QVEVRI CULTURE by Paul White

QVEVRI CULTURE by Paul White dd, very odd indeed, is how it felt to be sniffing a glass of wine pulled from clay pots designed in antiquity, knowing that Russian artillery guns on the opposite hills were zeroed in on the little village of Chardakhi, Kartli. Winemaker Iago Bitarishvili had said nothing about the menace beyond… but it must have been in the back of his mind constantly. A year later, it was possible to see where the Russians had recently moved Odown from the Ossetian hills. They were much closer now, the infantry within half a mile of cutting off the country’s only artery uniting the eastern and western sides of this young republic. THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 53 | 2016 | 117 feature / Paul White / Qvevri Culture A map shows it all. Russia’s invasion of South Ossetia in 2008 ferment mainly white grapes using extensive skin, stem, and had split the country in half, like a boil waiting to burst. Now, It is impossible to drink wine seed contact throughout fermentation and maturation. three newly formed salients looked more like soured teats Traditional talha and qvevri wines have no added sulfur dioxide, dangling off Mother Russia’s unwelcome udder. It must be in Georgia without long toasts leaving acidity and skin tannins to take on vital antioxidant roles. horrible to wake up one morning and find your house asking God to watch over your The result is often a darker-hued, more visceral style of white surrounded by soldiers and told to go—now! Your family beaten, wine—essentially, white behaving like it wants to be red. your ancestor’s vineyards confiscated, everything left behind… future. Language, religion, and Grapes are foot-trodden, ensuring berries are properly The Georgians have been here before, far too often. They’ve crushed in order to avoid explosive carbonic maceration either fought off, or been occupied by, the Mongols, the Persians, wine… Georgia’s holy trinity. buildup during fermentation. Alentejians use stone basins, the Ottomans, the Russians, the Soviets, and now the Russians And then there are their whereas Georgians tread their grapes in impressively long, again. Over the past several hundred years, they have been free large hollowed-out logs or high-walled troughs that are easily only for a short three years after World War I and, more recently, terra-cotta pots, called qvevri. shifted from one pot hole to the next. During fermentation, following the breakup of the Soviet Union. the caps must be punched down five or more times a day to Against all odds, they have remained Georgians, their The first domesticated grapes relieve explosive pressure and avoid spoilage. In both cases, culture kept alive by the uniqueness of their language, their pot openings are covered in cloth to keep insects out, leaving religion, and their wine. Christianity, distinct from surrounding were placed in these, giving birth natural CO2 to blanket the wines and help stave off oxidation. orthodoxies, arrived in the 4th century via St Nino, who bore a to Contrary to normal white-winemaking practices, directly after cross made from two grapevines tied together with her own civilization’searliest fermentation red wines are usually transferred off their skins hair. That cross continues as Georgia’s most sacred symbol. winemaking culture and seeds to a different pot for longer maturation. Similarly, their ancient Proto-Kartvelian language is uniquely From this point on, both systems and techniques differ. their own, its ywino the origin of what most of us call wine. And above-ground pots had continued to survive in a few small Traditional Alentejian talha wines are covered with a thin layer their wine is also like no other, driven by 526 autochthonous villages in southern Portugal (see “Alentejo’s Talha Wine of olive oil that protects the wine from oxidation, with minimal grape varieties and mother-vines that went forth to populate Traditions,” WFW 49, pp.98–104). Compounding the tenuous tainting from the oil surface. Talhas are first tapped on St many parts of central Europe. It is impossible to drink wine in nature of these connections and misconnections, neither the Martin’s Day, November 11, via a hole at the bottom. Thereafter Georgia without long toasts asking God to watch over your latter-day Georgians nor the Alentejians were aware of each they are continuously drained from below via gravity, with skins future. Language, religion, and wine… Georgia’s holy trinity. other’s clay-pot winemaking tradition. and sediment creating a natural filter that allows glasses and And then there are their large terra-cotta pots, called qvevri. The situation today has changed. Like long-lost cousins, the pitchers to be filled until the talha is empty, usually by late The first domesticated grapes were placed in these, giving birth Georgians and Alentejians are meeting up again and sharing summer. The refined design of this less ancient form of super- to civilization’s earliest winemaking culture. their insights with one another. And for the first time, sized bag-in-box is that it is set up for one-pot cooking: Drop practitioners of clay-pot winemaking will share their knowledge in grapes, drink until drained, clean once, and begin again. New wine from old pots and wines this November in Tuscany at Terra Cotta Wine 2016. After fermentation, Georgian qvevri are commonly topped The earliest Georgian civilizations (straddling parts of modern (Email [email protected] for further details.) off and sealed with a wooden plug interfaced with wet clay Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Turkey) were the first to bring against the pot’s lips. The plug is weighted down and then together grape domestication, endurable high-fired clay-pot- Qvevri v talha covered in clean sand, which is watered daily to keep the clay making, and the magic of winemaking. By so doing, they Although qvevri and talha traditions differ in significant ways, seal moist and airtight. greatly advanced the progress of agriculture, religion, social they are clearly and closely related to one another. What is Most white wines are left on their skins and solids for six stratification, and urbanization. That was between 7,000 and amazing is that after at least 2,000 years of separate evolution, months, whereupon they are opened to be drunk or bottled 8,000 years ago. Since then, clay-pot winemaking evolved both cultures use pots that are strikingly similar in shape and or shifted into another qvevri for further maturation. Any through Phoenician, Greek, and Roman civilizations, finally size, while also sharing several winemaking techniques. This left-over wine is shifted into progressively smaller storage jars. reaching southern Portugal’s Alentejo 2,000 years ago. Over suggests that a degree of evolutionary perfection had already Wines are carefully bucketed out of qvevri without disturbing the course of time, clay pots have disappeared from virtually been reached far back in ancient times. One can easily argue their sediment. In previous times, a clever array of gourds everywhere except Georgia and Alentejo, where two distinct that this technology and its associated wine styles are perfectly and baskets were used for this, but now most wine is pumped traditions have survived: one ancient, qvevri (pronounced suited to chemical-free winemaking in warm or hot climates out electronically. This new approach is faster and gentler, and it kwev-ri); the other, a less ancient refinement of that technology, where refrigeration is not available. also reduces oxidation. talha (pronounced tall-hia). The major difference between these ancient technologies Most reds and some whites are left in qvevri to mature for a The current fashion for making wine in terra-cotta pots is that the Georgians continue to bury their qvevri up to their year or two—or sometimes considerably longer. Last year, for (often mistakenly referred to as amphorae, which are used mouths underground, whereas the Alentejians continue to example, I tasted newly bottled reds and whites at Shavnabada for storage or transport) began just under two decades ago stand their talhas above ground. They both fill their pots from St George Monastery from its 2007 vintage. Both were excellent, with a few early adopters based mainly in Northern Italy. the top, following similar fermentation regimes. Georgians strikingly fresh, and vibrantly fruited, with no hint of oxidation. These pioneers tended to piece together testimony from differ in bucketing their wine out from the bottom up, whereas One age-old Georgian tradition is to seal a qvevri on a child’s Ancient Greek and Roman texts, clarifying these theoretical the Alentejians let gravity drain theirs from the top down. Other birth for his or her wedding day. Legend has it that one father road maps with practical information that was just beginning differences have to do with temperature control, cleaning, was frustrated at not tasting a great vintage specially set aside to filter out of Georgia, where clay-pot (qvevri) winemaking preparation, maturation, skin contact, and, most important, for his son. After delaying marriage for more than 40 years, has continued unchanged to this day. when they drink the newest vintage and how long it lasts. the son did at last marry... and the qvevri opened on his What was slightly out of kilter in this approach was that Acknowledging that there will always have been many wedding day was universally acknowledged as being the best unlike the older Georgian tradition, which buried pots exceptions and variations to general practice, let’s first examine wine anyone had ever drunk. underground, the Roman/Mediterranean tradition made wine the similarities between the two systems. Both traditions Other testimony has reds drinking well at up to 20 years old.

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