoy splendid sites on the Middle Rhine Valley. The with its intriguing ruined cas- the gently undulating hills on hills rising up to about 1000 English poet and artist, Lord tles remains an unending the right bank have extensive feet, and villages from me- Byron, wrote ecstatic prais- source of myths and legends vineyards, while fine old man- dieval times nestle along the es of the romantic landscape, that further add to its charms.

The Middle Rhine A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992 Rhine River Rhine River

The Niederwald Monument With the statue of ‘Germania’ and particularly in the narrow From Mainz to Rüdesheim Burg Crass and Eltville Cas- Drosselgasse, the lanes are tle that once belonged to the flanked by one traditional wine H Rüdesheim – German In Biebrich, which is now archbishop-elector of Mainz. Gemütlichkeit at Its Best tavern after another. a suburb of the state capi- Oestrich also presents a very tal of Hesse, Wiesbaden, one attractive selection of histor- Wine, dance, romance: all this ‘Rüdesheim Coffee’ is a luxu- can find the so-called Hen- ic buildings to those passing and more is embraced by the rious warming drink that is a kell ‘Schlösschen’ (‘Little Cas- on the Rhine. These include German expression, Gemüt- treat for every occasion. The tle’) set among some fine an 18th century wooden crane lichkeit, a word that many tour- version offered in the Schloss mansions. In the first years of once used for loading and un- ists immediately associate with Rüdesheim is particularly deli- the 20th century, it was from loading wine barrels onto and the town, Rüdesheim. Here, cious. here that the Henkell Trock- off riverboats. Inside, it has en brand of sparkling wine be- two large wheels that need- gan a remarkable success sto- ed only two men to push them Recipe: ry that would make it famous and thereby wind in a pul- Rüdesheimer Kaffee throughout the world. Near- ley rope to lift loads on and Ingredients (per cup): by Biebrich Castle is one of off ships. This crane remained 0.2 l hot strong coffee the most important Baroque in use until 1926. Between 3 sugar cubes castles on the Rhine and was the wine villages of Geisen- 4 cl brandy (Asbach Uralt) a little sweetened whipped cream once a residence of the for- heim and Rüdesheim, one can grated chocolate mer counts (and later dukes) see the Convent of St. Hilde- of Nassau; it is now used by gard, which now houses an ac- Preparation: the state government of Hesse tive community of Benedictine – Place the sugar cubes and brandy for special events and ceremo- nuns. The convent was erect- in a fireproof cup, and ignite the brandy using a match nies. Eltville is often called the ed between 1900 and 1904 ‘town of wine and roses.’ From in the neo-Romanesque style – Allow to burn for about 1 minute, stirring all the time until the sugar has dissolved completely the ship, one can admire the and carries on the tradition rather splendid mansions and of Hildegard of Bingen, one – Pour in the hot coffee, stir well, top with some whipped cream, and sprinkle with grated chocolate houses that line the Rhine of the greatest women of the promenade, as well as ancient Middle Ages. Rhine River From Mainz to Koblenz

The Romantic Rhine called ‘castle romantics’ during town of Bacharach. The sym- spine-chilling tales that Hein- the 19th century. This same fate bol of this town, though, is the rich Heine incorporated into Like Klopp Castle above Bin- was suffered byStahleck Cas- ruined Werner Chapel, which his fragmentary story, The gen and ruined Ehrenfels tle located above the pretty is associated with a number of Rabbi of Bacharach. Castle above the opposite riverbank, the Mouse Tower located on an island in the Rhine The Romantic Rhine Oberwesel served as part of a system for extorting river tolls during the Middle Ages. The current be- comes stronger here, but the earlier perils once associated with the dreaded ‘Binger Loch’ were finally banished forever when the riverbed was deepened for the last time during the 1970s. Three great rocks that can still be seen in the river when its waters are low were part of a ridge of rock that once extended right across the river.

Around each bend of the river, it seems that one fortress after another heaves into view, for example, Burg Rheinstein, ruined Reichen- stein Castle, Burg Sooneck The Mouse Tower and Burg Hohneck, as well as On an island by Bingen pretty wine villages like Ass- The Legend of the Mouse Tower by Bingen mannshausen, Trechtings- (After the Brothers Grimm) hausen and Lorch. On aver- In 974, there was such a serious famine that many starved to age, there is a castle every 1.5 death. Seeing the plight of the common folk, the archbishop miles along the course of the of Mainz, a notoriously cruel and covetous prelate, said, ‘Gath- Middle Rhine. Many of these er all of the poor in a barn, and I will give them to eat.’ Howev- were constructed as toll-col- er, once they were all inside, he had the doors bolted, and set lecting fortresses during the the building on fire, so that all inside perished in the flames. Hearing the people’s screams and pleas, the archbishop shout- th 12 century and were then ex- ed, ‘Listen, listen, how the mice are whistling.’ It was not long, panded and strengthened as though, before God ensured that the churchman received his the Middle Ages progressed. just deserts. Mice appeared from everywhere, crawling all over In 1689, most of them were se- him and biting him day and night. Nothing he could do would stop them. So he constructed the island tower by Bingen in the riously damaged or destroyed middle of the Rhine. His plan to live there safe from the rodents by the troops of the ‘Sun King,’ was doomed to failure, as the mice simply swam across, climbed Louis XIV, but many were then In Bacharach up into the tower and ate the archbishop alive. restored and rebuilt by so- The Werner Chapel Rhine River From Mainz to Koblenz

Perhaps the most striking and ed for making different sorts Valley is the famous Lore- unusual castle to be seen any- of white wine, e.g., Riesling lei. About 120 yards high, this where in Germany, the tiny or Müller Thurgau. The town cliff has long been a subject fortress, Pfalzgrafenstein, is is dominated by two Gothic of legend and fantasy. How- located in the middle of the churches and has very well- ever, Heinrich Heine gave the Rhine on Falkenau Island near preserved medieval walls legend its final form in 1822, Kaub. Along with Stahleck and defenses. It is no wonder by imagining the existence Castle and Gutenfels Cas- that the people of Oberwe- of a beautiful maiden who sat tle, the so-called ‘Pfalz’ was sel call their hometown ‘The on the rock combing her long used for collecting river tolls. Town of Towers and Vines.’ hair and singing, and there- Located beneath another im- The current of the Rhine now by luring mariners to their de- posing castle ruin, the Schön- begins to grow swifter as the struction (rather like the Si- burg, the small town of Ober- river is forced to wind its way rens in Homer’s Odyssey). wesel flanks the left bank of between often tight mean- When you pass this point dur- the Rhine for almost 2 miles. ders flanked by steep cliffs. ing your Avalon cruise, you Thousands of vines cover the The most striking rocky out- will hear the Song of the Lo- steep slopes. They are need- crop of the Middle Rhine relei being played.

The Song of the Lorelei Romantic Rhine Heinrich Heine (1823) Near Lorelei I cannot know the meaning Why it is that I feel so sad: A fable of old, through it streaming, Makes my mind quite mad. The air is cool as its darkens And gently flows the Rhine. The crest of the mountain sparkles In the last rays of sunshine. The loveliest maiden is sitting Up there, so wondrously fair; Her golden jewelry is gleaming; She combs her golden hair. She uses a comb of finest gold, And sings a song so sweetly. It is music of beauty untold A strange, enchanting melody. The boatman aboard his small skiff, Enraptured with a wild desire, Has no eye for the jagged cliff, His thoughts to the heights aspire. I think that the waves will devour Both boat and man, by and by, And that, with her song of gentle power, Was the work of the Lorelei. Rhine River From Mainz to Koblenz

Rearing high above St. Goar, ruined Rheinfels Castle is the largest fortress of the Middle Rhine, and it served as a model for subsequent castle building throughout the medieval Ger- man Empire.

Among the many Rhenish castles associated with curious legends, one might mention Katz Castle above St. Goarshausen and Maus Cas- tle above Wellmich. They are said to be watching each other warily just like a cat and a mouse – hence the names. Another well-known legend concerns two fortresses lo- The Marksburg cated less than a quarter- Liebenstein, which are fond- Seen from the Rhine, Boppard A picture-book castle of-a-mile apart (as the crow ly nicknamed, the Two Hostile looks very much like a spa town flies, at least), Sternfels and Brothers. of yesteryear, a little old-fash- ioned perhaps, but with some sive walls and bastions, and a attractive hotels along the riv- splendid knight’s hall, chapel The Tragedy of the Two erside promenade, which is and armory: in fact, it is one Hostile Brothers dominated by the imposing the few castles that was never twin towers of the Church of St. destroyed and has thus been According to legend, two brothers used the fortune inherit- th ed from their father to construct two mighty fortresses, Stern- Severus dating from the end of preserved in its original 14 - th fels Castle and Liebenstein Castle. When their mother died, the 12 century. Close to the riv- century condition. they were supposed to share her fortune with their blind sis- er ferry, one can see one of the ter. As was the custom in those days, they measured out the sturdiest defensive buildings of One of the most outstanding money in bushels, but then cheated their blind and helpless the Middle Rhine, the moated products of 19th-century Rhine sibling in the most contemptible manner. However, while God blessed the little money received by the sister, the brothers fortress built for the archbish- romanticism, Stolzenfels Cas- reaped strife and disappointment: their wealth decreased, op-elector of Trier. The square tle, was rebuilt by the Prussian their fields were devastated by storms, their castles fell into keep was not built to keep out architect, Friedrich Schinkel, as disrepair, and the two brothers quarreled so badly that they attackers, though, but served a summer residence for king had a thick wall erected between their fortresses that can still be seen today. When their inheritances had all been used up, as an impregnable lock-up for Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prus- they finally made up, but even this went wrong: having decid- troublesome burghers. sia. Rather like Neuschwanstein ed to meet for a hunting expedition, they agreed that whoev- Castle in Bavaria, it is charac- er got up first should wake the other by shooting a crossbow The Marksburg looks like the terized by a surfeit of small bolt at the shutters on his bedroom window. As chance would sort of robber-baron’s castle decorative towers and extrava- have it, they both woke at the same time, cast open the shutters, and each shot a bolt that pierced the other through the that you might see in a book gant ornamental elements. heart. Thus, each received the just punishment for cheating of fairytales: majestically situ- his blind sister of her rightful inheritance. (Traditional) ated over the Rhine Valley, it Just a couple of miles downriv- has a high keep, mighty defen- er, your ship will reach Koblenz. Rhine River Koblenz

The ‘German Corner’ houses, narrow lanes and ro- The promontory at mantic corners! the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine MAP The tip of land where the Mo- selle joins the Rhine is called the ‘German Corner’ (Deutsches Eck). The site is dominated by an enormous equestrian statue of the Prussian Kaiser Wil- helm I. Nearby is the twin-towered 12th-century Basilica of St. Castor, which is the oldest church of the city. One should also take a closer look at the archbishop of Trier’s Old For- tress (Alte Burg) and impressive historic buildings like the ‘Kauf- und Danzhaus’, the ‘Schöffenhaus’ and the residential tower ‘Deutscher Kai- ser.’ Its Baroque ‘onion spires’ make the Romanesque Church of Our Lady a noticeable place H Koblenz – The Only than 2000 years. While here, of interest. The ‘Four Towers’ City on the Rhine and take a look at the ancient Ro- nearby are beautiful examples the Moselle manesque churches whose for Baroque architecture. The towers are such an impor- Schängel Fountain stands in Located at the point where tant feature of the city’s sky- the courtyard of the City Hall the Moselle joins the Rhine, line! And enjoy exploring its and is surrounded by the Ba- Koblenz can look back over a castles, former nobleman’s roque buildings of the Jesuit history extending back more mansions, splendid burgher’s monastery. The bronze figure spits out water several meters beyond the edge of the foun- The Koblenz tain at irregular intervals – so ‘Eyeball Roller’ take care! Not far from the Church of St. Florin, on the bell-tower of the old Koblenz ‘Customs and Dancing Hall,’ a grotesque face gazes down on passersby. This is the so-called ‘Eyeball Roll- The ‘Four Towers’ er,’ which moves its eyes left and right in time with the swing- Baroque houses by the ing of the pendulum of the tower clock, as well as sticking Church of Our Lady out its tongue on the hour and half-hour. This gargoyle is supposed to recall the robber baron, Johann Lutter von Kobern, who was sentenced to death by beheading in 1536. The story continue goes that his last words were: ‘Hang my head on the Customs Your cruise continues along the Moselle? House and, as long as it stays there, the town will prosper.’ If so, for more information, turn to page 140 Rhine River From Koblenz to Cologne

From Koblenz Researchers into his fami- the Namedyer Werth, you Remagen is best known be- to Cologne ly history are convinced that might see water spouting up cause of its railway bridge, (km 592–689) the Rockefellers have Ger- from the Andernach Geyser, which played such an impor- man origins: in 1723, a cer- the highest cold-water geyser tant role during the Allied ad- Beyond Koblenz, the Rhine tain Johann Peter Roggen- in the world. vance of 1945. flows through a relatively feller from near Neuwied densely populated plain (the emigrated to America and set- Neuwieder Becken), before tled in Germantown, Penn- the valley narrows once more, sylvania. His name, ‘Rocke- and several old fortresses and feller,’ derived from the now- wine villages adorn its banks. abandoned village of Rocken- Owing to the thermal springs feld in the administrative dis- in this area, there are several trict of Neuwied. Even today, popular spa towns here. The many people living here have course of the river will take the surname, ‘Rockenfeller.’ you past many places of historic interest, including Rema- Andernach still has a remark- gen and Bonn, before you ably well-preserved medieval reach Cologne (Köln), the old- city wall. Its most impressive est and most important city feature is the 195-foot-high on the Rhine. ‘Round Tower,’ the highest defensive tower on the Rhine. What does the Neuwieder Behind it, one can see the Becken have to do with the four towers of the Roman- American businessman and esque Parish Church. A sym- tycoon, John D. Rockefeller bol of the town is the ‘Old (1874–1960), who was one of Crane’ dating from the 16th the richest men in the world? century. If you are lucky, by Remagen Bridge The four surviving towers

The ‘Miracle of Remagen’ When Hitler’s troops were forced to retreat during the last months of the Second World War, they took care to destroy all bridges over the Rhine in order to hinder the advance of American, Belgian and British forces. Thus, when nearing Remagen on March 7, 1945, members of the 9th US Tank Divi- sion were astonished to find that its railway bridge was almost entirely intact. ‘This bridge is worth its weight in gold,’ Gen- eral Eisenhower is said to have exclaimed, and in the next few days, 18 Allied regiments were able to cross the Rhine without loss. However, on March 17, the bridge suddenly collapsed owing to excess weight, killing 28 American soldiers. Only the two pairs of towers on either side of the river can now be seen; since 1980, those on the left bank have housed a small Peace Museum. Rhine River From Koblenz to Cologne

Drachenburg Castle Bonn Located on the right bank Near Drachenfels The Beethovenhalle Conference Center (WCCB). of the river below the wood- Both the German President ed slopes of the Siebenge- and Chancellor have a second birge range of hills between the popular legend by the After the war and until Ger- state residence (after Berlin) Bad Honnef and Königswin- Brothers Grimm, Snow White many’s reunification,Bonn in Bonn. ter, Rhöndorf is where Konrad and the Seven Dwarfs, is said served as the provision- Adenauer (1876–1967), the first to have its origins here. Near- al capital of the Feder- Bonn was the place of Chancellor of the Federal Re- by Drachenburg Castle was al Republic of Germany. birth of Ludwig van public of Germany, spent his created only in 1884 on the ro- Most of the new gov- Beethoven (1770–1827), last years until his death. mantic whim of a wealthy bar- ernment buildings and the city is proud on. were built along to commemorate The Siebengebirge is a range the Rhine, and the great com- of hills made up of a series of The Petersberg hotel moved many of these – poser. His birth- cones of extinct volcanoes. into the spotlight of history including the of- house in Bonn- The most famous hills of the when it was used as the seat fice building for gasse contains a group are the Drachenfels of the Allied High Commis- members of the museum dedicat- and Petersberg. At the sum- sion; this body was made up national parlia- ed to his life and mit of the Drachenfels, an im- of representatives of the Al- ment (nicknamed music, while an impressive ruin is located near lied Powers occupying Ger- ‘Tall Eugen’) and pressive statue the supposed site of the cave many met from 1949 to 1955. the parliament monument can be where, in the saga of the Nibe- Since then, it has served as building itself seen on Münster- lungs, Siegfried killed a drag- a place for accommodating (called the ‘Water- platz. on whose blood made him in- guests of the German govern- works’) – are now Ludwig van Beethoven vulnerable to wounds. Also, ment and state. part of the World Bonn’s greatest son The former Electoral Castle NowRhine part of River the University From Koblenz to Cologne

On the riverbank, the large Cologne, is today part of Bonn’s concert hall and congress cen- university. The City Hall and the ter, the Beethovenhalle, is of- Koblenzer Tor date back to the ten the venue for performanc- same period. es of the composer’s works. At this point, the Rhine Riv- In 1989, Bonn celebrated its er has left behind the hilly val- 2000-year anniversary. Thus, ley landscape and – now called the city’s roots go back to the the Lower Rhine (Niederrhein) Celts and the Romans. Bonn’s – traverses the so-called Co- landmark, the Bonn Minster, is a logne Lowland (Kölner Bucht), towering Romanesque basilica a densely populated and high- standing on a site that has been ly industrialized region. Along sacred for 2000 years, first as the banks of the river, there a Roman temple and then as a are many large, modern petro- Christian church and shrine to chemical refineries. the martyrs Cassius and Flo- rentius. With its 92-meter cross- As your cruise ship approaches ing tower, Romanesque cloister Cologne, it’s well worth looking Konrad Adenauer and a mainly Baroque interi- out for various city landmarks as A Great German or, the Minster is an impressive you sail by – these include the Konrad Adenauer, who had pre- piece of architecture. Twice in futuristic building of the Choc- viously been Lord Mayor of Co- its history, in 1314 and 1346, the olate Museum, the striking logne for many years, became Minster was the coronation church tower of Great St. Mar- the first Chancellor of the Fed- venue for German kings. The tin’s and the picturesque Fish eral Republic of Germany in 1949, and his far-reaching pol- Residential Palace (Residenz- Market – before the ship docks icies over the next 14 years did schloss), built in the late Ba- close to the Hohenzollern much to shape the country. His roque period by the electors of Bridge and the Cathedral. period of power saw the re-es- tablishment of stable demo- cratic government, rapid economic recovery and growth, Why Was Bonn the Provisional Capital and a foreign policy of concilia- of Germany? tion and cooperation. In the lat- The Allies were agreed that Germany’s new postwar capital ter, he sought solidarity with the should be relatively undamaged, small but yet steeped in tra- Western powers, European unity and membership of NATO. dition and historical associations. The British declared them- Thus, for example, the long-term stationing of American forc- selves ready to relinquish the area around Bonn that lay within es in Germany as a security measure owed much to Adenau- their occupation zone if the city was chosen as Germany’s pro- er. In the face of much opposition even within his own party, visional capital. The first meeting of the Parliamentary Coun- he worked to establish a social economy in Germany. His out- cil in Bonn in 1948 represented a first step toward its selection. look was essentially anti-communist, yet he was a political real- The final decision fell on November 29, 1949, with Bonn being ist and was thus prepared to reopen diplomatic relations with preferred to Frankfurt, Kassel and Stuttgart, although the pro- the Soviet Union. It was largely his achievement that Germa- visional character of its role was especially emphasized. When ny soon became a functioning democracy based on individual Germany was finally reunified, the treaty regulating the terms liberty and an independent judiciary, so that the country was of this process declared that Berlin would be its capital. After able to re-establish itself within the international community a parliamentary vote in favor of this, the government and par- in the years following the disaster of the Second World War. liament moved to Berlin in 1991. Rhine River Cologne

Cologne’s skyline Absolutely unforgetable

The Martinswinkel A romantic spot

H Cologne – Character- ful and Cheerful Cologne – Germany’s Oldest Rhine Metropolis Jewish Community Despite suffering terrible dam- As early as 321 AD, a document refers to a Jewish community in a quarter around Cologne’s City Hall. In spite of ongoing dis- age during the Second World putes with the Christian population, this seems to have flour- War, Cologne has since de- ished until the 14th century, but the arrival of the Black Death in veloped into one of Germa- 1349 saw Jews being blamed for the catastrophe. Pogroms and ny’s liveliest major cities. The massacres followed, many Jews fled or were driven out of the city, and their quarter suffered widespread destruction. city’s symbol and focal point is its Cathedral, one of the In the succeeding centuries, Cologne’s Jewish community was able to re-establish itself, so that they accounted for no world’s greatest places of less than 15,000 of the city’s population in early 1933. Under worship. Even older, Cologne Nazi rule, though, all six synagogues and other Jewish build- has many fine Romanesque ings were desecrated or destroyed, while 11,000 Jews were churches like Great St. Mar- deported and murdered. tin’s. A visit to the city should After the Second World War, a new synagogue was erected definitely take in a traditional on the fringe of the inner city. A bronze plaque on the City pub like those around the Heu- Opera House recalls the fact that there was once a synagogue in Glockengasse. A mikwe, a bath for ritual purification that markt and Alter Markt, where has been excavated on Rathausplatz, can be visited. Today, ‘Kölsch,’ a pale beer with a dis- Cologne’s Jewish community is once more an important ele- ment in the life of the city. tinctive tang of hops, is the lo- Great St . Martin’s cal specialty. One of the 12 Romanesque churches Rhine River Rhine River

Leverkusen (The Bayerwerke) Bayer is best known for its From Cologne to production of aspirin the Dutch Border Why Do Most Rhine Bridges Look Alike? (km 689 –864) th During the 14 century, Zons By the end of the Second World War, all 37 bridges over the The Rhine has now left the was a fortified customs town German Rhine had been destroyed. Consequently, it was nec- last hills of its course behind controlled by the archbishop- essary to look for new technical solutions that would be effec- it and flows its leisurely way elector of Cologne, and the tive, economical and easy to implement as quickly as possible. To create the minimum obstruction to river traffic, the idea of through a broad and essen- mighty Customs Tower and having as few supporting piers in the river as possible gave tially flat landscape. For some Windmill Tower – built using rise to the constructional form called a cable-stayed or guyed miles, though, its banks are the red bricks characteristic of bridge. Here, the road crossing the river is suspended using characterized by sprawling ur- the Lower Rhine – date from thick iron cables directly attached to a supporting pylon rising ban zones and large industri- this time. as high as 300 feet or more. al complexes. After a while, one sees more and more old In the far distance, one soon The local specialty – Altbier branches of the river that have sees a huge cable-stayed reverted to their natural state, bridge over the Rhine, a sign as well as extensive meadows that your ship is nearing Düs- sometimes separated by ar- seldorf, a major commercial, row-straight rows of poplars congress and cultural center or dotted with gnarled old wil- with its own university. Düs- lows. The pastures and fields seldorf’s Old City boasts the reach right down to the river- nickname, ‘the world’s lon- side. gest bar,’ and the downtown area really does have over 250 Located amid open meadows pubs, restaurants and bars. Di- and completely surrounded by rectly on the right bank, one a medieval defensive wall, the can see two of the city’s sym- small town of Zons seems like bols, the lighthouse-like Old a dream-like apparition when Castle Tower and the spire of seen in the early morning mist. the Church of St. Lambert. Rhine River Rhine River

Arnhem IJssel

Düsseldorf Rhine promenade

Nijmegen Ahaus The Ruhr Region – Between ‘Heavy Metal’ and ‘High Heels’ D Emmerich NL km 852 Similar to Zons, Kaiserswerth R Duisburg is located on the very edge of the Ruhr region,

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Rur Cologne p portant of these include We- continue km 686-689 Cathedral Gummersbachsel, a former member of the Your cruise continues to Amsterdam? Rurstausee Hanseatic League, historic If so, for more information, turn to page 86 Xanten dominated by the tow-

Siegburg St. Hennef Bonn Augustin Königswinter

projekt ard: Cologne-Emmerich Datum : 27.01.2012 Dateimaßstab: 1:1 105 000 Kartenformat: 56 x 124,1 mm Ausbelichtung: 100% cyan magenta yellow black