ISSUE 15 www.appetitemag.co.uk MAY/JUNE 2013 T ICKLE YOUR tasteBUDS... Bouillabaisse Lovely lobster Succulent squid Salmon salsa Monkfish ‘n’ mash All marine life is here... 1 ers seafood 2 great of and eat it Scan this code with your mobile H OOKED ON FISH? SO WHAT WILL YOUR ENVIRONMENTAL device to access the latest news CONSCIENCE ALLOW YOU TO LAND ON YOUR PLATE? on our website inside coastal capers // girl butcher // pan porn // garden greens // just desserts // join the Club PLACE YOUR Editor and committed ORDER 4 CLUB pescatarian struggles with Great places, great offers her environmental conscience. 7 FEED...BacK Tuna yes, basa no. Confused! Reader recipes and news 8 GIRL ABOUT TOON Our lady Laura’s adventures in food A veteran eco-campaigner (well, I went The upshot is that the whole thing is on a Save the Whale march when I was a minefield, but it’s a minefield I am 9 it’s A DATE a student) I like to consider myself fully determined to negotiate without losing any Fab places to tour and taste PEOPLE OF au fait with what one should and should limbs, so the Marine Conservation Society not buy and/or eat in order to keep one’s graphic is now safely tucked in my back 10 VEG WITH KEN social and environmental conscience intact. pocket, to be studied before purchasing Our new columnist Unfortunately, when it comes to fish, this anything which qualifies as a fish. I hope Ken Holland’s garden JESMOND causes extreme confusion, to the extent that this will widen my list of fish-it’s-okay- that I have frequently considered giving up to-eat; a list which has diminished alarmingly 19 GIRL BUTCHER my pescatarian ways altogether, basically in recent years for want of proper guidance. Charlotte Harbottle’s terrific terrine because it makes my head hurt. & GOSFORTH Fortunately, there is no conscience-wrestling 20 KITCHEN KIT An example - until last week, I was necessary when considering the purchase Kit for creative cooks convinced that cod was off the menu of vegetables, in celebration of which we because of dwindling stocks. Now I learn welcome our new columnist, micro veg 22 THE GRAZER that our own North Sea cod is very much grower Ken Holland. Give Ken a handful of Anna’s living below the line on the menu (according to the Marine seeds and he will give you a feast for the DABBAWAL Conservation Society graphic at eyes and the palate, which makes him an 24 STaR MAN www.informationisbeautiful.net). Icelandic eco hero in his In the kitchen with James Close and Baltic cod is a ‘maybe’, however, as is own right. And IS COMING TO basa, which I had considered good to go. you can eat his 26 HOOKED! We all know it’s a crime to eat yellowtail baby leaves with a Coastal travels with top fish chefs tuna and any tuna caught on a longline, clear conscience, A PLACE NEAR but albacore and skipjack tuna caught on apart from the fact 30 HEALTHY APPETITE a pole, and skeine-caught big eye tuna are that they are so Cheryl’s burger vs Gwynneth’s greens Jane Pikett, Editor in the ‘yes’ section. I’m amazed! We haven’t little and cute. Oh, YOU SOON ... had tuna in our house for a good decade. endless dilemmas! 32 FRENCH FANCY Jérôme Cogné’s gone fishing 33 SDIG THI Alastair Gilmour’s watching the clock We want to hear all about the food and drink you 34 PAN PORN appetite.T ICKLE YOUR taste BUDS... love in the North East, Cooking with cookshop queen Jess Stanger which means you can get fully involved in the Editorial 01661 844 115 38 LUNCH region’s only dedicated Jane Pikett - [email protected] The importance of being Wilde... Be a fan! food magazine. Advertising 01661 844 115 40 THE DIARY If you like something, we want to know Joanne O’neil - [email protected] Beautiful people, beautiful places about it, so tell us. Better still, take a picture and send it to us. Website www.appetitemag.co.uk 41 SUPPER Designed & Published by The etiquette of sharing at the table And if you cook something you’re proud of (or something you’re not!) email us a photo 46 JUST DESSERTS and a description and we might even put it Chocolate indulgence on our Facebook page or in the magazine. Unit One, Bearl Farm, Stocksfield, Northumberland, NE43 7AL Fame at last! STREET FOOD PIONEERS OF THE NORTH EAST Photography email [email protected] Peter Skelton www.photo-psp.co.uk Nicky Rogerson www.nrphotography.co.uk 1505 Dabbawal.indd 48 25/04/2013 15:57 appetite SAUSAGES! The generous folk at Northumberland Sausage Company are kindly offering appetite readers a Northumberland lamb and Northumberland award winning farm shop and café goat goodie box containing chops, joints, burgers, liver and gourmet creations for £50 (usual price £70) and free p+p. To buy, contact Northumberland Sausage Company through its website, which features an online shop and details of sausage-making courses. Offer valid until June 10 2013, quote APPETITE 15 Club www.northumberlandsausagecompany.com Michelangelos THE TRUE TASTE OF THE MEDITERRANEAN... At Knitsley we pride ourselves on our farm butchery which is at the heart of our business! We offer high quality beef, lamb and traditional rare breed pork alongside award winning bacon, HAPPY HOUR sausage and our own cured gammons and ham. Mon to Sat 12 - 7pm, All day Sunday We are renowned for our Pork, Huntsman and meat pies 3 COURSE SPECIALS £5.45 and home produced Corned Beef, terrines and pastrami Potato Skins or Soup In our shop you’ll fi nd a superb selection of cheeses, fruit, Selected Pizza or Pasta vegeatable, jams, pickles and much more! WIN! SUNDAY LUNCH Ice Cream or Coffee Home made bread and cakes are always available AT ESHOTT HALL created by our artisan baker Kevin MEDITERRANEAN TAPAS Why not visit our cosy cafe where all our meals Eshott Hall in Northumberland is offering a lucky appetite reader the Free BOTTLE OF wine are freshly prepared using our own products opportunity to win Sunday lunch for two. AT BOUCHON 3 COURSE SUNDAY LUNCH We look forward to see you a warm welcome awaits! Awarded a prestigious AA Rosette, head chef Chris Wood and his team are OPEN ALL BANK HOLIDAY’S KNITSLEY FARM SHOP renowned for their creative menus starring seasonal and local produce, much Appetite readers are in for a treat at the fantastic Bouchon Bistrot East Knitlsey Grange Farm, Knitsley, of it from Eshott’s own kitchen garden. in Hexham, where you qualify for a free bottle of house wine for PRIVATE FUNCTIONS CATERED FOR! Consett DH8 9EW The Sunday menu features such gems as estate rabbit rillettes and pease a table of four, or a half bottle for a table of two, every Monday Open Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 5pm pudding with sage toast to start, Ingram Valley lamb shank with shallot mash, Stella Road, Hill Top, Dipton Sunday 10am - 4pm evening until June 10, 2013. roast beetroot and rosemary jus, and warm ginger pudding, vanilla ice cream Ryton Stanley (Just a few minutes away from Consett Town Centre) French-owned and run, Bouchon is a classic country bistrot (hence NE21 4LU DH9 9JY Tel: 01207 592059 with brandy butterscotch sauce. Eshott Hall is an elegant country hotel the classic French spelling, with a ‘t’) where the menus from head www.knitsleyfarmshop.co.uk Tel: 0191 4132921 01207 571040 situated in spectacular country between Morpeth and Alnwick. chef Jerome Cogne feature classics such as escargots with garlic To win Sunday lunch at Eshott Hall, email your answer to the and parsley butter, oxtail terrine, French onion soup, clafoutis aux following question to [email protected] by June 10, 2013 cerises, tarte tatin, and crème caramel. Q: What is the nearest city to Eshott? Bouchon is fresh and uncomplicated, created from the finest The winner will be notified by email produce, served simply and in season in the traditional French way. Eshott Hall, Eshott, Morpeth, Northumberland NE65 9EN Appetite readers qualify for a complimentary bottle of house tel 01670 787 454, www.eshotthall.co.uk wine per table of four, or a half bottle for a table of two on production of this page or a print-out of this offer from the appetite website www.appetitemag.co.uk Please quote Appetite when booking. Offer valid Monday evenings until June WIN! AFTernOON TEA FOR THE PERFECT PLACE TO RELAX...FROM EVERY ANGLE!! 15, 2013 (subject to availability) FOUR AT THE RUNNING FOX Bouchon, Gilesgate, Hexham, NE46 3NJ, tel 01434 609 943 www.bouchonbistrot.co.uk We love The Running Fox Cafe in Felton, where master baker Neville produces all manner of gorgeous breads including stilton & walnut, and olive (too tasty!) and his business partner Kris creates all manner of amazing meals in the kitchen. In addition to the superb range of artisan FREE BROCKSBUSHES BAG breads, the cafe menu includes lunches (including historic Sunday roasts), wonderful pies, fantastic patisserie, cakes and scones, and of The award-winning farmshop at Brocksbushes Farm in Stocksfield is course the fab afternoon tea. offering appetite readers a free Brocksbushes jute bag when they The Running Fox is by the river, licensed to sell newspapers and spend £10, or a free cooler bag or picnic rug when they spend £25. stocks a small range of locally sourced produce and gifts. It has been In addition to the range of fresh farm grown produce, Brocksbushes something of a local sensation since it opened last summer and to offers a comprehensive range of in-season and exotic fresh fruit and keep up with demand it is now expanding upstairs, so, fingers crossed, vegetables.