IJCC, Vol. 3 No. 2, 100 ~ 123(2000) 26
A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds
Min-Yi Nam* and Myung-Sook Han *Instructor, Joong Bu University Professor, Dept, of Clothing and Textiles, Sang Myung University
Abstract
The purpose of this research was to understand changes in Korean shrouds and to enhance practical usage of them by examing the items and shapes of Korean shrouds classified into two categories, traditional and current. We first examined the history of shrouds and funeral ceremonies from the prehistoric age to the Chos 6n dynasty, and second, examined the items and shapes of traditional and current shrouds. As for the items, no big changes were recognized though there had been some changes in the way of using Keum(^), Po(袍L and Kwadu(裏月j). Overall, the items had became somewhat simplified. The traditional shapes of shrouds are relatively -well-maintained despite some changes in current shrouds Aksu, Yeom이'女慨 etc, which had been made easier to put on.
Key words : traditional shrouds, current shrouds, the items of shrouds, the shapes of shrouds, funeral ceremonies.
and generally shown in everyday life as well as I ・ Introduction in funeral rites. Therefore, 'death' is a mournful thing but at the same time a rite that makes us Since Koreans have believed in the idea of feel reverence for the next world. the next world from ancient times, in which The rite of washing the deceased and clothing death is regarded as a departure towards a new them in ceremonial costumes is a mode of world rather than an end, they have practiced living of all times and a part of Korean culture. sincere and magnificent funerals to express their Shrouds are these ceremonial costumes fbr the respect and worship fbr the dead. The idea of dead. the next world with the belief that new life Previous studies on shrouds include papers of starts in the other world, is an outlook on life Yu, Kwansun1J, who compared the system of and death which includes the thoughts of shrouds in Korea and China and made a immortality of soul and eternal life in the world research on the actual state of shrouds, a paper after death. of Song, Nfikyeong2* \ 3 who compared Yeomseupgu This outlook on life and death is commonly (殮襲具 )in different records, and papers of Sun,
Kwansun, Yu. "A Study on Korean Shrouds*1 (Doctoral Dissertation, Jungang University, 1990). ( -100 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 27 Namsuk3), who examined the view on the next As fbr the current shrouds, the items in world connoted in shrouds and studied the current records will be compared and the shapes Yeomseup system of Dasan, a scholar of the will be described based on medium-quality Chos o n period. In addition, Seong, Kihoe4) shrouds being used now and the shrouds we described actual examples of Yeomseup and ordered from a specialist who make clothes with Chon, Yeongsuk5) also made a study on Hanji(Korean paper). shrouds. Many studies have been made on excavated II. Funeral Ceremonies and costumes by Park, Seongsil - Ko} Puja6), Yu, Huikyeong - Kim, Mija • Kang, Sunje7), Jang, Shrouds Inu8) 9, etc. However these studies are based on The first funeral in the ancient times is said the records of the Chos o n period or excavated to have started as follows. In those days, the costumes and little studies have been made on dead were thrown away in the field. Then, current shrouds. people who felt sorry to see the bodies of their The purpose of this study was to examine parents eaten by animals started to bury them*. changes in shrouds and their use and to help In the prehistoric ageI0), though we cannot be carry out actual funeral ceremonies, through the well-informed due to the absence of historical comparison of shrouds in the records of the records, it is known that people put various Chos o n period and excavated ones with burial accessories with the dead and clothed the shrouds in current literature and the ones which dead in ceremonial costumes with the considera are in use. tion to help the deceased go on living in the First, we will look into the records on other wo라 d. We know these facts through shrouds and the history of funeral ceremonies remains and old tombs of the Neolithic Age based on the literature. Then we will come to such as the shell mounds in Yongsudong(龍水 the items and shapes of the traditional shrouds. 洞 )， Woonggi(雄基 )， burial sites in caves(窟葬 ) The items will be based on the representative in Bonguiri(鳳儀里 )， Hoeryeonggun and Kydong, books on ceremonies of the Chos o n period, Chunchon, shell mounds in Sido, Ongjingun, when the basic ceremonies were well-organized. Kyonggi Province and Yokjidon)• Yeondaedo, Drawings from the books on ceremonies and Tongyeonggun, Kyongnam Province and San- excavated costumes will be the main material deungpaechong(山登貝塚 )in Sangnodaedo'2). fbr the discussion on the shapes. The records on the funeral ceremonies and Seong, Kihoe. "Yeomseupgo", The Collection of Kwandong University Thesis 8 (Kwandong University, 1981). 5 Yeongsuk, Chon. "A Study on Shrouds", The Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 1(2), (1977). 6 Seongsil, Park and Puja, Ko. A Study on the Remains Excavated from the Dongrae Jungs1 Family Mound. Danguk University Seokjuseon Folk Museum, 1989. 7 Huikyeong, Yu., Mija, Kim and Sunje, Kang. A Report on the Excavation of the Andong Kims' Family Mound. (Onyang F이 k-Museum Research Institute of Culture, 1989). 8 Inu, Jang. 1995. 11A Study on the General Dress and Ornaments among the Excavated Costumes of the mid-Chos o n Period" (Doctoral Dissertation, Dongguk University. 1995). 9 The Book of Changes(周易)Vol.23.繫辭下 ’古之葬者厚衣之以薪葬之中野不封不樹喪期牙數後世 聖人易之以棺槨 The Works of Mencius(孟子)Vol.5.勝文公上 . 10 The prehistoric age ranges from the Paleolithic Age to the early Iron Age. -101 - 28 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC shrouds of the Kory o period appear in the mately the same time with Kogury 6. From Koryo section of「Dongjjeon（ 東夷傳 ） 」from these facts it is believed that the beginning of 『Namsa（ 南史 ） 』，『Wise。（ 魏書 ） 』，rSamkukji（ funeral costumes such as shrouds and mourning 三國志 ） 』• It says that lOnce a man and a according to the funeral procedures was in woman get married, they prepare clothes fbr fluenced by the idea of the next world with the funeral …13* 12） belief in immortality of soul. It is assumed that At the Paekche section in「YiyeoReon（異域 funeral costumes were socially institutionalized 傳 ） 」of『Juseo（ 周書 ） 』and「Paekchejeon（ 百濟 after they stopped the burial of the living with 傳 ） 」of ^uksa（ 北史 ） j, it says that 'When one's the dead17）. parent or husband dies, one puts on mourning Records about the clothes with the same fbr three years. Other relatives go out of concept as shrouds, along with the word mourning once the funeral is over'서 ） .' Yeomseup appear fbr the first time in the It says at the Silla section in rDongijeonj literature of those days and the period of time of『Suseo（ 隨書 ） 』that4When a man dies, people of Chojong or to wear mourning is also shown make a coffin and carry out Yeomseup and after in the records. From all these, we can guess that funeral they make a tomb. Even when a king, a certain degree of funeral procedures had been parent, or a wife and children die, one wears socially formed since that time. mourning just for one year15V 16 Then funeral ceremonies influenced by Budd It says at the Kory o section in rDongijeonj of hism in Unified Silla went on till Kory o. In rSuseoj that 'When a person dies, the coffin is the end of Kory 5, the representative funeral placed in a room until three years has passed. ceremonies of Chos o n started with the adoption Then the funeral is held on an auspicious day. of『Karye（ 家禮 ） 』by Chuhsi. When one's parent or husband dies, one is in According to the foregoing, it can be mourning fbr three years. When it is a brother, assumed that ceremonies regarding death had the mourning period is three months. During been practiced before the first records on them Chojong（ 初終 ） everyone weeps but once the appeared and the basic funeral procedures were funeral is over, they dance to the drum and play carried out in the Three Kingdoms period. The music as a rite of seeing dead person ofF?' procedures seem to have been nationally The burial of the living person with the dead institutionalized in the Chos o n period. This is was prohibited under King Dongcheon（ 東川 ） 's also supported by the fact that there are rule（King Dongcheon, 248） in Kogury o * In concrete records on funeral procedures including Silla, the burial of the living was banned and Chojong and costumes fbr Yeomseup（ 殮襲 ） such the regulation on mourning attire was made in as Seup（ 襲 ） ，Soryeom（ 小斂 ） ， and Daeiyeom（ 大 the early sixth century. Paekche organized the 斂 ） in various books on ceremonies of the time. system regarding mourning attire at approxi The costumes for Yeomseup of the Chos o n Yeon아 lui, Han. wYokjido", A Report on Remains Research of the Chiryu National Museum Vol. 3. （The Chinju National Museum, 1974）. 12 Dongho, Kim and Kubyeong, Park. 1973. “Sandeungpaechong（ 山登貝塚 ） ”， A Research Report on Remains by the Museum of National Fisheries University of Pusan. Vol.l. National Fisheries University of Pusan, 1973, p.56. 13 Minsu, Yi. （trans.）, Chos 5gn（朝鮮傳）、（Tamgudang, 1995）. 14 Minsu, Yi. Ibid., p.201 15 Minsu, Yi. Ibid、p.223. 16 Minsu, Yi. Ibid., p.210. 17 The Nation신 Folk Museum of Korea. The Funeral Rites of Korea. Mijinsa. 1990, p.159. -102 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Joum시 of Costume Culture 29 period are regarded as traditional shrouds in this In the case of a king's Seup, Konryongpo, study. everyday dress fbr a king, and Dapho, Cheopri with them, and Dapho, Cheopri again worn ID. The Items of Shrouds inside Danryeong are used. Dapho and Cheopri are repetitively used as many as three times and 1. The Items of Tradition시 Shrouds nine Chings are used in all. Sukwan is also According to『KuKjo'oryeui（ 國朝五禮儀 ） 如 a worn. In the Saseoin* Seup, three Chings of representative book on ceremonies, the items Danryeong, Dapho, and Cheopri appear in the used in Seup（ 襲 ） ，the procedure of putting records. Bokgeon is used fbr Saseoin. clothes one upon another, fbr kings* funerals are In Daeryeom, 90 Chings of clothes fbr a king as follows : Daedae, Konryongpo（a Royal robe） and 30 Chings fbr Saseoin are said to have been [Jangsam（ 長衫 ） ， Ui（衣 ） ， Sang（ 裳 ） ， and Hansam in use. （ 汗衫 ） are used in women's funeral.], Jeosa（ 紆 In『Sangryebiyo（喪禮備要 ） 』， the funeral pro 絲 ） ， Dapho（ 裕護 ） ， Cheopri（ 帖裏 ） ， Ra Danryeong cedures are divided by the word, Jigu（ 之具 ） and （ 羅團領 ） ， Dapho, Cheopri, Hongjeosa Danryeong, it is the feature that distinguishes the book from Dapho, Cheopri, Baekcho（ 白綃 ： white silk）, others. However, there is no big difference in Kwadu（ 裹肚 ） ， Baekcho Hansam, two pairs of the procedures. The procedures related to Baekcho Ko（pants）, a pair of Baekcho Mai 아 irouds are Chcjongjigu（ 初終之具 ） , Seupgu（ 襲 （Beoseon）, and all over these, Dapho, which is 具 ） ， Soryeomjigu（小斂之具 ） ， and Daeryeomjigu used in all nine Ching（ 稱 :a kind）s5 Manggeon （ 大斂之 具） . （ 網巾 ） -Sukwan（首官 ） fbr the head, two Chun- As the clothes fbr Seupgu（ttM）, there are gee（ 充耳 ） s, Myeongmok（ 暝目 ） ， two Aksu（ 握手 ） Bokgeon, Manggeon, Myeongmok, Aksu（2）, Si- s, a pair of Ri（ 履 ） mui（ 深衣 ） or Danryeong? Dapho, Jikryeong（ 直 On the procedure of Soryeom, when the body 領 ） ]When it is a woman's funeral, Wonsam（ 圓 is covered and tied after Seup, Kyopo（ 絞布 ） , 衫 ） or MongduPi（ 蒙頭衣 ） and Jangoja（ 長襖子 ） .], Sanui, and 19 Chings of Yeomui are used. In Daedae, Hansam, Kwadu, Ko, Danko（ 單袴 ） ， Daeryeom, when the body after Soryeom is Neukbaek（ 勒帛 ） ， Mal（襪 ） ， Chungee, Ri. covered and tied with Kyopo, quilt, and clothes In Soryeomjigu, there are Ryeo（M）, Seok（M）, and placed in a coffin, a Seup of Myeonbok（ 冕 Yok（ 褥 ） ，Chim（ 寢 ），Byeongpwig（ 屛風 ） ， Sepo（ 糸田 月艮 ） ， Sanui, and 90 Chings of Yeomui are used. 布 ） ， Keum（ 衾 ） ， 19 Chings of Sanui as Yeomui. Keummo and Boswae are also put to use in this Daeryeomjigu requires Ryeo, Yok（ 褥 ） ，Seok procedure191. （ 席 ） ，Chim（tt）, Sep。（ 糸田布 ） ， Keum, Sanui [30 On the procedure of Se나 p fbr the funerals of Chings fbr Seonbi（ 士 ） and 50 Chings for Daebu. Daebu（ 大夫 ： high officials） • Saseoin（ 士庶人 ： However, there is no strict law regarding this noblemen and commoners）, Daedae（ 大帶 ） ， Heuk- and the number varies according to one's wonryeong（ 黑圓領 ） ， Dapho, Cheopri, Kwadu, Han financial situation”、] sam, Ko（袴 ） ， Mal（襪 ） ， Manggeon, Bokgeon（ft Seupuiv in『Sangrye'eonhae（ 喪禮諺解 ） 』are 巾 ） ， Chungee, Myeongmok, Aksu, Ri are needed. Bokgeon[Yeomo for a woman's funeral.], Chun- Yeompo, Sanui, 19Chings of Yeomui in Soryeom, gee, Manggeon, Myeongmok, Aksu, Simui （or and Yeompo, 30 Chings of Sanui in Daeryeom Danryeong, Jikryeong. For a woman, Wonsam, are used* 1920） 21. Mongdu'ui, Jangoja.）, Daedae, Hansam, Po, Au K나扣이yeui（國朝五禮圈, Vol. 7. Hyungrye（ 凶禮 ） , Seup（ 襲 ） . 19 Ibid., Vol. 7. Hyungrye, Soryeom, Daeryeom. 20 lb너., Vol. 7. Hyungrye. Sang（ 喪 ） • Seup（ 襲 ） • Soryeom of Saseoin（ 士庶人 ） . 21 Say皙yebiyo（喪禮備要）.上 18. Daeryeomjigu（ 大斂之 具） .’…士三十稱大夫五十稱無側隨所有 ….' -103 - 30 A Study on the Items and Shsqies of Korean Shrouds IJCC Myeongmok Myeongmok Myeongmok Myeongmok Myeongmok Myeongmok Kwadu Baekchokwadu Kwadu Kwadu Kwadu Kwadu （ 褰肚 ） Su'ui（ 手衣 ） Aksu2 Aksu Aksu Aksu Aksu Aksu Footwear Baekchomal2 Mai M 시 Mai Mai Mai （ 足衣 ） Ri（ 履 ）（a pair） Ri Ri Ri Ri Chaehye 5chingdapho （3 ching for 9Ching dapho 5pum（ 品 ） and downward） Sanui, Sanui, Kangsa Danryeong, Sanui Soryeom polseup, Yeo Sanuil9ching Yeomui 19ching muil9ching 19ching Myeonboklse Sa효 ui（Seon up, Sanui, Ye bi:30ching, Danryeong, Daeryeom omui90ching, Daebu:50ch 50ching Sanui30ching Mo（Boswae, ing,no strict Keummo） regulation） （ 襖 a woman's funeral, a skirt is used.）, Kos Danko, Haengjeon, Mai, Ri22）. On the Sang Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 31 \ Books The Constitution of Korean Clothes Traditional Etiquette of Current shrouds Traditional Hanbok (Seok, Juseon) Korea(Yu, Songok) in use (Park, Yeongsun) Items \ man woman man woman man woman man woman Simui,Hakch Simui, angui,Dopo, Simui, Simui • Pyoui Wonsam, Changui, Wonsam Jungchimak, Changui, Wonsam Dopo, Wonsam （ 表衣 ） Dangui Kyeopot Changui, Kyeopot Durumagi Ju'ui Samhoejangj eogori Samhoejangj Samhoejang, Jeogori (yellowish Yu（ 襦） eogori, Jeogori Pink Jeogori Jeogori Upper green, Jeogori Kycopj eogori garments yellow) inner inner inner inner Jeoksam Jeoksam Jeoksam Jeoksam Jeoksam Jeoksam Jeoksam Jeoksam blue - red pants Ko（ 袴 ） skirt pants skirt pants pants skirt Under Soksokgot, inner Koui Dansokgot Koui Dansokgot inner pants inner pants inner skirt garments Dansokgot pants, pants Ko, Soko pants inner pants Bokgeon Yeomo Bokgeon Bokgeon Yeomo Bokgeon Yeomo Manggeon Du'ui （ 頭衣 ） Myeongmok Myeongmok Myeokmok Myeokmok Myeongmok Myeonmok Myeongmok Myeongmok Kwadu Kwadu Kwadu Kwadu Kwadu Kwadu Jodae,Yodae, Dae belt, Jodae, belt, Daedae, Wonsam tti Danim, Jodae Wonsamtti (帶 ) Daenim Daedae Daenim Daenim Haengjeon Kwadu Kwadu Bokbo Bokbo （ 裹肚 ） Su'ui Aksu Aksu Aksu Aksu （ 手衣 ） Footwear Beoseon Mai Beoseon Beoseon (足衣 ) Seupsin Seupri（ 襲履 ） Seupsin Seupsin Onang Onang Onang Daeryeomkeum Daeryeomkeum Daeryeomkeum Soryeomkeum Soryeomkeum Soryeomkeum Cheonkeum Cheonkeum Cheonkeum Cheonkeum Others Jiyo • pillow Jiyo - Chim(Jt) Jiyo, pillow Jiyo, pillow Chungee • Chungee • Tosi • Tosu - Yeompo Tosu Yumokjam Yumokjam -105 - 32 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC （ 床 ） for Soryeom, a mat, an under coverlet, and upper garment, 19 Chings of Sanui are used. a pillow are placed and Kyopo, a coverlet, and Daeryeom requires five poks of horizontal and clothes are spread231. After Kyopo, a coverlet, three poks of vertical as Kyopo and 50 Chings and Sanui for Daeiyeom are spread, the rest of of Sanui28）. the procedures are the same as those in Karye Men's shrouds in the literature are Danr- （ 家禮 ） 거 ） . yeong, Simui, Dapho, Cheopri, Hansam, Poau, Seupui in『3yeSnhae（ 家禮諺解 ） 』includes Bo- Ko, Danko, Daedae, Bokgeon, Manggeon, Neu- kgeon, Simui, Daedae, Ri, Chungee, Myeong- kbaek, etc. In addition to these, there is Jung- mok, Aksu, Po, Au（ 襖 ） ，Hansam, Ko, Mai, chimak29） 30from excavated costumes. Neukbaek, Kwadu. In Soryeom, as Kyopo, three Women's shrouds in the literature include pok（ 幅 ） s of horizontal and a pok of vertical , Simui, Hansam, Poau, Samja, Um, Sa, along which are made of Be or silk, are spread on with the items used fbr both men and women. Sisang（ 尸牀 ） .After a coverlet and clothes are There are also Jangui（ 長衣 ） and Myeongui（ 明 spread on it, the body is placed. Empty spaces 衣 ）3이 from excavated ones. The items fbr both are filled and the body is covered with a men and women are Myeommok, Kwadu, On- coverlet2522 2324）. In Daeryeom, the body is moved into ang（ 五囊 ） ,Aksu, Beoseon, Seupsin, Daeryeom a coffin and tied with Kyopo. As Daeryeomkyo, keum, Soryeomkeum, Cheonkeum, Jiyo, a pillow, three pieces vertically, five pieces horizontally etc. are used26）. In『Saryepyeonram（ 四禮便覽 ） 』， Seupui for a 2. The Items of Current Shrouds man are Bokgeon, Manggeon, Simui, Danr- According to the current literature, there are a yeong, Dapho, Jikryeong, Daedae, Kwadu, Poau, variety of men's outer garments including Simui, Hansam, Ko, Danko, Sodae（ 小帶 ） ， Neukbaek, Hakchan明 i（ 鶴磐衣 ） ， Chmgui（ 馨衣 ） ， Dopo（ 道袍 ） , Ri, Chungee, Myeongmok, Aksu, Mai. For a Kyeopt, Jungchimak, Ju'ui（ 周衣 ） ， etc. However, woman's ceremony, Um, Sa（ 纏 ） ，Simui or only Simui, Dopo, and Durumagi are in actual Danui, Wonsam or Jangoja, Dae滯 ） ， Samja, use. Poau（ three Chings of Jeogori）, Sosam（ 小衫 ） , The items fbr women shown in the literature Kwadu, Sang（ 裳 ） , Ko, Danko, Cha나 ］ ye（ 彩鞋 ） , are Dangui, Samhoejang Jeogori（yellowish green）, Chungee, Myeongmok, Aksu, Mai, Ko, Geopo inner Jeogori, Samhoejang Jeogori （yellow）, inner （ 擧布 ） are named27）. Jeoksam, red skirts, blue skirts, Dansokgot, In Soryeom, three poks of horizontal po and pants, Sokgot, Yeomo etc31\ Also Hoejang a pok of vertical po, with each pok cut in three Jeogori, pink Jeogori, Dansang32） are mentioned long pieces, are needed. Also, a coverlet and an in records. The items which are mainly used are 22 Hong, Yunpyo. SangryWetmhae（喪禮諺解）、Hongmungak, 1997, p.20. 23 Hong, Yunpyo. Ibid., p.41. 24 Hong, Yunpyo. Ibid., pp.51-56. 25 Hong, Yunpyo. KaryePonhae（家禮諺解）,Hongmungak, 1984, pp.356-35& 26 Hong, Yunpyo, Ibid., pp.370-375. 27 Korean Institute of Cultural Sciences. Saryepyeonram（四禮便覽）.Vol.3. Sang（ 喪 丄 Seup（ 襲 ） . 28 Korean Institute of Cultural Sciences. Ibid., V어 3 Sang（ 喪 ） , Soryeom（ 小斂 ） , D&eryeom（ 大斂 ） , 29 Yu, Kwansun. Ibid., p.14. Jeongmungggjiqjon응 rok（ 正文公眞終錄 ） 30 Yu, Kwansun. Ibid., p.14. Chungmungongjmjongrok（ 忠文公眞終錄 ） 31 Yu, Kwansun. Ibid., p.124. 32 Kim, Sukdang. The Collection on Sewing of Chosdn. Minsokwon, 1925, p. 178. -106 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 33 Wonsam or Dangui（ 唐衣 ） ， Jeogori, inner Jeo- ksam, skirt, Dansokgot, pants, inner pants（or Soksokgot）, Yeomo. The common items for men and women are Myeonmok, Kwadu} Onang, Beoseon} Seupsin, Daeryeomkeum, Cheonkeum, Jiyo, pillows. IV. The Shapes of Shrouds 1. The Shapes of Traditional Shrouds 興 _竞츠 1） Men's Shrouds 惡 ⑴Simui（深衣 ） Simui is an Uisangyeonui（ 衣裳連衣 ） ， that is, a clothes with upper and lower parts attached together at the waistline. It has four pieces each for the front and the back including Mompan（ 衣 身 ） and sleeves33） 34. Its upper part has short Gils like those of （2） Daedae（ 大帶 ） （3） Danryeong（ 圍領 ） It's a belt tied on Simui. The inside and Danryeong was introduced from Tang by outside of Daedae are made of white Ju（ 紬 ） and Kim Chun-chu in the second year of Queen red and green lines are put around. For a Jindeok's rule and was worn as an official outfit 33 The National Folk Museum of Korea. The Dress and Ornaments of Korea 2000. Sinyu, 1995, p.232. 34 Seok, Juseon. Korean Clothes, Kwangmum publishing, 1961, p.110. 35 Yu, Songok. The History of Korean Dress and Ornaments, Suhaksa, 1980, p.332. 36 Seok, Juseon. op. cit., p.110. 37 KuRjo'oryeui（國朝五禮儀）Vol. 8. Hyungrye（ 凶禮 ） . 38 Sangry아）iyo（喪禮備要） 上 . Daedae（ 大帶 ） . -107 - 34 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC clothes'가 * 〈Fig. 3> Danryeong （The Dress and Ornaments of Korea 2000, p.160） for government officials till the end of Chos o n. Kings and subjects put on Danryeong in their ordinary life. It is an outer gannent with a round collar and long enough to cover the whole body刑 . （4） Dapho Yu, Kwansun. op. cit., p.18. 40 KuW아（國朝五禮儀）Vol.8. Hyungrye（ 凶禮 ） . Funerals for Daebu（ 大夫 ） • Saseoin（ 士庶人 ） . 41 Sangry아）iyo（喪禮備甄 上 . 6. 42 Saryepyeonram（Vol. 3. Sang（ 喪 ） .9. 43 Kim, Yeongsuk. A Dictionary of Korean Costume Culture, Misulmimhwa, 1998, p.122. -108 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 35 44 Kim, Yeongsuk, Ibid., p.253. 45 The National Folk Museum of Korea, op. cit., p.231, 46 Yu, Songok. op. cit., p.333. 47 Kim, Yeongsuk. op. cit., p.207. 48 （國朝五禮儀）Vol. 7. Hyungrye（ 凶禮 ） .Funerals fbr Daebu（ 大夫 ） -Saseoin（ 士庶人 ） . 49 The National Folk Museum of Korea, op、cit., p.232. 109 - 36 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC 50 The National Folk Museum of Korea, Ibid., p.235. 51 Onyang Folk-Museum, op. cit., p.202. 52 Yu, Songok. op. cit., p.335. 53 Saryepyeonram（ 四醴便覽 ） Vol. 3. Sang（ 喪 ） ，10. 54 Onyang Folk-Museum, op. cit., p.215. -110 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 37 （4） Poau（ 袍襖 ） It is a long Jeogori, a kind of Jungchimak or winter clothes, which is stuffed with cotton （Seolui :褻衣 ）1 Au（ 襖 ） means "stuffed with cotton. For the funerals of women, Poau is used for the upper, and Sang58） is for the lower 55 Saryepyegam（四禮便覽 Vol. 3. Sang（ 喪 ） . 56 Onyang Folk-Museum, op. cit., p.209. 57 The National Folk Museum of Korea, op. cit., p.235. 58 Scmgryebiyo（喪禮備甄上 6. 59 The National Folk Museum of Korea, op. cit., p.235. 60 Saryepyeomam（ 四禮便覽 ） ， Vol.3. Sang（ 喪 ） -111 - 38 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC 두 希 심 亠 인 人보 婦 힘 卜 뒤 뒤 棗 廣 s 也 쟈 광 로 。 로 가목 이 히 ¥ 온 ^ 专 ~ ",用 가 - 복 구 ▲ 라 ?, 자 이 F1n 기 오 / 라 라 하 /미， ， 3） Common Shrouds （1） Myeongmok（ 暝目 ） It covers and wraps the face. According to 61 Yu, Songok. op.cit., p.335. 62 Yu. Songok, Ibid., p.235. 63 The National Folk Museum of Korea, op. cit., p.235. 64 Kukjo'어yeui（國朝五禮衣, Vol. 8. Hyungrye（ 凶禮 ） . Funerals for Daebu（ 大夫 ） • Saseoin（ 士庶人 ） . -112 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 39 充 手握 （3） Chungee（ 充耳 ） It is explained in T Saryepyeonram（四禮便覽）,Vol. 3. Sang（ 喪 ） .9. Ku©oWyeui（國朝五禮衣）,Vol. 8. Hymgrye（ 凶禮 ） .Funerals fbr Daebu（ 大夫 ） • Saseoin（ 士庶人 ） . 67 Korea University Institute of Korean Culture, The Encyclopedia of Korean Fork Customs, Korea University Press, 1980, p. 248. Saryepyeonram（四體便勤 Vol. 3. Sang（ 喪 ） .10. 113 - 40 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC pok of vertical po(divided into 3), which is long enough to wrap the body from the head to the feet and tie in the nHddle of the body, is put on the horizontal po. And then wrap and tie the body70) (8) Daeryeomkeum(大散衾 ) It has the same shape as the Kyopo in Soryeom, and only the size is different. (5) Mal(») It is Beoseon, a kind of footwear. Sometimes 圖笈龛欽心 it was stuffed with cotton, and sometimes with two plies. 는 (6) Ri(fi) 積든 敍 九 It is a kind of shoes.『Saryepyeomam(四禮便 든 覽 )』says that it is made of Jopo(阜布 )or 드 Heukkye이 !(黑絹 ), and its shape is the same as that of the coming-of-age ceremony69) (7) Sorycomkeum(小斂衾 ) Keum usually means quilt, but this Soryeom- keum means Kyopo(絞 布).First, put 3 poks of 69 『Saryepyeonram(四禮便覽 )』.Vol. 3. 70 Song, Mikyong. op. cit., p.29. -114 — Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 41 as horizontal ones, and five among six pieces (5) Jeogori • Jeoksam Men's Jeogori is longer and wider at the lower part than women's one, and Baerae and Song, Mikyong. Ibid., p.279. 72 Lee, Juwon. op. cit., p.296. 115 - 42 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC Doryeon are not so round. (7) N에止 baek(勒帛 ) Today's Jeogori fbr shrouds is made with the It is worn around the calves and shanks. inner Jeoksam attached on its collar fbr the convenience in clothing the dead Yu, Songok. op. cit., p.332. 116 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 43 attached on are used fbr the shroud pants Yu, Songok. op. cit., p.333. —117 - 44 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds ncc (2) Kwadu (4) Beoseon (8) Daeryeomkum The same as the current Beoseon. The size is three pok or five pok (5) Seupsin (9) Cheonkeum • Jiyo • Pillow Seupsin is made of Be or paper just in formal Cheonkeum is a quilt that covers over the meaning 75 Korea University, op. ciL, p.248. -118 _ Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 45 shrouds such as Simui, men's pants and Jeogori, Wonsam, women's Jeogori and skirt, and _ 119 - 46 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC shrouds, a three-pok quilt is also used, and sometimes Po with a cross shape, which plays the role of Daeryeompo and Soryeompo, is used fbr wrapping the body after Yeomseup. The items that were included in the traditional shrouds, such as Danryeong, Dapho, Cheopri, Hansam, Poau, Samja, Um, are not included in the current shrouds items any more. Dopo, Durumagi, Changot, Kyeopot are newly rising items that can be found in the current literature, but Changot and Kyeopot are not popular items these days. In conclusion, there is no big differences between traditional shrouds and current shrouds. The only distinguishable change is simplification of Aksu, Keum（ 衾 ） ，Po（匏 ） ， and the change in the meaning of Kwadu which used to mean the cover of abdomen. V. Conclusion No one can avoid death. Death is a gate towards the end of this world. It is funeral ceremonies that are carried out on this procedure of moving towards the next world. Through the funeral ceremonies, people express their utmost respect fbr the departure to a new world by clothing the deceased in ceremonial -120 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 47 regulations on mourning attire was established. Yeomui and Sanui are not used any more. It seems that the basic funeral procedures were The shapes of the shrouds have changed. In practiced with the funeral ceremonies that had the Chos o n period, they made complete gar been socially institutionalized. In the Kory 6 ments separately and sewed them together to period, cremation was widely practiced under make it easy to clothe the dead. Nowadays, the influence of Buddhism. In the Chos 6 n however, they attach two or three items of period, ceremonies regarding death were insti shrouds to one collar or one waistband from the tutionalized by the government ideology of Con very start when they make them. The shapes of fucianism. other items such as Aksu, Myeongmok, and We examined the funeral procedures in the Seupsin have also been simplified fbr the representative books on ceremonies of the convenience in clothing the dead. Choson period, ^Kukjo'oiyeuij,『Sangryebiy。』， The photographs in this paper are of the rSangrye'eonhaej], ^Xarye'eonhaej, and『Saryep- medium-quality shrouds used in Yeonhwahoe yeonram』. and of the shrouds we ordered to be made. That There was no difference in the items and may have put some limitation on this study. We shapes between kings and others except that hope this will help further studies regarding this more Chings were added fbr the kings' funerals. subject. There were differences in the number of Chings according to the status because the clothes the References dead used to wear during their lifetime became their shrouds. -121 - 48 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC and Ornaments. Yeolhwadang. on Old Tombs. Woongjin Publishing. Kim, Kwanbong, 1987. Ceremonial Occasions. Jang, Inu. 1988, The 16th and 17th Century Taeseo Publishing. Dress and Ornaments from Korean Tombs. Kim, Deukjung, Yu, Songok, and Whang, Hakyeonmunhwasa. Hyeseong. 1988. Traditional Etiquette of Chon, kyeongsu（translator）. 1985. Tongkwauirye. Korea. Korean Cultural Assets Preservation Ulyumunhwasa. Foundation. Chosun Daily. 1988. Standard Home Ceremo Kim, Sukdang. 1925. The Collection on Sewing nies. of Choso n. Minsokwon. Cho, Yan^e. 1984. Kajeongbogam, Ilsinseojeok. Kim, Wonryong. 1974. Korean Old Tombs. Cho, Hyosun. 1989. Dress and Ornaments. Memorial Group for King Sejong. Daewonsa. 1985. Hanbok in Life, Kyemon- Kim, Chundong. 1987. U*je이igsango（云丁散薦. gsa. Korea University Institute of Korean Cul Choi, Deoksu. 1990. A Complete Book on the ture. Ceremonial Occasions. Ilsimmunhwasa. Park, Jangkyu. 1999. Saryechamgopyeonram（S3 Korean Institute of Cultural Sciences. Saryepy- 禮參考便覽）.Samkwakkum. eonram（四禮便鶏. Park, Yeongsun. 1993. The Constitution of Hong, Yunpyo. 1984. Karye io汕ae（家禮諺阁. Traditional Hanbok. Sinyangsa. Hongmungak. Seok, Juseon. 1961. Korean Clothes. Kwang- Hong, Yunpyo. 1997. Sangry爽onhae（喪禮諺 mum publishing. 1985. Clothes. Dankuk 阍.Hongmungak. University. Son, Kyeon^a and Kim, Yeongsuk. 1982. The -122 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 49 Dopo Style. Doctoral Dissertation, Seoul Yu, Huikyeong, Kim, Mija, and Kang, Sunje. Women's University. 1989. Yeomseupui. A Report on the Exca Lee, Jongseon. 1975. A Study on the Korean vation of the Andong Kims' Family Mound. Funeral and Ancestor Memorial Ceremonies. Onyang Folk-Museum Research Institute of The Thesis Collection of Kukmin University. Culture. Kukmin University. Jang, Inu. 1995. A Study on the General Dress Yu, Kwansun, 1990. A Study on Korean and Ornaments among the Excavated Cos Shrouds. Doctoral Dissertation, Jungang Uni tumes of the mid-Choso n Period. Doctoral versity. 1998. Comparison of the Shrouds Dissertation. Dongguk University. Shown in Literature and the Current Sh Chon, Yeongsuk. 1977. A Study on Shrouds. rouds, Dress and Ornaments Vol.39. The The Journal of the Korean Society of Clo Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. thing and Textiles 1(2). The Journal of the 1999. A Study on the Korean and Chinese Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. Akgu. Dress and Ornaments 47. The Jour J나 ng, Hyekyeong. 1990. A Study on Simui. nal of the Korean Society of Costume. Doctoral Dissertation. Pusan University. -123 - Yeomseupui in the Literature of the Chos6n Period 、、 Books Saryepyeonram KuRjo Wy响（ 國朝五禮儀 ） Sangrye'eon （ 四禮便覽 ） Sangryebiyo Karye'eonhae Daebu（ 大夫 ） hae （ 喪禮備要 ） （ 家禮諺解 ） King -Saseoin （ 喪禮諺解 ） Man Woman Items 、、 （ 士庶人 ） Konryongpo Jeosadapho Cheopri Radanryeong Simui • Dapho Simui, Simui, Danui, Pyoui（ 表衣 ） Cheopri Dapho Dapho Wonsam - Hongjeosadanr Jangoja Heukdanryeong yeong Dapho Dapho Cheopri Cheopri Hansam, Upper Hansam, Jeoksam, Hansam, Hansam, Baekchohansam Hansam Poau, garments Poau Poau Poau Poau Samja Under Baekchoko2 Ko Ko, Danko Ko, Danko Ko Ko, Danko Ko, Danko garment Daedae, Seupui Daedae Daedae Daedae Daedae Daedae Daedae Dae（ 帶 ） Sodae （ 襲衣 ） Neukbaek Haengjeon Neukbaek Neukbaek Sukwan（ 首冠 ） Bokgeon Bokgeon Bokgeon Bokgeon Um Manggeon Manggeon Manggeon Manggeon Manggeon DMi（ 頭衣 ） Chungee2 Chungee Chungee Chungee Chungee Chungee
The Comparison of the Shrouds Items
shows the comparison of the items of shrouds in the current literature and those in practical use.