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Kyiv, Ukraine: the City of Domes and Demons from the Collapse Of Roman Adrian Roman Cybriwsky Kyiv, Ukraine is a pioneering case study of urban change from socialism to the hard edge of a market economy after the Soviet collapse. It looks in detail at the changing social geography of the city, and on critical problems such as corruption, social inequality, sex tourism, and destruction of historical ambience by greedy developers. The book is based on fieldwork and an insider’s knowledge of the city, and is engagingly written. Roman Adrian Cybriwsky is Professor of Geography and Urban Studies at Temple University in Philadelphia, USA, and former Ukraine Kyiv, Fulbright Scholar at the National University of Kyiv Mohyla Academy. He divides his time between Philadelphia, Kyiv, and Tokyo, about which he has also written books. “Roman Cybriwsky knows this city and its people, speaks their language, feels their frustrations with its opportunist and corrupt post-Soviet public figures Roman Adrian Cybriwsky who have bankrupted this land morally and economically. He has produced a rich urban ethnography stoked by embers of authorial rage.” — John Charles Western, Professor of Geography, Syracuse University, USA “Kyiv, Ukraine is an interdisciplinary tour de force: a scholarly book that is Kyiv, Ukraine also an anthropological and sociological study of Kyivites, a guide to Kyiv and its society, politics, and culture, and a journalistic investigation of the city’s darkest secrets. At this time of crisis in Ukraine, the book is indispensable.” — Alexander Motyl, Professor of Political Science, Rutgers University, USA The City of Domes and Demons “Filled with personal observations by a highly trained and intelligent urbanist, Kyiv, Ukraine is a beautiful and powerful work that reveals from the Collapse of Socialism profound truths about a city we all need to know better.” — Blair A. Ruble, Vice President for Programs, Woodrow Wilson Center to the Mass Uprising of 2013-2014 AUP.nl Cybriwsy_DEF.indd 3 2-6-2014 11:27:21 Kyiv, Ukraine The City of Domes and Demons from the Collapse of Socialism to the Mass Uprising of 2013-2014 Roman Adrian Cybriwsky Amsterdam University Press To my parents Dr. Alex Cybriwsky (1914-1996) and Myroslava (Baczynska) Cybriwsky (1914-2014). They were the first to teach me about Ukraine. Also in fond memory of Wilbur Zelinsky (1921-2013), the most cultured of cultural geographers. He taught me about doing fieldwork up close and about social conscience in geography. In honor as well of the heroic Nebesna Sotnya, the “Hundred in Heaven” who paid the ultimate sacrifice for Ukraine in February, 2014, during the Euromaidan protests in Kyiv. Their memory will live forever. Table of Contents A Note about Transliteration 15 Preface and Acknowledgements 17 1 Far from Heaven 27 1.1 A Curious Face 27 1.2 Graffito 29 1.3 A New American 29 1.4 Domes and Demons 31 1.5 A Changing City 33 1.6 Angry Citizens 36 1.7 Linking to the Literature 43 1.8 Postsocialist Urbanism 50 2 The Missing Museum of the History of the City of Kyiv 55 2.1 Life in Limbo 55 2.2 An Imperium of Raiders 58 2.3 Theater at Teatralna 60 2.4 A Dubious Home 63 3 Sketches from the Capital 67 3.1 Castle Hill 67 3.2 Notes from Euro 2012 71 3.3 Monumental Woes 75 3.4 Demons at Desiatynna 78 3.5 The Ukrainian Fight Club 82 3.6 A Missing Mayor 87 3.7 A Geography of the President 89 3.8 Helipad from Hell 96 4 Soviet Ways, Post-Soviet Days 101 4.1 Looking after Lenin 101 4.2 Red Army Birthday 105 4.3 One Day in the Life of the Ukrainian Language 109 4.4 May 18, 2013 118 4.5 Heorhiy Ruslanovych Gongadze 122 4.6 A Personal Warning? 124 5 Historical Memory 129 5.1 Place-name Gymnastics 129 5.2 Remembering the Great Patriotic War 132 5.3 Babyn Yar 136 5.4 The Holodomor Museum 139 5.5 The Legacy of Chornobyl 142 5.6 Rebuilding Religion 144 6 The Center of Kyiv 151 6.1 A Taste of History 151 6.2 Ghosts 158 6.3 Maidan: Independence Square 162 6.4 Khreshchatyk: Main Street Kyiv 169 6.5 TsUM in Transition 172 6.6 SS. Sophia, Michael, and Hyatt 175 6.7 Remaking Andrew’s Descent 177 6.8 Podil at a Crossroads 182 7 A Geography of Privilege and Pretension 189 7.1 A Diamond Monster 189 7.2 Face Control in Arena City 192 7.3 Men in Black 196 7.4 The Strange New Neighborhood of Vozdvyzhenka 200 7.5 Koncha Zaspa: Gated Hideaway 206 7.6 Bullies with Bentleys 209 8 Landscapes of Struggle 215 8.1 The Killing of Oksana Makar 215 8.2 Faces of Poverty 217 8.3 Petty Traders 228 8.4 The People’s Markets 235 8.5 The Scourge of Prejudice 242 8.6 Roma 247 9 “Suburbia” 253 9.1 The Residential Ring 253 9.2 Commerce, Cars, and Billboards 258 9.3 The Middle Class and the Malls 260 9.4 Four Photographs 264 10 Seamy Stories 269 10.1 “No More Heroines” 269 10.2 Visitors from Abroad 275 10.3 Sex Tourism 277 10.4 Export Wives 280 10.5 River Vice 282 10.6 The Voices of FEMEN 284 11 The Defenders of Kyiv 291 11.1 Hero City 291 11.2 The Grassroots 292 11.3 Save Old Kyiv 301 11.4 The Republic of Hostynyi Dvir 304 11.5 Oleksandr Glukhov’s Apartment 310 11.6 The Ordeal of Oleksandr Hudyma 312 11.7 The Last Farmstead in Pozniaky 315 12 Reflections 319 12.1 A Souvenir and a Song 319 12.2 A Messy Period 321 12.3 A Book Review 325 Postscript 329 References 337 Index 349 List of Illustrations and Tables List of Illustrations Figure 0.1 The author and 26 of his 27 students at Kyiv Mohyla Academy, May 2011, plus Peter 26 Figure 1.1 “Ukraine Is Far from Heaven” graffito 30 Figure 1.2 Olena Zhelesko with megaphone 39 Figure 1.3 A view of Kyiv across the Dnipro River 51 Figure 2.1 Exhibits from the Museum of the History of the City of Kyiv being packed up for moving to limbo (Courtesy of V. Kovalynskyi) 57 Figure 3.1 Under the People’s Friendship Arch 76 Figure 3.2 The small and controversial Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin 80 Figure 3.3 President Yanukovych’s notorious book Opportunity Ukraine (Courtesy of Alexander J. Motyl) 91 Figure 3.4 The helipad from hell 97 Figure 4.1 A scene from the Soviet-like February 22 (2011) “Defenders of the Homeland” celebration 108 Figure 4.2 Leaders of the three main opposition parties in Ukraine singing the national anthem after signing their historic accord 119 Figure 5.1 Sign with conflicting street names 130 Figure 5.2 Kyiv’s “Mother of the Fatherland” World War II memorial 134 Figure 5.3 The candle-shaped Holodomor Monument and Museum and a statue of a hungry girl 141 Figure 5.4 Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, a new church in Troyeshchyna 147 Figure 6.1 1 Yaroslaviv Val 161 Figure 6.2 Independence Square 163 Figure 6.3 The bell tower of St. Sophia Cathedral 176 Figure 6.4 Andrew’s Descent during reconstruction (Courtesy of Vladyslava Osmak) 178 Figure 6.5 Podil at a crossroads, literally 183 Figure 7.1 A glass-skinned “monster” rising from within historic buildings in the center of Kyiv 189 Figure 7.2 Diamond Hill rising from parkland atop the bluffs of right-bank Kyiv 191 Figure 7.3 A view of Vozdvyzhenka from above 202 Figure 7.4 The mansions of Koncha Zaspa as seen via Google Earth 208 Figure 7.5 This photograph was taken at an anti-corruption in government rally: “Caution! Oligarch at the Wheel” 211 Figure 8.1 Laborers gathered around a recruiter for day work outside Kyiv’s central rail station 220 Figure 8.2 Misha the handyman 227 Figure 8.3 One of the countless petty vendors in Kyiv, a great many of whom are elderly women 228 Figure 8.4 A view of a table at the secondhand market at Shulyavska 238 Figure 8.5 African vendors and their merchandise in the under- highway section of Shulyavska Market 241 Figure 8.6 A Roma husband-and-wife team of metal scrap collectors at work 250 Figure 9.1 “Start Living like a European!” 255 Figure 9.2 A large new private home close to Dnipro River beaches 257 Figure 9.3 Troyeshchyna village and parking garages from the roof of a high building 264 Figure 9.4 Traffic circle and Metro terminus at Heroiv Dnipra, north of the city center 265 Figure 9.5 New residential high-rises, commercial strips, billboards, and harsh distances for pedestrians in the Osokorky neighborhood on the Left Bank 266 Figure 9.6 Kyiv relaxing. The photo is of the walk along the beach in Obolon 267 Figure 10.1 Foreign men “shopping” along Khreshchatyk at Independence Square 277 Figure 10.2 Former restaurant-nightclub boats docked in limbo along the Dnipro River 282 Figure 11.1 Photo of angry citizens in demonstration 296 Figure 11.2 Three protesters against illegal construction (Right image courtesy of Vladyslava Osmak) 298 Figure 11.3 A controversial new construction site 304 Figure 11.4 Kyivans encircling Hostynyi Dvir in a symbolic action to defend the building from developers (Photo courtesy of Viktor Kruk) 305 Figure 11.5 Oleksandr Glukhov in his cold apartment 311 Figure 11.6 The last farmstead in Pozniaky 316 Figure 12.1 Kyivans in the sun together 321 Figure 13.1 Honoring the fallen at Maidan Nezalezhnosti after the killings of mid-February, 2014 335 List of Tables Table 1.1 Socialist and Postsocialist Cities Compared 52 Table 5.1 Shifting Place-names in Kyiv before and after Independence 131 Table 7.1 Selling Vozdvyzhenka 205 Table 10.1 Protest Activities by FEMEN, 2008-2012 287 Table 11.1 Journalists Killed in Ukraine, 1995-2010 294 Table 11.2 Examples of Save Old Kyiv Hot Button Issues 302 A Note about Transliteration The transliteration of the Ukrainian language to the Roman alphabet follows the Ukrainian national system that was codified in 1996.
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