Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Kyiv March - May 2014

Orthodox Easter Ukrainian traditions

Parks & Gardens The best places to experience the amazing springtime

inyourpocket.com N°56

Contents

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Arrival & Getting around 6 Getting to the city, car rentals and transport

The Basics 8 All you’d better know while in Kyiv

History 11 A short overview of a rich Ukrainian history

Orthodox Easter 12 Ukrainian taditions

Culture & Events 14 Classical music, concerts and exhibitions schedules

Where to stay 18 Kviv accommodation options

Quick Picks 27 Kyiv on one page Peyzazhna Alley Wonderland

Restaurants 28 The selection of the best restaurants in the city

Cafes 38 Our choice from dozens of cafes

Drink & Party 39 City’s best bars, pubs & clubs

What to see 42 Essential sights, museums, and famous churches

Parks & Gardens 50 The best place to expirience the amazing springtime

Shopping 52 Where to spend some money

Directory 54 Medical tourism, lifestyle and business connections Maps & Index Street register 56 City centre map 57 City map 58 A time machine at Pyrohovo open-air museum Country map 59 facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 3 Foreword Spring in Kyiv usually comes late, so the beginning of March does not mean warm weather, shining sun and blossoming flowers. Kyiv residents could not be happier that spring is coming, as this past winter lasted too long. Snow fell right on schedule in December and only the last days of Febru- Publisher ary gave us some hope when we saw the snow thawing. Neolitas-KIS Ltd. With that in mind, if a burly Ukrainian sits next to you on Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080 Ukraine, a park bench and takes off his shirt, don’t be alarmed…he tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 / (+380) 67 977 44 16 just needs to soak in some rays to get over the cabin fever. [email protected] As usual, spring brings us a lot of expectations to see na- Registration No. KB 7467 ture as the city recovers from its long sleep. First we wait Published 4 times per year. 60,000 copies annualy. for the apricot trees to start blossoming, then we wait for Editorial the first tulips and most of all Kyiv residents wait for the Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova magnolia and lilac blossoming at the Botanical Gardens. Research Kyiv In Your Pocket team April-May is as usual chock - full of holidays, and Ukrain- Layout & Design KIS Ltd. ians always find a way to put their busy lives on hold Photos © Kyiv In Your Pocket and celebrate to the full. Locals add their own unique Cover photo depositphotos.com twists to April Fools’Day (1st April). International Work- Sales & Circulation ers Day is celebrated on the 1st and 2nd of May. Easter Director Andrii Cherniavskyi this year falls on the 5th of May. Victory Day is on the 9th Kyiv Natasha Martisova, (+380) 67 977 44 16 of May. We’re not sure by now if there will be a parade Lviv Yuliya Kanyuka, Solomiya Hnativ on Khreschatyk street, but just in case if you want to see Odesa Liubov Rogatinska the Ukrainian military in its full might – be somewhere around Kyiv’s main street on the morning of Victory Day. Copyright notice And be sure not to miss the nights beautiful fireworks Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 2003-2014. display. Also, start getting used to the fact that most of Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of Ukrainian companies will be on a holiday from the 1st to this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief the 9th of May. The cherry on top of all holidays is Kyiv extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Day! It is scheduled this year on 26th May and is one of Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Ber- the rockin’est celebrations of the year. nardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). You couldn’t have chosen a better time to visit Ukraine’s Maps capital. Kyiv is at its glorious best in springtime, so find a © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2014 bench in the sunshine, take a deep breath, and just let go. © Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2014 Nasolodzhuisia! Enjoy! ABOUT IYP

It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius ESTONIA in Lithuania - in which time we have LATVIA RUSSIA grown to become the largest publisher NORTHERN LITHUANIA of locally produced city guides in Eu- IRELAND IRELAND BELARUS rope. We now cover more than 100 cities NETHERLANDS POLAND across the continent (with Gudauri, in GERMANY UKRAINE Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC and the number of concise, witty, well- AUSTRIA HUNGARY written and downright indispensable In SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA SLOVENIACROATIA Your Pocket guides published each year ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA is approaching five million. We will be BULGARIA MONTENEGRO expanding even further this year, with FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA the publication of a guide to Johannes- GREECE burg: our first outside of Europe. To keep up to date with all that’s new at SOUTH In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (face- AFRICA book.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

4 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Foreword COVER STORY IN YOUR POCKET MOBILE

Kyiv In Your Pocket is proud to In Your Pocket is now available on all smartphones give its readers a brand new de- via our responsive mobile platform, found at sign. For this first new issue we m.inyourpocket.com. Featuring more than 100 cities have chosen a great photograph across Europe, In Your Pocket Mobile is an invaluable of Kyiv pechersk Lavra. This mon- resource which puts our unrivalled content together astery made Kyiv the “Rome” of with the technical capabilities of today’s smartphones. Orthodox Christianity and con- In Your Pocket Mobile allows you to view all venues in a tinues to attract pilgrims from city on a map, quickly showing which are the closest around the world. Its territory of to your current location. Smart filters can be used to 28ha contains not only churches, towers and an under- ensure that only those places which matter to you are ground cave system, but also some of Kyiv’s most in- displayed. You can also leave comments about venues, teresting museums. Landscape park below Lavra is one as well as rate them, right in the mobile platform. You of the most beautiful area in the city for spring strolls. can even share your comments with your friends via the most popular social networks. Point your phone’s web browser to m.inyourpocket.com now. THE NEW IN YOUR POCKET

Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind, we have taken on board hundreds of comments we have received over the past few years to come up with a new format for our guides to make them more dynamic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever before. With far less clutter than in past editions, we now emphasise the very best a city has to offer, while still ensuring that we point your way to all of those quirky, off-the-beaten track places you will not find in ONE OF THE BEST any other, lesser city guides. While we of course hope that the changes are met with approval by all our read- ers, do please get in touch if you have any feedback at all about our makeover: we welcome all opinions, be they good or bad or indifferent. Only by listening to our readers can we make In Your Pocket even better. Send your thoughts about all things Pocket to the email ad- dress [email protected], and follow us on both Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket) and Facebook (face- The UK newspaper The Independent recently published book.com/inyourpocket) to keep up with all the latest a list of the best 50 travel websites on the internet: in- developments at In Your Pocket. yourpocket.com was the third name on that list. This is what the newspaper had to say about us: “Entertaining and honest (at times devastatingly so), the In Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by comparison. More than 100 European cities have been given the In Your Pocket treatment, and all the key content from the print editions has been collated on this well-organised and userfriendly web- site. It also includes a series of YouTube vignettes.”

For about 3 months, St Michael’s Cathedral was a home, a hospital, and a store for protesters facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 5 Arriving & Getting Around

BY PLANE BY TRAIN BORYSPIL STATE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Both international and local trains arrive at Kyiv-Pasazhyr- All international flights arrive at Terminal D, the Airport’s larg- skyi train station. The refurbished Central Railway Station est and newest Terminal. The arrival hall is located on the (центральний вокзал) has now been joined by a futuristic- ground floor. Upon exiting the gates, there is an informa- looking Southern Railway Station (південний вокзал), with tion point, public telephones, Avis Car Rental and Meeting the platforms located between the two. A new waiting Point Cafe. Currency exchange windows with competitive lounge up the stairs to the left from the central main hall rates are to the left of the gates, first aid is to the right. Ticket boasts comfy couches for a 10Hr admission fee. Currency agents, immigration, and customs officials speak some Eng- exchange (обмін валют) points and ATMs (банкомат) are lish, so don’t worry if you have not yet mastered Ukrainian or in the main halls of each station. Coin-operated pay tele- Russian. Customs control has been greatly relaxed in recent phones are scattered throughout the building, while card- years, but it still makes sense to travel light and pass through operated ones are mostly outside the central entrance. A the green express line upon arrival. Terminal B, to the left of metro station is located to the left from the Central Termi- terminal D, operates local flights to Lviv, Odesa, Kharkiv, Do- nal. To the right from the Southern Terminal there is a stop netsk, Zaporizhzhia, Simferopol and Dnipropetrovsk. of Sky Buses to/from Boryspil International Airport. The cheapest option to get to the city centre is to take Sky You’re basically in the town already, but short taxi rides to Bus (www.skybus.kiev.ua). The bus stop is to the right of the Khreschatyk Street (Хрещатик) area cost 40Hr and up. The exit. The ride to the main train station costs 40Hr and takes entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (Вокзальна) is to your left about an hour. The other option is a taxi. We highly recom- as you exit the central station - look for the green letter . mend an official KBP Airport Sky Taxi, which is the most reli- Khreschatyk is only three stops east on the red line. Various able with extremely good cars and service. A ride to the city trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart from the cen- centre will cost around 200Hr. Pick up one of the cars right tral station. Those with light bags and fresh legs can head in front of the terminal exit. At the end of your trip the driver down the main road and turn right at Shevchenko Boulevard will give you a receipt according to the meter. A return trip (бульв. Т.Шевченка), which runs into Khreschatyk. from the city costs almost half the inbound journey. Also Sky Taxi is a good choice for trips around the city with a rate of 6.5Hr per 1 km. BUYING TRAIN TICKETS For the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train ZHULYANY KYIV AIRPORT ticket at one of ticket offices (kasy) at the Central (or South- Kyiv Zhulyani Airport (Аеропорт Київ Жуляни) is only 8km ern) terminal of the Kyiv train station. The staff does not from the centre and handles mostly domestic travel, flights speak English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/Russian. It is to and from Moscow and Wizz Air flights serving Europe. a good idea to get know the train number in advance and There are several ATMs, a bank with good currency rates, write in on a piece of paper, together with the departure several cafes on the ground floor, and free Wi-Fi available date and time. Don’t bother to learn the Ukrainian alpha- throughout the terminal. Departures/arrivals for domestic bet, write down the destination city name in English as well flights operate from the old terminal behind Terminal A. A as your name. You might be asked to provide a passport taxi to the city centre should not cost you more than 70Hr. when boarding. Aside from the train station, you can buy Trolleybus #9 (1.50Hr) brings you to Southern terminal of your tickets at the Central Ticket Office on Tarasa Shevchen- the main train station. Trolleybus #22 goes to Dorohozhy- ka bulv., which accepts credit cards. chi metro station (green line). Marshrutka #213 (2.50Hr) Visit booking.uz.gov.ua/en/ for train schedule and ticket shuttles passengers to Dorohozhychi (green line) and booking. Petrivka (blue line) metro stations. =E-1, Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 79, tel. (+380) 44 242 23 08, www.airport.kiev.ua. CENTRAL/SOUTHERN TRAIN STATION There are above 50 ticket offices in total in both Central and Southern Terminal. Consider that on Fridays and holi- days long queue is a usual thing. Buy tickets in advance. =G-3, Vokzalna pl. 1, Vokzalna, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05. Open 24hrs.

CENTRAL TICKET OFFICE Here you can buy tickets to all destinations, including international. Credit cards are accepted. On holidays and summer season tickets are limited.=G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bulv. 38/40, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05. Open 07:00 - 20:00.  When travelling around Ukraine by train, you will never miss the hustle and bustle of the Central Terminal

6 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Arriving & Getting Around The privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or BY BUS route taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along speci- fied routes. Many run the same routes as trolleys or buses A new Central Bus Station is under construction next to the and use the same numbers. Just flag it down as you would new Teremki metro station. Most international buses, how- a taxi, then tell the driver “na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on the ever, still arrive at the old Kyiv’s Central Bus Station (tsentralnyi stop, please”) when you’ve had enough. Fares are paid as avtovokzal). The old station sits like a hideous centrepiece on you board and currently range from 2 to 3Hr. Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovska ploscha. A currency Since 1905, Kyiv’s funicular has carried passengers be- exchange office (обмін валют) is next to the main exit, and tween Podil, on the bank of the Dnipro, and the heights of just outside is an ATM (банкомат) that dispenses Ukrainian Mykhailivs’ka ploscha. It offers not only a means of getting Hryvnia. If you need to store your bags, a left-luggage office from A to B, but also a rising panoramic view of the Dnipro is available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00). River and the forested left bank. After perusing the art and Taxis are always on hand and can take you to the city centre souvenirs of Andrew’s Descent (Andriivs’kyi uzviz), you for approximately 50Hr. The Demiivska metro station (blue may forego “Andrew’s Ascent” and catch the funicular at line) is right near the bus station. Just go round McDonalds, Poshtova ploscha metro. You will be delivered just behind pass a subway and find the metro entrance to your right. the spectacular St. Michael’s Cathedral. Fares are 1.50Hr for TSENTRALNYI AVTOVOKZAL adults, and children under seven ride free. =H-5, Nauky prosp. 1/2, Demiivska, tel. (+380) 44 527 99 86. Open 05:00 - 24:00. CAR RENTAL Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy PUBLIC TRANSPORT the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits A plethora of mass transit options are available to get you are 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads (there is 110 around Kyiv. But despite the trolley buses (electric buses), trams, km/h speed limit at Kyiv-Odesa road) and 130 on highways. buses, the metro, microbuses and minivans, it’s still not enough A zero tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine. to prevent frequent overcrowding. Don’t take the jostling per- Check our advises on how to drive a car in Ukraine. sonally, don’t inhale too deeply but do give up your seat to the AVIS elderly and mothers with children. Public transport starts run- Also at Boryspil’ Airport, Terminal F, tel.: (+380) 44 591 70 09, ning around 05:45 and closes down a bit after midnight. [email protected].=H-4, Yams’ka 72, Lybids’ka, In the metro, purchase your one way blue token for 2Hr tel. (+380) 44 502 20 10, fax (+380) 44 502 20 14, www. from the expressionless booth attendant or from the auto- avis.com.ua/en. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.  matic dispensers. Proceed to the row of gates, insert your token and wait a second for the red light to turn green so EUROPCAR the jaws of death don’t maim you. There are three lines in Car and minivan rental. Chauffeur service is available.=J-4, Kyiv - M1 (red line), M2 (blue line) and M3 (green line). Statonavodnyts’ka 29, Druzhby narodiv, tel. (+380) Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses can be pur- 44 220 35 00/(+380) 50 310 24 27, [email protected], chased for 1.50Hr from street kiosks or from conductors www.europcar.ua.  and the driver on board. You should immediately validate HERTZ your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets Rental of cars and minivans. One-way rentals. Chauffeur around you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a available.=Zdolbunivs’ka 7D, Pozniaky, tel. (+380) 40Hr fine by not one but two roaming inspectors. All tick- 44 492 32 70, fax (+380) 44 492 32 73, www.hertz.ua/ ets are good for one journey only. en. Open 09:00 - 18:00. 

departure datedeparture time number of the carriage (vagon)

number of the train

to/from stations seat/berth number

passenger’s name final price arriving date and time

An example of a train ticket

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 7 City Basics Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to BASIC DATA any international alert and you have documents which prove your right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine Population you will need to obtain relevant authorisation documents Kyiv 761 929 from the State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Ukraine 45 553 000 Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (J-3, Smolskoho Area 10, tel. (+380) 322 75 80 81/72 79 91.) All customs declara- Ukraine 603,700 sq km tions, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept through- Kyiv out the period of your stay, and must be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. Ethnic composition Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, Belarusian 0.6%, Mol- dovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, Bulgarian 0.4%, Hun- DRINKING garian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to other 1.8%. boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol con- Local time tent is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its brands can find their favourites at finer shops and estab- neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. lishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether it’s Ukrain- CRIME AND SAFETY ian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some After 3 months of protests, violent police actions, and de point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. facto uncontrolled situation, calm has returned to Kyiv. Since the security forces pulled back at the end of Febru- ary 2014 and the new government has been established, HEALTH & EMERGENCY Ukrainian and other media present report that there has Emergency telephone numbers: been no surge in crime, no looting, and no retribution ex- Ambulance 103 Police 102 Fire 101 acted on political opponents. Kyiv, in fact, has always been a rather safe place for foreign The public health care system is lacking in every way. Hospi- tourists. However as in most cities, flashing large amounts tals are filthy and not all those working in them are not what of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear one would consider competent. Most are underpaid so be in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all prepared to pay at every step of the way. It is a good idea to times. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to carry at get Travel Medical Insurance. It can be bought here as well as least a copy of their passport with them at all times. abroad and actually works. Usually they send you to a de- cent hospital or even a good dental clinic. They will call an ambulance if needed as well. It is good to have a local call CUSTOMS the insurance company rep here for you. If you are uninsured If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of and need an ambulance it would be good to have someone customs duties and taxes: who knows the language call and explain the situation. They Alcohol: one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of wine. usually bring a doctor actually do a pretty good job in di- agnosing and treating the patient sometimes making a trip Tobacco: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. to hospital unnecessary. Be prepared to pay something. Also Other goods: a person can bring in food products free of there are several private clinics, which are clean and up to customs duties and taxes if their total value does not exceed western standards and the staff are well qualified. If you re- €200. However, food products should not total more than ally need help in an emergency do not hesitate to call your two kilogrammes, and there should not be more than one consulate. They can help to arrange things, even a medical package of the same product. Goods with a total value of less evacuation. For a list of contacts, please go to p.54. than €1000 may be brought in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods is greater than €1000, but less than €10000 they will need to be declared on a customs STREET SMARTS personal declaration form and you should pay 10% duty plus Street вулиця (vul.) (VU-lytsia) 20% VAT. If the value of the goods is greater than €10000, the Square площа (pl.) (PLO-scha) goods will be subject to clearance in accordance with the Avenue проспект (prosp.) (pro-SPEKT) import declaration requirements for imported cargo. Boulevard бульвар (bul’v.) (bul’-VAR) Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or Bridge міст (mist) taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask you to Highway шосе (shose) (sho-SE) make a written declaration in relation to them. Lane провулок (prov.) (pro-VU-lok)

8 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com City Basics MARKET VALUES

How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonald’s Big Mac 18,00Hr €1,78 $2,25 Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr €0,32 $0,40 Snickers bar 6,00Hr €0,59 $0,75 Litre of vodka 50,00Hr €4,94 $6,26 Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 5,00Hr €0,49 $0,62 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr €1,33 $1,69 Public transport ticket 1,25Hr €0,12 $0,16 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,50Hr €1,04 $1,31 Official exchange rates (as of March 1): €1 – 13.56Hr US$1 – 9.75Hr £1 – 16.21Hr LANGUAGE SMARTS Banks exchange rates (as of March 1): The country’s official language is Ukrainian. Since inde- €1 – 13.58Hr US$1 – 9.86Hr £1 – 16.00Hr pendence in 1991, it has become much more popular and widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is MONEY Ukrainian truly predominant. The following is a list of some of the most common The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr, UAH), which re- words and phrases a person is likely to need. placed the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu) Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia) haven’t been transported to Russia or taken back in time to Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka) the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the You’re welcome Прошу (PRO-shu) past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu) 200 and 500 hryvnias. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte) with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no Yes/No Так/Ні (tak)/(ні) problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo) better from central street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu) need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu) can find a number of ATMs around Kyiv and many hotels Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’) Where is…? Де знаходиться...? (de zna-KHO-dytsia) and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Right, left Право, ліво (PRA-vo, LI-vo) Express is not very popular. There have been scattered re- ports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so FEDEX you may want to think twice before charging it. =Kikvidze 44, Druzhby Narodiv, tel. (+380)44 495 20 20, fax (+380) 44 495 20 39, www.fedex.com. Open MAIL & PHONE 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. POST TNT Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so =Moskovs’kyi prosp. 28A, Petrivka, tel. (+380) 44 often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at 207 07 70, fax (+380) 44 207 07 80, www.tnt.com. Open its intended destination, which is quite annoying. Connec- 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.  tions involving fixed line telephones are often bad, some- times incorporating another conversation into yours or go- UPS ing dead in mid-conversation. Mobile phones are already =H-4, Mechnykova 20, Klovs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 280 very popular, and the internet is getting there. 00 00, fax (+380) 44 280 10 19, www.ups.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. CENTRAL POST OFFICE =C-4, Khreschatyk 22, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. FIXED LINE TELEPHONE (+380) 230 08 3, www.ukrposhta.ua. Open 08:00 - 20:00. To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make a long-distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone DHL and then dial the city code and number. To call Kyiv from Also at Ivana Mazepy 11B. Courier pick-up can be re- another town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Kyiv’s city code quested.=A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 2, L’va Tolstoho, (44) and then the number. To make an international call, tel. (+380) 44 490 26 00, www.dhl.com.ua. Open 09:00 dial 0, wait for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. code, city code and number itself.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 9 City Basics

Peyzazhna Alley - the Alice in Wonderland World

MOBILE PHONES There are 2 types of mobile phone numbers in Kyiv: direct VISAS numbers (which do not differ from the Kyiv fixed line num- Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andor- bers, and may be dialed as such), and mobile numbers (these ra, Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, should be preceded by 0 and the operator’s code). SMS may Georgia, Mongolia, the U.S., Canada, Japan and the not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine countries of the CIS - except Turkmenistan - can enter are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else a contract or show your documents to use the local provid- needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian em- er’s service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, bassy or consulate abroad before travelling. mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also Travel to Russia isn’t so simple. All foreign visitors, with the buy cards to refill your account at these same places. exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an KYIVSTAR immigration card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you =B-4, Khreschatyk 13, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 will need to register with the local police (hotels are usually 466 04 66, www.kyivstar.ua. willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. LIFE For additional information, call (+380) 32 275 24 63. =A-5, Besarabska pl. 2, Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 800 Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andor- 205 433, www.life.com.ua/index.php?lng=en. Open ra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. 30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas MTS without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we =B-4, Khreschatyk 15, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state 240 00 00, www.mts.com.ua/eng. travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national medical insurance, and must register their passports with lo- ROAMING cal police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine use +380 followed by willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile For more information, call (+380) 322 37 27 30. phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate SMOKING or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form Rigorous law on smoking prohibition takes effect nation- and photos. For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21. wide on December 16, 2012. It sets a total ban on smok- Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., ing in restaurants, bars, clubs and cafes (except open ter- Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American races), cultural, medical, educational and sport institutions countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 (including playgrounds and stadiums), public transport days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa (including stops), underpasses (subways), and inside at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call apartment buildings (including stairs and lifts). All other (+380) 44 234 00 40. premises and buildings (including hotels, hostels, airports, Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European railway terminals) should have designated smoking areas Schengen zone. For more information call the following con- equipped with exhaust ventilation. The law also sets fines sulates: Polish (+380) 322 97 08 61, Hungarian (+380) 322 64 from 51–10,000Hr for anyone breaking the law. 58 22, Slovakian consulate in Kyiv (+380) 44 234 06 06.

10 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com History authority of hetmans, but the most prominent hetmans - such PRE-CHRISTIAN TIMES as Petro Konashevych-Sahaidachnyi, Bohdan Khmelnyts’kyi and Ivan Mazepa - exercised enormous influence over city life. By the end of the second millennium BC, the prominent Tryp- illian Culture had ceased to exist. Nomadic, Cimmerians, and Scythians occupied the region. The Scythians developed a UNDER THE RUSSIA EMPIRE class of wealthy aristocrats who constructed elaborate graves In 1648, a new Ukrainian state arose as Cossack leader Bohdan filled with richly worked articles of gold and others precious Khmelnytskyi led a successful uprising against Polish rule. How- materials. Their power was sufficient enough to repel an inva- ever, treaties with Poland did not bring peace. Khmelnytskyi sion by Persian King Darius I in about 513 BC. In 700-600 BC, signed a protection agreement with the Russian tsar in 1654 Greek colonies appeared on the Black Sea coast. One of the which marked the beginning of Russian influence in Ukraine. first cities constructed was Kafa (now Feodosia). Chersonesus, Poland and Russia divided Ukraine in 1667: the western side of the second major Greek city, was established on the south- the Dnieper River belonged to Poland, while the eastern side west coast of Crimea. Germanic tribes invaded the region in went under Russian protection. 270, followed by the Huns in 375. By the end of 18th century Cossacks troops were totally liqui- dated with increasing pressure, and a ban of the Ukrainian lan- guage and culture. At the end of 19th century Kyiv had become a large industrial and transportation hub.

USSR WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution caused much confusion in Russia. This allowed for the formation of The Ukrainian People’s Republic in Kyiv on 20 November 1917. On 1 De- cember of the same year, the Ukrainian Soviet Republic was established in Kharkiv. In 1918, after the collapse of the Aus- trian-Hungarian Empire in November, the Western Ukraine Golden Pectoral from Scythian times. It can be seen in People’s Republic declared itself an independent state in the Museum of Historical Valuables Lviv. On 22 January 1919, a union of the two Ukrainian states was announced, but was quickly defeated by the KYIVAN RUS White Russian and then the Red Armies in the East, and by Poland in the West. The Soviet Union was formed and According to legend, Kyiv’s first settlement was founded in included the Ukrainian Soviet Socialist Republic. Millions of 482 by three brothers, Prince Kyi (the oldest), Scheck and Ukrainians were deported to Siberia, and the artificially-en- Khoryv, and their sister, Lybid. They supposedly sailed down gineered famines of 1921-1922 and 1932-1933 killed up to the Dnieper River and established a settlement at the top of 10 million people. In 1934, the Ukrainian Republic’s capital four hills. In the 8th - 9th centuries, Kyiv became the centre of was moved from Kharkiv to Kyiv. On 22 June 1941, The Ger- the first Eastern Slavic State, known as Kyivan Rus. Volodymyr mans invaded the USSR, and Kyiv was seized in September. the Great became prince of Kyivan Rus in 980. The state flour- Kyiv was liberated in November 1943. It is estimated that ished under his leadership, turning it into a political, econom- around 8 million Ukrainian soldiers and citizens were killed ic and cultural power in Europe. In 988 Volodymyr resolved during WWII, and Ukraine suffered a greater material losses to abandon paganism in favour of monotheism. He chose than Russia, Germany, France or Poland. Until the collapse Christianity as the state religion and was christened in Cher- of the Soviet Union, Kyiv was the capital of the Ukrainian sonesus. Kyivan Rus princes ruled until almost the end of the Republic. p. 49 13 century, when Batu Khan, the grandson of Genghis Khan conquered Kyivan Rus in 1240 and burned down the city of Kyiv. In the 14th century Kyiv was taken over by Lithuania.

COSSACKS In the 15th c entury Crimean Tatars dominated Ukraine’s vast southern expanses and carried out devastating raids on Ukrainian territory and annihilated Kyiv in 1482. Gradually a force was formed to protect the southern frontier. These daring troops were the Cossacks. The Cossack movement developed and spread throughout the whole of Ukraine. The Lithuanian authorities granted Kyiv the old European code of municipal self-government. Formally, according to the “Magdeburg Right”, the citizens of Kyiv were not subject to the Ukrainian Cossacks

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 11 Orthodox Easter

UKRAINIAN TRADITIONS Easter This year the Catholics and Protestants celebrates Easter together with Orthodox Church on April 20, what is – in this part of the world - the biggest holiday of the year. Coming after seven weeks of strict lent, during which the faithful abstain from alcohol and any animal products (in- cluding meat, fish, eggs, milk, butter and cheese), it is no suprise that Easter is such a big deal. It can also come as a surprise to many outsiders how strictly lent is observed in Ukraine: so much so that many restaurants adapt their menus to make sure they stay attractive to the faithful. You will see a lot of people with blooming willow branches com- ing from church on April 13. Another Easter morning recipe: take a basket, put in it Easter bread, some much-observed tradition during this painted eggs, and whatever else you want to have blessed last week of lent is Clean Thursday... EASTER EGGS Lent ends with Passion Week, starting on Palm Sunday, Ukrainian kids have not yet adopted the western tradi- which is called Willow Sunday in Ukraine. Palm trees – you tion of hunting for Easter eggs on Easter Sunday yet, but will not be surprised to hear - do not grow in Ukraine, and that is not to say the egg has no role to play in a Ukrainian so the locals have to make do willow branches to mark Easter; far from it in fact. Every visitor to Ukraine should the day when Jesus entered Jerusalem. You will see a lot look out for traditional Ukrainian Easter eggs, which of people with blooming willow branches coming from make fantastic presents and souvenirs. You can buy them church on April 13. Another much-observed tradition on Andriyivs’ky Uzviz and in a number of souvenir stores during this last week of lent is Clean Thursday. You are which offer a wide variety of them, from cheap wooden supposed to clean everything in your house, including eggs to real, hand painted dried hen eggs. You can also yourself, in preparation for Easter Sunday. buy very expensive and elaborately decorated wooden Easter Saturday is given over to painting and colouring or ceramic eggs that are in themselves real pieces of eggs, and to the baking of a special Easter bread, Paski. It art. The most impressive Easter eggs – and those most is usually round, and richly decorated. Some have the letters familiar to westerners - are the jewel and gold covered XB written in plain view. It is the abbreviation for “Christ is Faberge eggs, created by the Russian Tsar’s court jeweller risen” in Ukrainian (Khrystos Voskres). There is also a slightly Karl Faberge at the end of the 19th century. different paska, which resembles a cheesecake. All this spe- The patterns and colours on contemporary eggs are deep- cial food is supposed to be cooked before Easter day. ly rooted in history. Many are borrowed from Tripillian The Orthodox Church begins its Easter service on Satur- culture, which existed on the territory of Ukraine about day night, and it continues through Sunday morning. The 6000 years ago. In Pagan culture the egg symbolised life, city administration usually ensures public transport runs though the meaning changed slightly in 988 when Kyiv throughout the night. Thousands of believers go to differ- adopted Christianity. In Christianity, the egg represented ent Churches all over town with baskets full of Easter food. eternal life and the Resurrection of Christ. After the festive services – which usually come complete There are in general two kinds of coloured eggs in with joyful choir music - priests go outside the Church to Ukraine today: krashanky (dyed in solid colour), and bless the food. People line up in a circle around the church pysanky (decorated with different patterns and colours). building and patiently await their blessing. The traditional dyes have always been home made, and For the whole of the following week people greet each by and large the tradition continues. The most popular other with the words Khrystos Voskres, and answer dye is an onion peel boiled in water. The intricate pro- Voistynu Voskres, which means “He has truly risen.” This cess of painting a pysanky egg involves multiple steps is followed by three kisses on the cheeks, which can be and drawing various patterns, often more than once, on a bit unusual for western sensibilities, but which is per- the eggshell with wax. The egg is then immersed into fectly acceptable here. It is recommended that you do progressively darker dyes, and the wax is melted off with not reject this act of well wishing so as not to hurt any- a candle between each stage of colouring. Some of the one’s feelings. The central gates that hide the altars of artists who sell painted eggs will be happy to give les- Orthodox Churches, and which usually stay closed, are sons in this traditional technique. opened during Easter week to show the importance of Every colour and pattern has its own meaning. For exam- the holiday. Everyone is allowed to see this – the most sa- ple, red symbolises love, black - eternity, and blue - trust. cred place in the Church. It is a great opportunity to see The triangle stands for the Trinity, a circle - eternity and the some of the greatest treasaures of the Orthodux Church. sun, and the hen - fertility.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 13 Events Kyiv hosts some great performances in a range of artistic 30 March 2014 fields, from opera and ballet to classical music and art exhi- ENSEMBLE OF SOLOISTS KYIVSKA KAMERETA. bitions. The best part is that you can visit such high-quality Conductor - Valeriy Matiukhin. The programme features G. events for much less than in the rest of Europe. Students Mahler, K. Atterberg, F. List, A. Pärt, V. Silvestrov, E. Stanko- really have it good with their discounts. Films are usually vych. Tickets 50 - 100 Hr. dubbed in Ukrainian without English subtitles, so unless it’s a Jackie Chan movie it may be hard to follow the plot. Pre- 31 March 2014 pare to book tickets at the desk as you would for a baseball THE NIGHT OF CHAMBER OPERA. or football match, as you will be asked to choose a particular With the support of the Embassy of Italy in Ukraine. The seat - and you may pay a little more for the upper-deck. programme features D. Cimarosa, W. Mozart. With the par- ticipation of Academic Symphonic Orchestra of the Nation- al Philharmonic of Ukraine. Tickets 50-100 Hr. CLASSICAL MUSIC 01 April 2014 NATIONAL PHILHARMONIC NATIONAL ACADEMIC BRASS ORCHESTRA. A unique and moving place to unwind to classical music. Conductor - Mykhailo Moroz. The programme features G. Artists perform close to the audience allowing for an in- Rossini, J. Strauss, S. Guno, S. Rachmaninoff, E. Morricone, timate musical experience. The atmosphere is intriguing G. Penders. and the acoustics are surprisingly good for a box.=D-4, 02 April 2014 Volodymyrs’kyi uzviz 2, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. NATIONAL ACADEMIC SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA. (+380) 44 278 16 97, www.filarmonia.com.ua. Conductor - Fedir Gluschenko (Russia). Soloist - Oleg Poly- 24 March 2014 anskyi (piano part). The programme features J. Sibelius NATIONAL SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA. - Symphony #1, S. Prokofiev - Concert #1 for piano with Conductor - Volodymyr Sirenko. The programme features orchestra, A. Scriabin - The Poem of Ecstasy. works by A. Scriabin, N. Medtner, S. Rachmaninoff. Tickets 50 - 100Hr. 03 April 2014 THE ART OF PIANO PLAY. 26 March 2014 Performance by Pavel Nersesyan (Russia). The programme SHINING WALTZ features P. Hhindemit - Dances, F. Shubert - Piano Sonata Piano part by Tetiana Andrievska, violin part - Igor Andrievs- A major, F. Shubert - F. List - Serenade, The Forest King, F. kyi. The program features works by F. Schubert, F. List, E. List - Sonata B minor. Grieg, M. Ravel, C. Saint-Saëns. Tickets 45 - 90Hr. 04 April 2014 27 March 2014 VIOLIN MUSIC. THE NIGHTS OF UKRAINIAN MUSIC. With the support of the Embassy of Italy in Ukraine. Solo- Heritage and contemporary. National Academic Orchestra ist - Domenico Nordio (Italy). With the participation of Aca- of the Folk Instruments. Conductor - Viktor Gutsal. Tickets demic Symphonic Orchestra of the National Philharmonic. 50 - 100Hr. Conductor - Mykola Diadura. The programme features L. Beethoven - The Concert for Violin with Orchestra, Sym- phony #3 Eroica.

EXHIBITIONS Until 31 March, Manufactura Art Gallery RURAL LANDSCAPES «Rural Landscape», the foundation of which was the works of Anton Hudzykevych - young Ukrainian artist whose tal- ent is recognised in Ukraine and abroad. He is a permanent participant of annual exhibitions and projects in Ukraine and his paintings can be found in the Livadia Palace, Symphonic Orchestra performs in the Philharmonic Hall Kroshytskiy Art Museum, Ukrainian Modern Art Museum, private collections in Ukraine and abroad. The eshibition 28 March 2014 will also show several works of landscape artists of inter- ALL SYMPHONIES BY P. TCHAIKOVSKY. national level, prominent artists of Ukraine,whose names Academic Symphonic Orchestra of the National Philhar- speak for themselves: Nicholas Bortnikov (1916 - 1997), Ser- monic of Ukraine. Conductor - Roman Kofman. The pro- gey Bakaev (1922 –2010), Victor Efimenko (born in 1957). gramme features Symphony #1 (Winter Dreams), Sympho- ny #6 (Pathetic). Tickets 30 - 120Hr.

14 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Events Until 14 April 2014, J Grether Art Gallery EAST OPERA & BALLET The exhivition represents works by Renat Ramazanov and Alexandr Sybru. The ciltural and patriotic theme of the ex- TARAS SHEVCHENKO NATIONAL OPERA hibition is as actual in the view of all changes happening in Home of the country’s most famous opera and ballet kraine now. The models for the paintings were Crimean ta- company. This is a must visit venue for all travellers. tars, as one of the national minorities in Ukraine, known for Performances are always outstanding and the hum- their fight for the justice and yearning for their homeland. ble ticket prices make this the city’s best value in en- tertainment. =A-4, Volodymyrska 50, tel. (+380) 44 Until 27 April 2014, Pinchuk Ary Centre 234 71 65, www.opera.com.ua. Tickets 40-200 Hr. JAN FABRE. TRIBUTE TO HIËRONYMUS BOSCH IN CONGO March TRIBUTE TO BELGIAN CONGO Opera The first solo show in Eastern Europe by the Belgian artist Jan Aleko S. Rachmaninoff. 25 19:00 Fabre. The show features 36 astonishing mosaics, 23 sculp- Bolero Maurice Ravel. tures and 2 major triptychs, including 28 new works created especially for the exhibition in the PinchukArtCentre. 29 19:00 Il Barbiere di Siviglia G. Rossini. With a two-chapter exhibition Fabre continues elaborating Ballet his critical reflections on the Belgium’s colonial past, a theme that appeared in his oeuvre in 2002 when he used millions 27 19:00 Giselle A. Adam. of beetle wings to created a monumental ceiling painting “Heaven of Delight” for the Royal Palace of Belgium in Brussels. 28 19:00 La Sylphide H. Levenshold. 30 19:00 Lilea K. Dankevych. April Opera 03 19:00 Carmen G. Bizet. 04 19:00 La traviata G. Verdi. 06 19:00 L’elisir d’amore G. Donizetti. 09 19:00 Boris Godunov M. Mussorgsky. Aleko S. Rachmaninoff. 11 19:00 Chopiniana F. Chopin. 12 19:00 Don Carlos G. Verdi. Chornobyl video installation 16 19:00 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky. 18 19:00 Aida G. Verdi. Until 27 April 2014. Pinchuk art Centre 20 19:00 Natalka Poltavka M. Lysenko. (DE-)CONSTRUCTION. REALITY AND FICTION This exhibition features three videos by Pierre Huyghe (“The 23 19:00 Rigoletto G. Verdi. host and the cloud”, 2010, France), Christian Marclay (“Cross- 25 19:00 Il Barbiere di Siviglia G. Rossini. fire”, 2007, US) and Diana Thater (“Chernobyl”, 2011, US). These 30 19:00 Un ballo in maschera G. Verdi. major video installations share the theme of constructing and/ or deconstructing culturally defined concepts. The works es- Ballet tablish a tension between reality and fiction, challenging the 01 19:00 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky. viewers’ relations towards these notions. Schedule of screen- 02 19:00 Serge Lifar Tribute Concert. ings: 12:30, 14:34, 16:38, 18:42. Located on the 3rd floor. 05 19:00 Romeo and Juliet S. Prokofiev. Until 27 April 2014. Pinchuk art Centre 08 19:00 The Sleeping Beauty P. Tchaikovsky. “WHERE THERE’S A WILL, THERE’S A WAY” On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the Elena Pinchuk 10 19:00 La Bayadere L. Minkus. Karmen - Suite G. Bizet - R. Shcedrin. ANTIAIDS Foundation, the PinchukArtCentre and the ANTI- 13 19:00 AIDS Foundation present a special exhibition dedicated to the Sheherazade N. Rimsky-Korsakov. theme of HIV/AIDS in contemporary art. The project includes 15 19:00 Viennese waltz J. Strauss. iconic works by Damien Hirst, Ai Weiwei, Nan Goldin and Félix 17 19:00 La Sylphide H. Levenshold. González-Torres. Five new pieces were created especially for the exhibition, including a large scale outdoor video projection 19 19:00 The Forest Song M. Skorylsky. by Tony Oursler; a multimedia project created by Nan Goldin in 22 19:00 Raymonda A. Glazunov. Ukraine in the lead up to the exhibition; a video by Ai Weiwei; a 24 19:00 Don Quixote L. Minkus. photo by Sergiy Bratkov; and a performance by Ilya Chichkan.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 15 Events

MUSIC EVENTS CIRCUS 22 Mar - Mgzavrebi @ Carribean Club Tickets 60-180Hr.=G-2, Peremohy pl. 2, Universytet, 30 Mar - Kosheen @ Sentrum tel. (+380) 44 486 39 27. Shows Thu, Fri - 19:00; Sat, Sun - 13:00 and 17:00. 2 Apr - Nino Katamadze @ October Palace 4 Apr - Skryabin @ Stereo Plaza THEATRES 9 Apr - Illaria @ The House of Painters CAFÉ-THEATRE KOLESO 11 Apr - Flëur @ The House of Officers The audience is invited to participate in humorous, folk- 25 Apr - Turetsky Choir @ Ukraine Palace lore-based programmes staged in this café setting.=C-2, 25 Apr - Steve Vai @ Sentrum Andriivs’kyi uzviz 8, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 05 27, www.koleso.teatr.kiev.ua. Tickets 20-50Hr. 10 May - Peter Gabriel @ Ukraine Palace 11 May - Nina Matvienko @ Musical Academy IVAN FRANKO NATIONAL ACADEMIC DRAMA 16 May - Korn & Soulfly @ Stereo Plaza The theatre was built in 1898, and the theatre troop, named after the famous Ukrainian writer Ivan Franko,

16 May - С.К.А.Й. @ Yunost Club has been performing since 1926. The repertoire consists 17 May - White lies @ Sentrum of classical, dramatic and musical performances. Perfor- 23 May - Antytila @ Sentrum mances are in Ukrainian.=C-5, I.Franka pl. 3, Khres- chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 59 21, www.franko-theatre. 25 May - W.A.S.P. @ Bingo Enterntainment kiev.ua. Tickets 15 - 150Hr. 30 May - Jesse Cook @ October Palace 31 May - Boombox @ Stereo Plaza KYIV ACADEMY DOLL THEATRE This theatre replaced an old movie house near European 8 June - Mireille Mathieu @ Ukraine Palace Sq. There are two halls in the thearte: the large hall on 17 June - Tori Amos @ October Palace the first floor hosts up to 300 guests, the small one on the second floor hosts up to 100. The repertoire includes Tickets to most major events are available from: a wide variety of children’s shows and ticket prices are KARABAS very reasonable.=D-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 1A, Maid- =A-5, Metrograd mall, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 04 99, www. 44 590 55 50, www.karabas.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00. akadempuppet.kiev.ua. PARTER =C-4, Horodetskoho 8 (Red Double Bus), Maid- KYIV YOUNG THEATRE an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 237 87 87, www. Innovative performance styles based on classical produc- parter.ua. Open 12:00 - 20:00. tions, incorporating modern interpretations of historical experience.=B-4, H-2, Prorizna 17, Zoloti Vorota, tel. Concert halls: (+380) 44 234 62 51. MUSICAL ACADEMY =C-4, Horodetskoho 1-3/11, Khreschatyk, tel. LESYA UKRAINKA RUSSIAN DRAMA THEATRE (+380) 44 279 12 42. This tradition-rich Russian venue was established in 1926 PALACE OF SPORT and is often referred to as the ‘theatre of the human =A-5, Sportyvna pl. 1, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) soul’. Performances are in Russian language.=B-4, H-3, 44 246 74 06, www.spalace.com.ua. B.Khmel’nyts’koho 5, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 234 42 23, www.rusdram.com.ua. Tickets 7-75Hr. SENTRUM =C-4, Shota Rustaveli 16A, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 67 171 16 16, www.sentrum.com.ua. STEREO PLAZA ART GALLERIES =F-4, Chervonozoryanyi prosp. 119, tel. (+380) 44 BRUCIE COLLECTIONS 222 80 40, stereoplaza.com.ua. The gallery operates since 2008, specializing in photog- OCTOBER PALACE raphy exclusively. The collection contains photographs =C-4, Instytutska 1, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. by Helmut Newton, Sebastiao Salgado, Leni Riefenstahl, (+380) 44 279 15 82. Albert Watson, Howard Schatz, as well as works by the best local artists.=G-2, Artema 55B, Luk’yanivs’ka, UKRAINE PALACE tel. (+380) 44 353 12 34/(+380) 44 205 42 64, www. .=H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 103, Palats Ukraina, bruciecollections.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - tel. (+380) 44 247 24 76. 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Free entrance.

16 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Events JAKOB GRETHER ART-CENTRE The Jakob Grether art-centre represents contemporary art, KYIV DAYS mostly in paintings and sculpture. The exhibitions shows works by the most significant Ukrainian artists as well as For those of us who live here - or simply come to visit young talents and different international projects. The - the capital is unquestionably at its very best on Kyiv exhibitions are scheduled to change every month. Admis- Day, which this year falls on May 25th. Every district sion is free.=E-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, Bilshovyk Shop- of town hosts a steady flow of great entertainment in ping Mall, block A, 3-7 floor, Shuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) many of the city’s parks and on its many outdoor con- 44 200 07 60, [email protected], www.greter-art. cert stages. Amateur and professional artists share their com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. varied talents with huge audiences all day long. Artists from all over the country come to Kyiv with their KARAS GALLERY arts and crafts, meaning that you can often find great A one stop shop for 19th century architecture and con- bargains on souvenirs, if you shop around. A number temporary Ukrainian art on Kyiv’s most famous street. of street traders will charge more at this time of year: Karas Gallery created one of the most systematic collec- whatever you buy make sure you know how much it tions of Contemporary Art in Ukraine – over 300 works by costs elsewhere. Every year thousands of people fill the most famous Ukrainian artists. =C-2, Andriivs’kyi uz- Andriivs’kyi Uzviz, looking for bargains or simply enjoy- viz 22A, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 238 65 ing the atmosphere. The crowd is usually so huge that 31, [email protected], www.karasgallery.com. just crossing what is a barrow street can take ten min- Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. utes. It’s all part of the fun, however. M17 Аvant-garde art gallery is a pioneer, a scout in the con- temporary art world. M17 Gallery has a symbolic meaning, codified in this strict minimalist abbreviation: “M” – young (ukr – “Molod”), 17 - time of maturity.=H-5, Gor’koho 102-104, Palats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 596 20 30, [email protected], m17.com.ua/en. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

PINCHUKARTCENTRE PinchukArtCentre is one of the biggest international cen- tres for contemporary art of the 21st century in the Eastern Europe. Among its main activities – exhibition running, Khreschatyk, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, and European cultural projects support, stipend granting to talented art- Square will all be dotted with different sized stages and ists, etc. The first “New Space” exhibition, opened at Pinchu- will host a variety of performances; they will also have kArtCentre from 16th of September till 16th of December plenty of places to eat and drink. At the end of the day 2006, has been attended by 35 000 persons.=A-5, H-3, there are fireworks and concerts way past midnight in Chervonoarmiys’ka 1-3, Arena Complex, L’va Tolsto- the city’s central squares. ho, tel. (+380) 44 590 08 58/(+380) 44 494 11 48, info@ pinchukartcentre.org, www.pinchukartcentre.org/en. Whatever you do on Kyiv Day, wear your most comfort- Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. able walking shoes, dress appropriately for the weather conditions (it can still be changeable at this time of TRYPTYCH year), and enjoy yourself. It will be the best memory Contemporary decorative art.=C-3, H-2, Desiatynna 13, you will take home from Kyiv. Poshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 279 09 49, info@ triptych-art.com, www.triptych-art.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.

TSEKH GALLERY The main feature of Tsekh Gallery is a “production” of new names. The gallery was created in 2008 and since then has become the most active show ground. Its strategy is inter- esting both for attendants and for art-critics. On the gallery walls, there are always a provocation and surprise, which cause ambiguous reaction of viewers and “transpositions” inside the art-field.=M-6, Frunze 69, Tarasa Shevchen- ka, tel. (+380) 95 245 78 81/(+380) 44 591 13 69, www. zeh.com.ua. Open 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 17 Where to stay As with all emerging Eastern European countries, the quality and service on offer in Ukraine’s hotels and apartments can SYMBOL KEY vary to the greatest degree, and Kyiv is only now beginning to showcase its traditions of fine service. Although there is #Air conditioning Credit cards accepted still a shortage of upscale accommodation in the city centre, many smaller and less prestigious hotels and apartments are &Child-friendly Conference facilities beginning to appear. Private companies offering newly reno- Fitness centre 'Facilities for the disabled vated apartments can meet the needs of almost any clien- tele, and renting an apartment on a nightly basis is a sensible $LAN connection Guarded parking Restaurant >Pet-friendly

Sauna Swimming pool

Fireplace )Wifi VAT (20%) and breakfast included unless otherwise stated

HOLIDAY INN KIEV Holiday Inn has found its place in our city on a quiet lane locked between two business streets. It features all your The Brand new Hilton Hotel is scheduled to open in March 2014! Holiday Inn favourites including the usual agreeable 208 rooms. Facilities include business centre, conference room, alternative to a hotel. It’s considerably cheaper, and the ad- restaurant and bar with terrace, fitness area on 11th floor vantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are with panoramic view. Wi-Fi is free all over the hotel. In the real. Hotels remain most people’s first choice however, and best of HI traditions, the hotel is perfect for business travel- new places are being constructed all over the city. Like Kyiv In lers and you know exactly what you are going to get for your Your Pocket, the city is growing... Prices include breakfast and money. =H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 100, Olimpiiska, VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated. tel. (+380) 44 363 30 00, fax (+380) 44 363 30 03, sales. [email protected], www.holidayinn.com/Kiev. 208 rooms (180 Standards €150, 26 Executives €175, 2 Suites €225). CREAM OF THE CROP #' )9999 FAIRMONT GRAND HOTEL KYIV A great Luxury hotel right on the river Dnipro. Seldom HYATT REGENCY KYIV have we been more impressed by a hotel’s elegance. Hyatt Regency Kyiv is centrally located in the historical Marble floors, stained glass windows, lovely chandeliers, centre on Sofiivs’ka Square. The hotel is the ideal address and a stunning classic design and it goes on. Each of the for business and leisure travellers alike. With high-tech 258 rooms is fully equipped and beautifully designed with communications and ergonomic working areas, 234 spa- large comfy beds. There are also Presidential and Royal cious deluxe rooms and 25 suites provide the perfect set- Suites for all you presidents, kings and queens. There are ting for the discerning global business traveller. Luxurious discounted rates for weekends and package offers are bathrooms with underfloor heating, deep-soaking baths available. The entire staff is friendly and great in English. and exceptional rain showers create a unique in-room ex- Their restaurant The Strand Grill is open to the public daily perience. State-of-the-art meeting and banquet facilities from 06:30-midnight. Breakfast is not included and costs with 1,000 square meters of function space accommodate 35€.=D-3, Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska 1, Posh- all needs, from small meetings to large-scale events. Luxu- tova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 322 88 88, fax (+380) 44 rious Spa Natural with its advanced treatments, a gym 322 88 99, [email protected], www.fairmont.com/ with the latest equipment, a 25-meter swimming pool, kyiv. 258 rooms (202 Fairmont rooms €, 52 suites €, 1 restaurants and bars make Hyatt Regency Kyiv one of Presidential Suite €, 1 Royal Suite €, Rates €319 - 2000). the best hotels in Kyiv.=C-3, A.Tarasovoi 5A, Maidan #I&' J)99999 Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, fax (+380) 44 581 12 35, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. 234 rooms (standard €328 - 585, deluxe €353 - 610, club €378 - 635, HOTEL LISTING POLICY regency suite €578 - 835). #&$>'  )99999 Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room..

18 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay

OPERA ties available for meetings or banquets.=B-3, Yaroslaviv The Opera Hotel is a luxury boutique hotel which offers some- Val 22, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 492 22 00, fax thing unique for its guests. Staying in the Opera Hotel, you (+380) 44 492 22 10, reservations.kiev@radissonblu. will not only enjoy the exquisite interior design, feast on fabu- com, www.radissonblu.com.ua/hotel-kiev. 255 rooms lous food and enjoy a glass of exquisite wine near a fireplace, (183 standard €202 - 293, 49 business class €252 - 343, but you will also feel right at home, although home may be junior Suite €303 - 394, suite €626, 1 Presidental €1111). oceans away. The Opera Hotel is located just 15 minutes from Breakfast is not included in the price of a standard room.  downtown Kyiv and Khreschatyk Street allowing one to be in #&$' )9999 touch with Kyiv’s business and social life, but away from the busy downtown area. Business club, lobby lounge, confer- RADISSON BLU KYIV PODIL ence rooms and spa and fitness club are all a part of the lux- A latest entry in Podil historical district for this famous hotel ury facilities offered to guests.=A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53, chain. Rooms are ranged traditionally for Radisson BLU world- Universytet, tel./fax (+380) 44 581 70 70, reservations@ wide from standards to suites, meanwhile if you’re a Presi- opera-hotel.com, www.opera-hotel.com. 136 rooms (clas- dent, the Presidential Suite awaits for you for about 10000Hr. sic 1900 - 2800Hr, standard 2200 - 3400Hr, superior 2800 There is a gym and convenient underground parking. The - 4000Hr, junior suite 4600 - 5800Hr, executive suite 7000 Starokyivsky Restaurant & Lounge has gorgeous marble fur- - 8200Hr). #$' 99999 nishing and a classic, elegant interior, creating an ideal dining atmosphere. The chef treats guests to delicious international RADISSON BLU and Ukrainian main courses, pastries and deluxe desserts. Radisson hotels worldwide have a reputation for excel- The wine list has an wide selection of international and local lence and Kyiv’s is no exception. The Radisson BLU Kyiv wines. There is seating for 70 and an average meal will run offers its guests wireless access to the Internet around the around 400Hr. There is a business lunch weekdays from 12:00- clock, and for the technologically challenged the IT-savvy 16:00 from 97Hr. The Cafe 17 is a nice bright coffee shop with a concierge is a classy touch. The spacious rooms, furnished street entrance. There are sandwiches, salads, and pastries all in three different styles, include plenty of satellite TV chan- at reasonable prices. =D-2, Bratska 17-19, Kontraktova nels, in-house movies, coffee/teamaker, a trouser press, Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 393 13 73, fax (+380) 44 393 13 77, safe and hairdryer. Business class rooms and suites are [email protected], www.radissonblu.ru/ more spacious and include a few extra perks like buffet hotel-kyiv-podil. 164 rooms (138 standards , 2 for disables breakfast and daily newspapers. The hotel is well geared- , 15 business rooms , 5 suites , 1 presidential ). #K up for events, with its state-of-the art conference facili-  )9999

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 19 Where to stay BOUTIQUE HOTEL RIVIERA UPMARKET Riviera hotel is located in the historical part of Kyiv - in Podil. Such a suitable location makes it easy to reach 11 MIRRORS DESIGN HOTEL main business and sightseeing areas of the city such as Either we did not noticed it before or it was covered with a Andriivs’kyi uzviz, Mykhailivs’ka and Sofiivs’ka squares green fence, but the building of this design hotel popped- and Khreschatyk street. Through the windows of your up suddenly in the very heart of the city centre, enclosed room you can enjoy the view of the Dnipro River and by embassies, theatres, and churches. The rooms are big historical Podil. Each room includes controlled air-condi- in a modern but incredibly spacious style with bathrooms tioning. Home-like cosiness, high-quality service and an designed as transparent glass cubes (highly recommend- individual approach to each guest makes Riviera Hotel ed for couples are staying there!). The windows overlook attractive to business travellers and tourists alike.=D-3, one of our favourite streets - Bohdana Khmelnytskoho. Sahaidachnoho 15, Poshtova ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 The amenities include the usual list found in upmarket 581 28 28, fax (+380) 44 581 38 38, info@rivierahotel. hotels.=A-3, Bohdana Khmelnytskoho 34A, Zoloti com.ua, www.rivierahotel.com.ua. 79 rooms (com- Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 581 11 11, info@11mirrors- fort €220, business €240, junior suite €290, execu- hotel.com, www.11mirrors-hotel.com. 49 rooms (19 tive suite €350, deluxe €420, presidental suite €1000). doubles €275, 10 junior suites €300, 20 suites €335).  #$')9999 #K' ) ALFAVITO CITY PARK HOTEL The elegant 4-star hotel is located in one of the business This is a new boutique hotel located in the cultural, histori- districts of central Kyiv next to Palats Ukraina metro station. cal business part of Kyiv, and has been recognised as one 251 cosy and spacious rooms are equipped with free high- of the best European style hotels in Ukraine. This quaint speed Wi-Fi, LCD satellite TV, telephone, individual air-con- hotel has 23 rooms fully equipped, with a modern, bright ditioning system, wide beds, comfortable working space, an design. Rooms cost from €145 per night with breakfast electronic safe and a mini-bar. PIANO restaurant offers gour- included. There is fax, photo copy, and a full range of busi- met international dishes and a buffet breakfast is also served ness services available on request and conference rooms here. Guest can enjoy a variety of Mediterranean meals in are available. The staff is warm and friendly and fluent the FORTE Café-bar, test grill menu in summertime Double in English. There is also a massage service available for Decker cafe, or relax in the lobby bar with a cup of genuine guests. There is no restaurant but the Café Bar is great with Viennese coffee. The hotel facilities include 7 conference- a limited menu at moderate prices. Café open 07:30-23:00, halls with 10 to 150 persons capacity, a business center, a con- Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00.=A-2, Vorovskoho 20A, tel. (+380) cierge service, an art gallery, a gym with 24h free access and 44 451 87 01/(+380) 44 503 77 90, fax (+380) 44 451 87 68 free private parking spaces. ALFAVITO is among Top Hotels 27, [email protected], www.cityparkhotel. on Tripadvisor (2013, 2014). Restaurant open 07:00-23:00. com.ua. 23 rooms (standards €145 - 175, suites €225 - =H-4, Predslavyns’ka 35D, Palats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 240).# K )9999 44 220 45 75, fax (+380) 44 220 45 76, [email protected]. ua, www.alfavito.com.ua. 251 rooms (8 Standard single COSMOPOLITE from €110, 182 Standard Double from €110, 33 Standard The business hotel is built in Constructivism style, which Twin from €125, 14 Superior Double from €160, 2 Business suites to the surrounding area and Bil’shovyk Shopping Mall from € 160, 5 Superior Twin from €175, 4 Deluxe from nearby. But except of bright avant-garde façade, the hotel €260, 2 Suite from €1260, 1 Apartment from €2260, addi- has truly impressive interior. Each of the hotel’s five floors is tional bed €45). #' )9999 designed in a style dedicated to one of the prominent art- ists of Constructivism and holds a small museum room of BAKKARA ART-HOTEL each painter. The hotel’s location isn’t central, however stay- Bakkara Art-hotel is definitely a fine addition to Kyiv hotel ing there you’ll be within easy access to all major business scene. The hotel offers charm and class with prices that and leisure facilities, with a 10 minutes ride by Peremohy make sense. The rooms are fashionably decorated and prosp. to Khreschatyk. Each room is equipped with work- comfortable. Room amenities include air conditioning, ing area, safe, mini-bar, coffee and tea. For business visitors electronic security system, TV, free Wi-Fi, personal safe, there is a business centre and business areas on each floor. hairdryer, mini-bar, telephone with direct international The hotel’s restaurant offers German cuisine.=E-2, Vadyma access and striking views of the Dnipro River and pictur- Het’mana 6, letters A, А’, Shuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 esque right bank. Every morning from 7:00 until 11:00 am 205 35 20, fax (+380) 44 205 35 21, info@cosmopolite- everyone may enjoy buffet breakfast in the restaurant. kiev.com, www.cosmopolite-kiev.com. 160 rooms (143 The conference room can accommodate up to 80 persons Standard 1761Hr, 7 Junior suite 2282Hr, 10 Suite 2699Hr). and comes fully equipped.=K-3, Venetian Island 1 (near #IK' )9999 the Metro Bridge), Hydropark, tel. (+380) 44 369 31 31, www.bakkara-hotel.com.ua. 200 rooms (standard €1 = 13.58Hr; US$1 = 9.86Hr; £1 = 16.00Hr 790Hr, classic 930 - 1030Hr, deluxe 1500 - 1650Hr, luxe (1 March 2014 bank rates) 2500 - 2800Hr). # )9999

20 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 21 Where to stay

SENATOR APARTMENTS =G-2, Dmytrivska 62/20, Luk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 220 05 55, fax (+380) 44 220 03 33, executivecourt@ SENATOR APARTMENTS CITY CENTER senator-apartments.com, www.senator-apartments. This serviced apartment complex occupies a newly com. classic rooms €115 - 130, standards €125 - 140, renovated historical building in centre. It includes 27 studio apartments €145 - 175, 1-bedroom apartment fully furnished luxury apartments of 1-4 rooms. All €165 - 215. # ) apartments are designed by a well-known international architect and equipped with everything required for a SENATOR APARTMENTS MAIDAN long stay. Modern kitchen, washer/dryer, high-speed This is the latest entry (August 2013) to the Senator Internet access, satellite TV, spa baths and 42’’ plasma Apartments chain. It has a superb location just a step TVs are available. The comfort of your stay is supported from the main Kyiv square, despite of all the hustle and by a multilingual front desk staff, housekeeping services, bustle of Maidan Nezalezhnosti. Its location on a nar- 24/7 security, doorman and free on-site parking.=A-3, row and quiet old city street guarantees all guests calm Pyrohova 6, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 200 77 55, and cosy stay. The hotel has 7 floors and is spread over fax (+380) 44 200 77 33, office@senator-apartments. 3 historical buildings. All rooms, though smaller than com.ua, www.senator-apartments.com.ua. 27 rooms in other Senator Apartments hotels, provide the high (standards €85 - 95, business apartments €135 - 150, standards of the chain. Each room includes central air- studio apartments €155 - 195, 1-bedroom apartment conditioning, a 42” TV, bathrobe and slippers, and an €195 - 235). For a long stay - above 30 days - prices are iron and ironing board. There is also free laundry room. subjected to be reduced. #&$ ) A lovely buffet breakfast cost an extra 10 EUR. Cof- fee and tea in the lobby is free.=C-4, T. Shevchenko SENATOR APARTMENTS EXECUTIVE COURT prov. 8B, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 Located in a newly constructed building in a quiet neigh- 200 77 88, fax (+380) 44 200 77 80, maidan@senator- bourhood on the edge of downtown, the Executive apartments.com, www.senator-apartments.com. 42 Court property includes all the great amenities as the rooms (standards €140 - 165, superiors €150 - 175, City Centre location. The advantage of this locale is its studio apartments €170 - 195, 1-bedroom apart- close proximately to supermarkets and the Ukraina shop- ments €195 - 250). # ). ping mall. Long-term and corporate rates are negotiable.

22 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay

DNIPRO HOTEL IBIS KIEV SHEVCHENKO BOULEVARD One of the best four star hotels in Ukraine. This 12-storey This beautiful hotel is one of the best we have seen come hotel was built in 1964 in the centre of the business, politi- along in awhile. The décor is a unique quasi art-deco- cal and cultural heart of the city. The majority of the rooms modern design; simple, yet elegant. A decently priced res- are recently renovated; some of the rooms have a spec- taurant is open from 12:00-23:00 and there is a 24hrs bar. tacular view of the Dnipro river. All rooms have air-con- All rooms are fully equipped and range from 790Hr for a ditioning, internet, satellite TV and individually controlled double to 2850Hr for a suite with a conference area, bar, and central heating.=C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, Maidan king sized bedroom. The staff is very helpful and English Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 09 89, fax (+380) speaking. Breakfast 120Hr.=G-2, T. Shevchenka bul’v. 25, 44 254 67 65, [email protected], www. Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 591 22 22, fax (+380) 44 dniprohotel.ua/en. 186 rooms (87 singles €73 - 99, 51 591 22 33, [email protected], www.ibishotel.com. 212 doubles €89 - 155, 7 junior suites €160 - 180, 41 suites rooms (113 doubles 790 - 1090Hr, 72 Twin 790 - 1090Hr, 1 €165 - 240).  #"$ ) Suite 2850Hr, 5 rooms for disable 790 - 1090Hr, 21 Family 9999 Room 1170 - 1400Hr). #I>')999

DOMUS PARK HOTEL GOLOSIEVO The private management at this medium-sized Podil es- Built in one of the most beautiful Kyiv parks, it is recommend- tablishment does a very good job fulfilling their claim to ed for business travellers. The hotel is located in 5 min walk be Kyiv’s only business-class hotel. All of its rooms have from Holosiivska metro station and it takes less than 15 min- special orthopaedic mattresses and allergic-proof bed utes to reach the city centre. All room are decorated in warm accessories for the fussy businessperson. Modern dé- colours and equipped with all facilities expected in 4-stars cor and stylishly subtle lighting add to the sophisticated hotel. The Beer Garden restaurant with Bavarian cuisine is atmosphere, and the big comfy beds don’t hurt either. an excellent addition to the hotel. A children playground =D-1, Yaroslavs’ka 19, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. outside the hotel is a nice place for kids.=Holosiivskyi (+380) 44 462 51 20, fax (+380) 44 462 51 45, manager@ prosp. 87, Holosiivska, tel. (+380) 44 219 11 55, fax domus-hotel.kiev.ua, www.domus-hotel.kiev.ua. 30 (+380) 44 219 11 41, [email protected], rooms (singles 1100 - 1200Hr, doubles 1400Hr, suites www.hotelgolosievo.com.ua. 53 rooms (18 suites 1350 - 1700Hr, apartments 3000Hr, superior suite 1950Hr). 1900Hr, 25 apartments 2500 - 3800Hr, 10 standard 850 - #) 1150Hr). # K& )9999

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 23 Where to stay LYBID Named after the legendary sister of Kyiv’s founders, the Lybid is situated in the business heart of Kyiv. All rooms are bright and have pleasant wooden furniture plus air-conditioning, satellite TV, refrigerator and hairdryer. Guests in singles can stretch out and relax on a king- size bed. There are a lot of restaurants and stores in the area, as well as the circus and Ukraina shopping mall. The central train station and the downtown area are within easy reach by public transport.=G-2, Peremohy pl. 1, Vokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 236 60 23/(+380) 44 236 95 72, fax (+380) 44 236 63 36, reception@hotellybid. com.ua, www.hotellybid.com.ua. 273 rooms (159 singles 930 - 1070Hr, 82 doubles 930 - 1070Hr, 3 Junior suite 1217 - 1467Hr, 27 Suite 1627 - 1877Hr, 1 Business suite 2144 - 2394Hr, 1 Exclusive suite 2488 - 2739Hr).  #&$' )999 PODOL PLAZA This four-star boutique hotel creates a distinctive charm of elegance and antique style in the historical centre of Kyiv. Located just a few steps from the city’s best museums and most spectacular Orthodox cathedrals, it has all the advan- tages of a larger establishment, yet exudes the warmth, intimacy and attention to detail that only a privately- owned hotel can. The hotel’s Gallery Restaurant combines traditional cuisine with new flavours and is equally appro- priate for both business lunches and dinners. The bar is a perfect place to numb your senses after a hectic day.=D-2, Kostiantynivs’ka 7A, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 503 92 92, fax (+380) 44 503 92 20, reservation@ podolplazahotel.com.ua, www.podolplazahotel.com. ua/en. 57 rooms (singles 1400 - 1600Hr, doubles 1600 - 1840Hr, junior suite 2320 - 2720Hr, suites 2320 - 4480Hr).  # )9999 PRESIDENT HOTEL The President’s surroundings are surprisingly tranquil considering its proximity to centre. The hotel has 374 bedrooms of varying comfort and size (singles, doubles, suites and apartments), a business centre, restaurant, bar, health and beauty complex, underground parking, airport transfers and even a chauffeur. This is a popular venue for all sorts of events, and its conference suite has rooms holding as few as 10 or as many as 450 people. =A-6, Hospytalna 12, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 256 32 56/(+380) 44 256 38 56, fax (+380) 44 256 32 53, [email protected], presidenthotel.com. ua/en. 374 rooms (standard €140 - 160, junior suite €224 - 320, suite €272 - 380, apartment €480 - 700). #"$ )9999 RAMADA ENCORE KIEV Though Ramada Encore is located a bit far from the city cen- tre, it takes only about 20 minutes to get to the city centre by a shuttle bus (stops at Yevropeyska Square), which is free and goes according to schedule. There is also a free shuttle bus from Boryspil airport. All of 264 rooms are done up in bright colours with a modern style, equipped with wooden floors, large windows and fabulous bathrooms. The confer-

24 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

ence centre (1,200 sq.m) is located on the 1st and 2nd floors. MID-RANGE The hotel’s Lobby bar and DK molecular restaurant with IQ HOTEL a 180 people capacity are located on the 1st floor, while Located near the Bilshovyk Shopping Mall, this modern two gyms are located on 3rd and 18th floors. Breakfast 3 star hotel is a much needed addition to the Kyiv hotel is not included in the price. =Stolychne Shose 103, scene. The staff was very helpful and spoke fairly good Vydubychi, tel. (+380) 44 205 15 15, fax (+380) 44 205 English. There are 34 rooms, mostly double standard cost- 15 16, [email protected], www.ramadaencorekiev. ing just 599Hr per room per night - a small breakfast is com/eng/. 322 rooms (257 standards €99 - 109, 7 supe- included. The design is a high tech “minimalism” - white riors €110 - 120, 20 studios €135 - 145, 38 apartments and bright, with queen size beds and orthopaedic mat- €185). #' )999 tresses. There is a “smart house system” with everything included. It’s adjacent to the shopping mall so all your RUS entertainment and shopping needs are just a stone’s For football fans who are allergic to crowds, the rooms throw away.=E-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, Shuliavska, on the upper floors of the Rus are perfect, offering su- tel. (+380) 44 238 84 05, fax (+380) 44 238 84 06, info@ perb views of Olympic Stadium. The prices, which vary iqhotel.com.ua, www.iqhotel.com.ua. 34 rooms (1 depending on the number of guests in a room, aren’t single 499Hr, 31 doubles 599Hr, 2 junior suites 899Hr).  cheap, and both singles and doubles are a bit small. They #K )999 are smart and well furnished however. There is also a busi- ness centre and three conference halls are at your dis- posal. Prices are cheaper at the weekends, and there are discounts for long stays.=A-6, Hospytal’na 4, Palats GREGUAR APARTMENTS Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 256 40 00/(+380) 44 256 40 20, fax (+380) 44 256 40 05, [email protected], www.hotelrus.kiev.ua/en. 450 rooms (Standard 900 - 1170Hr, Business class 1270Hr, Suite 1700 - 4000Hr). #$ )999

VOZDVYZHENS’KYI BOUTIQUE HOTEL This is one of the most elegant and conceptual places in the capital - an ideal choice for business travel and elite relax- ation. The hotel’s unique location, in the heart of a protected architectural monument of ancient Kyiv, adds a special aura. The hotel’s smart façade faces Andriivs’kyi uzviz and the This apartment hotel located in the very centre of Kyiv Terrace Restaurant is secluded by the surrounding green business area. All 45 executive apartments are cosy hills that provide a breathtaking panoramic view. All 26 and comfortable, equipped with kitchen, Wi-Fi and all rooms, including the two deluxe suites and the two exclu- amenities expected to be in the hotel. A fine French sive suites, come with Jacuzzi, “Club” and “Boudoir”, air-con- patisserie on the premises.=H-4, Chervonoarmiyska ditioning, mini bar, satellite TV and Internet access. Other 67/7, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 498 97 90/(+380) perks include parking, banqueting, rewards programme, tai- 44 498 97 91, fax (+380) 44 498 97 91, info@greguar. lor-made service for every client and a special offer for those com.ua, www.greguar.com.ua. 45 rooms (15 singles just married.=C-2, Vozdvyzhenska 60, Kontraktova 130US$, 24 doubles 165US$, 3 junior suite 180US$, Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 99 00, fax (+380) 44 462 58 43, 3 suite 200 - 220US$). [email protected], www.vozdvyzhensky.com/en/. 26 rooms (singles €140 - 170, doubles €186 - 215, exclusive €300, luxe €315). #$ )9999

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 25 Where to stay

KHRESCHATIK Each room at this cracking place is equipped with tele- HOSTELS phone, satellite TV, refrigerator and air-conditioning. DREAM HOUSE HOSTEL & BAR Given the location, in the heart of the business district, This friendly hostel is located on the famous and picturesque the tranquillity of the place is remarkable. The Khreschatik street of the artists. Part of a chain the hostel is in a lovely boasts two conference rooms, a business centre, a curren- renovated building with beds for 100 +. Everything is clean cy-exchange desk, guarded parking and Wi-Fi Internet with lots of facilities, the beds and furniture are all real wood. can be accessed in the lobby. Weekend rates are a great There is a kitchen, eating area, washing machine, Wi-Fi. value.=C-4, Khreschatyk 14, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, The staff is supper nice and speaks fluent English. They tel. (+380) 44 596 80 00, fax (+380) 44 596 80 01, info@ show genuine concern for their guests and arrange daily khreschatik.kiev.ua, www.khreschatik.kiev.ua/en. 130 games and activities on premises and outside excursions rooms (singles 850 - 1700Hr, doubles 1500 - 1800Hr, like bowling etc. Their motto is “We don’t just sell beds, we suites 1250 - 1900Hr). # )999 sell emotions – something to tell your friends about.”=C-2, Andriivskiy Uzviz 2D, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 580 21 69/(+380) 95 703 29 79, dreamhouse@ AIRPORT HOTEL BORYSPIL dream-family.com, dream-family.com/en/dream-house. 28 rooms (28 Total rooms ). #) GAGARIN Gagarin is located in 300 m from Klovska metro station in the middle of Kyiv business area, surrounded by all city skyscrapers. It provides accommodation for 60+ people in 14 rooms, featuring free Wi-Fi, lockers, complimentary breakfast and coffee/tea are always at hand . The hostel is clean and staff speaks English well. The common area is equipped with kitchen and TV. Ask administrator for bike rental.=B-6, Pervomayskoho 11, Klovska, tel. (+380) 67 877 39 93, [email protected], www. Close to Boryspil’s Terminals B and D, this is the closest gagarinhostel.com.ua. you can get to the airport without actually sleeping #K) in it. Rooms are well-sized, and come equipped with WHY NOT? CHILLOUT KIEV telephone and satellite TV. There is a room for guests The day we first came to this hostel it was greeting its first with special needs on the ground floor. =tel. (+380) guests, still being on small renovation. Now when all works 44 281 71 05, fax (+380) 44 281 79 53. 134 rooms (44 are done it welcomes everyone with 6 rooms each uniquely singles 260 - 390Hr, 49 doubles 420 - 630Hr, 1 apart- designed. If you have only a few days in Ukraine, but want ment 800 - 1275Hr, 28 suites 470 - 780Hr, 12 family to explore the whole country - this hostel is just for you. suites 470 - 900Hr). #&'999 Stay at Industrial 8 bed dorm to feel yourself somewhere in Donetsk or choose a 4 bed dorm of Coupe room and imag- ine travelling by Ukrainian trains. Soviet room or Forest one, UKRAINE HOTEL or maybe the Rocket room, whichever you choose you’ll get Hotel Ukraine is located in the very heart of the capita. the high standard service and common set of amenities, Featuring 371 renovated guest rooms, this four-star hotel including free breakfast and Wi-Fi, laundry service, infor- is a 14-storey skyline icon overlooking the famous Maidan mation support, etc. Smoking is allowed only in basement. Nezalezhnosti and is just steps away from all major attrac- =H-3, Gorkoho 22B/35, Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) tion. Most of the rooms provide fabulous views over the 63 332 43 06, [email protected], www. city’s main square and Khreschatyk street. Location isn’t whynothostels.com. 6 rooms (2 doubles €14 - 15, 2 quads everything though - high quality rooms, all the necessary €12, 1 8-bed dorm €9, 1 10-bed dorm €8). #) amenities and facilities, dedicated service and friendly atmosphere are essential for providing guests with an enjoyable stay. The hotel has hosted numerous celebri- APARTMENT RENTAL ties and foreign dignitaries. Hotel Ukraine also provides KIEV APARTMENTS high quality conference facilities.=C-4, Instytutska Kiev Apartments offers the largest variety of fully ser- 4, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 278 66 75/(+380) viced apartments in the prime centre of Kyiv. Apartments 44 279 03 47, fax (+380) 44 279 13 53, reservation@ for every taste, budget and style. Free airport pick-up. ukraine-hotel.kiev.ua, www.ukraine-hotel.kiev.ua/ =C-4, Horodetskoho 11, office 34, Maidan en. 371 rooms (singles 650Hr, doubles 820 - 1160Hr, Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 93 685 00 76/(+380) 96 058 suites 1400 - 1570Hr, business suites 1700 - 1870Hr, 55 25, [email protected], www.kievapts.com. (stu- duplex 2200 - 2370Hr, executive suites 2600 - 2770Hr). dio 57 - 99US$, one-room 67 - 179US$, two-room 84 - #$ )9999 289US$, three-room 164 - 369US$). #

26 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Quick Picks

Eat Drink Do As we mentioned Most of the venues will Visit one of the open-air museums before, Ukrainian offer you local around the city. Pyrohovo museum is cuisine is rich and very Chernigivske or the oldest and keeps dozens of original diverse. You must try Obolon, or some other ancient Ukrainian architecture from as real borsch, and lucky beer, but Pivbar (p.40) early as 14 century. Mamayeva Sloboda you if you get to try it at someone’s right below Independence Square will is another place to get familiar with

Local home. If you still haven’t made any offer you beer that is quite unique for old Ukrainian architecture. The area is friends among locals, choose one of Kyiv. It is beer from Poltava, Berdychiv, much smaller and all the huts are build the venues on p.28-29. For the second Uman and Ternopil breweries. However recently specially for the museum. course - varenyky is a must! if you miss drinking Hoegaarden or Guinness, they have plenty on hand. For cheap, but still good Rock music lovers and Entrance to most parks, churches and food, head to Puzata football fans are a Cathedrals is free. You have to pay only for Khata (p.32). There are good indicator of St Sophia Cathedral and Kyivo-Pecherska several branches - the where to find cheap Lavra. To enter St Sophia‘s Grounds there most central one is on beer. You will find all is a small 3Hr fee, to enter Lavra for free (a Khreshatyk 15 (Passazh) and Baseina 2. these three ingredients at the slightly small secret) you should come late in the They offer such an incredible variety of noisy Bochka bars (p.39). There are evening. There is free entrance to Pinchuk On the cheap Ukrainian dishes that it will be hard to several of them around the city. Art Centre – Kyiv’s leading contemporary make a choice. art museum. Den & Bros (p.36) on For a cup of great New Do what everyone in Yaroslaviv Val street Your style coffee go to spring in Kyiv does - go downtown is a place Chashka Espresso Bar to the Botanical where you’ll bump (p.38). For a drink with Gardens (p.50) and into young people and fun we suggest the enjoy lilac blossoming.

Lads they have great food. Also popular chain of Fun-Bar Banka (p.39), where Visit one of Dynamo Kyiv matches, among youth are Gastrorock (p.34) everything is served in jars and the which they play at the beautiful and Foodtourist, belonging to one crowd is very young. Olimpiyskyi stadium. The match chain. All these three have DJs paying schedule can be found on www. their sets and a great atmosphere. fcdynamo.kiev.ua/en The cosy atmosphere and the very A lovely coffee aroma Spring weather in Kyiv is mostly awesome, professional staff make Fellini (p.33) hits you as soon as warm and sunny it and is a great opportu- a perfect place for a meal for two, you enter Bao-Bab nity for couples to go walking in the most though some may find it a bit pricy. For Mystical Cafe (p.38). romantic places in the city. Peyzazhna a more reasonable option we recom- For a drink with a Alley is a must! Botanical Gardens in May

Couples mend Verissage (p.33). This is actually great view of St Sophia‘s Cathedral are essential, when magnolias, tulips and one of our favourites in the city. Good go to the Bar on 8th floor of the lilac are blossoming. The Love Bridge in food and a romantic atmosphere. Hyatt Regency Kyiv (p.39). the City Park is another place on the list.

Since November 2013, Golden Gate Irish Pub is a well- For Opera or Ballet lovers we highly rec- Vogue Cafe (p.33) is known and respected venue next to ommend visiting Kyiv Opera House, get probably at the top. the prominent monument in the very a seat in one of the loges and enjoy the Italian Da Vinci Fish heart of Kyiv. If you want to keep up scene. For classical music, Philharmonic Club (p.36) is a proven with expats and English-speaking concerts are brilliant, especially if the high-quality and magical atmosphere locals this is the right choice. O’Brien’s National Symphonic orchestra performs. Highend venue. Another truly great place, Praha Pub at Mykhailivska is another venue Organ Hall provides magical organ Restaurant, will take some effort to get of the same kind.. evenings. there, but is definitely worth the effort. For the unexpected There are many places CNN.com published a list we do recommend in Kyiv to sit and sip a of the world‘s best you make a visit to beer, but there is one Aviation Museums and Ukraine’s cultural great place in a the one in Kyiv is among capital - Lviv. It hosts basement in the very them. “This museum an amazing choice of fantastic places. city centre. Walk along Khreschatyk houses one of the world‘s largest What about eating in the dark? Visit Street, and find #15. This building is displays of aviation technology“. It is

Unexpected Dark Side (p.32) on Podil and enjoy... knows as passage. At the very end in located right next to the Zhuliany darkness. the right hand corner find a door. This Airport runway, where you can see the will lead to great Docker’s ABC (p.41). planes landing and taking off. facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 27 Restaurants We’ve already forgot the times, when hungry tourists were limited to a handful of hotel restaurants with appall- DECODING THE MENU ing service and tasteless food. Thanks to innovative entre- preneurs from Ukraine and the rest of the world, visitors can Ukrainian dishes show a sophisticated simplicity based now choose from a vast range of options of local and inter- on pleasing combinations of fresh, pickled, and smoked national cuisine that rivals many Western European cities. ingredients. While cooking techniques are not compli- New establishments with new themes open regularly as cated, dishes may contain a great number of ingredients shuba the quality of food, service, and décor improve as well. The and unusual combinations, such as salad which prices at some new, trendy restaurants in the centre are ris- combines pickled herring and beets. Food is neither high- ing accordingly, but an evening dining out at most places ly spiced nor bland, but skilfully seasoned to perfection. will still cost less than you would expect to pay for the same Here is a short introduction list of what is essential for level of service and quality at home. Equally appetising Ukrainians: moderately priced and budget options are widely available Bread, is of course the mainstay of the Ukrainian diet. The in all parts of the city. When the weather has warmed up country’s reputation as the “breadbasket of Europe” is well sufficiently, many of the cafés and bars around the centre deserved. The French writer Honore de Balzac, who lived will set up outdoor seating. The letter and the number (e.g. in Ukraine for four years, counted 77 different ways of pre- A-1) before the address details indicate the coordinates for paring bread. It is such a central part of the diet here that finding it on the map in the back of this guide. there is a custom to give honoured guests and departing or arriving travellers the gift of a loaf of bread and salt. This tradition is still used in welcoming ceremonies for dignitar- ies and other important persons. Another staple of Ukrainian diet is kasha or what would be called “mush” in America and “porridge” in Britain. Borshch is certainly the national dish of Ukraine, even making its appearance on the menus of Chinese and Italian restaurants in Kyiv. This uniquely Ukrainian soup has been adopted by other countries in the region, but as recently as 45 years ago it could not even be found in restaurants in other Soviet republics. The many versions of bor- Don’t leave Ukraine without trying varenyky with cherries! shch served throughout the country reflect the individual- ity of Ukrainians as well as their ingenuity. The beet-based soup can contain as many as 20 different ingredients, UKRAINIAN depending on the season, region, and of course, personal KANAPA RESTAURANT SALOON preference of the cook. It can be meatless or prepared from A very upscale Ukrainian restaurant right in the midst of a rich meat stock and contain either beef or smoked pork. Ukraine’s main tourist trap. The dishes are huge and co- The availability of ingredients for traditional cooking lourful not your ordinary Ukrainian food as in most places. are often dependent on the season, so most varieties An average complete meal for 2 will run around 1,000Hr. of vegetables sometimes make their appearance in And if you are on one of the terraces - the view is spec- certain dishes in their pickled form. You also might find tacular! The original structure of the building dates back to that certain dishes listed on a menu might not be avail- the 17th century and has been beautifully restored. There able at certain times of year. are lovely paintings decorating the place and are for sale Salads are very common, but rather than being lettuce- as well. Do not forget to visit the shop as you leave and based, combinations of fresh, cooked, and preserved take home some handmade gifts.=C-2, Andriivskiy Uzviz vegetables may be mixed with meat, cheese, or fish. With 19A, tel. (+380) 44 425 45 48, www.kanapa-restaurant. so many different recipes, the only constant of Ukrainian kiev.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. #) salads are the presence of vinegar or mayonnaise. Varenyky KNIAZHYI GRAD are dumplings made from boiled or fried It was like entering a huge throne room. Located under dough, resembling ravioli without red sauce. They can the Diplomatic Institute, this cellar has been marvellously be filled with meat, potatoes, cabbage, and sometimes transformed. There are stones pillars and arches through- mushrooms for as an entrée, or sour cherries or sweet- out with swords and plaster figures set in them. The cui- ened cottage cheese and raisins as a dessert. Any kind sine is traditional Russian and Ukrainian with an average can be accompanied by butter or sour crème. meal costing around 400Hr.=C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrska The word holubtsi can be translated into “little pi- 2, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 06 geons,” but really has nothing to do with fowl of any 41, www.knyazhiy-grad.com. Open :00 - 24:00.  kind. They are cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice or # %) buckwheat and often covered with a thin tomato sauce.

28 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

SYMBOL KEY

&Child-friendly Credit cards accepted Outside seating (Home delivery %Take away Nearest metro station >Pet-friendly )Wifi Live music A-1 Map coordonates

KULT RA This is a journey in time to Pre-Christian Ukraine. The staff wears traditional costumes and speaks some English. The décor is “early Ukrainian”, like being in an old village. There is nothing on the menu that was not in the “Pagan” times, hence no tomatoes or potatoes. The organic menu is reasonably priced and in English. A specialty is the mus- tached cat fish fillet smoked in vegetables for 106Hr. We tried the fried trout in herbs with beets and celery and found it great! There are homemade liquors and Ceriman herbal teas to enjoy. The place is absolutely non-smoking. =C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 4, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 331 59 48, www.kultra.org. Open 10:00 - 23:00. )

SINOVAL It is a different sort of place which one finds out upon en- try and is greeted with a bathtub full of fish. The décor is kind of flea market with old radios, typewriters, books, and assorted knickknacks scattered throughout. The cuisine is Ukrainian with an average meal running just 100Hr or so. There is a delicious lunch served daily for just 39Hr. One can see the daily special on line in their very interesting web-site. There is no English menu nor English speaking staff when we were there - but in such a relaxed atmo- sphere - there is bound to be another guest happy to help out.=H-3, Saksahans’koho 40, tel. (+380) 44 289 54 75, www.sino.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. )

TARAS BULBA This is a very traditional Ukrainian restaurant - like being in a village. The staff wears those cute costumes and the place is loaded with jars of handmade conserves and pre- serves along with antiques and decorations all of which can be bought on the spot. Not only is there an English menu – they have them is 36 languages! (Someone please call Guinness). There are, as expected, many different dish- es of borscht available, rabbit, and 20 different types of varenyky, and plenty of delicious Ukrainian dishes. An aver- age meal cost around 150-200Hr. Breakfast is from 09:00- 12:00 with free coffee included. The business lunch is from 12:00-16:00 from 60Hr. They have their own discount card and there are discounts for birthdays. They also hold spe- cial “seasonal” parties with workshops in arts and crafts for children.=B-4, Pushkinska 2-4/7, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 270 72 48, www.tarasbulba.kiev.ua. Open 09:30 - 22:00. %)

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 29 Restaurants

AMERICAN BELGIAN ARIZONA BBQ LE COSMOPOLITE Kyiv’s first expat hangout has excellent burgers, Mexican Designed in the style of early 20th century Belgian food and a 69Hr business lunch. American pool and brassieres located throughout European capitals, Le darts keep the adults happy, while children’s parties Cosmopolite’s art-nouveau décor impresses with lots of are held every Sunday 11:00 - 12:30 and 15:00 - 16:30. wooden panels and a marble bar. Belgian and interna- =D-3, Naberezhno-Khreschatytska 25, Kontraktova tional food is accompanied by a wide selection of Belgian Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 24 38, www.arizonabbq. beers on tap.=B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 47, Zoloti Vorota, com.ua. Open 08:00 - 01:30. €€€. &%) tel. (+380) 44 278 72 78. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. # BEEF’S BAR I cannot remember the last time I tasted a real Chili Cheese Hot Dog. I got the “real thing” here! Beef’s say they specialize CAUCASIAN in Burgers & Chili. I think that Tex-Mex is also a pretty good CHECHEVICA description. The palace has an authentic “American” type Here is a lovely culinary experience not too far from the design which adds to the atmosphere. There are all kinds centre. While the speciality is Georgian cuisine, there is of Burgers & chili along with chicken wings, tortillas, nachos, also Thai food, sushi and pizza; all at reasonable prices. & more. The prices are very reasonable with the medium There is an open grill area so you can see your food be- price being about 70-80Hr. =H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 65, ing cooked. The decor is quite unique - very “sweet and Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 77 55, www.beefys. comfortable”. The staff is super friendly and speaks great com.ua. Open 10:00 - 23:00. %) English. There is seating for 150 on two levels plus a ter- T.G.I. FRIDAY’S race. There are also several VIP rooms for private gather- Famous for decades all over the world and synonymous ings.=H-3, Chervonoarmiiska 65, Olimpiiska, tel. with great value and good times, this chain restaurant is a (+380) 44 287 11 16, www.chechevica.com.ua. Open real piece of Americana in the heart of Kyiv. Friday’s attracts 11:00 – 24:00. %) expats longing for familiar food, which comes in huge por- tions at reasonable prices and is served by the best staff in KUVSHIN (JUG) the city. Visitors will find the Kyiv menu has more salads Restaurant Kuvshin offers Eastern, Caucasian, and and grilled meats than the Stateside version. The wine Ukrainian cuisine. The creative service accompanies the list is terrific and the cocktails (there are more than 400 of delicious taste of their dishes. The design and furniture them) will speak for themselves.=A-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, reminds you of the good old times when the whole Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 235 42 64, www.fridays. family gathered around the dinner table. The cosy fam- com.ua/en. Open 12:00 - 23:00. &% ily atmosphere at the restaurant comes with traditional ZHELTOK Caucasian hospitality.=H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 94/10, Do not let the name confuse you - it is really a pretty good Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 592 63 63, www.kuvshin. attempt at copying an American diner. (I doubt though if com.ua. Open 12:00 - 02:00. & % many exist anymore.) The breakfast/lunch menu is served from 08:30-17:30 with unlimited coffee. There are great American type pancakes along with real American hot CZECH dogs and hamburgers. The average price is about 60Hr. The dinner menu is from 17:30-23:00 featuring international U GOLEMA and American cuisine. An average meal in the evening Those of you who have never been to Prague or read runs about 150Hr. All here speak English well! =A-4, Lva about it, must have heard something of the legend of Tolstoho 11/61, Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 63 396 10 10. Golem. According to legend, Golem was created out of Open 08:30 - 23:00. K%) clay from the banks of Vltava river in the late 16th century to defend the Prague ghetto from pogroms. The legend is sad, but there is also a nicer part to it which is described on the walls of this Czech restaurant. The menu, beauti- fully decorated, features a long list of traditional rich Czech cuisine. We recommend trying at list one dish from Bramborov ý Listek (potato pies with different fillings) from a simple one for 27Hr to the most expensive with pork for 89Hr. There is pale and dark Podkován draft beer on tap. The wine list includes Italian, Chilean and Georgian wines. =A-3, Chapaeva 4V, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 45 56, [email protected], www.ugolema.com.ua. Open 12:00 - 22:00.  %) Start your day with American breakfast in Zheltok

30 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 31 Restaurants

SELF-SERVICE DARK RESTAURANT DARK SIDE This unique restaurant has a very unusual theme; guests eat in complete darkness. The servers make no mistakes as they are equipped with night vision goggles. There are 3 menus offered, green, red, and blue which consist of meat, fish and vegetables. The price for each dish is 240Hr, which includes mineral water, other drinks may be ordered, and there is music being played. For those wanting a “normal” restaurant, it is that too. The surroundings are of medieval design, the menu is in English and the cuisine is European. Some of the specialties are the baked cod which we found great, for 200Hr and a great selection of Italian cheese. The average price for a meal is about 250Hr.=D-3, Ihorivska 14A, tel. (+380) 44 428 88 38, www.darkside.kiev.ua. Open 12:00 - 23:00. )

EUROPEAN GRILL-BUREAU PACHE DVA GUSYA Fish lovers - this is for you! Right in the centre you can enjoy An enormous selection of European and Ukrainian not only their fish specialty but can choose from the great dishes, from Irish-fried potatoes to ‘bitok’ - fried meat selection of Italian/European cuisine. We ordered the sea Kyiv-style. There are also soups, salads, desserts and bass from the Josper grill for just 145Hr and are glad we did. an assortment of drinks. New dishes are introduced An average complete meal will run around 300Hr. There is a frequently, and special food is served in honour of breakfast menu from 09:00-12:00 for 30 and 38Hr. The décor Ukrainian holidays. Also at Khreschatyk 7/11, Arsenalna is awesome - very modern with wood everywhere. It seats 9/11.=A-3, B.Khmelnytskoho 46, Universitet, tel. 100 and there is a VIP room and a summer terrace.=C-4, (+380) 44 221 12 01, www.dvagusya.ua. Open 10:00 Kostelna 3, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 - 23:00. % 02 11/(+380) 67 187 49 49, www.pache.com.ua. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. ) OLIVIE Located right in the centre, the Olive is actually a INK pleasant make-over of a former branch of Domashnia This upscale Restaurant is located inside the business cen- Kuchnia, a cafeteria that has been in Kyiv for ages. The tre and is a great place for those serious business lunches. décor is an eye catching light green and there are TV It is modern and spacious with a bright design. The cui- screens for football everywhere. The food is everyday sine is basically European and they have a great selection Ukrainian and one can get a decent meal anywhere of Black Sea fish. An average meal will easily cost around from 20-50Hr depending on how hungry one is. Also 500Hr. The menu is in English and all were happy to speak at Metrograd Shopping Mall.=B-4, B.Khmelnytskoho with us. There is also a breakfast menu available from 16-22, Teatralna. Open 08:00 - 23:00. # 10:00-12:00.=A-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 52/17, Leonardo Business Centre, tel. (+380) 44 224 50 65, ink-restaurant. PUZATA KHATA com. Open 10:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. ) It is a great place for breakfast, lunch, or even dinner with your sweetheart, and there are a wide variety of L’ENTRECOTE pastries on the second floor. For people who know al- “Smart Food. Smart people” is their motto. This is a great most nothing about Ukrainian food and are not sure if “budget restaurant” right in the centre. A main dish con- it is worth spending a lot of money in a restaurant to sists of either beef steak, salmon steak, mussels, or shrimp find out what Ukrainians like the most, it is a good op- accompanied by bread, salad, and potatoes or veggies; All portunity for a trial taste. Besides, you will find yourself for just 89Hr. There are also single portions of soup, sand- in a real Ukrainian peasant house, so, enjoy! Also at B-4, wich, hamburger, & a cheese dish for prices ranging from Khreschatyk 15/4, Passage; H-3, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 40; 32Hr-69Hr. There are some yummy desserts too for around B-5, Baseina 1/2, Bessarabska pl.=D-2, Kontraktova 35Hr. Breakfast is served until 12:00 costing between 20Hr- pl. 2/1, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 391 36Hr. It has a modern yet simple design with seating for 46 99, www.puzatahata.com.ua/eng/. Open 08:00 - 130, with a friendly English speaking staff.=B-5, Baseina 23:00. %) 5B, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 593 80 39, www. lentrecote.com.ua. Open 08:00 – 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. )

32 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants ODESSA CAFE A lovely “children friendly’ restaurant recently remodelled FRENCH with a unique design. There is seating for nearly 200 with Ukrainian/European cuisine prepared by one of Ukraine’s BAЗAAR BRASERIE top chefs. Seafood is plentiful and the salmon for 87Hr was This is a fairly new restaurant (Summer 2011) with a lovely a choice we did not regret. A complete meal will run about modern French design and located in the same building 300Hr. The menu is in English and all were quite eager to as the famous Besarabsky market. In fact, one can get a speak with us.=I-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 114, tel. (+380) table with a bird’s eye view of the market below. See 44 238 84 13, odessarest.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. something you like in the market, buy it, bring it up and have the kitchen prepare it while you wait. Or enjoy a dish VARADERO from the menu specialising in French and Italian cuisine. Opened autumn 2012 it is a lovely restaurant on 3 floors There is an English menu and staff speaks some English with seating for 70+. It has a bright - formal yet comfortable as well. There is also a lovely cheese platter to hold you design and cosy fireplaces. There are pictures all over the while you wait. We tried the duck breast with caramel wall of life in Cuba. We thought it strange as Varadero has apples for 190Hr and really enjoyed it! An average meal European/ Ukrainian cuisine. The answer is simple; this was will run you about 250Hr-300Hr.=B-5, Besarabska pl. 2, once a USSR government building and Fidel himself once Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 238 21 11, www.bazaar. smoked a cigar here. Their speciality is Black Sea fish, and kiev.ua. Open 10:00 - 24:00. also the fact that one can order anything “off menu”. An av- erage meal costs around 300Hr. They have a wide variety of FELLINI wine and claim to have the lowest wine prices in town! The A wonderful location for people-watching, as the two staff is super friendly and fluent in English and they will be terraces overlook the fashionable Ukraina cinema just happy to take you on a tour.=G-2, T.Shevchenka bulv. 27A, off Khreschatyk. Fellini offers delicious French and Italian Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 234 03 70, www.t-v.com. food, including frog legs and goose liver for those who ua. Open 09:30 – 00:30. %) likes such delicacies. Prices are above average, but meals are incredibly delicious and service is good. A summer terrace overlooks beautiful Horodetskoho street.=C-4, Horodets’koho 5, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 54 62. Open 24 hrs. €€€. #K %)

VERNISSAGE A recreation of a Parisian bistro in the heart of Kyiv. Much of the décor is imported from France as is the large selection of wine. The cuisine is French, European, and Ukrainian and overseen by a real French Chef. There is the main menu, a special “seasonal” menu (both in English), and a “business lunch” (Russian only) menu. The French-style meat courses change monthly. We tried the large and lovely Chevre Salad with warm goat’s cheese for 98Hr. and really enjoyed it. Also at B-2, Artema 10, tel. (+380) 44 272 20 03; A-1, Turgenevs’ka 15, tel. (+380) 44 484 46 96. One of the most luxurious dining experiences in the city =C-2, Andriivskyi Uzviz 30, tel. (+380) 44 425 24 03, www.vernissagecafe.com/en. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, VOGUE CAFÉ Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. #*%) As the name suggests, this is an upscale café-restaurant. It has a classic, “vogue” design and it is almost like eating in a palace. The restaurant is very spacious, holds around FUSION 100, and is properly divided into smoking & non smok- NEBO ing sections. The menu is European cuisine with such This upscale restaurant is located with the Skybar complex on offers as roast loin of venison for 285Hr. A medium bill the top floor of one of the buildings in Arena City. The décor is here will run you about 500-600Hr per person. The staff “bright white” so bring your sunglasses if you plan to eat there is supper friendly and spoke very good English.=D-3, in the daytime. The menu offers European and Japanese cui- Sahaidachnoho 11, Poshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 sine with an average meal running around 500Hr. There is also 220 08 09, www.voguecafe.ua. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, a great Business Lunch weekdays from 12:00-13:30 for just Sun 11:00 - 24:00. ) 75Hr. The menu is in English and everyone was keen to speak to us in English. There is a lovely open roof terrace where one Much more restaurant recommendations may take meals in good weather.=A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka can be found at 1-3, Arena City, tel. (+380) 44 332 88 88, nebo-rest.com. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 33 Restaurants OK BAR & RESTAURANT CHINESE RESTAURANTS Sounds like a saloon near the OK Corral, but it’s far from it. This is an upscale bar and restaurant with the re- BRUCE LEE ceptionist selling designer cosmetics. The menu offers A great little eatery just a stone’s throw from Kyiv’s main International & Ukrainian cuisine with the average price drag - Khreschatyk. It’s got great Chinese design and is being 400Hr. One specialty is their tasty USA choice quite cosy - seating 44. The chef is from China so you can steaks. The décor is a lovely modern black & white theme. be sure it’s the real thing. It’s a real young and friendly Mellow-romantic music is played and Thursday through English-speaking staff and they really made us feel wel- Saturday there is live music-piano & vocals- from 20:00. come. Portions run between around 25-88Hr with an av- =H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 94, Olimpiyska, tel. erage meal costing about 120Hr. There are 4 great “busi- (+380) 44 225 02 20, www.ok-bar.com. Open 08:00 - ness” menus ranging from 35-105Hr.=B-4, Proreznaya 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. K) 2, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 360 70 60, www. brucelee.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (%) GASTRONOMIC CHINA WHITE FOODTOURIST This restaurant is a marvellous maze hidden behind a Part of an International theme, the Food tourist has just glass façade. The magnificent wardrobe and bar, and opened this year in Kyiv - and right smack dab in the the sensational staircase leading to the seven different centre. The theme is simply “food fashion”; the cuisine is dining rooms bestow a sense of exclusive simplicity. International and Ukrainian and they have an open Josper The food is good, and you will find a mix of Japanese, grill. The chef is from Marseilles and speaks great English as Chinese, and European cuisine on the menu. For the does the staff. There are so many different items to choose full Chinese experience go for the round table: you and from, and an average meal runs between 150-200Hr. A 11 of your closest friends will fit around it.=I-4, Lesi unique feature is the two large dining tables covered with Ukrainky bul’v. 24, Pechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 594 beautiful thick grass. This was definitely a 1st for us – and 21 75, www.2k.ua. Open 12:00 - 24:00.  % less for the staff to clean up afterwards. There is also a breakfast menu served from 09:00-12:00 with prices about LUN VAN 35Hr. =A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 5 (Arena City), 2nd Lun Van offers arguably the most savoury and authentic floor, Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 095 780 60 70, www. Chinese in town. The beef and chicken stir-fry are excel- foodtourist.com.ua. Open 09:00 - 24:00. K%) lent and the spicy veal will definitely have you reach- ing for your beer, eyes watering. Friendly and efficient service has become a trademark. The private dining room accommodates up to 12 and is ideal for business luncheons, larger dinner groups and families with noisy children.=B-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 26, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 279 81 91. Open 11:00 - 02:00.  % MANDARIN This floating Asian restaurant boasts 25 Chinese cooks and over 100 items on the menu, including pig’s ears, jel- lyfish and (relatively) expensive sushi. Most of the dishes are for two or more people, so don’t be selfish and share with your partner. There is a special tearoom, a kid’s room with professional baby-sitter, and even a mooring for your boat, should you bring it. English menu avail- No jokes! This is a real grass table able.=D-3, Moskovsky prosp. 32, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 229 04 59, www.mandarin.ua. GASTROROCK Open 24hrs. &%) A cool type of pub for the younger age set. There is much truly unique here - like beer in a tin with fish, or is it fish in a PING-PONG tin with beer? You can buy your own cured leg of pork and A good Chinese and Thai food delivery, actually we leave it hanging for whenever you come in. There are spe- think it is the best in Kyiv. The free delivery covers most cial Sunday dinners where the staff trade places with the of the city centre and part of the left bank areas. The customers. Breakfast is from 08:00-12:00 with a special for noodles and rice go for 50-60Hr, soups for 30-40Hr, 49Hr. There is a business lunch from 12:00-15:00 for 69Hr. and salads for around 30Hr. The website is in Russian, An average meal runs about 200-250Hr. The place holds but the pictures tell it all. The operator should speak 80+ and there is live music along with special cocktails some basic English..= tel. (+380) 44 545 89 89, www. every Wednesday – Saturday.=C-1, Vozdvyzhenska 10B, ping-pong.ua. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 50 390 61 31, www. gastrorock.kiev.ua. Open 08:00 - 02:00. %)

34 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

KOREAN HAN GANG Getting to this restaurant takes a small effort. Hop over the Dnipro to the left bank and the Slavutych Hotel, as- cend to the 16th floor and turn right out of the lift. Once inside you’ll discover that the minor travel hassle was well worth it. The panoramic view of the right bank and the stunning domes of Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra is arguably the best in the city. Skip the Japanese and order the Korean - you won’t be disappointed. Karaoke is available. Also at Saksahanskoho 112. =Entuziastiv 1, Slavutych Hotel, 16 floor, Livoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 294 14 14, www. han-gang.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 24:00. %)

INDIAN BUDDHA-BAR Buddha Bar is a heavy hitter all over Europe and is now en- joying similar success in Ukraine’s capital. It’s safe to say that this is the trendiest establishment in Kyiv. The recipe for their popularity is simple, high quality in a flashy package. For a one-stop-all-inclusive-evening this ranks high on the list of possibilities. Enjoy hard to find Indian, Thai and Chinese in the restaurant, and then head to the bar or the VIP lounge. If you’d like to get a sneak peak of what’s in store for you, check out Buddha’s very professional website.=C-4, Khreschatyk 14, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 270 76 76, www.buddhabar.com.ua. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. ) VAGON-RESTAURANT Different styles of train carriages make up one of the most HIMALAYA fantastic restaurant interiors in the city. Seating areas in- Scale the heights of Indian cuisine at this quiet restaurant clude English, Western and Eastern Orient compartments, above the hustle and bustle of Khreschatyk. The selections in addition to a French boulevard and a waiting hall include tandoori dishes cooked in an original clay oven at where you can pour yourself beer from taps on the table. 300°C, chicken lollipop and authentic Indian cheese. They The cuisine is Euro fusion.=H-3, Chervonoarmiyska 52, also boast a new 65Hr business lunch menu every week. Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 04 90, www.wagon- =B-4, Khreschatyk 23, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 ua.com. Open 11:00 - 02:30. &% 270 54 37. Open 11:30 - 23:30. )

INTERNATIONAL ITALIAN ANTWERPEN CARPACCIO Have you ever wanted to travel back in time? Here is your The restaurant is named after Giuseppe Cipriani who in chance to visit Antwerp as it once was. You will know you 1950 invented a new cold dish of thinly sliced raw beef are in the right place when you see a lovely 1956 Rolls Royce and called it “carpaccio.” Today this method of thin slic- Silver Wraith in the yard. This unique restaurant is definitely ing is popular all over the world. Carpaccio’s Italian chef a “must see”. There is a wonderful collection of antique offers delicious food with an Italian flavor. The long dining masterpieces, paintings and sculptures made of bronze by hall is has a simple red and white décor. At the far end is Flemish, French and German artists who in different times an open kitchen where one can observe the preparation lived and created their masterpieces in Antwerp. There is of homemade pasta, authentic pizza, and other dishes. also an antique organ, music boxes, porcelain, clocks of all An average meal will cost around 250-300Hr’ and if you sorts, and other antiques. The menu is in English and the come early you can have breakfast from 10:00-12:00. As for staff is easy to communicate with. An average meal runs the service; we cannot remember seeing a friendlier, smil- around 350Hr. =A-5, Pushkinska 38, Lva Tolstoho, ing staff that really made us feel at home.=C-3, Sofiivska tel. (+380) 44 234 13 00, www.antwerpen.com.ua. Open 12, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 16 12. 12:00 - 23:00, Fri-Sun 12:00 - 22:00. ) Open 10:00 - 23:00. %)

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 35 Restaurants DA VINCI FISH CLUB Where did we enter a time machine that transferred us to MEDITERRANEAN the Renaissance Italy? A big round bar of Venetian hat form DEN & BROS and 12 blowing heads are right in the middle of the ground Den & Bros is a trendy underground local not far from the floor. Beneath a real gondola “float” found its harbour. On the “Golden Gate”. The menu was specially developed by a second floor there are romantic Romeo and Juliet balconies Greek chef. The main idea was to use local produce and for lovers and the Balcony with beautiful view over the city. ingredients for dishes with a Greek and Mediterranean fla- Veroneze banquet hall is decorated with copies of the famous vour. We recommend trying the “Something from Ancient Italian painters accommodate 14 - 20 people. Biblioteka hall Greece salad” to experience “the real thing”. The prices are with books, synopsis of classicists and styluses, as well as a VIP- quite reasonable with a complete meal running about hall for 6 people called Coliseum. The restaurant serves tradi- 130Hr. There is a business lunch as well from 12:00-16:00. tional Italian dishes and specialities. Another attractive feature Den & Bros is also proud of their cocktail list and the right is an aquarium with live mussels, crabs and lobsters. Every way of making cocktails. Their Bloody Mary is truly one of night (except for Sun) there is live music, and Italian songs are the best in town, made from fresh tomato juice. Fridays performed by waiters.=C-3, Volodymyrska 12, Zoloti and Saturdays DJs rock the night. We never did see any Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 34/(+380) 50 469 91 52, www. brothers though.=B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 19, tel. (+380) 44 da-vinci.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 24:00. ) 272 22 20, www.denbros.com.ua. Open 12:00 - 00:00, OSTERIA PANTAGRUEL Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. %) A time-proven Italian favourite, Osteria is widely recog- nised for its excellent home-made pasta and impressive wine cellar. First-timers are strongly advised to try the ‘ta- gliatelle alla Constantino’, named after Osteria’s chef-virtuoso Constantino Passalacqua. In the summer time you may also enjoy your meal on a charming terrazzo in front of the historic Golden Gate.=B-3, Lysenka 1, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 81 42, www.pantagruel.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00 Mon - Fri 8:00 - 11:00 breakfast.  ) RUCOLA They like to be known as an “Italian Restaurant For Friends” Another grass style theme at Den & Bros It is a pretty recent addition to the Italian restaurant scene and the food seemed authentic enough. There is a wood stove and of course, an original stone pizza oven. Not only are there yummy pizzas, but a great selection of pasta, OUT OF TOWN meat, & fish. We enjoyed the Porterhouse steak-450 g BATKIVSKA HATA ECO-RESTAURANT for just 195Hr. An average meal will run around 250- One of the popular restaurant chain on the way from Kyiv 300Hr. It is quite large holding around 90 and the staff to Odesa, this one is closest to Kyiv, located only 24 km was super friendly and spoke great English. =H-4, from the city centre in the wood ecological area. To get Chervonoarmiyska 57/3, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 here you can either take a taxi or any marshrutka going 239 88 88, www.rucola.com.ua. Open 24hrs. %) from Vystavkovyi Tsentr metro station along Odesa high- way. Batkivska Hata offers the most traditional choice of JEWISH Ukrainian dishes, pleasant interior and friendly stuff. This can be a great place for both a family dining out of town on CIMES weekends and an event for your company. There is a play- The cuisine is Kosher, and the different dining rooms all ground for children and a number of separated arbours for have their own character and appeal, while the Kosher wine small companies.=24 km Kyiv-Odesa highway, Glevaha list is a rare treat. Great staff and wonderful service.=D-2, village, tel. (+380) 067 401 38 58, www.batkivskahata. Sahaidachnoho/Ihorivska 10/5, Poshtova Ploscha, com. Open 24hrs. Avarage bill 200 Hr.  %) tel. (+380) 44 428 75 79, www.cimes.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. #&> (% KING DAVID SCOTTISH Owned by the Central Synagogue, all profits from this WHISKY CORNER place go to charity. You can enjoy your food in one of two “Show me the way to the next whisky bar” - Well here it is! rooms: one boasts an enormous picture of Jerusalem at Just a stone’s throw from Independence Square with 700+ night, the other is a take on a typical European street. Both labels of whisky to choose from. The theme is “Scottish” are enchanting. Closed during Shabat.=A-5, Esplanadna hence the lovely plaid costumes the staff wear. The dé- 24, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 74 36. Open cor is modern yet relaxed seating 70. There is an English 11:00 - 23:00. # menu with European and of course, Scottish cuisine cost-

36 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants ing 300Hr for an average meal - steaks would be more. We dared to order traditional Scottish haggis in a baked UZBEK potato for 75Hr and were impressed.=C-3, Sofiivska ESHAK 16/16, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 279 02 15, www. A new addition to the Uzbec Restaurant trend. It is a stun- whiskycorner.kiev.ua. Open 11:00 – 24:00. ) ning place to vist with the “Mongol decor” transporting you to another time & place. It is quite large with seating for 300 SEAFOOD including several VIP rooms for private gatherings of up to 10. It is also “children friendly” with many families visiting BARKAS on weekends. An average meal will cost around 300Hr per It is right by Kyiv’s “Golden Gate”, yet you would be forgiven if person. From Thursday through Sunday there is live music in you thought you had been transported to Crimea. It’s a great the restaurant and a DJ on the terrace. There are also prod- seafood restaurant with “Black Sea” cuisine. But not just cui- ucts & fresh exotic spices for sale.=H-6, Chervonoarmiyska sine - all the food comes from Crimea; fish, veggies, wine, and 85/87, Palats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 383 33 00, www. preserves. You can actually pick your dinner from the large eshak.com.ua. Open 11:00 – 23:00. %) aquarium. Its design is of a ship and there is seating for 150 – banquets are welcome. The prices are quite reasonable TUBETEYKA with an average meal - with wine - costing around 350Hr. On A real Uzbek restaurant! It’s just outside the centre but Thursday & Friday there is a musical duo for your entertain- easy to get to. There is a lovely terrace outside and inside ment. There are 2 “happy hours” weekdays; unlimited buns it’s decorated to the hilt with items and costumes from are served from 10:00-12:00 and unlimited coffee is available Uzbekistan. It seats 120 with smoking and non-smoking ar- from 14:00-16:00.=B-4, Volodymyrska 49A, Zoloti Vo- eas. The staff is really friendly and speaks English ok. An av- rota, tel. (+380) 44 569 56 42, www.brsystems.ua. Open erage meal costs around 200-250Hr and there are business 10:00 - 23:00. &%) lunches weekdays from 12:00-16:00 for 64 and 84Hr. There is another restaurant of this chain nearby the Olimpiyskiy Stadium at Esplanadna 2 and another one at Lesi Ukrainky SOVIET bulv. 34. Each of these two is as perfect as the first one. VARENICHNAYA KATUSHA =H-3, Tarasivska 29/50, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 A recently opened member of a rapidly growing restau- 02 42, www.2k.ua. Open 10:00 - 23:00. &%) rant chain here in the capital. It is authentic Ukrainian food at very reasonable prices. The atmosphere is homey with books and lots of knick-knacks from by gone days. Every- thing is fresh and homemade including some yummy cakes! The menu changes every four months. Aside from the expected Ukrainian food there are other great dishes such as salmon steak for just 89Hr. There is no English menu, but the pictures did help, and communicating is English was a bit difficult. Also at Sahaidachnoho 41, Lesi Ukrainky 24, Chervonoarmiyska 60. =C-3, Sofiivska 14, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 220 00 15, katysha.com.ua/en. Open 09:00 - 22:00. &%) When everything is done just right for a family. @Tri TURKISH TIKE In a restaurant scene that has become a wasteland of VEGETARIAN mediocre establishments with cliché themes, Tike boldly TRI rises above to offer an exceptional detour from the norm. This is probably without any exceptions, the only com- Originally established in Istanbul, Tike has been wow- pletely vegetarian restaurant in town. The menu excludes ing diners throughout Eurasia and Europe for more than dishes from meat, fish, eggs, sugar, yeast, white flour, a decade. Scrumptious appetisers get the juices flowing and milk. It is based on seasonal food which grows in in anticipation of delectable charcoal-grilled lamb and the region. The bar and healthy bakery offer fresh juices, beef. The Turks are known for their outstanding service, smoothies, organic teas including their own house blends, a tradition that has been brought to Kyiv by the restau- cereals drinks, and cocktails from nut milk. The menu fea- rant’s Turkish management. Other mentionables include tures main course dishes from spinach, mushrooms, cab- an inviting wine card, great desserts and banquet seating bage, and other vegetables for 65-79Hr. But the restaurant for up to 44.=D-2, Sahaidachnoho 31A, Poshtova itself is only a part of the space. Tri: is a family place, so Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 40 62, www.tike.com.ua. bring your kids with you to take part in numerous activities Open 11:00 - 23:00. &%) offered by the restaurant.=B-3, Olesia Honchara 15/3,

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 37 Cafés Cafés in Kyiv quite often offer much more than just a cup of perfect coffee with a pastry. Most of them have soups, salads, and sandwiches on their menus, so the bor- der between restaurants and cafés is very thin. Look over the selection of cafés in our guide and pick the one that is just right for your mood or occasion.

AROMA ESPRESSO BAR A nice friendly place to relax and have light meals and breakfast. Mellow music is played; there is Wi-Fi, a mod- erately priced English menu. Aroma belongs to a world- wide chain of coffee shops with a good reputation. We tried one of the house specialties, “Aroma Salad” with Bulgarian cheese. Children are welcome. Also at The Cafe Fountain next to the “Golden Gate” is one of the greatest Mechnykova 3, tel.: (+380) 44 461 97 28; Zhylyans’ka 75, places for having a beer or a cuppa and watching the world go by tel.: (+380) 44 596 00 20, open 24hrs.=H-4, Dymytrova 5, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 202 66 33, fax (+380) CHOCOLATE BOUTIQUE VASILIADI 44 201 66 22, www.aromacafe.com.ua. Open 08:00 - This unique café features “creations” from the Greek family 23:00. &(%) Vasiliadi which has been making handmade chocolates since 1922. This niche café seats 35 and offers a limited yet great BAOBAB MISTYCAL CAFÉ (English) menu of Greek cuisine. The staff was young, friendly, Have you ever visited one of those quaint little coffee- and very energetic. There is also a great breakfast menu. shops in Lviv? Well, there are couple of them right here They have a wide selection of cakes and deserts and also sell in Kiev. The aroma hits you when you walk in the door. some original Greek products.=H-4, Chervonoamiyska 82, They have that classic “Lviv-Coffee” design that makes Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 73 71, www.vasiliadi. one feel warm & cosy, and the music played is mellow and kiev.ua. Open 08:00 - 21:00. K%) pleasant. There is coffee from all around the world as well, chocolate, ice cream, and homemade cakes. Also at Shota GALYTSKYI SHTRUDEL Rustaveli 26.=C-3, Volodymyrska 18/2, tel. (+380) 96 A nice homey-type place where you can eat all kinds of stru- 451 01 01, www.bao-bab.kiev.ua. Open 09:00 - 22:00, del. There are 12 of the sweet variety and 12 savoury ones. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. #) The contents change from time to time. One can even see them being made through a kitchen window! The décor is CAFÉ IMBIR classic Ukrainian and it seats about 45. The idea of the eatery Reminded us of the TV series Harry’s law - The lawyer took stems from an Austrian who made strudels for his wife in Lviv over the premises of a designer shoe and kept on selling in the 1800’s, and then opened a place to sell them. You don’t the shoes. Imbir (or Ginger in English) took over a home need a menu as you can look and point-the staff speak Eng- decorations store and continues to sell home decorations. lish and can help you.=H-3, Saksahans’koho 18, tel. (+380) It’s a café-restaurant with a lovely atmosphere offering 44 287 07 33. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.  vegetarian food with a vegan menu. An average meal will cost around 150Hr. Breakfast is served all day long and LA CANTINA there is a business lunch as well from 12:00-16:00 costing A nice little cafe-restaurant close to the Golden Gate. There 60Hr. In addition to the house decorations there is a shop is an English menu and nice background music. It’s not so selling oils, Asian spices, incense, and more. There are live big, holds about 40. It has a lovely design and reminds concerts of Indian music from time to time so check it one of being in Italy. Their specialty is stone-grilled meats; out - it is an experience you will not want to miss!=H-3, steak, turkey, chicken, and scrimp. We really enjoyed the Zhylianska 7, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 61 80, turkey breast steak with garlic and curry for 89Hr. An av- www.cafeimbir.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. K) erage meal runs about 350Hr-400Hr.=B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 20, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 70 74, www.la- CHASHKA catania.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 00:00. %) Forget the address - you will never find it that way. Just make your way to the Pinchuck Art Gallery - opposite the SKYARTCAFÉ Bessarabs’ka market-Chashka is two doors to the left of it. This unique café is located on the 6th floor of the Pinchuk There is seating outside and inside where there is a trendy Art Centre. The décor is pure white and of a special geomet- Italian type of décor. As the name implies one can get rical design with a lovely view of the city. It was so bright a good cuppa here. There is also limited menu know as we had to wear sunglasses. The all vegetarian menu is in “Little Italy”. The prices are very reasonable ranging from English and contains soups, salads, and light meals. Prices 45Hr-65Hr. It is a great place to hang out or bring your are moderate to pricy. It is closed when the Art Center is device and check your emails. Speaking English is natural closed for changing exhibits.=B-5, Сhervonoarmiyska- there.=B-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 1-3, tel. (+380) 50 416 Baseyna 1-3/2, L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 561 78 41. 34 16. Open 08:00 - 23:00.  Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. )

38 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Drink & Party Kyiv is much more of a club city than a bar town. There BOCHKA is a bar and club scene at the heart of the city centre, but Bochka is a no nonsense pub perfectly located for start- don’t be surprised if you encounter more of your own ing or wrapping up your bar-hopping adventure. Top lo- countrymen than Ukrainians in these establishments. It can cal rock, pop and hip-hop acts perform Tuesday-Sunday. be difficult to find an empty table on weekends, especially Cover charge varies on the notoriety of the band, but is when many popular expatriate hangouts offer drink spe- more or less reasonable. For a taste of Kyiv that’s sure to cials at peak hours. On weekends and holidays, the main make its way into the memory bank, try Bochka’s house street of Khreschatyk is closed to automobile traffic, making brew available in dark, light and live. The interior is massive it Kyiv’s most active scene for nightlife, people-watching, or by local standards, so even on packed nights it’s possible a casual stroll. For something a little more active and excit- to find some elbow room. Local and Euro cuisine is on ing, jazz and techno dance clubs are just as busy now as hand. The price on menu items is a touch steep for a pub, any time of the year. but the breakfast and lunch specials are value and flavour packed.=B-4, B.Khmelnytskoho 3B-1, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 390 61 06. Open 24hrs. 

BARS & PUBS DOROTHY’S PUB BABAI PUB The sign out front read “Dorothy’s Pub”. (Cue The Twilight The name translates to “bogie man”, though there was Zone theme song.) Have I been transported back to my nothing scary at all here. It’s a nice sports bar with ter- native state of Utah? The scenes of Monument Valley and race seating for 50+; its right in the centre with friendly Arches National Park, the Osmonds glaring at me from the English speaking staff and menu as well. There is European menu with their cheesy Colgate smiles and the sweet smell and Ukrainian cuisine with an average meal costing just of Western American style barbecue creeping out from un- 100Hr. There is a breakfast menu served 09:00-12:00, and der the saloon doors are all eerily familiar. Or am I in Kyiv? Monday-Friday there is a 30% discount on all items from No. It couldn’t be. The service here is far too good for Kyiv. 12:00-16:00 (excluding alcoholic drinks). There are large TV Where am I? And who the hell is Dorothy? As it turns out, I screens to watch the football games on at any time.=A-4, am in Kyiv, and Rod Serling is not sitting next to me munch- Pushkinska 25, Teatralna, tel. (+380) 44 235 75 76, ing on ribs, nor is he sipping on a Czech beer, nor is he sam- www.babai-family.com.ua. Open 24hrs. #) pling the Turkish style calamari, but if he were still alive I’m sure he would not object to such a wonderful mishmash BAR ON 8 of sites, sounds and flavours. And who is Dorothy? No one With its vantage point on the 8th floor of the first inter- seemed to know. (Cue more Twilight Zone theme song.) national five-star hotel in Kyiv, situated in the middle =H-3, Saksahans’koho 16/43, L’va Tolstoho, tel. of Sofiivs’ka Square and overlooking the magnificent (+380) 44 287 05 30. Open 11:00 - 05:00. % St. Sophia Cathedral and St. Michael’s Golden–Domed Cathedral, Bar on 8 offers the breathtaking panoramic FUN BAR BANKA views in the city. Being an all-day lounge, Bar on 8 also As the name implies – it is a fun bar – we saw lots of stu- serves light dishes such as salads, sandwiches, steaks and dents there. The décor is unique with lots of Campbell desserts. During warmer months, guests enjoy alfresco Soup posters on display. They serve great food as well! dining with variations of meat and seafood grilled to per- It is European menu – in English with an average meal fection on the Australian grill and original tandoor oven. costing about 150Hr. The Business Lunch is great for just =C-3, A.Tarasovoyi 5, Hyatt Regency Kyiv, Maidan 44Hr weekdays from 12-16. =A-4, Lva Tolstoho 11/61, Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, www.kyiv. Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 458 25 25/(+380) 93 regency.hyatt.com. Open 11:00 - 02:00. & % 284 45 45, www.bankabar.com.ua. Open 12:00 - 01:00. %) BAVARIAN BEER HOUSE Basically across the street from Olympic Stadium, this German pub is the real thing! Authentic German food along with European and Ukrainian cuisine can be found here for very reasonable prices. An average meal like the famous currywurst with fries and a German beer will run you around 150-200Hr. The menu is in English as well as German – and staff is very helpful. There are smoking and non-smoking areas. From Monday-Friday 12:00-16:00 there is a business lunch for 60Hr.=A-5, Esplananda 34/2, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 287 42 03, www.bavarian-beer-house.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. #) If there is anything you don’t know about jars, go to Banka bar!

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 39 Drink & Party GOLDEN GATE IRISH PUB This is a true Irish Pub with the largest selection of draught beer in Kyiv. The menu has special beer appetisers. There are darts, a billiard room, big screen TVs for sports fans, and live music every Friday and Saturday. Golden Gate offers business lunch on weekdays and breakfast at the weekend.=B-3, Zolotovorits’ka 15, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 51 88, www.karta.ua. Open 11:00 - 01:00.  (% NATURLIH PUB The most striking feature of Naturlih is it amazing selection of draft beer - one of the grandest we’ve come across in Kyiv. Have the barman pull you a top German, Dutch, Czech, English, Belgian, Irish or local brewski, then sit back and watch the bustling hordes hike up historic Khmel’nts’koho Streets around the “Golden Gate” host the most popular bars in town street from the cosy view inside. The pub/restaurant offers scrumptious menu items to go with the suds including TROLLEYBUS PUB German style sausages, pasta, pizza and classy euro din- It’s more than a pub-restaurant; it’s a shrine to “trolley bus- ner items. The spacious halls and laid-back atmosphere es”! It’s not far from the “Golden Gate” and contains memo- are conducive for conversations.=B-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho rabilia galore along with old photos of trolley buses and 3, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 279 79 29, www.naturlih. depicting the glorious days of the Soviet Union. There is also com.ua. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. ) a display of “carpet paintings” and lots of souvenirs. There O’BRIEN’S is seating for 100 which includes a covered terrace and a Kyiv’s first Irish pub is still a favourite with expats and up- VIP section. The cuisine is Ukrainian and European with the wardly mobile Ukrainians. O’Brien’s bars serve up plenty of speciality being their “hot pots”, lots of different beer, and a beer great with none-too-shabby pub food like shepherd’s large selection of cocktails. An average meal will run around pie, and their Irish breakfast is enough to hold you until 100Hr. There is a business lunch weekdays from 12:00-15:00 dinner. Upstairs you’ll find darts, billiards and the city’s for just 45Hr.=B-4, Prorizna 21, Zoloti Vorota, tel. best atmosphere for watching sports on the big screen. (+380) 44 279 34 34, www.trallebus.com. Open 07:00 - =C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 17A, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 02:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. ) (+380) 44 279 15 84, www.obriens.kiev.ua/eng. Open 08:00 - 02:00.   CLUBS PIVBAR BEER & BEEF If you are familiar with the club scene in other parts of This is a great beer bar right in the centre of town with Europe, you will feel at home with the loud atmosphere, room for 200. There are all sorts of beer - the specialty overpriced drinks, and relatively high entrance fees of Kyiv’s being beer in a jar with a dry-salted fish to accompany it. nightclubs. A few differences you might note are the avail- They have a great limited menu - the special is their assort- ability of hookah (Middle Eastern flavoured tobacco), profes- ed grill – unlimited meat for just 139Hr. Definitely worth sional dance or model shows, and it is socially acceptable for it! On Friday there is a DJ, and Saturday and Sunday there men to dance with each other. Guys, be wary of the young, is a live rock group.=C-4, Globus Shopping Mall - 2nd attractive women some clubs hire to entice foreign men to part, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 99 044 33 spend money on champagne, overpriced dinners and drinks. 34, www.piv-bar.com.ua. Open 12:00 - 01:00. ) ARENA ENTERTAINMENT SUNDUK This venue was the official hangout for Eurovision 2005 The main features of this classic pub are the pleasant wooden participants. It is an entertainment complex accommo- interior and bill transactions made via a treasure chest. In spite dating several bars and a night club under one roof. In of a noticeable attempt to copy Western styles in the interior, any case, you may wind up your night out in the night the music is very Eastern. The dishes and drinks listed on the club partying untill dawn.=B-5, Basseina 2A, L’va menu are not necessarily present in the kitchen. Nevertheless, Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 492 00 00, www.arena-kiev. if you plan to arrive after 18:00, it would be better to reserve com/eng. Open: restaurant and Beer House 09:00 - a table beforehand and prepare for being consumed by 04:00, Sport-Bar 12:00 - 04:00, night club Tue - Sun cigarette smoke even in the room for non-smokers.=C-3, 22:00 - 06:00. #"  Mykhailivs’ka 16, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 14 65. Open 11:00 - 23:00.  ART CLUB 44 The legendary Kyiv cellar on Khreschatyk is one of the only More great bars at joints in Kyiv where the music is raw, loud and saturated kyiv.inyourpocket.com with adrenaline. Over the years, 44 has become a favou-

40 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Drink & Party rite for artists, musicians, writers and pseudo-intellectuals. reasonable prices, and the service is warm and friendly. Don’t let the aesthetic changes disorient you. Head for the This is a café and bar during the day and a night club in well, and choose from the offering of more than 15 vari- the evenings. The menu, in both English and German eties of beer.=B-4, Khreschatyk 44, Khreshatyk, tel. languages, is of European and Ukrainian cuisine. Live mu- (+380) 279 41 37. Open 10:00 - 02:00.   sic with a dock style interior.=B-4, Khreschatyk 15/4A, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 278 17 17, en.docker. AZHUR com.ua. Open 12:00 - 06:00.  This stereo disco club is a real diamond of Kyiv night life. The best music from the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s provides a D*LUX ENTERTAINMENT bright and dazzling atmosphere. The Beetles, Elvis Presley, A Spacious, huge complex with a 2 story disco, lounge Marilyn Monroe, Lisa Minnelli, the Rolling Stones, and the bars with live music, 2 terrace-restaurants, and a gift Doors songs guarantee an unforgettable night in this club. shop. Well known DJ’s perform with PJ’s (go-go dancers). =A-4, Leontovycha 3, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 The staff was friendly and English speaking. The menu is 234 74 94, fax (+380) 44 278 50 05, www.avalon.ua. in English, not so large and not so cheap. Entrance (for Open 20:00 - 06:00.  % parties only) is 200Hr for men and 100Hr for women. A strict dress code; smart, casual, is strictly enforced. Disco is BOOM BOOM ROOM from 00:00-06:00.=C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 3, Maidan Boom Boom Room has gotten the reputation of being “the Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 200 90 91, www.dlux.com. after party place” in Kyiv. People go there when other places ua. Open 12:00 - 06:00.  %) closed. It’s called a Night & Day Club as it is sometimes open to mid-morning. First impression is stunning! The design is “Neon” and covers two large dance floors. There is good music and good DJ’s. The atmosphere is relaxed - none of the snobbish type visit here-mostly students and young adults. There are some excellent cocktails - at moderate prices. (No food!) There is no entrance, but one must register on Facebook. Once approved, one is put on a list and notified. There is still a strict dress code to pass upon entering. We took this to mean face profiling.=G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bulv. 33, Universytet, tel. (+380) 95 514 88 88, www. boomboomroom.com.ua. Open 23:00 - 08:00. )

CARRIBEAN CLUB One of a few great dance places in the city Want to test your salsa skills? Carribean Club proudly pres- ents the live rhythms of the Latino group “disLOKAdos”. СOYOTE UGLY For you novices, the dance school is one of the first and Coyote Ugly Saloon is a famous bar in the United States and most popular salsa schools in Kyiv. The cost of one les- is now in 22 locations worldwide. It is a club whose simple son is 50Hr.=G-2, Symona Petliury 4, Universytet, theme is to combine beautiful women and large amounts of tel. (+380) 44 288 12 90, www.caribbean.com.ua/eng. alcohol-which Ukraine has plenty of! It is a very large club ca- Open 18:00 - 06:00. Admission 50-120Hr for men, 20- tering to a young crowd mostly in their 20’s & early 30’s. With 80Hr for women.   the latest disco hits played. There are various party themes DISCO RADIO HALL and guest DJ’s nearly every week when there is an entrance This fashionable nightclub is wedged in the hull of a float- fee, otherwise it is free entrance. They even their own brand ing entertainment complex that also houses a karaoke of whiskey and a gift shop with a limited range of underwear, club and a Japanese restaurant. It attracts some of Kyiv’s clothing, and souvenirs. =I-3, Mechnikova 9A, Klovska, hipper residents including local celebrities. Well-known tel. (+380) 44 280 06 78, www.coyoteuglysaloon.com/ DJs and many exciting live acts fill the club’s docket. Tables kiev. Open 20:00 - 06:00.  ) can be reserved for 300-1000Hr, and an admission fee ap- SORRY BABUSHKA plies.=I-1, Moskovskyi prosp. 32, tel. (+380) 44 428 73 This club has elbowed into the space formerly occupied 88, www.disco-club.kiev.ua. Open 22:00 - 06:00. Closed by the once popular Sound Planet. Very few changes have Mon, Tue. Admission 50-80Hr for males, 50-60Hr for fe- actually been made to the new club’s interior, but with a males. Sun is free for females.   completely overhauled concept, Babushka has become DOCKER’S ABC an immediate hit among the capital’s clubbers. On the There aren’t many venues which encourage their custom- first floor you’ll find karaoke, the second floor spins 80’s ers to dance on the table, but Docker ABC is just that! This and 90’s and disco until your platforms cave in on the third Rock n’ Roll joint is a lively raucous affair where bands floor. Other special offers can be found throughout the play to an enthusiastic crowd determined to dance and week at Babushka’s Vnuchata (grandchildren’s) Party.=G-2, flirt until sunrise. All manner of cocktails are available at Dmytrivs’ka 18/24, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 486 03 00, www.sorrybabushka.com.ua. Open 22:00 - 05:00. 

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 41 What to see Kyiv’s sightseeing to-do list is topped by its famous platforms, the views of Volodymys’ka vul. and surrounding gold-domed churches and cathedrals, magnificent sanc- area are stunning enough to justify the price of admission. tuaries of worship that impress with their history and art. =B-3, Volodymyrs’ka 40, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 Since everybody needs souvenirs to take home, God kindly 234 70 68. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00. Closed created Andriivs’kyi uzviz. Next are the city’s museums, Mon. 15Hr for adults, 8Hr for children and students. historical monuments, and finally a wonderful open-air museum on the edge of the city limits. Spring is generally mild, so there should be plenty of opportunity to enjoy the outdoors and the central squares.

ESSENTIAL KYIV ANDREW’S DESCENT (ANDRIIVS’KYI UZVIZ) This is without a doubt one of Kyiv’s oldest and most be- loved streets. In ancient times it linked the administrative part of the upper town with Podil, the lower town of mer- chants and artisans. This steep and winding cobblestone lined descent is a traditional venue for outdoor festivals and fairs, and is dotted with numerous intriguing art gal- A marvellous creation by the architect Horodecki leries, museums, cafés, bars and restaurants. Being at the very heart of the city’s art community, the street is a fa- vourite stop for tourists in search of paintings and tradi- HOUSE WITH CHIMERAS tional Ukrainian crafts. This is also a well-known repository Built more than a century ago by eccentric Kyivite for all souvenirs tacky and/or Soviet. Artisans come out in Wladislaw Horodecki, this is the most unique structure in full force on weekends and big holidays. The intriguing Kyiv. Sophisticated architectural forms are buried beneath building at N°15 is referred to by Kyivites as “Richard’s Cas- the phantasmal figures of Horodecki’s dreams. The ele- tle.” It is currently under reconstruction, but no worries...a phant trunk storm drains, rhinos, antelope, gigantic frogs, hidden gem is around back. Head down the street, and to mermaids and other figures are constructed of cement, a the right you’ll find a steep, twisting flight of iron steps. state-of-the-art material back in the 19th century. A local Those with calf muscles tough enough to conquer the cement factory owner provided Horodecki with a compli- climb are rewarded with a commanding vantage point mentary supply knowing that the interest generated by above Podil and the Dnipro. The Bulgakov Museum is a such an unusual home would pay-off. Ahead of its time, must visit for literary enthusiasts, and is located at N°13. the design makes full use of the uneven Kyiv landscape: =C-2, Kontraktova Ploscha. Three stories rise on one side and six descend the hill on the other. The interior design was also considered radically GOLDEN GATE modern, and included an ice room for food storage, a wine Zoloti Vorota, one of the most unique architectural/ar- cellar, a laundry room, a garage for horse drawn carriages chaeological sites in Kyiv, reopened in 2007 after a lengthy and even a special room for Horodecki’s cow. This insured reconstruction. The remains of ancient Kyiv’s main gate fresh milk for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Shrouded in were originally constructed during the height of the Kyi- mystery and legend, this place continues to intrigue visi- van Rus, and are included on the UNESCO World Heritage tors.=C-5, Bankova 10, Khreschatyk. list. Painstakingly planned by historians and architects, the bright new construction that entombs the ancient walls is INDEPENDENCE SQUARE considered an exact replica of the original gate. From the During the last 10 years Maidan Nezalezhnosti has under- gone from the city’s central square to political instrument, and epicentre for generations and the symbol of unity of Ukrainian nation. In 2004, it gained world notoriety for staging the events of the Orange Revolution. Images of the square circulated the globe for weeks as Ukrainians from all walks of life changed/delayed the course of Ukrainian his- tory. On 21 November 2013, Maidan again broke down all the globe front-lines. The rallies has started in Kyiv and other cities following the government’s decision to stop European Union integration by rejecting an association agreement. For over 3 winter months, protesters were standing on Maidan, demanding for the President resignation and changes in the country. Violent events were happening here 18-20 Febru- ary 2014, including almost total burning down of the Square, Independence Square, January 2014 about 100 killed and over a thousand wounded, when police

42 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see riot opened a fire on the unarmed protesters. In the memory ST. MICHAEL’S GOLDEN-DOMED CATHEDRAL of 100 killed, the former Instytutska street got the new name St. Michael’s Cathedral is located opposite St. Sophia’s Ca- of Nebesnoi Sotni Street (the Heavens Hundred). Architec- thedral. The original, built by Prince Sviatopolk in 1108, was turally the square is locally referred to as “The Big Green- destroyed by the Soviet regime in the 1930s for having “no house.” That’s not a botanical compliment but rather an historical value.” The reconstructed cathedral was complet- indictment of the Globus Shopping Centre’s glassy domes. ed in May 2000. Its sky blue exterior and glittering golden =C-4, Maidan Nezalezhnosti. domes add a stunning layer to a cityscape that has become a mix-mash of crumbling ancient and newly reconstructed. KHRESCHATYK A sobering reminder of Stalin’s inhumane policies stands to From its start at European Square to its terminus at the right as you exit the church grounds. This is a monu- Bessarabs’ka Square, Kyiv’s most beloved street is not even ment to the victims of Holodomor (starvation): A famine two kilometres long. Despite what has been called the most orchestrated in part by the Soviet leadership in an attempt impressive unbroken string of Stalinist architecture any- to squash the peasantry, as many as 10 million Ukrainians where, Khreschatyk’s wide chestnut lined sidewalks are ideal perished from 1932-33. Keeping watch over the square are for a relaxing stroll. On weekends and holidays, the street the reconstructed statues of Princess Olga, Apostle Andrew, becomes a pedestrian only thoroughfare where locals, trav- St. Cyrill and St. Mephodius.=C-3, Mykhailivs’ka ploscha, ellers and street performers mingle and frolic. Some of the Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 22 48. Open city’s best shopping can be found both above and below 08:00 - 19:00. Services held daily at 08:00 and 17:00, and ground. Trendy malls have been dug beneath Bessarabs’ka on Sundays at 08:00, 10:00, 17:00. and Maidan Nezalezhnosti. Perhaps in an act of poetic jus- tice the whole street will collapse under this retail strain and revert back to a lush valley.= Khreschatyk. KYIV UNIVERSITY Commonly known as Red Building (by its colour). It was built in 1837-1842 in Russian classicism style. The red and black colours correspond to the colours of the St. Volodymyr Or- der in Tsar’s Russia. Before 1917, the university was named St. Volodymyr. Since 1839, the university has carried the name of the prominent Ukrainian poet Taras Shevchenko (1819- 1861), which monument stands in front of the University in Shevchenko Park. =A-4, Volodymyrska 60. Lva Tolstoho. 1000 years of history - St Sophia’s Cathedral MOTHERLAND An enormous stainless steel statue of a fierce female war- ST. SOPHIA’S CATHEDRAL rior (68 m high, standing on a 40 m pedestal and hold- Kyiv’s oldest standing church, St. Sophia’s was built in 1037 ing a 12-ton sword in her right hand and a shield in the by Prince Yaroslav the Wise, who incidentally was laid to rest left) dominates the heights above the Dnipro River. Giant, inside. It was named after the famous St. Sophia’s Cathedral threatening and inescapable, the statue is known locally in Constantinople. This majestic 13-cupola sanctuary ad- as ‘Brezhnev’s Mother’, as L. Brezhnev opened the monu- joined Yaroslav’s Palace and became a holy place of worship ment in 1981. =J-4, Arsenal’na. for Kyivites as well as a political and cultural centre. With an interior of rich frescoes and mosaics, many of which are still intact almost a millennium later, the cathedral made a huge RELIGIOUS MONUMENTS impression on the ordinary worshippers of Kyiv. Today the ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH entire complex is protected by Ukraine, and also receives Famous Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli was the mas- support from UNESCO. The 18th century refectory works termind behind this attractive Baroque church that greets as a museum and contains archaeological artefacts and the throngs at the top of Andriivskyi Descent. Built in 1754, architectural displays, such as models depicting Kyiv as it it’s one of the rare buildings in Kyiv that has managed to looked before being razed by Mongol invaders in 1240. It avoid serious damage or reconstruction. The elegant silhou- costs a meagre 3Hr to enter the grounds. To enter the cathe- ette of its one large dome and five lesser cupolas are easily dral itself, purchase tickets from the kiosk around the corner visible from Podil and beyond. Apostle Andrew, who was from the bell tower entrance. As you exit don’t forget to the first Christian to preach the gospel in Kyivan Rus, was pose for the postcard - perfect picture with Cossack leader said to have erected a cross on this very site. It was the wish Bohdan Khmelnyts’kyi on his horse against the backdrop of Peter the Great’s religiously-minded daughter, Elizabeth, of St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Cathedral. Guided tours in after her visit to Kyiv in 1744 that this church be built. Con- English are available (80 - 100Hr).=B-3, Volodymyrs’ka 24, sole yourself with a stroll around the church’s perimeter, a Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 279 22 56. Open 10:00 walk which the famous Ukrainian writer Gogol also enjoyed. - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Thu. Admission 50Hr =C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 23, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. for all exhibits for adults, 20Hr for children and students. (+380) 44 278 58 61. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Entrance to the Bell Tower costs 10Hr/6Hr.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 43 What to see KYIVO-PECHERS’KA LAVRA This monastery made Kyiv the “Rome” of Orthodox Chris- tianity and continues to attract pilgrims from around the world. Its territory of 28ha contains not only churches, towers and an underground cave system, but also some of Kyiv’s most interesting museums. First about the name: In Ukrainian ’pechera’ means ’cave’, while ’Lavra’ is an Orthodox term given to its largest mon- astery. Founded in 1051 by monks Antony and Feodosiy, Lavra was called to spread the newly-adopted Christian religion throughout Kyivan Rus. Monks worshipped, lived and were buried in caves, where a cool and humid atmos- phere enabled their bodies to mummify naturally. This The main Ukrainian Orthodox Cathedral “miracle” further enhanced the monastery’s reputation. ST. VOLODYMYR’S CATHEDRAL The monks’ bodies have been almost perfectly preserved The Cathedral was built from 1862-1882 in a so called Rus- to this day. You can see for yourself by descending into the sian pseudo-Byzantine style. The frescos inside were made caves with a candle to lead the way. Of particular interest by famous Russian, Ukrainian and Polish artists, such as are those monks so humble that they only allowed their Vasnetsov, Nesterov, Vrubel, Pymonenko and Svedomsky. feet to be exposed. Women are required to wear scarves, The church belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox denomi- which are provided if you don’t have your own. English nation.=A-4, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 20, Universytet, tel. tours can be arranged at the ticket kiosk or with nice old (+380) 44 35 53 85. Open 06:00 - 19:30 Services are held ladies inside the entrance. daily at 08:00 and 17:00. Sat, Sun at 7:00, 10:00 and 17:00. Lavra became a leading religious and cultural focal point of Eastern Europe in the 12th century. Studios for icon painting and the creation of mosaics served many Kyiv churches, and a scriptorium oversaw the translation of foreign literature into Slavic. The influential Slavic history “The Chronicle of Bygone Years” was written here by the historian Nestor. Other notable features include the burial site of Yuri Dolgorukiy (founder of Moscow) inside the Church of the Saviour of Berestovo; and the 18th century bell tower, the highest in all of Ukraine at 96m. Following years of Communist rule, the government has recently returned many buildings to the Orthodox Church. The monastery now operates as the Kyiv Theological Seminary and Academy. There are also many museums on the territory, the best of which are listed below.=J-3, Central Synagogue Ivana Mazepy 21, Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 30 71, www.kplavra.kiev.ua. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admis- SYNAGOGUE sion: adults 50Hr, children 25Hr. The Central Synagogue was built in 1898 by eminent Kyiv philanthropist Lazar Brodsky. This striking architec- tural monument served as a Jewish religious centre for nearly thirty years until it was seized by the Soviet Union in 1926. For a short time it hosted a handicraft club, after which it was turned into a doll theatre. During the Nazi occupation, Germans used the synagogue as a stable for Wermacht horses. The building was returned to the Jew- ish community after the fall of the Soviet Union. Despite the serious damage that resulted from 70 years of neglect, the hall was immediately opened to parishioners. Today a number of Jewish educational, religious and cultural pro- grammes are held here. The Museum of Jewish Heritage is also housed within, and displays ancient books, candela- bras, Menorahs and bas-reliefs.=A-5, Shota Rustaveli 13, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 00 69.

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44 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see

MUSEUMS LAVRA MUSEUMS A SMALL-SCALE KYIV EXIBITION OF MICROMINIATURES This private collection presents the famous Kyiv buildings A world of wonder is presented for the visitors of this in miniature. Do not miss the unique opportunity to see inimitable exhibition. The exhibits displayed here are them from a bird’s eye view without flying. A perfect en- so tiny that they can be seen only under the micro- tertainment choice for kids and adults. Located in Hidro- scope. Every work of art is exceptionally unique and park near to the Mill restaurant. =K-3, Brovars’kyi prosp. have been made by the craftsman M.Syadrystyi, Hon- (near MLYN Restaurant complex), Hidropark, tel. orary Master of Ukrainian Folk Art. His creative art in- (+380) 44 516 46 10/(+380) 44 541-03-56, minikiev.kiev. spired the creation of a new world - “microminiature”. ua. Open 10:00 - 1700 Admission 15Hr. Free for children =J-3, Ivana Mazepy 21 (Lavra), Arsenal’na, tel. and senior citizens. (+380) 44 280 81 37, www.microart.kiev.ua. Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Tue Close every day from 13:30 BULGAKOV MUSEUM - 14:30 for lunch. Admission 10Hr, children 6Hr. The celebrated Russian writer Mikhail Bulgakov lived in this house from 1906-1916 and again from 1918-1919. It was MUSEUM OF HISTORICAL VALUABLES here that he wrote the novel The White Guard and the play It is sure that the Louvre, the Hermitage, or the Prado Days of Turbins. The old Bulgakov family home is now home would be happy to have such a collection of Scythian to the Bulgakov Museum, which displays the author’s per- gold as this museum. The gem of the collection is the sonal things and family photos.=C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz so-called Pectoral, Scythian queen’s neck adornment 13, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 31 88/ from the 4th century B.C. The 1.4kg Pectoral was made (+380) 67 493 45 25, www.bulgakov.org.ua. Open 10:00 of pure gold by a master craftsman of the time. Despite - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 30Hr. its very old age the well-preserved detailing is amaz- Excursion (up to 15 persons) - 100Hr. ing. The second most important valuable is the silver bowl unearthed from the Gaiman Barrow and kept in specially designed chamber filled with inert gas. This is far from all one can see in the nine halls of this museum. The treasures of Kyiv Rus, West European and Jewish ceremonial silverware, and works by the best Ukrainian jewellers of the past and present can all be found here. =J-3, Lavrska 9 (Lavra), Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 13 96, www.miku.org.ua. Open 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Mon. Admission 30Hr, children 15Hr.

A time machine 7 km from the city centre MUSEUM OF UKRAINIAN DECORATIVE ART The original art of the Ukrainian people is widely rep- COSSACK’S SETTLEMENT MAMAJEVA SLOBODA resented here: icons, decorated eggs, embroidery, In the middle of XVII century French engineer and cartog- clothing, pottery, glass, faience, etc. There are special rapher Guillaume Le Vasseur de Beauplan said “Ukraina est displays devoted to the work of the famous artists Kat- Terra Cosacorum” (Ukraine is a Land of Cossacs). Almost eryna Bilokur and Mariya Pryimachenko.=J-3, Lavrska 400 years after in seven kilometres from the main street of 9 (Lavra), Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 36 93. Ukraine’s capital an open-air museum Mamajeva Sloboda Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 20Hr, Cossacs’ Village has been settled. The Cossack’s Sloboda children 3Hr, students 5Hr, retirees 7Hr. with its 98 exhibition objects is located on the 9 hectares and represent replicas of historical settlement depicting MUSEUM OF BOOKS AND PRINTING Ukrainian nature and lifestyle of the old times. Except just The museum is located in the space formerly oc- walking around and watching Mamajeva Sloboda offers cupied by the Lavra typography, which was built in excursions and folk craft master-classes, horse riding, driv- the 18th century. The collection includes manuscript ing a horse-drawn carriage, firing a salute from Cossack’s volumes from the times of Kyivan Rus, the first Ukrai- cannons, arrangement of genuine Ukrainian weddings and nian printed editions of the Lviv ’Apostle’ (1574) by banquets according to old traditions and many more. We Ivan Fedorov (Ukraine’s first printer), the ’Ostroh Bible’ also can recommend you to taste historical traditional dishes as well as fine examples of old Ukrainian book illus- in their shynok (Ukrainian restaurant).=E-3, Dontsia 2, tel. trations and many other rare exhibits.=J-3, Lavrska (+380) 44 361 98 48/(+380) 063 782 78 31 (tours depart- 9 (Lavra), Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 22 10, ment), www.mamajeva-sloboda.ua. Open 10:00 - 17:00. bookmuseum-ua.livejournal.com. Open 10:00 - Admission 100Hr. Excursions in English, German, French, 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 15Hr, children and Italian and Spanish are available, but must be arranged students 5Hr. in advance. Tours for 10 people and more costs 130 Hr.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 45 What to see IVAN HONCHAR’S MUSEUM PYROHOVO MUSEUM The Museum was founded in September 1993 and is based on Ivan Honchar’s (1911-1993) private collection. During the Soviet period he was accused of nationalism. All those who manifested interest in his collection were registered with the KGB. The collection represents the “Ukrainahood” of the 17-20th centuries and has 15 000 pieces. The centre piece of Honchar’s collection are the folk pictures, the inventive hero “Mamai Cossack” is espe- cially popular. Also impressive is the elaborate collection There is a place in Kyiv where you can say “Let’s go to of clothes from the 18-19th centuries (2500 samples) as the 16th century Carpathians” and then find yourself well as pottery art exhibits (630 plates, dishes, crockery there in a matter of minutes. No…we’re not offering and zoomorphic ceramic toys).=J-4, Ivana Mazepy 29, you a ride in Doc Brown’s Delorean time machine. It’s Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 288 92 68/(+380) 44 288 Pyrohovo - a picturesque open-air museum of old 54 19, www.honchar.org.ua. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Ukrainian lifestyle and folk culture. Mon. Admission 15Hr, 3Hr for children. The museum is divided into areas representing differ- ent regions of Ukraine. The clay huts roofed with thatch KYIV FORTRESS MUSEUM or wooden shingles and the archaic barns and wells This part of the city’s fortifications was built in 1844. Argu- recreate an authentic village atmosphere. Everything is ably, this structure’s history has more do with defenseless meant to bring you back to the Ukraine of 16th to 19th people rather than defending people. It was here that centuries. At Pyrohovo you will find wooden churches, supporters of the Tsar carried out executions of political windmills, and even a school building typical of rural ar- prisoners, including the leaders of a Polish rebellion, in the eas from recent centuries. If everything at the museum 1860s. At the beginning of the 20th century, participants seems very authentic, that’s because it really is. Most of in a revolt of the Kyiv Pioneer Regiment met the same the buildings are in fact original and were moved here fate. Also during this time, ammunition and weapons piece by piece from villages all over Ukraine. were stored in this semi-underground fortress with solid From the main entrance, the road leads you across a large brick and stone walls.=A-6, Hospital’na 24A, Palats wheat field to the the Church of the Great Martyn, Saint Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 01 46. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri Paraskeva Friday (1742), the small Church of the Archan- 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14Hr. gel Michael (1601), and a unique collection of windmills “vitriaky”. Next, on the hillside, you will come to the Podil- lia region sector with the Church of Saint Nicholas and a bell tower from the beginning of the 19th century. A little farther on, visitors can see the Polissia region sector dominated by the unique hip-roof Voskresens’ka Church (17th-18th century). The exposition of village huts (kha- tas) here is unique for their age (1587 to 1687). In the northern part of the museum, the Carpathian sector features scattered small farms, with the bell tower of the ancient Pokrovska Church rising above. Pyrohovo is also a great park - a pleasant retreat with plenty of space for playing games with kids or for a leisurely afternoon in the shade of trees. If you want to get around faster, you may rent a bike or even hire a Though there is not much to see in the Fortress, horseback ride. And if you care for your spiritual well- it is a great place for walking around and viewing being, visit the church service on Sunday. Held in one the beautiful rooftop of Olimpiyskyi stadium of the museum’s beautiful ancient wooden churches, MODERN UKRAINIAN FINE ARTS COLLECTION it is a real adventure for your soul. On display are collections of ancient Ukrainian icons, classics Traditional fairs are organised at Pyrohovo in May and of Ukrainian painting of the beginning of the 20th century, September, to mark the beginning and the end of the Ukrainian art of realism and sociorealism of the second half season. But don’t worry if you miss them. There are of the ХХ century are widely represented here as well as the plenty of festivals and celebrations going on at Pyro- works by underground artists of 1960-1970s. There are also hovo the whole season. =Pyrohovo, marshrutkas available two exhibition halls for temporary displays (the #172 and 156 from, Lybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 526 entire 1st floor and the small exhibition hall of the third 57 65/(+380) 44 526 25 27, nmnapu.org.ua. Open floor). =D-2, Hlybochyts’ka 17, Kontraktova Ploscha, 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 30Hr, 10Hr for students. tel. (+380) 44 463 76 69, [email protected]. English-speaking guides available. ua, modern-museum.org.ua/en/index.htm. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Hr, for students 10Hr.

46 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see MUSEUM OF RUSSIAN ART Outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg, one of the larg- KYIV IN A DAY est collections of Russian art is housed here. The build- ing belonged to the upper-class Tereschenko family and We suggest you to start your journey from the Univer- was built in the 1880s. Private artworks confiscated and sytet metro station (A-3 on the map). To the right from nationalised by the Soviets along with the Tereschenkos’ the metro exit at the first traffic light is the entrance to holdings formed the bulk of the museum’s exhibits when Fomin’s Botanical Garden (p.50). Just one block away it was opened in 1922. The most prized displays are a col- on the opposite side of Shevchenko Boulevard is an an- lection of exceptional Russian icons dating back to the late cient St. Volodymyr’s Cathedral (p.44). 13th century. The museum features artwork from many Just one block away in downtown direction there is a famous Russian painters such as I. Repin, M. Vrubel and large beautiful park called Shevchenko Park (p.51). Turn N. Rerikh, as well as sculptures, handicraft and graphics. right to the central entrance of the main building of Kyiv =A-4, Tereschenkivs’ka 9, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 University (p.43) or the Red Building. 234 62 18, www.kmrm.com.ua/eng. Open Tue, Fri 11:00 Directly across Shevchenko Boulevard with the Opera - 19:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Thu. House in view is the monument to the first Ukrainian Admission 30Hr, 10Hr for students, 5Hr for children. president, Mykhailo Hrushevsky (1866-1934), continu- English tours 250Hr. ing down the street brings you to the Teacher’s House and finally to one of Kyiv’s most magnificent buildings, the Kyiv Opera and Ballet Theatre (p.15). This would be a good time to purchase tickets for an evening per- formance (the ticket office opens at 11:00). Keep walking on Volodymyrska St. one block and on your left is the Golden Gate (p.42). Once again, we return to Volodymyrska St. and keep on walking. The building num- bered 31 on your right is the former KGB headquarters, which now belongs to the SBU (Safety and Security Ser- vice). Try to look smart, the security cameras on the sides of the buildings work 24 hours per day. Next the road will bring you to Sofiivska Square with St. Sophia’s Cathedral (p.43), the great work of Prince Yaro- Museum of the Great Patriotic War slav the Wise from the 11th century, and a monument to the Ukrainian Hetman Bohdan Khmelnytsky on horse- MUSEUM OF THE GREAT PATRIOTIC WAR back. In front of you is St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Ca- This World War II memorial complex, which opened in thedral (p.43), which will be visited later in this tour. 1981, includes a museum with 18 different galleries, an Continue past this famous hetman with the monument eternal flame, plaques honouring particularly heroic Sovi- always to your right. A narrow street, with the pink fire et cities and an outdoor display containing military planes station on your right, leads you to another intersection. and other equipment from various wars. The centrepiece Cross the street and St. Andrew’s Сhurch (p.43) gold and of it all is of course the massive titanium statue of a wom- green domes begin to show in the distance. Walking on an, 62m tall to be exact, grasping a 12-ton sword and a the left side of the street toward the church are a set of shield. Honouring Soviet defenders during World War II, stairs on the left that take you to the National History its Socialist Realism style is an interesting contrast to the Museum (p.48). To the left starts one of the most unique nearby ancient golden domes of Pecherska Lavra. If you’re art-projects in Kyiv - Peyzazhna Alley (p.52). just slightly worried about the ‘Mother of the Motherland’ Returning back down the stairs leads you to one of Kyiv’s being a tad too top-heavy, you’re not the only one. There most unique streets, Andrew’s Descent. At the bottom of have been scattered reports that the whole structure was the hill come down to Sahaidachnoho St. This is a quaint not build very soundly and is danger of falling over, but so little street with many shops and restaurants right off the far so good.=J-4, Lavrs’ka 24, Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) end of the little park in the centre of the square. Walk along 44 285 94 52, www.warmuseum.kiev.ua. Open 10:00 - this street to Poshtova Square, were you can take the 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, 3Hr for students. Funicular, on your right, up to the Mykhailivs’ka Square 36 m view point - 50Hr, 91m view point - 200Hr. where St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Cathedral is located. NATIONAL ART MUSEUM The beautiful parkway behind the cathedral takes you to Built in the late 19th century in the style of a Greek tem- St. Volodymyr’s statue (built in 1853). The scenic point on ple with a six-column portico designed by Kyiv architects the terrace shows views of Podil and the left bank. Contin- Horodetskyi and Boytsov, valuable collections largely un- ue on the path and you will leave the park and see the grey known to Western visitors are contained in the museum’s dome of Kyiv’s largest catholic churches, Oleksandrivsky 21 galleries. Pieces include Ukrainian icons, paintings, and Cathedral, build in 1817-1842. To conclude the tour walk sculptures from the 14th century through the early 20th down Kostyolna Street to Maidan Nezalezhnosti (p.42).

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 47 What to see century. Works of revered artist and poet Taras Shevchen- ko, M.Pymonenko, K.Kostandi and H.Narbut are some of JEWISH KYIV the highlights of the museum.=C-5, M.Hrushevs’koho 6, Maidan Nezalezhosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 13 57, www. With the beginning of Perestroika in 1985, Jewish namu.kiev.ua. Open , Wed, Thu, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Fri communities that had suffered under the Communist 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admis- regime began to be become more active. Jewish lead- sion 20Hr, 10Hr for students, 5Hr for children. ers from all over the world came to Ukraine to restore religious structures and revive the formerly oppressed NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM communities. Brodsky Shul, the centre of Jewish reli- Located on a bluff above Andriivs’kyi uzviz, this museum gious and cultural life, is located in what used to be the carries forth on a wide range of topics concerning Ukraine’s Jewish quarter near Palats Sportu. Across the street is history from prehistoric times up to the present day. There the Great Kyiv Synagogue Community Centre, a mul- are extensive collections of old books, coins and bills, works tifunctional institution that unites the activities of the of art and archaelogical and ethnographical findings. Be- synagogue, humanitarian aid projects, cultural and lan- hind the museum is a path that leads to a wonderful view guage education. Since the Bolshevik Revolution, Jew- from Old Kyiv’s highest point overlooking the lower town of ish Ukrainians were oppressed in both their public and Podil.=C-2, Volodymyrs’ka 2, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) private lives. During the Great Patriotic War, as World 44 278 29 24. Open 10:00 - 16:45. Closed Wed. Admission war II is referred to here, Ukrainian Jews were executed 24Hr, 12Hr for students and children. by the thousands in western villages and cities. The worst slaughter in Kyiv occurred at the Baba Yar, mean- ing the “Ravine of Women”, named so after the women who would visit soldiers stationed at this former lonely outpost of the Kyiv Russ. In 1943, 32,000 Jews were taken here by Nazi soldiers, shot, and pushed by a bulldozer into the shallow ravine. The number of peo- ple killed there equals approximately one-third of the entire Jewish community of Kyiv today, and the park is located within the city where the victims lived. The largest of the two memorials at the site is actually in the wrong place. After its construction, the sculptor If you missed a tour to Chernobyl, built a small memorial where the people had actually the museum in Podil is definitely worth a visit been shot. There are plans to create a museum and larger monument at Baba Yar, funded by various Jewish CITY TOURS organisations from around the world. MYSTERIOUS KYIV NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CHERNOBYL Mysterious Kyiv propose exclusive tours on Secret Kyiv This museum does an excellent job of actually making you places, Kyiv Caves, Secret Stallin tunnels under Dnipro feel like you are at the site of the infamous nuclear accident. river, tours to Chernobyl Zone. Tours in your language. Road signs from towns and villages near Chernobyl greet =tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, [email protected], you as you ascend the stairs, and as you descend the signs www.interesniy.kiev.ua. are crossed out to signify your departure. It’s usually rather OPEN KIEV empty, but then again so is the contamination zone. A few Hop-on Hop-off daily sightseeing bus tours on open top exhibits could be a bit scary for kids, such as life-sized cos- double decker with fantastic views of Kyiv. The first circle tumes with gas masks and pictures of deformed animals. starts at 10:00 from the stop next to Maidan Nezalezh- Audio-guide is available in English, German, Russian and nosti. You can catch a bus on one of 25 stops around Kyiv. Ukrainian.=D-1, Khorevyi prov. 1, Kontraktova Plos- Buses go roughly every 20 minutes. =C-3, tel. (+380) 44 cha, tel. (+380) 44 417 54 27. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 227 28 63, www.openkiev.com.ua. Open 11:00 - 19:00. - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10Hr, children 3Hr. Ticket 250Hr for 2 days, kids - 150Hr, under 7 for free. THE KHANENKO MUSEUM OF ARTS SPUTNIK8.COM The house was owned by a famous collector of art and ben- Those who want to get down and really meet the lo- efactor Bohdan Khanenko (1849-1917), and his wife Varvara cals rather than just sweatily bumping into them on the (1852-1922). In 1919, on the base of their private collection, a streets, in metro carriages and late night clubs - join this museum was opened in this house. For a long period of time it service tours. Whether it be hidden roof top vistas, flea was known as Kyiv State Museum of Western and Eastern Art. markets, cooking classes, art studios, or extreme tour to Now its initial name has been given back. The embellishments underground Kyiv. Guided tours in English from 60Hr.=D- of the collection are works of outstanding Renaissance mas- 1, Yaroslavska 28, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) ters. Rich diversity of genres distinguishes the museum’s hold- ings of North European countries. The exposition of Spanish

48 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see art includes two true gems from the XVII century - “Portrait of Infant Margarita” by Diego Velasquez and “Still Life with Choc- HISTORY olate Milk” by Juan de Zurbaran.=A-4, Tereshchenkivs’ka 15- 17, L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 235 02 06, www.khanen- p. 11 INDEPENDENCE komuseum.kiev.ua. Open 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. On 24 August 1991, following a failed Soviet coup, the Admission 20-30Hr, 10Hr for students. English tours 250Hr Supreme Soviet declared Ukraine independent. On 1 De- by appointment (group of 10-25 people). cember of the same year, a referendum made independ- THE MUSEUM “MEMORIAL IN COMMEMORA- ence official, and voters choose Leonid Kravchuk to be the TION OF FAMINES’ VICTIMS IN UKRAINE” nation’s first democratically elected President. Almost 90% During the whole existence of the Soviet Union regime of respondents said YES to Ukrainian independence. Ukrainian people endured horrible tragedies - famines of The Moscow central bank cut off the delivery of Rubles 1921-1922, 1932-1933, 1946-1947, which took millions of leaving Ukraine with enormous inflation and panic. In 1994, Ukrainian’s lives. The worst humanitarian catastrophe of in the atmosphere of social tension, new Presidential elec- 20th century for Ukraine was an artificially engineered by tions were announced. Leonid Kuchma won and served Stalin’s regime Famine of 1932-1933, during which 3 941 two terms as a President of Ukraine. He was faced with 000 people died. Museum is dedicated to the victims of poverty and despair. On June 28, 1996 the new Constitu- these awful tragedies. Excursions are held every hour from tion of Ukraine was adopted. On 2 September of the same 10:00.=C-6, Glory Park, tel. (+380) 44 254 45 11, www. year, the Hryvnia was introduced as the new monetary unit. memorialgolodomors.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed A more flexible foreign policy was also stirred by Kuchma. Mon. Admission 5Hr. Excursion in English 100r. But in 2001, Anti-Kuchma demonstrations in Kyiv culminat- ed in violent confrontations between protesters and police. In 2004, new Presidential elections took place. Official re- sults put Prime Minister Viktor Yanukovych ahead, a result which was supported by President Leonid Kuchma. Protes- tors supporting democratic candidate Viktor Yuschenko arrived from all over the country and camped for weeks in front of the Verkhovna Rada and Maidan Nezalezhnosti in tents, prompting the Ukrainian Parliament to put the re- sults on hold pending review. These events became known as Orange Revolution. The Election Committee ordered a re-vote. On 23 January 2005, Viktor Yuschenko was inaugu- Tu-22- Capable of carrying nuclear weapons rated as President. The “Orange” coalition, however, failed the expectations of supporters due to personal ambitions. THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AVIATION At the Presidential elections in 2010, Viktor Yanukovych A place rarely mentioned by travel guides to Kyiv. More than won and became president for nearly two terms. 70 airplanes and helicopters, rockets, weapons, engines and Following the government’s decision on 21 November, the world’s only collection of the Tu-22 bombers capable of 2013 to stop European Union integration by rejecting an carrying nuclear bombs and everything is on the ground so association agreement, a series of mass protests swept you can not only see them, but also enter inside some of the across Ukraine. On the night of 30 November, 2013 at 4 exhibits. Getting there is a bit tricky, but believe us it worth a in the morning, around 300 students and other protesters little effort. Tours in English are available for 200Hr. The most who remained at the protest site were brutally attacked by convenient way to get there is by tax (60-70Hr from the city the Berkut - a special police unit. On 1 December, about centre). By public transport, take trolleybus #8 from Lva Tol- 200,000 people came to Maidan Nezalezhnosti to demon- stoho metro station or Universytet metro station (the stop on strate for their rights and freedom. Since then, there were the side of St Volodymyr’s Cathedral), take off at Sevastopol- daily demonstrations with the protesters committed to ska Sq. On the same stop catch a minibus #220. The Museum continue as long as needed, until their demands were met. is its last stop. Admission 20Hr. One visit to the aircrafts - 5Hr. On 18 January, 2014, the protest became more violent and =E-5, Medova 1, tel. (+380) 44 451 83 14, www.aviamu- Molotov’s cocktails were used as a response to the Berkut seum.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. attacks. Several people died. On 18-20 February, an even more violent confrontation took place which took the lives THE ONE STREET MUSEUM of over 100 people and wounded more than 1000. This fascinating little museum near the bottom of Andriivs’kyi uzviz tells the rich history of this important street through the On 22 February, the Verkhovna Rada announced the im- years. Special attention is paid to recreating the atmosphere peachment of President Yanukovych and a new Govern- of this thoroughfare during the turn of the 20th century. ment was formed. A week later Russia invaded Crimea, us- =C-2, Andriivskyi uzviz 2B, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. ing the excuse of protecting the rights of Russians who live (+380) 44 425 03 98, onestreet.kiev.ua. Open 12:00 - 18:00. there... As we go to press, there is still no end to this story. Closed Mon Admission 20Hr. English guided tours 150Hr.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 49 Parks & Gardens For centuries, Kyiv has had the reputation of being one of Europe’s greenest cities. In the 11th Century, the city’s inhabitants began planting near Pechers’ka Lavra Monas- tery and in front of Zoloti Vorota (Golden Gate). Descrip- tions from the 16th and 17th Centuries testify that nearly all the courtyards were adorned with gardens. By the end of the 18th Century, landscaping projects of private manors became more numerous and elaborate, and the chestnut tree planted its roots as the city’s symbol. This led to Kyiv being referred to as a city “buried in verdure”. The first park was established in Kyiv in 1631, and sub- sequent parks sprang-up all along the right bank of the Dnipro River. A number of these parks remain, and in- clude Volodymyr’s Hill, Khreschatyk Park, The City Garden, A visit to National Botanical Gardens in May is a must! Mariins’kyi Park, Askoldova Mohyla and Pechersk Land- scape Park. HRYSHKO NATIONAL BOTANICAL GARDENS Adjacent to the Vy du bytskyi Monaste ry, Hryshko National Botanical Gardens displays over 13,000 varieties of plants, flowers and trees used for horticultural research by the Ukrainian Academy of Sciences. Construction began in 1944 with prisoner of war labour, but the gardens were not completed until 1964. One of the most spectacular natural sights in Kyiv is the blooming of the lilacs here in May, which brings tourists, artists and photographers from all over to enjoy the variety of colours and types on display. Throughout the summer and into autumn, the roses are in bloom and from July through August there is a strik- ing display of lilies.=J-5, Tymiriazivs’ka 1, Druzhby Narodiv. Open 08:30 - 21:00. Admission for adults 20Hr, children 5Hr. Eternal Fire in Glory Park

ETERNAL GLORY PARK MARIINSKYI PARK Glory Park located between Arsenal’na metro and Kyivo- Finding Mariinskyi Park is easy. It’s located opposite all Pechers’ka Lavra, is definitely worth checking out. Not the illegally parked, decked-out luxury cars waiting on only an interesting vantage point of the Dnipro, the tree “hard-working” members of Verkhovna Rada (Ukraine’s and shrub-lined walkways provide a unique foreground Parliament). A few years back, the park was given a face- for snapshots of Lavra’s golden domes. Admission is free. lift – rickety benches replaced and new paths created. A =J-3, Slavy pl., Arsenal’na. Open 24hrs. musical venue known as “The Cockleshell” is located in the North-East corner. All are welcome Friday nights at FOMIN’S BOTANICAL GARDENS 22:00 for salsa dancing. Classical and jazz concerts are Fomin Botanical Gardens was founded in 1939 by Kyiv also scheduled throughout the summer. Open-air fes- University, and is located behind the university’s “Red tivals, featuring both Ukrainian and international artist, Building”. Though not quite as impressive as its name, the take place practically every day and start at 18-19:00. The garden does display many types of unique local and ex- pride of Mariinskyi Park is the Tsar’s Fountain. In the past otic flowers, plants and trees. It is best visited in mid to this served not only as an ornament, but for practical uses late summer when all of the plants have had a chance to completely recover from the torturous winter. Although forbidden, shish-kebab parties and picnics take place just about every day of the week (rain or shine), so you may find yourself wading through discarded plastic kitchen- ware on your way to the next exhibit. If you’re lucky/un- lucky enough to receive a random invite to one of these little galas, just go with the flow. The main entrance to the park is located on Shevchenko bul’v. next to Universytet metro. Admission is free.=A-3, Universytet. Open 24hrs. Tours to tropical and subtropical plants every day only at 10:00, 13:00 and 15:00 (Entrance from Ko- minternu Str.). Admission for adults 10Hr, children 5Hr. Tsar’s fountain in Mariinskyi park

50 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Parks & Gardens as well. Citizens could purchase six buckets of water for the extremely reasonable price of one kopek. Is your goat thirsty? Livestock were also welcome to drink from the fountain (one kopek per head). Admission is free. =D-6, Arsenal’na. Open 24hrs.

SHEVCHENKO PARK Shevchenko Park is not just a monument of gardening and landscape architecture; it is Kyiv’s embodiment of ev- erything beautiful. How so many gorgeous colours, sights A monument to Taras Shevchenko and sounds can be packed into such a small area is beyond reason. The park is located on the corner of Volodymyrs’ka PARK FEOFANIYA and Shevchenka bul’v., opposite Taras Shevchenko National The park built in 1912, is in a picturesque area at the edge University and, therefore, attracts scantily clad coeds by the of the city, around the Church of St Pantaleon. Since 2003 dozens. For decades, this has been the prominent scene for huge renovations and remodelling have been made and chess enthusiasts, who reign over the park’s south-west despite its remote location, the park has become one of corner. Verbal disputes and even scuffles between oppo- the favourite places for days out. There are several lakes, nents are a common sight, as vodka and gambling are indis- a children’s playground and dozens of beautiful places pensable parts of the game. From the centre of the park, a to take photographs. There is a worship path in the park, solemn looking statue of Taras Shevchenko (the greatest of where the one can find several springs one of which is the classic Ukrainian literary figures) gazes down, like a stern named as “Tears of the Mother of God”. Another spring yet loving father, on his hedonistic spawn. Admission is free. is famous for its water temperature. Even during the hot- =A-4, Tereshchenkivs’ka, L’va Tolstoho. Open 24hrs. test summer days it has +8 c, and never goes below +4c in the winter. Weekends might be a little crowded here, but you will certainly find a nice place to sit and enjoy the warm spring days. It takes a slight effort to get there... Take marshrutka # 548 from metro stations Pecherska, Druzhby Narodiv or Lybidska and exit at the final stop. = Akademika Lebedeva 19, www.feofaniya.kiev.ua. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Admission 10Hr, children 7-16 - 5Hr, kids under 7 for free. Monthly pass - 50Hr.

Prince Volodymyr brought Christianity to Kyiv Rus in the year 988

VOLODYMYRSKA HIRKA Volodymyrska Hirka is one of the most popular places in Kyiv, and for good reason. Spectacular views overlooking the Dnipro will have you reaching for your camera, and the bricked pathways that cut the park into a series of ter- races are lined with benches and shaded by trees provid- ing the perfect respite from the blistering heat. The park’s centre-piece is the distinctive statue of Prince Volodymyr the Great (crafted in 1853), who is credited with establish- ing Christianity in Eastern Europe. The park can be accessed from the bottom of the hill by walking up Triokhsviatytelska Street past “Ukrainian House”. From the top, pass through Mykhailivska Square and around St Michael’s Monastery. Admission is free. =D-3, Triokhsviatytel’s’ka, Maidan Feofania’s amazing landscapes Nezalezhnosti. Open 24hrs.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 51 Shopping MANDARIN PLAZA SHOPPING MALLS The seven story Mandarin Plaza shopping centre is conve- niently located close to the city centre, in the Bessarabs’kyi BILSHOVYK district. The Plaza features numerous stores, offering Kyiv was once a bustling industrial hub and it has the goods of every kind. Boutiques - those sanctuaries of high boarded-up factories to prove it. The closure of these spa- fashion - feature the latest creations by the world’s best cious facilities has opened up new opportunities for the known designers. A children’s club makes it a great place retail sector. This is the case with Bilshovyk: a modern and to shop with kids.=B-5, H-3, Baseina 4, Khreschatyk, attractive shopping mall set in a renovated factory. It is tel. (+380) 44 230 95 50, fax (+380) 44 230 95 91, www. located a short walk from the Shuliavs’ka metro station. mandarin.kiev.ua. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Bilshovyk offers shoppers an abundance of stores and boutiques as well as numerous entertainment possibili- ties such as restaurants, cafes, bowling, ice skating, an ar- cade, and a children’s play land.=E-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, Shuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 54, www.trc- bolshevik.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00. #' ) DREAM TOWN When Dream Town was opened, it instantly became one of the favourite places for Kyiv residents. Divided in two parts and located between 3 metro stations in the Obolon dis- trict, it has a very unique design. Each entrance to the centre is designed in a specific theme. You will find yourself in Paris or Greece, Hollywood or China. It is the largest shopping mall in Kyiv - 81000 sq m, and has everything you can want or imagine. Hundreds of world-brand shops, electronics, food supermarkets, an aqua park, roller rink, go carts, a fairy- tale skating ring, bowling, billiards, the only curling centre MANUFACTURA OUTLET VILLAGE in Ukraine, a cinema, a shooting area, and much more. Kyiv has a lot of shopping malls, but this one, opened in There are dozens of different restaurants for any type of October 2013, offers something really unique. Entering the wallet. There is one thing we are not happy about in about outlet area you open a travel door to some small and cosy Dream Town - they have pay toilets! From the city centre European town with brand stores instead of residential take the blue metro line.=N-2, Obolons’kyi prosp. 1B, buildings. Over 100 boutiques are located on the territory of Obolon, Minska, tel. (+380) 44 428 36 11, www. Manufactura, representing world known brands such as La dreamtown.kiev.ua. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Coste, Lagerfeld, Chantal, Guess, Coccinele and many oth- ers. There are several fine restaurants, the Manufactura Art GLOBUS Centre, holding Ukrainian contemporary art exhibitions and Globus, located at Independence Square, is one of the best a children’s playground. The outlet centre is located 15 km places in the Ukrainian capital to go clothes shopping! to the south from Kyiv, in the picturesque Hodosiivka village. There are 192 shops on three levels - two of which are There is a free shuttle bus from Vydubychy metro station underground. You will find all your favourite brands here; (schedule can be found at the web-site), or local bus 309, Adidas, MEXX, Esprit, Motor Jeans, Polo Garage, Cacharel, departing also from Vydubychi.=Novoobukhivskiy high- Colin’s and Tommy Hilfiger. There are also shoe shops, way-2, b.2 Hodosivka village, Vydubychi, tel. (+380) jewellery, lingerie, and perfumery outlets.=C-4, Maidan 96 914 16 03, www.outlet.kiev.ua/en. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Nezalezhnosti (Underground), tel. (+380) 44 590 18 93, www.globus.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 21:00. OCEAN PLAZA Another good addition to the city’s shopping malls. It is lo- GULLIVER cated just about 10 minutes from the city centre. Take the The latest shopping mall in downtown Kyiv has opened blue line from Independence Square and exit at Lybidska in one of the new skyscrapers. Entering Gulliver, you find metro station. Ocean Plaza is right next to the metro exit. A yourself in a luxurious 8 level atrium. The mall houses 130 beautiful exterior design corresponds to its lovely interior. shops of closes, shoes, jewellery, perfumes, books, bags etc. 70000 sq m host around 300 brand shops, 30 restaurants The entertainment area hosts a cinema, bowling centre, fit- and cafes, a cinema, Auchan hypermarket and an enormous ness centre with a rooftop 25-m swimming pool giving a aquarium with tropical fish. There is also a great children’s panoramic view over the city. There is also “Cocktail Con- area – “Happylon”, a carting club, and several travel agen- noisseur Supermarket”, and a range of services such as travel cies and banks. The first KFC in Kyiv opened here. There are agencies, banks, a beauty salon and dry-cleaning. There is a several Japanese cafes, and for a fine dine we would recom- parking for 450 cars.=H-3, Sportyvna 1A, Palats Sport, mend the “Marlin Seafood Restaurant” just to the right of the tel. (+380) 98 555 55 09, www.gullivercenter.com. Open aquarium.=H-5, Gorkoho 176, Lybidska, tel. (+380) 44 10:00 - 22:00 entertainment zone until 02:00. 537 23 64, www.oceanplaza.com.ua. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

52 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Shopping

FASHION ATELIER 1 The only truly concept store in Ukraine based at the for- mer cold war bunker right at the heart of Kyiv. Atelier 1’s selling the most conceptual collections of menswear and womenswear from Japan and France (Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Peachoo and Krejberg, Comme des Garcons Parfums. Accessories, Bags) and Ukrainian Designers international collections. The Shop is divided into zones: collection rooms, Boiler room, Parfum Vault and Strong room. New format of Canteen is available. =A-4, Shevchenka bul’v. 10 (entrance from the yard), Lva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 288 05 50/(+380) 44 599 31 80, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 20:00.  )

FOOD & DRINK BILLA =B-5, Bessarabska pl. 2, Lva Tolstoho. Open 24hrs. Also at Globus Shopping Mall, Maidan Nezalezhnosti.

FURSHET =B-5, Baseina 4, Lva Tolstoho. Open 00:00 - 24:00 Also at: G-1, Yaroslavska 57, tel. 417 03 50. Open 24 hrs. G-6, Gorkoho 165, tel. 521 16 20. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

MEGAMARKET =H-4, Gorkoho 50, Olimpiyska. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Also at: Moskovs’kyi prospect 6, tel. 531 39 73. Open 09:00 - 24:00; Surikova 3, tel. 248 97 96. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS SILVER BELLS =J-3, Sichnevoho Povstannia 18/29, Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 254 57 77/254 57 78. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

SOUVENIRS =B-4, Khreschatyk 32, Khreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 235 41 34. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

KIDS ANTOSHKA =I-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 19/16, Pechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 286 26 21. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

LAPIN HOUSE =A-5, Shota Rustaveli 34, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 246 68 16. Open 10:00 - 20:00.

MOTHER CARE =B-5, Globus Shopping Mall, Maidan Nezalezhnos- ti, tel. (+380) 44 371 11 58. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 53 Directory Whether you are a traveller or an ex-pat our directory EUROPHARM contains many useful contacts for you. Remember to email =A-3, H-2, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 40/25, Universytet, us if you find any of our contacts particularly helpful or, for tel. (+380) 44 244 37 46. Open 00:00 - 24:00. that matter, unhelpful. We also welcome new additions. VITALUX Also at Dmytrivs’ka 2.=A-3, Shota Rustaveli 15B, Pal- 24H PHARMACIES ats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 593 22 22. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 03 APTEKA Also at Dorohozhyts’ka 17.=A-4, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 58, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 455 61 05. Open 00:00 - BEAUTY SALONS 24:00. DESSANGE Also at C-3, Hyatt Regency Hotel, tel. (+380) 44 537 63 BOSM PHARM 00.=B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 49A, Zoloti Vorota, tel. =A-4, H-3, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 17, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 569 60 00, www.dessange.com.ua. Open (+380) 44 235 50 17. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 08:00 - 21:00. 

DIVA HEALTH & BEAUTY CENTRE =A-3, B.Khmel’nytskoho 53/53, Opera Hotel, Uni- 5IF
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PECHERSK SCHOOL NK CLUB INTERNATIONAL, KYIV Among its many services, this all-inclusive beauty centre can cure those annyoying hair and cellulite problems.=C- www.psi.kiev.ua 3, H-2, Mykhailivs’kyi prov. 20, Maidan Nezalezhnos- 7a, Victora Zabily Str. ti, tel. (+380) 44 278 33 44, www.nkclub.com.ua. Open Tel: (+38044) 455-9585 Fax: (+38044) 455-9580 09:00 - 21:00. [email protected] CLINIC & HOSPITALS AMERICAN MEDICAL CENTRE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS Individual, family and corporate medical plans. Children’s health. Women health. 24hrs emergency visit, hospi- COLLÈGE FRANÇAIS ANNE DE KIEV talisation or evacuation abroad.=F-1, Berdychivs’ka 1, Primary and secondary school (3-17 years). French cirricu- Luk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 76 00, www. lum.=A-3, Chapaieva 21, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) amcenters.com. Open 24hrs. 44 200 19 93, fax (+380) 44 200 19 97, secretariat-kiev@ [email protected], www.adk.org.ua. Open 08:00 - 17:00. BORIS Emergency services for adults and children.=H-3, Cher- KYIV INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL vonoarmiyska 55A, Olimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 238 00 =Sviatoshyns’kyi prov. 3A, Sviatoshyn, tel. 00, www.boris.kiev.ua. Open 24hrs. (+380) 44 452 27 93/(+380) 44 452 29 98, kisukr@ sovamua.com, www.kievinternationalschool.com. CMD A full spectrum of laboratory tests with results within PECHERSK SCHOOL INTERNATIONAL 24hrs. Complex diagnostic programmes (therapy, cardi- =Zabily 7A, Lybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 455 95 85, ology, gastroenterology, immunology and allergology). www.psi.kiev.ua. =G-1, Pymonenka 10A, Lukyanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 239 12 23, www.cmd.kiev.ua. Open 24hrs, Sat 08:00 - THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00.  SECONDARY LABORATORY DR. ROEDGER =Tolbukhina 45, Nyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 Offers a full range of laboratory analyses. Samples are sent 21 10, [email protected], www. twice a week to Berlin in Germany for processing. They will britishschool.kiev.ua. give you a full run-down of your clinical health.=I-4, Staro- PRIMARY navodnytska 13 section A, office 48, Pechers’ka, tel. =Scherbakova 36A, Nyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 (+380) 44 569 28 28, [email protected]. Open 09:00 20 77, [email protected],ua, www.britishschool. - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. kiev.ua.

54 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Directory

DENTISTS MEDLIFE LUX A medical clinic of the highest quality and reputation offering the full range of dental services: prophylactics, hygiene, paradontics, therapy, orthodontics, restoration, implants, ceramics and paediatric dentistry.=O-2, Heroiv Stalingrada 20, Mins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 412 21 23. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

MASSAGE KINARI ORIENTAL SPA Just what Kyiv’s city centre needed: traditional Thai mas- sage and oriental SPA treatment. Qualified therapists are on hand to heal both body and soul and help put a bit of calming balance back into your hectic life.=A-3, H-2, Ivana Franka 40, Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 234 53 40/(+380) 93 620 60 40, www.kinari-spa.com.ua. Open More than 20 kinds of massages 10:00 - 22:00. and SPA treatments

MARRIAGE AGENCIES High-qualified masseurs MARRIAGE BY NATALI from Bangkok, Thailand =A-6, I-3, Hospital’na 2, office 23, Palats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 34 74/(+380) 44 232 08 03, www. marriagebynatali.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Relax atmosphere

Discount programs BUSINESS CONNECTIONS and club cards AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE =H-4, М. Hrinchenka 4, Palats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 490 58 00, www.chamber.ua. Gift certificates

BRITISH UKRAINIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE =C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 34A, suite 42, Arsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 410 57 20, adminstrator@bucc. com.ua, www.bucc.com.ua.

CHIEF DEPARTMENT OF FOREIGN ECONOMIC RELATIONS AND INVESTMENTS =B-4, Khreschatyk 44, Khreschatyk, tel./fax (+380) 44 278 18 71.

EUROPEAN BUSINESS ASSOCIATION (EBA) =D-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 1A, Kontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 496 06 01, [email protected], www.eba. com.ua.

UKRAINIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (UCC) =B-2, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 33, Zoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 272 29 11, www.ucci.org.ua.

REAL ESTATE DTZ ZADELHOFF TIE LEUNG =A-3, B.Khemlnytskoho 52, Teatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 590 30 60, [email protected], www.dtz.kiev.ua.

facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket March - May 2014 55 Street register

Akademika Bohomol’tsia Frometivs’ka H-5 Laboratornyi prov. H/I-4 Nahirnyi prov. L-6 Puhachova L-6 B/C-6, I-3 Frunze D-1, H-1, L-4/5, Laiosha Havro N-3, O-3/4 Nakhimova M-5/6 Puliuia F-5 Akademika Filatova I-5 M/N-6 Lavrs’kyi prov. J-3 Narodna G-4/5, F-5 Pushkins’ka A-5, A/C-4, Akademika Karpyns’koho Gor’koho H-3/5, I-5 Lebedieva-Kumacha E-3 Narodnoho Opolchennia H-2/3 E-4 Haidara G-3 Leiptsyz’ka J-3/4 E-4/5 Pylypa Kozyts’koho F-3 Akademika Yanhelia E-2 Haisyns’ka F/G-4 Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. Narodnyi prov. G-4 Pylypa Orlyka C-5/6, I-3 Aleia Heroiv Krut J-3 Havans’kyi prov. M-5 A-6, I-3/4, J-4 Nechuia-Levyts’koho G-5 Pyriatyns’ka J-4 Aliabieva M-5 Heroiv Dnipra M-1 Lesi Ukrainky pl. I-4 Nemyrovycha-Danchenka Redutna J-4 Andriia Holovka F-4/5 Heroiv Stalinhrada prosp. Lieskova I-4 I-4 Redutnyi prov. J-4 Andriivs’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 O-1/3 Liniina G/H-4 Nesterova E-1/2 Riznyts’ka I/J-3 Andriivs’kyi uzviz C/D-2, H-1 Heroiv Velykoi Vitchyznianoi Litnia I-4 Nimans’ka I/J-5 Rybal’s’ka I/J-3 Anri Barbiusa H-4, I-4/5 Viiny pl. J-4 Liuterans’ka B-4/5, I-2/3 Novokostiantynivs’ka Rybna F-5 Antonova E/F-4 Hertsena F-1 Lokomotyvna G-3/4 M-5/6 Sadova C-5, I-2 Anyschenka J-3 Hlazunova I-5 Lubens’ka I-5 Novopechers’kyi prov. I-4, Sahaidachnoho D-2/3, H/I-1 Arkhitektors’ka F-5 Hlibova G-2 Luhova L/M-2 H/I-4 Saksahans’koho G-2, G/H-3 Arsenal’na I-4 Hlybochyts’ka B/C-1, G/H-1 Lukashevycha F/G-3 Novovokzal’na G-4 Sant’iaho-de-Chili pl. O-2 Arsenal’na pl. J-3 Hlybochyts’kyi proizd G-1 Lukianivs’ka C-1, G/H-1 Nyzhn’oyurkivs’ka G/H-1 Saperne Pole I-4/5 Artema A-1, B-1/2, G-1, Hoholivs’ka A-1/2, G-2 Lukianivs’ka pl. G-1 Nyzhn’okliuchova E-3 Schekavyts’ka D-1, H-1 G/H-2 Honcharna C-2, H-1/2 Lybids’ka G-3 Nyzhnii Val C/D-1, H-1 Schorsa H/I-4 Bahhovutivs’ka F/G-1, L-6 Horodnia G-4 Lyps’ka C-6, I-3 Obolons’ka H-1, O-6 Schorsa prov. I-4 Baikova H-5 Hospital’na A-6, I-3 Lysenka A/B-3, H-2 Obolons’ka naberezhna Semena Skliarenka L-4 Bankova B/C-5, I-2/3 Hospital’nyi prov. A-6, I-3 Lyvars’ka L-4 O-1/3 Semenivs’ka G-4/5 Baseina A/B-5, H/I-3 Hryhoriia Andriuschenka M. Pryimachenko bul’v. Obolons’kyi prosp. N-1/5 Serhiia Strutyns’koho J-4/5 Bastionna J-5 F/G-2 I-4/5, J-4 Observatorna A/B-2, G/H-2 Sevastopol’s’ka pl. E-4 Bekhterevs’kyi prov. Huchnyi prov. F-4 Maiborody F-1 Ol’hyns’ka C-5, I-2 Sholudenka F-2 A-1,G-1/2 Husovs’koho I-3/4 Maidan Nezalezhnosti C-4, Olehivs’ka C-1, H-1 Shota Rustaveli A-5, H-3 Berdychivs’ka F-1 Illi Erenburha G/H-3 I-2 Olenivs’ka N-6 Shovkovychna B/C-5, I-2/3 Bessarabs’ka pl. B-5, H-3 Illins’ka D-2, H/I-1 Makarivs’ka L-5/6 Oleny Telihy E-1, L-4/5 Shuliavs’ka F-2 Bilokur J-5 Instytuts’ka C-4/6, I-2/3 Maksyma Kryvonosa F-4 O. Honchara A-2, B-3, G/H-2 Shyshkins’kyi prov. L/M-6 Bilorus’ka F-1 Isaakiana F-2 Mala Zhytomyrs’ka Oranzhereina E-1 Sichnevyi prov. J-3 Bohatyrs’ka M-1/4, N-4 Iskrivs’ka E-3 C-3/4, H-2 Ostapa Vyshni I-5 Simii Khokhlovykh E/F-1 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho Ivana Fedorova H-4 Malopidval’na B-3/4, H-2 Ostrovs’koho F/G-3 Skovorody D-2, H/I-1 A-2/4, B-4, G/H-2, H-3 Ivana Franka A/B-3, H-2/3 Marka Vovchka L-3 Ostrovs’koho prov. F-3 Slavy pl. J-3 Bohdanivs’ka F-3 Ivana Franka pl. B/C-5, I-2 Marshala Malynovs’koho Osvity F-4 Smilians’ka E-4 Bohuslavs’kyi uzviz M-6 Ivana Honty E-1 M-2, M/N-3, O-2 Otto Shmidta G-1 Smolens’ka E-2 Borschahivs’ka E/F-2 Ivana Klymenka F-4 Marshala Rybalka F/G-2 Ovruts’ka L-6 Smyrnova-Lastochkina Borychiv Tik D-2/3, H/I-1 Ivana Kudri I-4/5 Marshala Tymoshenka Ozerna F-4 B-2, C-1, H-1/2 Borychiv uzviz D-3, I-1 Ivana Mazepy J-3/4 M-2, N-1/2 Pan’kivs’ka G/H-3 Sofiis’ka pl. B/C-3, H-2 Botkina F-2 Iziums’ka H-5 Martyrosiana E-3/4 Panasa Myrnoho I-3, J-4 Sofiivs’ka B-3, C-3/4, H-2 Bozhenka H-4/5 Kadets’kyi Hai F-5 Mate Zalky O-3/4 Panfilovtsiv J-4 Soliana G-1 Bozhkiv Yar G-5 Kavkaz’ka F-3/4 Matrosova I-5 Panfilovtsiv prov. J-4 Solomians’ka F/G-4 Brats’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 Kerchens’ka E-4 Mechnykova B-6, I-3 Parkova doroha D-5/6, I-2, Solomians’ka pl. F-3 Brest-Lytovs’kyi prov. F-2 Khoryva D-1, H-1 Mekhanizatoriv F/G-4 J-2/3 Sotsialistychna E/F-4 Brians’ka F-4 Khreschatyk Mel’nykova F/G-1 Patrisa Lumumby I-4/5 Spas’ka D-2, H/I-1 Brovars’kyi prosp. K-2/3 B-4/5, C-4, H-3, H/I-2 Mendelieieva I-5 Pavla Pestelia G-2/3 Sportyvna pl. A-5/6, H-3 Buslivs’ka J-5 Khvoiky M-5 Metalistiv E-2 Pavlivs’ka G-2 Stadionna F/G-3 Chapaieva A-3, H-2 Kikvidze J-5 Mezhyhirs’ka D-1/2, H-1, Pecheniz’ka G-1 Stadionnyi prov. F/G-3 Chekhovs’kyi prov. A-2, Kirovohrads’ka G/H-5 N-6 Pechers’ka pl. I-4 Stara Poliana G-1 G/H-2 Kirovohrads’kyi prov. H-5 Michurina J-4/5 Pechers’kyi uzviz I-3 Starokyivs’ka F-2 Chervonoarmiis’ka H-3/5, Klinichna G-5 Mins’ka pl. N-2/3 Peremohy pl. G-2 Staronavodnyts’ka I/J-4 I-5 Klovs’kyi uzviz C-6, I/J-3 Mitskevycha E-3 Peremohy prosp. E/G-2 Starovokzal’na G-2/3 Chervonozorianyi prosp. Kmytiv Yar G-1 Moldavs’ka G-1 Perspektyvna I-4 Strilets’ka B-3, H-2 E/F-4, F/H-5 Komandarma Kamenieva Molodohvardiis’ka E-4 Pervomais’koho B-6, I-3 Students’ka G-1 Chervonyi prov. F/G-5 J-4 Montazhnykiv G/H-5 Petra Dehtiarenka L-1/3 Surykova F-3 Ches’ka I-5 Konduktors’ka G-4 Moskovs’ka J-3 Petra Kryvonosa pl. G-3 Suvorova J-3 Chokolivs’kyi E-3/4 Kontraktova pl. D-2, H-1 Moskovs’ka pl. H-5 Petra Nischyns’koho F-3 Symona Petliury G-3 Chornohirs’ka I-5 Kopernyka F/G-1, F-2 Moskovs’kyi prosp. L/O-4 Petrivs’ka B-1, H-1 Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v Chornomors’ka M/N-5 Kopylivs’ka L-5 Murashka F/G-1 Petrivs’ka aleia C/D-4, I-2 A-3/5, G-2, H-3 Darvina B-5, I-3 Korabel’na M-5 Muzeinyi prov. C-4/5, I-2 Petrovs’koho E-3 Tarasivs’ka H-3 Dashavs’ka E-2/3 Korolenkivs’ka H-3/4 Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho Pidhirna G-1 Tatars’ka G-1 Dehtiarivs’ka E/F-1 Kosmonavtiv pl. E-3 C-4/6, D-6, I-2, I/J-3 Pidvysots’koho I/J-5 Tel’mana H-4 Dehtiarna B/C-2, H-1/2 Kosohirnyi prov. B-1, G-1 Mykhaila Myshyna E-4 Piters’ka E-3 Ter’okhina L-5 Delehats’kyi prov. L-6 Kost’ol’na C-4, I-2 Mykhaila Zadniprovs’koho Platonivs’ka F/G-3 Tereschenkivs’ka A-4, H-3 Desiatynna C-3, H-2 Kostia Hordiienka prov. I-4 Pochainyns’ka H/I-1, O-6 Tolstoho L’va pl. A-5, H-3 Dmytrivs’ka G-2, L-5 B/C-6, I-3 Mykhailivs’ka pl. C-3, H-2 Podil’s’kyi uzviz L-5/6 Topoleva F-3 Dniprovs’kyi uzviz J-3 Kostiantynivs’ka Mykhailivs’kyi prov. Pokrovs’ka D-2, H-1 Tovarna I-5 Dobrosusids’ka F/G-5 D-1/2, H-1, N-6 B-3/4, C-3, H-2 Pol’ova E-2/3 Tr’okhsviatytel’s’ka Dobrynyns’ka L/M-3 Kotsiubyns’koho A-2/3, H-2 Mykoly Amosova G/H-4 Pol’ovyi prov. E-2 C-3/4, H/I-2 Dokuchaievs’ka G-4 Koval’s’kyi prov. E-2 Mykoly Hrinchenka H-4/5 Poliarna L/M-1 Travneva G-5 Donets’ka E-4 Kovpaka H/I-5 Mykoly Kravchenka Politekhnichna E/F-2 Trukhanivs’ka I/J-1 Dorohozhyts’ka E-1 Kozhumiats’ka C-1/2, H-1 F/G-2, G-1 Politekhnichnyi prov. F-2 Tsytadel’na J-3/4 Dovnar-Zapol’s’koho F-1/2 Koziatyns’ka J-4 Mykoly Ostrovs’koho G-3 Polovets’ka G-1 Tul’chyns’ka L-5 Dovzhenka E-1/2 Krasnodons’ka G-3/4 Mykoly Pymonenka Poltavs’ka G-2 Tul’s’ka pl. N-4 Druzhby Narodiv bul’v. Kropyvnyts’koho B-5, I-3 A-1, G-1/2 Polzunova G-3 Turgenevs’ka A-1 H/J-5, J/K-4 Kruhlouniversytets’ka B-5, Mykoly Raievs’koho I-4/5 Poshtova pl. D-3, I-1 Turivs’ka N/O-6 Druzhby Narodiv pl. N-3 I-3 Myl’nyi prov. M/N-6 Povitroflots’kyi prosp. Tvers’ka I-4, H-5 Druzhnia G-3/4 Krutohirna F/G-5 Naberezhne shose F-2/4, E-4/5 Tvers’kyi tupyk I-4 Dubens’ka J-5 Kudriashova G-3/4 D-3/6, I-2, J-2/3, K-4 Predslavyns’ka H-4, I-5 Tykha I-5 Dymytrova H-4 Kudriavs’kyi uzviz B-1, G-1/2 Naberezhno- Profinternu H-5 Tymiriazievs’ka J-5 Dzerzhyns’koho pl. I-5 Kupians’ka G-5 Khreschatyts’ka Prorizna B-4, H-2 Tymofiia Shamryla E-1 Elektrykiv N/O-5 Kurenivs’ka L-4, M-3/4 D-3, I-1 Protasiv Yar G/H-4 Umans’ka E/F-3 Elektrykiv prov. N-6, O-5 Kurs’ka F-3 Naberezhno-Luhova N/O-6 Providnyts’ka G-3/4 Universytets’ka F-4/5, G-5 Emsta E-5 Kutuzova I/J-4 Naberezhno-Pechers’ka Pryozerna O-4 Uryts’koho F/G-3 Esplanadna A-5, H-3 Kyrylo-Mefodiivs’ka F-2 K-4/5 Pryrichna O-1 Ushyns’koho E-3/4 Ezhena Potie E-1 L’va Tolstoho A-4/5, G/H-3 Naddniprians’ke shose Pryvitna G-4 Vadyma Het’mana E-2/3 Fastivs’ka E-4 L’vivs’ka pl. B-2, H-2 K-4/5 Przheval’s’koho F/G-5 Vandy Vasylevs’koi F-2 Frometivs’ kyi uzviz H-5 Laboratorna H-4 Nahirna L/M-6 Pskovs’ka H-5 Vasylia Yana H-3

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60 Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Index

Сoyote Ugly 41 Dva Gusya 34 M17 16 SkyArtCafé 38 ALFAVITO 20 Dynamo Stadium 49 Mandarin 30 Sorry Babushka 41 American Chamber of Dzyga 14 Mandarin Plaza 52 Souvenirs 53 Commerce in Ukraine 55 Eshak 36 Manufactura Outlet Village 52 Sputnik8.com 48 American Medical Centre 54 Europcar 7 Mariins’kyi Park 50 St. Andrew’s Church 43 Andrew’s Descent 42 European Business Association 55 Marriage by Natali 55 State Museum of Ukrainian Antoshka 53 EuroPharm 54 MedLife Lux 55 Decorative Art 45 Antwerpen 34 Exibition of Microminiatures by Megamarket 53 St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Arena Entertainment 40 M.Syadristyi 45 Motherland 43 Cathedral 43 Arizona BBQ 28 Fairmont Grand Hotel Kyiv 18 MTS 10 St. Sophia’s Cathedral 43 Aroma Espresso Bar 38 FC Dynamo Kyiv museum at Museum of Historical St. Volodymyr’s Cathedral 44 Art-11 14 NSC Olimpiyskiy 46 Valuables 45 Sunduk 40 Art Club 44 40 Federal Express 9 Museum of Modern Ukrainian Taras Bulba 28 A small-scale Kyiv 45 Fellini 32 Fine Arts Collection 46 T.G.I. Friday’s 28 Atelier 1 53 Fomin Botanical Gardens 50 Museum of Russian Art 47 The Bohdan and Varvara Avis 7 Foodtourist 33 Museum of the Great Patriotic Khanenko Museum of Arts 48 Azhur 41 Fun Bar Banka 39 War 47 The British International School 54 Babai Pub 39 Furshet 53 Mysterious Kyiv 48 The Museum “Memorial in Bakkara Art-hotel 20 Gagarin 26 National Art Museum 47 Commemoration of Famines’ Baobab Mistycal Café 38 Galytskyi Shtrudel 38 National History Museum 48 Victims in Ukraine” 49 Barkas 36 Gapchinska 15 National Museum of The National Museum of Bar on 8 39 GastroRock 33 Chernobyl 48 Aviation 49 Batkivska Hata 35 Globus 52 National Philharmonic 14 The One Street Museum 49 Bavarian Beer House 39 Golden Gate 42 Naturlih Pub 40 Tike 36 BaзAAR Braserie 32 Golden Gate Irish Pub 40 Nebo 32 TNT 9 Beef’s Bar 28 Gorets 30 NK Club 54 Tourist Information Centre 9 Bilshovyk 52 Grill-Bureau Pache 31 NSC Olimpiyskiy 49 Tri 36 Bochka 39 Gulliver 52 O’Brien’s 40 Trolleybus Pub 40 Boom Boom Room 41 Han Gang 33 Ocean Plaza 52 Tryptych 16 Boris 54 Hertz 7 Odessa Cafe 32 Tsekh Gallery 16 Boryspil Airport 6 Himalaya 34 Ok Bar & Restaurant 33 Tsentralnyi Avtovokzal 7 Bosm Pharm 54 Holiday Inn Kiev 18 Olivie 34 Tubeteyka 36 Boutique Hotel Riviera 20 House of Organ and Chamber Open Kiev 48 U Golema 30 British Ukrainian Chamber of Music 14 Opera 19 Ukraina 14 Commerce 55 House With Chimeras 42 Osteria Pantagruel 35 Ukraine Hotel 26 Bruce Lee 30 Hryshko National Botanical Park Hotel Golosievo 23 Ukrainian Chamber of Brucie Collections 15 Gardens 50 Park Vichnoi Slavy 50 Commerce 55 Buddha-bar 33 Hyatt Regency Kyiv 18 Parter 16 Ukrainian State Museum of Bulgakov Museum 45 ibis Kiev Shevchenko Pechersk School International 54 Books and Printing 45 Butterfly Deluxe 14 Boulevard 23 PinchukArtCentre 16 UPS 9 Café Imbir 38 Independence Square 42 Pivbar Beer & Beef 40 Vagon-Restaurant 34 Café-Theatre Koleso 14 INK 31 Podol Plaza 24 Varadero 32 Carribean Club 41 IQ Hotel 25 Premier Palace 19 Varenichnaya Katusha 36 Central Post Office 9 Ivan Franko National Academic President Hotel 24 Vernissage 32 Central Train Station 6 Drama Theatre 14 Puzata Khata 34 Vitalux 54 Central Ticket Office 6 Ivan Honchar’s Museum, Radisson BLU 19 Vogue Café 32 Chaos 14 Ukrainian Centre of Folk Art 46 Radisson BLU Kyiv Podil 19 Volodymyrs’ka Hirka 51 Chashka 38 Jakob Grether art-centre 15 Ramada Encore Kiev 24 Vozdvyzhens’kyi Boutique Chechevica 30 Kanapa Restaurant Saloon 27 Rucola 35 Hotel 25 Chief Department of Foreign Karas Gallery 15 Rus 25 Whisky Corner 35 Economic Relations and Khreschatik 26 Senator Apartments 22 Why not? Chillout Kiev 26 Investments 55 Khreschatyk 43 Shevchenko Park 51 Zelena Kanapa 14 China White 30 Kiev Apartments 26 Silver Bells 53 Zheltok 28 Chocolate Boutique Vasiliadi 38 Kinari Oriental SPA 55 Sinoval 28 Zhulyany Kyiv Airport 6 Cimes 35 King David 35 City Park Hotel 20 Kinopalats 14 CMD 54 Kniazhyi Grad 27 FEATURES INDEX Collège Français Anne de Kiev 54 Kult RA 28 Cosmopolite 20 Kuvshin 30 Cossack’s Settlement Kyiv Academy Doll Theatre 14 History 11 Mamajeva Sloboda 45 Kyiv Fortress Museum 46 Orthodox Easter 12 Dark Side 31 Kyiv International School 54 Quick Picks 27 Da Vinci Fish Club 34 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 44 Pyrohovo museum 46 Dessange 54 KyivStar 10 DHL 9 Kyiv Young Theatre 15 A one day walking tour 47 Disco Radio Hall 41 Laboratory Dr. Roedger 54 Jewish Kyiv 48 Diva Health & Beauty Centre 54 La Cantina 38 D*Lux Entertainment 41 Lapin House 53 Dnipro Hotel 23 Le Cosmopolite 30 Docker’s ABC 41 L’Entrecote 31 Domus 23 Lesya Ukrainka Russian Drama Dorothy’s Pub 39 Theatre 15 Dream House Hostel & Bar 26 Life 10 Dream Town 52 Lun Van 30 DTZ Zadelhoff Tie Leung 55 Lybid 24

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