The International Review February 2009

Report # 15 The of Classico

Introduction In this Issue Chianti is one of the oldest and most famous brand names in the wine world. With the highly acclaimed 2006 now released to the public, renewed attention is being paid to this historic Introduction ...... 1 wine. However, Chianti’s fame has not always coincided with the Acknowledgements ...... 2 production of high quality wines, and the adoption of the name Chianti by located outside the historical production area in History of Chianti Classico ...... 3 has created confusion for consumers and diluted the value of the brand. The creation of the Chianti Classico Denominazione di Chianti: The Region and the Wine ...... 4 Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) in 1996 was an attempt by growers in the original Chianti region to resurrect the quality of the , the Grape ...... 4 wine by introducing rigorous standards for growing and producing In the ...... 5 Chianti Classico. This effort is now bearing fruit, so to speak, as born out by our tasting notes at the end of this report. The quality in Chianti Classico ...... 6 of Chianti Classico is on the rise with the best yet to come. It is a unique, fruit-driven wine of real character with the acidity and tannic Chianti Classico, the Wine ...... 6 backbone that makes it a food wine par excellence. ...... 7 Given these changes, it’s fair to ask, “What is Chianti Classico Pairing Chianti Classico with Food ...... 8 today?” In this, the 15th report of the International Wine Review, we attempt to answer this question. We start by summarizing The Market for Chianti Classico ...... 10 the long, illustrious, history of winemaking in Chianti. Perhaps in no other region of the world can one fi nd wine estates that have The Tasting Notes ...... 10 produced wine for close to a thousand years. Given the wide, and historically inaccurate, use of the term Chianti and the use of Chianti’s principal grape Sangiovese to produce wine throughout Tuscany, we also locate Chianti Classico in the broader context of Tuscan wines made with Sangiovese. We discuss the unique characteristics of the Sangiovese grape, the improvements which have taken place in Chianti and winemaking, and the pairing of Chianti Classico with traditional Tuscan cuisine. We also So, what is Chianti Classico today? It is not only the original examine the important role of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico in production area for Chianti but, also, the unique and fl avorful bringing about the renaissance of Chianti Classico. No where else Sangiovese-based wine produced by the many talented winemakers in the world have we found a regulatory body that has had such a of this region. Like Bordeaux, Chianti Classico is almost always profound, and positive, impact on a wine. a blend of . Given the variety of micro-climates, soils, and elevations within Chianti, one fi nds wines that are diverse, To help answer the question “What is Chianti Classico today?” we ranging from elegant, red cherry fl avored wines produced from high traveled to Tuscany to become familiar with the , wineries altitude fruit to meaty, smoky riservas with a distinct brambly, black and often colorful winemakers of the region. With the generous fruit character, often made from lower altitude fruit. This range of assistance of the Consorzio, we tasted over 250 wines in America fl avors, combined with the relatively high acidity characteristic of the and in Tuscany over a two month period in late 2008. Extensive Sangiovese grape, means Chianti can be married to a wide variety tasting notes on these wines are given at the end of this report and of foods, showing a special ethereality when paired with Tuscan on our website www.i-winereview.com. dishes. Chianti Classico has defi nite character and personality. 1 Acknowledgements

Several individuals and organizations contributed to this report. We would especially like to thank Silvia Fiorentini, Simone Fabbrini, and Daniel Rosellini, of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. Neil Empson of Neil Empson Imports helped us understand the changes in Chianti Classico over the past two decades. Edoardo Fioravanti provided valuable advice and insight. Numerous winemakers and their staff warmly received us on our visit to Tuscany and were extremely generous with their time and hospitality. Edward M. Korry, MA CWE, Department Chairman, Beverage and Dining Service, Johnson and Wales University, Providence, RI, educated us on pairing Chianti with Tuscan cuisine. Kobrand Corporation kindly allowed us to reproduce the map of Tuscany created by artist Michael Juhn. Also, this report would not have been possible without the full cooperation of the importers and distributors who provided us with wine samples. Finally, we would like to thank the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico for its informative website www.chianticlassico.com.

Michael Potashnik Publisher, International Wine Review

Donald Winkler Editor, International Wine Review

Our Recommendations

We tasted over 250 Chianti Classicos from vintages ranging from 1990 to 2006. Most of these are wonderful wines, but some stand out as exceptional. Here’s our list of highly rated wines—scoring above 90 points.— from currently available vintages. An (*) indicates a wine of not only excellent quality but, also, exceptional value, with a recommended retail price of $35 or less.

Highly Rated

Castello di Monsanto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio...... 94 points Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia...... 93 points Principe Corsini 2005 Chianti Classico Don Tommaso...... 92 points *Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico...... 92 points Le Cinciole 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Petresco...... 92 points Castello di 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Coltassala...... 92 points Tenuta di Riseccoli 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva...... 92 points Castello di 2005 Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli...... 92 points *Castello D’Albola 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva...... 91 points Barone Ricasoli 2004 Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio...... 91 points *Brancaia 2006 Chianti Classico...... 91 points Capannelle 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva...... 91 points Castello di Meleto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Casi...... 91 points Castello di Monsanto 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio...... 91 points Castello di Querceto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Picchio...... 91 points *Fontodi 2005 Chianti Classico...... 91 points *Querciabella 2006 Chianti Classico...... 91 points Rocca di 2004 Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino...... 91 points

 History of Chianti Classico Important Dates in Chianti Classico

Riddle # 1: When is Chianti not Chianti? Year Action Answer: When it’s Chianti Classico. 1398 First recorded written reference to Chianti wine It’s impossible to defi ne Chianti Classico without making reference to its history. The name Chianti dates from the 14th century when 1716 Grand Duke Cosimo III establishes original Chianti zone it was fi rst used to refer to wine produced in the region located between the Pesa and rivers and including the communes of 1874 Barone proposes Chianti formula, including white grapes Radda, Castellina and Gaiole. In 1716, the Grand Duke Cosimo III issued his famous decree formally creating a slightly enlarged Chianti 1924 Creation of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico region including the Greve commune. This region is very similar in shape and size to today’s Chianti Classico. 1932 Ministerial decree establishes Chianti production zone, including Chianti Classico—the original Chianti zone The next important date in 1967 Chianti DOC created & Barone Ricasoli’s formula made law Chianti’s history is 1932. The fame of Chianti wine 1984 Chianti (and Chianti Classico) granted DOCG status and had led to growers in other new rules introduced to raise quality regions of Tuscany labeling their wine as “Chianti”. This 1987 Chianti Classico 2000 Project initiated under Carlos Ferrini practice was formalized 1996 Chianti Classico granted its own DOCG status and stringent in 1932 with a ministerial rules adopted to improve quality. decree enlarging Chianti to include seven distinct 2006 White grapes no longer allowed in Chianti Classico blend zones of production. One of those zones was Chianti Classico, and growers in this region were allowed to label their wine as such. The Legend of the Black Rooster However, Chianti Classico represented only about 10 The historic symbol of Chianti Classico is a black Cosimo III de Medici by van Douven percent of the total Chianti rooster (Gallo Nero) on a gold fi eld. Legend tells wine-growing area, and for the story of how a black rooster contributed to the the consumer there was little or no distinction. This situation was not unifi cation of Chianti under the Republic of . improved when in 1967 Chianti was granted DOC status; Chianti and became the symbol of the League of Chianti. Classico was bound by the same rules as other geographic areas According to the legend, when the republics of within Chianti, again leading to little distinction between Chianti Florence and were engaged in bitter struggles and Chianti Classico. Castello di Ama and Felsina, among other during the , the Chianti zone was the scene of constant producers, chafed at these rules and began marketing their wines as confl ict. To put an end to the fi ghting and establish borders between the Vino da Tavola instead of Chianti. two republics, they agreed to the following solution. A rider would depart from the capital of each of the two republics, and the border would be drawn where the two horsemen met. The riders were to set out at dawn, This situation fi nally changed in 1996 when Chianti Classico was and the signal for the race to begin would be the crowing of a rooster granted its own DOCG. This fi nally allowed Chianti Classico to announcing the new day. The Sienese opted for a white rooster, while the establish rules and regulations distinct from the rest of Chianti. These Florentines chose a black one. On the day of the race the black rooster include a maximum yield of 7.5 tons per hectare, the lowest of all crowed before day light which gave the Florentine rider a great advantage DOCGs in ; a maximum yield per vine of 3 kilos; a minimum over the Sienese horseman who departed much later. As a consequence, content of 80% Sangiovese; and prohibition of white grapes like nearly all of Chianti passed into the hands of the Florentine Republic long and , beginning with the 2006 vintage. The before Siena itself fell to the Florentines. The Black Rooster later became change in rules also permitted producers like Castello di Ama and the symbol of the League of Chianti, which was assigned administrative Felsina to again market their wines as Chianti Classico. and military defense duties within the Republic of Florence. Today, the Black Rooster on a bottle of wine indicates that it is a Chianti Classico Critical to the evolution of Chianti Classico is the Consorzio Vino produced according to the rules and regulations of the DOCG. Chianti Classico. The Consorzio was created in 1924 when 33 producers formed an association to protect Chianti wine and its trademark of origin. They chose as their trademark the Gallo Nero, to use the adjective “Classico”, meaning the fi rst or original Chianti. or Black Rooster, the historic symbol of the ancient Chianti Military The Consorzio continued lobbying for its own DOCG, which was League. By the end of 1924 the association had 189 members. The granted in 1996. Finally, in 2003, the Consorzio was given association began lobbying to gain recognition of Chianti Classico regulatory control over all wineries in the regions whether members as being unique and different from other wine-growing regions of of the Consorzio or not. Today the Consorzio has more than 600 Tuscany. Its fi rst success was in 1932 when the ministerial decree members, representing 95% of producers in the region, and Chianti establishing Chianti allowed the traditional Chianti growing region Classico has rules and regulations distinct from the rest of Chianti.

3 Chianti: The Region and the Wine. to do so. So what’s the difference between an IGT and a Chianti Classico? In some cases, not much, yet many Sangiovese-based IGTs continue to command prices that are multiples of those of good . Riddle # 2: When is wine grown in Chianti Classico not Chianti Classico? In short, Chianti Classico is unique, and it’s an exceptional food Answer: When it’s a Tuscan IGT. wine. But for many consumers it is still a puzzle. Hopefully, the impressive marketing efforts of the Consorzio are yielding fruit, so It’s not only the distinction between Chianti and Chianti Classico to speak, and creating a clearer commercial identity for Chianti that is confusing to the consumer. So, too, is the fact that Chianti Classico. Classico is just one of many Sangiovese based wines grown in Tuscany. Historically, or at least since Barone Bettino Ricasoli proposed including Malvasia in the Chianti blend in the Sangiovese, the Grape. 19th century, Chianti included white grapes in its blend. This was codifi ed in law in 1967 when Chianti was granted DOC status Sangiovese is the core of the Chianti with the accompanying regulation that Chianti be produced using Classico blend. It is widely planted Barone Ricasoli’s original formula of 50 to 80% Sangiovese, 10 to throughout Central Italy and is also used 30% Nero, and 10 to 30% Trebbiano and Malvasia. This in the production of other classic Tuscan regulation had almost disastrous consequences for Chianti as many wines such as Brunello di , producers employed the maximum permissible amount of the highly Vino Nobile de , and productive Trebbiano grape, leading to lower quality, lower prices, the vast majority of super Tuscans. It and an almost fatal blow to Chianti’s reputation. appears to have originated in Tuscany many centuries ago; its ancestors are Chianti, of course, did survive and with the prohibition of white ancient grape varieties that are today grapes in the blend effective with the current 2006 vintage, Chianti almost extinct. In each of the three main zones where it is grown, Classico can now have up to 100% Sangiovese grapes, making Sangiovese takes on different characteristics refl ecting climate, it similar to the wines of Montalcino and Montepulciano, and soil, and other growing conditions. In Montalcino it is known as can include or in the blend, similar Sangiovese Grosso, whereas in Montepulciano it is traditionally to the wines of Carmignano. In addition, one can fi nd blends of called Prugnolo Gentile. In Chianti Classico, it has traditionally been Sangiovese from Chianti Classico and from the on the called Sangiovetto. Tuscan coast (e.g., Terrabianca’s Campaccio), but these cannot carry the label “Chianti Classico”. Although Sangiovese thrives in Tuscany, it is a temperamental grape and is not easy to cultivate. While the grape adapts well to a variety These other wines are different from Chianti Classico both in of soils, it is slow to mature and ripens late, increasing the risk of and winemaking. In fact, it is Chianti Classico’s terroir and autumn rain. It generally needs at least 60 days after to winemaking that make it unique today. The Tuscan hills and the ripen satisfactorily, and quite often growers are unable to achieve varied soils of Chianti Classico produce a range of fl avors, as well as uniform ripeness. acidity and tannins, that traditionally have been blended to yield a harmonious and balanced wine. There are single vineyard Chiantis, By nature, Sangiovese is relatively thin-skinned and produces light but they are rare. This blending of grapes from different , as colored wine, due to a lack of anthocyanins, the coloring matter in well as from different varietals—Sangiovese and , especially- grapes. It also is fruity, yet high in acidity and has hard tannins. -is an important part of the answer to the question, “What makes When Sangiovese lacks central-palate richness, winemakers often Chianti Classico different?” The relatively modest treatment of round out their Chianti Classico by blending Sangiovese with most Chianti offers another answer to this question. Riservas spend other native grapes such as Canaiolo Nero or Colorino, or with at least a year in barrel or botte (large neutral chestnut barrels), but international varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. unlike many other Sangiovese based Tuscan wines they are rarely Canaiolo is generally used to soften and add fl oral aromas to the given the full throttled dark toast, new French barrique treatment. In wine while Colorino is used to add color. Merlot generally helps short, Chianti Classico lets the fruit shine through, as opposed to reduce high acidity, adds color, and contributes a blue fruit note to being yet another expensively oaked, international styled wine that the fl avor profi le of the wines. Cabernet Sauvignon contributes black could have been produced almost anywhere. currant aromas and fl avors and often softens hard tannins.

But, as the riddle suggests, there is yet another part to the Chianti In recent decades considerable attention has been given to Classico puzzle. Two decades ago when the old rules forbidding identifying clonal material and agricultural practices to improve the 100% Sangiovese and requiring white grapes were in effect, some performance of Sangiovese and other indigenous grapes. Under of Chianti’s better producers started making Sangiovese based wines the Chianti Classico 2000 project researchers identifi ed seven high that did not meet the regulations and began marketing them under performing Sangiovese clones distinctive for their cluster shape, the moniker vino da tavola and, later, Indicazione de Geografi ca resistance to unfavorable weather, and favorable polyphenolic Tipica (IGT). A number of these IGTs—Fontalloro, Percarlo, Le characteristics. A small group of private wine growers such as Pergole Torte, etc.--received critical acclaim, which only served to Felsina, using massal selection, have also identifi ed other high further enhance their reputation, and price, vis a vis Chianti Classico. performing types of Sangiovese from their own vineyards which adds Today, under the new regulations some of these same Sangiovese- to the improved stock of Sangiovese available for planting. Others based IGTs could be marketed as Chianti Classico with a Gallo Nero researchers and growers are working with Canaiolo, Colorino, on the label, yet for marketing reasons most producers choose not and long forgotten varieties such as Foglia Tonda or Pugnitello to

4 enrich the mix of grape varieties for blending with Sangiovese. For produced fruit of dubious quality. This was refl ected in the quality of example, drawing upon research at the University of Florence, Marco the wine and adversely affected the reputation of Chianti Classico. Ricasoli Findolfi of Rocca di Montegrossi has begun adding 5% As noted earlier, the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico initiated the Pungitello to his Sangiovese Riserva San Marcellino. Considerable Chianti Classico 2000 Project under the guidance of Carlo Ferrini, progress has also been made in recent years in replanting the to identify the best rootstocks, the most appropriate planting density, vineyards of Chianti Classico with these new cuttings and clones, the best soil management, and the highest quality Sangiovese clones. with very promising results. The characteristic being sought in high quality grapes included thicker skins, higher anthocyanins and sparser grape bunches (Sangiovese grows in very tight bunches which prevents light from In the Vineyard entering and ripening all grapes evenly). As a result of this research, seven clones of Sangiovese and one of Colorino were recommended Due to the topography of the Chianti region, the vines of Chianti for replanting the vineyards of Chianti. Classico grow in a wide variety of micro-climates, altitudes, and soils. Altitudes range from 200 to about 800 meters, and soils range Vineyard replanting. About the same time the Consorzio from sandstone, clay and sedimentary rock in the low altitudes to initiated its efforts to raise quality, many of the wineries of Chianti clay and limestone in the middle altitudes and rocky, calcareous soil Classico began extensive efforts to replant their vineyards. Over in the higher altitudes. In general, soils are shallow and stony, and the last decade half the vineyards of Chianti Classico have been slopes are steep. The climate and topography of Chianti provide the replanted at a cost of €260 million. Most of the replanting was potential to produce high quality fruit. and is being done by wineries like Felsina making their own clonal experiments via massal selection and purchasing high quality clones The average wine estate in Chianti is just 8.5 hectares in size, and on from commercial nurseries, but the clones identifi ed by the Consorzio average 40% of vineyard acreage was planted before 1980. Over are increasingly being commercialized and used in replanting. half of all plantings have fewer than 3750 plants per hectare, although Almost all the vineyards we visited in Chianti were well along in their newer plantings have signifi cantly higher density than older plantings. efforts to rip out the overly productive, low quality vines planted in Sangiovese is by far the most popular planted, representing the 1960s and 1970s and replace them with densely planted, new 78% of total plantings. The second most popular grape is Merlot with higher quality clones. Instead of vineyards with 2000 vines per 7% of plantings, and third most popular is Cabernet Sauvignon with hectare, producing 4-5 kilos of grapes per plant, these new vineyard 4% of plantings. Among traditional varietals, Canaiolo Nero has plantings increased the number to 5,000 or more vines, and reduced under 3% of plantings, and Colorino has under 1%. grapes per plant to only 1-2 kilos. Fattoria Viticcio, for example, currently plants 6,500 vines per hectare with yields of about 1 kilo The making of Chianti Classico is undergoing a quality revolution per plant. Since the year 2000, the average planting density is over that will enable the region to realize its potential to be ranked 4900 vines per hectare, compared to a planting density of 3000 among the top quality wine growing regions of the world. A very vines per hectare in the decade of the 1970s. Both large and small important part of this revolution is taking place in the vineyard. This wine estates undertook massive vineyard replanting, including large revolution has three major battlefronts. The fi rst is to improve the vine estates like Badia a Coltibuono, Fonterutoli, and Castello di Brolio itself through clonal research and careful selection of the best vines and smaller estates such as Fontodi and Isole e Olena. Many of for reproduction. The second is to replant the vineyards of Chianti these vineyards are only now producing their fi rst grape harvests. using the best clones and planting with greater density. And the third is to adopt natural viticultural practices that are environmentally Sustainable vineyard practices. The third battlefront in the war sustainable while simultaneously improving fruit quality. to raise quality is the adoption of organic and biodynamic methods in the vineyard. Numerous vineyards, including Le Cinciole, Renzo Clonal research. Just prior to the turn of the millennium most of Marinai, and Fattoria Viticcio have adopted such environmentally Chianti’s vineyards were comprised of highly productive vines that sound practices. This includes planting grass and legumes between

Roberto Guldener: Philosopher of Wine

“The secret of a great wine lies in its balance A harmony that starts with the balance of the vine itself The starting point of the work in the vineyard is the art of pruning It takes skill, discipline and passion A work of great responsibility Where the rules of Nature must be accepted Respecting Nature’s rules leads to harmony and balance”

“A wine that travels has to say something”

“Wine is a language that carries the culture of a country.”

5 the rows of vines, both to control erosion on steep hillsides and fermentation temperatures, relying instead on natural cooling winds to enrich the soil naturally without the use of artifi cial fertilizers. coming off the mountains. Querciabella, for example, plants a mix of 40 different seeds in the rows between the vines after and then plows under Because of Sangiovese’s thin skin, many winemakers prefer the the resulting vegetation in the spring. The fact that most Chianti more gentle pigeage technique (pushing down) of cap management vineyards are separated by woodlands, olive groves, and pastures rather than pump-overs. However, pump overs are used and done contributes to a rich, diverse environment in the vineyard. twice daily in some wineries. Winemakers also use small tanks for fermenting small quantities of grapes separately. Castello di Fonterutoli, for example, has 74 separate fermenters to ferment grapes Winemaking in Chianti Classico from individual parcels. Querciabella vinifi es 120 lots separately.

In the past several decades winemakers in Tuscany have adopted Blending. The better wineries ferment grapes from each of their new and improved winemaking practices to match the improvements vineyard parcels separately and produce the assemblage or fi nal introduced in the vineyards. These new practices were disseminated blend near the end of the process. The goal is to gain added color, through the education and training of young enologists at Italy’s fl avor and complexity in the wine. Wineries with vineyards or top schools of enology and by prominent Tuscan enologists such parcels at different altitudes will vinify the fruit separately and later as , Carlos Ferrini, Ricardo Cotarella and Franco blend cool climate high altitude, high acid grapes with those from Barnabei who advised their clients on making high quality wines for warmer sites. In blending Chianti Classico, winemakers also avoid international markets. the over use of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot which can easily dominate the delicate aromas and fl avors of Sangiovese. Blending In today’s wineries of Chianti Classico out-of-date practices have is often carried out in tanks or large Slavonian oak 40 hl barrels been replaced with new and modern approaches involving greater (tinos) and transferred to smaller oak barrels for aging. care and attention to detail in the handling of fruit, managing fermentation, blending, and aging of wines in barrel. Heavy Oak aging . The top producers in Chianti Classico use oak handed interventions of the past have been replaced by restraint carefully to round out wines and give them texture. Having which means avoiding undue manipulation of the wine, judicious use attempted to make wines in the image of Bordeaux in the late 20th of oak, using gravity to move the liquid, and reducing to the century, they found Sangiovese was often submerged under toast minimum necessary to maintain freshness of the wine. Summarizing and vanilla. Today they limit their use of new oak to allow for the full these approaches, Marco Ricasoli Findolfi of Rocca di Montegrossi expression of Sangiovese. Many winemakers use a combination of has noted “In the cellar you can never improve the quality of the small barrels and large tonneaux and a relatively small proportion of wines, just make it worse. The grape already has everything in it, new oak for aging their wine. Although the production regulations and all the technology we have these days in just needed to preserve for Chianti Classico require a minimum of 7 months of aging in oak it. I believe in letting the terroir speak for the wine.” barrels starting in October 1 of the vintage, many producers age their wines for 9 to 12 months in barrel followed by 6 months in Some of the specifi c practices and techniques being employed to bottle . For riservas, the minimum time for aging is 24 months, of make quality wines are as follows: which at least 3 are required to be spent in bottle. Most producers age riservas for at least 18 months in barrel and 6 months in bottle Harvesting and Fruit Sorting. Harvesting grapes when ripe before release. is key. This includes careful sorting and selection of grapes in the vineyards over the course of the growing season with green harvesting done in late summer and fi nal fruit selection at harvest Chianti Classico, The Wine times. Merlot, an early ripening grape, is usually picked fi rst, while Sangiovese, a late ripening grape, is picked last. While some The regulations of the Chianti Classico DOCG concerning viticulture, wineries have sorting tables, it is much more common in Chianti winemaking, and the blend of grapes effectively set the core traits Classico for fruit to be sorted in the fi eld and brought to the of the wine. These traits include bright fl avors of Morello cherry in separate containers where it is de-stemmed and readied for and plum with earth and bramble notes, relatively high acidity, fermentation. moderate alcohol levels, medium weight, a dry mid-palate, and light to moderate tannic grip on the fi nish. These characteristics make Cold Soak. Pre-fermentation is widely used by Chianti Classico a food wine fi rst and foremost. winemakers to increase Sangiovese’s aroma, color and color stability. This process involves juice and skin contact of one to four However, the region Chianti Classico covers a number of communes, days at cold temperatures with punch downs to increase extraction vineyards of widely varying altitudes and soil types, diverse clones of color from the skins. Crushing of the grapes often helps achieve that the Consorzio research has shown affects fl avors and textures, maximum extraction. If done successfully, cold soaking produces growers who make decisions about planting density and trellising, Chianti Classicos that have a brighter color, fruity notes and added and winemakers who vary in their approaches to making wine, complexity. including harvesting, sorting of fruit, maceration, aging in oak, and blending of different varietals and of Sangiovese from different Fermentation. Most producers ferment their wines over a parcels and sites. Altogether, these variables produce many period of 15 to 20 days at around 28-32 C (82-89 F). They use expressions of Chianti Classico. a combination of inox steel and cement tanks. Since the mid-90s winemakers have been using open steel tanks or open top 500 Each variable contributes to the fl avors and textures of Chianti liter tonneaux for fermentation with temperature control to preserve Classico. High altitude fruit, for example, appears to produce lighter, aromas. Terrabianca even avoids the use of water jackets to control more elegant wines of higher acidity, while low altitude fruit produces

6 Wine by the Glass in Florence

Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina, located across from the Museo Pitti and just a few blocks from the Ponte Vecchio, is an informal and inviting wine bar offering a varied and interesting selection of Tuscan and other Italian wines. Owner Edoardo Fioravanti is especially knowledgeable about Tuscan wines and is generous in sharing this knowledge with his clientele. This is a good place to try Chianti Classico by the glass from producers like Monteraponi, Renzo Marinai, Felsina, Montegrossi, Le Cinciole, and Castello di Ama. Edoardo can also recommend a selection of cheeses from the Fattoria di Corzano e Paterno and Tonno del Chianti from Dario Cecchni’s butcher shop in Panzano. Tell Edoardo or his co-owner Manuele you read about this wine bar in the International Wine Review and you’ll receive special treatment. Pitti Owners Manuele Giovanelli and Edoardo Fioravanti

denser, darker wines with fi rmer tannins. But given the multitude of and excellent balance. These silky and elegant traits variables affecting the wine and the varied expressions that result, it’s are usually characteristic of the wines sourced from ripe diffi cult to provide a typology of Chianti Classico, aside from the one grapes of high altitude vineyards. Morello cherry is that’s most obvious to the consumer—regular (normale) versus reserve the fl avor most often associated with Chianti Classico. (riserva) bottlings. Morellos are distinguished by their dark mahogany skin color, fl esh and juice. In contrast to sweet cherries, Regular bottlings (normales) of Chianti Classico are on they are sour tasting with rich, complex fl avors and are average lighter, with fresh fruit and only a modicum of oak commonly used to produce preserves or dried cherries. aromas and fl avors. Their style calls for early consumption, usually at two to four years of age. Compared to the • Tannins. The fi nishes on Chianti Classicos can be silky normales, riservas are darker, heavier, and tightly structured smooth and long lasting, but they can also be dry, tart with more complex bouquets and fl avors, in part due to the and even astringent, due to unripe fruit or poor tannin fact that riservas have not traditionally included white grapes management. Alcohol levels in Chianti Classico are in their blend. They are best consumed between fi ve and ten generally kept within reasonable levels (13-14%), but years from the time of vintage. some big wines in warm vintages can reach 14.5%.

Our tasting of a large number of Chianti Classicos from numerous wineries that source their fruit from diverse parts of the Chianti Vintages region allows us to draw some tentative conclusions about the styles of Chianti Classico as refl ected in color, aroma, fl avors, and tannic While the Chianti region does not suffer from the temperature structure: extremes of colder climes, it does nonetheless experience year-to-year climate changes that can signifi cantly affect both the quantity and • Color. Chianti Classicos are medium to dark ruby in quality of wines produced in the region. The table below provides a color and frequently garnet or orange at the rim after a brief description of the vintages since the year 2000. In reading this few years of aging. Some wines are black and opaque table, it’s important to remember that good winemakers often make in color, in particular, those of estates in the warmer micro very good wines even in challenging vintages. During our travels in climate of the southeastern corner of the Chianti Classico Tuscany, we were able to taste verticals of several wines, including area (e.g., Castello di Bossi or Felsina) the Principe Corsini Don Tommaso Chianti Classico Riserva, the Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva, the Felsina • Aroma: The scents of Chianti Classico are akin to dried Berardenga Fontalloro IGT, the Terrabianca Campaccio Riserva, and dark cherry and plum fruit, but can also give hints of fresh the Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva. While strawberry and raspberry fruit when sourced from cool it was too early to taste the 2006 vintages of these particular wines, climate vineyards. (e.g., Querciabella’s Chianti Classico) the 2006 Chianti Classicos suggest this vintage may be on a par Riservas often also reveal sottobosco aromas of leather, with 2001. Our barrel and tank tastings suggest the most recent two forest fl oor, cigar box and savory herbal notes but can vintages—2007 and 2008—will also be at least very good. also be enchantingly fl oral (violets).

• Flavor: On the palate, Chianti Classicos are light to medium weight and show marked acidity, light to concentrated red and black fruit fl avors , and usually well integrated oak notes. Some wines are rustic, while others are generous and fruit forward with silky textures

7 Year The Climate The Vintage

2008 Heavy rains in May create mold problems for some growers. Hot, dry summer followed by some very hot Very Good weather in September and an early harvest. Not quite as good a vintage as 2007.

2007 A warm winter and spring leading to early budbreak, followed by a warm summer with adequate rainfall Very Good to and an early and relatively small harvest. Excellent

2006 An almost perfect growing season with moderate heat, adequate rainfall and superb growing conditions in Excellent the month prior to harvest. For some growers, 2006 approaches 2001 in terms of quality. Non-riservas will drink well in 2009-2010. The Riservas are not yet released.

2005 Rain at the end of September during the normal Sangiovese harvest created problems for some growers, Very Good requiring careful selection of grapes and resulting in some variability in quality. Wines will improve with more bottle age. Riservas released in second half of 2008.

2004 Almost optimal growing conditions disrupted only by rain towards the end of the harvest resulted in a Very Good “classic” Chianti Classico. Wines will continue to improve.

2003 A late spring frost reduced yields, while a torrid summer led to early ripening and an early harvest. Wines Good are soft and sweet, showing very ripe fruit and sometimes lacking their typical depth. Delicious now.

2002 A rather wet summer was followed by alternating rain and heat during harvest. Wines are dilute in general, Poor but wineries that did aggressive cluster thinning, leaf removal, and grape selection were able to produce some very enjoyable, if light, wines.

2001 High summer temperatures gave way to cooling rains prior to harvest. Most wines are now near their peak. Excellent

2000 A hot summer followed by early ripening and harvest. Wines are somewhat jammy and past their prime. Very Good

and game. When in Tuscany and referring to the cuisine of Pairing Chianti Classico with Food northern Italy or France, one is told it is a ‘cucina assassinata’ or assassinated cuisine that is contrived and hides the The special affi nity of and food produces some freshness and natural fl avors of the fruit of the land. When of the most memorable gastronomic experiences one can beans, olive oil, fresh tomatoes, herbs, mushroom, have. When the pairing of Chianti wine and Tuscan food are used in dishes, they form ‘bridges’ to the wines, so if they is done with care, neither dominates and each accentuates are included in non-Tuscan dishes you can rest assured that the other’s positive attributes. While Chianti Classico has Chianti wines are more likely to successfully pair with them. improved signifi cantly over the past three decades, the wines of Chianti have always been supportive of the traditional Antipasti. Typical antipasti include crostini () which dishes from this beautiful region. have been considered hors d’oeuvres since the 16th century. The tomato’s acidity, the Tuscan bread, the herbaceousness of The Wine. Why are Chiantis such good food wines? basil and umami of cheese all are balanced and enhanced There are several reasons: They generally have good but not by the wine. If beans are used their delicate sweetness overbearing acidity that enlivens food fl avors on the palate. and earthy notes are miraculously revealed, especially in The fl avors are balanced and none too assertive, thereby earthier medium bodied wines. Another antipasti, Trippa alla not competing with food fl avors. The alcohol level is usually fi orentina, which is sometimes served with calves feet and moderate, thereby not overwhelming the palate with dullness cannelli beans would call for a more intense Chianti. or sweetness and maintaining a balance of tastes. The tannic structure is moderate to light for the most part and does Primi Piatti. There are a large number of dishes from all over not overwhelm the palate in its demand for compensating Tuscany that can be described as a Primo Piatto such as a fattiness. There is no overbearing oakiness with sweet or Frittata or Torte di Pomodoro which would be well paired with tannic notes to compete with food balance. And fi nally, there Chianti of moderately high acidity, silky tannins and delicate is no residual sweetness so the wine plays as a perfect foil to to moderate intensity. natural ripeness and sweetness in food. • Zuppa. Zuppas such as Ribollito are by defi nition The Food. Tuscan food has ancient roots in agricultural not just soups like Maremmana but a traditions that highlight the natural fl avors of vegetables, vegetable minestra leftover from a previous day yeastiness of bread, beans (Tuscans are bean eaters, and layered with day old bread and reboiled. especially fava and cannelli beans), , tomatoes, olive These can be rib-sticking, and the earthiness of the oils, olives, mushrooms, fresh fi sh, free-range poultry, meats beans mixed with winter vegetables (carrots, celery,

8 onions) and served with a little grated cheese and Piatti Secondi or Main Courses. olive oil can be paired with many Chiantis. Another related zuppa is Minestra ai Fagioli del Valdarosa • Shellfi sh such as shrimp in the dish Spiedini di which could also be paired with a light Chianti Gamberi in Salsa (shrimp on skewers with thyme which would be revealed as even more refreshing. sauce) or shrimp with tomato based sauces are Zuppa di Telline, which is a clam dish made with perfect with a light style normale. fresh tomato sauce, calls for a light-bodied Chianti normale. • Chicken. A Gallo alla Salvia ed Aglio (rooster with a Sage-Garlic Sauce) or chicken that is grilled • Pasta. Also regarded as a primo piatto, these or cooked in clay, Pollo al Mattone, would pair are traditionally fresh pasta, although dried pasta wonderfully with a medium Chianti. dishes of course exist. The most traditional pasta is called Pici or Pinci which is a hand made pasta • Veal. Veal dishes such as Involtini di Carciofi , with little but fl our and water and considerable which is veal stuffed with artichokes, can be kneading and manual rolling out. The pasta is accompanied by nothing more intense than a accompanied by vegetable sauces, fresh tomato medium Chianti. Because of their cynarine, sauces or, in the winter months, heavy meat sauces artichokes are diffi cult unless balanced by lemon, calling for full-bodied Chianti riserva. Pezze meat stock or butter and cheese, which this dish della Nonna are stuffed fresh pasta squares fi lled has. amore alcoholic or tannic wines would have with spinach and ricotta fi lling and served with a those characteristics intensifi ed by artichokes. A fresh tomato sauce, which calls for a light-bodied Stracotto di Vitella alla Fornarina or roasted veal normale. A Tortelli di Magro alla Vicchiese from shank on the other hand can be paired best by a Mugello is richer because of the inclusion of dark, full-bodied Chianti riserva as the dish has Parmigiano cheese and a meat broth reduced greater intensity. sauce, thus calling for a medium-bodied Chianti. • Beef. The dish Bistecca alla Fiorentina is world reknown for its simplicity and refl ection of Tuscan epicurean philosophy. The beef should be from the white steers of Vadichiana. The cut of the steaks should be no less than 3 inches and it should be grilled without the use of oil or butter. The sprinkling of sea salt on the steak and directly onto the fi re can add to a touch of smokiness. Such a dish, served with a spritz of lemon and top quality estate olive oil, can be enhanced by a dark, full- bodied riserva, as would other rich dishes such as Cinghiale in Umido, or wild boar. (Wild boar may be a pest in the vineyards, but it makes a delicious stew.)

Organic Winemaker Renzo Marinai Pairing Tuscan Pasta with his 2006 Chianti Classico

Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

Most wine estates in Chianti Classico also produce , the heavenly, golden sweet wine produced from dried Trebbiano, Malvasia and Sangiovese or Canaiolo and aged for three to ten years in chestnut, oak, and cherry wood barrels. Traditionally, Vin Santo is served with cantucci (small almond or hazelnut cookies) at the end of the meal. During our Tuscany trip we had the opportunity to taste a number of Vin Santos. A few of our favorites illustrate the wide variety of aromas and fl avors found in Vin Santo: Barone Ricasoli 2003 Vin Santo, predominantly Malvasia with a touch of Sangiovese with delightful aromas of dried apricot and orange marmalade and fl avors of apricot and butterscotch; Castello di Cacchiano 2000 Vin Santo, containing 15% Canaiolo with rich caramel and crème brulee aromas and fl avors of toasted almond and rich butterscotch; Castello di Cacchiano 2001 Vin Santo, an usual mahogany colored wine with 30% Canaiolo and aromas of Oloroso and orange zest and fl avors of coffee liqueur and brown ; Castello di Volpaia 2000 Vin Santo, a light amber colored blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia Grapes Drying with aromas of toffee and apricots and fl avors of rum-soaked raisins; and Felsina 1999 Vin Santo del for Vin Santo Chianti Classico, with aromas of orange zest and dried apricots and smoky Scotch whiskey fl avors.

9 • Contorni or vegetable dishes are traditionally served separately from the entrée and one should be cautious about serving dark riservas or even medium Chiantis unless accompanied by lemon or acid based sauces. Tasting Notes and Ratings • Cheeses. Many cheeses can be well paired with Chiantis, and the more aged the cheese the more structured More than 250 wines were tasted for this report. We normally taste the wine can be. Tuscany is best known for its Pecorino wines blind under controlled conditions. However, for this report we (sheep’s) cheese which is served as fresh ricotta all the way also tasted a number of wines at wineries in Tuscany where this was to hard aged cheese, which still retains its natural sweetness. not possible. In addition to Chianti Classicos and Chianti Classico Desserts on the other hand cannot be paired with Chiantis as Riservas, we tasted IGT Toscana, Vin Santo, and wines from the the key is for the wine to be sweeter than the dessert. One Maremma. The latter are not included here and will be reviewed can always reach out for a Vin Santo (see box) or another separately. Passito wine from the area to satisfy that need. So the next time you are preparing a simple dish that has the natural The i-WineReview rates wines using the 100 point system. We do tastes and fl avors of foods that bridge them to Tuscan cuisine, not write–up wines which receive a rating of below 85 points. The pour yourself a Chianti and fi nd yourself in that beautiful ratings are as follows: landscape, even if only fi guratively.

95-100 A wine of distinction 90-94 A wine of outstanding or superior quality The Market for Chianti Classico 85-89 A wine of good to excellent quality 84 and below Not recommended Sales of Chianti Classico in 2007 are estimated at €270 million on total production of 280 thousand hectoliters (hl.). The US is the Reviews which appear in the report can also be found in our Tasting single largest consumer of Chianti Classico, at 30% of total sales, Notes Archive on www.i-winereview.com If you are a subscriber, even larger than Italy’s 27% share of total sales. The US share has you may use the i-WineReview Search to fi nd all reviews of increased from 23% of total sales in 1997 despite the 25% drop individual producers and their wines. in the value of the dollar relative to the Euro over the 1997-2007 decade. For some wineries, the export market is considerably more All of the wines reviewed here, with a couple of exceptions, are important than the domestic, Italian market. Felsina, for example, currently sold or will soon be sold in the U. S.. We report prices sells 30 percent of its production in Italy but 40% in the U.S. And and importers when known. $NA indicates prices are unavailable. Castello de Querceto exports 92% of its production. Some wines are unfortunately, in very short supply and readers will have diffi culty fi nding them. The i-WineReview is more than Chianti Classico is costly to produce, about €5 per bottle,. The fact happy to advise readers where they might get hold of certain wines that it is grown on relative small hillside plots that require labor- reviewed in the report. Obviously, the web is a great place to start intensive cultivation and harvesting contributes to its costs. Add a search, if local wine shops don’t have them. We also encourage international transportation, duties, and the margins due importers, readers to check with our Recommended Retailers throughout the distributors, and retailers in the U.S., and even Chianti Classico country listed on www.i-winereview.com. normale has priced itself out of competition with the entry level imports from Australia, Argentina, and Chile. Also contributing to costs is the limit the DOCG has imposed on Chianti Classico plantings. The per hectare price of the right to plant Chianti Classico is €40-50 thousand today. This compares with about €15 thousand per hectare for planting rights in the larger Chianti region and €10- 12 thousand per hectare within Chianti Classico for the right to plant IGT.

Working in Chianti Classico’s favor is the change in consumer tastes, especially in the US, away from heavily oaked fruit bombs and towards wines of elegance and terroir. Also working in Chianti Classico’s favor is the diminishing cache of the Super Tuscan IGT. Since the rules and regulations governing IGTs are almost nonexistent, today one can fi nd as many inexpensive, low quality IGTs as expensive prestige bottlings. Consumers are beginning to fi nd that the moniker IGT says little about quality, at the same time that Chianti Classico and the Gallo Nero increasingly indicate a high minimum quality level.

10 Badia a Coltibuono 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 90 Barone Ricasoli 2004 Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio It is hard to beat the wines of Roberto Stucchi. This Chianti Classico Tuscany ($55) 91 is a medium light ruby gem that offers aromas of dried cherry fruit This fl agship wine is predominantly Sangiovese with small amounts and earthy notes on the nose and on the palate. Delicate and well- of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot aged 18 months in barriques structured, the wine offers a medium weight palate, excellent acidity and two years in bottle. It’s deep dark ruby in color with effusive and a lingering fi nish. Importer: Dalla Terra Winery Direct Napa, CA aromas of very ripe black fruit, tar, and tobacco and attacks softly with sweet black fruit, dark olives, and wet earth fl avors. This is a Badia a Coltibuono 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany well-balanced wine with a layered palate and a nice long, fl avorful ($27) 89 fi nish. Impressive! The 2005 Riserva displays a medium dark ruby color with a garnet rim and has black fruit aromas with a touch of vanilla. On the Barone Ricasoli 2003 Chianti Classico Brolio Tuscany medium-bodied palate, it is dry and tart with excellent acidity and ($24) 90 gripping tannins. It is produced from restricted yields of estate-grown The Chianti Classico Brolio is opaque ruby with a complex nose of fruit with 25 to 50 year-old vines. Importer: Dalla Terra Winery violets, cedar and underlying dark currant fruit. It is soft on the attack Direct, Napa, CA and offers ripe, black fruit with bitter chocolate notes and a full round mouth feel. Nicely structured with excellent balance and layered Banfi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($16) 89 fl avors. The fi nish is long with mature tannins. The Banfi 2006 Chianti Classico is predominately Sangiovese with small amounts of Canaiolo Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium Barone Ricasoli 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Rocca dark ruby in color, it offers fresh dark fruit aromas of boysenberry Guicciarda Tuscany ($24) 88 and blackberry and a palate of fl avorful ripe fruit. It also exhibits Made from 50% estate and 50% purchased grapes aged 16 months excellent balance and structure and a persistent fi nish. A lovely wine in oak. It’s dark ruby in color with aromas of earth and leather and a offered at a great price. Importer: Banfi Old Brookville, NY gamey note. On the palate, it shows quite traditional, earthy fl avors and a nice long, ripe fi nish of jammy plum fruit and gentle tannins. Banfi 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($21) 90 Medium ruby to the rim. Aromas of pure cherry fruit and plum Barone Ricasoli 2007 Torricella Tuscany ($25) 89 followed by a lovely soft textured attack and an elegant palate. A medium lemon colored, 100% from estate grown Nicely balanced with good acidity and round fi rm tannins. Exemplary fruit, aged in new barrels and stainless steel for six months. The sweet traditional winemaking. Importer: Banfi Old Brookville, NY aromas of Chardonnay fruit give way to a very well balanced, fresh fruit palate with good acidity. Finishes clean and crisp.

Barone Ricasoli is one of the largest and oldest wineries Barone Ricasoli 2003 Vin Santo Tuscany ($41) 91 in Chianti Classico with 500 acres of vineyards—all located The 2003 Vin Santo is predominantly Malvasia with a touch of around the Brolio Castle—and producing two million bottles Sangiovese slowly fermented 24 months in wood followed by 24 of wine annually. Francesco Ricasoli has been aggressively months in of 225 liter oak caratelli. It’s amber in color with aromas of replanting its vineyards and modernizing its winery since dried apricot, orange marmalade, and a hint of caramel. The palate regaining control of the company in 1993. Importer: Remy is medium sweet with apricot and butterscotch fl avors. Finishes clean. Cointreau USA , New York, NY Bibbiano 2006 Chianti Classico Bibbiano Tuscany ($NA) 88 This medium red ruby Chianti Classico displays lovely fragrant Barone Ricasoli 2006 Campo Ceni Tuscany ($88) 88 aromas of morello cherry and earthy notes followed by an attack A medium dark ruby blend of 80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot aged six of soft round and ripe red and black fruit fl avors on the palate. A months in French barriques. There are brambly blackberry aromas delicious wine with purity of fl avor and excellent balance. with earth notes on the nose, followed by a soft attack of dark cherry and loam fl avors. Bibbiano 2006 Chianti Classico Montornello Tuscany ($NA) 87 Barone Ricasoli 2004 Casalferro Tuscany ($50) 92 The Chianti Classico Montornello exhibits a dark ruby color with a The 2004 Casalferro is a 70/30 Sangiovese and Merlot blend distinctly earthy character of red and black fruit and wet forest fl oor aged 18 months in new barriques. The Sangiovese is carefully aromas. On the palate it reveals soft and easy drinking black fruit selected from the best vineyards. It’s opaque ruby color with a lovely, fl avors, round tannins, good balance and a pleasant fi nish. exotic nose of violets, tobacco, blackberry liqueur, and toasty oak. There are layered fl avors of tobacco, dark chocolate, minerals and Borgo Scopeto 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($24) 88 underbrush on the round, soft palate. This is a superbly balanced, The 2005 Borgo Scopeto is medium light ruby in color and offers powerful wine with well managed tannins and a long, long fi nish. aromas of black cherry with touches of violets and vanilla. On the Superb! palate it has a rather dry attack combining fl avors of plum and black cherry with good acidity and balance and well rounded tannins on a long fi nish. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Inc. Birmingham, AL

11 Borgo Scopeto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Misciano Cantalici 2004 Chianti Classico Messer Ridolfo Tuscany Tuscany ($34) 89 ($33) 88 The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva is medium dark ruby with aromas The 2004 Chianti Classico produced by brothers Carlo and Daniele of red and black smoky fruit and a touch of spice. On the palate Cantalici is a 100% Sangiovese. Medium dark ruby in color, it it reveals a soft attack with dry tart black fruit compote fl avors. A displays aromas of cranberry and spice followed by a palate of bigger wine than the Chianti Classico, it displays round tannins and a earthy red and black fruit fl avors with tartness and tannic grip on the pleasantly tart fi nish. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Inc. Birmingham, AL fi nish. Importer: Vias, New York, NY

Cantalici 2004 L’Antic Fornace di Ridolfo Cantalici Riserva Brancaia-Barbara Kronenbeg-Widmer makes Brancaia’s wine Chianti Classico with the assistance of famed consulting oenologist Dr. Carlo Tuscany ($21) 87 Ferrini. This estate gained sudden fame in 1983 when it won a This Chianti Classico Riserva is a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% major Chianti Classico competition, and it has never looked back Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays a medium ruby since. Today, the estate comprises 60 acres of vines, about 65% color and an attractive nose of red fruit with a touch of cinnamon planted to Sangiovese and 30% planted to Merlot. In 1998, and toast. Sweet on the attack, it features candied red fruit, rounded the Widmer family purchased a second, 100 acre estate in the tannins and a fi rm fi nish. Importer: Vias, New York, NY Maremma with the fi rst harvest in 2000. Importer: William Grant & Sons, New York, NY Capannelle is located in Gaiole and produces close to 6,000 cases of high quality Chianti Classico and IGT wines. The estate Brancaia 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($35) 91 is owned by James B. Sherwood, founder and shareholder of the An 85% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot blend aged 16 months in 50% Orient Express Group Hotels. The wines are produced under the new French barriques. The fruit comes from two vineyards that direction of enologist, Simone Monciatti. Importer: Empson USA provide complementary fl avors. The Poppi is lower altitude and Inc., Alexandria, VA contributes earth and dark fruit fl avors, while the Brancaia is high altitude and contributes elegance and red fruit fl avors. The wine is medium dark ruby in color with aromas of red plum, herbs, and Capannelle 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($50) 91 raspberry liqueur. The palate is fresh and layered with fl avors of dark The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva displays a medium dark ruby cherry, vanilla, and smoke. Finishes with nice fi rm tannins and an color with a garnet rim. It’s aromas are of red fruit and baking spice. appealing note of bitter cherry pit. All told, an exceptional wine! Medium weight, it possesses an elegant palate of red plum fl avors and notes of vanilla with purity, lovely balance and a nice long Brancaia 2006 Tre Tuscany ($20) 88 lasting fi nish. A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Chianti Classico and the Maremma Capannelle 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($50) 88 aged 12 months in 50% new French tonneaux. Medium ruby with The 2003 riserva is not as fl avorful or as elegant as the 2004 but is brambly red fruit aromas. Bright plum fl avors on the uncomplicated still very good. It is medium dark ruby in color and has black and palate with herbal and blueberry notes. Finishes long with berry fruit red fruit aromas with a tea note. Medium weight on the palate it fl avors. reveals good acidity with dark plum fruit and spice fl avors and is well-balanced. Brancaia 2006 Il Blu Tuscany ($70) 92 A blend of 50% Sangiovese, 45% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Capannelle 2001 Solare Tuscany ($108) 90 Sauvignon aged 20 months in 2/3 new French barriques. Medium This IGT is a blend of Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera and is imbued dark ruby color with tea leaves, toasty oak, and penetrating violet with an opaque garnet ruby color and a complex nose of dried black aromas. Exhibits a red and black fruit palate of impressive depth and fruit, earth, and forest fl oor. Medium-weight on the palate, it reveals power followed by a ripe tannic fi nish showing sweet, toasty vanilla black berry fruit with cedar and black olive. It is slightly astringent on oak notes. the mid-palate but fi nishes with very sweet, dense black fruit.

Brancaia 2006 Ilatraia Tuscany ($70) 92 Carpineto 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese, and 10% The 2006 Carpineto is medium dark ruby in color and offers aromas aged 18 months in 50% new French barriques. Dark of black cherry fruit, herbs and a touch of hay. On the attack it ruby color with effusive aromas of ripe fresh plum and expensive reveals ripe and concentrated blackberry and black cherry fruit with French oak. Shows a soft attack of blackberry, vanilla, and creamy a soft mid palate and a fi rm fi nish. Importer: Opici Import Company, milk chocolate. Finishes with terrifi c persistence of juicy dark fruit and toasty oak.

1 Casaloste 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 85 The oenologist Giovanni Battista d’Orsi is owner and manager of the Castello D’Albola is located in Radda and consists of 157 Fattoria Casaloste, located in Panzano. This rustic dark ruby garnet acres of vineyards situated at 1,500 to 1,600 ft. The winery is 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico exhibits red fruit and a touch owned and operated by the Zonin family, Italy’s largest wine of dank cellar aromas on the nose, followed by rather dry red fruit company. The wines produced at this state are quintessential fl avors on the palate. The wine fi nishes with some hard tannins. high quality Chianti Classico. Importer: Zonin USA Inc, Charlottesville, VA Casaloste 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($NA) 88 This dark ruby 100% Sangiovese riserva shows black fruit and herbal aromas and a very dry palate of dense black fruit and strong Castello D'Albola 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($16) 87 undertones of herbs, brush, and chocolate. The fi nish is quite tannic. An uncomplicated, easy drinking entry level Chianti Classico. Offers a medium red ruby color and a perfumed light cherry nose with Casa Sola 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($23) 88 touches of toast. The wine fi nishes soft with round tannins and dry This Chianti Classico displays red fruit and earth aromas and a sweet fruit fl avors. medium-bodied palate of fresh red and black fruit fl avors, medium weight, lovely texture, and good acidity. It has a persistent and Castello D'Albola 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany slightly bitter fi nish. Importer: USA Export Solutions Jersey City, NJ ($28) 91 This Chianti Classico is deep ruby in color with aromas of dark Casa Sola 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($27) 89 cherry and black olives with a roasted meat note. Its attack is soft The medium ruby garnet riserva offers spicy red and black fruit and lush, with a very nicely textured and velvety smooth palate of aromas and fl avors with a touch of sandalwood. It is nicely smoky black fruit. It’s fantastic with ragout of cingale (wild boar). concentrated, has excellent acidity and balance, and a round pleasant fi nish. Importer: USA Export Solutions Jersey City, NJ Castello D’ Albola Chianti Classico Le Ellere ($20) 89 This 100% Sangiovese is medium ruby-garnet in color with a fresh Castell' in Villa 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($30) 89 Morello cherry nose. Aged 12 months in Alliers barriques, it is of This dark ruby wine is made of 100% Sangiovese aged in traditional medium weight with red cherry fruit and vanilla notes on the palate. Chianti casks for 12 months. It has a nose of roasted meats, tobacco, Flavorful, well-balanced and easy drinking, it fi nishes sweet and and wild black cherry. The palate of dark fruit and tobacco is very long. dry and could benefi t from more time in the bottle. Domaine Select, New York, NY Castello di Ama 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($70) 89 The 2005 Castello di Ama exhibits a lovely medium ruby color with Castellare Di Castellina 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany aromas of fresh cranberry and pomegranate with hints of black ($15) 87 pepper. On the palate it is silky smooth and offers rather tart red fruit Displaying a medium dark ruby color, this Chianti Classico offers fl avors with high acidity, fi rm tannins and a dry and slightly bitter scents of fresh red and black berry fruit with touches of cassis. It has fi nish. Importer: The Sorting Table Napa, CA a soft attack with a slightly tart mid-palate, spicy and rustic black fruit fl avors, and dry tannins on a long fi nish. Importer: Winebow Castello di Bossi 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 Montvale, NJ Castello di Bossi's 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico displays a medium dark ruby color with aromas of ripe, red and black cherry Castellare Di Castellina 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva fruit and toasted oak. It is full fl avored with good balance and offers ($35) 88 a long lasting and satisfying fi nish Importer: Winebow Montvale, NJ The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva displays a deep ruby color and aromas of black fruit and cedar. It offers a soft attack of lush black Castello di Bossi 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Berardo fruit fl avors on the palate and is rich and concentrated with good Tuscany ($41) 89 balance and a soft round fi nish. Importer: Winebow Montvale, NJ The 2003 Riserva Bernandro, dark ruby with an opaque core, offers jammy red and black fruit, balsamic notes and toast on the palate. Castellare Di Castellina 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Rather traditional and earthy in character, it fi nishes somewhat short Vigna Il Poggiale Tuscany ($45) 90 and slightly dry but has a lot of personality. Importer: Winebow The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Il Poggiale is a big wine Montvale, NJ with a deep dark ruby color and a garnet rim. Its aromas are of high toned black fruit with a touch of vanilla and toast. Soft attack on the attack, it displays a lush mouth feel with concentrated black fruit fl avors. It is well balanced with a fi rm fi nish and big tannic grip. Importer: Winebow Montvale, NJ

13 Castello di Cacchiano 2005 Rosso Tuscany ($NA) 88 Castello di Cachiano. Giovanni Ricasoli-Firidolfi has led This is a medium ruby blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot, the renovation of this ancient wine estate dating from the 12th Canaiolo, and Malvasia Nera aged 30 months in oak barrels and century. The top priority of this renewal has been the vineyard, cement vats. Light cherry and garrique aromas introduce a medium where the old vineyards planted by Giovanni’s father in the weight palate of brambly cherry, tobacco and tea, fi nishing with fi rm early 1970s are gradually being replaced with high density tannins. plantings of the best Sangiovese clones. The fruits of this effort are only just beginning to be refl ected in the wines. In top Castello di Cacchiano 2000 Vin Santo Tuscany ($NA) 92 vintages, the estate produces only riservas and almost always An amber colored, medium sweet nectar of 85% Malvasia Bianca blends Sangiovese with Merlot. Cacchiano’s future looks bright and 15% Canaiolo dried on wooden grates for two months and indeed. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections , New York, aged six years in oak caratelli of 50 to 150 liters. Rich caramel and NY crème brulee aromas give way to lovely, layered fl avors of toasted almond and rich butterscotch and a superb, long fi nish.

Castello di Cacchiano 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Cacchiano 2001 Vin Santo Tuscany ($80) 92 Tuscany ($40) 91 Mahogany in color (due to the relatively high share—30%--of Medium dark ruby in color with a plenitude of chocolate, toasted Canaiolo) with aromas of Oloroso sherry, orange zest, and toasted oak, and rich red fruit aromas. The texture is soft and elegant with almonds. Reveals a complex fl avor profi le of coffee liqueur, brown a beautifully balanced, rich red fruit palate of excellent depth and sugar, and toasted walnuts. Different from most Vin Santo and purity and a long, fl avorful smoke and cherry fi nish. This is a wine at incredibly good! or near its peak – buy and consume now.

Castello di Cacchiano 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Fonterutoli - Under the direction of Filippo Tuscany ($NA) 90 Mazzei the Castello di Fonterutoli has modernized its This medium dark ruby blend of Sangiovese (95%) and Canaiolo winemaking with a gravity fl ow winery and 100 hectoliter (5%) is aged 30 months in French oak, which shows on the temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with micro- expressive nose of toasty oak, wet earth, and game. There are oxygenation. Grapes from more than 120 different parcels fl avors of tobacco, loamy earth, and red fruit with an expressive are fermented and aged separately. Modernization of the fi nish of vanilla and tobacco. winery is matched by improvements in the vineyards, which are being systematically replanted over time. Importer: Palm Bay Castello di Cacchiano 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva International, Syosset, NY Tuscany ($40) 93 Dark garnet ruby with ripe, rich, syrupy aromas of balsamic, mushrooms, and Pedro Ximenez. The rich, ripe, full palate is very Castello di Fonterutoli 2006 Poggio alla Badiola Tuscany nicely balanced with multiple layers of red and black fruit, loam and ($13) 87 caramelized nuts, and the fi nish is long and rich with ripe tannins. A medium dark ruby blend of 75% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot with a This lovely wine from a superb vintage is at its peak. Drink now! nose of red berries, blueberries, and spice. The palate is soft with red plum fl avors and somewhat astringent tannins. Castello di Cacchiano 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($26) 89 A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo aged 23 months in a Castello di Fonterutoli 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany variety of French oak casks. There’s a pleasant nose of dark earth, ($27) 90 brambles, and deep cherry with a nice, fresh mouth feel. The palate Dark ruby blend of 90% Sangiovese plus Malvasia Nera, Colorino, is nicely balanced with dusty, dark red fruit and fi rm tannins. and Merlot. Dark cherry, earth, violets, garrique and a touch of tar show on the nose. The palate is soft and lush with sweet, black fruit, Castello di Cacchiano 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva loam, and milk chocolate fl avors. The fi nish is medium-long with fi rm Tuscany ($NA) 91 tannins. Medium dark ruby with forest fl oor and cedar spice aromas. Gives a somewhat showy attack that evolves to a full, ripe palate with notes Castello di Fonterutoli 2005 Chianti Classico Castello di of cedar oak and cigar box that complement the cherry fruit. Fonterutoli Tuscany ($60) 92 This is an opaque ruby blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Castello di Cacchiano 2006 Merlot Tuscany ($NA) 91 Sauvignon showing a beautifully fragrant nose of violets, black fruit, A yet to be released, opaque ruby Merlot aged in mostly new dark chocolate, and licorice. Flavors of sweet black fruit, coconut, barriques. There are very showy aromas of blueberry, dark chocolate chocolate, and baking spice unfold on the soft, lush palate. Ripe, fi rm and mint that carry over to the rich, dark red fruit palate. Finishes tannins round out the fi nish. with gripping, ripe tannins. Look for this one to hit your favorite wine store.

14 Castello di Fonterutoli 2005 Siepi Tuscany ($110) 91 Castello di Monsanto 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Il The 2005 Siepi is an opaque ruby 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Poggio Tuscany ($60) 94 Merlot with an expressive nose of dark cherry, cassis, and toasty, A medium dark ruby fruit bomb from the classic 2001 vintage, smoky oak. It’s full and round in the mouth with fl avors of dark plum, showing a bouquet of dark cherry, licorice, and bitter chocolate. wet earth, and toasty oak. The long, long fl avorful fi nish ends with a The incredibly complex palate is full-bodied and elegant palate with bitter chocolate note. fl avors of dark cherry, plum, milk chocolate, graphite and minerals.

Castello di Meleto 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($27) 89 Castello di Monsanto 1995 Chianti Classico Riserva Il This large Gaiole estate's Chianti Classico displays a dark ruby color Poggio Tuscany ($60) 93 with fresh scents of black fruit and toast. It is soft on the attack with Medium garnet with a brick rim, the 1995 vintage offers a nose of sweet, black fruit., good concentration and clean fl avors. A mature fragrant red fruit, dried cherries, and caramelized nuts followed by a wine ready to drink. Importer:Vias, New York, NY soft, complex and still fresh palate of ripe plum, dried red fruit, and notes of cigar box and minerals. Finishes long and fl avorful with still Castello di Monastero 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany gripping tannins. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA New York, ($20) 87 The 2005 Chianti Classico is a light-bodied blend of 85% Castello di Monsanto 1982 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Sangiovese, 8% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 6 Poggio Tuscany ($NA) 93 months in small oak barrels, it displays a medium light ruby color This medium garnet-brick, orange rimmed complex wine is a classic and spicy herbal aromas with toasty notes. It offers a pleasant attack IL Poggio. Wafts of forest fl oor and tobacco with a licorice note of black and red fruit, moderate concentration and a dry tart palate provide a fi rst introduction, followed by a soft, lush texture and and fi nish .Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons , White Plains, NY fl avors of earth, tobacco and dried cranberry. The highly mineral fi nish is long and a tad astringent. A great food wine! Castello di Monastero 2005 Chianti Superiore Tuscany ($17) 87 The Superiore is also a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet The Castello di Querceto is a 190 hectare estate (60 ha. of Sauvignon. It is medium light ruby and offers scents of black and red vines) located in a small valley about seven miles from Greve. fruit and spice. Aged for six months in small oak barrels, it displays The François family has owned it since 1897. Alessandro a soft attack, ripe fruit palate but fi nishes somewhat astringent. François, manager of the estate since 1978, has introduced Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY numerous changes in the vineyard and winery which today positions Castello de Querceto among the leading estates of Chianti Classico. Among the changes introduced is the Castello di Monsanto is a heavily wooded estate of 206 production of several single vineyard crus, including the Il Picchio hectares, including 72 hectares of mostly Sangiovese vines. Chianti Classico Riserva. Fully 92% of the Castello’s production Vineyard soil includes both Galestri (stratifi ed, petrifi ed clay) is exported, with the major markets being the US, Germany, and and Tufi (sedimentary strata of marine sands). Owner Fabrizio Korea. Importer: Prestige Wine Imports New York, NY Bianchi has been a pioneer of new viticulture and winemaking techniques since purchasing the estate in 1962. Monsanto makes wines ranging from Chianti Classico to the IGT Toscana Castello di Querceto 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($14) 89 Nemo. Our tasting at the winery focused almost exclusively on The 2006 Chianti Classico is a blend of 92% Sangiovese, the single vineyard “Il Poggio”. Il Poggio is a blend of 90% 8% Canaiolo that’s deep ruby purple in color with aromas of Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo and Colorino that is aged 18 boysenberry, blackberry, and pepper and fl avors of dark berries months in one and two year old French oak barriques. Il Poggio, and a hint of menthol. It is a nicely balanced and somewhat refi ned fi rst produced in 1962, is Chianti Classico’s fi rst single vineyard Chianti with a touch of ash on the dry gripping fi nish. cru. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA New York, NY Castello di Querceto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($24) 90 Castello di Monsanto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il The grapes (95% Sangiovese) for this dark ruby, almost opaque Poggio Tuscany ($65) 94 Riserva are selected in the vineyard before harvest, and the wine is Aromas of Tuscan underbrush, tobacco, and ripe plum introduce aged in barriques for about 12 months. Lovely aromas of dark fruit this medium dark ruby classic. There’s a lovely, fresh palate of milk and sage give way to a soft but fi rmly textured attack showing black chocolate, red plum, and smoked nuts and a long, very fl avorful fruit, licorice, and smoky oak. fi nish of minerals and cherry liqueur. Castello di Querceto 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Monsanto 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Tuscany ($NA) 91 Poggio Tuscany ($60) 91 The deep ruby, superbly balanced 2005 Riserva shows boysenberry, This medium-dark ruby IL Poggio from a hot vintage shows ripe, fruit underbrush, and fi eld herbs on the nose. The soft palate offers a forward aromas of almost jammy dark bing cherry and sandalwood. mélange of fl avors, including ripe, dark plum, black olives and black The attack is soft and fl eshy with fl avors of plum jam, cigar box, and raspberry. dark chocolate. Finishes with ripe, mature tannins.

15 Castello di Querceto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva IL Castello di Verrazzano 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Picchio Tuscany ($40) 91 Tuscany ($43) 89 This opaque ruby riserva is sourced from the low yielding IL Picchio Dark ruby to the rim, this warm climate Chianti Classico shows a very vineyard. It offers spicy black cherry fruit on the nose. Aged in oak ripe nose of cherry fruit with notes of cedar and a touch of licorice. It barrels for 12-14 months it reveals a full throttled attack of lush red is soft and savory on the palate with very ripe dark dried fruit notes, and black fruit and a full rich mouth feel. It has great balance, good good balance, round tannins, and a nice long fi nish Importer: Palm acidity and a fi rm ripe fi nish. Bay International, Syosset, NY

Castello di Querceto 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva IL Picchio Tuscany ($40) 93 Dating from the 12th century, the Castello di Volpaia may The single vineyard Il Picchio is opaque ruby with a purple rim. There be the most photogenic and charming winery in all of Chianti, are effusive scents of herbs, berries, and shrubs and a dense, viscous a region that is run amok with quaint, historic sites. And mouth feel of lovely, rich blackberry fruit, tar, and dark earth. This is Giovannella Stianti, owner of the Fattoria Castello di Volpaia, is a silky wine of wonderful balance and texture, and it fi nishes long one of the most gracious and generous hosts in Chianti, where with blueberry and smoke notes. hospitality at the winery reigns supreme. The Volpaia estate is 390 hectares, of which 47 are planted in vineyards. Ricardo Castello di Querceto 1990 Chianti Classico Riserva IL Cotarella is consulting winemaker. Volpaia wines have a distinct Picchio Tuscany ($NA) personality – highly perfumed, pure fruit, and long ripe fi nishes The 1990 Il Picchio is dark garnet ruby with a dark brick rim. Hay with soft tannins. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd. St. Helena, CA and earth show on the nose, and dried cherry, leather and anise fl avors appear on the palate. It has nice structure and balance and fi nishes long and spicy. This is a good example of how Chianti Castello di Volpaia 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($23) 88 Classico ages, developing elegant secondary notes over time. The regular bottling is a medium dark ruby blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot and with aromas reminiscent of cherry pie. Castello di Querceto 2003 Cingale Tuscany ($90) 92 It is soft on the palate with pure fruit fl avors that carry through to the This is another single vineyard cru produced from 90% Cabernet long and pleasing fi nish. Sauvignon and 10% Merlot fruit from the Ponticini – La Sorgente vineyard and aged 20-24 months in French barriques. This opaque Castello di Volpaia 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ruby beauty shows aromas of forest fl oor, cassis and garden herbs ($34) 89 with a very soft attack of smoky, dark berry fruit with accents of The standard reserve is medium dark ruby color with fresh cherry fruit cedar and toasty oak. and spice aromas. It shows good concentration of candied cherries on the palate with blueberry, pepper, and garrique notes. Finishes Castello di Querceto 2003 IL Sole di Alessandro Tuscany with supple, ripe tannins. ($42) 92 This Super Tuscan is a saturated opaque ruby, 100% Cabernet Castello di Volpaia 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Sauvignon aged 24 months in barriques, 20% of which is new Coltassala Tuscany ($54) 92 oak. The fruit for this single vineyard cru comes from the L’ischiata A dark ruby 95% Sangiovese, 5% blend from the low- vineyard. Aromas of black currants, cedar and wild herbs give way yielding (1.8 tons/acre) single vineyard Coltassala, located at to a soft attack and dense, dark extracted fl avors of fi gs, graphite, 1450 feet above sea level. Aged about 18 months in small French minerals and black olive tapenade. Absolutely delicious! barriques, it shows a beautiful, perfumed bouquet of blackberry jam and smoky oak and a very fruity attack of concentrated blackberry Castello di Querceto 2004 La Corte Tuscany ($37) 90 fruit. Finishes long and lovely with purity of fruit and good acidity. An Rich blackberry, dried plums, and herbs emanate from the glass exceptional wine from an exceptional locale! of this opaque ruby, 100% Sangiovese Super Tuscan from grapes grown in the La Corte vineyard and aged 12 months in 20% new Castello di Volpaia 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva oak. This is a big, bold wine with fl avors of black fruit, olives, tar Coltassala Tuscany ($46) 90 and licorice and a touch of bitter cocoa. It fi nishes long and soft with Medium dark ruby, fading to the rim. Aromas of black cherry fruit, violet notes. sandalwood, baking spice, toasted oak, coffee. Lovely, soft attack of concentrated fruit with smoky notes. Nicely balanced with fi rm Castello di Tornano 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($18) 90 tannins on the fi nish. Deep ruby through the rim with expresso, touch of leather, and dried dark fruit aromas. This is a nicly integrated, well-balanced wine with Castello di Volpaia 1990 Coltassala Tuscany ($NA) 93 a rich attach and slightly drying tannins on the fi nish.. Should be a Dark garnet with an orange rim and aromas of earth, leather, prunes, great food wine—try with osso buco. Importer: Margerum Wine and dried fruit. There’s an expressive layered and dense palate of Company , Los Olivos, CA black olives, tar, forest fl oor and a touch of palo cortado sherry. Still fi rmly tannic, this is a wine past its prime but still extremely enjoyable with incredible richness and complexity. If you have the good fortune to have one in your cellar, open it soon to celebrate the next special occasion that comes along.

16 Castello di Volpaia 2005 Balifi co Tuscany ($48) 91 Fattoria di Cinciano 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva The 2005 Balifi co is an opaque ruby blend of 2/3 Sangiovese, 1/3 Tuscany ($30) 88 Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak barriques for 18 months. It Medium dark ruby garnet in color, this riserva offers aromas of plum exhibits effusive scents of smoky oak, cassis and earth and a layered and red and black fruit fl avors on the palate. Easy drinking and very palate of sweet, concentrated fruit. Finishes with gripping, sweet tasty with a long lasting fruity fi nish. Importer: New England Wine tannins. Powerful but not elegant. & Spirits West Haven, CT

Castello di Volpaia 2000 Vin Santo Tuscany (375ml $35) 90 Fattoria La Ripa 2007 Chianti Classico ($NA) 87 The 2000 Vin Santo is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia. It’s light La Ripa is an ancient estate, once owned by the father of Mona Lisa, amber in color with aromas of toffee, apricots, and golden raisins. famously painted by da Vinci. The wine is produced from the estate’s The palate is soft and sweet with fl avors of rum-soaked raisins. own 400 meter high vineyards near San Casciano. This Chianti Finishes long and semi-sweet. Classico is a very young fresh easy-drinking fruit-driven wine with black and red fruit aromas and notes of black pepper. It is soft on Castello Vicchiomaggio 2006 Chianti Classico San Jacopo the attack with good fruit concentration and fl avors and a fi rm fi nish. Tuscany ($20) 85 The Chianti Classico San Jacopo displays an opaque ruby color and Fattoria La Ripa 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva ($NA) 88 aromas of charred oak and black fruit. It is soft on the attack and The riserva is dark ruby in color with pretty, perfumed plum and reveals ripe fruit, but heavily charred oak fl avors overwhelm the fruit, black cherry vanilla aromas. It has a soft and lush attack of ripe, and the fi nish is dry. dark fruit of high acidity and fi nishes with round, gripping tannins. Needs a little more time in bottle. Castello Vicchiomaggio 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Agostino Petri Tuscany ($35) 88 Fatorria Nittardi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 89 The Riserva Petri has a lovely deep ruby color and an exotic, spicy, The 2006 Chianti Classico is a very pleasant fresh tasting wine and intensely aromatic nose. On the attack it is smooth and velvety imbued with spicy black cherry fruit aromas and a soft attack of with ripe black and red fruits and mushroom. It is nicely balanced lovely ripe mouth fi lling fruit and toasted cedar. It is well balanced and integrated with a fi rm fi nish. A big step up from the San Jacopo. with a fi rm fi nish. Very well done.

Castello Vicchiomaggio 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva La Fattoria Rodano 2004 Chianti Classico Castellina in Prima Tuscany ($48) 90 Chianti ($18) 87 Dark ruby in color, this riserva, the best of this trio, displays aromas Vittorio Pozzesi (member of the Consorzio board of directors) and of brambly black cherry fruit followed by sweet vanilla, baking spice his son Enrico manage the Rodano winery, advised by winemaker and toasted oak. It is soft and sweet on the palace with sweet spicy Giulio Gambelli. The fruit comes from southwest facing vineyards in red and black fruit fl avors, tobacco, and a typical bitter fi nish. the Castellina district. This is a medium dark ruby, traditionally styled Chianti aged in large, oak botti and showing aromas of earth, cedar Cecchi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($16) 88 and game. It’s sweet but very dry on the palate with dark red fruit The 2006 Cecchi Chianti Classico is medium dark ruby and displays in the foreground. Finishes with dry tannins. Enotec Imports, Denver aromas of creamy framboise and vanilla coke. On the palate it offers CO a soft attack of ripe red and black fruit, along with soft tannins and a persistent fi nish. Importer: Banfi Old Brookville, New York Fattoria Viticcio - The Landini family has owned and Da Vinci 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 managed the Fattoria Viticcio, located near Greve, since 1964. This is a dark ruby, earthy Chianti Classico consisting of 95% After writing his university thesis on “The Economics of Chianti”, Sangiovese and 5% Colorino. It displays scents of forest fl oor, current owner Alessandro Landini has overseen a number of mushroom and herbs. It has a nicely balanced palate with black reforms in the winery and the vineyard, including the conversion cherry fruit, a touch of tar, nice soft tannins and a long, fl avorful to biodynamic agriculture. Fattoria Viticcio produces modern fi nish. Well done. Importer: Da Vinci, USA Healdsburg, CA international style wines of high quality and style. Importer: Sherbrooke Cellars White Plains, NY Da Vinci 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($22) 87 The riserva is 100% Sangiovese and is aged 12 for months in French oak. Dark ruby in color, it displays a fruit forward nose of Fattoria Viticcio 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($21) 87 spicy black fruit with a touch of pepper and licorice. It is soft on the This 2006 Chianti Classico is dark ruby blend of 95% Sangiovese attack with rich, ripe clean black fruit and bitter chocolate notes. The and 5% Merlot and emits aromas of blackberry, plum and Tuscan fi nish is dry and astringent and somewhat short. Importer: Da Vinci, underbrush. The medium weight palate provides fl avors of dark fruit, USA Healdsburg, CA minerals, and licorice with gripping ripe tannins and a dry fi nish. This is an uncomplicated wine that is still young and tight. This wine Fattoria di Cinciano 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 will age well and offer pleasure for years to come. Medium ruby in color, this youthful Chianti Classico displays a pure fruit nose of raspberry and dried cherry. On the palate, it reveals brambly and spicy red berry fruit with good texture, high acidity and a lingering fi nish. Importer: New England Wine & Spirits West Haven, CT

17 Fattoria Viticcio 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Tuscany ($30) 90 ($45) 93 The Riserva is a traditionally styled Chianti aged in 80% French, Aromas of dark red fruit, sandalwood, and perfumed, toasted oak 20% American used oak. It’s medium dark ruby in color with a nose fl ow from this dark ruby 100% Sangiovese, which is aged 18 months of black fruit, tar, violets, and vanilla oak. Round and full on the in small and medium oak barrels. This is a wine of impressive depth palate, there are abundant rich fl avors of licorice, blackberry, loam, and fullness on the palate with black raspberry, grilled meat, and and sweet oak. hints of mocha and dark chocolate. Amazingly long, sweet fi nish of framboise and cedar with gripping, ripe tannins. Superb! Fattoria Viticcio 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Lucius Tuscany ($40) 90 Felsina 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Tuscany This modern style Chianti with a dark ruby core and cherry red rim ($40) 89 is aged in 1/3 new French and American oak. Fresh oak and black Showing deep ruby with slight garnet rim, the 2001 Rancia has an and red fruit aromas give way to a lovely, lush mouthful of refi ned amazingly youthful appearance. The bouquet includes spicy dark dark red fruit, garrique, spice and tar. A very attractive wine. fruit, framboise and a hint of tobacco. It’s soft and full in the mouth with signifi cant depth of fl avor and ripe, gentle tannins. Fattoria Viticcio 2005 Monile ($40) 89 The mix of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot in this very Felsina 1994 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Tuscany dark ruby wine is aged 18 months in 50% new oak. Earth, cassis, ($50) 95 and toasty oak characterize the nose. It’s lush and full in the mouth The 1994 Rancia is deep garnet with a brick rim, showing complex with very ripe, sweet fl avors of licorice, dark fruit, prune, and smoky aromas of tea, cigar box, dried dark cherries and a soft, gentle oak and fi nishes with hints of violets and blueberries. A blockbuster attack of perfectly integrated fl avors. Dried fruit, mocha, and loam with gripping tannins! fl avors predominate on the rich, densely packed palate. There are dry tannins on the long, long fi nish of smoky heather. Fattoria Viticcio 2005 Prunaio Tuscany ($NA) 91 The 100% dark ruby Sangiovese Prunaio is aged 14 months in oak, Felsina 2005 Fontalloro Tuscany ($56) 96 half of it new. There are violets and toasty oak on the nose with red This100% Sangiovese from Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli and black fruit fl avors, a velvety soft mouth feel, and a ripe, tannic Senesi is a wine of impressive texture and depth. Aged 20 months fi nish of violets and raspberries. in barriques, it is saturated, dark ruby to the rim with aromas of dark cherry, cedar, and bitter chocolate. A sweet, rich ripe fruit attack is succeeded by a rich black cherry palate with mocha and black earth The Fattoria di Felsina, formerly part of a complex owned notes. Extraordinarily harmonious and balanced with a long, long by Benedictine monks, is located in the very southeast corner of palate staining fi nish. Chianto Classico adjoining the territory of Chianti Colli Senesi. Proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin and consulting oenologist Felsina 2001 Fontalloro Tuscany ($35) 93 Franco Bernabei regularly craft some of the most outstanding The 2001 Fontalloro is dark ruby with a garnet rim and aromas of wines of the Chianti region. The wines are also offered at wet earth, tea leaves, cigar box and an underpinning of mature red terrifi c prices in view of their quality. Felsina wines are widely plum fruit. It has a very rich, integrated, silky smooth palate of ripe distributed throughout the United States and internationally. plum and mocha and shows sweet tannins on the fi nish.

Felsina 1997 Fontalloro Tuscany ($40) 96 Felsina 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 90 This Fontalloro from Tuscany’s vintage of the century has an opaque Here’s a dark ruby, 100% Sangiovese from 50+ year old vines that ruby core and amber rim and shows intense, expressive aromas of exhibits black raspberry and dark cherry fruit aromas that carry over dark cherry, tobacco, and wet earth with a gamy note. Very sweet to the silky palate, with notes of heather underbrush. It has a pure, on the multi-faceted palate with integrated fl avors of super-ripe plum, long fi nish. mocha, and cigar box.

Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 92 Felsina 1995 Fontalloro Tuscany ($40) 94 Aromas of framboise, cigar box, and underlying red cherry fruit Over a decade old, the 1995 Fontalloro is dark garnet with an emanate from this medium dark ruby, 100% old vine Sangiovese. amber rim and showing highly perfumed aromas of smoke, plum, The sappy fresh, cherry and raspberry fruit carries over to the palate. and tobacco. The very soft, elegant palate has a suave texture and Finishes with terrifi c, juicy framboise and cedar notes. lovely, integrated fl avors of dried fruit and tea.

Felsina 2006 I Sistri Tuscany ($18) 89 This straw gold, 100% Chardonnay with aromas of honey, vanilla, and ripe tropical fruit is a beautifully balanced wine with a sweet, ripe melon palate and excellent acidity. Finishes long and sweet.

18 Fontodi 2005 Chianti Classico ($27) 91 Giovanni Manetti makes the wine at Fontodi with the assistance of Le Cinciole - Valeria Vigano and Luca Orsini have created a famed oenologist Franco Bernabei. Their 2005 Chianti Classico is small, certifi ed organic,13 hectare family winery located near showing beautifully right now. The 12 months it spends in French Panzano and represented by famed negociant Marc de Grazia. barriques is perfectly integrated in the fruit. High toned red fruit The winemaking focus of Le Cinciole is to let the terroir shine characterize this wine in all respects—the nose, the palate, and through the wines. Importer: VinDivino , Chicago, Il the fi nish. It has a soft attack with sottobosco aromas and fl avors complementing the Morello cherry character. Le Cinciole 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($24) 90 Felsina 1999 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Tuscany ($37) 93 This is a medium dark ruby wine with dark cherry, wet earth, and This is an outstanding Vin Santo. It’s orange apricot in color with underbrush aromas. It’s full in the mouth with assertive fl avors of effusive aromas of orange zest and dried apricots and captivatingly earth and a beautiful core of pure dark cherry fruit. Finishes long and sweet fl avors of smoky Scotch whiskey and butterscotch. fl avorful with gentle tannins.

Il Borghetto Billacio2004 Chianti Classico Riserva San Le Cinciole 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($32) 90 Casiano Tuscany ($80) 90 One of our favorite Chianti Classicos, the superbly balanced, The Azienda Agricola il Borghetto is a 30 ha. estate with 6 ha. of medium dark ruby wine is redolent of black cherry fruit and cedar vineyards facing the Val di Pesa. The 100% Sangiovese Chianti with a very soft, round palate, a ripe, full mouth-feel, and a long Classico Riserva is Borghetto’s top wine made in small quantities. It lasting fi nish. A joy to drink! is medium dark ruby with enticing aromas of coconut and toasty oak and a nice, sweet attack of ripe cherry fruit and vanilla oak. Finishes Le Cinciole 2005 Camalaione Tuscany ($75) 93 sweet and long with mature tannins. This is an opaque ruby blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 15% Syrah showing black fruit and expensive, toasty Il Borghetto Billacio 2005 Chianti Classico ($NA) 87 French oak and vanilla on the nose. It’s dense and dark on a This is medium dark ruby in color with aromas of vanilla oak with beautifully balanced palate with fl avors of cassis, bittersweet red berry fruit accent. It has a sweet oak attack with moderate fruit chocolate, smoky toasted oak, and nuances of spice and minerals. It on the palate and fi nishes with coconut and vanilla fl avors and ripe has a long, fl avorful fi nish of dark cassis and smoky oak. All in all, a tannins. wine of real power and elegance.

Il Colombaio di Cencio 2004 Massi Chianti Classico Le Cinciole 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Petresco Tuscany ($45) 89 Tuscany ($50) 92 Located in Gaiole near the Castello di Brolio, this small estate The 100% Sangiovese Petresco undergoes malo in used oak and produces a delicious modern styled Chianti Classico named i Massi. is then aged 18 months in barrique. It’s dark ruby in color with a A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, it is medium ruby in color with a reticent nose of minerals, black cherry, and garrique and has a soft, fruit forward nose of ripe strawberry and cherry and lightly toasted lush attack of black and red fruit, smoky oak, and a hint of bitter oak. It is soft on the attack with nicely concentrated red fruit fl avors, chocolate. There’s great depth and fullness on a layered, well- round tannins and is long lasting on the palate. balanced palate as well as a long fl avorful fi nish of dark fruit.

Isole e Olena 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 89 Le Cinciole 1994 Vecchie Vigne Chianti Classico Riserva This Chianti Classico normale is medium ruby color with fresh red Tuscany ($NA) 91 berry aromas and a note of mint. There’s a soft attack of spicy, ripe This is an antecedent of the Petresco. It has a ruby garnet core red fruit on a medium weight with nice balance and a good gripping with an orange rim and a perfume of earth, leather and dried fi nish. Importer: Grape Expectations Wine Imports Raleigh, NC cherries with a slight musty note. The attack is very soft, and the elegant palate shows minerals, dried cherries, herbs, and a touch of La Castellina 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 90 sandalwood. The 2005 Chianti Classico displays a medium ruby color with a touch of orange on the rim. It reveals scents of slightly oxidized dried red Livernano 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($40) 90 fruit and earth not unlike a dry oloroso sherry. On the attack, it offers This modern-styled Chianti Classico displays a dark ruby color and a soft round mouth feel, followed by a well-balanced palate, ripe aromas of black cherry, toasted oak and smoke. On the attack, it tannins and a long fi nish. Importer: Saranty Imports Harrison, NY offers soft concentrated black cherry fruit, charred oak, chocolate and coffee. It has a velvety mouth feel with perfect balance and La Castellina 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany fi nishes with rich and sustained fl avors. A terrifi c wine. Importer: ($27) 87 Winebow Montvale, NJ The 2003 Chianti Classico is medium dark ruby with a garnet rim. It offers fresh aromas of black cherry and toasted oak with notes of leather. Soft on the attack, it features fl avors of dried cherry fruit, savory notes and a touch of earth with slightly austere tannins. Importer: Saranty Imports Harrison, NY

19 Mannucci Droandi 2006 Chianti Classico Ceppeto Tuscany Ormanni 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 87 ($17) 87 A 90/10 blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, medium ruby in color A medium ruby blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo and 5% and showing light aromas of fresh red cherries and white pepper. other local varietals. Traditional in style, it offers aromas and fl avors The attack is soft with black fruit and tar fl avors, and it fi nishes with of red berry fruit and herbs with high acidity and a short fi nish. fi rm tannins.

Massanera 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($17) 86 Ormanni 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Borro del Diavolo This 100% Sangiovese displays a medium ruby color with pretty Tuscany ($NA) 88 fl oral aromas and a touch of cedar. It is rather light on the palate Closed aromas of dark cherry and tar introduce this medium dark with dry fruit fl avors and dry tannins on the fi nish. ruby riserva. The texture is somewhat granular, with a palate of black Importer: Saranty Imports, Harrison, NY fruit, dark chocolate and tar. Finishes fl avorful but very dry.

Massanera 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany($35) 89 Ormanni 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Borro del Diavolo This is a 90% Sangiovese, dark ruby wine aged in French oak Tuscany ($NA) 87 barriques. Showing sweet black cherry and toasty oak aromas, the This is a medium dark ruby, somewhat rustic 100% Sangiovese attack is soft and lush. It’s rich, sweet and concentrated on the palate based wine showing tea, loam and forest fl oor on the nose. The with dark juicy fruit fl avors of some depth. Finishes long and sweet mouthfeel is lush with fl avors of tar, tea, tobacco and licorice. with ripe, gripping tannins. A delicious wine! Importer: Saranty Finishes long with fi rm tannins. Imports, Harrison, NY Ormanni 2001 Julius Tuscany ($NA) 88 Melini 2006 Chianti Classico Isassi Tuscany ($17) 87 A blend of 60% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot, and 10% Syrah, this The single vineyard Chianti Classico Isassi is 100% Sangiovese. It medium dark ruby wine from outside Chianti Classico is lovely to exhibits a medium light ruby color and has a somewhat muted nose drink with its aromas of tea, underbrush, and black pepper and of leather and cranberry. Aged for one year in oak, it offers ripe red sweet palate of black fruit, loam, and cigar box. fruit fl avors, light cedar with good acidity and a touch of astringency on the fi nish. This is a nicely balanced wine and pleasant to drink. Panzanello 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 89 Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons New York, NY This Chianti Classico of 100% Sangiovese displays a dark ruby color and scents of wild black and red fruit. On the palate it reveals Melini 2003 La Selvanella Riserva Tuscany ($31) 88 a meaty character with lovely ripe black cherry fruit fl avors, a soft The La Selvanella Riserva exhibits a medium dark garnet color and round attack, ripe tannins, and a long lasting fi nish. emits ripe dark cherry compote aromas. Soft on the attack, it offers savory black fruit fl avors on a brambly rustic palate. Well balanced Piegaia 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($16) 90 like other Melini wines, this bottling is one of the better riservas of a This Chianti Classico is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. diffi cult vintage. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons New York, NY It displays a lovely medium ruby color with aromas of smoky red and black fruit, coffee and spice notes with a touch of cedar. Elegant and Montebernardi 2006 Chianti Classico Retromarcia refi ned, it reveals a modern international style with a long tasty fi nish. Tuscany ($22) 87 An exciting wine offered at a great price. Importer: The Marchetti The medium dark ruby Retromarcia shows a spicy nose of nicely Co., Cleveland Heights, OH balanced aromas. International in style, there’s a delicious attack of vanilla and red fruit. Podere Il Palazzino 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($33) 88 Medium ruby plus. Fresh cherry with savory and mint notes. Soft Monteraponi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($ 24) 88 attack of dark fruit with spicy cedar. Slightly tannic mid-palate and Enologist Maurizio Castelli does a masterful job at Azienda Agricola fi nish. Importer: VinDivino , Chicago, Il Monteraponi, located near Radda. This red ruby wine offers aromas of Morello cherry and raspberry followed by fresh and fl avorful red Poggiopiano 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 87 berry fruit, fl avors, medium acidity and soft round tannins on the Winemaker Luca d’Attoma crafts wines from San Casciano in Val di fi nish.. This is a perfect accompaniment to . Pesa fruit. This is a young fl avorful easy drinking Chianti Classico. Medium ruby in color, it offers light black cherry fruit aromas and Monteraponi 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($36) 91 dark cherry fruit fl avors on the palate with soft round tannins and a The 2004 old vines riserva is medium deep ruby fading to the rim fi rm fi nish. with a nose of cherry, cloves and brambly underbrush. The beauty and elegance of this wine is in the mouth, which has layered fl avors Poggiopiano 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($NA) 89 of dark fruit. The dark ruby 2005 Chianti Classico is a little more substantial than the 2006. It offers abundant perfumed black fruit aromas with toasty oak notes and a soft, lush attack. The palate is well-balanced with concentrated black fruit accented by coconut notes.

0 Le Corte Corsini (Principe Corsini). The Corsini family Agricola Querciabella was established in 1974 and has owned the 256 estate Le Corti continuously since 1427. converted to biodynamic agriculture in the year 2000. Its Today, Duccio Corsini is in the process of modernizing the Chianti Classico fruit comes from hilly vineyards as high as 550 winery--Fattoria Le Corti Corsini—and its 49 hectares of vines. meters, some of which are located on Querciabella Mountain, The Corsini family has also had a long involvement in the the source of the Greve River. Low altitude vineyards have more Maremma. In 1759 it introduced agriculture to this previously clay soil and produce relatively low acid wine of great structure. malaria infested swamp. In 1995 the Corsinis planted 18 The high altitude vineyards have rocky, nutrient-poor soil that hectares of vineyards and established the winery known as produces more elegant but less powerful wines of higher acidity. Tenuta Marsiliana, located six miles from the sea. Consultant Winemaker Guido De Santi produces 130 separate lots of winemaker is Carlo Ferrini. Importer: Henriot, New York, NY wine from the low and high altitude portions of 30 different Sangiovese vineyard parcels before blending and bottling. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA Oakland, CA Principe Corsini 2005 Chianti Classico Don Tommaso Tuscany ($36) 92 Selected from the best fruit of all the vineyards and aged 15 months Querciabella 2007 Batar Tuscany ($NA) 91 in mostly new Allier oak, this dark ruby, fl avorful blend of 85% An exotic 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Bianco barrel fermented Sangiovese and 15% Merlot is Le Corti’s fl agship wine. The nose of blend from biodynamic vineyards. Matured in 100% French (50% spicy black cherry and violets introduces a soft rich attack of sweet new) barrels for 9+ months. The wine reaches full maturity about 42 blackberry, graphite and smoke. Beautifully balanced, it fi nishes long months after harvest, and buyers are advised to drink it between 4 with ripe, gripping tannins. and 12 years of age. This unique wine is yellow gold color with an effusive nose of crème caramel. It’s very soft on the honey and vanilla Principe Corsini 2004 Cortevecchia Chianti Classico palate with good balancing acidity. Riserva Tuscany ($NA) 89 Here’s a deep ruby.Chianti Classico in the black fruit style, with Querciabella 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($32) 91 aromas of black fruit, licorice, and spicy wood. The attack is round Medium dark ruby blend of 95% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet and lush with black fruit also on the palate. There’s good grip on the Sauvignon. The grapes are hand-selected in the vineyard, then fi nish. destemmed (but not crushed), and the Sangiovese is macerated 12 days. After full , the wine is put in 100% Principe Corsini 2005 Cortevecchia Chianti Classico French barriques, 30% of which are new. The fi nished wine has Riserva Tuscany ($35) 89 aromas of dark cherry, vanilla, and brambly underbrush and a soft The blend of the Cortevecchia Riserva is the same as that of the palate of high toned plum and raspberry fruit. This well structured regular Chianti Classico. The grapes are the second selection of fruit, wine fi nishes very long and fl avorful with a fi nal bittersweet note. after the Don Tommaso, and aged 16 months in French oak. The bouquet is red and black fruit with touches of graphite and cedar. In Querciabella 2005 Camartina Tuscany ($100) 91 the mouth, there’s a luscious purity of high-toned dark cherry fruit with This medium dark ruby blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and cedar and vanilla notes. Try with venison or duck. 30% Sangiovese is destemmed, fermented whole, and aged 80% new French oak barriques. It is made only in vintages of very high Principe Corsini 2005 Le Corti Chianti Classico Tuscany quality. The wine has a dusty nose of brambles, dark plum, and ($21) 87 blackberry with a bacon note. Delicious bright cherry and cassis fruit The 2005 Chianti Classico is also medium dark ruby in color. It fl avors with notes of raspberry and vanilla erupt on the fi rst sip. This reveals aromas of dried black cherry followed by a soft attack of red benchmark IGT fi nishes with fi rm, ripe tannins. and black fruit fl avors and a rather astringent dry fi nish. Querciabella 2007 Mongana Tuscany ($20) 89 Principe Corsini 2006 Le Corti Chianti Classico Tuscany A blend of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% ($NA) 87 Merlot mostly aged in cement vats with a medium ruby color and a The entry level Chianti of Le Corti is medium dark ruby 95% palate of bright cherry and red plum fruit. A fairly straightforward Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo and Colorino aged 12 months in cement but very fl avorful wine that’s meant to be drunk young. An excellent vats and offering a spicy, black cherry nose. It’s lush and full-fl avored value! with uncomplicated cherry fruit. The fi nish is crisp with good tannic grip.

1 Renzo Marinai - The Azienda Agricola San Martino a Rocca delle Macìe is a large family winery established a little Cecione di Renzo Marinai is a small, 6 hectare vineyard located over 30 years ago by Italo Zingarelli. It possesses 200 hectares near Panzano where organic farming is practiced, including the of vineyards across six estates within and outside of the Chianti planting of oats and fava beans between alternate rows of vines. Classico production zone. Its wines are widely distributed Winemaker Giovanni Cappelli matures Cabernet Sauvignon and through an extensive distribution network both in Italy and Sangiovese separately in botti of 15-20 hectoliters. The wines abroad. Importer: Palm Bay International, Syosset, NY are terroir-driven, provocative, layered and sweet.

Rocca delle Macìe 2006 Chianti Classico Famiglia Renzo Marinai 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($28) 89 Zingarelli Tuscany ($16) 87 This is a dark ruby mix of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet This is a medium ruby, easy drinking wine with raspberry and Sauvignon aged in barriques for six months and offering scents of blackberry aromas and fl oral and spice notes. It shows high acidity tar, black cherry and licorice. There’s excellent depth of very sweet, and fresh fruit fl avors, mainly raspberry with herbal nuances. dark fruit on the palate with uplifting red fruit accents. Shows a lovely, long fi nish of rich black cherry and dark chocolate. Rocca delle Macìe 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Famiglia Zingarelli Tuscany ($25) 88 Renzo Marinai 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany This riserva displays a medium ruby color and light Morello cherry ($47) 90 and sandalwood on the nose. On the palate it offers pure cherry fruit This is a ruby opaque blend of 88% Sangiovese and 12% Cabernet fl avors on with a nice long fi nish. Easy drinking and quite delicious. Sauvignon with aromas of black earth, tar, and roasted meat enveloping a core of sweet dark cherry. Black fl avors of tar, loam, Rocca delle Macìe 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($19) 89 charred wood, minerals, coconut and underlying blackberry fruit One of the better wines from this popular producer consisting of 90% dominate the palate. Finishes with notes of dark cassis and blueberry. Sangiovese, 5% Merlot and 5% Caaniolo. It offers fresh aromas of cherry spice and has youthful fresh fruit fl avors on a light-bodied Renzo Marinai 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany palate. Overall, a nicely integrated wine with a persistent fi nish and ($NA) 88 enjoyable to drink. The 2003 Riserva shows sweet black cherry fruit on the nose. Consistent with the vintage, the palate is sweet and fruit forward, Rocca delle Macìe 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva di with fl avors of ripe plum, earth and mushrooms. It’s not quite as deep Fizzano Tuscany ($37) 87 and layered as later vintages. The opaque ruby, internationally styled Riserva di Fizzano is 85% Sangiovese Grosso, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot with Renzo Marinai 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany a nose of spice, smoke, and dense black fruit. On the plate, it’s soft ($50) 92 textured and rich with smoky black fruit fl avors and prominent sweet The 2001 Riserva is a 90/10 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet oak notes. There are dry wood tannins on the fi nish. Sauvignon that’s ruby garnet in color with a brick rim. An exotic nose of roasted meat, earth, dark fruit, and truffl es leads to a silky palate Rocca delle Macìe 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany that is rich, balanced, and layered with fl avors of earth, leather, ($26) 88 dried plums and licorice. Finishes sweet with notes of earth, minerals, This is a dark ruby, somewhat astringent blend of 90% Sangiovese, and tar. This Brunello-like wine is at its peak. 5% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. There’s white pepper, black fruit and a touch of mint on the nose and earthy, sweet black Renzo Marinai 1999 Vin Santo Chianti Classico Tuscany fruit on the palate. It fi nishes quite dry with nuances of chocolate. ($50 375 ml) 89 Altogether, a very nice wine. This is a unique Vin Santo with fl amboyant caramel aromas and not very sweet fl avors of caramelized sugar. It fi nishes almost dry with Rocca delle Macìe 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva di tangy peach accents. Fizzano Tuscany ($34) 90 This is medium dark ruby with a slight garnet rim and notes of earth and very ripe fruit on the nose. The attack is soft and velvety with complex fl avors of leather, earth, dried fruit and . There are lovely round, fi rm tannins on fi nish. Very nicely made!

Rocca delle Macìe 2006 Chianti Classico Tenuta Sant'Alfonso Tuscany ($24) 89 Deep ruby with aromas of black earth, fl oral notes, and anise and a soft, velvet attack. This wine is very fresh and vibrant with black fruit and spice on the palate. Finishes with ripe, round tannins.

 Rocca di Montegrossi 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 89 Santa Margherita 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($25) 88 The 2006 Chianti Classico is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% The Santa Margherita Chianti Classico is medium dark ruby and Canaiolo. Matured 12 months in Allier oak, it sports a medium light displays aromas of black cherry with a touch of wood spice. Soft on ruby color and aromas of bright red fruit with touches of cinnamon. the attack, it boasts a fl avorful dry palate of red and black fruit with The palate is of medium weight with pure bright red plum fruit, herbs cedar notes. Nicely balanced with some tartness on the fi nish. and baking spice. The wine fi nishes long and sweet with high acidity Importer: Terlato Wines Lake Bluff, IL and good grip. Importer: Elite Brands USA, Kalamazoo, MI and K&L Imports, Sensi 2005 Chianti Classico Passonero Tuscany ($25) 89 Redwood City, CA The 2005 Passonero is a showy wine that displays a dark ruby color with very ripe aromas of dark cherry fruit and earthy notes. The Rocca di Montegrossi 2004 Geremia IGT Tuscany ($45) 91 attack is round and robust and the palate, rich and concentrated. The Geremia is a modern international blend of 60% Cabernet This is a full-fl avored, complex wine, with juicy black fruit, toasty oak, Sauvignon and 40% Merlot and is matured 18 months in moderately and a big long-lasting fi nish. Importer: New England Wine & Spirits toasted Allier barriques. Deep ruby purple, it offers a spicy nose West Haven, CT of red and black fruit and toasty oak. It has a ripe, rich palate of concentrated fruit, charred oak and bitter chocolate that fi nishes with Tenimenti Angelini 2004 Chianti Classico San Leonino nice gripping tannins. Importer: Elite Brands USA, Kalamazoo, MI Tuscany ($18) 87 and K&L Imports, Redwood City, CA This Chianti Classico from Tenimenti Angelini is sourced from their San Leonino estate in . Dark ruby in color, it Rocca di Montegrossi 2004 Chianti Classico Vigneto San emits aromas of red fruit and sandalwood. Soft on the attack and Marcellino Tuscany ($50) 91 light-bodied with red and black fruit on the palate. it is made for easy The 2004 Vigneto San Marcellino is 100% Sangiovese, matured drinking. The wine's tannic grip on the fi nish will do well with food. 18 months in Allier oak. Dark ruby in color it displays purity of dark Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd. St. Helena, CA red berry fruit with scents of cigar box and smoke. The palate is soft, silky and beautifully balanced offering fl avors of black fruit and Tenimenti Angelini 2003 San Leonino Chianti Classico cocoa that is like sweet chocolate covered cherries. There is good Tuscany ($35) 89 overall acidity and persistence of fruit fl avors on the fi nish. A superb The more mature 2003 San Leonino is dark ruby garnet and reveals wine. Importer: Elite Brands USA, Kalamazoo, MI and K&L Imports, aromas of ripe red berry fruit and toasted oak. Following a soft Redwood City, CA attack, the palate shows pure black cherry fruit, good balance, persistent fl avors, and tannic grip on the fi nish. Importer: Wilson Rodano 2001 Viacosta Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany Daniels Ltd. St. Helena, CA ($50) 90 Winemaker, Guilio Gambelli, crafts this lovely 100% Sangiovese Tenuta di Nozzole 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva, Vigneto wine, aging 60% of the wine in Slovenian bottes and 40% in French La Forra Tuscany ($50) 88 barriques, half of which are new. The Riserva Viacosta is produced The Vigneto La Forra is currently in a youthful stage of development only in exceptional vintages. This is a very nice, medium dark ruby as revealed in its opaque ruby color and purple rim. On the nose it wine with a nose of smoky oak and roasted meat with hints of wet leaf reveals lovely blackberry, cassis, and violet aromas with toasted oak from 45 year old Castellina vines. There’s sweet dark red cherry with nuances. On the palate, its fruit is ripe, savory and concentrated with dark chocolate notes on the palate, and it fi nishes clean with good notes of leather and cedar. Its tannins are round and the fi nish, while fl avors and gripping tannins. Importer: Enotec Imports, Denver, CO somewhat austere, is long lasting and pleasant. Importer: Kobrand Corporation Purchase, NY Rodano 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 87 The Chianti Classico exhibits a medium dark ruby color with a Tenuta di Nozzole 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany meat, toasty oak, and black and red fruit aromas. Soft on the attack, ($30) 89 it offers a lightly fruited palate of black fruit and oak fl avors with The bigger Tenuta di Nozzole Riserva is deep ruby with a garnet prominent tannins and a short fi nish. Enotec Imports Denver, CO tinged rim and exhibits aromas of ripe, black cherry fruit with a touch of espresso. Soft and velvety on the attack, it offers rich black fruit San Guisto a Rentennano 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany on the palate with notes of espresso and balsamic. Its tannins are ($33) 89 round and ripe with some grip on the fi nish. A lovely wine. Importer: This high performing estate has produced an attractive modern Kobrand Corporation Purchase, NY Chianti Classico made from a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Caniolo grapes. Medium ruby in color it offers bright, fresh red berry fruit and cedar on the nose and soft and fruity mature red fruit, chocolate and spice on the palate. While not complex, the wine is well-rounded, easy to drink, and delicious. Importer: VinDivino , Chicago, Il

3 Terrabianca 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Croce Tuscany Riseccoli is a high performing family estate located in Greve ($32) 89 that was founded by Romano Romanelli, a well-known Florentine A medium ruby blend of 97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo aged 15 artist. Its vineyards consist of 38 acres, half of which are of old months in Slovenian oak barrels with a reticent nose of dark cherry, vines Importer: Vias New York, NY pepper and ash. The medium weight and harmonious palate shows pure dark cherry fruit and a lovely, fruit-driven fi nish.

Tenuta di Riseccoli 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($32) 90 Terrabianca 2006 Scassino Chianti Classico Tuscany ($28) 88 The 2006 Chianti Classico is a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 5% A medium light ruby, predominantly Sangiovese wine aged 8 months Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. Aged for 12 months in cement in Slovenian oak that shows fresh pure cherry fruit with raspberry vats and partially in French oak barriques, it exhibits an opaque ruby notes that carries over to the light palate. Light and fruity enough to color with aromas of highly concentrated red and black fruit and serve chilled on a hot summer day. violets. On the palate it offers ripe black fruit fl avors with a touch of licorice and creosote. A big wine with fi rm tannins and a lingering Toscolo 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 88 fi nish that will improve with age. The modern style Toscolo is dark ruby in color and offers fragrant aromas of black fruit, sweet oak and vanilla. On the palate it reveals Tenuta di Riseccoli 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany more dark fruit which is nicely integrated with oak combined with ($58) 92 a touch of tar and black pepper. Long lasting on the fi nish, it is a The 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva is a richer and riper version of pleasure to drink. Importer: Empson USA Inc Alexandria, VA the Chianti Classico, consisting of the same blend but spends 15-18 months in two to three-year old barriques. Deep ruby to the core, Toscolo 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscay ($28) 87 it reveals ripe red fruit, lightly toasted oak and a minty note. It is A blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% soft and velvety in the mouth with ripe fruit fl avors, round tannins, Merlot, the Toscolo Riserva is aged in large oak casks for 12 months beautiful balance, and a long fi nish. A terrifi c wine! and 6 months in barrique. It displays a medium ruby color and a rustic nose of roasted meat with a touch of light cherry. Soft and medium weight on the palate, it offers light red cherry fruit and a Terrabianca. In the late 1980s, Roberto Guldener began his nice long fi nish. Importer: Empson USA Inc., Alexandria, VA winemaking adventure at Terrabianca, producing the fi rst vintage in 1988 from the existing vines. Today all the vineyards—about 2004 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($22) 87 14 hectares in Chianti Classico--have been replanted, and This medium dark ruby Chianti Classico exhibits muted dark fruit new vineyards have been established in the Maremma. His aromas with notes of chocolate and espresso. On the palate it offers philosophy about wine is refl ected in his natural winemaking a fl avorful attack of ripe black fruit, cola, leather and earth. While techniques, including fermentation in outside tanks with no slightly tannic, the wine is quite attractive. Importer: AV Brands temperature control, a traditional but today uncommon practice Columbia, MD in Chianti. Importer: Empson USA Inc Alexandria, VA Valiano 2003 Chianti Classico Poggio Teo Tuscany ($28) 86 Medium dark ruby and earthy in character, the 2003 Chianti Terrabianca 2005 Campaccio Tuscany ($46) 91 Classico Poggio Teo exhibits ripe plum and spice aromas. Traditional Campaccio is a medium ruby blend of 70% Sangiovese, 30% in style, it offers red and black fruit and slightly bitter earthy notes Cabernet Sauvignon from Chianti Classico and the Maremma aged on the palate and round tannins on the fi nish. Importer: AV Brands 12 months in French and American oak barriques. It has a medium Columbia, MD ruby color with a penetrating nose of red and black fruit and spices and a suave palate of pure dark cherry, blackberry and smoke. Fresh Vèscine 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($22) 87 from beginning to the fi rmly tannic fi nish. The Vescine Chianti Classico is a medium dark ruby blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Canaiolo. It offers aromas of black cherry Terrabianca 2004 Campaccio Riserva Tuscany ($75) 92 fruit with touches of forest fl oor. Soft on the attack it reveals rather This dark ruby blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Sangiovese sweet and earthy black fruit on the palate with a rather tannic fi nish. aged 24 months in French and American oak barriques has a very Importer: New England Wine & Spirits West Haven, CT fresh bouquet of black and red fruit, vanilla, and raspberry perfume. Superbly balanced and concentrated on the palate with tongue- Vèscine 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Lodolaio Tuscany coating tannins and bitter chocolate on the fi nish. ($30) 88 A blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, and 10% Merlot, this medium ruby garnet Chianti emits aromas of perfumed rose petals and red berry fruit. Medium weight, the palate offers delicate red fruit fl avors with good acidity and balance. Importer: New England Wine & Spirits West Haven, CT

4 Vignamaggio 2006 Chianti Classico Gherardino Tuscany Villa Mangiacane 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($28) 88 ($23) 87 Medium dark ruby, this stylish Chianti Classico displays high toned The dark ruby Chianti Classico Gherardino displays aromas of red aromas of violet, plum, and a touch of herbs. International in style, and black fruit with a touch of cedar. On the palate it is very ripe and it is full- bodied on the palate with well integrated dark fruit fl avors meaty with a round mouth feel and persistent fi nish. Importer: Bedford and touches of vanilla and cocoa. It is also nicely structured and well International Larchmont, NY balanced with a long lasting fi nish that will provide lots of pleasure. Importer: Palm Bay International Syosset, NY Vignamaggio 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Monna Lisa Tuscany ($16) 85 Villa Mangiacane 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany The Monna Lisa is a traditionally styled, medium dark ruby with high ($38) 89 toned aromas of violet, plum, balsamic and a touch of herbs. It’s full A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino, this medium dark bodied on the palate with great balance and fl avors of dark fruit with ruby garnet Chianti Classico displays aromas of ripe black cherries, a touch of cocoa. Importer: Bedford International Larchmont, NY violets, and toasted oak. International in style, it is ripe, round and fl avorful with a slightly spicy, hot and dry fi nish. Importer: Palm Bay Villa Calcinaia 2005 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($20) 89 International Syosset, NY Medium ruby with a garnet rim, this lovely and somewhat earthy Chianti Classico produced by the Capponi family at Villa Calcinaia emits intriguing aromas of dried cherry, ash and leather. On the palate it offers very soft and lush dark fruit fl avors, backed with good acidity and fi rm tannins. Overall, it is a well-balanced and delicious wine. Importer: The Marchetti Co. Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Villa Calcinaia 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($33) 87 The riserva is a blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot. It is opaque ruby with super ripe blackberry-like aromas and savory notes. On the mid-palate it shows concentrated black fruit with a touch of licorice and tea and a very dry long-lasting fi nish. Importer: The Marchetti Co. Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Villa Cerna 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($24) 88 This Chianti Classico Riserva displays a deep ruby color with aromas of plum, violets, leather and earth. It is traditional in style with a rich and spicy palate combining black cherry, tobacco and cocoa. It has excellent acidity with rounded and slightly dry tannins. Importer: Banfi Old Brookville, New York

Villa di Geggiano 2006 Chianti Classico Tuscany ($26) 90 The 2006 Chianti Classico is a lovely blend of roughly 97% Sangiovese and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays a brilliant dark ruby color and has a soft perfumed Morello cherry nose. On the palate it reveals more pure and ripe red fruit with lovely balance and a long, dry, tannic fi nish.

Villa di Geggiano 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Tuscany ($32) 88 The Villa di Greggiano Chianti Classico is a blend of roughly 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark ruby in color, it emits a perfumed bouquet of dried fl owers, herbs, and red and black fruit. It also reveals ripe dark fruit with a touch of vanilla on a light and slightly astringent palate. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant Berkeley, California

5 MAP OF TUSCANY

Map courtesy of Kobrand Corporation – www.kobrandwines.com.”

26 The i-WineReview is published by the International Wine Review, LLC. Our office is located at 6625 Old Chesterbrook Road, McLean, Virginia 22101. Our email is: [email protected] Our European Coordinator, Miguel Reinares, is located in Logroño, Spain and can be reached at [email protected]

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27 WINE REPORTS

Issue 1 California Petite Sirah (September 2005)

Issue 2 Red Table Wines of Portugal (January 2006)

Issue 3 Wines of Australia, California, France and Spain (May 2006)

Issue 4 Syrah: California, Washington Sate and Oregon Wines (September 2006)

Issue 5 : Argentina's Magnificent Malbec (December 2006)

Issue 6 The Wines of : From Quantity to Quality (March 2007)

Special Report Red Wines of Portugal: The Douro Boys and Barca Velha (June 2007)

Issue 7 New Zealand's Exciting Pinot Noirs (July 2007)

Issue 8 The Wines of (September 2007)

Issue 9 (December 2007)

Issue 10 Unoaked Chardonnay: It More Than Wood (February 2008)

Issue 11 2005 Bordeaux Crus Bourgeois (April 2008)

Issue 12 California Petite Sirah II-Syrah Update: California and the Northwest-Selections from California and Washington State (June 2008)

Issue 13 The Wines of : Classical and New Wave (August 2008)

Special Report Introduction to Sherry (October, 2008)

Issue 14 The World of Sparkling Wines and Champagne (December 2008)