IJCC, Vol. 3 No. 2, 100 ~ 123(2000) 26 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds Min-Yi Nam* and Myung-Sook Han *Instructor, Joong Bu University Professor, Dept, of Clothing and Textiles, Sang Myung University Abstract The purpose of this research was to understand changes in Korean shrouds and to enhance practical usage of them by examing the items and shapes of Korean shrouds classified into two categories, traditional and current. We first examined the history of shrouds and funeral ceremonies from the prehistoric age to the Chos 6n dynasty, and second, examined the items and shapes of traditional and current shrouds. As for the items, no big changes were recognized though there had been some changes in the way of using Keum(^), Po(袍L and Kwadu(裏月j). Overall, the items had became somewhat simplified. The traditional shapes of shrouds are relatively -well-maintained despite some changes in current shrouds Aksu, Yeom이'女慨 etc, which had been made easier to put on. Key words : traditional shrouds, current shrouds, the items of shrouds, the shapes of shrouds, funeral ceremonies. and generally shown in everyday life as well as I ・ Introduction in funeral rites. Therefore, 'death' is a mournful thing but at the same time a rite that makes us Since Koreans have believed in the idea of feel reverence for the next world. the next world from ancient times, in which The rite of washing the deceased and clothing death is regarded as a departure towards a new them in ceremonial costumes is a mode of world rather than an end, they have practiced living of all times and a part of Korean culture. sincere and magnificent funerals to express their Shrouds are these ceremonial costumes fbr the respect and worship fbr the dead. The idea of dead. the next world with the belief that new life Previous studies on shrouds include papers of starts in the other world, is an outlook on life Yu, Kwansun1J, who compared the system of and death which includes the thoughts of shrouds in Korea and China and made a immortality of soul and eternal life in the world research on the actual state of shrouds, a paper after death. of Song, Nfikyeong2* \ 3 who compared Yeomseupgu This outlook on life and death is commonly (殮襲具 )in different records, and papers of Sun, Kwansun, Yu. "A Study on Korean Shrouds*1 (Doctoral Dissertation, Jungang University, 1990). (<Comparison of the Shrouds Shown in Literature and the Current Shrouds*', Dress and Ornaments, Vol. 39. (The Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 1998), pp.257-269 2 Mikyeong, Song. "A Study on YeomseupuiH (Master's Thesis, Seoul Women's University, 1989). 3 Namsuk, Sun. "A Study on the Outlook on the Next World Shown in Shrouds(Master's Thesis, Sejong University, 1992). "A Study on Dasan's Yeomseupui" (Doctoral Dissertation, Sejong University, 1999). -100 - Vol. 3 No. 2 The International Journal of Costume Culture 27 Namsuk3), who examined the view on the next As fbr the current shrouds, the items in world connoted in shrouds and studied the current records will be compared and the shapes Yeomseup system of Dasan, a scholar of the will be described based on medium-quality Chos o n period. In addition, Seong, Kihoe4) shrouds being used now and the shrouds we described actual examples of Yeomseup and ordered from a specialist who make clothes with Chon, Yeongsuk5) also made a study on Hanji(Korean paper). shrouds. Many studies have been made on excavated II. Funeral Ceremonies and costumes by Park, Seongsil - Ko} Puja6), Yu, Huikyeong - Kim, Mija • Kang, Sunje7), Jang, Shrouds Inu8) 9, etc. However these studies are based on The first funeral in the ancient times is said the records of the Chos o n period or excavated to have started as follows. In those days, the costumes and little studies have been made on dead were thrown away in the field. Then, current shrouds. people who felt sorry to see the bodies of their The purpose of this study was to examine parents eaten by animals started to bury them*. changes in shrouds and their use and to help In the prehistoric ageI0), though we cannot be carry out actual funeral ceremonies, through the well-informed due to the absence of historical comparison of shrouds in the records of the records, it is known that people put various Chos o n period and excavated ones with burial accessories with the dead and clothed the shrouds in current literature and the ones which dead in ceremonial costumes with the considera­ are in use. tion to help the deceased go on living in the First, we will look into the records on other wo라 d. We know these facts through shrouds and the history of funeral ceremonies remains and old tombs of the Neolithic Age based on the literature. Then we will come to such as the shell mounds in Yongsudong(龍水 the items and shapes of the traditional shrouds. 洞 )， Woonggi(雄基 )， burial sites in caves(窟葬 ) The items will be based on the representative in Bonguiri(鳳儀里 )， Hoeryeonggun and Kydong, books on ceremonies of the Chos o n period, Chunchon, shell mounds in Sido, Ongjingun, when the basic ceremonies were well-organized. Kyonggi Province and Yokjidon)• Yeondaedo, Drawings from the books on ceremonies and Tongyeonggun, Kyongnam Province and San- excavated costumes will be the main material deungpaechong(山登貝塚 )in Sangnodaedo'2). fbr the discussion on the shapes. The records on the funeral ceremonies and Seong, Kihoe. "Yeomseupgo", The Collection of Kwandong University Thesis 8 (Kwandong University, 1981). 5 Yeongsuk, Chon. "A Study on Shrouds", The Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 1(2), (1977). 6 Seongsil, Park and Puja, Ko. A Study on the Remains Excavated from the Dongrae Jungs1 Family Mound. Danguk University Seokjuseon Folk Museum, 1989. 7 Huikyeong, Yu., Mija, Kim and Sunje, Kang. A Report on the Excavation of the Andong Kims' Family Mound. (Onyang F이 k-Museum Research Institute of Culture, 1989). 8 Inu, Jang. 1995. 11A Study on the General Dress and Ornaments among the Excavated Costumes of the mid-Chos o n Period" (Doctoral Dissertation, Dongguk University. 1995). 9 The Book of Changes(周易)Vol.23.繫辭下 ’古之葬者厚衣之以薪葬之中野不封不樹喪期牙數後世 聖人易之以棺槨 The Works of Mencius(孟子)Vol.5.勝文公上 . 10 The prehistoric age ranges from the Paleolithic Age to the early Iron Age. -101 - 28 A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds IJCC shrouds of the Kory o period appear in the mately the same time with Kogury 6. From Koryo section of「Dongjjeon（ 東夷傳 ） 」from these facts it is believed that the beginning of 『Namsa（ 南史 ） 』，『Wise。（ 魏書 ） 』，rSamkukji（ funeral costumes such as shrouds and mourning 三國志 ） 』• It says that lOnce a man and a according to the funeral procedures was in­ woman get married, they prepare clothes fbr fluenced by the idea of the next world with the funeral …13* 12） belief in immortality of soul. It is assumed that At the Paekche section in「YiyeoReon（異域 funeral costumes were socially institutionalized 傳 ） 」of『Juseo（ 周書 ） 』and「Paekchejeon（ 百濟 after they stopped the burial of the living with 傳 ） 」of ^uksa（ 北史 ） j, it says that 'When one's the dead17）. parent or husband dies, one puts on mourning Records about the clothes with the same fbr three years. Other relatives go out of concept as shrouds, along with the word mourning once the funeral is over'서 ） .' Yeomseup appear fbr the first time in the It says at the Silla section in rDongijeonj literature of those days and the period of time of『Suseo（ 隨書 ） 』that4When a man dies, people of Chojong or to wear mourning is also shown make a coffin and carry out Yeomseup and after in the records. From all these, we can guess that funeral they make a tomb. Even when a king, a certain degree of funeral procedures had been parent, or a wife and children die, one wears socially formed since that time. mourning just for one year15V 16 Then funeral ceremonies influenced by Budd­ It says at the Kory o section in rDongijeonj of hism in Unified Silla went on till Kory o. In rSuseoj that 'When a person dies, the coffin is the end of Kory 5, the representative funeral placed in a room until three years has passed. ceremonies of Chos o n started with the adoption Then the funeral is held on an auspicious day. of『Karye（ 家禮 ） 』by Chuhsi. When one's parent or husband dies, one is in According to the foregoing, it can be mourning fbr three years. When it is a brother, assumed that ceremonies regarding death had the mourning period is three months. During been practiced before the first records on them Chojong（ 初終 ） everyone weeps but once the appeared and the basic funeral procedures were funeral is over, they dance to the drum and play carried out in the Three Kingdoms period. The music as a rite of seeing dead person ofF?' procedures seem to have been nationally The burial of the living person with the dead institutionalized in the Chos o n period. This is was prohibited under King Dongcheon（ 東川 ） 's also supported by the fact that there are rule（King Dongcheon, 248） in Kogury o * In concrete records on funeral procedures including Silla, the burial of the living was banned and Chojong and costumes fbr Yeomseup（ 殮襲 ） such the regulation on mourning attire was made in as Seup（ 襲 ） ，Soryeom（ 小斂 ） ， and Daeiyeom（ 大 the early sixth century. Paekche organized the 斂 ） in various books on ceremonies of the time.