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The History of Fashion in France; :J**T i-HOl RARE BOOK COLLECTION fM THE LIBRARIES The University of Georgia ~i?<j>tf . - THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. P- „,-.</<'•', I THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR, THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME. FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUST] X CH.\LL.\MEI. EY MRS. CASHEL HOEY AND MR. JOHN LILLIE. jgclu |9orh : S C R T J5 V £ K A N LJ V V, L V • ) 1< U 1882. w\&r T2SO CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets—Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies— Paris the temple of fashion—The provinces—Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown—The causes of fashion—A saying of Mme. de Girardin's—A remark of Mrs. Trollope's— The dress of actresses—Earliest theories of fashion—The Gynseceum of Amman— First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes"—Lamesangere— Other publications—An anecdote concerning dolls—Plan of the History of t"sJ,oriBOK Fashion in France ............ PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN©S SQUARE. CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors" and "Palla" —Cleanliness of the Gallic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles ; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The'' stola "—Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women— Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crystal ball—Influence of the barbarians CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter— The Merovingians—Costumes of skins and felt; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the " guimpe," the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers—Various articles of dress—The "suint"—Young girls dress their hair without ornaments—St. Radegonde—The hair of married women . CHAPTER III. THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD. Reign of Charlemagne—The women of the tenth century wear two tunics—Judith's belt—A veil is obligatory—Miniatures in the Mazarin Library— Charles the Bald's Bible—Shoes—Dress of Queen Lutgarde—Dress of Rotrude and Bertha—Gisla and other kinswomen of the Emperor—The successors of Charlemagne—Cannes— Adelaide of Vermandois—The dress of widows .... a I I I CONTENTS. CONTENTS. Vll CHAPTER IV. CHAPTER IX. THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD. REIGN OF FRANCIS I. PAGE Earliest times of the Carlovingian period—Variety of costume in the provinces— The court of Francis I.—A speech of Charles V.—The king's liberality—Order of the Fashions in the Duchy of France—French taste dating from the eleventh century Cordeliere—Word-paintings of the fashions of the day, by Rabelais—Costumes of —Luxury increases with each generation—The dominical—The "bliaud "—Canes the seasons—Feather-fans—Sunshades—The "hoche-plis" or vertugadin—Mme. of apple-wood—Women in the twelfth century—Head-dresses—"Afiche"— de Tressan saves her cousin's life—Satires and songs—Mdlle. de Lacepede— Serpent-tails—Pelisses—The thirteenth century—"Greves" and veils are in " Contenances "—Silk shoes with slashes—Head-dress called a "passe-filon' — fashion—The " couvre-chef" in the fourteenth century—The skirt, or " cotte- Increase of love of dress—The bean-flower—Artistic head-dresses—Twists of hair hardie," surcoat, or overall, or overskirt, cape, trained skirt, and " gauzape"— called ratraprenades—Ferronieres—Coaches in Paris ; their influence on the Accessories—Emblazoned gowns—Various kinds of stuffs ..... fashions . > . ......... 7* CHAPTER X. CHAPTER V. REIGN OF HENRI II. THE INFLUENCE OF THE CRUSADES. Fashions under Henri II.—The ruff—A satirical print of the time—Catherine de Severity of feminine costume—Long gowns and guimpes—Marguerite of Provence— Medicis eats soup—The Italian taste—Regulations for dress—Crimson—Who "Fermaux"—Reappearance of splendour in dress—Eastern customs—The priests shall wear silk?—Lines on velvet, by Ronsard—Rotonde—"Collet monte"— of fashion—Haberdashery and peacock-feathers—Female embroiderers—Taste for Spring-water—Style of gowns and head-dresses—Wired sleeves—Girdles - Caps, embroidery—Continual temptations—Earliest sumptuary laws—Furs—St. Louis's bonnets, and hoods—The "touret de nez"—The "coffin a roupies"—Shoes— opinion on dress —Prohibitions by Philippe le Bel; speech made by his wife— A quotation from Rabelais . ..... ..... 8l Crepine .............. 39 CHAPTER XI. CHAPTER VI. REIGN OF FRANCIS II. REIGNS OF JOHN AND OF CHARLES V. The earliest queens of fashion—Mary Stuart's costumes ; her jewels—Description of bodices and sleeves of that period—Crosses—The "loup" or small mask— The States of Languedoc—A young French lady in the fourteenth and fifteenth Coiffure "en raquette"—An anecdote concerning high heels—Regulations re centuries—Low dresses—Saying of a mercer—Damoiselles—Garnaches and garde - specting fashion—Remark of a lady of our own day on distinctions in Jress— corps—Le Parement des dames—Social distinctions—High character is worth more Exordium of the Edict of July 12, 1549—Maximum of marriage portions—The than gilded belt—Precious stones—The castles and other dwellings of the Middle first knitted silk stockings ......... 89 Ages—Splendid furniture—Humble abodes of the poor—Evening assemblies . 45 CHAPTER XII.. CHAPTER VII. REIGN OF CHARLES IX. REIGNS OF CHARLES VI. AND CHARLES VII. The wars of religion—The fashions of Italy are brought across the Alps, and are welcomed in France—Effects of the expeditions into Italy—Articles from Venice Taste in dress becomes purer—Heart-shaped head-coverings, the "cornette," and the and Genoa are very fashionable—A cloud of sugar-plums, and a shower of scents— "hennin " in the reign of Charles VI.—Husbands complain—Preachers denounce Effeminate style of dress—Charles IX. and his Edicts against extravagant display —Thomas Connecte declaims against the diabolic invention—Brother Richard —Fashion rebels against sumptuary laws—Women of high rank, bourgeoises, tries to reform it—The "hennin" gains the victory—Costume of Jeanne de widows, and spinsters—Wedding dresses—Observations of a Venetian ambassador Bourbon—"Escoffion"—An absurd figure—Gravouere — Isabeau de Baviere— —" Corps pique"—Drawers—Paint—Cosmetics—Breast mirrors, girdle mirrors— Gorgiasetes—Tripes—Splendour of the court—Agnes Sorel—"Coiffe adournee ;" Court dresses—" Arcelets "........... 95 diamonds ; the carcan—Walking-sticks ........ CHAPTER XIII. CHAPTER VIII. REIGN OF HENRI III. Opposition to the laws of King Henri III. on dress—The wife of President N——. REIGNS OF LOUIS XI., CHARLES VIII., AND LOUIS XII. —How both sexes evaded the edicts—Gowns from Milan—Mixture of masculine Duchesses and bourgeoises under Louis XI.—"La grand'gorre," or sumptuosity— and feminine fashions—Rage for perfumes—Recognition of rank is demanded— The "troussoire"—Allegorical and moral costumes—Trains—Head-dresses— Costumes worn at Cognac by Marguerite de Valois in presence of the Polish "Collets rebrasses"—Wigs and false hair—Some results of the war in Italy— ambassadors, and her costume at Blois—Brantome's opinion—Pointed bodices, Italian fashions—" Sollerets " and slippers—Gorgets—Garters—JeanMarot writes CN puffed-out sleeves, and "bourrelets"—Remarks on hair—Ridiculous dress of against novelties—Anne of Brittany—Pins—Menot " the golden-tongued "—A men—Poucet, the preacher—Satirical lines on Joyeuse—Witty remark of Pierre Parisian in the time of Louis XIL—Coat a 1'Italienne—Manufacture of stuffs . 61 de 1'Estoile—Starch used by Henri III.—Cushions ..... 103 a 2 ( I I Vlll CONTENTS. CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. worn low—The queen's " puce "-coloured gown ; shades of colour in dresses— Oberkampf and the Jouy prints—Expensive satins—Trimmings, their great number REIGNS OF HENRI IV. AND LOUIS XIII. PAGE and importance—Gauze, blond, tulle, and ribbons—Some kinds of shoes—Venez- Universal mourning on the death of the Guises ; intolerance of showy dress— y.voir_The " Archduchess " ribbons—A dress worn at the opera . 161 Vertugadins, "espoitrement," "corps espagnole"—Diversity of colours—The pearls, jewels, and diamonds belonging to Gabrielle d'Estrees and to the queen— Dress of Marguerite de France—Low-cut bodices—Head-dresses of hair—Various CHAPTER XIX. styles—Venetian slippers—Edicts of Louis XII.—Caricatures : " Pompe funebre REIGN OF LOUIS XVI. (CONTINUED). de la Mode "—Woids and fashions—Ribbons or " galants "—Dress of widows— "Demi-ceint" girdles—Gloves of all sorts—Patches—Masks; their use—" Caclie- Peasant dress is universal—Fashion "a la Marlborough"—Caps—Bonnets—Mdlles. laid"—The Frondeuses—Mme. de Longueville . 113 Fredinand Quentin—Ruches—Low bodices ; "postiches"—Costume of Contat- Suzanne—Fashions " a la Figaro "—Literature and politics signified in dress; the CHAPTER XV. Princess de Monaco's pouf—Pouf " a la circonstance ;" the " inoculation " pouf— The " innocence made manifest" caraco—The "harpy " costume—Coats, cravats, REIGN OF LOUIS XIV. and waistcoats—Sailor jackets and " pierrots "—Deshabilles; " the lying fichu "— Etiquette in dress—Seasonable costumes—The queen's card-table—State of trade Louis XIV. commands—Court luxury and pleasure; disguises—The Temple jewellery in Paris, circa 1 787—" Pinceauteuses," or female colourers ... 171 —Fashion and etiquette—Successive fashions—Royal edicts—The " Tombeau du sens commun"—Dress of La Valliere—Of Mme. de Montespan—Costume of a lady of rank in 1668—The "echelles de Mme. de la Reynie"—"Transparencies" CHAPTER XX. —Manufactures—Champagne, the hair-dresser—Female hair-dressers—" Hurlu- berlus" and Mme. de Sevigne—Moustaches for women; patches—Palatines— THE FRENCH REPUBLIC. Slippers ; high heels—Corsetb; fans ; sweet lemons—Dog-muffs—Hair dressed The year 1789—Masculine style of dress—The double dress vanishes—Caps " a la "a la Fontanges"—English style of dressing hair—"Esther"—Steinkerks— grande pretresse," " a la pierrot," and "alalaitiere—The " pouf " bonnet - Paint "Crcmonas"—" Amadis" and Jansenist sleeves — Hair dressed "a reffrontee"— and powder disappear—Prediction by the Cabinet des Modes—Anonymous caps— Dresses of the Duchesse de Bourgogne—Mignardises .....
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