Munich Personal RePEc Archive The anti-red shift – to the ’Dark Side’: Colour changes in Flemish luxury woollens, 1300 - 1550 Munro, John H. Department of Economics, University of Toronto June 2006 Online at https://mpra.ub.uni-muenchen.de/10876/ MPRA Paper No. 10876, posted 03 Oct 2008 01:09 UTC Medieval Clothing and Textiles Volume 3 Medieval Clothing and Textiles ISSN 1744–5787 General Editors Robin Netherton St. Louis, Missouri, USA Gale R. Owen-Crocker University of Manchester, England Editorial Board Miranda Howard Western Michigan University, USA John Hines Cardiff University, Wales Kay Lacey Swindon, England John H. Munro University of Toronto, Ontario, Canada M. A. Nordtorp-Madson University of St. Thomas, Minnesota, USA Frances Pritchard Whitworth Art Gallery, Manchester, England Monica L. Wright Middle Tennessee State University, USA Medieval Clothing and Textiles Volume 3 edited by ROBIN NETHERTON GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER THE BOYDELL PRESS © Contributors 2007 All Rights Reserved. Except as permitted under current legislation no part of this work may be photocopied, stored in a retrieval system, published, performed in public, adapted, broadcast, transmitted, recorded or reproduced in any form or by any means, without the prior permission of the copyright owner First published 2007 The Boydell Press, Woodbridge ISBN 1 84383 291 7 ISBN 978 1 84383 291 1 The Boydell Press is an imprint of Boydell & Brewer Ltd PO Box 9, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 3DF, UK and of Boydell & Brewer Inc. 668 Mt Hope Avenue, Rochester, NY 14620, USA website: www.boydellandbrewer.com A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library This publication is printed on acid-free paper Typeset by Frances Hackeson Freelance Publishing Services, Brinscall, Lancs Printed in Great Britain by Cromwell Press, Trowbridge, Wiltshire Contents Illustrations page vii Tables ix Contributors xi Preface xiii 1 Cushioning Medieval Life: Domestic Textiles in Anglo-Saxon 1 England Elizabeth Coatsworth 2 A Matter of Style: Clerical Vestments in the Anglo-Saxon Church 13 Sarah Larratt Keefer 3 Saints in Split Stitch: Representations of Saints in Opus Anglicanum 41 Vestments Susan Leibacher Ward 4 The Anti-Red Shift—To the Dark Side: Colour Changes in 55 Flemish Luxury Woollens, 1300–1550 John H. Munro 5 The Finishing of English Woollens, 1300–1550 97 John Oldland 6 Poverty and Richly Decorated Garments: A Re-Evaluation of Their 119 Significance in the Vita Christi of Isabel de Villena Lesley K. Twomey 7 “Set on Yowre Hondys”: Fifteenth-Century Instructions for 135 Fingerloop Braiding Elizabeth Benns 8 Tiny Textiles Hidden In Books: Toward a Categorization of 145 Multiple-Strand Bookmarkers Lois Swales and Heather Blatt 9 “She Hath Over Grown All that Ever She Hath”: Children’s 181 Clothing in the Lisle Letters, 1533–40 Melanie Schuessler Recent Books of Interest 201 Contents of Previous Volumes 209 Index 211 Illustrations Anglo-Saxon Church Vestments Fig. 2.1 Basic clerical undergarments page 15 Fig. 2.2 The dalmatica for deacons or bishops 15 Fig. 2.3 The planeta or casula for priests 15 Fig. 2.4 Archiepiscopal regalia for celebrating Mass 15 Fig. 2.5 The orarium or stola, as worn by deacons, priests, and 18 bishops Fig. 2.6 St. Cuthbert, from Cambridge, Corpus Christi College, 32 MS 183 Fig. 2.7 Two bishops, from London, British Library, MS Cotton 34 Tiberius A iii Fig. 2.8 Episcopal party, from Rouen, Bibliothèque Municipale, 35 MS 368 Fig. 2.9 St. Swithun, from London, British Library, MS Additional 36 49598 Fig. 2.10 Bishop, from London, British Library, MS Additional 49598 36 Fig. 2.11 Confessors, from London, British Library, MS Additional 49598 37 Saints in Opus Anglicanum Fig. 3.1 Split stitch 43 Fig. 3.2 Couching 43 Fig. 3.3 Underside couching 43 Fig. 3.4 The Chichester-Constable chasuble 45 Fig. 3.5 The Clare chasuble 47 Fig. 3.6 The Montiéramey cope 49 Fig. 3.7 The Pienza cope 50 Colour Changes in Flemish Woollens Fig. 4.1 Colours of woollens purchased by Bruges officials, 1301–10 75 to 1491–96 Garments in Villena’s Vita Christi Fig. 6.1 Virgin with Child Jesus at the Breast, by Bartolomé Bermejo 127 Fig. 6.2 Dormition of the Virgin, by Joan Reixach 129 Fingerloop Braiding Fig. 7.1 “Grene dorge” lace, as made by one person 139 Fig. 7.2 “Grene dorge” lace, as made by two people 139 Fig. 7.3 “Lace dawns” pattern 140 Fig. 7.4 “Lace piol” pattern 140 Fig. 7.5 “Lace bend round” pattern 144 Multiple-Strand Bookmarkers Fig. 8.1 Two types of multiple-strand bookmarkers 146 Fig. 8.2 Parts of a multiple-strand bookmarker 156 Fig. 8.3 Knob bookmarker found in a Gospel Book, c. 1480 166 Germany Fig. 8.4 Closeup of knob anchor 166 Fig. 8.5 Diagrams of needlewrought thread coverings on knob 166 anchor Fig. 8.6 Pillow-style bookmarker in a Parisian Book of Hours, c. 1410 169 Fig. 8.7 Bar bookmarkers found in two German antiphonals, dated 177 1430 Fig. 8.8 Closeup of bar anchor 177 Children’s Clothing in the Lisle Letters Fig. 9.1 A family scene of the 1520s, from a Flemish Book of Hours 184 Tables Anglo-Saxon Domestic Textiles Table 1.1 Terms for domestic textiles in six Anglo-Saxon wills page 9 Anglo-Saxon Church Vestments Table 2.1 Vestments in the ordinations of the major orders in 20 the Ordines Romani Table 2.2 Diaconal and sacerdotal ordinations in pontificals 22 from Anglo-Saxon England Table 2.3 Vestment references in diaconal ordination prayers 24 and rubrics Table 2.4 Vestment references in sacerdotal ordination prayers 25 and rubrics Table 2.5 Images of vested clergy in Anglo-Saxon manuscripts 31 Colour Changes in Flemish Woollens Table 4.1 Luxury woollen broadcloths at Mechelen, by colour 58 and value, 1471–1550 Table 4.2 Costs of dyeing scarlets at Mechelen, 1361–1415 64 Table 4.3 Luxury woollen broadcloths at Bruges, by colour and 68 value, 1301–1496 Table 4.4 Luxury woollen broadcloths at Bruges, by colour 74 category, 1301–1496 Table 4.5 Prices of woollens at Bruges in relation to other 82 products and wages, 1341–1496 Fingerloop Braiding Table 7.1 An example of braiding instructions from Harley 144 2320 Multiple-Strand Bookmarkers Table 8.1 Extant multiple-strand textile bookmarkers 148 Table 8.2 Anchor types 158 Table 8.3 Strand types and attachment methods 159 Table 8.4 Examples of artworks showing multiple-strand book- 171 markers, by artist Table 8.5 Technical examination of four multiple-strand book- 176 markers Children’s Clothing in the Lisle Letters Table 9.1 Clothing items for Mary Basset, bill of March 8, 192 1536 Table 9.2 Clothing items for James Basset, bill of December 19, 194 1536 Table 9.3 Clothing items for James Basset, bill of August/September 196 1538 Contributors ROBIN NETHERTON (Editor) is a costume historian specializing in Western European clothing of the twelfth through fifteenth centuries. Since 1982, she has given lectures and workshops on practical aspects of medieval costume and on costume as an approach to social history, art history, and literature. A journalist by training, she also works as a professional editor. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER (Editor) is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester and Deputy Director of the Manchester Centre for Anglo- Saxon Studies. Her most recent books are King Harold II and the Bayeux Tapestry (2005), Dress in Anglo-Saxon England: Revised and Enlarged Edition (2004), and The Four Funerals in Beowulf (2000). ELIZABETH BENNS is a London-based textile historian specialising in medieval and early modern narrow wares and the women who made them. She has presented papers and published work on various aspects of this research, as well as re-creating items for theatres and private individuals. Her current research focuses on narrow wares in the wardrobe accounts for late medieval coronations. HEATHER BLATT is a Ph.D. candidate in medieval English literature at Fordham University, with a speciality in book history initially developed while completing her M.A. in English at the University of Virgina. In addition to continuing research on bookmarks, she is also working on a project involving early modern cheese trenchers. ELIZABETH COATSWORTH is Senior Lecturer at MIRIAD (Manchester Institute for Research and Innovation in Art and Design) at the Manchester Metropolitan University and co-author (with Michael Pinder) of The Art of the Anglo-Saxon Goldsmith (2002). She is now completing a catalogue of the pre-Conquest sculpture of the West Riding of Yorkshire for the Corpus of Anglo-Saxon Stone Sculpture. SARAH LARRATT KEEFER is Professor of English at Trent University in Ontario, specializing in the liturgy of the Anglo-Saxon Church. She is currently completing an edition of Old English liturgical poetry for Broadview Press and co-editing London, British Library Additional MS 57337 (the Anderson Pontifical) for the Henry Bradshaw Society. JOHN H. MUNRO, Professor Emeritus of Economics at the University of Toronto, has devoted his academic career to research in and the teaching of European economic history. His research has focused on the textile industries in the later medieval and early modern Low Countries and England, as well as money, prices, and wages in later medieval Europe. Among his many publications are two chapters on medieval woollens in the Cambridge History of Western Textiles (2003). JOHN OLDLAND is Professor Emeritus at Bishop’s University, Lennoxville, Quebec. He is currently publishing and preparing articles on the merchant class of early Tudor London, the London clothworkers in the late fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, and the decline of clothmaking in fifteenth-century English towns.