Dear GEMüTLICHKEIT Subscriber The Travel Letter for , Austria & Switzerland Rental Car Confusion The marketing tactics of Europe’s major rental car companies often get in the way of their customers’ understand- ing of the process. Example: in quoting Begin at the mammoth six-towered Romanesque cathedral, then explore a compact urban prices, rental companies always cite a layout squeezed between embankments and vineyard-covered hillsides. VSHFLÀFPDNHDQGPRGHO9RONVZDJHQ hat began as an imperial Ro- Mainz and east-bank Wiesbaden). Golf, Mercedes C-200, Audi A4, etc. man military encampment, Many travelers are under the impres- Looming above all else alongside W circa 38 A.D., underwent the Marktplatz, the reddish-sandstone sion that they will drive the exact ve- periodic wars, takeovers, Frankish-Hes- hicle mentioned in the quote. episcopal Mainzer Dom—dedicated to sian trouble-making, religious upheavals Sts. Martin and Stephan—makes a pow- Unfortunately, it doesn’t work that and territorial changes-of-fortune. But erful ecclesiastical statement. Among ZD\:KHQTXRWLQJRUFRQÀUPLQJD early generations of by Tom Bross western German cathedrals, only Co- booking, rental companies always use Mainzers came through logne’s and Speyer’s exceed this one in the term “or similar.” That full-size all this, thanks primarily to their city’s importance and iconic renown. Begun Mercedes Benz C-200 you think you location in what has become present- almost 1,000 years ago, the enormous booked could turn out to be an Opel day southwestern Germany. For this VL[WRZHUHGHGLÀFHH[HPSOLÀHV5RPDQ- Signum, Peugeot 607 or a make of car is where two rivers converge—Rhine esque design with its dome, transepts you’re totally unfamiliar with, such as meets Main—prompting riverboat cap- a Skoda or Seat (pronounced See-ott). It and east/west chancels, but featuring tains to drop anchor and stay awhile. subsequent Gothic and even rococo is vitally important that a prospective Long-enough stopovers brought trade renter understand that rental compa- embellishments. As expected, there’s and prosperity, eventually enhanced by nies guarantee by category—economy, much to see inside. Such as a neo- advantageous proximity to Frankfurt’s compact, intermediate, full-size, Gothic pulpit, side altars and chapels, banks and emergent stock markets. Also compact wagon, intermediate wagon, ÀYHGR]HQHOHFWRUDOSULQFHELVKRSV·DQG full-size van, standard van, premium, SURÀWDEO\QHDUE\DUHWKH5KHLQKHVVHQ canons’ tombstones, a 14th-century pew- luxury, etc.—notE\VSHFLÀFPDNHRU and Rheingau wine country. (The curv- ter baptismal font, rectors’ monuments, model. Within the category booked LQJ5KLQHÁRZVEHWZHHQZHVWEDQN Continued on page 3… you are guaranteed a type of transmis- sion (manual or automatic), number of Best Germany Guidebook doors (two or four) and whether the car is air-conditioned. This guarantee does espite the Internet and it’s many West Germany, including West Berlin not extend to engine type or size, trunk related electronic wireless de- (charming hotels and cozy style (hatchback or regular), color or D vices, the single most useful tool being rather scarce in hard-to-access equipment—though a few rentals may available to the traveler who wants to communist East Germany). specify diesel engine, and more expen- see Germany by automobile is still the The 1910 guide was dedicated to sive categories may guarantee GPS. Michelin Red Guide. The by Bob Bestor “gentlemen drivers” and carried advice This means the rental company can time will soon come RQFKDQJLQJWLUHVDQGZKHUHWRÀQGUH- give you any car it has decided to place when the guide will be accessible from pair shops and places to refuel—mostly in the category you reserved (or a car in the car but until that day the hefty red grocery stores and pharmacies. Hotel a higher category, but more on that in a book, with its approximately 10,000 hotel listings noted the availability of such minute). In fact, scant attention is paid and establishments, all catego- necessities as electricity, central heating to the make and model mentioned in rized, rated, with each one’s particular and bathrooms. the reservation. Let’s say, for example, advantages and charms depicted via a you’ve booked an intermediate sedan set of clever symbols, is still very much Today’s guides, of course, are most (IDMR in rental-speak) from Europcar worth carrying with you. famous for their star rating system of for pickup at the Frankfurt Airport. expensive restaurants. Dinner without

Vol. 24, No. 6 July, 2010 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Executive Editor: Nikki Goth Itoi Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Contributors: Tom Bross Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Sharon Hudgins Adequate 4 - 7 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Online Services: Kurt Steffans Unacceptable 0 - 3 Subscriber Travel Services: Andy Bestor, Laura Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 UpCountry Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail travel@ Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 gemut.com. Web site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 for 10 issues, $49 via email. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520

Gemütlichkeit 2 July 2010 http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com MAINZ Mainz Basics Continued from page 1 Population: 193,343 1884. From Frankfurt’s own Hauptbahn- sculpted devil-monsters and a veritable Elevation: 98 meters (321 ft.) hof, regional as well as Deutsche Bahn’s gallery of painted German and French high-speed ICE (InterCityExpress) trains Visitor information: Touristik Centrale saints’ statues. The cathedral cloister’s depart for Mainz approx. every 15 min- Mainz, Brückenturm am Rathaus, 55116 Diocesan Museum (Domstrasse 3) utes daily. The southbound ICE trip from Mainz, tel. +49/6131/286/621/22, fax: exhibits vestments, religious art, gold Cologne is just under two hours. 6131/286/2155, [email protected], reliquaries and medieval sculptures. Air: Following arrival at Frankfurt’s Museum: tel. +49/0631/253/344. Open Rhein-Main international airport (FRA), daily except Sunday, adult admittance *HUPDQ1DWLRQDO7RXULVW2IÀFH(DVW transfer via #8 S-Bahn to Mainz, a 26- nd ½   42 St., New York NY 10168-0072, tel. minute commute. 212-661-7200, fax: 212-661-7174, 9LDDWDQJOHRIQDUURZAltstadt River: At downtown docks on Adenau- streets, walk a few blocks south from er-Allee, passengers board “White Fleet” there to reach 13th-century St. Stepha- Driving distances: VKLSVRIWKH.|OQ'VVHOGRUIHU .' OLQH nskirche, perched on a little hilltop Berlin 592 km/368 miles for upstream and downstream cruises on DW.OHLQH:HLVVJDVVH3ODQQHUVRIWKLV &RORJQH.|OQ NPPLOHV the Middle Rhine. Düsseldorf 212 km/132 miles Gothic church’s postwar reconstruction Special Events: Carnival (Fastnacht) Frankfurt 31 km/19 miles ZRXQGXSZLWKDVLJQLÀFDQWDFTXLVLWLRQ FUD]LQHVVFRYHUVWKHODVWÀYHGD\VEHIRUH Hamburg 519 km/323 miles nine blue stained-glass choir windows, pre-Lenten Ash Wednesday, March 4-8 in Heidelberg 98 km/61 miles surrealistically depicting Biblical Old 2011. Crowds cheer a thumping Karneval .REOHQ] NPPLOHV Testament scenes, created by Marc Cha- parade on Rosenmontag (Rose Monday, Munich 421 km/262 miles gall in the 1970s. March 7). Stuttgart 216 km/134 miles 'DWLQJIURPWKHÁDPER\DQWO\ Wiesbaden 10 km/6 miles Johannisnacht, a midyear tribute to Baroque Kurfürstliches Schloss princes’ Würzburg 145 km/90 miles Gutenberg. Antiquarian book fair, arti- electoral palace on Ernst-Ludwig-Platz Important dates: Roman stronghold, VDQV·VWDQGVZLQHÀUHZRUNV%DOOSODW] houses a museum of Roman and Ger- Castrum Moguntiacum, 38 B.C. and (of course) Gutenbergplatz, June manic history. Or opt instead for Mainz’s 25-28. Landesmuseum—originally the electors’ City charter, granted by Archbishop Siegfried III, 1244 Mainzer Zeltfest (Tent Festival). Pop horse stables—displaying Dutch masters’ stars, rock bands, fun-fair rides, acrobats paintings, Jugendstil/Art Nouveau and Gutenberg’s invention, circa 1445-48 DQGMXJJOHUVFDEDUHWDQGFRPHG\9RON- Secessionist-era aristry along with Stone Republic of Mainz (Mayence) pro- spark and Rosengarten, July 17-18, 23-25. $JHUHPQDQWVDQGÀQH(XURSHDQSRUFH- claimed during occupation by French Beer Market (Bierbörse) brings more than lains. See www.landesmuseum-mainz.de. Revolutionary Army, March-July, 1793 1,000 brands from 75 breweries through- Johannes Gutenberg, born and died Mainz named Landeshauptstadt capital of out the Rhineland and beyond. Riverside in Mainz, invented movable type—a new Rheinhessen province, 1816 Biergarten at Rheinufer am Rathaus, July process that instantly revolutionized the French occupation following World War 16-18. printing of 42-line Bibles, decrees, docu- I, 1919-1930 Mainzer Weinmarkt celebrates harvest ments, manuscripts and all other forms 30 Allied air raids destroy 80% of central WLPH9RONVSDUNDQG5RVHQJDUWHQ$X- of reading matter. The much-visited Mainz during World War II gust 26-29, Sept.2-5. Gutenberg Museum, downstairs on th Liebfrauenplatz, replicates his original Mainz falls to the 90 Infantry Division Christmas Market, Marktplatz, Novem- hand press and workshop, with the gen- of U.S. General George S. Patton’s Third ber 11-December 23. XLQHÀUVWHGLWLRQRID*XWHQEHUJ%LEOH Army, March 22, 1945 Best Buy: The Mainz Card entitles us- (1452-55) prominently displayed. Days, Named postwar capital of the Rhine- ers to a 50-percent discount for selected hours, prices at: www.gutenberg-mu- land-Palatinate federal state, 1949 tours and attractions, free admittance seum.de6WURQJRQVFLHQWLÀFUHVHDUFK Road: Drive into the city center after to seven museums, transportation on Johannes Gutenberg University (Ger- reaching an east-west or north-south Au- city trams and buses as well as regional PDQ\·VVHYHQWKROGHVW HQUROOHGLWVÀUVW tobahn interchange. Motorists get there Mainz-Wiesbaden S-Bahn service and students in 1477. via the A-5 from Heidelberg/Darmstadt, Frankfurt Airport commute. Plus 20% A-3 from Cologne, A-66 from Fulda/ GLVFRXQWRQ.'5KLQHFUXLVHVVDYLQJV 6LJKWVHHUVVKRXOGÀQGWKHLUZD\WR on meals and drinks at listed restau- a pair of notable “water works.” The Frankfurt. Watch for Mainz-Innenstadt exit signs. UDQWV$YDLODEOHDWWKHWRXULVWRIÀFHDQG cascading Marktbrunnen, close to the designated hotels. Bargain-priced at Rail: Each day, 78 long-distance and 440 FDWKHGUDOMXVWLÀHVLWVVWDWXUHDVRQHRI ½SHUSHUVRQ½IDPLO\JURXSUDWH Germany’s biggest Renaissance foun- local and regional trains chug into the tains, centered on the Marktplatz since neo-Renaissance, recently renovated Born Here: “Beer baron” Joseph Schlitz, who emigrated to Milwaukee in 1850. 1526. Over on Schillerplatz, kids and Hauptbahnhof main station, completed in

Gemütlichkeit 3 July 2010 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com grownups can’t get enough of 1967’s VLJQLÀFDQWKunstverein art gallery several developed (controversially) two years Fastnachtsbrunnen. Water spouts spray years ago. ago over an archaeological site revealing st the intricately shaped ironwork, embla- Drivers traveling on south-side Un- the Romans’ 1 -century Temple of Isis. zoned with more than 200 clowns, jesters terer Zahlbacher Strasse steer past the Entertainment and heraldic emblems symbolizing Car- city’s hulking, rock-solid Zitadelle, a nival merriment. defensive bastion constructed in 1660, %HJLQQLQJQH[W\HDU)690DLQ] Prewar old and unexciting, the topped by a remembrance cenotaph. 05—one of Germany’s national Bundes- city’s harbor-front customs facili- Used as the 1940s’ 2ÁDJ;,,% prisoner- liga teams—will play its home matches ties, regulating river commerce, got a of-war camp, the citadel’s extra-thick in the city’s new Coface Arena, with daring face-lift in 2008. That’s when walls and dimly lit inner chambers capacity for 33,500 Fussball (soccer) root- Kunsthalle Mainz appeared, instantly turned it into a vital community air-raid ers. Thanks to available bicycle rentals, recognizable because of its aqua-glazed shelter during the edgiest days of Al- you can do some pedal-touring. The 21-meter (69-ft.) entryway tower, tilted lied aerial bombardments. In this part of 5|PHUURXWH 5RPDQ5RXWH ELNHSDWK at a rakish seven-degree angle. Rotating Mainz, too, the jagged contours of what extends 13 km./8 miles and includes 19 contemporary art exhibitions and the used to be a Roman aqueduct poke out sign-posted stopovers at historic sites. 7º Café Lounge attract museum-goers of the ground. Audiences applaud symphonic, to what’s been nicknamed “the Leaning Tucked into hillsides on the city’s operatic, operetta and ballet perfor- Tower of Mainz.” Am Zollhafen 3-5, tel. northern outskirts, family-run, 160-year- mances in Villa Musica (Auf der Bastei +49/06131/129/636, www.kunsthalle- old Sektkellerie Kupferberg (sparkling 3), a concert hall opened in 1907. The mainz.de$GPLVVLRQ½ ½RQ wine cellars) stores its stock of the gold- Mainzer Kammerspiele (Rheinstrasse 4) “Happy Tuesdays”). label “bubbly” in 60 deep-down stone is ideally proportioned for solo appear- Two medieval gateways stand tall cellars, for lengthy fermentation. The Art ances, chamber-music ensembles and and photogenic on Rheinstrasse in Nouveau “Hall of Grapes,” carved-oak Broadway-type musical productions. the Altstadt. So look up at the turreted barrels, Belle Epoque advertising posters Staatstheater Mainz (Guten- 14th-century Holzturm (Wood Tower, and the family’s 600-piece collection of bergplatz) houses two different-size modern-design furniture store now in- antique glassware are seen during tours VWDJHV³LQ*URVVHV+DXVDQG.OHLQHV side!) and the century-older Eisenturm DQGWDVWLQJV WZRKRXUV½RQHKRXU +DXV$OVRLQVLGH³RQWKHWRSÁRRU³D (Iron Tower), its stone-and-wood-frame ½ .XSIHUEHUJVWUDVVHwww. trendy restaurant and lounge, Maus interior transformed into a small but kupferbergterrasse.de im Mollers (www.mollers.de), treats diners and drinkers to wide-angle over- Cafés & Shopping in Inner Mainz Key Websites for the Traveler views of Mainz’s nighttime city-scape • Gateway site for For an after-hours drink or snack, join and straight-ahead looks at the dramati- travelers to Germanic Europe, including car the city’s night owls at a café or . FDOO\ÁRRGOLWFDWKHGUDO,IFXWWLQJHGJH rental, rail passes, hotel bookings, travel tips, and past issues (free access to back issues for Scheiner, and Christina Schickert’s old- German cabaret acts interest you, plan subscribers; see log-on info on page 2). time, wood-paneled Weinhaus Wilhelmi an evening at the Unterhaus (Mün- • The Michelin (both on Rheinstrasse) are well-known sterstrasse 7). Frankfurter Hof doubles database of hotels and restaurants, plus great locally, as is Dom Café, established in as a jazz joint and dance Palast, where interactive trip planning tools 1792 (Markt 12-16). Others: Café am Ball- • Guide- party-goers refuel at the Gusto wine books, maps, travel accessories, luggage, platz (Ballplatz 2), Daily’s Café-Bistro (Augustinerstrasse 55). all at 10 percent off for subscribers. Use (Bauerngasse 4), Café Dings (Mailand- discount code gemut2010. gasse 2-6), Bistro Codex (Liebfrauenplatz Government • Amazing map re- source. Driving & walking. Zoom in-out. Great 5) and—for catching up on e-mail—IC Tour guides inevitably point out detail city & country. Satellite & terrain views. Internet City (Christofstrasse 13). Deutschhaus, which faces riverside • Stores, boutiques, specialty shops .RQUDG$GHQDXHU$OOHHDQGUDPSVOHDG- German rail website, with train schedules ing up to the Rhine bridge. Rebuilt and throughout Europe, as well as Germany. and market stalls line both sides of Au- enlarged following air-raid damage in • Swiss and Euro- gustinerstrasse and narrower intercon- th pean rail schedules necting side streets (Langgasse, Gaus- 1945, this Baroque 18 -century Teutonic • Top Web re- trasse, Schillerstrasse, Ludwigstrasse), .QLJKWV·SDODFHKDVIXQFWLRQHGDVWKH source for skiers with much info on Alpine resorts plus the Am Brand Zentrum pedestrian seat of Rhineland-Palatinate’s Landtag • Website zone. Also in Mainz’s bustling retail dis- parliament since 1951. There’s nothing of Switzerland’s national tourist authority Old World-charming about the Danish- • Germa- trict, a few blocks south of the cathedral, ny’s national tourist authority are branches of Germany’s “big-box” designed Rathaus, built 1970-74. Severe- • Austria’s Karstadt and Galeria Kaufhof depart- ly triangular with zigzagging Swedish national tourist authority ment stores. Consisting of 90 shops marble walls, Mainz’s city hall glowers • Web- covering the international merchandis- over Jockel-Fuchs-Platz. Emphasizing its site for an alliance of historic German cities ing spectrum, the skylit Römerpassage Rhenish location, wine-sipping outdoes • Info on elec- beer-drinking in the Ratskeller. tronics for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. mall—entered from Lotharstrasse—was

Gemütlichkeit 4 July 2010 TRAVEL MART European Auto Rental Book Hotels Online Germany *HY ^LLR _[YHKH` www.gemut.com www.gemut.com 6WLS*VYZH   =>.VSM^\WNYHKL   . A website for travelers to Three-star-plus hotels from: 6WLS(Z[YH(\[V   Germanic Europe =>7HZZH[^\WNYHKL   Baden-Baden ...... ½60 =>7HZZH[(\[V    Berlin ...... ½59 Book European Travel (\KP(   Frankfurt Airport ...... ½59 Travel shopping is easy at www.gemut. 4)A* ^\WNYHKL   Garmisch-Partenkirchen ..... ½69 com. You can now book hotels, purchase 4)A* H\[V.7:    Munich ...... ½59 rail passes and point-to-point rail tickets, 4)A,(\[V.7:    Munich Airport ...... ½49 =>;V\YHU   Wiesbaden...... ½72 buy travel insurance, and request quotes on transatlantic airline tickets and rental =>.VSM:>    Graz...... ½54 =>7HZZH[:>   Salzburg ...... ½49 cars. Secure, one-stop European travel (\KP(:>.7:   Steyr ...... ½99 shopping at www.gemut.com )4>:>(\[V.7:  Vienna ...... ½36 =VS]V=:>.7:    Vienna Airport ...... ½79 Your Berlin Headquarters =>:OHYHUWHZZ   Grindelwald ...... CHF150 =>4PUPI\Z WHZZ   Interlaken ...... CHF120 Hotel Art Nouveau Lucerne ...... CHF99 (\Z[YPH Zürich ...... CHF110 K'Damm & Savignyplatz neighborhood -PH[7\U[V   Zürich Airport ...... CHF110 QHDUPDQ\¿QHVKRSVDQGVPDOOUHVWDXUDQWV -6YK-VJ\Z   Mention Gemütlichkeit IRUİGLVFRXQW =>.VSM(\[V   (GLWRU VFKRLFH 4LYJLKLZ)*SHZZ   Gemütlichkeit's 7L\NLV[   Tel. 888-517-4342, Fax +49.30.32774440 :RVKH6J[H]PH   Trip Planning & Email: [email protected] Booking Service =>;V\YHU(\[V    web: www.hotelartnouveau.de -VYK-VJ\Z>HNVU    • Hotel Bookings :RVKH6J[H]PH>HNVU   Fall airfares to Europe 9LUH\S[;YHMÄJ 7HZZ   • Hotel/Restaurant Recommendations :^P[aLYSHUK • Backroads Itineraries Consolidator Air Fares Best fares on Lufthansa, American, Delta, 6WLS*VYZH   • Self-Guided Auto/Rail Tours United, British Air, LTU, Northwest, Swiss, 6WLS(Z[YH    Ask about our individually -VYK-VJ\Z(\[V   Atlanta...... $428 6WLS=LJ[YH   tailored 14-day “Great Little Boston ...... $329 (\KP((\[V.7:   Hotels & Restaurants of ;V`V[H(]LUZPZ(\[V   Germany” auto tours Chicago...... $489 Dallas...... $410 6WLSAHÄYH   =>.VSM>HNVU   Denver ...... $645 800-521-6722 -VYK.HSH_`=HU   Los Angeles ...... $532 9LUH\S[7H_=HUH\[V   Miami...... $940 ‹[OLM[PUZ\YHUJL Washington DC...... $445 YVHK[H_HUKHPYWVY[MLLZ Business Class ...... $2700 to $4000 )LZ[*\YYLU[+LHS Fares available from all U.S. gateways ‹;OYV\NO:LW[KYP]LH-\SSZPaL IMPORTANT: Fares are round trip to Germany for 4LYJLKLZ*PUNLYTHU`MVYH^LLRMVY mid-week travel and do not include tax, fees, & fuel  PUJS\KPUN =(; surcharge. Call for a to-the-penny quote or get an email quote at www.gemut.com *HYZHSZVH]HPSHISLPUTVZ[ ,\YVWLHUJV\U[YPLZ 800.521.6722 

Get the Latest Rail Prices at Gemut.com AUSTRIA-CZECH PASS GERMANY-FRANCE PASS BUYING RAIL PASSES IN 2010 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl Because of currency fluctuation, pass 4 days in 2 months $243 $207 $158 4 days in 2 months $430 $388 $388 $350 $301 Avg Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 33 $ 28 $ 21 5 days in 2 months $475 $428 $428 $386 $333 prices are changing rapidly. Prices 6 days in 2 months $520 $468 $468 $418 $366 CZECH-GERMANY PASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth 8 days in 2 months $611 $550 $550 $479 $428 listed here are approximations. At 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 10 days in 2 months $701 $632 $632 $550 $496 5 days in 2 months $377 $310 $310 $266 $266 www.gemut.raileuorpe.com you can 6 days in 2 months $419 $344 $344 $296 $296 GERMANY-SWITZERLAND PASS 8 days in 2 months $491 $408 $408 $352 $352 1 Adult Saver* Youth securely buy the listed passes, as well 10 days in 2 months $566 $471 $471 $410 $410 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 5 days in 2 months $452 $385 $318 as many others, plus book individual EUROPEAN EAST PASS 6 days in 2 months $498 $424 $350 Austria, Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, Slovakia 8 days in 2 months $589 $503 $414 tickets. Or, for current prices, and to 5 days in 1 month $299 (1Cl) $209 (2Cl) 10 days in 2 months $681 $582 $479 place a rail pass order, call 800-521- Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $36 $28 ITALY RAIL PASS RAlL PASS Adults Senior Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 6722x3, though we no longer book 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 3 days in 1 month $293 $250 $268 $217 $186 3 days in 2 months $244 $199 $208 $169 $161 city-to-city tickets by phone. For Euro- Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 45 $37 $40 $ 33 $28 Avg Extra Rail Day $30 $24 $25 $20 $19 pean timetables go to www.bahn.de. AUSTRIA-SWITZERLAND PASS FRANCE SAVER PASS 2 Adults* Adults Saver* Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl EURAILPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth 3 days in 1 month $249 $215 4 days in 2 months $366 $311 $257 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 39 $ 31 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 41 $35 $28 15 consecutive days $756 $641 $491 FRANCE-ITALY PASS consecutive days $980 $832 $636 SWISS SAVERPASS & SWISS PASS 1 month $1218 $1032 $793 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 1 Adult Saver* Youth 2 months $1719 $1461 $1118 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 3 months $2120 $1809 $1382 4 days in 2 months $351 $307 $307 $271 $232 5 days in 2 months $391 $341 $341 $301 $258 Class Class Class Class Class Class EURAIL FLEXIPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth 6 days in 2 months $432 $377 $377 $332 $283 4 consec. days $399 $266 $340 $226 $299 $200 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 7 days in 2 months $473 $410 $410 $360 $313 8 consec. days $576 $384 $490 $328 $432 $290 10 days in 2 months $893 $758 $583 8 days in 2 months $513 $448 $448 $394 $341 15 consec. days $697 $465 $593 $395 $523 $350 15 days in 2 months $1173 $999 $763 9 days in 2 months $554 $483 $483 $426 $366 22 consec. days $805 $536 $685 $457 $604 $403 EURAIL SELECTPASS 10 days in 2 months $595 $519 $519 $454 $396 1 month $885 $590 $753 $503 $664 $443 3 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth FRANCE-SWITZERLAND PASS SWISS SAVER FLEXIPASS & SWISS FLEXIPASS 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1 Adult Saver* Youth 2 or more Adults* 1 Adult 5 days in 2 months $479 $407 $312 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 6 days in 2 months $529 $451 $346 4 days in 2 months $376 $319 $265 Class Class Class Class 8 days in 2 months $628 $536 $407 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 42 $35 $29 3 days in 1 month $326 $217 $383 $255 10 days in 2 months $727 $615 $470 4 days in 1 month $395 $263 $463 $309 GERMAN RAILPASS 5 days in 1 month $457 $305 $536 $358 4 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Youth Twin Pass* 6 days in 1 month $519 $347 $609 $407 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. SWISS CARD 5 days in 2 months $536 $453 $348 3 days in 1 month $364 $277 $222 $280 $204 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6) $ 45 30 $17 $31 $23 1 month - 1 round trip $261 (1-Cl) $187 (2-Cl) 6 days in 2 months $586 $500 $381 plus 50% discount on rail tickets 8 days in 2 months $684 $582 $444 10 days in 2 months $782 $663 $506 AUSTRIA-GERMANY PASS SWISS TRANSFER TICKET 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 month - 1 round trip $196 (1-Cl) $130 (2-Cl) 5 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 5 days in 2 months $390 $332 $332 $285 $285 (*Prices per person, based on two or more traveling together at all 5 days in 2 months $591 $501 $384 6 days in 2 months $429 $365 $365 $315 $315 times. **Junior & Youth fares apply only to passengers under 26. 6 days in 2 months $641 $544 $415 8 days in 2 months $510 $433 $433 $372 $372 Where senior fares are offered, 60 is qualifying age.Children 4-11 pay 8 days in 2 months $740 $627 $479 10 days in 2 months $593 $504 $504 $433 $433 half the adult fare including Saverpass fares except Switzerland where 10 days in 2 months $835 $708 $541 kids under 16 are free with a parent.) 15 days in 2 months $1059 $901 $689 GERMANY-BENELUX PASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth AUSTRIAN RAILPASS 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT PRICES: The US dollar prices on this page are 1st Cl 2nd Cl Child 1st Child 2nd 5 days in 1 month $405 $305 $305 $247 $247 based on the euro and are subject to change with currency fluctuation. Pass 3 days in 1 month $201 $140 $101 $71 Avg. Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $43 $33 $33 $24 $24 orders will be processed in dollars, but amounts charged may vary from Avg Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $28 $19 $14 $10 prices shown on this page. Product # Days 1st/2nd Class Circle one Passenger Name (First and Last as on Passport) Country of Residence Price

Mr./Mrs.

Mr./Mrs.

Mr./Mrs.

Mr./Mrs.

Special Considerations (Specify countries for countries Method of Payment (Visa MC AmEx Diners) chosen for Selectpass, additional rail days, etc.) Card #:______Exp. Date______Est. total amount: $______Name ______TERMS & CONDITIONS: Prices on this page sub- Order online at ject to change. Canceled orders refunded 85% of Street______total charge. Handling fee for cancels is $25. City______State____ Zip______gemut.raileuorpe.com

Fax form to 541-488-8468 or mail to: Daytime Phone______U.S. Depart. Date______or phone 800-521-6722 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520 http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com Hotel Schottenhof Contel Mainz Mainz Hotels Walkable proximity to the main Low-slung and contemporary, along- Hilton Mainz railroad station is a plus, augmented side northwest-suburban Hartenberg A choice downtown riverfront set- E\WKUHHVWDUEXGJHWFODVVLÀFDWLRQDQG Park. Use the complimentary under- ting: angular low-rise contours and full-scale renovation of all 40 bedrooms. ground garage if you’re coming by car, mirror-glass facades are attention-get- Guest socialize in the café/bar. then settle into one of this hotel’s 180 WHUV

Gemütlichkeit 9 July 2010 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com dozen main German-Swiss-Austrian OLJKWIURWKO\.|OVFKVKLSSHGXSULYHU will keep you happily busy and full. HauptgerichteFRXUVHV ½ DQG from Cologne. Banners on the rafters Half portions and daily specials are 10 of Mainz’s traditional meat-cheese- and oompah band music on stage com- money-savers, which explains a range RQLRQVSHFLDOWLHV ½ ,I\RX·UH plete the experience. RI-DFNRESULFHVJHQHUDOO\½ in the Gutenbergplatz vicinity at midday, Contact: Augustinerkeller, Au- Contact: Fischrestaurant Jackob, stop in and select the luncheon offerings gustinerstrasse 8, Mainz 55116, tel. DYHUDJLQJ½  Fischtorstrasse 7, Mainz 55116, tel. +49/06131/231/737 +49/06131/229/299, ZZZÀVFKMDFNREGe Contact: Haus des deutschen Weines, Rating: QUALITY 10/20, VALUE 14/20 Rating: QUALITY 11/20, VALUE 13/20 Gutenbergplatz 3-5, Mainz 55118, tel. Eisgrub-Bräu +49/06131/221/300, www.hdw-gasts- MICHELIN GERMANY taetten.de ,I\RX·YHEHFRPHDIÁLFWHGZLWKEHHU Continued from page 1 Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 14/20 hall overkill while traveling in Germany, this smaller, mellower, more intimate 100 in all the world—can easily cost $200 Heiliggeist Hausbrauerei could be the prescribed per person. Last November, New Yorker magazine recently cited a $267 chicken Crossing a few streets beyond the antidote. On an Altstadt side street entrée at a three-star Burgundian restau- Gutenberg Museum, step into a vaulted- since 1989, Eisgrub suits the purpose rant. Even a one-star restaurant, dinner for anyone aiming to “feel the pulse” of ceilinged space that began its existence for two with wine is likely to come in old-town Mainz. Brewmaster Burghardt in 1236 as a hospital’s church. September somewhere north of $250. While the buzz 1999’s thorough but preservationist- .KQRYHUVHHVWKHRXWSXWRIOLJKW about who got how many stars was good sensitive reconstruction resulted in this and dark beers. Buffet breakfast daily for publicity, after a few decades Michelin present-day restaurant and its summer- ½ EXIIHWOXQFK0RQ)UL ½  realized its restaurant star ratings were time . Old and new contrasts Dinners (recommendable Schnitzel or an exercise in elitism. So in 1997 the Bib are striking throughout. On the extensive VWHDN FRVW½$GR]HQRWKHU Gourmand symbol—a tiny red-ink sketch menu, costs of full-course meals start at choices (Bratwurst with Sauerkraut of the Michelin Man’s head—was intro- ½WRSSHGE\DULEH\HVWHDNOXQFK DPRQJWKHP UDQJH½ duced to identify restaurants that serve RUGLQQHU ½ )RUDVLPSOHUTXLFN Contact: Eisgrub-Bräu, Weislil- “good food at moderate prices.” In our bite snack, choose from eight variations iengasse 1a, Mainz 55116, tel. experience, these have been uniformly at- of crispy-crusted Croustarte pizzas +49/06131/221/104, www.eisgrub.de tractive and pleasant with excellent food, mostly traditional dishes made from ½  Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 15/20 fresh, local ingredients. Contact: Heiliggeist, Mailandgasse 11, Drei Lilien Mainz 55116, tel. +49/06131/225/757, 7KHQLQ¶FDPH%LE+RWHOVDEOXH www.heiliggeist-mainz.de In case of a mood change, take a Michelin-man–on-a-pillow emblem that LGHQWLÀHGWKHJXLGH·VEHVWLQH[SHQVLYH Rating: QUALITY 11/20, VALUE 13/20 break from hefty Germanic meals. That’s pleasingly accomplished by continuing hotels. Weinstube Lösch several blocks west of the cathedral by The addition of these two symbols Old-time woodsy with over- way of Schillerplatz, thereby reaching has been a boon to the value-conscious hanging timber beams, this intimate the “Three Lilies,” where French cooks traveler and, by themselves, are worth food-and-wine cubbyhole occupies just do their talented thing with cuisine mod- the guide’s $26 price tag. slightly enough space for its 12 close- erne, served in a rustic wood-framed, An interesting though not particular- together tables and maximum-capacity chandeliered dining room. Cognac sauce ly useful guide symbol in 2010 is a gold- 85 patrons, helpfully augmented by a adds oomph to the most-requested lunch en laurel wreath denoting establishments terrace alongside an Altstadt pedestrian and dinner entrées. Decide upon table that have, in Michelin’s words been zone. Chatty and sociable, it’s a recom- d’hote or à la carte and pay accordingly. “listed ever since the 1910 edition.” But mendable choice for Jägerschnitzel, pork Contact: Drei Lilien, Ballplatz 2, Mainz in at least one case Michelin fudges a bit. Schnitzel (both served with mushrooms) 55116, tel. +49/06131/225/068. Though Berlin’s Adlon Hotel was listed in the 2010 edition, the hotel did not exist or tender cooked-with-sauce rumpsteak. Rating: QUALITY 15/20, VALUE 13/20 6XFKIXOOFRXUVHPHDOVDYHUDJH½ between 1945 and 1997 and, since the 11.21. Fischrestaurant Jackob guide was not published between 1914 and 1964, it has actually been in just 18 Contact: :HLQVWXEH/|VFK-DNR- The city’s oldest such establishment, doing business since 1897, proudly sticks editions, not exactly a continuum. Oddly, bsbergstrasse 9, Mainz 55116, tel. the 2010 guide does not provide a list of to its reputation for meals prepared with +49/06131/220/383. these “enduring” establishments, nor are SRVLWLYHO\IUHVKFDXJKWÀVKLFHSDFNHG Rating: QUALITY 10/20, VALUE 14/20 they spotted on any of the book’s maps, and transported seacoast-to-kitchen. Augustinerkeller VRWKHUHDGHUPXVWÁLSWKURXJKWKH +HOSIXOIRUJHWWLQJRULHQWHGWKH.' plus pages to locate them. Affordable beer-hall food (including riverboat docks are scarcely two blocks salads and fresh-made desserts) and of DZD\)RUDFXOLQDU\WZLVWRUGHUÀVK %XWQHYHUPLQGZKHQLWFRPHVWR hotels and restaurants, the 2010 edition course ample quantities of beer-hall beer. lasagne or tortelloni stuffed with salmon. of the Michelin Red Guide for Germany is Choices of Rhine-region brews include A bowl loaded with steamed mussels

Gemütlichkeit 10 July 2010 http://theeuropetraveler.com www.gemut.com in a class by itself. It is the gold standard (four peaks), “very comfortable” (three roof peaks, the more forks and spoons, the of Germany guidebooks. Yes, the brief peaks), “comfortable” (two peaks) and more luxurious and expensive they are. textual descriptions of establishments “quite comfortable” (one roof peak). Though one would expect such places to are in German, but to reject the guide on Michelin recognizes there can be special serve good food—as they often do—the that basis is to overlook its most power- hotels in each of these categories and spoons and forks are not an indicator of ful features. Those one or two sentence thus marks them in red. A hotel whose cuisine quality. To establishments it feels descriptions are merely cake frost- are particularly pleasant, Michelin ing. More important are: Good Sleeps, Good Eats in One Package gives a red symbol. • Locator Maps: The book’s Top tip: This is a list of the 28 establishments that get • Quiet & Very Quiet Hotels: power to enable the user to both the Bib Gourmand and Bib Hotel designation. Hotels in a peaceful atmosphere quickly locate special hotels and are noted by a small rocking chair Schmiedegasthaus Gehrke Hirsch restaurants is embodied in the 67 Bad Nenndorf-Riepen Gengenbach-Berghaupten symbol. A red rocking chair goes to pages of maps at the back of the www.schmiedegasthaus.de www.hirsch-berghaupten.de “very quiet” or secluded hotels. book. They comprise the whole of Schaper Grieshaber’s Rebstock The highlighting of special Germany and are dotted with the Celle .HKO places is just the beginning for this symbols of the best and best value www.schaper.de www.rebstock-kehl.de great resource. Here are a few more establishments. On the road they Domschenke Zum Bad of its useful features: provide an instant picture of the Billerbeck Langenau proximity of special places to the www.domschenke-billerbeck.de www.gasthof-zum-bad.de • Town listings display con- WDFWLQIRIRUWKHORFDOWRXULVWRIÀFH traveler’s current location. Hungry Menge Am See for a great meal? Check the maps Arnsberg Regensburg-Neutraubling including email address, driving WRÀQGWKHQHDUHVWVWDUUHGRU%LE www.hotel-menge.de www.hotel-am-see.com distance to Berlin (the capital) and Gourmand restaurant. Need a good Landhotel Donner Schloss Schenke VHOHFWHGFLWLHVLQWKHUHJLRQPDMRU but inexpensive hotel? Check the Meschede-Remblinghausen Mengkofen-Tunzenberg sight-seeing attractions with Mi- www.landhotel-donner.de www.schloss-schenke-tunzenberg.de maps, there’s probably a Bib Hotel FKHOLQ·VVWDUUDWLQJIRUHDFKFRQWDFW within a 30-minute drive. The maps Seeger’s Gasthof Gasthaus zum Raben LQIRIRUQHDUE\JROIFRXUVHVSRSXOD- Northeim-Hollenstedt Horben WLRQDOWLWXGHSRVWDOFRGHV0LFKHOLQ are also of great value to the travel www.seegersgasthof.de www.raben-horben.de planner who hasn’t yet left North map coordinates, and more. Landgasthof Detsch Gasthaus Sternen Post • On pages 51-57 is a list of America. A driving itinerary can Stockheim-Haig Oberried be built around great hotels, great www.landgasthof-detsch-haig.de www.gasthaus-sternen-post.de some 350 wellness hotels alphabet- restaurants, or good value hotels ized by city. There are 13 on the alexxanders Die Krone and/or restaurants. Chemnitz Staufen island of Rügen and nine in Baiers- bronn in the Black Forest. • Bib Hotels: This outstanding www.alexxanders.de www.die-krone.de 5HG*XLGHIHDWXUHLGHQWLÀHVVRPH Erbgericht Tautewalde Rindenmühle • The listing for larger cities 250 hotels considered “good ac- Wilthen-Tautewalde 9LOOLQJHQ6FKZHQQLQJHQ includes a town map spotted with www.tautewalde.de commodation at moderate prices,” www.rindenmuehle.de major sightseeing attractions and under 90 euros for a double room Landgasthaus Blücher Reck hotels. There is also a list of restau- '|UVFKHLG with breakfast. Gemütlichkeit staff Salem-Neufrach rants open on Sunday. www.landgasthaus-bluecher.de www.recks-hotel.de experience with Bib Hotels has ‡0LFKHOLQQRZLGHQWLÀHVKR- been almost universally good. Gasthof zum Schwanen Landgasthof zum Adler tels that offer high-speed Internet Leimen-Gauangelloch Überlingen-Lippertsreute access and those with special facili- • Bib Gourmand: Michelin has www.schwanen-gauangelloch.de www.adler-lippertsreute.de ties for children. given this symbol to 369 German Zur Krone Adler restaurants where one can expect +|FKVW+HWVFKEDFK Bad Wurzach • A red grape bunch symbol a high level of cuisine, often of www.krone-hetschbach.de www.hotel-adler-bad-wurzach.de LGHQWLÀHVUHVWDXUDQWVZLWKJRRG traditional dishes prepared with Bergfriedel Herrmann wine lists. top-quality ingredients. The loca- Bühlertal Münsingen • Chart of school holidays of tions of these 369 restaurants are www.bergfriedel.de www.hotelherrmann.de each Länder (state). Weinhaus Stern displayed on two pages of maps Landhaus Tanner • A chart with international near the front of the book. Bürgstadt Waging am See www.hotel-weinhaus-stern.de www.landhaustanner.de phone dialing codes. • “Red” Markings: The device • Michelin awards three stars Michelin uses to single out “par- guide symbol is a single, red roof peak to 10 German restaurants, the most ticularly pleasant or restful” hotels and of any country except France. Oddly, restaurants is to print their symbols in might be extraordinarily charming with elegant guestrooms, it just won’t match no major German city has a three-star red. Hotels are categorized by their level restaurant. There are 18 two-stars and of luxury and services, and the hotel the depth of services of hotels with more roof peaks. There are 10 hotels in Ger- 92 one-star restaurants. Berlin leads the symbol is the outline of a building. A way with 12 starred restaurants and V\PEROZLWKÀYHURRISHDNVLVGHÀQHG PDQ\ZLWKÀYHUHGURRISHDNVDQG with one or two red roof peaks. Hamburg has 11 (all one-star), Munich by Michelin as providing “luxury in has eight, including a pair of two-stars. the traditional style.” Below that the Crossed forks and spoons is how GHÀQLWLRQVDUH´WRSFODVVFRPIRUWµ Michelin categorizes restaurants. Like • An example of a Bib Hotel, and Gemütlichkeit 11 July 2010 www.gemut.com http://theeuropetraveler.com surely one of the best deals in all Ger- detergent is adequate for two weeks of cards, and home address labels for ship- many, is the Hotel Wreecherhof (www. bathroom sink laundry. I take four wire ping gifts home. We take the addresses and wreecher-hof.de) in Putbus-Wreechen hangers and large safety pins to hang telephone numbers of cousins. For reading on the island of Rügen. This splendid clothes in the windows in the summer and we take paperback books which we read country hotel offers 43 rooms spread over near the radiators in the winter. We usu- and leave. six thatched-roof cottages on beautiful DOO\VWD\LQDKRWHOIRUWZRWKUHHQLJKWV LOUISE LAMKIN JURXQGV'RXEOHURRPVDUH½ that makes doing laundry practical. VIA EMAIL • Michelin also publishes a Red Guide I pack our clothing in zip lock bags. Crowded Trains for Switzerland but the Austria guide has Each shirt, pants, etc goes into its own bag. I enjoyed your discussion on European DSSDUHQWO\EHHQGLVFRQWLQXHG9LHQQD Socks together and underwear together rail travel. You are quite right, trains have and Salzburg are listed in Michelin’s Main JRLQWRVHSDUDWHEDJVTXDUWJDOORQDQG become very crowded indeed. I travelled Cities Red Guide. two-and-a-half gallon zip bags. That makes two weeks ago on the Berlin-Interlaken locating items easy, one can rummage train, couldn’t get a reservation three days DEAR SUBSCRIBER before departure, and made the wise deci- Continued from page 2 through the suitcase and clothes do not get messed up. For clothes that one does not sion not to enter the train in Hauptbahnhof Though North American renters are leery care about wrinkling, sit on the bag and but at the place where it originates (Ost- of Opels, Fords, Skodas (Czech-made, ]LSWDNHVOHVVVSDFHWKDWZD\$GGLWLRQDO bahnhof), as you recommend. Even there, 9:RZQHG DQG6HDWV 6SDQLVKPDGH advantages to the zip bags are when the SHRSOHZHUHÀJKWLQJIRUWKHIHZXQUH- 9:RZQHG WKH\JHWKLJKPDUNVIURP airline luggage inspectors go through the served seats (not the 30-percent you men- the automotive press. Both the European- luggage and in case the luggage sits on the tion, alas), and the platform in Hauptbahn- made intermediate Ford Mondeo and the tarmac during a rain storm. hof was packed, so eventually many people compact Ford Focus get rave reviews on ,QDVHSDUDWHFOHDU]LSSHUEDJ3HSWR were actually standing in the cars —most WKH%%&79VKRZTop Gear. Bismol, Imodium, band-aids, pain killers, unpleasant—and with a form of rowdy schoolboys, all the work I had planned to Generally speaking, European cars, zinc oxide cream, and hydrocortisone do on that trip had to be postponed for ar- especially in Germany, are tight, comfort- cream. Another bag for shoe polish, stain ULYDO*HQHUDOO\WUDLQVDUH2.EXWEHZDUH able, get better mileage than their U.S. remover, and a sewing kit. Of course I had of Fridays and Sundays! counterparts, and have frisky engines and my cosmetic case and Jerry had his shav- KARSTEN HORN good sound systems. ing kit. BERLIN, GERMANY Gemütlichkeit strongly recommends The aforementioned trip took place the rental decision be based on booking a in October-November with hat and gloves NEWS/DEALS FDUFDWHJRU\WKDWEHVWÀWVGULYHUSDVVHQ- and silk long underwear. We did not take ger and luggage needs. Given that com- KHDY\ZLQWHUFRDWVOD\HULQJZRUNHGÀQH • The Best of the Christmas Market panies guarantee by category, shopping In addition to the sweater and rain jacket Tours: There are still a few spots left in IRUDVSHFLÀFPDNHRUPRGHOLVDIXWLOH we layered with a vest and a golf wind- .DUHQ3DVROG·VDQQXDO´&KULVWPDV0DU- endeavor, likely to end in disappointment shirt. There was room in the suitcase kets of Imperial Europe,” an exclusive, or substantial inconvenience.—RHB for all of the layering garments. We each personal, upmarket tour led by Ms. bought a sweatshirt we did not need, but it Pasold, an expert on east Europe travel. READERS’ FORUM made a fun souvenir! Each year her small group experiences ÀYHVWDUDFFRPPRGDWLRQVDQGGHOYHV Travelin’ Light There was room in the suitcase for deeper into eastern Europe’s Christmas For six weeks, my husband, Jerry, and small gifts for our cousins. culture than run-of-the-mill commercial I traveled Europe by rail. Thus it was im- One comment about photos—it does junkets. This year, her 13-day, 12-night perative we not have heavy luggage to lift get monotonous with the same clothes in tour starts November 28 in Prague and onto the trains, stow aboard, lug up and all of the pictures! YLVLWV'UHVGHQ/HLS]LJ0HLVVHQ.UD- down stairs at the rail stations, and carry )RUWKHÁLJKWFKHFNLQOXJJDJHRQWKH kow, Zakopane and Warsaw, with an into our no-elevator hotels. We each had LGHQWLÀFDWLRQWDJ,DOZD\VSXWRXUGHVWL- optional three-night stay in Riga, Latvia. a 21-inch Skyway “no weight” bag and a First-rate hotels are Prague’s U. Prince, small carry-on. nation hotel with address and telephone number, our cell phone number, along with Taschenbergpalais in Dresden, Hotel Clothes worn on the trip were four an in-case-of emergency telephone number Fürstenhof in Leipzig, Palac Bonerows- VKLUWVWKUHHSDLUVRIVODFNVDVZHDWHUÀYH of someone at home. kiLQ.UDNRZDQG:DUVDZ·VBristol Ho- pair of socks, one pajamas, under-things, tel. The $4590 per person, double occu- ,QWKHVPDOOFDUU\RQSDVVSRUW*HU and one pair of shoes. (You can wear only - SDQF\SULFHLQFOXGHVÀYHVWDUKRWHOVDOO man Rail Pass, DB schedules, itinerary, one pair of shoes at a time!) If it becomes breakfasts, 11 dinners (usually including hotel reservations, cell phone with charger necessary you can always buy another EHHURUZLQH ÀYHOXQFKHVJURXQGWUDQV- pair of shoes. We also had lightweight rain and adapter, camera and extra batteries, SRUWYLDÀUVWFODVVUDLO GRXEOHVOHHSHUFDU sunglasses, glasses prescription, maps, jackets and umbrellas. compartments) or luxury motor coach, journal and pens, and a travel alarm clock. scheduled tours, all sightseeing, guides I take detergent to launder underwear, Instead of a travel guide I print informa- and tips. Info at Classic Europe, 1 Glen- socks, and shirts. We sent out the corduroy tion about the places we plan to visit. I moor, Frisco TX 75034, tel. 972-625- 6050, pants and sweaters to the hotel laundry. A pre-print address labels for mailing post- four-ounce bottle of extra strength laundry email [email protected].

Gemütlichkeit 12 July 2010