CHAPTER 63 (1912—Continued)

CHAPTER 63 (1912—continued)

Homeward Bound—From Denmark to Stockholm, Sweden—Visit Finland En Route—Travel by Rail through European Russia and Siberia to Vladivostok—Brief Sojourn in Japan—In Crossing the Pacific We Call at Hawaii—From California to Utah. In the evening of Wednesday, May 15, 1912, the little steamer “Sverige,” which was taking Elder Peter C. Rasmussen and me away from Copenhagen, sailed for Malmö, Swe- den, where we were met by Elder John J. Cederlund, who conducted us to the conference headquarters at Kornettsgatan No. 9, where a special meeting was in session. This meeting had been appointed and prolonged to give Elder Rasmussen and me an opportunity to speak. We addressed the assembly for about half an hour. Then followed handshaking and expressions of good will. The night was spent at the conference house in Malmö. The following is a day by day account of the travels through Finland, Russia, Manchu- ria, Japan, Hawaii and California to Salt Lake City, Utah, culled from my private journal: Thursday, May 16. Arising early Elder Peter C. Rasmussen and I proceeded to the railroad station in Malmö, Sweden, accompanied by Elders Bengt Johnson, jun., and John J. Cederlund and a few others. We bade adieu to these friends and left Malmö for Stock- holm, where President Andreas Peterson met us at the railway station and took us in an automobile to the mission headquarters in Svartensgatan 3, where we found a meeting in session. I addressed the assembly about twenty minutes, followed by Bro. Rasmussen. At mission headquarters we met Elders Carl A. Carlquist, Geo. C. Mitchell, Sven Svenson, Arthur Nielsen and others. Fri., May 17. I was busy in Stockholm changing Danish money for Russian money and buying a ticket for St. Petersburg. Together with Bro. Rasmussen and Elder Mitchell I visited the new building to be used in July next for the International Olympic, and next spent a few hours at the Royal Library, getting titles of anti-Mormon publications for the Historian’s Office. Sat., May 18. Bro. F. F. Samuelsen arrived in Stockholm from Aarhus to accompany Elder Rasmussen and me to St. Petersburg. I spent most of the day writing letters and postal cards to family and friends. In the evening Elders Rasmussen and Samuelsen and I left Stockholm as first-class passengers on board the Finnish steamer “Döbeln” and sailed out towards the Baltic among the numerous islands known as the Swedish Archipelago. The evening was beautiful, though a little cold, and we enjoyed the voyage immensely. Sun., May 19. When we got on deck we saw nothing but sky and the blue waters of the beautiful Baltic. About 11:00 o’clock a. m. land was visible on our left and about 492 AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF ANDREW JENSON

12:30 p. m. the ship entered the harbor of Hango. Here we stopped 1½ hours, during which time Brothers Rasmussen and Samuelsen and I went on shore, taking a walk in the little railway town containing about 3,000 inhabitants. It was the first time in my life that I stood upon Finland’s soil. Finland at one time belonged to Sweden, but the Russians had taken possession of the country by force, like the Germans in 1864 took Schlesvig away from Denmark; and the right of self or local government which the Finns to some extent had enjoyed under Russian rule was gradually being taken away from them by the Russians. Continuing the voyage from Hango, we soon found ourselves in the bay of Finland, and the steamer stood out eastward till we were opposite Helsingfors, the capital of Fin- land; thence the steamer headed eastward and after passing in between a number of fortified islands, we entered the Helsingfors harbor. Here we landed, hired a carriage and drove around the city for an hour. Helsingfors is a beautiful city containing about 140,000 inhabitants. Mon., May 20. As we arose at 8:00 o’clock a. m. we beheld a beautiful morning in the open sea, we having sailed from Helsingfors at 3:00 o’clock in the night. As we sailed eastward, vessels became more numerous and we passed several islands. At 5:00 o’clock p. m. we passed the city and fortifications of Kronstadt, where numerous Russian battleships were anchored. The strongly fortified islands drew our special attention. The afternoon was warm and pleasant, and the sun shining from a cloudless sky did much towards giving us a cheerful first impression of Russia. There were only a few passengers on board, among them two young Americans. We approached St. Petersburg through a beautiful and unique canal and sailed up the river Neva, anchoring near the Nicolai bridge. We showed our passports and after landing took a “drosky” to Hotel du Nord. Finding the prices there too high for our purse we drove to 51 Newsky Prospective, where we secured rooms more reasonable. Tues., May 21. (Russian time May 8.) We were busy in St. Petersburg, buying tickets for Tokyo, Japan, visiting places of interest such as the renowned Isaac Church, the beautiful church built over the place where Alexander II was killed, and Peter Pauls fortifications. We crossed the river Neva on the Troiski bridge. I also assisted Brother Samuelsen to get his return ticket. Bro. Samuelsen left us in the evening to return to Denmark. Elder Rasmussen and I paid 137 rubles each for our tickets from St. Petersburg to Tokyo, Japan. Wed., May 22. (Russian time May 9.) We arose early, walked to the railroad station, and managed to find the right train and got on board without much trouble. My limited knowledge of German helped me wonderfully during our travels through Russia. We left St. Petersburg at 10:00 a. m. and traveled in a comfortable second-class car to Moscow (610 versts or about 400 miles from St. Petersburg), where we arrived at 8:00 p. m. On the road we entertained ourselves with an Armenian and his young Russian wife, who could talk a little German. On our arrival at Moscow we found no one who could talk English or German, so we hailed a “drosky” driver who took us to the Hotel Metropole, where we at once made satisfactory arrangements for our stay, getting a room on the fourth story of a very large building for 5 rubles a day. While Bro. Rasmussen wrote, I took a long walk out into the city to orient myself in the old historic town of Moscow. Between St. Petersburg and Moscow we saw many small towns where nearly all the houses were small wooden structures and the whole appearance of the country indicated poverty. We also crossed several rivers which nearly everywhere had overflown their banks, and placed many towns more or less under water. Thurs., May 23. (Russian time May 10.) We attended to business for our further transportation and visited the renowned Kremlin. Our visit there became so much more CHAPTER 63 493 interesting by our meeting a polite young lawyer (Alexander Wilenkine) who could talk English. He took pains to explain many things to us about the Kremlin and conditions in Russia. As we met him in the great court building within the walls of the Kremlin, he took us into a large court room where judge and jury entered to render an important deci- sion, and then he took pains to tell us something about Russian jurisprudence which he in some respects thought superior to our American system. After leaving him, we visited the royal palace, the cathedrals, and the grand Alexander II monument. We entered one of the gates where custom compels all men to uncover their heads as they pass through. We of course followed suit. Leaving the Kremlin, we crossed the Moskva River on the bridge immediately above the Kremlin and on the opposite bank we had a most beautiful view of the Kremlin. We recrossed the river on the Moscovretzky bridge. Fri., May 24. (Russian time May 11.) We again visited the Kremlin, and then went by street car out into the suburbs of the city, where we visited the so-called Novo-Dyevichy Monastir (convent or nunnery), a most beautiful place enclosed by high walls. We hap- pened to arrive just in time to attend a funeral and to hear and witness the orthodox Greek Church priests chant and pray, clad in their rather handsome white robes. A chorus of nuns sang and chanted after the priests. The graveyard and church buildings as well as the dwellings containing the cells of the nuns and the houses of the priests were very attractive. On our rambles in Moscow we also visited the “Church of the Redeemer” (Chram Christa Spassitelja), which is one of the most beautiful and costly buildings in the world. Hiring a drosky we went to the Kurski Railway Station, boarded the Siberian train and left Moscow or “Moskva” toward evening. It was most interesting to watch from the car windows the disappearance of Moscow as we were carried away from it; at last, looking back over the immense plain upon which Moscow is situated we could see nothing but the towers of the Kremlin and the domes and spires of the many other churches. We soon crossed the Moskva River, passed through a well cultivated country dotted with towns and villages, crossed the river Oka on a fine bridge and arrived in the city of Tula, a great manufacturing town. From Tula the train took an easterly course through the heart of Russia. As good luck would have it, a Russian who could speak English shared our compartment with us, and was kind enough to post us about the country as we traveled along. Having paid for places to lie down we slept well during the night, though I was unable to hire bed clothes. Bro. Rasmussen had a traveling blanket with him and I covered myself with a couple of overcoats and got along very well. These second-class Russian cars have a passage running through them on one side and the car is divided into six compartments, each of which accommodates four passengers. The back of the seats, which hang on hinges, are turned up at night and thus form upper berths. With only four in a compartment, trav- elers can make themselves quite comfortable, but the passengers must bring their own bed clothes along, except on the tri-weekly express trains running through Siberia; the coaches on these are all sleepers and everything needed for comfort is furnished. It was our inten- tion to have traveled in an express train, which makes the journey to Vladivostok from Moscow in about nine days, but we applied for passage too late, and consequently had to travel by slower trains which take 12 days or more to make the same journey. Sat., May 25. (Russian time May 12.) In the morning we beheld a green, well cultivated country and noticed that spring in this part of Russia was much farther advanced than between St. Petersburg and Moscow. We ate breakfast in Merchansk, where our English-speaking friend left us. Leaving Merchansk we continued the journey eastward, stopped for dinner in Pensa and crossed the great Volga River about 11:00 o’clock p. m. During the day we passed through several cities of considerable size and many very extensive 494 AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF ANDREW JENSON

pine forests. The population in this part of Russia was mainly composed of Tartars of the Mohammedan faith. The day was warm and pleasant. After our English-speaking friend left us, we made the most of a fine young Siberian student who could speak about as much German as I could. We could discover neither Americans, Germans or Englishmen on our long train. This, of course, made the journey less interesting for us. Sun., May 26. (Russian time May 13.) I arose soon after midnight to get a look at the city of Samara as we stopped at the station a few minutes. Early in the day we passed Bou- gourouslan and then traveled through a steppe-like country in a northeasterly direction to the river Belaya, which we crossed just before reaching the city of Oufa. After crossing the Oufa River we commenced ascending toward the Ural Mountains. I watched the scenery until a late hour. The day was cold and stormy. During the day we passed through a number of large and important towns and through an apparent rich country, though sparsely inhabited. We were getting used to Russian methods and Russian food, but could not get accustomed to the language. By some effort I began to read the Russian characters or letters, so that I could use my Russian time table and notice the names of the stations as we passed along. Since we left Merchansk we had been only three in our compartment, but tonight a Tartar slept with us as a fourth man; he could neither speak English nor German, but we talked with him by signs. Mon., May 27. (Russian time May 14.) I arose early to watch the scenery as we were climbing the Ural Mountains; about 4:00 o’clock a. m. we passed Zeatoonst and soon afterwards at the little station of Urzhumka we reached the summit of the Ural Mountains, which for a long distance north and south form the boundary between Europe and Asia. A stone pyramid with the inscription “Europe” on one side and “Asia” on the other stands on the summit about 2,500 feet above sea level. From this summit we noticed a mountain top on our left, where there was a wireless telegraph station from which messages were sent to St. Petersburg, and as far east as Vladivostok. A snow-capped range of mountains was noticed on our right. From the Ural we descended upon the great Siberian plain known as the steppes, where grass was plentiful but trees scarce. The plains seemed to be as endless as the sky above it. The Ural Mountains are mostly timber covered. In passing we saw several mining towns which in some respects were like our American mining towns. About 9:00 o’clock a. m. we arrived at Cheliabinsk, the first town of importance reached in Siberia from the west. The town has at present about 2500 inhabitants and is situated on the river Mias 2058 versts (about 1370 miles) from Moscow, or 2451 versts by shortest route from St. Petersburg. At Cheliabinsk we changed cars and continued the journey eastward at 11:00 a. m. Bro. Rasmussen and I had a compartment to ourselves to begin with. As we traveled along we soon tired over the scenery, steppes and sky never-ending. We passed through a number of growing railway towns, surrounded by extensive farming districts. Among the more important stations at which we stopped during the afternoon and evening, Shumikka, Kurgan, Makushino and Petropavlovsk may be mentioned. At Kurgan we crossed the river Tobol. Tues., May 28. (Russian time May 15.) Another beautiful day dawned with a clear sky and endless steppes. Early in the morning we passed the town of Isil-Kul and later we crossed the great river Irtysh or Om and arrived at Omsk, a large and important town of Siberia and one with an interesting history. At present it is a center for Danish butter- making and other industries. Continuing the journey eastward we passed Tartarskaya, Kainsk and Chulym. We became accustomed to getting hot water at the railway stations free of charge (the Russian government furnishing the same) and buying bread, eggs, “sansah,” cheese, and other “eats,” from women venders. At nearly every station, when the train stopped, women, standing behind long tables, were at their post, and as soon as the CHAPTER 63 495 train stopped the passengers engaged in a race with each other for supplies. I ate soup with bread at the station buffet. A plate of soup cost 30 kopecks, a loaf of bread 5 kop., a pint of milk 10 kop., an egg 4 kop. A good meal generally cost one ruble—50 cents in American money (1 ruble equals 100 kopek). Bro. Rasmussen and I generally bought our food and ate it in the cars. We ate at least three times a day and, as our appetites were good, we ate with relish, thanks to the hot water so easily obtained en route. Wed., May 29. (Russian time May 16.) A little after midnight we crossed the great river Ob and rolled into the growing town of Novo-Nikolavski. Here a young woman (a Russian) was ushered into our compartment, and though at first we looked upon her as an intrusion, she afterwards became good company for us, as she was sociable and talkative, and she could speak a few words of English. She traveled with us to Irkursk and we missed her very much when she had left us. After crossing the river Ola the country changed fea- ture; instead of the everlasting steppes we entered the so-called taiga or woodland, where a thrifty growth of small trees is seen, mainly upon swampy lowlands. About 9:00 a. m. we arrived at Taiga where our young friend, Mr. Saveljeff, left us, taking a branch line to Tomsk. After that we began to neighbor with a Russian student, who could talk German, and a Chinaman who could talk a little English and also an elderly Russian drummer who could talk German. From Taiga we traveled through the taiga country and stopped for meals, or to buy food, at Marlinsk, Bogotol, Achinsk, and Chernorechenskaya, crossed the Kiya and Chulzm and other rivers, and felt that we were making some headway toward the Pacific. Thurs., May 30. (Russian time May 17.) I got up just as we rolled into Krasnoyorsk, one of Siberia’s leading manufacturing and trading towns. It lies on the river Yenisei, which we crossed soon after on a splendid bridge. The country in this part of Siberia is mountainous. During the day we stopped for meals and supplies at Kanski, Taishet, Nizhneu- dinskaya and other places. Near Kanski we crossed the Kan River. Later in the day we crossed the Biriusa River and the Uda River late in the evening. Fri., May 31. (Russian time May 18.) We continued to travel through a heavy tim- bered, mountainous country. Early in the morning we passed Tulun and about 8:00 o’clock local time (3:30 a. m. St. Petersburg time) we arrived at Zima, after crossing the river Oka, and arrived at Irkutsh about 5:00 o’clock p. m. Here we changed cars (3048 versts or 2028 miles from Chiliabinsk) and I wanted to spend a few hours here in order to see Siberia’s second city in point of importance, but Bro. Rasmussen desired very much to go on. Hence we secured seats in the train which left Irkutsh an hour after our arrival and traveled down the Angara River to Lake Baikal. Here the scenery is lovely beyond descrip- tion. For several years after the building of the great Siberian railway, passengers and goods were ferried across the Baikal, but shortly before we arrived a railway had been built at an enormous expense around the south end of the lake to connect with the railway on the east side. Lake Baikal is the largest and deepest fresh water lake in the old world and is surrounded by mountains. In making the railway around the lake the roadbed had to be cut in solid rock most of the way. I watched the scenery as we passed in and out of tunnels until the south end of the lake was reached and then retired. We had a little trouble about securing comfortable seats at Irkutsh, but by tipping the railway officials we obtained a compartment to ourselves. Sat., June 1. (Russian time May 19.) During the night we had rounded Lake Bai- kal and in the morning the train was climbing the mountains lying immediately east of the lake, traveling along the Selenga River; we stopped for breakfast at Berkknendinsk and arrived at Zaigraevo at 8:00 a. m. The mountain regions in this transbaikal territory reminded us of the scenery immediately north of Sanpete Valley, Utah. We crossed a 496 AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF ANDREW JENSON

mountain ridge to Petrovsk Works and later in the day at the station of Talboga we saw several wandering Buriats. They are said to be a cross between the Chinese and Tartars, and are very ugly in appearance. Along the line were numerous gangs of men engaged in widening the track bed in order to make the great Siberian road a double-tracked one. It was interesting to note how the sandy slopes of deep cuts were finished by driving small stakes in the ground about six inches apart for forming regular squares and then interweaving them with wicker work. For many miles we followed the river Khilop and at last reached the summit of the Yablonovn Mountains between the stations of Sakhando and Yablonovaya which divides the headwaters of the river Kuku, a tributary of the Ingoda, flowing eastward to the Pacific. From the headwaters of the Khilok the water flows westward toward Lake Baikal, and thence far off into the Arctic Ocean. About 11:00 p. m., we arrived at Chita, on the Chita River, one of the original Siberian penal colonies. Here a number of other passengers came into our car and we had to share our compartment with a man, a boy, and a dog during the night. Sunday, June 2. (Russian time May 20.) During the night we had traveled for a long distance down the Ingoda River and passed Aga. Shortly after having crossed the Borch River, we saw a caravan of camels traveling on a wagon road in the same direction that we were going. As we neared Manchuria we noticed large encampments of Russian soldiers, and we learned from fellow passengers that Russia constantly kept a large army near the frontiers, ready to rush into that territory in case of revolt or disturbances about the railroad. We crossed the boundary line into the town of Manchuria at 4:00 o’clock in the afternoon. Learning that we would have to stop at this frontier town 15 hours, we determined to put the time to the best possible advantage. I took three lengthy rambles through the interesting town, where the Chinese predominate and Russian soldiers and police govern. We found the Chinese bazaar especially interesting. Here all kinds of food and trinkets were offered for sale by the hundreds of vendors. Being invited by our friend the Belgian consul, we accompanied him and his wife to a moving picture show, which was at par with shows of a similar kind shown in other countries. After returning to the station at a late hour, I sat up the remainder of the night writing my journal, while Bro. Rasmussen in the midst of other passengers who, like us, were waiting for the next train, tried to snatch a little sleep sitting in a chair. The town of Manchuria has about 12,000 inhabitants, exclu- sive of the Russian soldiers who had a large encampment on the south side of the railroad, while the business town was on the opposite side of the track. Manchuria is situated in an open, treeless prairie country, and its environment reminds me very much of Cheyenne, Wyoming, as I first saw that town in 1870. Mon., June 3. (Russian time May 21.) We ate bread and milk for breakfast in Man- churia, had our passports viseed and our luggage examined by the custom officials and prepared to continue our journey eastward. Our Belgian friend secured a place in the same compartment with us for himself and wife, and we found them pleasant and obliging companions. The wife spoke only Russian, but understood considerable of what we said. At 8:00 o’clock a. m. we rolled out of Manchuria and traveled all day through a sparsely settled country. At each station where we stopped, the Chinese population seemed to be out en masse to see the train, and Russian soldiers, armed to the teeth, were present everywhere. A little army also traveled with us on the train. At Kingan we passed through a long tunnel (it took us seven minutes to go through) and we soon reached Bogoda, where we ate supper. During the day we passed a Chinese prison, from which it is said thousands of Chinese robbers have been led forth to execution. Tues., June 4. (Russian time May 22.) At 10:00 a. m. we crossed the great river Sun- gari and entered the new city of Harbin. Here we parted reluctantly with Consul Wilfrid CHAPTER 63 497

Grosjean and wife who were to live in Harbin, and while the train stopped at the Harbin station one hour and ten minutes I walked into the commercial part of the city and witnessed many things that greatly interested me. In the course of a few years Harbin has grown from an insignificant Chinese village to a city of 50,000 inhabitants. It is perhaps, at present, as wicked a city as can be found on earth. Robberies, theft, and murders occur almost daily. Even the Russian soldiers cannot, with their iron rule, keep order in that city. There were some fine modern buildings in Harbin, but most of the houses were low one-story edifices and the bulk of the inhabitants Chinese. We continued our journey at 11:10 a. m. and found that we had a new room mate, a Mr. A. H. Hofschneyder, who could talk English, German, Greek, Italian and Russian. He was quite sociable and told us many things about the country through which we traveled, some of which, however, may have been exaggerated. But we were thankful for his company. At every station we saw multitudes of Chinese dressed in almost every conceivable style of dress and mixed among them were the tall, good-looking Russian soldiers. Near Emianpa, where we ate supper, Mr. Hofschneyder drew our attention to some low mountain ridges in which he said the so-called Hungusers (renegade Chinamen who have turned robbers) had their strongholds, from which they often emerged to commit robberies and murders, and sometimes to kidnap rich people, or their children, and then demand huge sums as ransom. Before leaving us at Harbin, our Belgian friend informed me that a Russian official the day before had observed that I was making notes. This official had called Mr. Grosjean to one side to inquire if I were a spy who should be arrested. My friend explained that I was an American journalist, making notes for his paper, and that I was absolutely harmless as far as the Russian government was concerned. Upon the consul promising that he would be responsible for me, the officer dropped the matter. I had been taking notes at the time without thinking of giving offense to Russians, but after this little episode I was very care- ful about writing when anybody saw me. Wed., June 5. (Russian time May 23.) I was much pleased with the appearance of the country through which I passed. At 9:00 o’clock we crossed the boundary line between Manchuria and the Russian province known as the Littoral Territory, or the Ussuri district, into the Russian town of Pogranichnaia, where we stopped an hour. Continuing our journey (going through two short tunnels), we passed Prodekovo, where the soldiers’ barracks and the almost innumerable small white lumber houses of the more permanent Russian inhabitants courted our special attention. At Nikolskoe, our friend Mr. Hofschneyder left us to go north on another train, and we continued our journey from Nikolskoe down the Suifun River to Razdolnoe and soon reached the Uglovoi Bay, an arm of the Pacific Ocean, which we had longed to see for several days. At 7:25 o’clock p. m. we rolled into the beautiful new station at Vladi- vostok, thankful indeed that our long and somewhat tedious railway journey was at last ended. For twelve days we had traveled continuously with the exception of the hours we laid by waiting for a train in Manchuria. We traveled the following distances since we left St. Petersburg on May 22nd: St. Petersburg to Moscow 610 verst Moscow to Chiliabinsk 2,058 “ Chiliabinsk to Irkursk 3,048 “ Irkursk to Manchuria 1,424 “ Manchuria to Vladivostok 1,605 “ Total 8,745 verst 498 AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF ANDREW JENSON

On our arrival in Vladivostok I left Elder Rasmussen at the railway station to look after our satchels, while I went out in town and engaged a room at the Grand Hotel (4 rubles for the night), which we immediately took possession of; but before retiring we took a long ramble through the heart of the town. Thurs., June 6. (Russian time May 24.) We arose quite early and first went to the harbor to arrange for our passage to Japan. We already had tickets to Tokyo, and a steamer belonging to the Russian volunteer fleet was in the harbor to sail for Tsurugu in the afternoon. We next called at the American consulate, our attention being drawn to it by an American flag floating in the breeze in front of a large building; there we had a pleasant conversation with a Mr. Newhart belonging to the consulate. It afforded us much satisfaction to have the opportunity to converse freely with an American in good English, a privilege that we had not enjoyed since we left the Elders in Stockholm. And then to see good “Old Glory” in this far-off corner of the globe! We next proceeded to the great business house belonging to the firm of Hunst & Albers, where we at once became acquainted with two young Danes, Valdemar Hansen and Hugo de Nully Brown, who were most affable and accommodating to us, the latter showing us through the establishment and helping us to buy a few articles to take home. After an extensive walk through the center of the city (which had about 60,000 inhabitants) and along the busy wharves, we hired a Chinaman to take our valises to the steamship “Penza.” Precisely at 2:00 o’clock we sailed from Vladivostok and enjoyed the scenery very much as we passed out of the Bay of the Golden Horn, on which the city we were leaving is situated, and through the East Bosphorus Strait to the open Japanese Sea. Vladivostok is built on slopes which rise to the height of from 300 to 487 feet above sea level. It looks grand and imposing from the seaside. Before we sailed I regulated my watch setting it according to local time. I had retained St. Petersburg time since I left that city and found on arriving at Vladivostok that my watch was 6 hours and 46 minutes behind local time. In other words, when the clock shows 12 noon in St. Petersburg it is 6:46 p. m. of the same day in Vladivostok. The difference of time between St. Petersburg and Copenhagen is 1 hour and 11 minutes, and consequently there is a difference of 7 hours and 57 minutes between Copenhagen and Vladivostok. Hence, since leaving Copenhagen we had traveled nearly one third the distance around the globe. Another one-third would bring us home to Salt Lake City. Before night we were far out upon the blue waters of the Japanese Sea, the last head- land being passed upon our left about 4 p. m. In the second cabin, where we became comfortably located (two of us in a large state room), we were thrown together with nine other passengers, all Russians, except one heavy-set, whiskey-bloated Frenchman, and a pleasant young Austrian, with whom I conversed in German. The captain of the “Penza,” who could speak English, was very kind to us. Fri., June 7. The weather continued good. I spent the day reading, writing and conversing. I also visited with the captain, Fritz Tenne, who gave me some useful information about Japan. The weather was fine. Sat., June 8. As we looked out of the port hole of our state room we beheld the mountainous shores of Japan in close proximity, and we steamed into the Tsuruga Bay, landing at Tsuruga at 6:00 o’clock by steam launch, as the ship cast anchor a short distance from the wharf. We passed through the customs without trouble, hired two jinrikishas to take us through the town to the railway station, a distance of about two miles. This was the second time I rode in a jinrikisha (a two-wheeled cart propelled by human instead of horse flesh), and we found this way of locomotion at least interesting. In passing thus through CHAPTER 63 499 the town of Tsuruga, following some of its main thoroughfares, we got a pretty good idea of a Japanese town. Securing seats in a small Japanese second-class railroad car, we left Tsuruga at 7:39 a. m.; first, our journey led through an open valley covered with rice fields, then through mountains, following canyons and passing through tunnels, some of them quite long. Emerging from the mountains we came to an open country, skirted Lake Biwa and arrived at Mai- bara at 9:30 a. m. Here we changed cars and stopped about 1½ hours, during which I took a long walk through the town. At 11:05 a. m. we continued our journey by the Shimbashi (Tokyo) express, and traveled through valleys and mountains, crossed several large rivers and stopped a short time at the principal stations, such as Ogaki, Gifu, Nagoya (where we saw a large castle and other large buildings), Hamamatsu, Shidzuoka, Numadzu, Kodzu and Hiranuma. Soon after leaving Nagoya we saw the Pacific Ocean, and from that point on we skirted its shores at intervals. On our left we saw the great mountain Fuji (the so-called Sacred Mountain of Japan), 12,370 feet high. It is an extinct volcano, and the highest mountain in the country. Every- thing that we saw and witnessed in Japan was so different from Russia that it seemed as if we suddenly had dropped into a new or different world. The clattering of wooden- bottomed slippers on the feet of the natives at the stations, and the cries of venders of wares at the stations were deafening, and yet it was very amusing indeed to see these little Japs imitate the Anglo-Saxons in dress, manners and general deportment. Throughout, these Japs that we met on that journey seemed extremely obliging and courteous, and quite a number of the men could speak English. At 8:30 p. m. we arrived at the Shimbashi station in the outskirts of Tokyo (314 miles from Tsuruga). Here we were met by Pres. Elbert D. Thomas and Elder James Scowcroft and a native brother, Takahashi. We were overjoyed indeed to see these, our dear brethren, as it was dark, and it would have been a most difficult problem to find our way anywhere alone. I had telegraphed Pres. Thomas from Tsuruga in the morning telling him that we were coming. Our valises were sent by jinrikishas to the mission office at 81 Yakuojimae- Machi, Ushigome Ku, while we went there by street car. At the mission house, a comfortable and attractive building, erected in foreign style, we met Elders Melvin F. Barton, James A. Miller and Heber Grant Ivins, and also Sister Edna Harker Thomas, wife of Pres. Thomas. The cordial reception given us made us feel at home at once. Sun., June 9. We attended the Sunday School at the mission house at Tokyo from 9 to 10:30 a. m., and listened with interest to what was going on, though we could not understand the language used. Sister Thomas, who was teaching the children’s class, made the session very interesting by showing some stones and relics from Palestine, which I lent her for the purpose. From 11:00 a. m. to 12:00 noon we attended the Sacrament meeting, at which I spoke about 20 minutes, with Bro. Barton as interpreter, followed by Elder Rasmussen. Our remarks seemed to be appropriate for the occasion and to give good satisfaction. In the public meeting, commencing at 7:30 p. m., Elder Barton preached a gospel sermon. About 55 people, mostly children, attended the Sunday School, twenty the Sacrament service and thirty the evening meeting. We enjoyed the day, though we could not converse with the people, with the exception of a few who could talk a little English. In being introduced to the different members and friends after the meetings, we noticed the awkwardness of some of the natives in shak- ing hands, a custom with which the Japanese do not seem to be acquainted. They simply bow to each other when they greet one another, and hardly touch each other. Our Sunday in Japan was a new experience to us indeed. In a walk between meetings we visited two Buddha temples. 500 AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF ANDREW JENSON

Mon., June 10. I spent the forenoon writing and reading the “Deseret News.” About noon, accompanied by Elder Ivins, Bro. Rasmussen and I went by street car to the Shim- bashi station, where we met Pres. Thomas and then traveled by rail about 18 miles to Yokohama (a city of about 350,000 inhabitants), where we arrived about 2:00 p. m. We then traveled about a mile to the business center of the city, or to the office of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha steamship line office and secured passage on the “Tenyo Maru” for America, to sail for San Francisco the next Sunday (June 16th). We next took another jinrikisha ride through the heart of the city to a certain bridge, whence we walked quite a distance to a wooded hillside outside of the city, where Apostle Heber J. Grant and the three other Elders with him met for prayer on Sept. 1, 1901, and dedicated the Empire of Japan for the preaching of the gospel. Since that time this spot has been looked upon as sacred and has frequently been visited by Elders. We all three engaged in prayer and felt the presence of God’s Holy Spirit. I prayed first and was followed by Elders Rasmussen and Thomas. We almost shed tears of joy, as we prayed earnestly and sincerely for the success of the Japanese Mission and for ourselves and families in Zion. After this pleasant experience, we took a long walk through a foreign quarter of Yoko- hama known as the Bluff district, reached an elevated spot affording a fine view of the harbor and finally traveled by jinrikishas back to the railway station, whence we returned by train to Shimbashi and by street car to our missionary home in Ushigome Ku. Tues., June 11. Spent all day at the mission headquarters, culling historical notes and writing letters and post cards to family and friends. Wed., June 12. Busy all day at the mission office culling historical notes from the records of the mission for Church history. In the evening I addressed a Japanese class in English—a class taught by Elder Ivins in the mission house. There were nearly thirty intelligent students present who listened attentively to my little speech on proper living and practical Christianity, advising the natives to copy the virtues but not the vices of the whites. Elder Rasmussen also spoke. I was becoming quite interested in the Japa- nese people. Thurs., June 13. In company with Pres. Thomas I spent all day making purchases and in sight-seeing. I bought several articles to take home. We visited the Shiba temple (Buddha), the entrance to the Imperial Palace, and the Usakusa Park, where we climbed a high tower and obtained a beautiful view of the city. Thence we again crossed the city by street car to the Uena Park, where we saw a large statue of Buddha, and also a statue of the renowned General Komatsu (meaning a little pine tree). We saw two trees which had been planted by Gen. U. S. Grant and wife during their visit to Japan in 1879. We thoroughly enjoyed our visits, and must at least have traveled 20 miles by street car alone besides walking many miles. Most of the articles to take home were bought in business houses known as the “Mit- sukoshi.” Tokyo is a great city and by far the most unique of all the large cities of the world that I ever visited. It is said to cover an area of nearly 10 miles square, and to contain two and one-half million inhabitants. The streets are nearly all narrow and crooked, but order and politeness seem to be the rule everywhere. In the evening, in response to an invitation, we visited Sister Saigo, one of the most devout and faithful members of the Church in Tokyo, who lived in a genuine Japanese home. She and her mother and brother treated us royally, though we had to sit on mats spread on the floor while eating and being entertained with music by some native instru- ments that jarred our senses very much, and yet with the Japanese it was supposed to be classic and fine music. Our sister could talk a little English, so the time passed pleasantly. Altogether this was a “red letter day” in our travels. While Pres. Thomas escorted me, CHAPTER 63 501

Bro. Rasmussen was being conducted through the town by Brother Miller. On our return to the office late in the evening we met another of our Elders laboring in Japan, viz., Wil- liam Samuel Ellis, who called at mission headquarters on his way from Kofu to Sapporo, on the island of Hokkaido. Fri., June 14. I spent all day at the mission headquarters assisted by Pres. Thomas and Elder Heber Grant Ivins, culling from the missionary journal such important items which I thought would be wanted for Church history. Sat., June 15. Having worked till nearly 2:00 o’clock the night before, I arose late but finished the historical work that I wished to do by noon. In the afternoon Sister Thomas and child and Brother Rasmussen and I rode out in jinrikishas about two miles to the Peers School (school of nobles), where we witnessed Pres. Thomas and Elder Ivins, Barton and Miller, and three other Americans play base ball with Japanese players. It was the inten- tion that the Tokyo-American team, of which our Elders were members and Elder Ivins captain, should have played a base ball team representing the Peers School; but only seven of the American team came, our boys were divided and played with the Japanese boys (i. e., Elder Ivins and Barton and other Americans on our side and Pres. Thomas and Elder Miller and our other Americans with 6 Japanese opposing them). The scoring was 4 to 3 in favor of the team in which Elder Ivins and Barton played. There were six innings played, and the game throughout was well played and interesting. Among the audience were three princes of the royal blood—as far as we could learn, grandchildren of the present Emperor of Japan. Sister Thomas and Brother Rasmussen and I had seats immediately behind the princes. On our return to the office Sister Ei Nachie made us a present. The girl who works at the mission house treated us all to a splendid Japanese supper which we endeavored to eat in the regular Japanese way. Bro. Rasmussen and I were becoming experts at the use of the “chop sticks.” Sun., June 16. We arose quite early to make ready for our departure, but before we got away the Sunday School children had gathered to the number of fifty or more, and we said goodbye to them in the Japanese way by bowing quite deeply. The children answered in concert by saying “sayonara,” repeating it several times before we left the premises. It made a deep impression upon us. I gave each of the children a printed photo of myself. Bro. Thomas accompanying us, Brother Rasmussen and I took the street car to the old foreigners quarters, where we saw the “Hotel Metropole,” at which Elder Heber J. Grant and fellow missionaries first lived after locating in Tokyo. We also visited the St. Luke’s Hospital, where Elder James Scowcroft had undergone an operation in the breast a few days before; he was getting along fine, the operation having been very successful. We also visited Tokyo East Hongwauji, the most elaborate Buddha temple in Tokyo. Unlike all other temples that we have seen this was a clean one. In other Buddha temples that we had entered, pigeons were allowed full sway, but all birds were kept out of this one. At the Chimbashi station Sister Thomas and child joined us and the four of us left at noon for Yokohama, where five jinrikishas took us to the steamer “Tenyo Maru” lying in the Yokohama harbor. We boarded that fine ship at once. Bro. Thomas, wife and child took lunch with us and helped to locate us snugly in our state room. At 3:00 p. m. we took leave of Brother and Sister Thomas and the ship sailed. The water being low (tide out) we were delayed just outside of the entrance to the harbor and did not get fairly under way till 5 p. m. The evening being cloudy and misty we did not enjoy the scenery as we sailed out as much as we would have done had the day been clear. About 9:00 p. m. we passed a lighthouse on our left which was the last we saw of Japan, and when we retired we were fairly out on the great Pacific. 502 AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF ANDREW JENSON

Mon., June 17. The day was cloudy and a little cold. I spent most of the day reading “The Conquest of Mexico,” by Prescott. The ship’s log, posted up at noon, read as follows: Lat. 34° 58’. Long. 144° 33’ 30”. Distance run 271 miles from Yokohama. To Honolulu 2117 miles. Tues., June 18. I spent the day mostly reading and watching the other passengers play games. Wed., June 19. I wrote a narrative of part of the journey for “Bikuben.” At the dinner table copies of a small newspaper published on board were circulated. It contained tele- grams dated Tokyo, June 17th, telling of rains, floods and railway disasters in Japan, and one dated Chicago, stating that Col. Roosevelt had arrived in Chicago and was dissatisfied because the commission had given all the contested seats to Taft without looking into the merits of the case. Thurs., June 20. The sun peeped from behind the clouds the first time since we sailed from Yokohama. I spent the day reading and writing. The young people danced on the upper deck in the evening. It was interesting to watch the passengers and to see how they were employing their time. We were 173 passengers in the first class, among them a few Japanese. According to the printed list there were 7 clergymen, 3 majors and 3 doctors on board. All the rest had only “Mr.,” “Mrs.” or “Miss” as a prefix to their names. Some of the passengers were continually reading, others promenading the decks, again others playing deck games, some playing cards, others conversing, a few courting, many smoking, and a number drink- ing. The ship was one of the most comfortable and convenient that I had ever traveled on. There was almost everything imaginable to make life pleasant on board. Breakfast was served in the large dining hall at 8:30 a. m., broth (on deck) at 11:00 a. m., tiffin at 1:00 p. m., tea at 4:00 p. m., dinner at 7:00 p. m., and supper at 10:00 p. m. Gongs were sounded to announce meal hours. Most of the passengers seemed to be wealthy people and to be traveling for pleasure. There were 38 passengers in the 2nd class and 439 in the 3rd. The ship’s crew, all told, consisted of 255 men and a lady; hence, there were 926 souls on board. Fri., June 21. We were getting into a warmer climate, though it was still cloudy. I spent most of the day reading and writing. In the evening about 30 Japanese wrestlers entertained the people with feats of wrestling, all naked except around the waist and loins. Considerable skill was manifested. After that the passengers met in the smoking saloon and engaged in betting on how many knots or nautical miles the ship would make the following day. The selling of numbers from 268 to 392 brought from $3 to $23 a number; then all below that was sold for $17 and the “high field” brought $43. The man that got the right number was to have 50 per cent of all moneys, the ones having 5 numbers below or above were to have 25 per cent each. About $200 was risked altogether. Fri., June 21 (the second time). As we crossed the 180 degree of longitude this day we had two Fridays this week. I spent part of the day writing. In the afternoon games arranged by a committee were played and in the evening moving pictures were shown on the upper deck. The moon came out most beautifully in the evening. Sat., June 22. I sent a wireless telegram to Pres. Woolley of the Sandwich Islands as follows: “Please meet me at Honolulu Monday morning with mission records after 1895. Andrew Jenson.” Sun., June 23. We attended religious service in the dining saloon. Rev. J. N. Mills, a minister from Evanston, Illinois, preached the sermon. He was a broad-minded man on some points. Referring to the newly organized Christian Church of China, he said though it might be different to the Church (Presbyterian) that he represented, it might perhaps be just as good, perhaps even better. I agreed with his statement, as one man-made church might be just as good as another and even better. CHAPTER 63 503

Mon., June 24. About 4:00 o’clock a. m. we were sailing between the island of Kauai (on our left) and Nehau (on our right), and at 9 p. m. we sighted the island of Oahu; about 2:00 p. m. we were near the city of Honolulu. The health officers and custom house officers came out in a small craft and boarded our ship. All the passengers passed before the doctors, and at 4:00 p. m. we went on shore. Bro. Rasmussen and I walked to the conference house on Punch Bowl street, where we received a hearty welcome. The brethren had looked for us all day, but had been led astray by the telephone people who had said that the “Tenyo Maru” had not been sighted, when it lay in the harbor. Tues., June 25. After meeting with many dear friends, some being Hawaiians, Elder Ernest L. Miner, president of the Honolulu Conference, accompanied Bro. Rasmussen and me to the top of the mountain called Punch Bowl from which we enjoyed a most glorious sunset as “King Sol” was disappearing behind the rugged heights of the Oahu Mountains beyond Pearl Harbor. After supper seven of us—Pres. Miner and little daughter Odetta Miner, Sisters Kate McAllister, and Mamie Abbott (lady missonaries), Sister Mercy Hadfield (a visitor from Utah), Bro. Rasmussen and I—went down town and listened to the playing by the celebrated Hawaiian band and solo singing by some Hawaiian ladies from the band stand in the city park. Then we separated, our friends returning to their homes while Bro. Rasmussen and I returned to the ship “Tenyo Maru” for the night. Elder Peter C. Rasmussen and I sailed from Honolulu on the ship “Tenyo Maru.” By 10:00 o’clock a. m. we were off Diamond Head; distance run from Honolulu, 5 miles; distance to San Francisco, 2083 miles. Having doubled Diamond Point or Head we sailed along the shore of the island of Oahu in a northeasternly direction, and as we proceeded on the voyage the dim outline of Molokai was visible. At 4:00 o’clock p. m. nothing but sea and sky were to be seen; the day was warm and pleasant. Wed., June 26. The day was beautiful but a little windy. Thurs., June 27. Another beautiful day. We were reminded that this was the 68th anniversary of the martyrdom of the Prophet Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum. Fri., June 28. We spent the day reading and writing and watching the playing of games in the afternoon. I played checkers with some of the passengers. Sat., June 29. The weather was getting colder as we came further and further north. I conversed freely with some of the passengers. The “Tenyo Maru” was a triple screw tur- bine steamer, built in Japan. It represented in material, construction, stability and also in splendor, comfort and spaciousness of accommodation, the highest expression of the ship builders’ art, all the machine devices for comfort and safety having been employed. The ship was 575 feet in length and had a breadth of 63 feet. It had accommodation for 275 first-class passengers, 54 second-class passengers and 800 Asiatic steerage. A new system of ventilation provided fresh air in each state room in all kinds of weather and the model ice making plant insured a constant supply of fresh foods in perfect condition. There was also a wireless telegraph apparatus on board. Sun., June 30. Together with about 40 other passengers I attended services conducted by a Mr. Parshley, a Church of England missionary and school teacher who had labored in Japan. He preached a sermon with considerable oratorical ability on the unifying powers of Christianity—a sermon suited to the taste of most of the listeners. He reviewed the condition of the world, but failed to mention any method whereby it could be improved only that Christianity could do it, but how and by whom he did not say. After the services I conversed with a Catholic Priest, a Rev. Shiel, on religious subjects and we agreed on many points. Mon., July 1. The mountainous coast of California was seen through the morning mist and later we saw five torpedo boats steaming down the coast. At 11:30 a. m. the pilot came on board and about noon we steamed through the Golden Gate and cast anchor in 504 AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF ANDREW JENSON

the quarantine district. Here health officers came on board, and we all passed review before landing. About 3:00 p. m. we sailed up to the company’s wharf in San Francisco. On our arrival in San Francisco we made our way to the conference office at Broder- ick St., San Francisco, where we met Elder Heber J. Hatch, president of the San Francisco Conference, and other Elders who labored under his direction. The next day (July 2nd) I received a telegram from my wife Bertha, stating that she would arrive in San Francisco on the 3rd to meet me. On July 3rd I went to the ferry where I met not only my wife Bertha, but also my son Harold and daughter Eva. It was an added pleasure to meet three of my family instead of one. We spent several days visiting places of interest in San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley and other places. On July 10th we went by rail to Los Angeles, where we attended meetings and also went to San Pedro from which port we made a trip to the island of Santa Catalina. Visiting Ocean Park on July 16th we met Pres. Joseph F. Smith and his wife Edna L. and daughters Martha, Emma, Lutie and Edith who had arrived the previous evening from Salt Lake City to spend a month in southern California. Pres. Smith bade me a hearty welcome and we spent the afternoon and part of the evening very pleasantly together. In the evening Pres. Smith accompanied us to Venice, a nearby coast resort. My son Harold was keeping company with Miss Martha Smith. At Ocean Park we also met our true friend and fellow laborer, Apostle George Albert Smith and his family and other friends from Utah who were rusticating on the sea shore. During my visit in California I spent considerable time working on the mission records in Los Angeles, as well as doing considerable sight seeing. On Wednesday, July 17th, we left Los Angeles, homeward bound. We arrived in Salt Lake City in the morning of July 19th, and found everything in good condition there. I visited the “Bikuben” Office, the Historian’s Office and the President’s Office and was also bid welcome home by a number of former friends and associates whom I met on the street. I was pleased to note the magnificent Hotel Utah, the L. D. S. Gymnasium and other important buildings which had been erected since I left home in 1909. Otherwise everything looked familiar to me in the “land of Zion,” and I was glad to be home once more to meet family, neighbors and friends. On my return home I found that A. Wm. Lund had been chosen as an assistant Church Historian. He was first sustained in that position at the general conference of the Church held April 9, 1911. I left home Jan. 8, 1909, and returned July 19, 1912; hence I had been away just 3 years, 6 months and one day. During my absence I traveled about 77,690 miles, namely, 47,000 miles by rail, 27,906 by ocean steamers, 370 miles by cabs and other vehicles, 42 miles by row boat, 2 miles by canal boat, 15 miles by sleighs, 230 miles by automobiles, 165 miles on horseback, 67 miles by jinrikishaw and 1893 miles on foot. During my mission I delivered 1034 public addresses, including 78 illustrated lectures and 62 translations for other speakers. I had enjoyed good health nearly all the time I had been away and rejoiced in the success that had attended my labors. On Saturday, July 20th, I called at the President’s Office and had a long conversation with Presidents Anthon H. Lund and Charles W. Penrose. The first Sunday after my arrival home (July 21st) I spent as follows: I attended and spoke in the circle meeting in the Temple in the morning; later by invitation I visited the 16th Ward Sunday School, where I delivered a short lecture on the Utah Pioneers; then, accompanied by my wife Emma, I attended the dedication of a monument in honor of Elder Orson Pratt in the city ceme- tery, where by special request I gave a short speech, following Pres. Charles W. Penrose and Gov. Spry; in the afternoon I attended a session of the Liberty Stake quarterly conference, CHAPTER 63 505 and in the evening a pioneer program in the 17th Ward. The day was very warm and I suf- fered somewhat in consequence of the heat, having recently come from a colder climate. The meeting with old friends was very pleasant indeed, but I missed the faces of so many who during my absence had passed beyond the veil. Among others I met Bro. Oluf J. Andersen who had returned from Scandinavia two or three days before. In the home I made some changes, as I took possession of the room for my private use which had been occupied by my mother-in-law while I was away from home, until her death in December, 1909. On my return home I missed her indeed for she had been living with us ever since I married her daughters. On July 30th I commenced laboring again at the Historian’s Office. Objecting to going back into my small ill-shaped room which I had occupied before going on my mission, my desk was placed in the southwest corner of the largest room in the Historian’s Office, where the air and light were good. In August I visited Pleasant Grove, Ogden and other places, and on Sunday, Aug. 11th, I preached in the Tabernacle, giving a somewhat full account of my mission and the conditions prevailing in the Scandinavian countries. During the remainder of the year I was quite busy filling special appointments to preach or lecture in different wards and settlements of the Church. I also made a visit to Idaho, Brigham City and other places, and attended the weekly circle meeting held in the Temple. I spent Thursday, Sept. 5th, in the Temple, speaking 15 minutes, and then witnessed the marriage of my daughter Eva to Alvin E. Olson, Eva taking her own endow- ments that day also. Pres. Anthon H. Lund performed the ceremony. We spent the afternoon in part decorating the lawn with flags and bunting. Electric wires had been stretched across the lawn so that at night it looked like a fairy garden. The guests began to assemble about 8:00 o’clock p. m. Upwards of three hundred people responded to invitations and they were served one hundred at a time, at small tables, each of these accommodating four persons with the necessary chairs placed on the lawn. After refreshments had been served an impromptu program was carried out and while the first hundred ate, Bishop Søren Rasmussen, Elder Asahel H. Woodruff and Pres. Anthon H. Lund made short speeches. A fine influence prevailed and many of those present expressed themselves that they had never before seen or participated in a wedding reception which was prettier or better arranged than this one. The Clive orchestra discoursed sweet music during the evening. The presents more than filled two large tables. Later in September I visited Sanpete Valley and attended the stake conference at Mount Pleasant Sept. 15th. On this visit I gathered some additional information which I added to the history of North Sanpete Stake and some of its settlements. I also wrote several biographical sketches which later were printed in the L. D. S. Biographical Encyclopedia. At the October Conference I was one of the speakers in the outdoor overflow meeting on the Temple Block. On Oct. 30th I acted as chairman in a Republican rally and also made a short speech, this being my only attempt that year to take part in the campaign. On Nov. 24th I was one of the speakers in a conference of the Granite Stake. The year 1912 was, like many of its predecessors, an eventful one to me, and witnessed, among other things, my second trip around the world, my first circumnavigation of the globe having taken place in 1885–1887. I felt thankful for the blessings bestowed upon me by my Heavenly Father, in that I had been permitted to return home in safety from a mission of three years and a half to a foreign land and that at the end of the year my family circle was unbroken, all being in good health and through the blessings of the Lord in comfortable circumstances.