The Hajj and the Hindi: the Ascent of the Indian Sufi Lodge in the Ottoman

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The Hajj and the Hindi: the Ascent of the Indian Sufi Lodge in the Ottoman Modern Asian Studies 50, 6 (2016) pp. 1888–1931. C Cambridge University Press 2016 doi:10.1017/S0026749X15000530 First published online 1 July 2016 The Hajj and the Hindi: The ascent of the Indian Sufi lodge in the Ottoman empire∗ RISHAD CHOUDHURY The Academy for International and Area Studies, Harvard University, United States of America Email: [email protected] Abstract This article charts several historical paths, hitherto underexplored, through the Hindi or ‘Indian’ Sufi lodges of the Ottoman empire. Focusing on the ‘long eighteenth century (circa 1695–1808)’, it tracks their remarkable ascendance as an institutional network for mobile and migrant Indian Sufi pilgrims. From Istanbul to the provinces, the article demonstrates how Naqshbandis and Qadiris on the Hajj circuit drew on local channels of social communications, legal petitioning strategies, and state and inter-state linkages to forge unique identities as ‘trans-imperial subjects’ in an age of decentralization in the Ottoman world. I argue that central to their social success was the creation of new corporate regimes of itinerant piety. But first, I place the little-known lodges at the heart of a specific shift in early modern attitudes to identity, as the story behind ‘Hindi’ beckons wider inquiry into emergent differences among Sufi pilgrims in the Ottoman empire. ∗ For valuable comments on early drafts, I am grateful to Suraiya Faroqhi, Durba Ghosh, Eric Tagliacozzo, and Robert Travers. I am thankful, as well, to Nida Nebahat Nalçacı for eye-opening trips to Istanbul’s Sufi lodges, old and new. Previous iterations of these arguments were presented at Cornell University, the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, Princeton University, and the Social Science Research Council. I am indebted to participants at each venue, and in particular to the referees of this journal, for suggestions that greatly improved the manuscript. Research for this article was made possible by the Cornell University Graduate School and the Social Science Research Council International Dissertation Research Fellowship. The writing was in part supported by the Brett de Bary/Mellon Interdisciplinary Writing Group Grant from the Society for the Humanities at Cornell University and the Sydney N. Fisher Prize from the Ottoman and Turkish Studies Association. All errors are mine alone. 1888 THE HAJJ AND THE HINDI 1889 Introduction ‘Every line was in pure Persian, but a change in the diacritics made them Arabic. If those words were altered they turned Turkish. And when written again, they became Hindi.’ Shahnawaz Khan, Ma’¯asir al-Umar¯a Sometime between 1741 and 1747 in the Deccan state of Hyderabad, a retired Indian nobleman penned a brief biographical portrait of a Sufi at the Mughal emperor Akbar’s sixteenth-century court.1 The Sufi in question was ‘Abdul ‘Azim, later to be distinguished as Sultan Khwaja Naqshbandi. The descendant of a long line of Naqshbandis from Samarqand, ‘Abdul ‘Azim later became the imperial Am¯ır H¯aj or Commander of the Pilgrimage in the middle decades of Akbar’s reign. Entrusted with funds and the oversight of Hajjis from India, he was also sent to the Hijaz to bring back first-hand information on the renouncing Sufi mystics (tajarrud-manish¯an) in that part of the world.2 Yet, ‘Abdul ‘Azim’s eighteenth-century biographer Shahnawaz Khan clearly wanted to place this historical figure in further context. He thus continued in his writing to provide some comments on the broader cultural ambience of the epoch. To give an idea of the famously eclectic religious ideology of the Akbari regime, he wrote of local and trans- local influences, of Brahmans, Jews, Nazarenes, Sunnis, and Shi‘as at the Mughal court. He also wrote of how Akbar had once summoned from Iran the head of the Zoroastrian community there. But, we are told, the latter declined the invitation. All the same, in his place he sent a book to Hindustan, one whose fabulous contents are described in the epigraph.3 Both the ‘fictional’ account of this codex—and the more ‘factual’ story within which it was embedded—throw into sharp relief an early modern world of Indo-Islamic piety in motion. They gesture to an Islamic religious ecumene spanning India, Central Asia, Iran, and the Ottoman empire, and to the exceptional place of the Hajj and itinerant Sufi pilgrims in bringing it all together. They speak too of how even in the late Mughal period, Indian men of letters could imagine 1 See also in this regard, Muzaffar Alam, ‘The Mughals, the Sufi Shaikhs and the Formation of the Akbari Dispensation’, Modern Asian Studies vol. 43:1 (2009), pp. 135–174. 2 Nawab Samsam-ud-Daula Shahnawaz Khan, Ma’¯asir al-Umar¯a, vol. 2, ‘Abdur Rahim and Mirza Ashraf ‘Ali (eds), Asiatic Society of Bengal, Calcutta, 1890, p. 380. 3 Ibid., pp. 385–386. 1890 RISHAD CHOUDHURY and occupy a larger Perso-Turkic space of learning and conversation which, though diverse, could nevertheless be ‘translated’ to fit local patterns of thought. This article picks up some of the historical threads and themes underscored by Shahnawaz Khan. In doing so, it draws attention to a little-known but sprawling network of Indian Sufi lodges across the Ottoman empire. Using principally Turkish sources and archives, the article illustrates how Indian Sufis and their pilgrim movements gradually cemented in the early modern Ottoman world an important but historically overlooked institutional assemblage. Variously referred to by Ottoman Turks as ‘Hindi’ or ‘Hindu’— that is to say ‘Indian’—tekkes, these Sufi lodges were fundamental in functioning as waystations and as centres of hospitality for pilgrims who embarked on the long road to the Hijaz.4 But though their histories reached back to the beginnings of the early modern era, I argue that their significance as hubs for the communal activities of Indian Sufis only began to gather significant social force and acceleration over a ‘long’ and ‘eventful’ eighteenth century (circa 1695–1808).5 Past scholarship on the Ottoman empire and Mughal India alike has demonstrated how political decentralization in this period led to the parallel formation of new elite and middling groups. As the centralist hegemony of these empires ebbed, new fiscal practices and methods of rent extraction led power to coalesce at the local and provincial levels.6 4 Broadly construed, Sufi tekkes were places of worship and religious ceremony for adherents of particular orders of ‘mystical’ Islam (tasawwuf/Tr. tasavvuf). Most commonly referred to as tekkes in Turkish (Ar./Per. takiya), in different contexts and circumstances they are also dubbed zaviyes (Ar./Per. z¯awiya), hangahs(Per.kh¯anq¯ah), kalendarhanes(Per.qalandarkh¯ana), and dergahs(Per.darg¯ah). They are also called ‘hospices’ or ‘convents’ in English. As a rule I use tekke in this article, but invoke its other names in deference to the sources cited. Historically, Sufi lodges were found all over the Islamic world. Their functions extended beyond acting as spaces for ritual performance, however. They operated as waystations for travellers and pilgrims, as centres of pedagogical training and commercial brokerage, and, more controversially and infrequently, as sites of secular authority. For a discussion, see the classic work by J. Spencer Trimingham, The Sufi Orders in Islam, Oxford University Press, London, 1971, pp. 5–30; cf. Nathalie Clayer, ‘Tekke’, Encyclopaedia of Islam, second edition, Brill Online, 2012; and for recent insights from Ottoman history, Raymond Lifchez (ed.), The Dervish Lodge: Architecture, Art, and Sufism in Ottoman Turkey, University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, 1992. 5 Karen Barkey, Empire of Difference: The Ottomans in Comparative Perspective, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 2003. 6 Ariel Salzmann, ‘An Ancién Regime Revisited: “Privatization” and Political Economy in the Eighteenth-Century Ottoman Empire’, Politics & Society vol. 21:4 (1993), pp. 393–423; Norman Itzkowitz, ‘Eighteenth Century Ottoman Realities’, THE HAJJ AND THE HINDI 1891 Meanwhile, new forms of sociability mushroomed in multiple sites and locations—including in coffee houses, elite households, bazaars, myriad channels of oral and written communications, and, indeed, in Sufi lodges.7 In a sense the aim of this article is to conjugate these two previously discrete terrains of historical inquiry, and to further evaluate the ‘global thrust’ that led South Asians to engage in trans-imperial webs spanning India and the wider Muslim world.8 My contribution to the literature therefore makes a case for viewing the Indian Sufi lodges of the Ottoman empire as spaces of patron-client sociability, but also as institutions that gave corporate meanings and values to the practices of itinerant pilgrim piety. This article thus reflects on the careers of the Indian Sufi lodges through a period of rapid political transition in the late Ottoman empire. It achieves this through two overlapping, if distinct, interventions. It shows, first and foremost, the significance of the tekkes in mediating exchanges between South Asia and the Ottoman domains, and how these links transformed with emergent pilgrimage and state connections over the course of the eighteenth century. Second, it argues that the mobile and migrant Indian Sufis utilized local intellectual, legal, and fiscal regimes to root both their pious practices and themselves in substantive ways in the Ottoman empire. At the most general level, then, what follows also concerns the logistical demands of Sufi pilgrim movements on the wider circuits of the Hajj. I offer a closer look at the humdrum but essential activities and politics of having to feed, lodge, set in transit, and, in the case of death, bury Indian Sufi pilgrims in the early modern Ottoman world. But I also ask: precisely how were these Sufi networks of Studia Islamica vol. 16 (1962), pp. 73–94; Barkey, Empire of Difference, pp. 270 et seq.; Muzaffar Alam, The Crisis of Empire in Mughal North India: Awadh and the Punjab, 1707– 48, Oxford University Press, New Delhi, 1986, pp.
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