Culinary Chronicles The Newsletter of the Culinary Historians of Canada AUTUMN 2010 NUMBER 66 “Indian method of fishing on Skeena River,” British Columbia Dominion Illustrated Monthly, August 4, 1888 (Image courtesy of Mary Williamson) ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Contents President’s Message: We are now the In a Circular Line It All Comes Back Culinary Historians of Canada! 2 Vivien Reiss 16, 18 Members’ News 2 An Ode to Chili Sauce Indigenous Foodways of Northern Ontario Margaret Lyons 17, 18, 21 Connie H. Nelson and Mirella Stroink 3–5 Book Reviews: Speaking of Food, No. 2: More than Pachamama Caroline Paulhus 19 Pemmican: First Nations’ Food Words Foodies: Democracy and Distinction Gary Draper 6–8 in the Gourmet Foodscape Tea with an Esquimaux Lady 8 Anita Stewart 20 First Nation’s Ways of Cooking Fish 9 Just Add Shoyu Margaret Lyons 21 “It supplied such excellent nourishment” Watching What We Eat Dean Tudor 22 – The Perception, Adoption and Adaptation Punched Drunk Dean Tudor 22–23 of 17th-Century Wendat Foodways by the CHC Upcoming Events 23 French Also of Interest to Members 23 Amy Scott 10–15 About CHC 24 Lapin Braisé et Têtes de Violon 15 2 Culinary Chronicles _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ President’s Message: We are now the Culinary Historians of Canada! Thank you to everyone who voted on our recent resolution to change the Culinary Historians of Ontario to the Culinary Historians of Canada. This important decision deserved a vote from the whole membership, and it was well worth the effort of distributing and counting ballots. Just over 60% of members cast their ballots, favouring by a wide margin of 4:1 to change the organization's name. The new Culinary Historians of Canada is much like the former CHO, which has always welcomed members from all provinces. But with a name that matches our intentions, an invitation for people throughout the country to join a national culinary discussion may seem more authentic. We hope so. We hope that food history enthusiasts in all provinces and territories of Canada will feel at home as members of the CHC. We hope that people from Victoria to St. John's to Grise Fiord will share their particular food heritage and enliven a sense of Canadian food history in us all. After all, you don't have to live in PEI to love Malpeque oysters, nor to be French-Canadian to be interested in what makes real poutine. And while I don't live in Western Canada, I still want to know about its culinary history. I think a lot of our members do too. So tell your friends, wherever they live, that the Culinary Historians of Canada is stepping up to the plate (that's a sports reference, but it really should be a food reference) to create a national discussion about our favourite topic: Canadian food. Tell your local historic sites. Ask them if they've ever considered hosting a CHC event or lecture. Encourage your friends to discover us at www.culinaryhistorians.ca. Write an article about your food history, and help us make it part of Canadian food history. Eat well, Bob Wildfong, President of CHC _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Members’ News Congratulations to two CHC members who won awards at the 2010 Canadian Culinary Book Awards, sponsored by Cuisine Canada and the University of Guelph: LEFT: Cuisine Canada’s Founders Award is given on occasion to those Canadians who have achieved a lifetime of service to the culinary community of Canada. They may be come from any field of culinary endeavour. This year’s recipient of is Elizabeth Baird. RIGHT: Silver winner in the English Canadian Food Culture Category, books that best illustrate Canada’s rich culinary heritage and food culture, was Nathalie Cooke, editor, What's To Eat? Entrées in Canadian Food History, McGill-Queen's University Press, Montreal and Kingston. Also, Dorothy Duncan has a new book out, called Feasting and Fasting: Canada’s Heritage Celebrations. See page 23. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Autumn 2010 Number 66 Culinary Chronicles 3 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Indigenous Foodways of Northern Ontario Connie H. Nelson and Mirella Stroink Connie Nelson is a Professor in the School of Social Work and Director of the Food Security Research Network at Lakehead University. Mirella Stroink is a member of the Network and an Associate Professor in the Department of Psychology at Lakehead University. Lakehead University has campuses in Thunder Bay and Orillia, Ontario. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Aboriginal peoples of Canada historically had of this huge garden. Trade, industry, and its local food systems and food sovereignty where protocols existed prior to colonial aspirations. food access and availability were dictated not by Specifically, in Northern Ontario the confluence policies, land ownership, and technology but by of the western edge of the Great Lakes (Lake natural rhythms of climate, evolving ecological Superior), the headwaters of the Mississippi landscapes, and self-propagation and self- watershed, and the river pathways to Lake selected hybridization. Sustainability was a Winnipeg and westwards, is considered the matter of survival. Today, some of these highway 401 of culinary trade. Food plants Aboriginal foods define Canada’s unique indigenous to North America – potato, maize, culinary food identity internationally with such beans, and squash – easily travelled northwards epicurean delicacies as caribou, moose, brook to be integrated with northern indigenous food trout, pickerel, blueberries, and wild rice. plants zizania aquatic (wild rice), vaccinium angustifolium (lowbush blueberry), and At one time, this North American land was vaccinium myrtilloides (bilberry). considered by Aboriginal peoples to be one big garden, with no separation of cultivated and Traditionally, the whole social and family forest food sources. The practice of burning structure of Aboriginal peoples found its cultivated forest ‘gardens,’ for example, by expression in the natural world. Blueberry or encouraging blueberries and cranberries to renew miinan is the central fruit of Anishnawbe peoples their vigour. These lush gardens also attracted and wild rice or man-o-min is the central grain. edible animal food sources. Humans, plants, and Large stands of wild rice have been present in animals co-evolved in a culinary symbiotic northwestern Ontario for at least 2,500 years, ecological relationship. Aboriginal peoples with human consumption documented as early as traded with one another on our water highways in 1,000 years ago (Lee, 1986). Similarly, blue- berries are a circumpolar boreal plant that is Typical culinary scene of community food thought to have emerged very quickly with the sharing in northern Ontario receding of the ice age across North America 10,000 years ago. Both blueberries and wild rice (Photograph courtesy of Connie Nelson) are culinary plants of social significance – harvested, processed, and consumed at family and clan events. Neither crop is acquired through a solitary process: many indigenous cultural values, such as co-operative clan and community sharing and respecting the natural environment to maintain food sources for future needs, have emerged through finding and gathering foods. The common characteristic of all historic culinary Aboriginal foodways is their presence in the natural environment without initial intervention. Wild rice is self-propagating; blueberries continue to elude stable classification ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Autumn 2010 Number 66 4 Culinary Chronicles _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Typical of local food sources was diminished when smoke house generations of youth were forced to be teepee in educated in a residential school system northern outside of their communities. Ontario • Residential school experiences that gave rise (Photograph to many negative associations with courtesy of gardening, with memories of forced work in Connie acquisition of local food sources, abuse, and Nelson) negative reinforcements for behavioural outcomes. • Establishment of the reserve system through the Indian Act of 1867 that created land boundaries that are out of sync with hunting and harvesting territories. People are limited since their multiploidal characteristics of cross- to hunting and gathering within their own pollination and reproduction ensure high treaty areas. adaptability as long as the pH is acidic. Fish and animal meat sources fluctuated due to natural • High costs of necessities needed to hunt, fish, variations in age of the forest cover and in or trap that can interfere with access to rainfall, but were readily available. Additionally, potentially available food sources. For all of these notable aboriginal culinary foods – example, there is the high cost of guns, moose, caribou, fish, blueberries, and wild rice – shells, gear, blinds, decoys, fishing gear, can be preserved through smoking, solar drying, boats, motors,