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7INTER 

7INTERIN+YIV Explore some of our favourite winter places in the city. )NSIDE Updated, comprehensive guide to everything Kyiv has to offer.

N°55 www.inyourpocket.com 2 FOREWORD

Following the government’s decision on 21 November, 2013 to stop European Union integration by rejecting an association agreement, a series of mass protests has swept across Ukraine. 2,000 protesters gathered at Maidan Nezalezhnosti and began to organize themselves. A larger rally took place on 24 November, when 100,000 to 200,000 people gathered on Maidan. The pro-EU demonstrators carrying Ukrainian and EU flags chanted “Ukraine is Europe” and sang the national anthem as they marched toward European Square for the rally. On the night of 30 November 2013 at 4a.m. around 300 students and other protesters who remained were brutally attacked by the Berkut - a special police unit - who were armed with batons, stun gre- nades, and tear gas. They dispersed all protesters from Maidan Nezalezhnosti while suppressing mobile phone communications. By 1p.m.another meeting was gathering, with tens of thousands of Kyiv residents coming out to protest against the violence. On 1 December, about 200,000 came to Independence Square (Maidan Nezalezhnosti) to demonstrate for their rights and freedom. Since then, there have been daily demonstra- tions with the protesters committed to continue as long as needed, until their demands are fulfilled. Many foreigners have been drawn to Kyiv’s pro-European rallies in admiration for the spirited people power that has been on display and capturing world headlines. Most came to witness what many are calling EuroMaidan – in reference to the first demonstration. As this guide goes to print, the protests are still continuing. The Ukrainian people have spoken – they want a change for the better; a message understood and supported all over the world. Now they are looking forward with the hope for better results and actions by both confronting sides. Winter holidays will be long this year, and most of organisa- tions will be closed from 1-8 January, as most Ukrainians will “Happy holidays!” celebrate first New Year’s Eve, then Christmas on 7 January, This postcard was created by Illia Strongovsky, celebrating the date designated by the Ukrainian Orthodox calendar. this year’s Christmas tree on Maidan Nezalezhnosti. Thousands are expected to join the traditional outdoor party Officially, the police attack against peaceful demonstrators on Maidan Nezalezhnosti, which should be especially unforget- in the early hours of 30 November started because table this year if the protests continue. they were told to clear the square to make room for the The In Your Pocket team would like to wish you Z Novym Christmas tree. Rokom (Happy New Year) and Z Rizdvom (Merry Christmas)! All pictures on the right side are taken from open sources.. Europe In Your Pocket It’s now nearly 22 years since we Northern published the first In Your Pocket Ireland Estonia guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in Ireland Latvia Russia which time we have grown to become Lithuania the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. Belarus We now cover more than 75 cities Netherlands Poland across the continent, and we will Germany Ukraine be expanding even further in 2014 Belgium Czech with the publication of a guide to Republic Johannesburg in South Africa: our Austria first guide outside Europe. What‘s Switzerland Slovenia Romania Georgia more, early in 2014 our already Croatia terrific guides will be getting a fresh Italy Bosnia Serbia new look, designed to offer our Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo readers a better experience. The FYR Macedonia roll-out of this new look begins in Albania Greece February. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com FOREWORD 3

A new look for In Your Pocket Never a publisher to rest on our laurels, we have spent the past few months hunkered down in frenzied acti- vity readying a brand new look for In Your Pocket. Yes, courtesy of a crack team of top designers, your favourite city guides Rejecting an association agreement with the EU caused have had a bit of a huge protests around Ukraine makeover; we will be rolling out the new design during the first part of 2014. Many of the changes we have made are a result of the many comments we have had from readers over the past couple of years, sharing their thoughts with us about how the guides can be improved. As such, the new look is a welcome change that brings renewed modernity, freshness and vivacity to our award-winning publications. Look out for the new- -look In Your Pocket soon.

Publisher Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Protesters flock to Maidan Nezalezhnosti. Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080, Ukraine tel. (+380) 44 467 78 20 / (+380) 67 977 44 16 [email protected] Registration No. KB 7467 Printed by Aiva Plus, Kyiv Published 4 times per year, 60,000 copies annually Editorial Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova Research Marina Marchenko Layout & Design Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. Photos Kyiv In Your Pocket Cover photo flickr.com, CCL. Sales & Circulation A view of Maidan from the surrounding hills. General Manager Andrii Cherniavskyi Sales & Circulation Kyiv: Natasha Martisova, +380 67 977 44 16 Lviv: Julia Kaniuka, +380 67 672 44 97 Odesa: Liubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57 Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 2003- 2014. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Maps People on EuroMaidan restraining an attack from the police © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2014 on December 11. © Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2014 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 4 CONTENTS

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Sightseeing Essential Kyiv 35 Contents Museums 36 Jewish sights 39 Arriving & Transport 5 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 41 Arriving in Kyiv, getting to the city, car rental Leisure 45 and public transport Winter activities in the city 8 Basics Shopping 43 Some useful information Shopping mals, fashion and food Culture & Events 11 Lifestyle directory 44 Culture celebrations & Sport events Useful directory for staying in Kyiv Where to stay 15 Business directory 46 A fine selection of places to spend the night Banks, accountants and lawyers Restaurants 23 Kyiv dining scene Maps & Index Index 48 Cafés 32 Street register 47 Nightlife 33 City centre map 49 Bars, Pubs & Clubs City map 50

One of the most beautiful buildings on the Kyiv hills - the State Academy Doll Theatre. It is located right above European Square and features plays for children from famous fairy tales.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 5

By bus By train Meanwhile the new Central Bus Station is under construction The refurbished Central Railway Station (центральний вокзал) next to the newest Teremki metro station, most of interna- has now been joined by a futuristic-looking Southern Railway tional buses arrive at old Kyiv’s Central Bus Station (tsentralnyi Station (південний вокзал), with the platforms located between avtovokzal). The old station sits like a hideous centrepiece on the two. A new waiting lounge up the stairs to the left from Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovs’ka ploscha. A currency the central main hall boasts comfy couches for a 10Hr admis- exchange office (обмін валют) is next to the main exit, and sion fee. Currency exchange (обмін валют) points and ATMs just outside is an ATM (банкомат) that dispenses Ukrainian (банкомат) are in the main halls of each station. Coin-operated hryvnia. If you need to stash your bags, a left-luggage office is pay telephones are scattered throughout the building, while available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00). card-operated ones are mostly outside the central entrance. Getting to town Taxis are always on hand and can take you to Getting to town You’re basically in it already, but short taxi the city centre for approximately 50Hr. Demiivska metro station rides to Khreschatyk Street area cost 50Hr and up. The (blue line) is right near the bus station. Just go round McDonalds’ entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (red line) is to your left building, pass a subway and find the metro entrance to your right. as you exit the central station - look for the green letter M. Central Bus Station H-5, Nauky prosp. 1/2, Demi- Khreschatyk is only three stops east on the red line. Various ivska, tel. (+380) 44 527 99 86. =Open 05:00 - 24:00. trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart from the central station. Those with light bags and fresh legs can head down the main road and turn right at Shevchenko Boulevard , which By plane runs into Khreschatyk. Boryspil State International Airport ŠƅƐƎƏƎƐƒšƎƐƈƑƏLƋƜ  Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl. is where most international flights depart and land. The arrival 1, Vokzalna, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05, www.uz.gov. hall of its largest and newest Terminal D is located on the ground ua/en. =Open 24Hrs. floor. At the exit from the gates, there is an information point, public telephones, Avis Car Rental and the Meeting Point cafe. Currency exchange windows with competitive rates are to the left Car rental of the gates, first aid is to the right. Ticket agents, immigration, Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy and customs officials speak some English, so don’t worry if you the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are haven’t yet mastered Ukrainian or Russian. Customs control has 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads (there is 110 km/h been greatly relaxed in recent years, but it still makes sense to speed limit at Kyiv-Odesa road) and 130 on highways. A zero travel light and pass through the green express line upon arrival. tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine. Terminal B, to the left of terminal D operates local flights to Avis H-4, Yams’ka 72, Lybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 502 20 Lviv, Odesa, Kharkiv, Donetsk, Zaporizhzhia, Simferopol and 10, fax (+380) 44 502 20 14, www.avis.com.ua/en. Also at Dnipropetrovsk. Boryspil’ Airport, tel. (+380) 44 591 70 09, [email protected]. The cheapest option to get to the city centre is to take the Sky ua. =Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bus. The bus stop is to the right of the exit, where the buses Budget H-3, Ivana Lepse 4, Beresteis’ka, tel. (+380) leave roughly every 10-15 minutes. The ride to the main train 44 490 10 88, [email protected], www.budget.ua. Also station costs 40Hr and takes about an hour. You can also at Boryspil airport, tel. (+380) 44 591 69 87; Kyiv Zhuliany pay 25Hr and get off at Kharkivska metro station, which is on airport, tel. (+380) 44 490 10 88. =Open 09:00 - 18:00. the green line. From there the metro will take you to the city centre in 20-25 min. Europcar J-4, Statonavodnytska 29, Druzhby Naro- The other option is a taxi. We highly recommend an official div, tel. (+380) 44 220 35 00 / (+380) 50 310 24 27, KBP Airport Sky Taxi, which is the most reliable with extremely [email protected], www.europcar.ua. = good cars and service. Pick up one of the cars right in front of Hertz Rent a Car Zdolbunivs’ka 7D, Pozniaky, tel. the terminal exit. At the end of your trip the driver will give you (+380) 44 492 32 70, fax (+380) 44 492 32 73, www. a receipt according to the meter. The return trip from the city hertz.ua/en. Rental of cars and minivans. One-way rentals. is almost half as expensive. Also Sky Taxi is a good choice for Chauffeur available. =Open 09:00 - 18:00. trips around the city with a rate 6.5Hr per 1 km. Sixt G-2, Dmytrievs’ka 46, Vokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 Boryspil State International Airport Boryspil, tel. 490 81 58, www.sixt.ua. Service is available within Kyiv (+380) 44 393 43 71, www.kbp.aero. and Ukraine. Cross border rental is not available. Minimal Sky Bus tel. (+380) 95 431 07 17, www.skybus.kiev. rental period - 24hrs. = ua. =Open 24hrs. Sky Taxi, tel. (+380) 44 281 75 58/(+380) 50 268 38 42, kbp.aero. =Open 24hrs. Discovering Ukraine The smaller Kyiv Zhulyani Airport ŠƅƐƎƏƎƐƒŪƈїƂŦƓƋƟƍƈ  is only 8km from centre and handles domestic travel, Wizz Air flights from Europe, and some flight from Moscow and Dubai. The newly constructed Terminal A is beautiful and comfortable. There are several ATMs, a bank with good currency rates, a cafeteria on the ground floor, and free Wi-Fi is available throughout the terminal. Departures/arrivals for domestic flights are operated from the old terminal behind Terminal A. Browse through visittoukraine.com for inspiration when A taxi from Kyiv Zhulyany Airport to the city centre should not cost visiting Ukraine. This is a guide to unique attractions, you more than 70Hr. Trolleybus #9 (1.50Hr) brings you to Tere- picturesque places, the most interesting events and schenkivska street nearby Ploscha Lva Tolstoho metro station business opportunities around Ukraine. Visittoukraine (blue line). Trolleybus #22 goes to Dorohozhychi metro station .com is also a reliable assistant in planning your trip: ac- (green line). Marshrutka #213 (2.50Hr) shuttles passengers to commodation and restaurants, leisure time suitable for Dorohozhychi (green line) and Petrivka (blue line) metro stations. taste and budget. It is a powerful informational community Zhulyany Kyiv Airport E-1, Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 79, to be hip to the latest news. tel. (+380) 44 242 23 08, www.airport.kiev.ua. . kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 6 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Public Transport Ta x i s A plethora of mass transit options are available to get you In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out around Kyiv. However, the existing trolleybuses (electric on any street if you don’t believe us. Metered taxis are rare, so buses), trams (streetcars), buses, metro, microbuses and you’ll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners minivans are not enough to prevent frequent overcrowding. are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure Don’t take the jostling personally, don’t inhale too deeply but to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the do give up your seat to the elderly and mothers with children. impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. Metro The metro is the jewel of the Kyiv transport system. While traf- Express tel. (+380) 44 239 15 15, www.express-taxi.ua. fic snarls vehicles above ground, trains underground deliver Etalon tel. (+380) 44 501 55 01/502 54 54, www. passengers in a more timely and reliable fashion. Thought- etalontaxi.com.ua. provoking Soviet designs inside stations help pass the time tel. (+380) 44 502 08 08/207 37 37, www. while waiting for the next train. Life isn’t perfect, though, and Limousine neither is the metro. Personal space can become alarmingly limuzintaxi.com/eng. tight, especially during rush hour and at night when trains SkyTaxi tel. (+380) 44 281 75 58/(+380) 50 268 run less frequently. Kyivites like to grumble about the recent 38 42, www.kbp.aero. This is an official taxi service by fare hikes, but fees are, in fact, dirt cheap relative to those Boryspil Airport. They offer competitive fares and give 50% in other European cities. Purchase your one way blue token discount for a return trip to the airport. for 2Hr from the expressionless booth attendant or from the automatic dispensers. Proceed to the row of gates, insert your token and wait a second for the red light to turn green Airline tickets so the jaws of death don’t maim you. Monthly passes can be purchased from all token booths and are good from the first Aeroflot G-3, Saksahanskoho 112A, Vokzal’na, tel. of the month. There are three lines in Kyiv - M1 (red line), (+380) 44 241 99 98, www.aeroflot.ru. =Open 09:00 M2 (blue line) and M3 (green line). Thanks to EURO2012 we - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. finally got English schemes and directions on each station as Air Baltic A-3, B.Khmelnytskoho 52, Universytet, well as notices in English inside the carriages. tel. (+380) 44 238 26 49, www.airbaltic.com. =Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Trolleybuses, trams and buses Alitalia A-3, Ivana Franka 34/33, 2nd floor, Univer- These are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and sytet, tel. (+380) 44 492 72 22, www.alitalia.com. babushkas and dedushkas. They won’t get you anywhere in Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday = Ukrainian life. Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses can Austrian Airlines A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 9/2, L’va be purchased for 1.50Hr from street kiosks or from conduc- Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 289 20 32/289 20 33, www. tors and the driver on board. You should immediately validate aua.com.ua. =Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets around British Airways A-3, B.Khmelnytskoho 48B, 6th floor, you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a 40Hr fine Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 585 50 50, www.ba.com. by not one but two roaming inspectors. All tickets are good =Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. for one journey only. KLM A-3, Ivana Franka 34/33, 2nd floor, Zoloti Vo- rota, tel. (+380) 44 490 24 90, www.klm.ua. =Open Microbuses and minivans 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. The privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or route A-3, B.Khmelnytskoho 52, Universytet, Heroi Lufthansa Гер taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along specified routes. tel. (+380) 44 490 38 00, www.lufthansa.com. =Open Many run the same routes as trolleys or buses and use the 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. same numbers. Otherwise, try to read the main stops posted  on the vehicle’s windshield or side window before it speeds Ukraine International Airlines B-3, Lysenka 4, by. Marshrutkas will definitely get you from A to B faster than Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 581 50 50, www.flyuia. other forms of municipal transport, as they are smaller and com. =Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. more manoeuvrable; an important feature on Kyiv’s jammed Syrets roads. Just flag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver Сирець “na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on the stop, please”) when you’ve Dorohozhychy had enough. Fares are paid as you board and currently range Дорогожичі from 2.50 to 3Hr. Lukyanivska Akademmistechko Лукянівська Академмістечко Funicular Nyvky Beresteiska Нивки Берестейська Золоті Воро Since 1905, Kyiv’s funicular has carried passengers be- Shuliavska Zoloti V Tea tween Podil, on the bank of the Dnipro, and the heights of Шулявська Sviatoshyn Universytet Mykhailivs’ka ploscha. It offers not only a means of getting Університет Zhytomyrska Святошин from A to B, but also a rising panoramic view of the Dnipro Житомирська Politekhnichnyi Instytut Vokzalna River and the forested left bank. After perusing the art and Політехнічний інститут Вокзальна souvenirs of Andrew’s Descent (Andriivs’kyi uzviz), you may forego “Andrew’s Ascent” and catch the funicular at Poshtova ploscha metro. You will be delivered just behind the spectacu- lar St. Michael’s Cathedral. Fares are 1.50Hr for adults, and children under seven ride free. Vystavkovyi Tsentr €1 = 10.48Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.34Hr Виставковий центр (29 November 2013 official rates) Teremki Ipodrom Vasylkivska Теремки Іподром Васильківська

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 7

departure datedeparture time number of the carriage (vagon)

number of the train

to/from stations seat/berth number

passenger’s name final price arriving date and time

Buying train tickets Driving in Kyiv For the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of ticket offices (kasy) at the Central (or Southern) Most westerners will find driving Kyiv’s main thorough- terminal of the Kyiv train station. The staff does not speak fares relatively easy. The problems kick in when you drive English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/Russian. It is a good anywhere outside these well-surfaced and signposted idea to get know the train number in advance and write in on routes. The condition of most roads in Ukraine is basically a piece of paper, together with the departure date and time. wretched, especially after the winter thaw. Don’t bother to learn the Ukrainian alphabet, write down the Another problem is road markings, especially the all- destination city name in English as well as your name. You will important centre line, often go missing. In this case you be asked to provide a passport when boarding. Aside from the should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where train station, you can buy your tickets at the Central Ticket Of- the line is. Just make sure that other drivers understand fice on Tarasa Shevchenka bulv., which accepts credit cards. your intentions. No right turn on a red light, unless you Thanks to EURO2012 we finally have English signs almost have a special green arrow next to the red light. everywhere. Visit booking.uz.gov.ua/en/ for train schedule Booklets containing all official rules of the road can be and ticket booking. purchased in Ukrainian and Russian just about anywhere books are sold. Rules in English have been spotted at the Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl. 1, book market near the Petrivka metro station. Vokzalna, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05. =Open 24hrs. The following is a shortlist of unofficial rules of the road: Central Ticket Office G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bulv. - If you’re running late during peak, feel free to drive on 38/40, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05. sidewalks, cut through the park or drive in the opposite =Open 07:00 - 20:00.  lanes against the flow of traffic. - If your Lada overheats, just leave it in the lane where it stalled and come back later after the traffic jam you just caused dies down. iv Dnipra - If you’re driving on the highway and miss your exit, роїв Дніпра pull over into the right lane, turn your hazard lights on and proceed in reverse until you get back to the exit you Minska wanted. Don’t worry about the cars speeding towards Мінська you; they are likely to get out of the way. Obolon - Wearing your seatbelt can be very irritating and can Оболонь even cause injury. To disable that annoying seat belt alarm, try stuffing a small piece of cardboard into the Petrivka buckling mechanism. Петрівка Tarasa Shevchenka In an attempt to eliminate theses and other idiotic behav- Тараса Шевченка iours that have led Ukraine to having one of the world’s Kontraktova Ploscha Контрактова площа Lisova worst road safety ratings, fines were increased in Novem- Poshtova Ploscha Лісова ber 2008 by as much as 10 times. Drivers can now expect Khreschatyk Поштова Площа Chernihivska to pay from 51Hr for minor violations to as much as 3400Hr ота Чернігівська Vorota Хрещатик Maidan Nezalezhnosti Darnytsia for major violations such as drunk driving. New seat belt atralna Майдан Незалежності Дарниця Arsenalna Livoberezhna and helmet laws will be enforced. The days of being able t Арсенальна Лівобережна т Hidropark to bribe your way out of punishment are coming to an end, Palats Sportu Lva Tolstoho Dnipro Гідропарк hopefully. Traffic patrol will be required to use video and Льва Толстого Chervonyi Khutir Палац спорту Дніпро photo surveillance for all traffic stops. Klovska Червоний Хутір Foreign vehicles can stay in Ukraine for no more than two Olympiiska Кловська Boryspilska Pecherska Олімпійська Бориспільська months. Extensions can be obtained via registration with Palats Ukraina Печерська Vyrlytsia the National Auto Inspector (DAI). Палац Україна Druzhby Narodiv Вирлиця Parking is often impossible in the city centre, despite the abil- Lybidska Дружби народів Либідська ity to park on sidewalks. Many parking spaces are marked as Vydubychi Kharkivska Харківська pay zones and require special tickets. These parking passes Видубичі Pozniaky Demiivska Позняки can be purchased from parking attendants (3-10Hr per hour, Деміївська Osokorky each ticket is good for one hour). Failure to display the proper Осокорки Holosiivska Slavutych parking ticket can result in your car being booted. Голосіївська Славутич

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 8 BASICS

Borders Basic data Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at Population: borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian Kyiv 2 845 100 wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! Ukraine: 45 553 000 (1 January 2013). You should expect close inspection of your documents and Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 70%, Russian 20%, belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers Others 10%. need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and can’t Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, embassies in Kyiv (see Directory/Foreign representatives). Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%. Drinking Territory: 603,700km2. Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol con- Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, tent is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establish- 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km. ments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of horilka Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, (vodka), which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Danube. Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m. samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in some point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, Crime & Safety 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Kyiv is, in fact, a rather safe place, which was proved Kyiv vs. Kiev during EURO2012. However as in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to No, this isn’t a fixture in the Ukrainian football league. disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets These are the Ukrainian and Russian spellings, respec- at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is tively, of the city to which this guidebook is dedicated. always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially Most Westerners will be more used to the Russian ver- from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to sion, but for rather obvious reasons ’Kyiv’ is generally carry at least a copy of their passport with them at all times. preferred in Ukraine. Customs If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of Communism customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres Like an aggressive case of athlete’s foot, communism refuses of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. to go away. While Ukraine’s youth embraces capitalism and Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes, nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessen- news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organiza- tial, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a tion savagely vandalised Kyiv’s sole statue of Vladimir Lenin. customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the Most people, Ukrainians included, think of the Bolshevik value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended Revolution as a Russian revolution - this is inaccurate. up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.) Many top revolutionaries (Leon Trotsky, Gregory Zinoviev, V. A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and Volodarsky) were, in fact, from Ukraine. Also, many prominent taxes if their total value does not exceed €50. However, food Soviet leaders had Ukrainian roots. Leonid Brezhnev was products should not total more than two kilograms, and there born in the Dnipropetrovs’k Oblast. Nikita Khrushchev moved should not be more than one package of the same product. from Russia to Donets’k as a teenager, and ascended the Goods with a total value of less than €2000 may be brought ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv. in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalin’s rule, and is greater than €2000, but less than €10000 they will need memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian national- to be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If ism. The first tragedy is known as Holodomor (starvation), a the value of the goods is greater than €10000, the goods famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as will be subject to clearance in accordance with the import many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence declaration requirements for imported cargo. showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any leadership in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism. international alert and you have documents which prove your Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the as the Great Purge (1936–1938). Stalin was obsessed with State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values the complete annihilation of political rivals including fellow party Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (T.Shevchenka bul’v. 3, members, military commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone tel. (+380) 44 279 53 40/(+380) 44 279 56 47.) else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had be kept throughou t the period of your stay, and must be handed millions more sent to gulags (penal labour/death camps). over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. Ukraine’s share of the victims was disproportionately high. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com BASICS 9

Disabled travellers Kyiv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule. The central train sta- tion does have lifts for the platforms, but the public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests. Electricity Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Rus- sian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electri- cal societies are not easy to find in Kyiv, so bring your own. Language Money The country’s official language is Ukrainian. Since inde- The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the pendence in 1991, it has become much more popular and transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - truly predominant. some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper The following is a list of some of the most common words bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and and phrases a person is likely to need. 500 hryvnias. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu) 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia) finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka) central street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. ATMs have become You’re welcome Прошу (PRO-shu) plentiful in Kyiv, and many hotels and restaurants now take Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu) Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte) There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in Ye s Так (tak) upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. No Ні (ni) Enjoy your meal Смачного (Smach-NO-ho) Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo) Market values I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu) I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu) How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’) McDonald’s Big Mac 18,00Hr €1,78 $2,25 Hospital Лікарня (li-KAR-nia) Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr €0,32 $0,40 Ambulance Швидка (shvyd-KA) Snickers bar 6,00Hr €0,59 $0,75 Where is…? Де знаходиться...? Litre of vodka 50,00Hr €4,94 $6,26 Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 5,00Hr €0,49 $0,62 (de zna-KHO-dytsia) 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr €1,33 $1,69 Right, left Право, ліво (PRA-vo, LI-vo) Public transport ticket 1,25Hr €0,12 $0,16 Do you speak English? Ви розмовляєте англійською? 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,50Hr €1,04 $1,31 (Vy roz-mov-LYA-yete an-GLIY-s’koyu) Official exchange rates (as of August 29): Days of the week €1 – 10.90Hr US$1 – 7.99Hr £1 – 13.00Hr Monday Понеділок (pone-DI-lok) Current exchange rates are available at Tu e s d a y Вівторок (viv-TO-rok) kyiv.inyourpocket.com Wednesday Середа (sere-DA) Thursday Четвер (chet-VER) Friday П’ятниця (PYAT-nytsia) Smoking Saturday Субота (su-BO-ta) From December 16, 2012 smoking is prohibited in all public Sunday Неділя (ne-DI-lia) places. The new law sets a total ban on smoking in restaurants, Numbers bars, clubs and cafes (except open terraces), cultural, medical, educational and sport institutions (including playgrounds and 1 один (o-DYN) 7 сім (sim) stadiums), public transport (including stops), underpasses 2 два (dva) 8 вісім (VI-sim) (subways), and inside apartment buildings (including stairs and 3 три (try) 9 дев’ять (DE-vyat’) lifts). All other premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels, 4 чотири (cho-TY-ry) 10 десять (DE-syat’) airports, railway terminals) should have designated smoking 5 (pyat’) 100 (sto) areas equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also sets fines п’ять сто from 51–10,000Hr for anyone breaking the law. 6 шість (shist’) 1000 тисяча (TY-sya-cha) kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 10 BASICS

Mail & Phones Tipping Kyiv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their Post bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, Maid- Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 230 08 38, www. so read the fine print or ask. ukrposhta.com. Kyiv’s main post office can’t be missed. The Poshtamt (поштамт) is on a corner of Maidan Visas Nezalezhnosti opposite the tall monument. A myriad of windows as well as colourful pictures of city landmarks Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, await in the main hall straight ahead. The less intimidating Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia, hall to the right offers a wide selection of postcards and Mongolia, the U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the hosts a 24-hour Internet café upstairs. =Open 08:00 - Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turk- 21:00. Sun 09:00 - 19:00. menistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travel- Express mail ling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices DHL Vasyl’kivs’ka 1, Lybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. 490 26 00/258 25 00/258 17 66, www.dhl.com. Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain ua. Express-centres: Business-centre “Kyiv-Donbass” days of the week, so call ahead. Pushkins’ka 42/4, 1st floor M L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) Tr a v e l t o Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the 44 490 26 00; Travel Company “SAM” Ivana Franka 40 exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must B, M Universytet tel. (+380) 44 238 69 85/238 69 51; obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration =Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid Federal Express Kikvidze 44, Druzhby Narodiv, in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional tel. (+380) 44 495 20 20, fax (+380) 44 495 20 information, call (+380) 44 286 45 04. 39, www.fedex.com. =Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Tr a v e l t o Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, An- Sat, Sun. dorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply TNT Moskovs’kyi prosp. 28A, Petrivka, tel. for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private (+380) 44 207 07 70, fax (+380) 44 207 07 80, visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, www.tnt.com. =Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue 16:00. Closed Sun. state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase UPS H-4, Mechnykova 20, Klovs’ka, tel. (+380) national medical insurance, and must register their passports 44 280 00 00, fax (+380) 44 280 10 19, www.ups. with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are com. =Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380) 44 537 52 03. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Internet cafés Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, Maid- visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 230 08 51. Open = airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa. Vault 13 Computer Club G-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21. 19, L’va Tolstoho. Internet 09:00 - 23:00 3Hr/h, Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., 23:00 - 09:00 2Hr/h, Fri, Sat 3 Hr/h. Consultation 12Hr/h. Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American Printing, scanning. 60 PCs, intranet. =Open 24hrs. countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call Using a telephone (+380) 44 234 00 40. Fixed line telephone Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number - last Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel, 7 digits of the telephone numbers in our guide forego Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may by 44 - Kyiv city code. If the number is forego by other enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are al- numbers (i.e. 67, 97, 98, 50, 95 etc.) dial 0 and then full lowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must 9 digits number. To make a long-distance telephone apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city more information call the following embassies: Polish (+380) code and number. To call Kyiv from another town, dial 44 284 00 40, Hungarian (+380) 44 238 63 81, Slovakian (+380) 44 234 06 06. 0, wait for the tone, dial Kyiv’s city code (44) and then For a complete listing of embassy locations and phone num- the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait bers see kyiv.inyourpocket.com. In many cases, the consular for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country code, city section is responsible for issuing visas and is located apart code and number itself. from the embassy - save yourself time and confusion by Roaming calling before you go. To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine use +380 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code. The Kyiv telephone code is +380 44

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com CULTURE & EVENTS 11

What’s on Ukrainian Open 2013 18-21 December 2013 Palace of Sports A Ukrainian sport sen- sation! This is a first time that Ukraine hosts this international skat- ing competition. Skat- ers from over 20 coun- tries will take part in Armin Only Intense this event. The special 28 December 2013 guest of the last day’s International Exhibition Centre, 21:00 final performance will be the Ukrainian band “Boom Box”. Armin van Buuren is returning to Kyiv to perform his lengthy show bringing the same experiences and moments that have The programme: brought millions of people together on all continents. Twelve 18 December, 16:00: Competition day thousand visitors in Kyiv will live a musical journey performed Pairs – short programme by the Nr.1 DJ in the world. Kyiv also will be the first city he Women – short programme visits after the Dutch premiere, which will be part of the world Ice dancing – short dance tour “Armin Only Intense 2013-2014”. 19 December, 14:00: Competition day =Tickets 450 - 800Hr. Men – short programme Pairs – free skate Ice dancing – free skate 20 December, 14:00: Competition day Women – free skate Men – free skate 21 December, 17:00: Final Show Awards ceremony and gala concert. =Tickets 30-400, 80-1200 for the final show

Sarah Brightman. Dreamchaser 14 February 2014 Circus Africa Ukraine Palace, 19:00 27 December 2013 - 05 January 2014 Sarah Brightman’s soprano voice has sold millions of records Palace of Sport and has been heard in arenas, cathedrals, and Olympic The French circus Fenix presents their new programme Circus stadiums around the world. She is scheduled to perform at Africa at the Palace of Sport. The stage will be the main area Ukraine Palace in Kyiv on Valentine’s Day. We wish you a most for a spectacular show with acrobats from Ethiopia, Tanza- romantic night with this brilliant voice. nia, Egypt, Australia and South Africa. All performances will =Tickets 590 - 5990Hr. accompanied by the African orchestra, playing incendiary national melodies; allowing one to feel the breath of the Black Continent. This is a really great way to spend time Depeche Mode with your family. The Delta Machine Tour =Tickets 100 - 650Hr. Show starts at 12:00, 15:30, 19:00. 26 February 2014 International Exhibition Centre, 18:00 Originally a product of Britain’s new romantic movement, Depeche Mode went on to become the quintessential electro-pop bands of the 1980s. Slightly over 6 months after their fantastic performance last June at Olimpiysky Stadium, Depeche Mode returns to Kyiv to perform another concert on their Delta Machine Tour. The concert in IEC will be identical to the great one they previously performed at the stadium. =Tickets 690 - 1490Hr.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 12 CULTURE & EVENTS

and books on and art, plus workshops and book readings by authors. There will be great fun in the Art Arsenal and winter open-air games. There will be various musical performances, Christmas sweets, and more. Then on December 19, St Nicholas will be come and visit the children which will surely be a memorable experience. =Tickets 50Hr. Art Galleries & Exhibition Halls Brucie Collections G-2, Artema 55B, Luk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 353 12 34/(+380) 44 205 42 64, www. bruciecollections.com. Gallery 36 C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 36, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 278 29 85, www.gallery36.org. ua. =Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Sukhishvili National Georgian Ballet Gallery RA A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 32 (in the yard), 07-08 March 2014 Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 36 19/(+380) 44 Ukraine Palace, 19:00 235 36 21, ragallery.net/en/news. =Open 12:00 - 19:00, Three generations of the Sukhishvili family have dedicated Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. their lives to the Georgian National Ballet. It is now represent- C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 16, Maidan Nezalezh- ed by Nino and Iliko Sukhishvili Jr., The Georgian National Ballet Gapchinska nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 44 49, www.gapart.com. has seventy dancers and a small orchestra. This Georgian Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. dancing reflects the emotionally daring spirit of the Georgian = nation, and its invincible vitality with touches of romanticism. Jakob Grether Art Centre E-2, Vadyma Hetmana =Tickets 150 - 1250Hr. 6, Bilshovyk Shopping Mall, block A, 3-7 floor, Shuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 60, www.greter- art.com. Admission is free. =Open 11:00 - 21:00. Karas Gallery C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 22A, Kontrak- tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 238 65 31, www.karas- gallery.com. =Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. M17 H-5, Gor’koho 102-104, Palats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 596 20 30, m17.com.ua/en. =Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Maysternya B-2, Artema 1-5, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 272 05 47, fax (+380) 44 292 18 41, www. posterua.com/. =Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Mystets A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 12, L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 234 40 06. Admission is Free. =Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Soviart C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 22A, Kontraktova Plos- Titanic Exhibition cha, tel. (+380) 44 425 22 19, fax (+380) 44 425 10 79, Until 16 March 2014 www.soviart.com.ua=Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. NSC Olimpiysky Tryptych C-3, Desiatynna 13, Poshtova Ploscha, This sensational exhibition has been already visited by hun- tel. (+380) 44 279 09 49, www.triptych-art.com. dreds of thousands of visitors. Now the residents and guests Contemporary decorative art. =Open 11:00 - 19:00, Mon, of Kyiv will also be able to see fragments of the legendary Sun 11:00 - 18:00. liner, whose history, though more than one hundred years after the actual event, continues to fascinate and excite millions of Tsekh Gallery M-6, Frunze 69, Tarasa Shevchenka, people worldwide. This is a unique chance to go back in time tel. (+380) 95 245 78 81/(+380) 44 591 13 69, www. and experience the drama of those events. The exhibition zeh.com.ua. . =Open 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. presents real relics from the Titanic and you can get to know some the technical details of the ship. But more importantly you can feel the unique atmosphere of bright dreams, ambitious undertakings, and the shiny luxuries that are part of her history. =Tickets 130 - 150Hr. Stay in touch with Christmas Arsenal what’s on in Kyiv 18-29 December 2013 Art Arsenal at our Facebook page At this largest of all Christmas fairs in Kyiv you will find the best gifts for all winter holidays and celebrations, and have a www.facebook.com wonderful time in this warm festive atmosphere. One feature scheduled is the giving of gifts for children and adults from the /KyivInYourPocket top 100 hand-crafters of Ukraine. There will be children’s books,

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com CULTURE & EVENTS 13

Concert halls Art Exhibitions House of Organ and Chamber Music H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 77, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 528 31 86, www.organhall.Kyiv.ua. National Musical Academy C-4, Horodets’koho 1-3/11, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 12 42. Palace of Sport A-5, Sportyvna pl. 1, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 246 74 06, www.spalace.com.ua. Stereo Plaza J-5, Kikvidze 17, Druzhby Narodiv, tel. (+380) 44 222 80 40/(+380) 44 222 64 74, stereop- laza.com.ua. The International Centre of Culture and Art ‘Oc- Igor Gubskyi Exhibition tober Palace’ C-4, Instytuts’ka 1, Maidan Nezalezh- Until 9 February 2014 nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 15 82. The Manufactura Art Gallery is located at the recently Ukraine Palace H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 103, Palats opened unique Manufactura Outlet Village, located about Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 247 24 76. 20 km from Kyiv on the Obukhiv Highway. At the 29 No- vember grand opening, an exhibition of the personal works Culture centres of Igor Gubskyi took place. His artistic talent is acclaimed not only in Ukraine, but also abroad. Igor’s works are often British Council D-2, Skovorody 4/12, Kontraktova compared to the works of Velazquez’s. The exhibition rep- Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 490 56 00, www.britishcouncil. resents his works starting from the first years of studying org.ua. =Open 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. at the Kyiv State Institute of Art. Gubskyi’s canvases have French Cultural Centre G-2, O.Honchara 84, Uni- been displayed in the National Art Museum of Ukraine, the versytet, tel. (+380) 44 482 06 72/(+380) 44 482 23 State Tretyakov Gallery (Moscow, Russia). Many of the 71, www.ifu.com.ua. =Open 15:00 - 18:00. Tue, Thu paintings belong to private collections, and to museums 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00; Sat. 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. in Sweden, Canada, and Chicago and New York in the USA. Hodosiivka Vallage, Goethe Institute D-2 Volos’ka 12/4, Kontraktova Manufactura Art Gallery Obukhiv Highway 2, tel. (+380) 50 424 28 88 / ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 496 97 85, www.goethe.de/kiew. (+380) 44 200 97 47, www.manufactura-art.com. =Open 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italian Culture Institute B-2, Yaroslaviv Val 32B, The other season or fairy tale Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 270 62 23, fax (+380) 44 279 38 42, www.iicKyiv.esteri.it. =Open 09:00 - 13:00, 20 December 2013 - 23 February 2014 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. An exhibition featuring famous Ukrainian artists Anastasia Kyiv Islamic Social Cultural Centre E-1, Dehtyarivs’ka Kraineva and Anastasia Grigoryeva is going to open at the J. Greter Art Centre on 20 December. Their works are bright 25A, Luk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 99 00/(+380) 44 490 99 96, www.arraid.org. and lively, depicting popular heroes, fairy-tale characters, landscapes and myths. Their emotional and lyrical vision Polish Institute A-3, B. Khmel’nytskoho 29/2, #17, of reality and love of colour are the links that binds these Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 288 03 04, www.polinst. artists. The artist’s works have found their places in private Kyiv.ua. =Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. collections in Russia, Germany, Georgia, Belarus, Lithuania, The Center of Spanish Language and Culture H-1 Czech Republic, Slovakia, Romania, Norway and Ukraine. Obolonska 7, Tarasa Shevchenka, tel. (+380) 44 501 Dive into the world of colour and marvellous painting. 75 77/(+380) 44 239 24 18, www.spanish.com.ua. Jakob Grether Art Centre E-2, Vadyma Het- Ukraine-Japan Centre F-2, Peremohy prosp. 37, mana 6, Bilshovyk Shopping Mall, block A, 3-7 floor, Politekhnichnyi Instytut, tel. (+380) 44 406 81 66, Shuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 60, www. www.uajc.com.ua. =Open 11:00 - 19:00. greter-art.com. Admission is free. =Open 11:00 - 21:00. Cinemas Nikas Safronov Exhibition Butterfly Deluxe H-4, Gor’koho 50, Olimpiyska, tel. Until 16 February 2014 (+380) 44 206 13 20. = Tickets 15 - 90Hr. Kyiv History Museum Kinopalats C-4, Instytuts’ka 1, Maidan Nezalezh- Nikas Safronov is one of the most prominent contemporary nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 72 23, www.kinopalace.net. Russian artists working equally well in many genres. His = Tickets 15 - 90Hr. artworks are familiar to most viewers from reproductions printed in magazines. This is because the bulk of the artist’s Kyiv A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 19, L’va Tolstoho, paintings are in private collections in Russia and abroad, as tel. (+380) 44 234 73 81, www.Kyivkino.com.ua. well as museums in Western Europe and the US. Western = Tickets 20 - 60Hr. collectors have bought more than 800 of his paintings. Over Multiplex O-5, Moskovs’kyi prosp. 34B, BlockBaster 120 works of the artists’ portraits, landscapes and surreal Shopping Mall, Petrivka, tel. (+380) 44 498 48 32, narrative compositions will be on display to the public. 30 www.multiplex.ua. = Tickets 20 - 100Hr. of these have been gathered from private collections and Odesa Kino G-2, Peremohy prosp. 3, Universytet, will be on display to the public for the first time. tel. (+380) 44 496 15 11, www.kinoodessa.com. Kyiv History Museum B-4, B.Khmelnytskoho 7, = Tickets 17 - 50Hr. Teatralna, tel. (+380) 44 520 28 26. =Open Ukraina C-4, Horodets’koho 5, Khreschatyk, tel. 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00, Fri-Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (+380) 44 279 63 01, www.kino-ukraina.com.ua. Tickets 60Hr. = Tickets 15 - 56Hr. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 14 CULTURE & EVENTS

Opera & Ballet

December 2013 12 G.Puccini Madama Butterfly Opera, in Italian 20 M.Lysenko Natalka Poltavka Opera 14 P.Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker Ballet 21 F. Chopin Chopeniana Ballet 15 P.Tchaikovsky Eugene Onegin Opera

Le Spectre De La 16 G.Bizet- Carmen-Suite Ballet C. Weber Rose Ballet R.Shchedrin 22 H.Lovenskjold La Sylphide Ballet M.Rymskiy- Korsakov Sheherazade Ballet G.Bizet- 24 R.Shchedrin Carmen-Suite Ballet 17 G.Verdi La Traviatta Opera, in Italian M.Rymskiy- 18 S.Prokofiev Romeo et Juliette Ballet Korsakov Sheherazade Ballet 19 G.Verdi Aida Opera, in Italian 26 New Year Eve Gala Concert 21 Master & Margarita Ballet Opera, in 27 G.Verdi La Traviatta Italian 22 G.Verdi Macbeth Opera, in Italian 23 A.Khachaturian Spartak Ballet 28- P.Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker Ballet 31 24 M.Mussorgskiy Boris Godunov Opera January 2014 25 G.Verdi Rigoletto Opera, in Italian M.Rymskiy- 26 M.Theodarakis Zorba The Greek Ballet 2 Korsakov The Tale of Tsar Saltan 28 P.Tchaikovsky Swan Lake Ballet 3 G.Bizet Carmen Opera, in Italian 29 G.Verdi Masked Ball Opera, in Italian Snow White And 4 B.Pavlovskiy The Seven Dwarfs Ballet 30 A.Glazunov Raimonda Ballet 5 A.Adan Giselle Ballet 31 G.Verdi Don Carlos Opera, in Italian 8 G.Rossini The Barber of Seville Opera Taras Shevchenko National Opera of Ukraine 9 P.Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker (Kyiv Youth Ballet) A-4, Volodymyrs’ka 50, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 71 65, www.opera.com.ua. =Tickets 10-200Hr. 10 Bass Trio Concert Performances start at 19:00.

The building of the National Opera & Ballet of Ukraine was established in 1867, but in 1896 after the performance of Eugene Onegin by Peter Tchaikovsky, a fire erupted and the building was destroyed. The present building was designed in the so called Viennese Modern style and was built in 1901.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com WHERE TO STAY 15

Hyatt Regency Kyiv C-3, A.Tarasovoi 5A, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, fax (+380) 44 581 12 35, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency Cream of the Crop Kyiv is centrally located in the historical centre on Sofiivs’ka Fairmont Grand Hotel Kyiv D-3, Naberezhno-Khresh- Square. The hotel is the ideal address for business and chatytska 1, Poshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 322 leisure travellers alike. With high-tech communications and 88 88, fax (+380) 44 322 88 99, [email protected], ergonomic working areas, 234 spacious deluxe rooms and www.fairmont.com/kyiv. A great Luxury hotel right on 25 suites provide the perfect setting for the discerning global the river Dnipro. Seldom have we been more impressed by business traveller. Luxurious bathrooms with underfloor heat- a hotel’s elegance. Marble floors, stained glass windows, ing, deep-soaking baths and exceptional rain showers create lovely chandeliers, and a stunning classic design and it goes a unique in-room experience. State-of-the-art meeting and on. Each of the 258 rooms is fully equipped and beautifully banquet facilities with 1,000 square meters of function space designed with large comfy beds. There are also Presidential accommodate all needs, from small meetings to large-scale and Royal Suites for all you presidents, kings and queens. events. Luxurious Spa Natural with its advanced treatments, There are discounted rates for weekends and package offers a gym with the latest equipment, a 25-meter swimming pool, are available. The entire staff is friendly and great in English. restaurants and bars make Hyatt Regency Kyiv one of the Their restaurant The Strand Grill is open to the public daily best hotels in Kyiv. =234 rooms (standard €328 - 585, de- from 06:30-midnight. Breakfast is not included and costs 35€. luxe €353 - 610, club €378 - 635, regency suite €578 - 835). =258 rooms (Rates €319 - 2000).#I&' #&$>' )99999 J)99999 Intercontinental C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 2A, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 219 19 19, Holiday Inn Kiev H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 100, www.intercontinental.com/kiev. Intercontinental has Olimpiiska, tel. (+380) 44 363 30 00, fax (+380) been setting the bar in the hotel industry for decades, and 44 363 30 03, [email protected], www.holidayinn. its expansion into the Kyiv market represents a much needed com/Kiev. Holiday Inn has found its place in our city on a infusion of competition in the “cream of the crop” end of the quiet lane locked between two business streets. It features accommodation spectrum. Its location near Mykhailivs’ka all your Holiday Inn favourites including the usual agreeable square offers tourists and business travellers access to the 208 rooms. Facilities include business centre, conference best Kyiv has to offer. Rooms range from stylish to elegant and room, restaurant and bar with terrace, fitness area on 11th come equipped with all imaginable amenities. Notable hotel floor with panoramic view. Wi-Fi is free all over the hotel. In the facilities and services include a fitness centre, swimming best of HI traditions, the hotel is perfect for business travel- pool, spa, business centre and travel services. Conference lers and you know exactly what you are going to get for your facilities can accommodate a whopping 800 participants, and money. =208 rooms (180 Standards €150, 26 Executives the stunning ball room seats 400. Located on the 11th floor, €175, 2 Suites €225).#' )9999 the b-Hush Rooftop Caviar Bar is open for dinner and offers

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 16 WHERE TO STAY

Radisson BLU Kyiv Podil D-2, Bratska 17-19, Kontrak- Symbol key tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 393 13 73, info.podil.kiev@ radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.ru/hotel-kyiv-podil. A #Air-conditioning Guarded parking latest entry in Podil historical district for this famous hotel chain. >Animal friendly $Internet Rooms are ranged traditionally for Radisson BLU worldwide from standards to suites, meanwhile if you’re a President, the &Child friendly Nearest metro station Presidential Suite awaits for you for about 10000Hr. There is a Conference facilities Non-smoking rooms gym and convenient underground parking. The Starokyivsky Restaurant & Lounge has gorgeous marble furnishing and a Credit cards accepted Restaurant classic, elegant interior, creating an ideal dining atmosphere. The City centre location Sauna chef treats guests to delicious international and Ukrainian main courses, pastries and deluxe desserts. The wine list has an wide Fitness centre Swimming pool selection of international and local wines. There is seating for 70 'Facilities for the disabled ) Wi-Fi internet access and an average meal will run around 400Hr. There is a business lunch weekdays from 12:00-16:00 from 97Hr. The Cafe 17 is a nice bright coffee shop with a street entrance. There are sand- an impressive selection of exclusive dishes and an unforget- wiches, salads, and pastries all at reasonable prices. =164 table view of the city centre. Brimming with tasty Italian and rooms (138 standards, 2 for disables, 15 business rooms, 5 Mediterranean cuisine, Olivera is your laidback dining option, suites, 1 presidential).#K )9999 and Comme Il Faut is an elegant French restaurant offering the finest in Parisian inspired cuisine. =273 rooms (standard €350 - 388, deluxe €380 - 488, €389 - 535, club executive Upmarket €640 - 678, suite €840 - 1038).99999 11 Mirrors Design Hotel A-3, Bohdana Khmelnyts- koho 34A, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 581 11 11, Opera A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53, Universytet, tel./ [email protected], www.11mirrors-hotel.com. fax (+380) 44 581 70 70, reservations@opera-hotel. Either we did not noticed it before or it was covered with a green com, www.opera-hotel.com. The Opera Hotel is a luxury fence, but the building of this design hotel popped-up suddenly boutique hotel which offers something unique for its guests. in the very heart of the city centre, enclosed by embassies, Staying in the Opera Hotel, you will not only enjoy the exquisite theatres, and churches. The rooms are big in a modern but interior design, feast on fabulous food and enjoy a glass of incredibly spacious style with bathrooms designed as transpar- exquisite wine near a fireplace, but you will also feel right ent glass cubes (highly recommended for couples are staying at home, although home may be oceans away. The Opera there!). The windows overlook one of our favourite streets - Hotel is located just 15 minutes from downtown Kyiv and Bohdana Khmelnytskoho. The amenities include the usual list Khreschatyk Street allowing one to be in touch with Kyiv’s found in upmarket hotels. 49 rooms (19 doubles €275, 10 business and social life, but away from the busy downtown = junior suites €300, 20 suites €335). area. Business club, lobby lounge, conference rooms and spa #K' ) and fitness club are all a part of the luxury facilities offered ALFAVITO H-4, Predslavyns’ka 35D, Palats Ukraina, to guests. =136 rooms (classic 1900 - 2800Hr, standard tel. (+380) 44 220 45 75, fax (+380) 44 220 45 76, info@ 2200 - 3400Hr, superior 2800 - 4000Hr, junior suite 4600 alfavito.com.ua, www.alfavito.com.ua. This lovely 4-star - 5800Hr, executive suite 7000 - 8200Hr).#"$' hotel has a classic/modern design and is located just a 2 minute  99999 walk from Palace Ukraina. All 251 rooms are ideal for business people: telephone, free Wi-Fi Internet access, safe, minibar, Premier Palace A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v./Pushkins’ka interactive TV, air conditioning system. There are rooms for al- 5-7/29, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 244 12 01/ lergy sufferers and the disabled, and all staff have an excellent (+380) 44 244 12 11, fax (+380) 44 279 87 72, info@ command of English. Rooms run from 107€ per night. There are premier-palace.com, www.premier-palace.com. Kyi v’s several seminar and conference rooms and a complete range of first five-star hotel lives up to its name and more. Each room business services are available. A unique feature is their “Café has a fully-interactive TV and internet system, along with a Forte” which is not just a spacious and comfortable lounge, but telephone and SOS alarm in the bathroom. The fabulous fit- an art gallery as well. Exhibits are constantly changing and the ness centre with a gorgeous pool is opened to guests from beautiful works may be purchased. There is also a bar where 07:00 to 23:00. 289 rooms (142 classic €325 - 395, 115 = meals can be taken as well as the very elegant dining room. The premier €425, 29 suite €495 - 625, 3 apartment €1200 - menu is in English and the cuisine is European and Ukrainian 3500). #"$' )99999 with an average meal costing 400Hr. Restaurant is open 11:00- Radisson BLU B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 22, Zoloti Vorota, tel. 23:00. =251 rooms (8 singles, 215 doubles, 19 superiors, 2 (+380) 44 492 22 00, fax (+380) 44 492 22 10, reserva- business, 4 deluxe, 2 suites, 1 apartment, additional bed €30 , [email protected], www.radissonblu.com.ua/ breakfast €20).#' )9999 hotel-kiev. Radisson hotels worldwide have a reputation for K-3, Venetian Island 1 (near the excellence and Kyiv’s is no exception. The Radisson BLU Kyiv of- Bakkara Art-hotel Metro Bridge), Hydropark, tel. (+380) 44 369 31 31, fers its guests wireless access to the Internet around the clock, www.bakkara-hotel.com.ua. Bakkara Art-hotel is definitely and for the technologically challenged the IT-savvy concierge a fine addition to Kyiv hotel scene. The hotel offers charm and is a classy touch. The spacious rooms, furnished in three dif- class with prices that make sense. The rooms are fashionably ferent styles, include plenty of satellite TV channels, in-house decorated and comfortable. Room amenities include air condi- movies, coffee/teamaker, a trouser press, safe and hairdryer. tioning, electronic security system, TV, free Wi-Fi, personal safe, Business class rooms and suites are more spacious and include hairdryer, mini-bar, telephone with direct international access a few extra perks like buffet breakfast and daily newspapers. and striking views of the Dnipro River and picturesque right The hotel is well geared-up for events, with its state-of-the bank. Every morning from 7:00 until 11:00 am everyone may art conference facilities available for meetings or banquets. enjoy buffet breakfast in the restaurant. The conference room 255 rooms (183 standard €202 - 293, 49 business class = can accommodate up to 80 persons and comes fully equipped. €252 - 343, junior Suite €303 - 394, suite €626, 1 Presidental 200 rooms (standard 790Hr, classic 930 - 1030Hr, deluxe €1111). Breakfast is not included in the price of a standard room. = 1500 - 1650Hr, luxe 2500 - 2800Hr).# ) #&$' )9999 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com WHERE TO STAY 17

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 18 WHERE TO STAY

Boutique Hotel Riviera D-3, I-1, Sahaidachnoho 15, Poshtova ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 581 28 28, fax (+380) 44 581 38 38, [email protected], www. rivierahotel.com.ua. Riviera hotel is located in the historical part of Kyiv - in Podil. Such a suitable location makes it easy to reach main business and sightseeing areas of the city such as Andriivs’kyi uzviz, Mykhailivs’ka and Sofiivs’ka squares and Khreschatyk street. Through the windows of your room you can enjoy the view of the Dnipro River and historical Podil. Each room includes controlled air-conditioning. Home-like cosiness, high-quality service and an individual approach to each guest makes Riviera Hotel attractive to business travellers and tour- ists alike. =79 rooms (comfort €220, business €240, junior suite €290, executive suite €350, deluxe €420, presidental suite €1000).#$')9999 Cosmopolite(9DG\PD+HW©PDQDOHWWHUV$Ş© Shuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 205 35 20, fax (+380) 44 205 35 21, [email protected], www. cosmopolite-kiev.com. The new business hotel is built in Constructivism style, which suites to the surrounding area and Bil’shovyk Shopping Mall nearby. But except of bright avant-garde façade, the hotel has truly impressive interior. Each of the hotel’s five floors is designed in a style dedicated to one of the prominent artists of Constructivism and holds a small museum room of each painter. The hotel’s location isn’t central, however staying there you’ll be within easy access to all major business and leisure facilities, with a 10 minutes ride by Peremohy prosp. to Khreschatyk. Each room is equipped with working area, safe, mini-bar, coffee and tea. For business visitors there is a business centre and business areas on each floor. =160 rooms (143 Standard 1761Hr, 7 Junior suite 2282Hr, 10 Suite 2699Hr).#IK' ) Dnipro C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 09 89, fax (+380) 44 254 67 65, [email protected], www.dniprohotel.ua/en. One of the best four star hotels in Ukraine. This 12-storey hotel was built in 1964 in the centre of the business, political and cultural heart of the city. The majority of the rooms are recently renovated; some of the rooms have a spectacular view of the Dnipro river. All rooms have air-conditioning, inter- net, satellite TV and individually controlled central heating. =186 rooms (87 singles €73 - 99, 51 doubles €89 - 155, 7 junior suites €160 - 180, 41 suites €165 - 240).#" $ )9999 ibis Kiev Shevchenko Boulevard G-2, T. Shevchenka bul’v. 25, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 591 22 22, fax (+380) 44 591 22 33, [email protected], www. ibishotel.com. This beautiful new hotel is one of the best we have seen come along in awhile. The décor is a unique quasi art-deco-modern design; simple, yet elegant. A decently priced restaurant is open from 12:00-23:00 and there is a 24hrs bar. All rooms are fully equipped and range from 790Hr for a double to 2850Hr for a suite with a conference area, bar, and king sized bedroom. The staff is very helpful and English speaking. Breakfast 120Hr. =212 rooms (113 doubles 790 - 1090Hr, 72 Twin 790 - 1090Hr, 1 Suite 2850Hr, 5 rooms for disable 790 - 1090Hr, 21 Family Room 1170 - 1400Hr). #I>')999 Lybid G-2, Peremohy pl. 1, Vokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 236 60 23/(+380) 44 236 95 72, fax (+380) 44 236 63 36, [email protected], www.hotel- lybid.com.ua. Named after the legendary sister of Kyiv’s founders, the Lybid is situated in the business heart of Kyiv. All rooms are bright and have pleasant wooden furniture plus air-conditioning, satellite TV, refrigerator and hairdryer. Guests in singles can stretch out and relax on a king-size bed. There are a lot of restaurants and stores in the area, as well as the circus and Ukraina shopping mall. The central

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com WHERE TO STAY 19

train station and the downtown area are within easy reach by Ramada Encore Kiev Stolychne Shose 103, Vydu- public transport. =273 rooms (159 singles 930 - 1070Hr, 82 bychi, tel. (+380) 44 205 15 15, fax (+380) 44 205 15 doubles 930 - 1070Hr, 3 Junior suite 1217 - 1467Hr, 27 Suite 16, [email protected], www.ramadaencorekiev. 1627 - 1877Hr, 1 Business suite 2144 - 2394Hr, 1 Exclusive com/eng/. Though Ramada Encore is located a bit far from suite 2488 - 2739Hr).#&$' )999 the city centre, it takes only about 20 minutes to get to the city centre by a shuttle bus (stops at Yevropeyska Square), Park Hotel Golosievo Holosiivskyi prosp. 87, Ho- which is free and goes according to schedule. Ramada Encore losiivska, tel. (+380) 44 219 11 55, fax (+380) 44 is a completely new 20-story building, housing hotel rooms 219 11 41, [email protected], www. and long stay apartments. All of them are done up in bright hotelgolosievo.com.ua. Recently built in one of the most colours with a modern style. The rooms are equipped with beautiful Kyiv parks, Park Hotel Golosievo is recommended wooden floors, large windows and fabulous bathrooms. The for business travellers. The hotel is located in 5 min walk from conference centre (1,200 sq.m) is located on the 1st and 2nd Holosiivska metro station and it takes less than 15 minutes to floors. The hotel’s Lobby bar and La Moda Italian restaurant reach the city centre. All room are decorated in warm colours with a 180 people capacity are located on the 1st floor, while and equipped with all facilities expected in 4-stars hotel. The two gyms are located on 3rd and 18th floors. Breakfast is Beer Garden restaurant with Bavarian cuisine is an excellent not included in the price. addition to the hotel. A children playground outside the hotel =322 rooms (257 standards €99 - 109, 7 superiors €110 - 120, 20 studios €135 - 145, 38 is a nice place for kids. =53 rooms (18 suites 1350 - 1900Hr, apartments €185).#I' )999 25 apartments 2500 - 3800Hr, 10 standard 850 - 1150Hr). #K& ) Rus A-6, Hospytal’na 4, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 256 40 00/(+380) 44 256 40 20, fax (+380) 44 256 40 President Hotel A-6, Hospytal’na 12, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 256 32 56/(+380) 44 256 38 56, fax 05, [email protected], www.hotelrus.kiev. (+380) 44 256 32 53, [email protected], ua/en. For football fans who are allergic to crowds, the rooms presidenthotel.com.ua/en. The President’s surroundings on the upper floors of the Rus are perfect, offering superb are surprisingly tranquil considering its proximity to centre. views of Olympic Stadium. The prices, which vary depending The hotel has 374 bedrooms of varying comfort and size on the number of guests in a room, aren’t cheap, and both (singles, doubles, suites and apartments), a business centre, singles and doubles are a bit small. They are smart and well restaurant, bar, health and beauty complex, underground furnished however. There is also a business centre and three parking, airport transfers and even a chauffeur. This is a conference halls are at your disposal. Prices are cheaper at popular venue for all sorts of events, and its conference suite the weekends, and there are discounts for long stays. =450 has rooms holding as few as 10 or as many as 450 people. rooms (Standard 900 - 1170Hr, Business class 1270Hr, Suite =374 rooms (standard €140 - 160, junior suite €224 - 320, 1700 - 4000Hr).#$ )999 suite €272 - 380, apartment €480 - 700).#"$  )9999 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 20 WHERE TO STAY

Apartment hotels

Greguar Apartments H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 67/7, Senator Apartments Executive Court G-2, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 498 97 90/(+380) 44 Dmytrivska 62/20, Luk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 498 97 91, fax (+380) 44 498 97 91, info@greguar. 220 05 55, fax (+380) 44 220 03 33, executivecourt@ com.ua, www.greguar.com.ua. This apartment hotel senator-apartments.com, www.senator-apartments. located in the very centre of Kyiv business area. All 45 com. Located in a newly constructed building in a quiet executive apartments are cosy and comfortable, equipped neighbourhood on the edge of downtown, the Executive Court with kitchen, Wi-Fi and all amenities expected to be in the property includes all the great amenities as the City Centre hotel. A fine French patisserie on the premises. =45 rooms location. The advantage of this locale is its close proximately (15 singles 130US$, 24 doubles 165US$, 3 junior suite to supermarkets and the Ukraina shopping mall. Long-term 180US$, 3 suite 200 - 220US$). and corporate rates are negotiable. = (classic rooms €115 - 130, standards €125 - 140, studio apartments €145 - 175, Senator Apartments City Center A-3, Pyrohova 6, 1-bedroom apartment €165 - 215).# ) Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 200 77 55, fax (+380) 44 200 77 33, [email protected]. Senator Apartments Maidan C-4, T. Shevchenko ua, www.senator-apartments.com.ua. This serviced prov. 8B, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 200 apartment complex occupies a newly renovated histori- 77 88, fax (+380) 44 200 77 80, maidan@senator-apart- cal building in centre. It includes 27 fully furnished luxury ments.com, www.senator-apartments.com. This hotel apartments of 1-4 rooms. All apartments are designed has a superb location just a step from the main Kyiv square, by a well-known international architect and equipped with despite of all the hustle and bustle of Maidan Nezalezhnosti. everything required for a long stay. Modern kitchen, washer/ Its location on a narrow and quiet old city street guarantees dryer, high-speed Internet access, satellite TV, spa baths all guests calm and cosy stay. The hotel has 7 floors and is and 42’’ plasma TVs are available. The comfort of your stay spread over 3 historical buildings. All rooms, though smaller is supported by a multilingual front desk staff, housekeeping than in other Senator Apartments hotels, provide the high services, 24/7 security, doorman and free on-site parking. standards of the chain. There are hotel-type standard and = Apartments available for rent: 1 room - €115-130, 2 superior rooms, as well as the Senators’ trademark studio and rooms from €235-250, 4 rooms from €470-500. Long-term one-bedroom apartments. The later coming equipped with a and corporate rates are negotiable.27 rooms (standards kitchen. Each room includes central air-conditioning, a 42” TV, €85 - 95, business apartments €135 - 150, studio apart- bathrobe and slippers, and an iron and ironing board. A lovely ments €155 - 195, 1-bedroom apartment €195 - 235). For buffet breakfast cost an extra 10 EUR. Coffee and tea in the a long stay - above 30 days - prices are subjected to be lobby is free. =42 rooms (standards €140 - 165, superiors reduced.#&$ ) €150 - 175, studio apartments €170 - 195, 1-bedroom apart- ments €195 - 250).# )

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com WHERE TO STAY 21

Staro D-1, Kostyantynivs’ka 34B, Kontraktova plos- Khreschatik C-4, Khreschatyk 14, Maidan Nezalezh- cha, tel. (+380) 44 481 33 00, fax (+380) 44 481 33 03, nosti, tel. (+380) 44 596 80 00, fax (+380) 44 596 80 [email protected], www.staro.com.ua. Staro is located in a 01, [email protected], www.khreschatik.kiev. quiet part of Podil district. The exterior of the hotel represents a ua/en. Each room at this cracking place is equipped with kind of Art-nouveau style with 35 spacious and cosy rooms in a telephone, satellite TV, refrigerator and air-conditioning. Given classical style. Each room is equipped with all the amenities of the location, in the heart of the business district, the tranquil- 4 star hotels including free Wi-Fi, safe, a set of mini-perfumes, a lity of the place is remarkable. The Khreschatik boasts two hairdryer and bathrobes. Located out of main business areas conference rooms, a business centre, a currency-exchange Staro is an ideal place for tourists to explore the city. Andrew’s desk, guarded parking and Wi-Fi Internet can be accessed Descent as well as the nearby Kontraktova ploscha metro sta- in the lobby. Weekend rates are a great value. =130 rooms tion is 10 minute walking distance and the Chernobyl museum (singles 850 - 1700Hr, doubles 1500 - 1800Hr, suites 1250 is also nearby. =35 rooms (4 singles €129, 17 doubles €141, - 1900Hr).# )999 7 twins €141, 3 family room €175, 4 junior suites €180, extra bed €35).#IK' )9999 Slavutych Entuziastiv 1, Livoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 561 11 11/(+380) 44 561 11 12, fax (+380) 44 561 Vozdvyzhens’kyi Boutique Hotel C-2, Vozdvyzhens’ka 11 70, slavutych-hotel.com.ua/en. If you want to stay 60, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 99 00, on what is sometimes known as “Venetian Kyiv” (in fact the fax (+380) 44 462 58 43, [email protected], www. man-made Rusanivs’kyi Island) then head to the Slavutych. vozdvyzhensky.com/en/. This is one of the most elegant The hotel’s façade is not, it has to be said, in great shape, and conceptual places in the capital - an ideal choice for busi- although the views from inside are wonderful. The cheaper ness travel and elite relaxation. The hotel’s unique location, rooms are rather austere and more depressing than the in the heart of a protected architectural monument of ancient brightly-coloured refurbished rooms and suites, eight of which Kyiv, adds a special aura. The hotel’s smart façade faces come with air-conditioning. Laundry and dry cleaning are Andriivs’kyi uzviz and the Terrace Restaurant is secluded available. In addition there is a beauty shop, newspaper kiosk by the surrounding green hills that provide a breathtaking and souvenir stands. Breakfast is not included (65Hr). =400 panoramic view. All rooms, including the two deluxe suites rooms (201 singles 329 - 459Hr, 175 doubles 429 - 845Hr, 18 and the two exclusive suites, come with Jacuzzi, “Club” and junior suites 999Hr, 6 suites 1100Hr)."999 “Boudoir”, air-conditioning, mini bar, satellite TV and Internet access. The conference hall accommodates up to 100. There is a smaller hall for private meetings. Other perks include park- Hostels ing, banqueting, rewards programme, tailor-made service for Dream House Hostel & Bar C-2, Andriivskiy Uzviz every client and a special offer for those just married. =26 2D, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 580 21 69/ rooms (singles €140 - 170, doubles €186 - 215, exclusive (+380) 95 703 29 79, [email protected], €300, luxe €315).#$ )9999 www.dream-family.com. This friendly hostel is located on the famous and picturesque street of the artists. Part of a chain the hostel is in a lovely renovated building with beds for 100 +. Mid-range Everything is clean with lots of facilities, the beds and furniture are all real wood. There is a kitchen, eating area, washing E-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, Shuliavska, tel. IQ Hotel machine, Wi-Fi. Prices range from 100Hr per person per night (+380) 44 238 84 05, fax (+380) 44 238 84 06, info@ iqhotel.com.ua, www.iqhotel.com.ua. Located near the Bilshovyk Shopping Mall, this modern 3 star hotel is a much Airport hotel needed addition to the Kyiv hotel scene. The staff was very helpful and spoke fairly good English. There are 34 rooms, Hotel Boryspil, tel. (+380) 44 281 71 05, fax mostly double standard costing just 599Hr per room per (+380) 44 281 79 53, www.kbp.aero. Close to Bo- night - a small breakfast is included. The design is a high tech ryspil’s Terminals B and D, this is the closest you can get “minimalism” - white and bright, with queen size beds and to the airport without actually sleeping in it. Rooms are orthopaedic mattresses. There is a “smart house system” well-sized, and come equipped with telephone and satel- with everything included. It’s adjacent to the shopping mall so lite TV. There is a room for guests with special needs on all your entertainment and shopping needs are just a stone’s the ground floor. =134 rooms (44 singles 260 - 390Hr, throw away. =34 rooms (1 single 499Hr, 31 doubles 599Hr, 49 doubles 420 - 630Hr, 1 apartment 800 - 1275Hr, 2 junior suites 899Hr). #K ) 28 suites 470 - 780Hr, 12 family suites 470 - 900Hr). #&'999 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 22 RESTAURANTSWHERE TO STAY

to 520Hr for a private room for 1-2 with in room bathroom and and the “living room” is quite comfortable with round the clock toilet. The staff is supper nice and speaks fluent English. They internet. Everything is very clean as all wear slippers. Prices show genuine concern for their guests and arrange daily games from 9 Euro per night with many excursions and “pick up“ and activities on premises and outside excursions like bowling services available. = 10-bed dorm €12.#) etc. Their motto is “We don’t just sell beds, we sell emotions - Why not? Chillout Kiev H-3, Gorkoho 22B/35, Lva something to tell your friends about.” =28 rooms.#) Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 63 332 43 06, whynothostel@ Dream Party Hostel A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 47, apt. 17, gmail.com, www.whynothostels.com. The day we first Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 289 36 13, booking@dream- came to this hostel it was greeting its first guests, still being hostel.com, www.dream-family.com. Dream Hostel offers its on small renovation. Now when all works are done it welcomes guests a most unique and friendly atmosphere. To be honest, everyone with 6 rooms each uniquely designed. If you have the hostel owners are friends of our editorial team, however we only a few days in Ukraine, but want to explore the whole were even pickier, in our review of the facilities. After all, believe it country - this hostel is just for you. Stay at Industrial 8 bed or not, Dream Hostel might be considered as the most luxurious dorm to feel yourself somewhere in Donetsk or choose a 4 hostel in Kyiv. Aside from usual, very high standard amenities, your bed dorm of Coupe room and imagine travelling by Ukrainian window overlooks Chervonoamiys’ka street and the common trains. Soviet room or Forest one, or maybe the Rocket room, room window overlooks the newly renovated Olympiyskyi stadium, whichever you choose you’ll get the high standard service where the final match of Euro2012 football championship took and common set of amenities, including free breakfast and place. Breakfast is available for 20Hr. =4 rooms (1 double €42, Wi-Fi, laundry service, information support, etc. Smoking is 1 quad €33, 1 8-bed dorm €9 - 10, 1 10-bed dorm €9).#) allowed only in basement. =6 rooms (2 doubles €14 - 15, 2 Gagarin B-6, Pervomayskoho 11, Klovska, tel. (+380) quads €12, 1 8-bed dorm €9, 1 10-bed dorm €8).#) 67 877 39 93, [email protected], www.gagarin- Zig Zag A-5, Gorkoho 3A, apt.18 (press 18 at the hostel.com.ua. Gagarin is located in 300 m from Klovska metro entrance), Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 98 700 08 80, station in the middle of Kyiv business area, surrounded by all city fax (+380) 44 272 61 77, [email protected], www. skyscrapers. It provides accommodation for 60+ people in 14 zzhostel.com. Zig Zag settled down across the road from lovely rooms, featuring free Wi-Fi, lockers, complimentary breakfast Shevchenko park and the Red Building of National University. The and coffee/tea are always at hand . The hostel is clean and hostel can accommodate up to 62 people in 8 rooms, being staff speaks English well. The common area is equipped with probably the first hostel that offers male/female dorms. Nice kitchen and TV. Ask administrator for bike rental. =#K) lounge area upstairs provides TV/DVD and even PlayStation Kiev Central Station A-2, Hoholivs’ka 25, apt. 15, options, while downstairs there are several PCs for use and a nice Universytet, tel. (+380) 93 758 74 68, www.kiev- kitchen. All rooms come with lockers, air-conditioning and free centralstation.com. Managed by Brazilian/Ukrainian staff Wi-Fi. =8 rooms (quad private €60, 4-bed dorms €12 - 13, 6-bed this hostel offers backpackers all they are expecting to get. dorm €11, 8-bed dorm €10, 10-bed dorm €9).#) Homy atmosphere, a lot of information and close location to the train station make Kyiv Central Station the good choice Apartment Rental for a stop in Kyiv. Choosing a dorm or one of privates you’ll get Grata Apartment Service C-3, Mykhailivs’kyi prov. 9A, all range of usual hostel amenities including free Wi-Fi. =5 Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 468 07 57, fax rooms (2 doubles €19 - 20, 1 quad €17 - 18, 1 6-bed dorm (+380) 44 238 26 03, [email protected], www. €13 - 16, 1 12-bed dorm €13 - 14).#$ ) accommodation.kiev.ua. A small network of serviced apart- Magic Bus Kyiv H-3, Saksahans’koho 31, apt. 3, L’va ments in the very heart of Kyiv. All apartments are modern, Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 97 336 0303, busofmagic@gmail. well furnished, well-equipped and come with cable TV. Drivers com, www.magicbushostel.com. When we first entered and interpreters are also available. =31 rooms (10 studio the place our first thought was “cool, it’s so funny and bright”. €38 - 72, 16 one-room €45 - 104, 5 two-room €78 - 105). Except of red/green/blue walls, there is a terrific… guess Kiev Apartments C-4, Horodets’koho 11, office 34, what?.. golden toilet! Hostel stuff is very friendly and helpful Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 93 685 00 76/ and rooms are always clean. Due to its location on one of (+380) 96 058 55 25, [email protected], www.ki- the main traffic streets, it might be a bit noisy outside, but evapts.com. Kiev Apartments offers the largest variety of we may apply this to a half of Kyiv hostels. =3 rooms (2 fully serviced apartments in the prime centre of Kyiv. Apart- doubles €12 - 13, 1 12-bed dorm €8).#) ments for every taste, budget and style. Free airport pick-up. The Hub Hostel H-3, Saksahanskoho 66B, Universytet, = studio 57 - 99US$, one-room 67 - 179US$, two-room 84 tel. (+380) 44 229 12 66, [email protected], www. - 289US$, three-room 164 - 369US$.# thehubhostel.com. The Hub is in a separate unique little build- Kiev for You tel. (+380) 67 242 12 24, apartkiev@ ing hidden in the centre on one of those rare, quiet side streets. gmail.com, www.apkiev.com.ua. Comfortable, clean, The staff is helpful and friendly and great in English. It’s very fully-furnished domestic apartments in the centre of Kyiv. All neat and clean with a 24 hour reception, free coffee and tea, and are equipped with air-conditioning, Jacuzzi, cable or satellite basically everything one looks for in a hostel; Wi-Fi, a large social TV, DVD player, high speed Internet and independent hot- room with large screen TV, washing machine, lockers, and a well water supply. Airport and train station pick-up and accounting equipped kitchen and eating area. The prices are reasonable receipts are also available. = (6 one-room 50 - 85US$, 4 with beds costing from €14-19 per night per person. There are two-room 60 - 90US$, 2 three-room 125 - 140US$, 1 four-room private rooms for 1-2 costing from €50. There are bikes to rent 130US$).#$ and lots of activities are arranged including games, movie nights, and pub crawling. And if Max is on duty - ask him to show you Olga tel. (+380) 44 237 20 06/(+380) 44 233 04 44, his famous “bubble tricks”. =#) [email protected], www.apartment-kiev.com. Nice apartments in the centre of Kyiv. All the necessities for a TIU Khreschatyk C-4, Khreschatyk 8B, apt. 11, comfortable life. Double beds, satellite TV, Internet, bathroom, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 50 331 18 47, tiu. kitchen, music centre, air-conditioners, washing machine, micro- [email protected]. This quaint little hostel is right in the wave oven, iron, etc. The location is beautiful - around Maidan heart of Kyiv, just a minute or 2 from Independence Square. and Khreschatyk. = 4 one-room 60 - 65US$, 12 two-room Staff is very friendly and English speaking. There is a room for 65 - 120US$, 2 three-room 100US$, 2 four-room 200 - 250US$. 10 and a room for 2. The kitchen is spacious and fully equipped, Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com RESTAURANTS 23

Ukrainian Decoding the menu Kanapa Restaurant Saloon C-2, H-1, Andriivskiy Uzviz 19A, tel. (+380) 44 425 45 48, www.kanapa-restaurant. kiev.ua. A very upscale Ukrainian restaurant right in the midst of Ukraine’s main tourist trap. The dishes are huge and colourful not your ordinary Ukrainian food as in most places. An average complete meal for 2 will run around 1,000Hr. And if you are on one of the terraces - the view is spectacular! The original structure of the building dates back to the 17th century and has been beautifully restored. There are lovely paintings decorating the place and are for sale as well. Do not forget to visit the shop as you leave and take home some handmade gifts. =Open 11:00 - 23:00.#) Ukrainian dishes show a sophisticated simplicity based Kniazhyi Grad C-3, H-2, Velyka Zhytomyrska 2, on pleasing combinations of fresh, pickled, and smoked Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 06 41, ingredients. While cooking techniques are not compli- www.knyazhiy-grad.com. It was like entering a huge throne cated, dishes may contain a great number of ingredients room. Located under the Diplomatic Institute, this cellar has and unusual combinations, such as shuba salad which been marvellously transformed. There are stones pillars combines pickled herring and beets. Food is neither highly and arches throughout with swords and plaster figures set spiced nor bland, but skilfully seasoned to perfection. in them. The cuisine is traditional Russian and Ukrainian with Bread, is of course the mainstay of the Ukrainian diet. The an average meal costing around 400Hr. =Open :00 - 24:00. country’s reputation as the “breadbasket of Europe” is well # %) deserved. The French writer Honore de Balzac, who lived in Ukraine for four years, counted 77 different ways of preparing Kult RA C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 4, Zoloti Vorota, tel. bread. It is such a central part of the diet here that there is (+380) 44 331 59 48, www.kultra.org. This is a journey a custom to give honoured guests and departing or arriving in time to Pre-Christian Ukraine. The staff wears traditional travellers the gift of a loaf of bread and salt. This tradition is costumes and speaks some English. The décor is “early still used in welcoming ceremonies for dignitaries and other Ukrainian”, like being in an old village. There is nothing on the important persons. menu that was not in the “Pagan” times, hence no tomatoes Another staple of Ukrainian diet is kasha or what would or potatoes. The organic menu is reasonably priced and in be called “mush” in America and “porridge” in Britain. English. A specialty is the mustached cat fish fillet smoked Borshch is certainly the national dish of Ukraine, even in vegetables for 106Hr. We tried the fried trout in herbs with making its appearance on the menus of Chinese and beets and celery and found it great! There are homemade Italian restaurants in Kyiv. This uniquely Ukrainian soup liquors and Ceriman herbal teas to enjoy. The place is ab- has been adopted by other countries in the region, but solutely non-smoking. =Open 10:00 - 23:00.#) as recently as 45 years ago it could not even be found Kureni D-6, Parkova doroha 4, tel. (+380) 44 253 17 in restaurants in other Soviet republics. The many ver- 24/(+380) 44 360 56 24, www.carteblanche.ua/en/. sions of borshch served throughout the country reflect Kureni, one of the oldest restaurants in Kyiv, has reopened the individuality of Ukrainians as well as their ingenuity. after renovations. Chef Natalia Bondareva offers Ukrainian The beet-based soup can contain as many as 20 differ- cuisine and follows the modern European traditions. The ent ingredients, depending on the season, region, and restaurant represents a truly outdoor style, but it is located of course, personal preference of the cook. It can be in the centre of the city. The Ukrainian hospitality along with a meatless or prepared from a rich meat stock and contain breathtaking view of the Dnipro river and surrounding natural either beef or smoked pork. landscape make this place exceptionally unique. =Open The availability of ingredients for traditional cooking are 12:00 - 02:00. €€#' *% often dependent on the season, so most varieties of vegetables sometimes make their appearance in certain Pervak A-5, H-3, Rohnidyns’ka 2, L’va Tostoho, tel. dishes in their pickled form. You also might find that (+380) 44 235 09 52, www.pervak.kiev.ua. Ta k e a t r i p certain dishes listed on a menu might not be available back in time to early 20th century Kyiv. The décor includes at certain times of year. the showing of silent movies, and the restaurant itself is on Salads are very common, but rather than being lettuce- the site of a famous merchant’s house. A friendly wait staff based, combinations of fresh, cooked, and preserved in costumes serves up a variety of hearty Ukrainian dishes vegetables may be mixed with meat, cheese, or fish. With with inventive names. =Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€ so many different recipes, the only constant of Ukrainian salads are the presence of vinegar or mayonnaise. Sinoval H-3, Saksahans’koho 40, tel. (+380) 44 289 Varenyky are dumplings made from boiled or fried dough, 54 75, www.sino.com.ua. It is a different sort of place resembling ravioli without red sauce. They can be filled which one finds out upon entry and is greeted with a bathtub with meat, potatoes, cabbage, and sometimes mush- full of fish. The décor is kind of flea market with old radios, rooms for as an entrée, or sour cherries or sweetened typewriters, books, and assorted knickknacks scattered cottage cheese and raisins as a dessert. Any kind can throughout. The cuisine is Ukrainian with an average meal be accompanied by butter or sour crème. running just 100Hr or so. There is a delicious lunch served The word holubtsi can be translated into “little pigeons,” daily for just 39Hr. One can see the daily special on line in but really has nothing to do with fowl of any kind. They are their very interesting web-site. There is no English menu cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice or buckwheat nor English speaking staff when we were there - but in such and often covered with a thin tomato sauce. a relaxed atmosphere - there is bound to be another guest For a uniquely Ukrainian drink, try kvas, a slightly sweet happy to help out. =Open 11:00 - 23:00. non-alcoholic beverage with a wheat-like taste sold from giant tanks on wheels in the summer throughout the city. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 24 RESTAURANTS

Taras Bulba B-4, Pushkinska 2-4/7, Khreschatyk, tel. Zheltok A-4, Lva Tolstoho 11/61, Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 270 72 48, www.tarasbulba.kiev.ua. This is a (+380) 63 396 10 10. Do not let the name confuse you - it very traditional Ukrainian restaurant - like being in a village. The is really a pretty good attempt at copying an American diner. staff wears those cute costumes and the place is loaded with (I doubt though if many exist anymore.) The breakfast/lunch jars of handmade conserves and preserves along with antiques menu is served from 08:30-17:30 with unlimited coffee. There and decorations all of which can be bought on the spot. While are great American type pancakes along with real American it looks extremely old - it opened recently. Taras Bulba is family hot dogs and hamburgers. The average price is about 60Hr. oriented with a great children’s play room and there is seating The dinner menu is from 17:30-23:00 featuring international for 186. Not only is there an English menu – they have them is and American cuisine. An average meal in the evening runs 36 languages! (Someone please call Guinness). There are, as about 150Hr. It holds about 75 and all speak English well! expected, many different dishes of borscht available, rabbit, =Open 08:30 - 23:00.#K%) and 20 different types of varenyky, and plenty of delicious Ukrainian dishes. An average meal cost around 150-200Hr. Belgian Breakfast is from 09:00-12:00 with free coffee included. The business lunch is from 12:00-16:00 from 60Hr. They have their Belle Vue A-5, Saksahans’koho 7, Palats Sportu, tel. own discount card and there are discounts for birthdays. They (+380) 44 390 09 00, www.belle-vue.com.ua/en/. This also hold special “seasonal” parties with workshops in arts and ‘Belgian beer café’ sports a lovely wooden interior full of mir- crafts for children. =Open 09:30 - 22:00.#K%) rors and antiques. Once your table has been cleared of ads Varenichnaya #1 A-5, Esplanadna 28, Palats Sportu, and flyers, you’ll have room for your favourite beer plus Belgian tel. (+380) 44 287 15 39, www.2k.ua. From its opening, and Ukrainian cuisine. The metre-long Belle-Vue sausage is Varenichnaya #1 became a favourite for many. To Kyivites it a specialty. =Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€#'% seems that this restaurant has always been a feature near the Le Cosmopolite B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 47, Zoloti Palace of Sport! At the entrance you will be met by a charming Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 72 78. Designed in the style decorative pig called Varvara. There are three halls decorated of early 20th century Belgian brassieres located throughout in a picturesque Philistine style of the early 20th century, and a European capitals, Le Cosmopolite’s art-nouveau décor im- summer terrace. =Open 24hrs.#& % presses with lots of wooden panels and a marble bar. Belgian and international food is accompanied by a wide selection American of Belgian beers on tap. =Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun .%7 11:00 - 02:00. €€#  Beef’s Bar H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 65, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 77 55, www.beefys.com.ua. I cannot Caucasian remember the last time I tasted a real Chili Cheese Hot Dog. I got the “real thing” here! Beef’s say they specialise in Burgers & Chechevica H-3, Chervonoarmiiska 65, Olimpiiska, Chili. I think that Tex-Mex-is also a pretty good description. The tel. (+380) 44 287 11 16, www.chechevica.com.ua. palace has an authentic “American” type design which adds to Here is a lovely culinary experience not too far from the the atmosphere. There are all kinds of Burgers & chili along with centre. While the speciality is Georgian cuisine, there is also chicken wings, tortillas, nachos and more. There is also a Salad Thai food, sushi and pizza; all at reasonable prices. There is bar and American deserts such as brownies and a traditional an open grill area so you can see your food being cooked. banana split. The staff made me feel at home, and spoke English The decor is quite unique - very “sweet and comfortable”. ok. The prices are very reasonable with the medium price being The staff is super friendly and speaks great English. There is seating for 150 on two levels plus a terrace. There are also about 70-80Hr. =Open 10:00 - 23:00.#%) several VIP rooms for private gatherings. =Open 11:00 – T.G.I. Friday’s A-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, Khres- 24:00.#%) chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 235 42 64, www.fridays.com.ua/ en. Famous for decades all over the world and synonymous Gorets H-2, Vorovskoho 9, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 with great value and good times, this chain restaurant is a 272 23 00, www.gorets.kiev.ua. This Georgian restaurant is real piece of Americana in the heart of Kyiv. Friday’s attracts really worth visiting-like taking a trip to the Caucasus. Everyone expats longing for familiar food, which comes in huge portions is wearing traditional costumes and the place is crawling with at reasonable prices and is served by the best staff in the city. decorations, dishes, pans, photos, you name it-like visiting a Visitors will find the Kyiv menu has more salads and grilled museum. The menu is in English and the staff was very helpful meats than the Stateside version. The wine list is terrific and and easy to speak with. An average meal runs around 400Hr. the cocktails (there are more than 400 of them) will speak And it was hard for us to choose. We finally settled on the “Kh- inkali” which is a spicy Georgian Ravioli- really yummy! There is for themselves. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€#&% = also a children’s menu and a business lunch menu weekdays from 12:00-16:00 for 80Hr. There are weekend discounts-card Symbol key discounts and various promotions. Sometimes there is live- traditional music. =Open 12:00 - 24:00.#*) #Air-conditioning Live music Hinkalnaya C-3, Volodymyrska 11, Zoloti Vorota, tel. >Animal friendly Nearest station (+380) 44 279 28 65, www.kafehinkalnaya.kiev.ua. A recent entry into the Kyiv “eatery” scene. This is Georgian cuisine &Child friendly Non-smoking areas at its fines with a real Georgian chef. Walking in one is nearly Credit cards accepted * Smoking section knocked over by the compelling aroma drifting from the kitchen. There is an English menu which also offers European cuisine and 'Facilities for the disabled %Ta k e a wa y has a great wine list with popular Georgian wines. The staff was  Fireplace Ter ra c e friendly and the service great with seating for 200. We suggest trying the traditional snack of Khinkali for just 14Hr! An average Guarded parking ) Wi-Fi internet access menu runs around 200Hr. There are photos of vintage US cars on ( Home delivery the walls and there is a car actually built in/under the bar. From Wednesday-Sunday there is live music featuring Jazz & Blues from 20:30-22:30. =Open 11:00 - 23:00.# )

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kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 26 RESTAURANTS

Scottish Chinese Bruce Lee B-4, Proreznaya 2, Khreschatyk, tel. Whisky Corner C-3, Sofiivska 16/16, Zoloti (+380) 44 360 70 60, www.brucelee.com.ua. A great Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 279 02 15, www.whisky- little eatery just a stone’s throw from Kyiv’s main drag - corner.kiev.ua. “Show me the way to the next whisky Khreschatyk. It’s got great Chinese design and is quite cosy bar” - Well here it is! Just a stone’s throw from Inde- - seating 44. The chef is from China so you can be sure it’s the pendence Square with about 600 labels of whisky to real thing. It’s a real young and friendly English-speaking staff choose from. The theme is “Scottish” hence the lovely and they really made us feel welcome. Portions run between plaid costumes the staff wear. The décor is modern around 25-88Hr with an average meal costing about 120Hr. yet relaxed seating 70. There is an English menu with There are 4 great “business” menus ranging from 35-105Hr. European and of course, Scottish cuisine costing 300Hr =Open 10:00 - 22:00.#(%) for an average meal - steaks would be more. We dared to order traditional Scottish haggis in a baked potato Lun Van B-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 26, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 279 81 91. Lun Van offers arguably the most for 75Hr and were impressed. Open 12:00 - 24:00. = savoury and authentic Chinese in town. The beef and chicken #*) stir-fry are excellent and the spicy veal will definitely have you reaching for your beer, eyes watering. Friendly and efficient service has become a trademark. The private dining room Gastronomic accommodates up to 12 and is ideal for business luncheons, larger dinner groups and families with noisy children. =Open Barsuk I-4, Kutuzova prov. 3A, Pecherska, tel. 11:00 - 02:00. #%) (+380) 50 386 36 29, www.barsuk.kiev.ua. Barsuk offers a tastefully presented, pallet pleasing range of Mandarin D-3, I-1, Moskovsky prosp. 32, Kontrak- European and local dishes. Freshness is this restaurant’s tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 229 04 59, www.mandarin. recipe to success and is on display in the carefully chosen ua. This floating Asian restaurant boasts 25 Chinese cooks selection of salads, the fresh pastas smothered with your and over 100 items on the menu, including pig’s ears, jelly- choice of signature sauce and steaming steaks and sea- fish and (relatively) expensive sushi. Most of the dishes are food. This place is loaded with extras including an Italian/ for two or more people, so don’t be selfish and share with European deli and culinary classes available to the public your partner. There is a special tearoom, a kid’s room with every weekend from 11:00-14:00. This restaurant can be professional baby-sitter, and even a mooring for your boat, a bit tricky to find, as it is located on Kutuzova provulok, should you bring it. English menu available. =Open 24hrs.  a small perpendicular side street off Kutuzova vul. From #& %) the Pechers’ka metro station, head towards the river and take the third street on the left. =Open 08:00 - 23:00. Czech €€.#'(*%) .%7 Foodtourist A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 5 (Arena City), Kozlovitsa B-5, T.Shevchenka Bulv. 1, Lva Tolstoho, 2nd floor, Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 095 780 60 70, tel. (+380) 44 228 07 07, kozlovica.com.ua/en. This is www.foodtourist.com.ua. Foodtourist is right smack a large Czech Beer house dead in the centre. There is seating dab in the centre. The theme is simply “food fashion”; the for 250 on two levels. The décor is simple Czech beerish. The cuisine is International and Ukrainian and they have an food is traditional Czech with lots of sausages and items like open Josper grill. The chef is from Marseilles and speaks pig knuckles with cabbage for 239 Hr. An average meal will run great English as does the staff. There are so many differ- around 200-300Hr.There is a business lunch from 12:00-16:00 ent items to choose from, but we finally chose the grilled for just 53Hr. Take a card at lunch and after 4 visits-the 5th lunch quail with veggies for just 137Hr. An average meal runs is free. There are special promotions from time to time and it’s between 150-200Hr. A unique feature is the two large a great place to celebrate birthdays. Everyone was friendly and dining tables covered with beautiful thick grass. This was proficient in English. =Open 12:00 - 00:00.#%) definitely a 1st for us - and less for the staff to clean up afterwards. There is also a breakfast menu served from U Golema A-3, Chapaeva 4V, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 09:00-12:00 with prices about 35Hr.The place is quite 44 234 45 56, www.ugolema.com.ua. Those of you who have large holding 200 guests and there is Wi-Fi available along never been to Prague or read about it, must have heard some- with an excellent view of the city. =Open 09:00 - 24:00. thing of the legend of Golem. According to legend, Golem was #K%) created out of clay from the banks of Vltava river in the late 16th century to defend the Prague ghetto from pogroms. The legend GastroRock C-1, Vozdvyzhenska 10B, Kontrak- is sad, but there is also a nicer part to it which is described on the tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 50 390 61 31, www. walls of this Czech restaurant. The menu, beautifully decorated, gastrorock.kiev.ua. A cool type of pub for the younger features a long list of traditional rich Czech cuisine. We recom- age set. There is much truly unique here - like beer in a tin mend trying at list one dish from Bramborov ý Listek (potato with fish, or is it fish in a tin with beer? You can buy your pies with different fillings) from a simple one for 27Hr to the most own cured leg of pork and leave it hanging for whenever expensive with pork for 89Hr. There is pale and dark Podkován you come in. For steak lovers there is a 2kg steak for only draft beer on tap. The wine list includes Italian, Chilean and 599Hr. There are special Sunday dinners where the staff Georgian wines. =Open 12:00 - 22:00.# %) trade places with the customers. Breakfast is from 08:00- 12:00 with a special for 49Hr. There is a business lunch U Hromogo Pola J-3, Suvorova 4, Arsenal’na, tel. from 12:00-15:00 for 69Hr. An average meal runs about (+380) 44 280 50 07, www.uhromogopola.com.ua. The 200-250Hr. The place holds 80+ and there is live music first restaurant in Kyiv to serve genuine Czech cuisine. The along with special cocktails every Wednesday - Saturday. food is good and large - the various platters are an excellent =Open 08:00 - 02:00. #K%) introduction to Czech cuisine, as long as you like meat. U Hromogo Pola serves quality and robust bucket sized por- tions on the plate and fresh beer. =Open 10:00 - 24:00. #&%)

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com RESTAURANTS 27

European Cote d`Azur D-3, Sahaidachnoho 15, Boutique Hotel Riviera, tel. (+380) 44 581 28 28, www.rivierahotel. com.ua/en/restaurant. Sitting on the 7th floor of the hotel, one has a splendid view of the old town Podol and the Dnipro River. The décor is breath-taking with a gold-white combination. The cuisine is European/Ukrainian with an aver- age meal running around 500Hr. We heard they have a great “Chicken Kiev” but we ordered the pepper steak with veggies for 320Hr - delicious! There are smoking and non-smoking areas with total seating for 80 plus a VIP room for 15. The restaurant can be booked for banquets, weddings, and other special occasions. =Open 11:00 - 23:00.#*) Grill-Bureau Pache C-4, Kostelna 3, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 02 11/(+380) 67 187 49 49, www.pache.com.ua. Fish lovers - this is for you! Right in the centre you can enjoy not only their fish specialty but can choose from the great selection of Italian/ European cuisine. We ordered the sea bass from the Josper grill for just 145Hr and are glad we did. An average complete meal will run around 300Hr. There is a breakfast menu from 09:00-12:00 for 30 and 38Hr. The décor is awesome - very modern with wood everywhere. It seats 100 and there is a VIP room and a summer terrace. =Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.#%) INK A-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 52/17, Leonardo Business Centre, tel. (+380) 44 224 50 65/(+380) 67 506 04 26, ink-restaurant.com. This upscale Restaurant is located inside the business centre and is a great place for those serious business lunches. It is modern and spacious with a bright design. The cuisine is basically European and they have a great selection of Black Sea fish. An average meal will easily cost around 500Hr. The menu is in English and all were happy to speak with us. There is also a breakfast menu available from 10:00-12:00. =Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. L’Entrecote B-5, Baseina 5B, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 593 80 39, www.lentrecote.com.ua. “Smart Food. Smart people” is their motto. This is a great “budget restaurant” right in the centre. A main dish consists of either beef steak, salmon steak, mussels, or shrimp accompanied by bread, salad, and potatoes or veggies; All for just 89Hr. There are also single portions of soup, sandwich, hamburger, & a cheese dish for prices ranging from 32Hr-69Hr. There are some yummy desserts too for around 35Hr. Breakfast is served until 12:00 costing between 20Hr-36Hr. It has a modern yet simple design with seating for 130, with a friendly English speaking staff. =Open 08:00 – 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.#K) maLLina café D-3, Sahaidachnogo 27B, Poshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 45 08, www.mallinaproject. com.ua. This easy to find oasis is on the main street in busy Podil. Once inside however, one feels far away from the hustle and bustle of the city. There are sofas and easy chairs down- stairs for 50. This is the smoking section where hookahs can be rented. Up the very steep and old fashioned attic stairs is a cozy non smoking section for about 22. It makes one feel more at home then in a restaurant. There are jars of raspberry (mallina) compote everywhere. Why the fuss about raspberry’s? It’s do with the Russian proverb that roughly translates; “Life is like a raspberry”, or “It’s a good life”. Aside from the European, Home- made and Japaneese cuisines, there is a separate section on the menu devoted to raspberry, including fillet minion. The prices are reasonable and the service warm and friendly .Come when the weather warm and sit outside under lovely trees where there is room for 70. =Open 11:00 - 02:00.#*%) kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 28 RESTAURANTS

Onegin B-4, Pushkins’ka 11, tel. (+380) 44 278 75 06, answer is simple; this was once a USSR government building and www.restoranonegin.com. Here is a great eatery right in Fidel himself once smoked a cigar here. Their speciality is Black the centre. We were delighted to see our old friend, Gary, Sea fish, and also the fact that one can order anything “off menu”. as head chef. He is world renown, and started the Arizona An average meal costs around 300Hr. They have a wide variety and other great restaurants. He recommended us the veal of wine and claim to have the lowest wine prices in town! The ribs with potatoes and asparagus for just 115Hr. They were staff is super friendly and fluent in English and they will be happy mouth watering! An average complete meal will run about to take you on a tour. =Open 09:30 – 00:30.#%) 200Hr-250Hr. The décor is a “Bistro-type” and there is a .%7 sidewalk terrace when the weather is fine. An English menu Vogue Café D-3, Sahaidachnoho 11, Poshtova Plos- is available and if you have trouble communicating, just ask cha, tel. (+380) 44 220 08 09, www.voguecafe.ua. As for Gary. =Open 11:00 - 24:00.# %) the name suggests, this is an upscale café-restaurant. It .%7 has a classic, “vogue” design and it is almost like eating San Paolo C-4, Muzeynyi prov. 4, Maidan Nezalezh- in a palace. The restaurant is very spacious, holds around nosti, tel. (+380) 44 290 98 00, www.sanpaolo.com.ua. 100, and is properly divided into smoking and non smoking Approaching the entrance, we knew we were in for something sections. The menu is European cuisine with such offers as special. Sao Polo is stylish and spacious and at the same roast loin of venison for 285Hr. A medium bill here will run you time warm and comfortable. The kitchen offers European about 500-600Hr per person. The staff is super friendly and cuisine with such dishes as “veal rack with potatoes and wild spoke very good English. =Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun mushrooms”. (289Hr) There are also some great vegetarian 11:00 - 24:00.#) dishes. An average meal will run around 400-500Hr and is certainly worth it. There is always something new like “White truffle week” and a Friday evening pianist. There is seating French for over 80 with a banquet room for 100, and a VIP business %Dƅ$$5%UDVHULH B-5, Besarabska pl. 2, Khreschatyk, room for 20. =Open 10:00 - 20:00.#) tel. (+380) 44 238 21 11, www.bazaar.kiev.ua. This is a fairly new restaurant (Summer 2011) with a lovely modern Traktir na Basseinoy B-5, Basseina 2A, Lva Tol- French design and located in the same building as the famous stoho, tel. (+380) 50 444 97 44, www.traktir-kiev.com. Besarabsky market. In fact, one can get a table with a bird’s A nice little Beer-house a couple of doors from the Pinchuck eye view of the market below. See something you like in the Art Centre and down the stairs... If you have your own spe- market, buy it, bring it up and have the kitchen prepare it while cial beer mug there is a special locker with a glass door to you wait. Or enjoy a dish from the menu specialising in French store it in. They have a wide variety of beers and it is a great and Italian cuisine. There is an English menu and staff speaks restaurant too! There is an open grill for meat and there are some English as well. There is also a lovely cheese platter to plenty of beer snacks. It is Ukrainian/European cuisine with an hold you while you wait. We tried the duck breast with caramel average meal running around 200Hr. On Friday’s & Saturday’s apples for 190Hr and really enjoyed it! An average meal will run there is live music with different bands playing rock, jazz, and you about 250Hr-300Hr. =Open 10:00 - 24:00. #) pop. =Open 11:00 - 24:00.#) Fellini C-4, Horodets’koho 5, Khreschatyk, tel. Varadero G-2, T.Shevchenka bulv. 27A, Universytet, (+380) 44 279 54 62. A wonderful location for people- tel. (+380) 44 234 03 70, www.t-v.com.ua. Opened autumn watching, as the two terraces overlook the fashionable 2012 it is a lovely restaurant on 3 floors with seating for 70+. It Ukraina cinema just off Khreschatyk. Fellini offers delicious has a bright - formal yet comfortable design and cosy fireplaces. French and Italian food, including frog legs and goose liver There are pictures all over the wall of life in Cuba. We thought for those who likes such delicacies. Prices are above aver- it strange as Varadero has European/ Ukrainian cuisine. The age, but meals are incredibly delicious and service is good. A summer terrace overlooks beautiful Horodetskoho street. Quick & Cheap =Open 24 hrs. #K %)

Olivie B-4, B.Khmelnytskoho 16-22, Teatralna. Located right in the centre, the Olive is actually a pleas- ant make-over of a former branch of Domashnia Kuchnia, Fast food & Sandwiches a cafeteria that has been in Kyiv for ages. The décor is an eye catching light green and there are TV screens Kentucky Fried Chicken H-5, Ocean Plaza, Gorkoho for football everywhere. The food is everyday Ukrainian 176, Lybidska, tel. (+380) 50 332 75 04. To our and one can get a decent meal anywhere from 20-50Hr knowledge, it’s the 1st KFC in Ukraine. It looks and feels depending on how hungry one is. Also at Metrograd Shop- like the real thing - and tasted like it too! We were a little ping Mall. =Open 08:00 - 23:00.# surprised though to find no English-speaking staff or English menu at all. The prices are not too bad - about what one Puzata Khata D-2, Kontraktova pl. 2/1, Kontrak- would expect and there is seating for about 100. The tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 391 46 99, www.puza- entrance is from the outside the mall and they are open tahata.com.ua/eng/. It is a great place for breakfast, almost non-stop. =Open 06:00 - 04:00.#%) lunch, or even dinner with your sweetheart, and there are a wide variety of pastries on the second floor. For people McDonald’s B-4, Khreschatyk 19 A, Khreschatyk, who know almost nothing about Ukrainian food and are tel. (+380) 44 230 27 37. Despite popular Ukrainian not sure if it is worth spending a lot of money in a restau- claims that the golden arches are forming cracks, most rant to find out what Ukrainians like the most, it is a good locations are usually busy. The menu here is considerably opportunity for a trial taste. Besides, you will find yourself smaller than in Western countries: the sandwich list is basic in a real Ukrainian peasant house, so, enjoy! Also at B-4, with some extras. Breakfast menu is available until 10:00. Khreschatyk 15/4, Passage; H-3, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 40; Also at: C-4, Sofiivs’ka 1/2; D-3, Borychiv Uzviz 10; A-5, D-2, Kontraktova pl. 2/1; B-5, Baseina 1/2, Bessarabska Chervonoarmiys’ka 22; A-3, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 40/25 pl. =Open 08:00 - 23:00.#%) and everywhere. =Open 07:00 - 24:00.#%)

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com RESTAURANTS 29

Fusion Buddha-bar C-4, Khreschatyk 14, Maidan Nezalezh- nosti, tel. (+380) 44 270 76 76, www.buddhabar.com. Han-Gang ua. Buddha Bar is a heavy hitter all over Europe and is now enjoying similar success in Ukraine’s capital. It’s safe to say Korean Japanese Restaurant that this is the trendiest establishment in Kyiv. The recipe for their popularity is simple, high quality in a flashy package. For a one-stop-all-inclusive-evening this ranks high on the list of possibilities. Enjoy hard to find Indian, Thai and Chinese in the restaurant, and then head to the bar or the VIP lounge. If you’d like to get a sneak peak of what’s in store for you, check out Buddha’s very professional website. =Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. #  Concord A-5, Pushkins’ka 42/4, L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 234 77 88/(+380) 44 206 01 56, www. carteblanche.com.ua. This extremely upscale restaurant is a favourite with top businessmen, models and the like. The cuisine is called ‘French Fusion’ and includes some sumptious Kimchi-jjigae Bulgogi Asian and fish selections. If you are on a budget, don’t fret: you can pop in for coffee and dessert and still get to admire the great views of central Kyiv from the rooftop location. =Open 12:00 - 02:00.#& % Marocana Fashion Café I-4, Lesi Ukrainki bul’v. 24, Pechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 254 49 99, www.carte- blanche.com.ua. This restaurant’s unique cuisine has been created by blending the best culinary achievements of its chef, Tangsuyuk 5 Free Side Dishes the warm spirit of Morocco, Eastern creativity and European Beautiful view of the Dnipro River quality. The interior has a modern, fusion-like intrigue, and makes great use of the space. The relaxing atmosphere that Two VIP rooms with karaoke smothers the place late in the afternoons gives way to a styl- Š‡”‡Ƥ‡†–ƒ•–‡‘ˆ‘”‡ƒ —‹•‹‡ ish fashion-party feel in the evening. Alongside the excellent ͕ǡ–—œ‹ƒ•–‹˜–”ǤǡŽƒ˜—–‹ Š ‘–‡Žǡ͕͚ƪ‘‘” conventional menu there is sushi, a range of vegetarian dishes, Tel. (+380 44) 294 14 14 Ň Open 11:00 - 24:00 a cigar menu, a hookah menu, a top wine list and it’s even open for breakfast. =Open 09:00 - 02:00. #% Korean

International Han Gang Entuziastiv 1, Slavutych Hotel, 16 floor, BEEF Meat & Wine A-5, Shota Rustaveli 11, Palats Livoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 294 14 14, www. Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 225 00 35, www.beef.kiev.ua/en. han-gang.com.ua. Getting to this restaurant takes a A very large and modern complex. The staff is warm, friendly, small effort. Hop over the Dnipro to the left bank and the and English speaking. The decor is modern and spacious. The Slavutych Hotel, ascend to the 16th floor and turn right prices are defined as luxurious, from 300-600+Hr. There is a out of the lift. Once inside you’ll discover that the minor somewhat discounted lunch menu. The dishes we ordered travel hassle was well worth it. The panoramic view of the were top notch and delicious. You might wait a while on Friday’s right bank and the stunning domes of Kyivo-Pechers’ka evening, but we sure this experience worth it. There are 3 Lavra is arguably the best in the city. Skip the Japanese large TV screens and Wi-Fi, and there is a banquet room for and order the Korean - you won’t be disappointed. Kara- 50. =Open 12:00 - 24:00.# *) oke is available. =Open 11:00 - 24:00.#%) Lyon Wine Bar B-4, Prorizna 23A, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 22 14. The ‘wine bar’ in the name is exactly what this quaint little place near the “Golden Gate” implies. There is a fantastic selection of the most popular wines from all over the Italian world. The bar is downstairs and you can buy any bottle or, if you Al Faro H-3, Chervonoarmiis’ka 49A, Respublikans’kyi prefer wine by the litre, choose from over 10 types. There is also stadion, tel. (+380) 44 503 50 91, [email protected], a great seasonal – limited - menu with European cuisine, featuring www.alfaro.com.ua. Authentic Italian fare in the heart of salads, soups and delicious deserts. Main dishes include grilled Kyiv...someone pinch us, we must be dreaming. Choose from a salmon, sea bass, beef entrecôte, and duck confit. An average variety of classic dishes including fresh leafy salads, lasagne, meal will cost around 150Hr. Try the duck and you will not be penne, spaghetti, grilled salmon and ribs. The authentic disappointed. There are always some daily specials and different Italian-style pizzas come topped with fresh mozzarella, toma- events on weekends. =Open 12:00 - 23:00.#%) toes, prosciutto, oregano, etc., and are baked next to an open Vagon-Restaurant H-3, Chervonoarmiyska 52, flame in an old-style oven (take-out available). We sampled the Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 04 90, www.wagon- linguini with pesto, which is hands down the best in Kyiv. The ua.com. Different styles of train carriages make up one of the noodles were nice and firm - “Al dente, perfetto!” as they say most fantastic restaurant interiors in the city. Seating areas in Sicily. =Open 11:00 - 23:00.#&' include English, Western and Eastern Orient compartments, in addition to a French boulevard and a waiting hall where you can pour yourself beer from taps on the table. The cuisine €1 = 10.97Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 13.00Hr is Euro fusion. =Open 11:00 - 02:30. €€€#& % (27 November 2013 official rates) kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 30 RESTAURANTS

Boccaccio B-6, Mechnikova 2, Klovska, tel. (+380) Osteria Pantagruel B-3, Lysenka 1, Zoloti Vorota, 44 377 55 45, www.carteblanche.ua. Located in the tel. (+380) 44 278 81 42, www.pantagruel.com.ua. A Parus Business Centre, this is actually three restaurants in time-proven Italian favourite, Osteria is widely recognised one seating over 300. It includes; a fancy Italian restaurant, for its excellent home-made pasta and impressive wine cel- a pizzeria, and a sushi restaurant. The Italian restaurant is lar. First-timers are strongly advised to try the ‘tagliatelle beautiful with a white-comfortable design. All the menus are alla Constantino’, named after Osteria’s chef-virtuoso in English & everyone speaks it fluently. The chef is from the Constantino Passalacqua. In the summer time you may also Tuscany region of Italy-so the food’s the real thing! An aver- enjoy your meal on a charming terrazzo in front of the historic age meal runs between 300-500Hr depending on the wine Golden Gate. =Open 11:00 - 23:00. Mon - Fri 8:00 - 11:00 ordered. There is a breakfast menu served from 08:00-12:00 breakfast.  and there is always a seasonal promotion. =Open 08:00 - .%7 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.#K&*) Rucola H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 57/3, Olimpiyska, .%7 tel. (+380) 44 239 88 88, www.rucola.com.ua. They Carpaccio C-3, Sofiivska 12, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, like to be known as an “Italian Restaurant For Friends” It is tel. (+380) 44 278 16 12. The restaurant is named after a pretty recent addition to the Italian restaurant scene and Giuseppe Cipriani who in 1950 invented a new cold dish of the food seemed authentic enough. There is a wood stove thinly sliced raw beef and called it “carpaccio.” Today this and of course, an original stone pizza oven. Not only are there method of thin slicing is popular all over the world. Carpaccio’s yummy pizzas, but a great selection of pasta, meat and fish. Italian chef offers delicious food with an Italian flavour. The We enjoyed the Porterhouse steak - 450 g for just 195Hr. long dining hall is has a simple red and white décor. At the far An average meal will run around 250-300Hr. It is quite large end is an open kitchen where one can observe the prepara- holding around 90 and the staff was super friendly and spoke tion of homemade pasta, authentic pizza, and other dishes. great English. =Open 24hrs.#%) We really enjoyed the “Rabbit a la Tuscan with olives” for just 115Hr. An average meal will cost around 250-300Hr and if Vero Vero I-1, Illinska 18, Kontraktova Ploscha, you come early you can have breakfast from 10:00-12:00. tel. (+380) 44 284 10 01, www.verovero.com.ua. Ital- As for the service; we cannot remember seeing a friendlier, ian food in beautiful surroundings! Not only is there a cosy smiling staff that really made us feel at home. =Open 10:00 restaurant but across the street in the park is a fenced in - 23:00.#%) dining area complete with a fountain with seating for around 150. The cuisine is authentic with the menu in Russian Da Vinci Fish Club C-3, Volodymyrska 12, Zoloti and Italian. An average complete meal will run 300+Hr. Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 34/(+380) 50 469 91 52, =Open 08:00 - 24:00.#) www.da-vinci.com.ua. Where did we enter a time machine that transferred us to the Renaissance Italy? A big round bar of Venetian hat form and 12 blowing heads are right in the mid- Mediterranean dle of the ground floor. Beneath a real gondola “float” found its Den & Bros B-3, H-2, Yaroslaviv Val 19, tel. (+380) 44 harbour. On the second floor there are romantic Romeo and 272 22 20, www.denbros.com.ua. Den & Bros is a trendy Juliet balconies for lovers and the Balcony with beautiful view underground local not far from the “Golden Gate”. It has very over the city. Veroneze banquet hall is decorated with copies modern yet simple decor-basically grey and white throughout. of the famous Italian painters accommodate 14 - 20 people. The menu was specially developed by a Greek chef. The main Biblioteka hall with books, synopsis of classicists and sty- idea was to use local produce and ingredients for dishes with luses, as well as a VIP-hall for 6 people called Coliseum. The a Greek and Mediterranean flavour. We recommend trying the restaurant serves traditional Italian dishes and specialities. “Something from Ancient Greece salad” to experience “the Another attractive feature is an aquarium with live mussels, real thing”. The prices are quite reasonable with a complete crabs and lobsters. Every night (except for Sun) there is live meal running about 130Hr. There is a business lunch as well music, and Italian songs are performed by waiters. =Open from 12:00-16:00. Den & Bros is also proud of their cocktail 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€# ) list and the right way of making cocktails. Their Bloody Mary is truly one of the best in town, made from fresh tomato juice. Il Patio D-3, Ihorivs’ka 13/5, Poshtova Ploscha, tel. The menu is in English and communication was no problem. (+380) 44 501 74 64, www.il-patio.com.ua. Over the Fridays and Saturdays DJs rock the night. We never did see last few years Il Patio on Bessarabs’ka Sq. has been serving any brothers though. =Open 12:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 some of the finest pizza in town. The venue’s tasty Italian - 02:00.#%) fare can now be enjoyed down by the riverside at Il Patio second branch. This dinning spot pays homage to Venice Monaco C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 20A (Peyzazhna and even has a gondola in the main hall. The restaurant has Alley), Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 590 01 51, a delicious salad bar and specialises in ’Antipasta’ snacks www.monaco.com.ua. This restaurant adopts not only as well as wonderful pizza and other Italian dishes. Also at: the name of the Mediterranean principality, but its style and A-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, tel. (+380) 44 246 43 27; G-3, atmosphere too. Six different halls at the restaurant can Saksahans’koho 112A, tel. (+380) 44 594 20 87. =Open satisfy a wide variety of guests. The summer terrace on the 11:00 - 23:00. €€#& %) second floor opens up on the marvellous city view. The chef Thierry Alix and his team work hard to please their custom- Mozzarella Cafe D-3, Sahaidachnoho 23/8, tel. (+380) ers. =Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€€#& *% 44 417 60 52, www.mallinaproject.com.ua. A cute little Italian style restaurant with red & white chequered table cloths. It’s right on the main street in Podil with seating both inside and outside for 70. Pizzas range from 39Hr-98Hr and Much more reviews other dishes are quite reasonable with an average meal run- ning about 200Hr.There are also homemade preserves for are available at sale from the very friendly staff. =Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat kyiv.inyourpocket.com 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.#)

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com RESTAURANTS 31

Japanese Vegetarian Murakami D-2, Sahaidachnoho 35, Dnipro, tel. In the not so distant past there was not a single restau- (+380) 44 425 01 90, www.murakami.com.ua/en. All rant where Kyiv citizens and guest could eat purely veg- the usual suspects (nigiri, maki, sashimi, etc.) are represented etarian food. Some of the better restaurants though did in Murakami, and they also offer a touch of Thai and their have some vegetarian dishes to choose from. Recently own original dishes. We went on a Saturday and the place this tradition (which in our opinion was a bad one) has was packed. Don’t worry, the sushi will arrive fresh and tasty, finally come to an end. Restaurants are finally offering but your order will definitely start at the back of the queue. more and more vegetarian dishes and there are even a Karaoke gets started at 22:00. (One side note about karaoke rare few that offer the real thing: a healthy philosophy in Kyiv: Ukrainians take their singing very seriously. If you and thinking, a healthy surrounding, and healthy food. think that the audience will get a kick out of your piss-take of Barry Manilow’s “Copacabana” think again – you’re likely to iLive A-5, Esplanadna 32, Palats Sportu, tel. get booed). Delivery is also available. Open 11:00 - 24:00, (+380) 095 700 53 37, ilive.kiev.ua. This lively lounge = café found its place in a basement, just a step from Olimpi- Sat, Sun 13:00 - 06:00. €€#& () ysky stadium. The menu and philosophy are based on a Nobu A-5, Shota Rustaveli 12, Palats Sportu, tel. diet of raw vegetables, with some of the food coming from (+380) 044 246 77 34, www.2k.ua. A great Asian the proprietor’s own garden. The menu features mainly restaurant right in the centre, and guess what - sushi is not vegetarian food, the exception being dishes with salmon. the main course! It has a lovely Asian design, holds 50, and Different soups, porgies, vegetable cutlets, rise, risotto, has both smoking and non-smoking sections. The menu is sauté... if you have never tried to avoid meat you will be in English and the staff spoke it really well. An average meal surprised to meet so many various options. Whatever you will run about 350-400Hr and certainly worth it. We had the choose from the main dishes, for dessert, their baked apple “duck brisket in teriyaki sauce” with salad for just 198Hr. is a must. There is a menu in English and the staff eagerly =Open 11:00 - 24:00.# *) speak some. =Open 10:00 - 22:00.#(%) Tr i B-3, Olesia Honchara 15/3, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 292 03 03/(+380) 67 628 25 15, tri.kiev. Seafood ua. To our memory this is the fourth restaurant that has Barkas B-4, Volodymyrska 49A, Zoloti Vorota, tel. opened in this location. We really do hope it will have long life. (+380) 44 569 56 42, www.brsystems.ua. It is right by This is probably without any exceptions, the only completely Kyiv’s “Golden Gate”, yet you would be forgiven if you thought vegetarian restaurant in town. The menu excludes dishes you had been transported to Crimea. It’s a great seafood res- from meat, fish, eggs, sugar, yeast, white flour, and milk. It is taurant with “Black Sea” cuisine. But not just cuisine - all the based on seasonal food which grows in the region. The bar food comes from Crimea; fish, veggies, wine, and preserves. and healthy bakery offer fresh juices, smoothies, organic teas You can actually pick your dinner from the large aquarium. Its including their own house blends, cereals drinks, and cock- design is of a ship and there is seating for 150 – banquets tails from nut milk. The menu features main course dishes are welcome. The prices are quite reasonable with an aver- from spinach, mushrooms, cabbage, and other vegetables age meal - with wine - costing around 350Hr. On Thursday & for 65-79Hr. There are also soups for 35-49Hr and salads Friday there is a musical duo for your entertainment. There for 43-69Hr. But the restaurant itself is only a part of the are 2 “happy hours” weekdays; unlimited buns are served space. Tri: is a family place, so bring your kids with you to from 10:00-12:00 and unlimited coffee is available from take part in numerous activities offered by the restaurant. 14:00-16:00. =Open 10:00 - 23:00. =Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.#% Porto Maltese H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 72, Olimpiys- ka, tel. (+380) 44 288 18 88, www.portomaltese.kiev. ua/en/restorant.html. Porto, which can be found inside Uzbek the Olympiys’kyi trade complex is the latest in the worldwide Eshak H-6, Chervonoarmiyska 85/87, Palats Ukraina, chain of Porto restaurants. The venue specialises in dishes tel. (+380) 44 383 33 00, www.eshak.com.ua. A new ad- made from the finest fish and seafood, as well as cuisine dition to the Uzbec Restaurant trend. It is a stunning place to from Serbia and Montenegro, Croatia and Slovenia. Visitors vist with the “Mongol decor” transporting you to another time can select the fish themselves and then observe the entire & place. It is quite large with seating for 300 including several preparation process. =Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€# VIP rooms for private gatherings of up to 10. It is also “children friendly” with many families visiting on weekends. An average Soviet meal will cost around 300Hr per person. From Thursday through Sunday there is live music in the restaurant and a DJ on the Varenichnaya Katusha C-3, H-2, Sofiivska 14, terrace. There are also products & fresh exotic spices for sale. Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 220 00 15, =Open 11:00 – 23:00.#%) katysha.com.ua/en. A recently opened member of a rapidly growing restaurant chain here in the capital. It is authentic Tubeteyka H-3, Tarasivska 29/50, Olimpiyska, tel. Ukrainian food at very reasonable prices. The atmosphere (+380) 44 287 02 42, www.2k.ua. A real Uzbek restaurant! is homey with books and lots of knick-knacks from by gone It’s just outside the centre but easy to get to. There is a lovely days. Everything is fresh and homemade including some terrace outside and inside it’s decorated to the hilt with items yummy cakes! The menu changes every four months. Aside and costumes from Uzbekistan. It seats 120 with smoking from the expected Ukrainian food there are other great dishes and non-smoking areas. The staff is really friendly and speaks such as salmon steak for just 89Hr. There is no English menu, English ok. An average meal costs around 200-250Hr and but the pictures did help, and communicating is English was there are business lunches weekdays from 12:00-16:00 for a bit difficult. =Open 09:00 - 22:00. 64 and 84Hr. There is another restaurant of this chain nearby the Olimpiyskiy Stadium at Esplanadna 2 and another one at Lesi Ukrainky bulv. 34. Each of these two is as perfect as the first one. =Open 10:00 - 23:00.#&*%) kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 32 CAFÉSNIGHTLIFE

Aroma Espresso Bar H-4, Dymytrova 5, Olimpiyska, La Cantina B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 20, Zoloti Vorota, tel. tel. (+380) 44 202 66 33, fax (+380) 44 201 66 22, (+380) 44 234 70 74, www.la-catania.com.ua. A nice www.aromacafe.com.ua. A nice friendly place to relax little cafe-restaurant close to the Golden Gate. There is an and have light meals and breakfast. Mellow music is played; English menu and nice background music. It’s not so big, holds there is Wi-Fi, a moderately priced English menu. Aroma about 40. It has a lovely design and reminds one of being belongs to a world-wide chain of coffee shops with a good in Italy. Their specialty is stone-grilled meats; steak, turkey, reputation. We tried one of the house specialties, “Aroma chicken, and scrimp. We really enjoyed the turkey breast steak Salad” with Bulgarian cheese. Children are welcome. Also at with garlic and curry for 89Hr. An average meal runs about Mechnykova 3, tel.: (+380) 44 461 97 28; Zhylyans’ka 75, tel.: 350Hr-400Hr. =Open 11:00 - 00:00. (+380) 44 596 00 20, open 24hrs. =Open 08:00 - 23:00. Repriza A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 40/25, Zoloti Vo- #&(*%) rota, tel. (+380) 44 502 23 46, www.repriza.com. One .%7 of the first patisseries in the city, it has a lovely Viennese Baobab Mistycal Café C-3, Volodymyrska 18/2, tel. room stuffed with enough sugary delights to entertain the (+380) 96 451 01 01, www.bao-bab.kiev.ua. Have you kids and give you all a cavity or two. Though specialising in ever visited one of those quaint little coffee-shops in Lviv? Well, danishes, cakes and other gourmet sweets, those in need there are couple of them right here in Kyiv. The aroma hits you of more substantial food can partake of delicious soups when you walk in the door. They have that classic “Lviv-Coffee” and salads. Also located at D-3, Sahaidachnoho 10/5; B-2, design that makes one feel warm and cosy, and the music Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 38; A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 26. =Open played is mellow and pleasant. There is coffee from all around 08:00 - 22:00.#&% the world as well, chocolate, ice cream, and homemade cakes. SkyArtCafé%ůKHUYRQRDUPL\VND%DVH\QD Also at Shota Rustaveli 26. =Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 561 78 41. This unique 09:00 - 23:00.#) café is located on the 6th floor of the Pinchuk Art Centre. Café Imbir (Ginger) H-3, Zhylianska 7, Olimpiyska, tel. The décor is pure white and of a special geometrical design (+380) 44 287 61 80, www.cafeimbir.com. Reminded us of with a lovely view of the city. It was so bright we had to wear the TV series Harry’s law - The lawyer took over the premises of sunglasses. The all vegetarian menu is in English and contains a designer shoe and kept on selling the shoes. Ginger took over a soups, salads, and light meals. Prices are moderate to pricy. It home decorations store and continues to sell home decorations. is closed when the Art Center is closed for changing exhibits. It’s a café-restaurant with a lovely atmosphere offering vegetarian =Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon.#*) food with a vegan menu. An average meal will cost around 150Hr. Breakfast is served all day long and there is a business lunch as well from 12:00-16:00 costing 60Hr. In addition to the house decorations there is a shop selling oils, Asian spices, incense, Pay-for-Time and more. There are live concerts of Indian music from time to time so check it out - it is an experience you will not want to miss! 5 Komnat A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 6, Lva Tolstoho, =Open 08:00 - 22:00.#K) tel. (+380)67 899 67 54, www.5-komnat.com. The Chashka B-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 1-3, tel. (+380) 50 entrance is through an archway (Remember in Ukraine an 416 34 16. Forget the address - you will never find it that arch can be rectangular shaped-not round). And be care- way. Just make your way to the Pinchuck Art Gallery - oppo- ful for the very steep stairs. If you have been drinking, we site the Bessarabs’ka market-Chashka is two doors to the suggest you put off your visit for another time. It is “Pay for left of it. There is seating outside and inside where there is Time” place, with free coffee, tea, snacks, and games. The a trendy Italian type of décor. As the name implies one can cost is 20Hr for the first hour and 10Hr for each additional get a good cuppa here. There is also limited menu know as hour. The café is actually 5 underground rooms all joined “Little Italy”. The prices are very reasonable ranging from together to give a tunnel -like effect. The décor is definitely 45Hr-65Hr. It is a great place to hang out or bring your device “Late Brezhnev” with a very relaxing, casual atmosphere. and check your emails. Speaking English is natural there. =Open 11:00 - 23:00.>!) =Open 08:00 - 23:00. 6PDUWFDIp%LEOLRWHƏK G-3, Saksahanskoho 120, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 351 19 90, www. Dragee Café B-2, Lvivska ploscha, Zoloti Vorota, tel. bibliotech.com.ua. Here is a first. Instead of paying for (+380) 93 603 24 45, www.dragee.com.ua. Located in what one orders - simply pay for the time there. 36Hr for a cute little park right in the heart of Lvivska ploscha, this the 1st hour and 18Hr for each additional hour - or 72Hr for little café has a great though limited menu of European/ the whole day. From Monday-Friday the 1st hour is 18Hr Italian cuisine. A meal for 2 runs about 300Hr. and there are before 16:00. So what does one get for this? Plenty! Free specialties that change weekly. There is a 30% discount for coffee, tea, and all the juice one can squeeze. There are all meals between 12:00-16:00 weekdays. From Thursdays cookies, sweets, and toast. Bring your own food if you to Saturdays there is a DJ that begins around 20:00 and it’s want or order from Dominos Pizza and get a discount. a real party atmosphere. =Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat There are X-boxes, table football, ping pong, and a photo 10:00 - 02:00.#&) copier/scanner - all for free. There is also a “seminar” Galytskyi Shtrudel H-3, Saksahans’koho 18, tel. room where different workshops are held. =Open (+380) 44 287 07 33. A nice homey-type place where you 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.#!) can eat all kinds of strudel. There are 12 of the sweet variety Tsyferblat B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 49A, tel. (+380) 63 and 12 savoury ones. The contents change from time to 745 44 34. Not too easy to find as it is located in the back time. One can even see them being made through a kitchen parking area. This is one of those “Pay for Time” places window! The décor is classic Ukrainian and it seats about that are becoming quite popular in Kyiv. One pays by the 45. The idea of the eatery stems from an Austrian who made hour; the first hour is 30Hr and each additional hour is strudels for his wife in Lviv in the 1800’s, and then opened 15Hr. There is unlimited coffee, tea, and snacks. There is a place to sell them. You don’t need a menu as you can look WiFi, books, and lots of “table games” available. They even and point-the staff speak English and can help you. =Open have fresh editions of Wall Street Journal,The Times, The 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Herald Tribune etc. =Open 11:00 - 23:00. #!)

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com NIGHTLIFE 33 Bars & Pubs Bibique Bar H-3, Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v 2, tel. (+380) Kyiv Nightlife Scene 44 383 80 86. We had the address so we knew we were close, yet even the café 10 meters away had never heard of Kyiv is much more of a club city than a bar town. There it. It turns out – they never got around to putting up a sign. By is a bar and club scene at the heart of the city centre, chance, we opened a heavy metal door and there we were-like but don‘t be surprised if you encounter more of your own going into another dimension as the décor is “New York Loft”. countrymen than Ukrainians in these establishments. There is a great limited menu with European and American It can be difficult to find an empty table on weekends, dishes with such items as salads, meats, fish, burgers, and especially when many popular expatriate hangouts offer fries. The prices are very reasonable averaging from 45-65Hr drink specials at peak hours. On weekends and holidays, per dish. They have a great bartender known for his special the main street of Khreschatyk is closed to automobile cocktails. Good music is played always and on Wednesdays traffic, making it Kyiv‘s most active scene for nightlife, people-watching, or a casual stroll. For something a little and Fridays there is a DJ. Open 12:00 - 03:00. #% = more active and exciting, jazz and techno dance clubs are Dorothy’s Pub A-5, Saksahans’koho 16/43, L’va just as busy now as any time of the year. Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 05 30. The sign out front read If you are familiar with the club scene in other parts of Europe, “Dorothy’s Pub”. (Cue The Twilight Zone theme song.) Have I been you will feel at home with the loud atmosphere, overpriced transported back to my native state of Utah? The scenes of Monu- drinks, and relatively high entrance fees of Kyiv’s nightclubs. ment Valley and Arches National Park, the Osmonds glaring at me A few differences you might note are the availability of from the menu with their cheesy Colgate smiles and the sweet hookah (Middle Eastern flavoured tobacco), professional smell of Western American style barbecue creeping out from under dance or model shows, and it is socially acceptable for the saloon doors are all eerily familiar. Or am I in Kyiv? No. It couldn’t men to dance with each other. Guys, be wary of the young, be. The service here is far too good for Kyiv. Where am I? And who attractive women some clubs hire to entice foreign men to the hell is Dorothy? As it turns out, I am in Kyiv, and Rod Serling spend money on champagne, overpriced dinners and drinks. is not sitting next to me munching on ribs, nor is he sipping on a Czech beer, nor is he sampling the Turkish style calamari, but if he were still alive I’m sure he would not object to such a wonderful Pivbar Beer & Beef C-4, Globus Shopping Mall - 2nd mishmash of sites, sounds and flavours. And who is Dorothy? No part, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 99 044 33 one seemed to know. (Cue more Twilight Zone theme song.) Great 34, www.piv-bar.com.ua. This is a great beer bar right in specials! =Open 11:00 - 05:00.#% the centre of town with room for 200. There are all sorts of Fun Bar Banka A-4, L’va Tolstoho 11/61, Lva Tol- beer - the specialty being beer in a jar with a dry-salted fish to stoho, tel. (+380) 44 458 25 25, www.bankabar.com. accompany it. They have a great limited menu - the special is ua. As the name implies – it is a fun bar – we saw lots of their assorted grill – unlimited meat for just 139Hr. Definitely students there. The décor is unique with lots of Campbell worth it! On Friday there is a DJ, and Saturday and Sunday Soup posters on display. They serve great food as well! It there is a live rock group. =Open 12:00 - 01:00.#) is European menu – in English with an average meal cost- Radio Bar A-5, H-3, Rustaveli 12, Palats Sportu, ing about 150Hr. The Business Lunch is great for just 44Hr tel. (+380) 44 383 21 21. It is not called Radio Bar to be weekdays from 12-16. =Open 12:00 - 01:00. cool or chic, but because it actually is used to broadcast Golden Gate Irish Pub B-3, Zolotovorits’ka 15, live programs on Kyiv Europa Plus 107FM. It is located in a Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 51 88, www.karta. basement not far from Palace Sport Metro Station and holds ua. This is a true Irish Pub with the largest selection of draught around 180 people. There is live music most nights from beer in Kyiv. The menu has special beer appetisers. There 20:00. They have a great cocktail list, and lots of beer. The are darts, a billiard room, big screen TVs for sports fans, limited menu offers Italian type food, pasta & pizza and tasty and live music every Friday and Saturday. Golden Gate offers burgers too! Burgers run about 72 Hr and a complete meal will business lunch on weekdays and breakfast at the weekend. run around 150 Hr. =Open 10:00 - 12:00.#) =Open 11:00 - 01:00.#&' (*% Sunduk C-3, I-2, Mykhailivs’ka 16, Maidan Nezalezh- Lucky Pub A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 13, L’va Tolstoho, nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 14 65. The main features of tel. (+380) 44 499 13 13, www.karta.ua. Lucky hasn’t been this classic pub are the pleasant wooden interior and bill open for long, but it’s already proven a big hit with travellers, transactions made via a treasure chest. In spite of a no- expats and locals alike. This is arguably the finest sports viewing ticeable attempt to copy Western styles in the interior, the venue in the city. We went on the night of a critical World Cup music is very Eastern. The dishes and drinks listed on the qualifying match and the place was booked solid. Eleven LCDs menu are not necessarily present in the kitchen. Neverthe- are strategically placed throughout the pub, 12 types of beer are less, if you plan to arrive after 18:00, it would be better to on tap and the fare is familiar, delicious and reasonably priced. reserve a table beforehand and prepare for being consumed We joined a group of rowdy Brits in the football room and had a by cigarette smoke even in the room for non-smokers. splendid time. Live music goes from 21:00 - 01:00 Thursday - =Open 11:00 - 23:00.# Saturday. Open 11:00 - 01:00. = # * Trolleybus Pub B-4, H-2, Prorizna 21, Zoloti Vorota, Naturlih Pub B-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 3, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 279 34 34, www.trallebus.com. It’s more tel. (+380) 44 279 79 29, www.naturlih.com.ua. The than a pub-restaurant; it’s a shrine to “trolley buses”! It’s not most striking feature of Naturlih is it amazing selection of draft far from the “Golden Gate” and contains memorabilia galore beer - one of the grandest we’ve come across in Kyiv. Have the along with old photos of trolley buses and depicting the barman pull you a top German, Dutch, Czech, English, Belgian, glorious days of the Soviet Union. There is also a display of Irish or local brewski, then sit back and watch the bustling “carpet paintings” and lots of souvenirs. There is seating for hordes hike up historic Khmel’nts’koho street from the cosy 100 which includes a covered terrace and a VIP section. The view inside. The pub/restaurant offers scrumptious menu items cuisine is Ukrainian and European with the speciality being to go with the suds including German style sausages, pasta, their “hot pots”, lots of different beer, and a large selection pizza and classy euro dinner items. The spacious halls and of cocktails. An average meal will run around 100Hr. There is laid-back atmosphere are conducive for conversations. =Open a business lunch weekdays from 12:00-15:00 for just 45Hr. 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00.#*) =Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00.#*) kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 34 NIGHTLIFE

Docker’s ABC B-4, Khreschatyk 15/4A, Khres- Clubs chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 278 17 17, en.docker.com.ua. Arena Entertainment B-5, I-3, Basseina 2A, L’va There aren’t many venues which encourage their customers Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 492 00 00, www.arena-kiev. to dance on the table, but Docker ABC is just that! This com/eng. This venue was the official hangout for Eurovision Rock n’ Roll joint is a lively raucous affair where bands play 2005 participants. It is an entertainment complex accom- to an enthusiastic crowd determined to dance and flirt until modating several bars and a night club under one roof. In sunrise. All manner of cocktails are available at reasonable any case, you may wind up your night out in the night club prices, and the service is warm and friendly. This is a café partying untill dawn. = Open: restaurant and Beer House and bar during the day and a night club in the evenings. The 09:00 - 04:00, Sport-Bar 12:00 - 04:00, night club Tue - Sun menu, in both English and German languages, is of European 22:00 - 06:00.#"  and Ukrainian cuisine. Live music with a dock style interior. =Open 12:00 - 06:00.#& Art Club 44 B-4, H-3, Khreschatyk 44, Khreshatyk, tel. (+380) 279 41 37. The legendary Kyiv cellar on Khres- D*Lux Entertainment C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 3, chatyk has, after extensive remodeling, reopened for busi- Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 200 90 91, ness. Among the noticeable changes are the prices, plasma www.dlux.com.ua. A Spacious, huge complex with a 2 story monitors and a big screen projector. But that is neither here disco, lounge bars with live music, 2 terrace-restaurants, and nor there. The fact of the matter is, that this is one of the a gift shop. Well known DJ’s perform with PJ’s (go-go dancers). only joints in Kyiv where the music is raw, loud and saturated The staff was friendly and English speaking. The menu is in with adrenaline. Over the years, 44 has become a favourite English, not so large and not so cheap. Entrance (for parties for artists, musicians, writers and pseudo-intellectuals. Don’t only) is 200Hr for men and 100Hr for women. A strict dress let the aesthetic changes disorient you. Head for the well, and code; smart, casual, is strictly enforced. Disco is from 00:00- choose from the offering of more than 15 varieties of beer. 06:00. =Open 12:00 - 06:00.#& *%) =Open 10:00 - 02:00.  ůR\RWH 8JO\ B-6, Mechnikova 9A, Klovska, tel. Azhur A-4, H-2, Leontovycha 3, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 280 06 78, www.coyoteuglysaloon.com/ (+380) 44 234 74 94, fax (+380) 44 278 50 05, www. kiev. Coyote Ugly Saloon is a famous bar in the United States avalon.ua. This stereo disco club is a real diamond of Kyiv and is now in 13 locations across the country. Coyote Ugly also night life. The best music from the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s pro- has bars in Russia, Germany, and Romania. The Coyote Ugly vides a bright and dazzling atmosphere. The Beetles, Elvis Saloon officially opened its doors in Kiev on July 10, 1993. It Presley, Marilyn Monroe, Lisa Minnelli, the Rolling Stones, and is a club whose simple theme is to combine beautiful women the Doors songs guarantee an unforgettable night in this club. and large amounts of alcohol-which Ukraine has plenty of! It is a =Open 20:00 - 06:00.#" *% very large club catering to a young crowd mostly in their 20’s & early 30’s. With the latest disco hits played. There are various Boom Boom Room G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bulv. 33, party themes and guest DJ’s nearly every week when there is Universytet, tel. (+380) 95 514 88 88, www.boom- an entrance fee, otherwise it is free entrance. They even their boomroom.com.ua. Boom Boom Room has gotten the repu- own brand of whiskey and a gift shop with a limited range of tation of being “the after party place” in Kyiv. People go there underwear, clothing, and souvenirs. A great place to dance the when other places closed. It’s called a Night & Day Club as it is night away. =Open 20:00 - 06:00.# ) sometimes open to mid-morning. First impression is stunning! The design is “Neon” and covers two large dance floors. There is Sorry Babushka G-2, Dmytrivs’ka 18/24, Univer- good music and good DJ’s. The atmosphere is relaxed - none of sytet, tel. (+380) 44 486 03 00, www.sorrybabushka. the snobbish type visit here-mostly students and young adults. com.ua. Out with the old and in with the new! This club has There are some excellent cocktails - at moderate prices. (No elbowed into the space formerly occupied by the once popular food!) There is no entrance, but one must register on Facebook. Sound Planet. Very few changes have actually been made to the Once approved, one is put on a list and notified. There is still a new club’s interior, but with a completely overhauled concept, strict dress code to pass upon entering. We took this to mean Babushka has become an immediate hit among the capital’s face profiling. =Open 23:00 - 08:00.#*) clubbers. On the first floor you’ll find karaoke, the second floor spins 80’s and 90’s and disco until your platforms cave in on .%7 the third floor. There’s a karaoke tournament every Wednes- City Beach Club Zima 2-A, 2-G, Vorovskoho 24, day - the winner receives a DVD player. Other special offers Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 67 507 55 51, citybeach- can be found throughout the week at Babushka’s Vnuchata club.kiev.ua. We walked in expecting to see pools and (grandchildren’s) Party. =Open 22:00 - 05:00.# bikinis. Instead, we found a restaurant in one part and a disco/karaoke room in the other. It is very spacious with a black-stylish décor. The food is excellent with such items as Adult entertainment roast Duck in wine and fig sauce for just 195Hr. An average Miatniy Nosorog strip-bar (Mint Rhinoceros) H-4, meal runs about 400Hr and there is a business lunch from Chervonoarmiys’ka 111/113, Palats Ukraina, tel. 12:00-17:00 for 80Hr. There is Karaoke nightly from 21:00. (+380) 44 529 20 00. A cosy little place that hosts as many There is a disco with a DJ Fridays through Sundays. Everyone as 40 people. There are 8 private tables, Indian décor with was friendly and spoke great English. =Open 10:00 - 24:00, plastered illustrations from Kamasutra, a bar and European Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.#) cuisine. Beer costs 15-20Hr. Main dishes are around 40Hr. Ad- Disco Radio Hall I-1, Moskovskyi prosp. 32, tel. (+380) missions: Fri-Sat 70Hr, Sun-Thu 50Hr. =Open 20:00 - 06:00. 44 428 73 88, www.disco-club.kiev.ua. This fashionable Solid Gold B-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 5, 2nd floor, L’va nightclub is wedged in the hull of a floating entertainment Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 494 09 14, www.solidgold.ua. complex that also houses a karaoke club and a Japanese res- Recently opened gentlemen club offers its visitors cosy, stylish taurant. It attracts some of Kyiv’s hipper residents including interior and amazing shows. Except for the main hall, the club local celebrities. Well-known DJs and many exciting live acts offers a VIP lounge and Chill out zone. Solid Gold is located on fill the club’s docket. Tables can be reserved for 300-1000Hr, the 2nd floor of Arena Entertainment Centre. Reserve a table and an admission fee applies. =Open 22:00 - 06:00. Closed in advance, especially on weekends. =Open 20:00 - 06:00. Mon, Tue. Admission 50-80Hr for males, 50-60Hr for females. Admission 100Hr for men, 150Hr for women.# Sun is free for females.#  Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com WHAT TO SEE 35

Kyiv’s sightseeing to-do list is topped by its famous gold- tary supply knowing that the domed churches and cathedrals, magnificent sanctuaries interest generated by such of worship that impress with their history and art. Since an unusual home would everybody needs souvenirs to take home, God kindly pay-off. Ahead of its time, created Andriivs’kyi uzviz. Next are the city’s museums, the design makes full use of historical monuments, and finally a wonderful open-air the uneven Kyiv landscape: museum on the edge of the city limits. Three stories rise on one side and six descend the hill on the other. The interior Essential Kyiv design was also considered Andrew’s Descent C-2, radically modern, and in- Kontraktova Ploscha. cluded an ice room for food This is without a doubt one storage, a wine cellar, a of Kyiv’s oldest and most laundry room, a garage for horse drawn carriages and even a beloved streets. In ancient special room for Horodecki’s cow. This insured fresh milk for times it linked the admin- breakfast, lunch and dinner. Shrouded in mystery and legend, istrative part of the upper this place continues to intrigue visitors. By now (December town with Podil, the lower 2013), Bankova street is closed due to the protests in Kyiv. town of merchants and arti- Independence Square sans. This steep and winding C-4, Maidan Nezalezh- cobblestone lined descent is nosti. Kyiv’s central square a traditional venue for out- has undergone major door festivals and fairs, and is dotted with numerous intriguing changes in recent years, art galleries, museums, cafés, bars and restaurants. Being both above and below at the very heart of the city’s art community, the street is a ground. The square is lo- favourite stop for tourists in search of paintings and traditional cally referred to as “The Big Ukrainian crafts. This is also a well-known repository for all Greenhouse.” That’s not a souvenirs tacky and/or Soviet. Artisans come out in full force botanical compliment but on weekends and big holidays. The intriguing building at N°15 rather an indictment of the is referred to by Kyivites as “Richard’s Castle.” It is currently Globus Shopping Centre’s under reconstruction, but no worries...a hidden gem is around glassy domes. Throughout Soviet times, October Revolution back. Head down the street, and to the right you’ll find a steep, Square, as it was known, featured a daunting Lenin statue. twisting flight of iron steps. Those with calf muscles tough Despite the seemingly constant modifications, Maidan has enough to conquer the climb are rewarded with a command- been the city’s epicentre for generations. In 2004, it gained ing vantage point above Podil and the Dnipro. The Bulgakov world notoriety for staging the events of the Orange Revolu- Museum is a must visit for literary enthusiasts, and is located tion. Images of the square circulated the globe for weeks as at N°13. At the bottom of the hill, turn left to Kontraktova Ukrainians from all walks of life changed/delayed the course ploscha or right to reach Sahaidachnoho vul., an oasis for of Ukrainian history. On November 21, 2013 the rallies has connoisseurs and coffee lovers. started in Kyiv and other cities following the government’s Golden Gate B-3, decision to stop European Union integration by rejecting an Volodymyrs’ka 40, association agreement. After the police crackdown on the Zoloti Vorota, tel. Euromaidan, thousands and thousands of people gathered (+380) 44 234 70 68. to stand for their rights. Zoloti Vorota, one of the Khreschatyk B-4/5, most unique architectural/ C-4, Khreschatyk. archaeological sites in Kyiv, From its start at Europe- reopened in 2007 after a an Square to its terminus lengthy reconstruction. The at Bessarabs’ka Square, remains of ancient Kyiv’s Kyiv’s most beloved street main gate were originally is not even two kilometres constructed during the long. Despite what has height of the Kyivan Rus, and are included on the UNESCO been called the most im- World Heritage list. Painstakingly planned by historians and pressive unbroken string architects, the bright new construction that entombs the of Stalinist architecture ancient walls is considered an exact replica of the original anywhere, Khreschatyk’s gate. From the platforms, the views of Volodymys’ka vul. and wide chestnut lined sidewalks are ideal for a relaxing stroll. surrounding area are stunning enough to justify the price of The trees provide both welcome shade from the blistering admission. =Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00. Closed summer sun and shelter from the region’s signature spring Mon. 15Hr for adults, 8Hr for children and students. downpours. On weekends and holidays, the street becomes House With Chimeras C-5, Bankova 10, Khres- a pedestrian only thoroughfare where locals, travellers and chatyk. Built more than a century ago by eccentric Kyivite street performers mingle and frolic. It’s hard to imagine that Wladislaw Horodecki, this is the most unique structure in this was once a deep valley surrounded by dense forest. The Kyiv. Sophisticated architectural forms are buried beneath valley was named Khreschata (crossed) in reference to the the phantasmal figures of Horodecki’s dreams. The el- many ravines that converged in the area. In ancient times, ephant trunk storm drains, rhinos, antelope, gigantic frogs, Kyivan Rus princes hunted wild game here (the only hunting mermaids and other figures are constructed of cement, a done on Khreschatyk these days is for souvenirs, fashion state-of-the-art material back in the 19th century. A local and fashionable Ukrainian women). Some of the city’s best cement factory owner provided Horodecki with a complimen- shopping can be found both above and below ground. Trendy malls have been dug beneath Bessarabs’ka and Maidan kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 36 WHAT TO SEE

Nezalezhnosti. Perhaps in an act of poetic justice the whole glorify Christianity. It was named after the famous St. Sophia’s street will collapse under this retail strain and revert back Cathedral in Constantinople. This majestic 13-cupola sanctu- to a lush valley. By the time we go to print with this issue, ary adjoined Yaroslav’s Palace and became a holy place of Khreschatyk is occupied by the Euromaidan protesters. worship for Kyivites as well as a political and cultural centre. St. Andrew’s Church Today the entire complex is protected by Ukraine, and also C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 23, receives support from UNESCO. The 18th century refectory Kontraktova Ploscha, works as a museum and contains archaeological artefacts tel. (+380) 44 278 58 and architectural displays, such as models depicting Kyiv 61. Famous Italian architect as it looked before being razed by Mongol invaders in 1240. Bartolomeo Rastrelli was It costs a meagre 3Hr to enter the grounds. To enter the the mastermind behind this cathedral itself, purchase tickets from the kiosk around the attractive Baroque church corner from the bell tower entrance. As you exit don’t forget to that greets the throngs at pose for the postcard - perfect picture with Cossack leader the top of Andriivs’kyi uzviz. Bohdan Khmelnyts’kyi on his horse against the backdrop of Built in 1754, it’s one of the St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Cathedral. Guided tours in English rare buildings in Kyiv that has are available (80 - 100Hr). =Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 managed to avoid serious damage or reconstruction. The el- - 17:00. Closed Thu. Admission 50Hr for all exhibits for adults, egant silhouette of its one large dome and five lesser cupolas 20Hr for children and students. Entrance to the Bell Tower are easily visible from Podil and beyond. Apostle Andrew, who costs 10Hr/6Hr. Entrance to the Catherdral’s area costs 3Hr. was the first Christian to preach the gospel in Kyivan Rus, was St. Volodymyr’s Cathe- said to have erected a cross on this very site. It was the wish dral A-4, T.Shevchenka of Peter the Great’s religiously-minded daughter, Elizabeth, bul’v. 20, Universytet, after her visit to Kyiv in 1744 that this church be built. It must tel. (+380) 44 35 53 85. be said that compared to the beautiful exterior, the interior is The Cathedral was built from rather disappointing - too much loud red and gold colours and 1862-1882 in a so called really not much to see. Console yourself with a stroll around Russian pseudo-Byzantine the church’s perimeter, a walk which the famous Ukrainian style. The frescos inside writer Gogol also enjoyed. =Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. were made by famous Rus- St. Michael’s Golden- sian, Ukrainian and Polish Domed Cathedral C-3, artists, such as Vasnetsov, Mykhailivs’ka ploscha, Nesterov, Vrubel, Pymonenko Maidan Nezalezhnosti, and Svedomsky. The church belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox tel. (+380) 44 279 22 48. denomination. =Open 06:00 - 19:30. Services are held daily at St. Michael’s Cathedral is 08:00 and 17:00. Sat, Sun at 7:00, 10:00 and 17:00. located opposite St. Sophia’s Motherland J-4, Ivana Cathedral. The original, built Mazepy 44, Arsenal’na. by Prince Sviatopolk in 1108, An enormous stainless steel was destroyed by the Soviet statue of a fierce female regime in the 1930s for hav- warrior (68 m high, standing ing “no historical value.” The on a 40 m pedestal and reconstructed cathedral was completed in May 2000. Its sky holding a 12-ton sword in blue exterior and glittering golden domes add a stunning layer to a her right hand and a shield cityscape that has become a mix-mash of crumbling ancient and in the left) dominates the newly reconstructed. A sobering reminder of Stalin’s inhumane heights above the Dnipro policies stands to the right as you exit the church grounds. This River. Giant, threatening is a monument to the victims of Holodomor (starvation): A famine and inescapable, the statue orchestrated in part by the Soviet leadership in an attempt to is known locally as ‘Brezhnev’s Mother’, as L. Brezhnev squash the peasantry, as many as 10 million Ukrainians perished opened the monument in 1981. Below the statue there is from 1932-33. Keeping watch over the square are the recon- a worth visiting museum of the Great Patriotic War and the structed statues of Princess Olga, Apostle Andrew, St. Cyrill and military exhibition. St. Mephodius. After the police violently break up Euromaidan early morning 30 November 2013, St Michael's Cathedral and Museums the square in front of it became the centre of the protests. For the time we go to print, it is still serves as one of the Euromaidan Bulgakov Museum C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 13, Kon- areas. =Open 08:00 - 19:00. Services held daily at 08:00 and traktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 31 88/(+380) 17:00, and on Sundays at 08:00, 10:00, 17:00. 67 493 45 25, bulgakov.org.ua. The celebrated Russian writer Mikhail Bulgakov lived in this house from 1906-1916 St. Sophia’s Cathe- and again from 1918-1919. It was here that he wrote the dral B-3, Volodymyrs’ka novel The White Guard and the play Days of Turbins. The 24, Zoloti Vorota, tel. old Bulgakov family home is now home to the Bulgakov Mu- (+380) 44 279 22 56. seum, which displays the author’s personal things and family Kyiv’s oldest standing church, photos. =Open 10:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 17:00. Closed St. Sophia’s was built in 1037 Wed. Admission 30Hr. Excursion (up to 15 persons) - 100Hr. by Prince Yaroslav the Wise, FC Dynamo Kyiv museum at NSC Olimpiyskiy who incidentally was laid to A-6, Velyka Vasylkivska 55, tel. (+380) 44 597 00 rest inside. He commissioned 15/(+380) 44 597 00 16. The museum was founded on the project to commemorate 14 April, 2012. The exposition includes many FC Dynamo the site of a victory of Kyivan Kyiv trophies from over 85 years of football history, photo Rus over the Pechenegs archives and some very unique trophies. (Asian nomadic tribes) and to Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com WHAT TO SEE 37

Ivan Honchar’s Museum, Ukrainian Centre of Folk Art J-4, Ivana Mazepy 29, Arsenal’na, tel. Chernobyl (+380) 44 288 92 68/(+380) 44 288 54 19, www. honchar.org.ua. The Museum was founded in September 1993 and is based on Ivan Honchar’s (1911-1993) private collection. During the Soviet period he was accused of na- tionalism. All those who manifested interest in his collection were registered with the KGB. The collection represents the “Ukrainahood” of the 17-20th centuries and has 15 000 pieces. The centre piece of Honchar’s collection are the folk pictures, the inventive hero “Mamai Cossack” is espe- cially popular. Also impressive is the elaborate collection of clothes from the 18-19th centuries (2500 samples) as well as pottery art exhibits (630 plates, dishes, crockery and zoomorphic ceramic toys). =Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 15Hr, 3Hr for children. Kyiv Fortress Museum A-6, Hospital’na 24A, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 01 46. This part of the city’s for- tifications was built in 1844. Arguably, this structure’s history has more do with defenseless people rather than defending people. It was here that supporters of the Tsar carried out executions of political prisoners, including the leaders of a Polish rebellion, in the 1860s. At the beginning of the 20th century, participants in a revolt of the Kyiv Pioneer Regiment met the same fate. Also during this time, ammunition and It’s not every trip abroad you have the chance to visit weapons were stored in this semi-underground fortress with the site of the world’s worst nuclear accident, is it? The solid brick and stone walls. =Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant is only about a two-hour - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14Hr. ride north of Kyiv. Travel agencies offer a day trip to the region, wisely realising that the market for overnight stays Museum of Modern Ukrainian Fine Arts Collection is not great. You can actually enter the contaminated zone, D-2, Hlybochyts’ka 17, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. where you’ll be joined by your English-speaking guide, who (+380) 44 463 76 69, modern-museum.org.ua. On the will show you the fateful reactor N°4 (from a safe distance). 17th of June 2005 the first Museum of Modern Art of Ukraine You’ll also visit the nearby ghost town of Pripyat - where has hospitably greeted its visitors. First it was founded in a some apartments still bear witness to the haste in which historical part of Kyiv, but in December 2009 the Museum 47,500 residents were made to leave their homes - and moved to a new three-stories building at Glybochytska 17. have a chance to converse with residents of surrounding Sufficient room (about 3.5 thousand square metres) enabled villages who refused to move. A trip to the acres of fields the creation of the first independent exposition of the best filled with contaminated vehicles, helicopters, etc. used works in the collection (it is located on the second and third in the cleanup is optional. And in case you’re wonder- floors of the Museum). The exposition is to be changed every two years. Today the Museum displays collections of ing, yes, your body will receive above-average doses of ancient Ukrainian icons, classics of Ukrainian painting of the radiation throughout the day, but the effects are said to beginning of the 20th century, Ukrainian art of realism and be harmless... If you are not convinced, you can satisfy VRFLRUHDOLVPRIWKHVHFRQGKDOIRIWKHŵŵFHQWXU\DUHZLGHO\ your curiosity in radiation free environment: The National represented here as well as the works by underground art- Museum of Chernobyl. ists of 1960-1970s. There are also available two exhibition National Museum of Chernobyl (Natsional’nyi halls for temporary displays (the entire 1st floor and the small muzey Chornobyliu) D-1, Khorevyi prov. 1, Kon- exhibition hall of the third floor). There is a functioning library traktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 54 27. This in the Museum; theoretically-practical activities take place in museum does an excellent job of actually making you feel a lecture hall: master-classes, lections, seminars, round-table like you are at the site of the infamous nuclear accident. discussions, conferences with invited Ukrainian and foreign Road signs from towns and villages near Chernobyl greet art-scholars, artists and gallerists. =Open 11:00 - 19:00. you as you ascend the stairs, and as you descend the Closed Mon. Admission 20Hr, for students 10Hr. signs are crossed out to signify your departure. It’s usu- Museum of Russian Art A-4, Tereschenkivs’ka 9, ally rather empty, but then again so is the contamination Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 234 62 18, www.kmrm. zone. A few exhibits could be a bit scary for kids, such com.ua/eng. Outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg, one as life-sized costumes with gas masks and pictures of of the largest collections of Russian art is housed here. The deformed animals. Audio-guide is available in English, Ger- building belonged to the upper-class Tereschenko family and man, Russian and Ukrainian. =Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat was built in the 1880s. Private artworks confiscated and 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10Hr, children 3Hr. nationalised by the Soviets along with the Tereschenkos’ holdings formed the bulk of the museum’s exhibits when it Chernobyl Tours was opened in 1922. The most prized displays are a collec- tion of exceptional Russian icons dating back to the late 13th Prime Excursion Bureau D-1, Schekavyts’ka 30/39, century. The museum features artwork from many famous suite 4, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 227 Russian painters such as I. Repin, M. Vrubel and N. Rerikh, as 77 78/207 12 55/0 99 550 00 00, info@primetour. well as sculptures, handicraft and graphics. Kids should be ua, www.primetour.ua. =Open 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun kept on a tight rein as the staff can be rude if little people get 10:00 - 18:00 too close to exhibits. =Open Tue, Fri 11:00 - 19:00, Wed, Sat, Mysterious Kyiv tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, tour@ Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Thu. Admission 30Hr, 10Hr interesniy.kiev.ua, www.mysteriouskiev.com. for students, 5Hr for children. English tours 250Hr. =Open 10:00 - 19:00. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 38 WHAT TO SEE

Museum of the Great Patriotic War J-4, Lavrs’ka 24, Pyrohovo Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 285 94 52, www.warmu- seum.kiev.ua. This World War II memorial complex, which opened in 1981, includes a museum with 18 different galler- ies, an eternal flame, plaques honouring particularly heroic Soviet cities and an outdoor display containing military planes and other equipment from various wars. The centrepiece of it all is of course the massive titanium statue of a woman, 62m tall to be exact, grasping a 12-ton sword and a shield. Honouring Soviet defenders during World War II, its Socialist Realism style is an interesting contrast to the nearby ancient golden domes of Pechers’ka Lavra. =Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, 3Hr for students. 36 m view point - 50Hr, 91m view point - 200Hr. Folk Architecture and Life Museum Pyrohovo, marshrutkas #172 and 156 from, Lybids’ka, tel. National Art Museum C-5, M.Hrushevs’koho 6, (+380) 44 526 57 65/(+380) 44 526 25 27, nmnapu. Maidan Nezalezhosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 13 57, org.ua. There is a place in Kyiv where you can say “Let’s go to www.namu.kiev.ua. Built in the late 19th century in the the 16th century Carpathians” and then find yourself there in style of a Greek temple with a six-column portico designed a matter of minutes. No…we’re not offering you a ride in Doc by Kyiv architects Horodets’kyi and Boytsov, valuable col- Brown’s Delorean time machine. It’s Pyrohovo - a picturesque lections largely unknown to Western visitors are contained open-air museum of old Ukrainian lifestyle and folk culture. in the museum’s 21 galleries. Pieces include Ukrainian icons, The museum is divided into areas representing different paintings, and sculptures from the 14th century through the regions of Ukraine. The clay huts roofed with thatch or early 20th century. Works of revered artist and poet Taras wooden shingles and the archaic barns and wells recreate Shevchenko, M.Pymonenko, K.Kostandi and H.Narbut are an authentic village atmosphere. Everything is meant to some of the highlights of the museum. Open Wed, Thu, Sun bring you back to the Ukraine of 16th to 19th centuries. = At Pyrohovo you will find wooden churches, windmills, 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed and even a school building typical of rural areas from Mon, Tue. Admission 20Hr, 10Hr for students, 5Hr for children. recent centuries. Different kinds of structures (water- National History Museum C-2, Volodymyrs’ka 2, mills, forges, cattle-sheds “shopa”, granaries “komora”, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 29 24. Located on threshing floors, “stodola” for storing cereals, apiaries, a bluff above Andriivs’kyi uzviz, this museum carries forth hen houses, cellars and wells) will tell you the story of on a wide range of topics concerning Ukraine’s history from how folks lived in Ukraine centuries ago. If everything at prehistoric times up to the present day. There are extensive the museum seems very authentic, that’s because it collections of old books, coins and bills, works of art and archae- really is. Most of the buildings are in fact original and were moved here piece by piece from villages all over Ukraine. logical and ethnographical findings. Behind the museum is a From the main entrance, the road leads you across a path that leads to a wonderful view from Old Kyiv’s highest point large wheat field to the Middle Prydniprovia sector with overlooking the lower town of Podil. =Open 10:00 - 16:45. the Church of the Great Martyn, Saint Paraskeva Friday Closed Wed. Admission 24Hr, 12Hr for students and children. (Cherkassy region, 1742), the small Church of the Arch- The Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Museum of angel Michael (1601), and a unique collection of windmills Arts A-4, Tereshchenkivs’ka 15-17, L’va Tolstoho, tel. “vitriaky”. Next, on the hillside, you will come to the Podillia (+380) 44 235 02 06, www.khanenkomuseum.kiev.ua. sector with the Church of Saint Nicholas and a bell tower The house was owned by a famous collector of art and ben- from the beginning of the 19th century, brought here from efactor Bohdan Khanenko (1849-1917), and his wife Varvara the Husiatyn area. At the centre of the museum’s terri- tory the Poltavschyna and Slobozhanschyna complex is (1852-1922). In 1919, on the base of their private collection, arranged. A little farther on, visitors can see the Polissye a museum was opened in this house. For a long period of time sector dominated by the unique hip-roof Voskresens’ka it was known as Kyiv State Museum of Western and Eastern Church (Rivnenschyna, 17th-18th century). The exposition Art. Now its initial name has been given back. The embellish- of village huts (khatas) here is unique for their age (1587 to ments of the collection are works of outstanding Renaissance 1687). In the northern part of the museum, the Carpathian masters. Rich diversity of genres distinguishes the museum’s sector features scattered small farms, with the bell tower holdings of North European countries. The exposition of Span- of the ancient Pokrovs’ka Church rising above. ish art includes two true gems from the XVII century - “Portrait But wait till you get inside these huts! There you will find of Infant Margarita” by Diego Velasquez and “Still Life with stunning exhibitions of traditional Ukrainian clothing, ce- Chocolate Milk” by Juan de Zurbaran. =Open 10:30 - 17:30. ramics, household and farming equipment, and of course Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20-30Hr, 10Hr for students. the stove. This was the centrepiece of any khata, and was used for cooking, drying, heating and even sleeping. The National Museum “Memorial in Commemora- Pyrohovo is also a great park - a pleasant retreat with tion of Famines’ Victims in Ukraine” C-6, Lavrs’ka, plenty of space for playing games with kids or for a leisurely tel. (+380) 44 254 45 11, www.memorialgolodomors.org. afternoon in the shade of trees. If you want to get around During the whole existence of the Soviet Union regime Ukrainian faster, you may rent a bike or even hire a horseback ride. people endured horrible tragedies - famines of 1921-1922, And if you care for your spiritual well-being, visit the church 1932-1933, 1946-1947, which took millions of Ukrainian’s service on Sunday. Held in one of the museum’s beautiful lives. The worst humanitarian catastrophe of 20th century for ancient wooden churches, it is a real adventure for your soul. Ukraine was an artificially engineered by Stalin’s regime Famine Traditional fairs are organised at Pyrohovo in May and Sep- of 1932-1933, during which 3 941 000 people died. Museum tember, to mark the beginning and the end of the season. is dedicated to the victims of these awful tragedies. Excursions But don’t worry if you miss them. There are plenty of festivals are held every hour from 10:00. =Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed and celebrations going on at Pyrohovo the whole season. Mon. Admission 5Hr. Excursion in English 100r. Main national and religious holidays are celebrated here ac- cording to folk traditions. =Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission The One Street Museum C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 2B, 30Hr, 10Hr for students. English-speaking guides available. Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 03 98,

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com WHAT TO SEE 39 onestreet.kiev.ua. This fascinating little museum near the bottom of Andriivs’kyi uzviz tells the rich history of this Mamajeva Sloboda important street through the years. Special attention is paid to recreating the atmosphere of this thoroughfare during the Cossack’s Settlement turn of the 20th century. =Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Mamajeva Sloboda E-3, Admission 20Hr. English guided tours 150Hr. Dontsia 2, tel. (+380) The Pharmacy Museum D-2, Prytys’ko-Mykils’ka 7, 44 361 98 48/(+380) Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 24 37. You 063 782 78 31 (excur- may be wondering just how much enjoyment can be had out sions department), www. of a museum whose sole subject is the history of pharma- mamajeva-sloboda.ua. In ceuticals, but when you think of the vital role drugs play in the middle of XVII century the lives of the capitals legions of cold sufferers it becomes French engineer and cartog- clear that this cosy little museum is a must of social history. rapher Guillaume Le Vasseur de Beauplan said “Ukraina est The building is in great condition and dates back to 1728. Terra Cosacorum” (Ukraine is a Land of Cossacs). Almost =Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 15Hr, 10Hr for children. 400 years after in seven kilometres from the main street of Ukraine’s capital an open-air museum Mamajeva Sloboda The Spiritual Treasures of Ukraine C-3, Desiatynna Cossacs’ Village has been settled. The Cossack’s Sloboda 12, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 83 08. This with its 98 exhibition objects is located on the 9 hectares museum is the first private art museum in Ukraine. In bright and represent replicas of historical settlement depicting spacious halls of museum more than 300 first class works of Ukrainian nature and lifestyle of the old times. In just few Ukrainian icon-painters of 15th-19th centuries are presented steps from the main gate of the settlement (Tsarina) you from almost all regions from West to East of Ukraine and more feel yourself transferred into the Cossacks epoch of the than 100 iconograthical images and themes. The museum 17th - 18th centuries. Then after visiting the unique Cos- has also the collection of the works of the world-known sacks three-domed wooden church founded in the name Ukrainian painter Maria Prymachenko. 50 of her best works of Intercession of the Holy Virgin you’ll be treated as the of naive art are presented at the museum. =Open 11:00 most welcome visitor of the estates of a Churchwarden, a - 19:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission 15Hr, for children Potter, a Blacksmith, a Cossack-dzhura (Cossack armour and students 5Hr. bearer) and a Fortune-teller. We also can recommend Toys museum C-6, Klovs’kyi uzviz 8, Klovs’ka, tel. you to taste historical traditional dishes in their shynok (+380) 44 253 54 00. This museum is located on the (Ukrainian restaurant). =Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission ground floor of the State Centre of the out of School Educa- 100Hr. Excursions in English, German, French, Italian and tion. The first hall has collections of hand made dolls from a Spanish are available, but must be arranged in advance. variety of fairy tales; the second hall has authentic Ukrainian For 10 people and more excursion costs 130 Hr. dolls; and the third one presents Ukrainian history through the dolls’ history. The oldest dolls in the collection were made in the 1930s; the youngest were made just recently. Do not miss the first Ukrainian transformer among the collection of 10,000 City Tours toys. =Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10Hr, 5Hr for children,students.#& Horlytsia I-5, Velyka Kytaivska 10A, office 4, Lybids- ka, tel. (+380) 44 220 20 95 (working hours)/(+380) 97 Water Information Centre D-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 1C, 886 46 44 (out of working hours), [email protected], Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 53 33, www.horlytsia.com. Horlytsia invites all guest of Ukraine to www.aqua-kiev.info. Anyone strolling through Khreschatyi discover unforgettable beauty of Kyiv city and other hot-spot Park (behind European Square and The Philharmonic) will places around the country. Exciting sightseeing tours, interest- notice the two towers rising above the tree line. They host ing excursions, culinary trips, all kinds of travel services, all at a museum of water, which contains information on water very competitive prices. =Open 10:00 - 19:00.  resources: natural water circulation, potable water purifica- Mysterious Kyiv tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, tour@ tion, new technologies and water’s chemical components. interesniy.kiev.ua, www.interesniy.kiev.ua. Mysteri- Entering the centre you descend in an elevator to a depth of ous Kyiv propose exclusive tours on Secret Kyiv places, 20 meters and are confronted by fascinating exhibits. Admis- Kyiv Caves, Secret Stallin tunnels under Dnipro river, tours sion adults 15Hr, children and students 10Hr. =Open Wed, to Chernobyl Zone. Excursions in your language. Thu, Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25Hr, 20Hr children and students. NSC Olimpiyskiy Tours A-6, VelykaVasylkivska 55, tel. (+380) 44 590 66 96/(+380) 67 323 40 49, [email protected], www.nsc- Jewish Kyiv olimpiyskiy.com.ua. Take a tour and have a look behind With the beginning of Perestroika in 1985, Jewish communities the scenes of the largest stadium in Ukraine. Even for that had suffered under the Communist regime began to be those who cannot discern forward from goalkeeper, the become more active. Jewish leaders from all over the world tour will be really exciting, informative and interactive. came to Ukraine to restore religious structures and revive the The tours are conducted Wed, Fri, and Sat (11:00, 13:00, formerly oppressed communities. Brodsky Shul, the centre of 15:00, 17:00), and on Sun (11:00, 13:00, 15:00). Jewish religious and cultural life, is located in what used to be Open Kiev tel. (+380) 44 227 28 63, www.openkiev. the Jewish quarter near Palats Sportu. Across the street is the com.ua. Hop-on Hop-off daily sightseeing bus tours on open Great Kyiv Synagogue Community Centre, a multifunctional top double deckers. The first circle of the tour starts at 10:00 institution that unites the activities of the synagogue, humani- from the stop next to Maidan Nezalezhnosti. You can catch tarian aid projects, cultural and language education. Since the a bus on one of 25 stops around Kyiv, then take off at any Bolshevik Revolution, Jewish Ukrainians were oppressed in of them, have a stroll down Khreschatyk or any other and both their public and private lives. During the Great Patriotic catch the bus again. Buses go roughly every 20 minutes. War, as World war II is referred to here, Ukrainian Jews were Commentaries available in English, Russian and Ukrainian. executed by the thousands in western villages and cities. The =2-days ticket 250Hr, children 150Hr, under 7 for free. worst slaughter in Kyiv occurred at the Babiy Yar, meaning the kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 40 WHAT TO SEE

“Ravine of Women”, named so after the women who would Legendary stadiums visit soldiers stationed at this former lonely outpost of the Kyiv Russ. In 1943, 32,000 Jews were taken here by Nazi soldiers, Dynamo Sta- shot, and pushed by a bulldozer into the shallow ravine. The dium C-4/5, I-2, number of people killed there equals approximately one-third M.Hrushevskoho of the entire Jewish community of Kyiv today, and the park is 3, Maidan located within the city where the victims lived. The largest of Nezalezhnosti, the two memorials at the site is actually in the wrong place. tel. (+380) 44 After its construction, the sculptor built a small memorial where 279 02 09. After the people had actually been shot. There are plans to create a passing through museum and larger monument at Baba Yar, funded by various the white columns Jewish organisations from around the world. you’ll come to a Synagogue on Podyl D-1, Schekavyts’ka 19, Kon- monument hon- traktova Poscha. This synagogue was built in 1895 despite ouring the life of severe anti-Semitic oppression prevalent at the time. Local Valeriy Lobanovs- architect Nicolay Gardenik designed the synagogue, which had kyi, Dynamo’s fa- to be officially declared a private residence in order to avoid mous coach who died in May 2002. Lobanovskyi won problems with authorities. The decision to build was made by countless Soviet leagues and cups first as a player and the famous Kyiv patron of the arts Gabriel Jacob Rosenberg and then as coach, not to his mention his team’s two European Rabbi Yevsey Zuckerman, and was built for the parishioners of Cup-Winners Cup triumphs and a string of Ukrainian titles. 12 small Jewish meeting houses in Podil. In 1929 the building It’s ironic that he can now only be seen sitting still on a was nationalised and given to a small producers union. The bench, because his habit was always to rock back and structure survived World War II and reopened as a synagogue. forth between games. An even more poignant memorial It remained the city’s only working synagogue until 2000. is located closer to the stadium and to the left: depicted in Central Synagogue A-5, Shota Rustaveli 13, Palats stern granite are the four Dynamo players who were killed by Sportu. The Central Synagogue was built in 1898 by eminent occupying Nazis during WWII. Contrary to Soviet myth and Kyiv philanthropist Lazar Brodsky. This striking architectural many published materials, these players were not shot in monument served as a Jewish religious centre for nearly thirty their uniforms immediately after defeating a German side years until it was seized by the Soviet Union in 1926. For a short in a so-called ‘Death Match’. However, their team Start time it hosted a handicraft club, after which it was turned into a (consisting of players from Dynamo and other Soviet clubs) doll theatre. During the Nazi occupation, Germans used the syna- did defeat a team of German soldiers called Flakelf in August gogue as a stable for Wermacht horses. The building was returned 1942 - in fact they did it twice in 72 hours by scores of 5-1 to the Jewish community after the fall of the Soviet Union. Despite and 5-3. Only weeks later were N.Korotkykh, N.Trusevich, the serious damage that resulted from 70 years of neglect, the A.Klimenko and I.Kuzmenko arrested. Korotkykh, a NKVD hall was immediately opened to parishioners. Today a number (the precursor to the KGB) agent, was tortured and soon of Jewish educational, religious and cultural programs are held died, while the other three were executed in Febraury 1943 here. The Museum of Jewish Heritage is also housed within, and at the Syrets death camp. Regardless, the less-romanticized displays ancient books, candelabras, Menorahs and bas-reliefs. reality shouldn’t take away from the players’ heroism, em- Karaite Kenassa B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 7, Zoloti Vorota. bodied when they ignored orders and refused to give a Nazi This century-old building belongs to Kyiv Karaites, the Jewish salute prior to their last game. religious communion who lives according to the Old Testament and not the Talmud. A prominent Kyiv architect, Horodetsky, NSC Olimpiys- designed the building for Solomon Kohan, a tobacco magnate A-6, Velyka kiy and the head of the Karaite communion. It was opened in 1902. Vasylkivska 55, Elio Zola, an Italian architect, fashioned the interiors with imitation Olimpiyska, antique stone carving. He used the newest and most expensive tel. (+380) 44 material available at the time, cement. The building had the latest 590 66 96, ex- amenities: electricity, central heating and ventilation. During Soviet cursion@nsc- times the building was partially destroyed and it lost its dome. Now olimpiyskiy.com. it serves as a House of Artists and hosts various cultural events. ua, www.nsc- olimpiyskiy.com. Babyi Yar E-1, Dorogozhychy. The darkest page in the ua. This is a mul- history of Kyiv’s Jewish community was written during World War II. tifunctional sport Nazi Germany invaded Ukraine in June of 1941 and occupied Kyiv arena which holds by September. On September 29, Nazi commanders ordered all sport, cultural, Jews to meet on Dehtyarivs’ka street. At the time, a train station business, and many other events. It is the prime venue happened to be nearby and people naively assumed they were in Ukraine and the 8th largest football stadium in the world being deported. Almost to a man, the city’s Jews obeyed the order, with a total capacity of 83,450. The stadium was founded and were systematically marched off to Babyi Yar, a deep ravine in in 1923 and named after Lev Trotsky. During its almost 90 the woods. As the procession neared the edge of the city, naivety years history the stadium has been renamed 10 times. turned to terror. Like livestock through slaughterhouse gates, the The last reconstruction works lasted over 3 years and crowd was funnelled between rows of armed German soldiers. gave the stadium its modern and incredible appearance. Stripped of their possessions and human dignity, men, women The official opening took place on 11 October, 2011. In and children were lined up against the edge of the ravine and June 2012 the Stadium hosted matches of the European shot. Thirty-two thousand Jews were murdered in the massacre Football championship including the final game between of September 29-30. Altogether 100,000 people were executed Spain and Italy on 1 July, 2012. Apart from sport events, at Babyi Yar during the German occupation. The few survivors NSC Olimpiyskiy provides conference & banqueting facili- were later star witnesses at the Nuremberg Trials. After the war ties, catering, corporate & wedding photo shoot services. the ravine was filled with soil, and now Babyi Yar is a park with a number of stirring monuments devoted to those who perished. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com WHAT TO SEE 41

Lavra Lavra Museums & Exhibitions Museum of Historical Valuables J-3, Lavrska 9 (Lavra), Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 13 96, www. miku.org.ua. It is sure that the Louvre, the Hermitage, or the Prado would be happpy to have such a collection of Scythian gold as this museum. The gem of the collection is the so-called Pectoral, Scythian queen’s neck adornment from the 4th century B.C. The 1.4kg Pectoral was made of pure gold by a master craftman of the time. Despite its very old age the well-preserved detailing is amazing. The second most important valuable is the silver bowl unearthed from the Gaiman Barrow and kept in specially designed chamber filled with inert gas. This is far from all one can see in the nine halls of this museum. The treasures of Kyiv Rus, West European and Jewish ceremonial silverware, and works by the best Ukrainian jewelers of the past and present can all be found here. =Open Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra J-3, Lavrska 9 , Arsenal’na, 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Mon. Admission 30Hr, children 15Hr. tel. (+380) 44 280 30 71, www.kplavra.kiev.ua. This State Museum of Theatre, Music and Cinema Arts monastery made Kyiv the “Rome” of Orthodox Christianity of Ukraine J-3, Lavrska 9 , Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 and continues to attract pilgrims from around the world. Its 280 18 34. The museum was created in 1923. Here we can territory of 28ha contains not only churches, towers and an see the so-called ‘vertep’ (the Ukrainian puppet theatre of the underground cave system, but also some of Kyiv’s most 18th century), playbills and pictures of the plays of different interesting museums. Ukrainian theatre troupes and the personal effects of famous First about the name: In Ukrainian ‘pechera’ means ‘cave’, artists and musicians. =Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. while ‘Lavra’ is an Orthodox term given to its largest mon- Admission 15Hr, children and students 7Hr. astery. Founded in 1051 by monks Antony and Feodosiy, State Museum of Ukrainian Decorative Art J-3, Lavra was called to spread the newly-adopted Christian re- Lavrska 9 (Lavra), Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 ligion throughout Kyivan Rus. Monks worshipped, lived and 36 93. The original art of the Ukrainian people is widely were buried in caves, where a cool and humid atmosphere represented here: icons, decorated eggs, embroidery, cloth- enabled their bodies to mummify naturally. This “miracle” ing, pottery, glass, faience, etc. There are special displays further enhanced the monastery’s reputation. The monks’ devoted to the work of the famous artists Kateryna Bilokur bodies have been almost perfectly preserved to this day. and Mariya Pryimachenko. =Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed You can see for yourself by descending into the caves with Tue. Admission 20Hr, children 3Hr, students 5Hr, retirees 7Hr. a candle to lead the way. Of particular interest are those Ukrainian State Museum of Books and Printing monks so humble that they only allowed their feet to be J-3, Lavrska 9 (Lavra), Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 exposed. Women are required to wear scarves, which are 280 22 10, bookmuseum-ua.livejournal.com. The mu- provided if you don’t have your own. English tours can be seum is located in the space formerly occupied by the Lavra arranged at the ticket kiosk or with nice old ladies inside typography, which was built in the 18th century. The collection the entrance. includes manuscript volumes from the times of Kyivan Rus, Lavra became a leading religious and cultural focal point the first Ukrainian printed editions of the Lviv ‘Apostle’ (1574) of Eastern Europe in the 12th century. Studios for icon by Ivan Fedorov (Ukraine’s first printer), the ‘Ostroh Bible’ as painting and the creation of mosaics served many Kyiv well as fine examples of old Ukrainian book illustrations and churches, and a scriptorium oversaw the translation of many other rare exhibits. =Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. foreign literature into Slavic. The influential Slavic history Admission 15Hr, children and students 5Hr. “The Chronicle of Bygone Years” was written here by the Exibition of Microminiatures by M.Syadristyi historian Nestor. Other notable features include the burial J-3, Lavrska 9 (Lavra), Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 site of Yuri Dolgorukiy (founder of Moscow) inside the Church 280 81 37, www.microart.kiev.ua. A world of wonder is of the Saviour of Berestovo; and the 18th century bell tower, presented for the visitors of this inimitable exhibition. The the highest in all of Ukraine at 96m. exhibits displayed here are so tiny that they can be seen Following years of Communist rule, the government has only under the microscope. Every work of art is exceptionally recently returned many buildings to the Orthodox Church. unique and have been made by the craftsman M.Syadrystyi, The monastery now operates as the Kyiv Theological Honorary Master of Ukrainian Folk Art. His creative art Seminary and Academy. There are also many museums inspired the creation of a new world - “microminiature”. on the territory, the best of which are listed below. =Open =Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Tue. Close every day from 09:00 - 18:00. Admission: adults 50Hr, children 25Hr. 13:30 - 14:30 for lunch. Admission 10Hr, children 6Hr.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 42 LEISURE

Ski slopes in Kyiv Bouldering UP! Holosiivskyiv prosp. 27, Holosiivska, tel. (+380) 50 816 76 60, www.up-climbing.com.ua. Single visit 30- 50Hr. 10 visits - 300-450Hr. =Open 08:00 - 23:00. Jiwa Chystiakivska 20, Sviatoshyn, tel. (+380) 96 100 00 88. Single visit 35-50Hr. 8 visits - 320Hr. =Open 08:00 - 11:00, 16:00 - 22:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Roller skating Blockbuster Moskovskyi prosp. 34V, (Blockbuster shopping mall), Petrivka, tel. (+380) 44 499 83 73. =Open 12:00 - 22:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Admission 50-60Hr including rental, 30-40Hr with your own rollers. Dream Town N-2, Obolons’kyi prosp. (between Obolon and Mins’ka Metro stations), Mins’ka, tel. (+380) 50 387 88 85. =Open 08:00 - 23:00. Admission 20-60Hr. Protasiv Yar G-4, Protasiv Yar 39, Palats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 67 335 12 07, www.gora.com.ua. Full skiing equipment rentals start at 80Hr for two hours Skating rings (90Hr on weekend). Each next hour - 30Hr. The prices for Bil’shovyk E-2, Het’mana 6 (Bil’shovyk shopping mall), instruction is 150Hr per hour. Snowboard rentals start at Shuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 50. =Open 08:00- 90Hr. One lift-ride cost 4-12Hr. Entrance costs 8-15 Hr. 03:00. Admission 30-50Hr for adults, 20-30Hr for children. =Open 10:00 - 22:30, Mon 14:00 - 22:30. Night skiing Ice Dream N-2, Obolons’kyi prosp. (between Obolon’ on Saturday 22:00 - 04:00. and Minska Metro stations), Mins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 Vyshgora Vatutina 102, Vyshgorod, Heroiv Dnipra 428 36 11. =Open 08:00 - 24:00. Admission 30-50Hr for (take bus #1 to the last stop near Vyshgora), tel. adults, 20-35Hr for children. (+380) 44 303 99 05/(+380) 99 280 55 05, www. Karavan L-2, Luhova 9 (Karavan Shopping mall), vishgora.com.ua. Full skiing equipment rentals start at Mins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 461 82 06. =Open 08:15 - 130Hr for a day (190Hr on weekend). One lift-ride cost 6Hr, 23:15. Admission and 45 minutes of skating costs 30-50Hr 8Hr on weekends and 10Hr on holidays. Ski-passes avail- for adults, 10-25Hr for children. able for 2hours - 50/65/80Hr, 6 hours - 70/90/110Hr and for a day - 100/120/150Hr. =Open 10:00 - 22:00. Skating Ring under the Friendship Arc D-4, Night skiing 23:00 - 04:00 - 120/150Hr. Maidan Nezalezhnosti =Open 14:00 - 23:00. 11:00 - 23:00 on weekends. Opening is scheduled on 14 December. Admission 25-40Hr. Swimming pools Billiard & Bowling Olymp H-4, Dymytrova 10, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) Chameleon G-2, Peremohy prosp. 3, Ukraine Shopping 44 287 61 49. You’ll pay 60Hr for a 45-minute swim at Mall, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 496 17 17, www. Olymp. Regular vistors can go 10 times for 540Hr and save club300.com.ua. Chameleon is the only bowling club in 60 hryvnas. =Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun downtown Kyiv. It is located on the third floor of Ukraina Mall. 09:00 - 16:00. There are ten bowling lanes, a bar, and a restaurant in the J-5, Bastionna 7, Druzhby Narodiv, tel. (+380) club. Open 11:00 - 06:00. 99-198Hr per hour. Yunist = 44 285 21 22. The minimum price here is 35Hr, which Jumbo O-4, Moskovs’kyi prosp. 20B, Petrivka, tel. grants you four visits at an hour-and-a-half each. =Open (+380) 44 390 53 77, www.jumbo.kiev.ua. This bowling club 06:00 - 09:00. is located on the fourth floor of the Plazma Shopping Centre, and is the biggest in Kyiv; thirty Brunswick bowling lanes compensate the distance from downtown. There is individual lane polishing Tennis courts for professionals and ten bowling lanes with bumpers for begin- Merydian Heroiv Sevastopolia 11B, Beresteis’ka, ners. Qualified instructors are also available. The fine for hitting tel. (+380) 44 408 64 44, www.meridian-sport.com. the screen hanging over the lane with the ball is 6000Hr. Bowl ua. A court costs 100-120Hr/hour. carefully. =Open 00:00 - 24:00. 78-216Hr per hour. Podil Tennis Courts N-6, Mezhyhirs’ka 56/63A, Ta - Machaon L-2, Luhova 12 (Karavan Shopping Mall), rasa Shevchenko, tel. (+380) 44 451 58 58. One hour Obolon’, tel. (+380) 44 206 43 33, www.club300. costs from 80Hr. 130-180Hr on a closed court. Lessons cost com.ua. Like other bowling clubs, Machaon is situated in 110-130Hr per hour. =Open 07:00 - 23:00. a shopping mall and is a popular relaxation venue after lots of shopping. The club has ten bowling lanes. = 78-198Hr Yo ga C en t re s per hour. Ishvara Zhylyanska 72A, Universitet, tel. (+380) 44 Ultramarin G-3, Uritskoho 1A, Vokzal’na, tel. (+380) 360 11 57, www.yoga.kiev.ua. Single visit 70Hr, 4 visits - 44 206 03 51/(+380) 44 206 03 53, www.ultramarine. 225Hr, 8 visits - 435Hr. =Open 07:00 - 22:30. com.ua. The Ultramarine club was one of the first bowling clubs in Ukraine. It has the fastest pin spotter in the city, 18 Andriy Sydersky Studio H-5, Bozhenka 86G, Palats bowling lanes, three tables for Russian billiards, and two for Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 239 19 27, www.yoga.ua. American billiards. =Open 10:00 - 06:00. Single visit 85Hr, 4 visits - 275Hr, 8 visits - 525Hr. =Open 07:30 - 22:00. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com SHOPPING 43

Shopping malls Bil‘shovyk E-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, Shuliavs‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 54, www.trc-bolshevik.com. =Open 10:00 - 21:00. Dream Town N-2, Obolonskiy prosp. 1B, Obolon, Min- ska, tel. (+380) 44 428 36 11, www.dreamtown.kiev.ua. =Open 10:00 - 22:00. Globus C-4, Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Underground), Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 590 18 93/590 18 96, www.globus.com.ua. =Open 10:00 - 21:00. .%7 Gulliver H-3, Sportyvna 1A, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 98 555 55 09, www.gullivercenter.com. =Open 10:00 - 22:00, entertainment zone until 02:00. Mandarin Plaza B-5, H-3, Baseina 4, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 230 95 50, fax (+380) 44 230 95 91, www.mandarin.kiev.ua. =Open 10:00 - 21:00. Metrograd B-5, Bessarabska pl. (underground), Ploscha Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 247 56 65, www. metrograd.com. =Open 10:00 - 21:00. Ocean Plaza H-5, Gorkoho 176, Lybidska, tel. (+380) 44 537 23 64, www.oceanplaza.com.ua. =Open 10:00 - 22:00. Sky Mall E-2, Henerala Vatutina 2T, Petrivka, tel. (+380) 44 371 41 30, www.skymall.ua. =Open 10:00 - 22:00. Books ChitayGorod B-3, B.Khmelnytskoho 3B, Teatralna, tel. (+380) 44 279 64 38. =Open 10:00 - 21:00. Knyharnia YE B-3, Lysenka 3, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 88 54. =Open 09:00 - 21:00. Litera H-3, L’va Tolstoho 11/61, Ploscha Lva Tol- stoho, tel. (+380) 44 234 81 97. =Open 09:00 - 22:00. Fashion Atelier 1 A-4, Shevchenka bul’v. 10 (entrance from the yard), tel. (+380) 44 288 05 50/599 31 80, art@atelier1. com.ua. The only truly concept store in Ukraine based at the former cold war bunker right at the heart of Kyiv. Atelier 1’s selling the most conceptual collections of menswear and womenswear from Japan and France (Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Peachoo and Krejberg, Comme des Garcons Parfums. Acces- sories, Bags) and Ukrainian Designers international collections. The Shop is divided into zones: collection rooms, Boiler room, Parfum Vault and Strong room. New format of Canteen is avail- able. =Open 11:00 - 20:00.#> ) Food & Drink Billa B-5, Bessarabska pl. 2, Ploscha Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 490 56 82. Also at Globus Shopping Mall under Maidan Nezalezhnosti. = Open 24hrs. Furshet B-5, Baseina 4, Ploscha Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 230 95 21. Also at Guliver Shopping Mall.=Open 24hrs. Also at: G-1, Yaroslavs’ka 57, tel. 417 03 50. Good Wine B-5, Mechnikova 9, Klovska, tel. (+380) 44 390 79 60, www.goodwine.ua. Also at Heroiv Stal- inhrada 16B.= Open 09:00 - 22:00. 24hrs on Fri. Polyana B-2, Observatorna 12A, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 800 50 16 16, www.polyana.kiev.ua. =Open 10:00 - 22:00. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 44 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY

Health Beauty salons Dessange B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 49A, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 569 60 00, www.dessange.com.ua. Also at 24h Pharmacies C-3, Hyatt Regency Hotel, tel. (+380) 44 537 63 00. =Open 03 Apteka A-4, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 58, Univer- 08:00 - 21:00. sytet, tel. (+380) 44 455 61 05. Also at Dorohozhyt- Diva Health & Beauty Centre A-3, B.Khmel’nytskoho ska 17.=Open 24hrs. 53/53, Opera Hotel, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 492 Vitalux A-3, Shota Rustaveli 15B, Palats Sportu, 74 92, www.opera-hotel.com. tel. (+380) 44 593 22 22. Also at Dmytrivska 2, =Open 00:00 - 24:00. Estet-centre A-5, H-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 25, L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 235 05 13. =Open 09:00 - 21:00. Clinic & Hospitals NK Club C-3, Mykhailivs’kyi prov. 20, Maidan American Medical Centre F-1, Berdychivs’ka 1, Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 33 44, www.nkclub. Luk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 76 00, www. com.ua. =Open 09:00 - 21:00. amcenters.com. Individual, family and corporate medical SPA Naturel C-3, Tarasovoi 5A, Hyatt Regency Kyiv plans. Children’s health. Women health. 24hrs emergency Hotel, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 visit, hospitalization or evacuation abroad. =Open 24hrs. 40, www.kiev.regency.hyatt.com. =Open 08:00 - 21:00. CMD G-1, Pymonenka 10A, Luk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 239 12 23, www.cmd.kiev.ua. A full Dry cleaners & laundries spectrum of laboratory tests with results within 24hrs. B-5, Khreschatyk 25, Khreschatyk, tel. Complex diagnostic programmes (therapy, cardiology, Mister Well (+380) 44 279 87 81. Laundry, dry-cleaning, leather and gastroenterology, immunology and allergology). Open = suede goods care, clothes repair. Suit cleaning - 44Hr, deliv- 24hrs, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00.  ery: 30Hr. Also at: Dehtiarivs’ka 5, tel. 484 64 15. =Open Dobrobut G-1, Pymonenka 10, Luk’yanivs’ka, tel. 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. (+380) 44 495 28 88/(+380) 44 495 28 88, www. I-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka med.dobrobut.com. Emergency services, consultations Swiss Dry Cleaner Cinderella 145/1, Lybibs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 529 26 01. Open for adults and children, in-patient unit, diagnostics, medi- 08:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Also at: Schekavyts’ka cal assistance and transportation of patients within Kyiv, 9A, tel. 417 14 33. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun; Ivana Ukraine and abroad. Also at Tatars’ka 2E; Povitroflots’kyi Mazepy 5, tel. 280 58 16. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - prosp. 38; prosp. Komarova 3, corp. 5. Open 24hrs. = 18:00. Closed Sun; Turhenevs’ka 80, tel. 486 88 91. Open Laboratory Dr. Roedger I-4, Staronavodnyts’ka 13 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. section A, office 48, Pechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 569 28 28, [email protected]. Offers a full range of laboratory analyses. Samples are sent twice a week to Berlin in Germany for processing. They will give you a full run-down of your clinical health. =Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Ukrainian-German Clinic H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 67/7, Respulikans’kyi Stadion, tel. (+380) 44 289 52 72/(+380) 44 289 44 35. A private centre that provides medical services in therapy, obstetrics- gynaecology, urology, andrology, dermatovenerology, dermatocosmetology, mammology, endocrinology, otolar- yngology and neurology. =Open 08:00 - 21:00. Dentists Avanto D-1, Kostiantynivs’ka 22/17A, Kontrak- tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 37 97, www. avanto.com.ua. =Open 09:00 - 21:00. MedLife Elite F-1, Yakira 10A, Luk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 238 66 26. =Open 00:00 - 24:00. MedLife Lux O-2, Heroiv Stalingrada 20, Mins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 412 21 23. =Open 00:00 - 24:00. Prisma D-3, Sahaidachnoho 25, Poshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 14 04. =Open 08:00 - 20:00. Opticians Ailas Bazhana prosp. 12A, Osokorky, tel./fax (+380) 44 291 01 91, www.ailas.com.ua. =Open 10:00 - 20:00. Excimer H-4, Dimitrova 5B, Osokorky, tel./fax (+380) 44 238 68 00, www.excimer.ua. =Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. The monument to St Volodymyr was erected in 1853 and became one of the symbols of Kyiv

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY 45 Fitness clubs 5th Element Club Elektrykiv 29A, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 351 77 33, www.5el.com. ua/eng/. This fitness club is situated on Rybalsky Is- land, near the Dnipro River. Clients have the opportunity to mix fitness with relaxation and healthy food. There is a beauty salon, a spa centre, several workout rooms, a gym and tennis courts. = Open Mon-Fri 07:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-23:00. Aquarium Fitness Centre O-1, Heroiv Stalinhrada 45, Mins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 239 22 22, www.aquarium. ua. Aquarium features 3 indoor pools, diving pool, fitness centre, cardiozone, 8 aerobic studios, 3 tennis courts, mini- football field, billiard, children’s club, saunas and medical- cosmetology centre. =Open 07:00 - 23:00. Club Olympus C-3, Tarasova 5A (Hyatt Regency Kyiv Hotel), Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 40, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. The state of the art gymnasium is fitted with the latest equipment from Technogym such as cardiovascular machines, a wide range of strength machines, free weight and high-tech audio visual equipment. The aqua facility includes 22-meter indoor swim- ming pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, Finish sauna, cold jet shower More than 20 kinds of massages as well as a juice bar for a complete sense of relaxation. and SPA treatments =Open 06:00 - 23:30. Favourite V.I.P. Club C-5, Muzeinyi prov. 6, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 33 38, www.favoritvi- High-qualified masseurs pclub.com.ua. One of the best fitness clubs and spas in the from Bangkok, Thailand whole of Ukraine. Given its prime location, this club is popular amongst the political, cultural, and business élite of Kyiv. It has a wide range of facilities, VIP service and the newest in deluxe Relax atmosphere pampering technology. =Open 07:00 - 23:00. Discount programs Massage and club cards

Kinari Oriental SPA A-3, Ivana Franka 40, Univer- sytet, tel. (+380) 44 234 53 40/(+380) 93 620 60 Gift certificates 40, www.kinari-spa.com.ua. Just what Kyiv’s city centre needed: traditional Thai massage and oriental SPA treatment. Qualified therapists are on hand to heal both body and soul and help put a bit of calming balance back into your hectic life. =Open 10:00 - 22:00. Language courses Echo Eastern Europe J-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul‘v. 29, Pechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 361 86 50/(+380) 68 707 48 47, www.echoee.com. Russian and Ukrainian. One- to-one and group classes with professional tutors. Flexible approach. =Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. English language centre I-4, Kutuzova 4A, Pechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 581 19 89, www.elckiev. org. =Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Novamova B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 14V, office 28, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 12 70/(+380) 44 237 77 50, www.learnrussiankiev.com. One of the top the Russian-language training institutes. NovaMova provides conversational practice, guest speaker lectures, Rus- sian movie club, field trips and various sightseeing tours =Open 08:00 - 21:00.# Monarch International Language Academy Tol- bukhina 45, Nyvky, tel. (+380) 44 451 78 39, www. monarchila.kiev.ua. Lessons and courses in Russian, Ukrainian, English, German and French. =Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 46 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

Accountants & Consulting Accounting Solutions C-6, Instytuts’ka 19B, office 5IF
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,ZJW 29, Khreshatyk, tel. (+380) 44 362 58 00/(+380) 44 581 12 20, fax (+380) 44 581 12 22, info@acsoinua. com, www.acsoinua.com. PECHERSK SCHOOL Apple Consulting A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office 8, L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 495 27 28, fax (+380) INTERNATIONAL, KYIV 44 495 27 70, www.applecons.com.ua. www.psi.kiev.ua Deloitte & Touche H-3, Zhylians’ka 48-50A, Deloitte 7a, Victora Zabily Str. %XVLQHVVůHQWUH Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 490 90 Tel: (+38044) 455-9585 00, fax (+380) 44 490 90 01, www.deloitte.com.ua. Fax: (+38044) 455-9580 Ernst & Young B-4, Khreschatyk 19A, Khreschatyk, [email protected] tel. (+380) 44 490 30 00, fax (+380) 44 490 30 30, www.ey.com/ua. KPMG C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 11, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 490 55 07, fax (+380) 490 55 08, www. International Schools kpmg.kiev.ua. PricewaterhouseCoopers G-3, Zhylians’ka 75, Collège Français Anne de Kiev A-3, Chapaieva Vokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 67 77, fax (+380) 44 21, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 200 19 93, fax 490 67 38, www.pwc.com. (+380) 44 200 19 97, secretariat-kiev@ecolefr@ com.ua, www.adk.org.ua. Primary and secondary school (3-17 years). French cirriculum. =Open 08:00 Banks - 17:00. OTP Bank A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, L’va Tol- Kyiv International School Sviatoshyns’kyi prov. stoho, tel. (+380) 800 300 0 50, www.otpbank.com. 3A, Sviatoshyn, tel. (+380) 44 452 27 93/(+380) ua/enb. =Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 44 452 29 98, [email protected], www.kievin- Raiffeisen Bank Aval C-4, Khreschatyk 16, ternationalschool.com. Pechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 279 08 71, [email protected], Pechersk School International Zabily 7A, www.aval.ua/en. =Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 455 95 85, www.psi. Lunch time 13:00 - 14:00. kiev.ua. UniCredit Bank B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 14A, Zoloti The British International School (Secondary) Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 585 89 85, www.unicredit.com. Tolbukhina 45, Nyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 21 ua. =Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 10, [email protected], www.british- school.kiev.ua. Business connections The British International School (Primary) Scherbakova 36A, Nyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 American Chamber of Commerce in Ukraine H-4, 20 77, [email protected],ua, www.britishschool. Ū+ULQFKHQND Palats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 490 kiev.ua. 58 00, fax (+380) 44 490 58 01, www.chamber.ua. British Ukrainian Chamber of Commerce (BUCC) C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 34A, suite 42, Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 410 57 20, fax (+380) 44 230 21 51, admin- Lawyers strator@bucc. com.ua, www.bucc.com.ua. Beiten Burkhardt G-2, Turgenevs’ka 38, Univer- sytet, tel. (+380) 44 494 04 00, fax (+380) 44 494 04 European Business Association (EBA) D-2, 01, [email protected], www.bblaw.com. Andriivs’kyi uzviz 1A, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz C-5, Instytutska 19B, (+380) 44 496 06 01, fax (+380) 44 496 06 02, office@ 5th floor, Khreshatyk, tel. (+380) 44 503 35 46, fax eba.com.ua, www.eba.com.ua. (+380) 44 503 35 49, www.cms-rrh.com/kyiv. General Direction of Attendance to Foreign Rep- Gvozdiy & Oberkovych C-5, Instytutska 19B, office resentatives B-3, Strilets’ka 14, Zoloti Vorota, tel. 29, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 20/(+380) (+380) 44 482 01 90, fax (+380) 44 482 36 93, www. 44 581 12 21, fax (+380) 44 581 12 22, info@golaw. gdip.com.ua. ua, www.golaw.ua. Ukrainian Association of Software Developers Konnov & Sozanovsky A-5, Shota Rustaveli 23, Suite (UASWD) Hlushkova prosp. 2, building 6, office 405, 5, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 490 54 00, fax (+380) Lybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 521 33 80, fax (+380) 44 44 490 54 90, [email protected]. 536 13 56/521 33 80, www.uaswd.org.ua. Real estate Ukrainian Bar Association for Foreign Affairs (UKRINJURKOLEGIA) B-3, Zolotovorits’ka 2-2A, DTZ Zadelhoff Tie Leung A-3, B.Kheml’nytskoho 52, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 590 30 60, [email protected]. Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 288 03 91, fax (+380) 44 279 28 35, www.ukrinur.kiev.ua. ua, www.dtz.kiev.ua. Ukrainian Chamber of Commerce (UCC) B-2, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 33, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 272 €1 = 10.97Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 13.00Hr 29 11, fax (+380) 44 272 33 53, www.ucci.org.ua. (27 November 2013 official rates)

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com INDEX 47

5 Komnat 32 Ernst & Young 46 Litera 43 Pechersk School The British International 5th Element Club 45 Eshak 31 Lucky Pub 33 International 46 School 46 11 Mirrors Design Hotel 16 Estet-centre 44 Lufthansa 6 Pervak 23 The Center of Spanish 1000 Apartment Service 22 Europcar 5 Lun Van 26 Pivbar Beer & Beef 33 language and culture 13 Accounting Solutions 46 European Business Lviv Holovnyi Train Station 5 Podil Tennis Courts 42 The Hub Hostel 22 Aeroflot 6 Association 46 Lybid 18 Polish Institute 13 The International Centre Air Baltic 6 Exibition of Microminiatures Lyon Wine Bar 29 Polyana 43 of Culture and Art ‘October Al Faro 29 by M.Syadristyi 41 M17 12 Porter Pub 33 Palace' 13 Alfavito 16 Fairmont Grand Hotel Kyiv 15 Machaon 42 Porto Maltese 31 The National Alitalia - Compagnia Aerea Favourite V.I.P. Club 45 Magic Bus Kyiv 22 Premier Palace 16 Museum "Memorial in Italiana S.p.A. 6 FC Dynamo Kyiv museum at maLLina café 27 President Hotel 19 Commemoration of Famines' American Chamber of NSC Olimpiyskiy 36 Mandarin 26 PricewaterhouseCoopers 46 Victims in Ukraine" 38 Commerce in Ukraine 46 Federal Express 10 Mandarin Plaza 43 Prime Excursion Bureau 37 The One Street Museum 38 American Medical Centre 44 Fellini 28 Marocana Fashion Café 29 Prisma 44 The Pharmacy Museum 39 Andrew's Descent 35 Folk Architecture and Life Mayak 42 Protasiv Yar 42 The Spiritual Treasures of Apple Consulting 46 Museum 38 Maysternya 12 Puzata Khata 28 Ukraine 39 Aquarium Fitness Centre 45 Foodtourist 26 McDonald's 28 Radio Bar 33 TIU Khreschatyk 22 Arena Entertainment 34 French Cultural Centre 13 MedLife Elite 44 Radisson BLU 16 TNT 10 Aroma Espresso Bar 32 Fun Bar Banka 33 MedLife Lux 44 Radisson BLU Kyiv Podil 16 Toys museum 39 Art Club 44 34 Gagarin 22 Merydian 42 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 46 Traktir na Basseinoy 28 Atelier 1 43 Gallery 36 12 Metrograd 43 Ramada Encore Kiev 19 Tr i 3 1 Austrian Airlines 6 Gallery RA 12 Mister Well 44 Repriza 32 Trolleybus Pub 33 Avanto 44 Galytskyi Shtrudel 32 Monaco 30 Rucola 30 Tr y p t y c h 1 2 Azhur 34 Gapchinska 12 Monarch International Rus 19 Tsekh Gallery 12 Babai Pub 33 GastroRock 26 Language Academy 45 San Paolo 28 Ts y fer bla t 32 Bakkara Art-hotel 16 General Direction of Monastyrs’ka Trapezna 23 Senator Apartments City Tubeteyka 31 Baobab Mistycal Café 32 Attendance to Foreign Motherland 36 Center 20 U Golema 26 Barkas 31 Representatives 46 Mozzarella Cafe 30 Senator Apartments U Hromogo Pola 26 Barsuk 26 Globus 43 Multiplex 13 Executive Court 20 Ukraina 13 %DƇ$$5%UDVHULH  Goethe Institute 13 Murakami 31 Senator Apartments Maidan Ukraine International Airlines BEEF Meat & Wine 29 Golden Gate 35 Museum of Historical 20 6 Beef's Bar 24 Golden Gate Irish Pub 33 Valuables 41 Sinoval 23 Ukraine-Japan Centre 13 Beiten Burkhardt 46 Gorets 24 Museum of Modern Ukrainian Sixt 5 Ukraine Palace 13 Belle Vue 24 Grata Apartment Service 22 Fine Arts Collection 37 SkyArtCafé 32 Ukrainian Association of Bibique Bar 33 Greguar Apartments 20 Museum of Russian Art 37 Sky Bus 5 Software Developers 46 Bil'shovyk 42, 43 Grill-Bureau Pache 27 Museum of the Great Sky Taxi 5 Ukrainian Bar Association Boccaccio 30 Gvozdiy & Oberkovych 46 Patriotic War 38 Slavutych 21 for Foreign Affairs Boom Boom Room 34 Han Gang 29 Mysterious Kyiv 37, 39 6PDUWFDIp%LEOLRWHƑK  (UKRINJURKOLEGIA) 46 Boris 44 Hertz Rent a Car 5 Mystets 12 Solid Gold 34 Ukrainian Chamber of Boryspil State International Hinkalnaya 24 National Art Museum 38 Sorry Babushka 34 Commerce 46 Airport 5 Holiday Inn Kiev 15 National History Museum 38 Soviart 12 Ukrainian-German Clinic 44 Boutique Hotel Riviera 18 Hotel Boryspil 21 National Museum of SPA Naturel 44 Ukrainian State Museum of British Airways 6 House of Organ and Chernobyl 37 St. Andrew's Church 36 Books and Printing 41 British Council 13 Chamber Music 13 National Musical Academy 13 Staro 21 Ultramarin 42 British Ukrainian Chamber of House With Chimeras 35 National Opera of Ukraine 14 State Museum of Theatre, UniCredit Bank 46 Commerce 46 Hyatt Regency Kyiv 15 Naturlih Pub 33 Music and Cinema Arts of UPS 10 Bruce Lee 26 ibis Kiev Shevchenko NK Club 44 Ukraine 41 Vagon-Restaurant 29 Brucie Collections 12 Boulevard 18 Nobu 31 State Museum of Ukrainian Varadero 28 Buddha-bar 29 Ice Dream 42 Novamova 45 Decorative Art 41 Varenichnaya #1 24 Budget 5 iLive 31 NSC Olimpiyskiy 40 Stereo Plaza 13 Varenichnaya Katusha 31 Bulgakov Museum 36 Il Patio 30 NSC Olimpiyskiy Tours 39 St. Michael's Golden-Domed Vault 13 Computer Club 10 Butterfly Deluxe 13 Independence Square 35 O'Brien’s 33 Cathedral 36 Vero Vero 30 Café Imbir 32 INK 27 Odesa Kino 13 St. Sophia's Cathedral 36 Vogue Café 28 Carpaccio 30 Intercontinental 15 Olga 22 St. Volodymyr's Cathedral 36 Vozdvyzhens'kyi Boutique Central Post Office 10 In Yan Salon 44 Olivie 28 Sunduk 33 Hotel 21 Central/Southern Train IQ Hotel 21 Olymp 42 Swiss Dry Cleaner Cinderella Water Information Centre 39 Station 7 Italian Culture Institute 13 Onegin 28 44 Whiskey Corner 26 Chameleon 42 Ivan Honchar's Museum, Open Kiev 39 6ůš 63% 3XE  Why not? Chillout Kiev 22 Chashka 32 Ukrainian Centre of Folk Art Opera 16 Ta r a s B u l b a 2 4 Ya Gallery 12 Chechevica 24 37 Osteria Pantagruel 30 T.G.I. Fri da y’s 24 Yunist 42 City Beach Club Zima 34 Jakob Grether art-centre 12, OTP Bank 46 The Bohdan and Varvara Zheltok 24 Club Olympus 45 13 Palace of Sport 13 Khanenko Museum of Arts Zhulyany Kyiv Airport 5 CMD 44 Jumbo 42 Park Hotel Golosievo 19 38 Zig Zag 22 CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz 46 Kanapa Restaurant Saloon Collège Français Anne de 23 Kiev 46 Karas Gallery 12 Concord 29 Karavan 42 Cosmopolite 18 Khreschatik 21 Cossack's Settlement Khreschatyk 35 Mamajeva Sloboda 39 Kiev Apartments 22 Cote d`Azur 27 Kiev Central Station 22 Da Vinci Fish Club 30 Kiev for You 22 Déjà vu 27 Kinari Oriental SPA 45 Deloitte & Touche 46 Kinopalats 13 Den & Bros 30 KLM 6 Dessange 44 Kniazhyi Grad 23 DHL 10 Knyharnia YE 43 Disco Radio Hall 34 Konnov & Sozanovsky 46 Diva Health & Beauty Centre Kozlovitsa 26 44 KPMG 46 D*Lux Entertainment 34 Kult RA 23 Dnipro 18 Kureni 23 Dobrobut 44 Kyi v 13 Docker’s ABC 34 Kyiv Fortress Museum 37 Dorothy’s Pub 33 Kyiv International School 46 Help! Dragee Café 32 Kyiv Islamic Social Cultural Dream House Hostel & Bar Centre 13 Fire & Emergency 101 21 Kyivo-Pechers'ka Lavra 41 Police 102 Dream Party Hostel 22 Laboratory Dr. Roedger 44 DTZ Zadelhoff Tie Leung 46 La Cantina 32 Ambulance service 103 Dynamo Stadium 40 Le Cosmopolite 24 Doctor’s phone advice 1583 Echo Eastern Europe 45 Ledovyi Stadion 42 Information about hospitalised patients 1613 English language centre 45 L'Entrecote 27 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 48 STREET REGISTER

Akademika Bohomol’tsia Hertsena F-1 Lyvars’ka L-4 Panasa Myrnoho I-3, J-4 Stadionnyi prov. F/G-3 B/C-6, I-3 Hlazunova I-5 M. Pryimachenko bul’v. Panfilovtsiv J-4 Stara Poliana G-1 Akademika Filatova I-5 Hlibova G-2 I-4/5, J-4 Panfilovtsiv prov. J-4 Starokyivs’ka F-2 Akademika Karpyns’koho E-4 Hlybochyts’ka B/C-1, G/H-1 Maiborody F-1 Parkova doroha D-5/6, I-2, J-2/3 Staronavodnyts’ka I/J-4 Akademika Yanhelia E-2 Hlybochyts’kyi proizd G-1 Maidan Nezalezhnosti C-4, I-2 Patrisa Lumumby I-4/5 Starovokzal’na G-2/3 Aleia Heroiv Krut J-3 Hoholivs’ka A-1/2, G-2 Makarivs’ka L-5/6 Pavla Pestelia G-2/3 Strilets’ka B-3, H-2 Aliabieva M-5 Honcharna C-2, H-1/2 Maksyma Kryvonosa F-4 Pavlivs’ka G-2 Students’ka G-1 Andriia Holovka F-4/5 Horodnia G-4 Mala Zhytomyrs’ka Pecheniz’ka G-1 Surykova F-3 Andriivs’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 Hospital’na A-6, I-3 C-3/4, H-2 Pechers’ka pl. I-4 Suvorova J-3 Andriivs’kyi uzviz C/D-2, H-1 Hospital’nyi prov. A-6, I-3 Malopidval’na B-3/4, H-2 Pechers’kyi uzviz I-3 Symona Petliury G-3 Anri Barbiusa H-4, I-4/5 Hryhoriia Andriuschenka F/G-2 Marka Vovchka L-3 Peremohy pl. G-2 Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v Antonova E/F-4 Huchnyi prov. F-4 Marshala Malynovs’koho Peremohy prosp. E/G-2 A-3/5, G-2, H-3 Anyschenka J-3 Husovs’koho I-3/4 M-2, M/N-3, O-2 Perspektyvna I-4 Tarasivs’ka H-3 Arkhitektors’ka F-5 Illi Erenburha G/H-3 Marshala Rybalka F/G-2 Pervomais’koho B-6, I-3 Tatars’ka G-1 Arsenal’na I-4 Illins’ka D-2, H/I-1 Marshala Tymoshenka Petra Dehtiarenka L-1/3 Tel’mana H-4 Arsenal’na pl. J-3 Instytuts’ka C-4/6, I-2/3 M-2, N-1/2 Petra Kryvonosa pl. G-3 Ter’okhina L-5 Artema A-1, B-1/2, G-1, G/H-2 Isaakiana F-2 Martyrosiana E-3/4 Petra Nischyns’koho F-3 Tereschenkivs’ka A-4, H-3 Bahhovutivs’ka F/G-1, L-6 Iskrivs’ka E-3 Mate Zalky O-3/4 Petrivs’ka B-1, H-1 Tolstoho L’va pl. A-5, H-3 Baikova H-5 Ivana Fedorova H-4 Matrosova I-5 Petrivs’ka aleia C/D-4, I-2 Topoleva F-3 Bankova B/C-5, I-2/3 Ivana Franka A/B-3, H-2/3 Mechnykova B-6, I-3 Petrovs’koho E-3 Tovarna I-5 Baseina A/B-5, H/I-3 Ivana Franka pl. B/C-5, I-2 Mekhanizatoriv F/G-4 Pidhirna G-1 Tr’okhsviatytel’s’ka Bastionna J-5 Ivana Honty E-1 Mel’nykova F/G-1 Pidvysots’koho I/J-5 C-3/4, H/I-2 Bekhterevs’kyi prov. A-1,G-1/2 Ivana Klymenka F-4 Mendelieieva I-5 Piters’ka E-3 Travneva G-5 Berdychivs’ka F-1 Ivana Kudri I-4/5 Metalistiv E-2 Platonivs’ka F/G-3 Trukhanivs’ka I/J-1 Bessarabs’ka pl. B-5, H-3 Ivana Mazepy J-3/4 Mezhyhirs’ka D-1/2, H-1, N-6 Pochainyns’ka H/I-1, O-6 Tsytadel’na J-3/4 Bilokur J-5 Iziums’ka H-5 Michurina J-4/5 Podil’s’kyi uzviz L-5/6 Tu l ’ c h y n s ’ k a L - 5 Bilorus’ka F-1 Kadets’kyi Hai F-5 Mins’ka pl. N-2/3 Pokrovs’ka D-2, H-1 Tul’s’ka pl. N-4 Bohatyrs’ka M-1/4, N-4 Kavkaz’ka F-3/4 Mitskevycha E-3 Pol’ova E-2/3 Turgenevs’ka A-1 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho Kerchens’ka E-4 Moldavs’ka G-1 Pol’ovyi prov. E-2 Turivs’ka N/O-6 A-2/4, B-4, G/H-2, H-3 Khoryva D-1, H-1 Molodohvardiis’ka E-4 Poliarna L/M-1 Tvers’ka I-4, H-5 Bohdanivs’ka F-3 Khreschatyk Montazhnykiv G/H-5 Politekhnichna E/F-2 Tvers’kyi tupyk I-4 Bohuslavs’kyi uzviz M-6 B-4/5, C-4, H-3, H/I-2 Moskovs’ka J-3 Politekhnichnyi prov. F-2 Tykha I-5 Borschahivs’ka E/F-2 Khvoiky M-5 Moskovs’ka pl. H-5 Polovets’ka G-1 Tymiriazievs’ka J-5 Borychiv Tik D-2/3, H/I-1 Kikvidze J-5 Moskovs’kyi prosp. L/O-4 Poltavs’ka G-2 Tymofiia Shamryla E-1 Borychiv uzviz D-3, I-1 Kirovohrads’ka G/H-5 Murashka F/G-1 Polzunova G-3 Umans’ka E/F-3 Botkina F-2 Kirovohrads’kyi prov. H-5 Muzeinyi prov. C-4/5, I-2 Poshtova pl. D-3, I-1 Universytets’ka F-4/5, G-5 Bozhenka H-4/5 Klinichna G-5 Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho Povitroflots’kyi prosp. Uryts’koho F/G-3 Bozhkiv Yar G-5 Klovs’kyi uzviz C-6, I/J-3 C-4/6, D-6, I-2, I/J-3 F-2/4, E-4/5 Ushyns’koho E-3/4 Brats’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 Kmytiv Yar G-1 Mykhaila Myshyna E-4 Predslavyns’ka H-4, I-5 Vadyma Het’mana E-2/3 Brest-Lytovs’kyi prov. F-2 Komandarma Kamenieva J-4 Mykhaila Zadniprovs’koho I-4 Profinternu H-5 Vandy Vasylevs’koi F-2 Brians’ka F-4 Konduktors’ka G-4 Mykhailivs’ka pl. C-3, H-2 Prorizna B-4, H-2 Vasylia Yana H-3 Brovars’kyi prosp. K-2/3 Kontraktova pl. D-2, H-1 Mykhailivs’kyi prov. Protasiv Yar G/H-4 Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka Buslivs’ka J-5 Kopernyka F/G-1, F-2 B-3/4, C-3, H-2 Providnyts’ka G-3/4 B-2, C-3, H-2 Chapaieva A-3, H-2 Kopylivs’ka L-5 Mykoly Amosova G/H-4 Pryozerna O-4 Verbova L-3/4, M-4/5, N-5 Chekhovs’kyi prov. A-2, G/H-2 Korabel’na M-5 Mykoly Hrinchenka H-4/5 Pryrichna O-1 Verkhn’okliuchova E-3 Chervonoarmiis’ka H-3/5, I-5 Korolenkivs’ka H-3/4 Mykoly Kravchenka Pryvitna G-4 Verkhnia J-4 Chervonozorianyi prosp. Kosmonavtiv pl. 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Moskovs’ka b li d s z n li d y o pl. v © DNVP Kartographia, 2013 c h r a 7 km a n s h C k Demiivska n o ’ ’ N e h irs k © Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2013 Central Bus Station shose a Ramada Encore All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

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