(OTELS 2ESTAURANTS #AFÅS .IGHTLIFE 3IGHTSEEING %VENTS -APS +9)6 7INTER 7INTERIN+YIV Explore some of our favourite winter places in the city. )NSIDE Updated, comprehensive guide to everything Kyiv has to offer. N°55 www.inyourpocket.com 2 FOREWORD Following the government’s decision on 21 November, 2013 to stop European Union integration by rejecting an association agreement, a series of mass protests has swept across Ukraine. 2,000 protesters gathered at Maidan Nezalezhnosti and began to organize themselves. A larger rally took place on 24 November, when 100,000 to 200,000 people gathered on Maidan. The pro-EU demonstrators carrying Ukrainian and EU flags chanted “Ukraine is Europe” and sang the national anthem as they marched toward European Square for the rally. On the night of 30 November 2013 at 4a.m. around 300 students and other protesters who remained were brutally attacked by the Berkut - a special police unit - who were armed with batons, stun gre- nades, and tear gas. They dispersed all protesters from Maidan Nezalezhnosti while suppressing mobile phone communications. By 1p.m.another meeting was gathering, with tens of thousands of Kyiv residents coming out to protest against the violence. On 1 December, about 200,000 came to Independence Square (Maidan Nezalezhnosti) to demonstrate for their rights and freedom. Since then, there have been daily demonstra- tions with the protesters committed to continue as long as needed, until their demands are fulfilled. Many foreigners have been drawn to Kyiv’s pro-European rallies in admiration for the spirited people power that has been on display and capturing world headlines. Most came to witness what many are calling EuroMaidan – in reference to the first demonstration. As this guide goes to print, the protests are still continuing. The Ukrainian people have spoken – they want a change for the better; a message understood and supported all over the world. Now they are looking forward with the hope for better results and actions by both confronting sides. Winter holidays will be long this year, and most of organisa- tions will be closed from 1-8 January, as most Ukrainians will “Happy holidays!” celebrate first New Year’s Eve, then Christmas on 7 January, This postcard was created by Illia Strongovsky, celebrating the date designated by the Ukrainian Orthodox calendar. this year’s Christmas tree on Maidan Nezalezhnosti. Thousands are expected to join the traditional outdoor party Officially, the police attack against peaceful demonstrators on Maidan Nezalezhnosti, which should be especially unforget- in the early hours of 30 November started because table this year if the protests continue. they were told to clear the square to make room for the The In Your Pocket team would like to wish you Z Novym Christmas tree. Rokom (Happy New Year) and Z Rizdvom (Merry Christmas)! All pictures on the right side are taken from open sources.. Europe In Your Pocket It’s now nearly 22 years since we Northern published the first In Your Pocket Ireland Estonia guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in Ireland Latvia Russia which time we have grown to become Lithuania the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. Belarus We now cover more than 75 cities Netherlands Poland across the continent, and we will Germany Ukraine be expanding even further in 2014 Belgium Czech with the publication of a guide to Republic Johannesburg in South Africa: our Austria first guide outside Europe. What‘s Switzerland Slovenia Romania Georgia more, early in 2014 our already Croatia terrific guides will be getting a fresh Italy Bosnia Serbia new look, designed to offer our Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo readers a better experience. The FYR Macedonia roll-out of this new look begins in Albania Greece February. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com FOREWORD 3 A new look for In Your Pocket Never a publisher to rest on our laurels, we have spent the past few months hunkered down in frenzied acti- vity readying a brand new look for In Your Pocket. Yes, courtesy of a crack team of top designers, your favourite city guides Rejecting an association agreement with the EU caused have had a bit of a huge protests around Ukraine makeover; we will be rolling out the new design during the first part of 2014. Many of the changes we have made are a result of the many comments we have had from readers over the past couple of years, sharing their thoughts with us about how the guides can be improved. As such, the new look is a welcome change that brings renewed modernity, freshness and vivacity to our award-winning publications. Look out for the new- -look In Your Pocket soon. Publisher Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Protesters flock to Maidan Nezalezhnosti. Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080, Ukraine tel. (+380) 44 467 78 20 / (+380) 67 977 44 16 [email protected] Registration No. KB 7467 Printed by Aiva Plus, Kyiv Published 4 times per year, 60,000 copies annually Editorial Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova Research Marina Marchenko Layout & Design Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. Photos Kyiv In Your Pocket Cover photo flickr.com, CCL. Sales & Circulation A view of Maidan from the surrounding hills. General Manager Andrii Cherniavskyi Sales & Circulation Kyiv: Natasha Martisova, +380 67 977 44 16 Lviv: Julia Kaniuka, +380 67 672 44 97 Odesa: Liubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57 Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS Ltd 2003- 2014. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Maps People on EuroMaidan restraining an attack from the police © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2014 on December 11. © Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2014 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Winter 2013 - 2014 4 CONTENTS ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Sightseeing Essential Kyiv 35 Contents Museums 36 Jewish sights 39 Arriving & Transport 5 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 41 Arriving in Kyiv, getting to the city, car rental Leisure 45 and public transport Winter activities in the city 8 Basics Shopping 43 Some useful information Shopping mals, fashion and food Culture & Events 11 Lifestyle directory 44 Culture celebrations & Sport events Useful directory for staying in Kyiv Where to stay 15 Business directory 46 A fine selection of places to spend the night Banks, accountants and lawyers Restaurants 23 Kyiv dining scene Maps & Index Index 48 Cafés 32 Street register 47 Nightlife 33 City centre map 49 Bars, Pubs & Clubs City map 50 One of the most beautiful buildings on the Kyiv hills - the State Academy Doll Theatre. It is located right above European Square and features plays for children from famous fairy tales. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 5 By bus By train Meanwhile the new Central Bus Station is under construction The refurbished Central Railway Station (центральний вокзал) next to the newest Teremki metro station, most of interna- has now been joined by a futuristic-looking Southern Railway tional buses arrive at old Kyiv’s Central Bus Station (tsentralnyi Station (південний вокзал), with the platforms located between avtovokzal). The old station sits like a hideous centrepiece on the two. A new waiting lounge up the stairs to the left from Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovs’ka ploscha. A currency the central main hall boasts comfy couches for a 10Hr admis- exchange office (обмін валют) is next to the main exit, and sion fee. Currency exchange (обмін валют) points and ATMs just outside is an ATM (банкомат) that dispenses Ukrainian (банкомат) are in the main halls of each station. Coin-operated hryvnia. If you need to stash your bags, a left-luggage office is pay telephones are scattered throughout the building, while available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00). card-operated ones are mostly outside the central entrance. Getting to town Taxis are always on hand and can take you to Getting to town You’re basically in it already, but short taxi the city centre for approximately 50Hr. Demiivska metro station rides to Khreschatyk Street area cost 50Hr and up. The (blue line) is right near the bus station. Just go round McDonalds’ entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (red line) is to your left building, pass a subway and find the metro entrance to your right. as you exit the central station - look for the green letter M. Central Bus Station H-5, Nauky prosp. 1/2, Demi- Khreschatyk is only three stops east on the red line. Various ivska, tel. (+380) 44 527 99 86. =Open 05:00 - 24:00. trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart from the central station. Those with light bags and fresh legs can head down the main road and turn right at Shevchenko Boulevard , which By plane runs into Khreschatyk. Boryspil State International Airport ŠƅƐƎƏƎƐƒšƎƐƈƑƏLƋƜ Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl. is where most international flights depart and land. The arrival 1, Vokzalna, tel. (+380) 44 503 70 05, www.uz.gov. hall of its largest and newest Terminal D is located on the ground ua/en. =Open 24Hrs. floor. At the exit from the gates, there is an information point, public telephones, Avis Car Rental and the Meeting Point cafe. Currency exchange windows with competitive rates are to the left Car rental of the gates, first aid is to the right.