The International Wine Review February 2009 Report # 15 The Wines of Chianti Classico Introduction In this Issue Chianti is one of the oldest and most famous brand names in the wine world. With the highly acclaimed 2006 vintage now released to the public, renewed attention is being paid to this historic Introduction ...........................................................1 wine. However, Chianti’s fame has not always coincided with the Acknowledgements ................................................2 production of high quality wines, and the adoption of the name Chianti by wineries located outside the historical production area in History of Chianti Classico ......................................3 Tuscany has created confusion for consumers and diluted the value of the brand. The creation of the Chianti Classico Denominazione di Chianti: The Region and the Wine ..........................4 Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) in 1996 was an attempt by growers in the original Chianti region to resurrect the quality of the Sangiovese, the Grape ...........................................4 wine by introducing rigorous standards for growing and producing In the Vineyard ......................................................5 Chianti Classico. This effort is now bearing fruit, so to speak, as born out by our tasting notes at the end of this report. The quality Winemaking in Chianti Classico ..............................6 of Chianti Classico is on the rise with the best yet to come. It is a unique, fruit-driven wine of real character with the acidity and tannic Chianti Classico, the Wine ......................................6 backbone that makes it a food wine par excellence. Vintages ...............................................................7 Given these changes, it’s fair to ask, “What is Chianti Classico Pairing Chianti Classico with Food ...........................8 today?” In this, the 15th report of the International Wine Review, we attempt to answer this question. We start by summarizing The Market for Chianti Classico .............................10 the long, illustrious, history of winemaking in Chianti. Perhaps in no other region of the world can one fi nd wine estates that have The Tasting Notes .................................................10 produced wine for close to a thousand years. Given the wide, and historically inaccurate, use of the term Chianti and the use of Chianti’s principal grape Sangiovese to produce wine throughout Tuscany, we also locate Chianti Classico in the broader context of Tuscan wines made with Sangiovese. We discuss the unique characteristics of the Sangiovese grape, the improvements which have taken place in Chianti viticulture and winemaking, and the pairing of Chianti Classico with traditional Tuscan cuisine. We also So, what is Chianti Classico today? It is not only the original examine the important role of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico in production area for Chianti but, also, the unique and fl avorful bringing about the renaissance of Chianti Classico. No where else Sangiovese-based wine produced by the many talented winemakers in the world have we found a regulatory body that has had such a of this region. Like Bordeaux, Chianti Classico is almost always profound, and positive, impact on a wine. a blend of varietals. Given the variety of micro-climates, soils, and elevations within Chianti, one fi nds wines that are diverse, To help answer the question “What is Chianti Classico today?” we ranging from elegant, red cherry fl avored wines produced from high traveled to Tuscany to become familiar with the vineyards, wineries altitude fruit to meaty, smoky riservas with a distinct brambly, black and often colorful winemakers of the region. With the generous fruit character, often made from lower altitude fruit. This range of assistance of the Consorzio, we tasted over 250 wines in America fl avors, combined with the relatively high acidity characteristic of the and in Tuscany over a two month period in late 2008. Extensive Sangiovese grape, means Chianti can be married to a wide variety tasting notes on these wines are given at the end of this report and of foods, showing a special ethereality when paired with Tuscan on our website www.i-winereview.com. dishes. Chianti Classico has defi nite character and personality. 1 Acknowledgements Several individuals and organizations contributed to this report. We would especially like to thank Silvia Fiorentini, Simone Fabbrini, and Daniel Rosellini, of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico. Neil Empson of Neil Empson Imports helped us understand the changes in Chianti Classico over the past two decades. Edoardo Fioravanti provided valuable advice and insight. Numerous winemakers and their staff warmly received us on our visit to Tuscany and were extremely generous with their time and hospitality. Edward M. Korry, MA CWE, Department Chairman, Beverage and Dining Service, Johnson and Wales University, Providence, RI, educated us on pairing Chianti with Tuscan cuisine. Kobrand Corporation kindly allowed us to reproduce the map of Tuscany created by artist Michael Juhn. Also, this report would not have been possible without the full cooperation of the importers and distributors who provided us with wine samples. Finally, we would like to thank the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico for its informative website www.chianticlassico.com. Michael Potashnik Publisher, International Wine Review Donald Winkler Editor, International Wine Review Our Recommendations We tasted over 250 Chianti Classicos from vintages ranging from 1990 to 2006. Most of these are wonderful wines, but some stand out as exceptional. Here’s our list of highly rated wines—scoring above 90 points.— from currently available vintages. An (*) indicates a wine of not only excellent quality but, also, exceptional value, with a recommended retail price of $35 or less. Highly Rated Castello di Monsanto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio ....................................94 points Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia ...........................................................93 points Principe Corsini 2005 Chianti Classico Don Tommaso ................................................92 points *Felsina 2005 Chianti Classico ...............................................................................92 points Le Cinciole 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Petresco....................................................92 points Castello di Volpaia 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Coltassala .....................................92 points Tenuta di Riseccoli 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva ......................................................92 points Castello di Fonterutoli 2005 Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli .............................92 points *Castello D’Albola 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva .....................................................91 points Barone Ricasoli 2004 Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio ............................................91 points *Brancaia 2006 Chianti Classico ............................................................................91 points Capannelle 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva ...............................................................91 points Castello di Meleto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Casi .....................................91 points Castello di Monsanto 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio ....................................91 points Castello di Querceto 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Picchio .....................................91 points *Fontodi 2005 Chianti Classico ..............................................................................91 points *Querciabella 2006 Chianti Classico ......................................................................91 points Rocca di Montegrossi 2004 Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino ..........................91 points 2 History of Chianti Classico Important Dates in Chianti Classico Riddle # 1: When is Chianti not Chianti? Year Action Answer: When it’s Chianti Classico. 1398 First recorded written reference to Chianti wine It’s impossible to defi ne Chianti Classico without making reference to its history. The name Chianti dates from the 14th century when 1716 Grand Duke Cosimo III establishes original Chianti zone it was fi rst used to refer to wine produced in the region located between the Pesa and Arbia rivers and including the communes of 1874 Barone Bettino Ricasoli proposes Chianti formula, including white grapes Radda, Castellina and Gaiole. In 1716, the Grand Duke Cosimo III issued his famous decree formally creating a slightly enlarged Chianti 1924 Creation of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico region including the Greve commune. This region is very similar in shape and size to today’s Chianti Classico. 1932 Ministerial decree establishes Chianti production zone, including Chianti Classico—the original Chianti zone The next important date in 1967 Chianti DOC created & Barone Ricasoli’s formula made law Chianti’s history is 1932. The fame of Chianti wine 1984 Chianti (and Chianti Classico) granted DOCG status and had led to growers in other new rules introduced to raise quality regions of Tuscany labeling their wine as “Chianti”. This 1987 Chianti Classico 2000 Project initiated under Carlos Ferrini practice was formalized 1996 Chianti Classico granted its own DOCG status and stringent in 1932 with a ministerial rules adopted to improve quality. decree enlarging Chianti to include seven distinct 2006 White grapes no longer allowed