130512213.23.Pdf

ABS.1.7S.37?

THE

VINTNER, AND SPIRIT DEALER’S

CONTAINING A GREAT VARIETY OF THE MOST APPROVED RECIPES, FOR THE MAKING, MIXING, MANAGING, FLAVOURING, COLOURING, AND BOTTLING,

FOREIGN AND BRITISH SPIRITS, PORTER, AND ALES. ADAPTED TO EVERY BRANCH OF THE WINE, PORTER, ALE, AND SPIRIT TRADE.

BY ALEXANDER PEDDIE, Author of the Cottonand Linen Weaver’s Assistant, Practical Measurer,’

©la^gnln, PUBLISHED BY KHULL, BLACKIE, & CO. AND ARCHIBALD FULLARTON & CO. EDINBURGH. 1835. ENTERED IN STATIONERS HALL.

O' B THE FOLLOWING

RECIPES, NOTES, AND INSTRUCTIONS,

Upon the

MAKING, MIXING, AND PROPER MANAGEMENT OF

WINES, PORTER, ALES, AND SPIRITS,

ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,

TO THE

WINE MERCHANTS, SPIRIT DEALERS,

AND

BREWERS

OF ^cotlantr, (ffiiiglanlf, anU Srclanir,

ALEX. PEDDIE. ■ > PREFACE.

T o say much upon the usefulness and importance of a work of this kind, would be superfluous, vain and idle; the worth of it will be fully appreciated by those for whom it is particularly intended. All that seems necessary is, to give a short outline of the plan of the work, and point out where a little deviation (from the nature of the substances employed), at particular times may be absolutely necessary. It is now a number of years since I formed a design of compiling a work of this kind, for the use of those engaged in the wine and spirit trade; and I would not at this time, in all likelihood, have brought it into the notice of the public, had it not been for the repeated solicitations of many respecta- ble wine merchants and spirit dealers in Edinburgh, Glasgow, Greenock, and other places, to whom I shewed the manuscript copy, that I might receive their opinion upon its merits. My principal intention being to render this work useful to all, I have endeavoured to lay down and point out every thing in the simplest and plainest manner possible; and where it is judged necessary for the farther illustration of any subject, copious PREFACE.

notes are given; so that nothing may be a wantir that is curious, useful, and instructive. By the simple arrangement and the easy modi of management, given in the combination of all tl: different ingredients used in the mixing and manaj ing of wines, porter, ale, and spirits, the youn publican andinnkeeper will proceed with pleasure an safety, from what is simple to what is more con plex and difficult; when, by the instructions giver and his own experience, he will rise by easy step to be a proficient in the art of making, mixing managing, flavouring, colouring, and bottling c Wines, Foreign and British Spirits, Porter an Ales: and will be capable of producing liquor c every description, pleasing to the eye and gratefi to the palate; which at all times will command run, and the respect, attention, and support of th public. It is my settled opinion, that what may be ; benefit to individuals and the public in general should not be kept a secret. From these considera tions, and the solicitations of my friends, I was in duced to undertake the compilation and arrange ment of the present work; and that nothing may b a wanting that is of use, I have studiously sough after, and embraced every opportunity of receivin; information from brewers, maltsters, wine coopers and those engaged in wine and spirit vaults, ale am porter cellars; and I flatter myself that my labour have not been in vain, as this work will be found tc be the only extensive, correct, and useful work upor the same subject, ever presented to the public; ant the recipes and instructions given are from actua experiments made. There may sometimes be ex PREFACE. vii ceptions, where a deviation from the recipes given may be necessary in the making of home wines, as some fruits may contain more of the sweet principle than others, and consequently will require less sugar; and some fruits may contain more of the acid and will require more; and also the time and state of ripeness at which the fruit is pulled, may require a deviation; but the true remedy is, to balance the vegetable juice and sugar, so as to produce a fluid analogous to the juices of the grape, to imitate which is the sole intention. A work of this kind, as a directory to innkeepers, wholesale dealers, and private families, and to those engaged in the wine and spirit trade, must certainly be of the greatest utility; as from ignorance of the proper mode of management, young dealers, publicans, and private families, may have whole pipes of wine, hogsheads of porter and ale. turn sour, and not have the least idea how it may be recovered, so as to be fit for any kind of use. And great losses may by them be sustained in spirits from mismanagement, and various accidents that may occur, which might be remedied by having a Companion of this kind, to direct and instruct them what is most proper to be done, and for a very trifling expense might be prevented, and no loss or injury sustained; and at the same time, the spirits not adulterated so as to be injurious to the health. Wines, the produce of foreign countries, ought to be particularly carefully managed; as the loss upon them would be serious, from the import duties laid on by government, which makes their price exceedingly high, I have endeavoured to give a sketch of the antiquity of wines, and the method viii PREFACE.

followed in the making of it in grape countries; and when imported, how it ought to be landed and cel- lared, in whatever degree of temperature the atmosphere may be in; how to manage wine vaults, how to draw off and improve all the different kinds of wines when in the vaults, and also how to make matches, finings, colourings, &c. for wines. As it is now very common for them who have orchards and gardens of their own, on account of the dearness of foreign wines, to make wines and sweets from fruits of their own produce, a great variety of recipes are given, with copious notes and observations, where it is thought necessary; and also a full description of each ingredient employed in their composition, with particular instructions how to manage and improve it until it be fine and fit for use. Cyder and Perry are also particularly treated of; how to make, mix, manage, and improve them, if in a decaying state; and to what uses they may be applied, if past recovering, so that they may be drunk. Porter, Ale, and Beer, so well known, is fully discussed how it ought to be managed, and the method of brewing it, whereby every one can brew for his own use, whatever quantity he pleases, and make it suit his own taste. The nature of the water, the choosing of the malt and hops, the dimensions of the brewing vessels, the sweetening of the casks, the working and tacking of the liquor, the fining and recovering it when flat, &c. are laid down in such a clear manner, that none can mistake, if they pay the least attention to the .directions and instructions given. As also the process of brewing Porter, Ale, Beer, Brown Stout, Spruce and Ginger PREFACE. ix

Beer, as they are oftentimes used as coolers in the heat of Summer. As Vinegar is of so much use for pickling, sauce, &c. there are receipts and Instructions given, for the making of it from Wipes, Cyder, Beer, Raisins, refuse of fruits, Gooseberries, Currants, Sugar, &c. whereby those that have any liquor, or fruits, not lit for use otherwise, can convert them into good Vinegar, so that no loss may be sustained. The nature and use of acids are fully demonstrat- ed, how they act upon vegetables, and are so essentially necessary in promoting fermentation, which is absolutely necessary in the making of Wines, Por- ter, Ale and Beer. Also the Method of making Yeast, (or Barm) so beneficial in the baking of bread, as well as in the fermentation of spirituous liquors. There are full instructions given with respect to the purchasing and management of Foreign Spirits, such as Brandy, Rum, Holland Gin, or Geneva, Arrack, &c. and the management, lowering, improving, and reducing it, from one degree of strength to another, giving it a proper colour, and improving its flavour. Likewise how to imitate Brandy, Rum and Gin, both in colour and flavour, from common Whisky, or British Spirits, which will nearly deceive the nicest Judges, and will be found a great improvement, where an appearance of a change of liquor is particularly wanted. As Whisky is so common in Scotland, it is particularly treated of, how it ought to be bought, and managed, and how to reduce it from one degree of strength to another, above and below Hydrometer Proof, and the method of ascertaining the strength of Spirits by the Hydrometer, Bead, &c. and PREFACE. what kind of water is most fit for the mixing up of spirits, so as it may carry a fine bead when shaken in a phial, which is the only thing looked to in some parts of the country. Also a Sketch of the process of Distillation. I have not only treated on the making, mixing, flavouring, colouring, and managing, of Wines, Por- ter, Ales, and Spirits, but I have endeavoured to extend its utility to those who distil simple and compound waters, for their own use, or for sale; for this reason most of the recipes are adapted to small quantities, and a short description of the particular ingredients employed are given, that the maker may be at no loss to choose the best, upon which the quality of the composition depends. The making of Bitters is also treated of, for mixing into Wines, Porter, Ales, and Spirits, which I trust will be acceptable to Inn-Keepers, Vintners, and Spirit Dealers, as in some places people are very fond of drinking Ales, or Spirits, mixed with Bitters, Herbs, &c. in the spring, which is account- ed conducive to health. In fact, I have made it my study that nothing be a wanting that may be useful and beneficial to Inn- keepers, Vintners, and Spirit Dealers, in the making and Proper Management of Foreign and home Wines, Cyder and Perry, Malt Liquor, Vinegar, Yeast, Brandy, Rum, Gin, Arrack, Whisky, Bitters, and Compounds, with a variety of miscellaneous articles, highly necessary in the diflerent departments in the spirit line. To my Friends and Acquaintances, who have so kindly given me their advice and assistance, I return my liberal thanks, hoping that my weak en- PREFACE. xi

deavours to be useful to those in the spirit dealing line, will in some measure gratify their wishes, and answer the end for which it was intended, in preventing losses, and making the various liquors fine and agreeable to the palate; and at the same time, no ingredients employed, that may be hurtful, or injurious to the constitution. Of the merits of the Work, in facilitating, directing, and removing any obstacles which young publicans have to encounter, in the commencement of business, they will be the best judges; but I am hap- py to say that they will find many things entirely new, curious, useful, and entertaining, never before brought into view. To their candid investigation I leave the work, promising at the same time, should an opportunity occur, that my endeavours shall not be a wanting, in being useful to them, at any future period.

I am with respect.

Your most obedient servant,

ALEX. PEDDIE.

Glasgow, Hth March, 1825. SPIRIT DEALERS’ RECKONING BOARD. CONTENTS.

Dedication, - - - - i Preface,

FOREIGN WINES. English Wine Measure, _ - - J Scotch Liquid Measure, - - - - 1 Scotch and English Measure compared, - 1 Avoirdupoise Weight used for the Compounds, 1 History of Vines and Wines, - - ii Of Fermentation, .... - 2 Table of the proportions of sugar and water necessary to promote Fermentation, - - - 2 History of Vines and Wines continued, - 5 To discover when Lead is dissolved in Wine, 4 Of the landing and cellaring of Foreign Wines, 4 management of Wine Vaults, - - ,r racking of Foreign Wines, - - i management and improving of Red Port Wine, recovering Pricked Wines, 1st and 2d, Of improving a pipe of Sherry Wine, . . f a pipe of Madeira Wine, - - ( White Wine, . - . ( Of fining a pipe of Claret Wine, - - i a pipe of Sherry Wine, - - - < a pipe of Pale Sherry - - - ( a pipe of new Madeira Wine, - - i a pipe of Vidonia Wine, a pipe of Lisbon Wine, - - < a pipe of Bucella Wine, . . . ( a pipe of Malmsey Wine, - - - , a pipe of Port Wine, - - - < CONTENTS.

Page Of making a Match for Wines, - - - 68 Of the general method of using Finings, - - 69 management of Claret Wine, - - ib. Of colouring Claret, 1st and 2d. - - 70 Claret that drinks foul, - - - 71 Of the management and fining of White Port Wine, ib. Of making Port and Claret Wine drink rough, 72 Wine settle well, - . _ ib. Oyster Powder, - - - - 73 Of the making of Colouring for Red Wines, - ib. Filtering Bag, - - - - 74 Of Acids, 75 VINEGAR. Of Vinegar, - - - - - 76 the making of Vinegar, - - . . 78 helping Vinegar to sour. 80 Wine Vinegar, - - - - . 81 Cyder Vinegar, - - - - 82 Vinegar from the refuse of Fruits, and Table, ib. Raisin Vinegar, 1st, 2d, 3d, and Tables, 83 Beer Vinegar for pickling, and Table, 85 Gooseberry Vinegar, 1st, 2d, and Table, 86 Vinegar from Sugar, and Table, 87 Vinegar from the refuse of Bee Hives, 88 Spirit Vinegar, - - - - 89 Tarragon Vinegar, - • - ib. Balsamic Vinegar, - - 90 Primrose Vinegar, ... ib. Milk Vinegar, - - - . 91 Pure Vinegar, - - - ib. strengthening or concentrating Vinegar, ib. the strength of Vinegar, - - - 92 93 HOME-MADE WINES. Of Sweets, British or Home-Made Wines, - 94 English Dry Measure, - - - - 115 Dry Measure and Avoirdupoise weight compared, - - * - 116 CONTENTS.

Imitation of Port Wine, Notes and Table, - 116 of Claret Wine, and Notes, - 1X9 of Mountain Wine, and Notes, - ib. of Sack Wine, and Notes, - - 120 Of Sage Wine, 1st, 2d, Notes and Table, - 121 Elder Wine, 1st, 2d, 3d, 4th, and 5th, - 124 Elder Flower Wine, 1st, 2d and Notes, - 127 Imitation of Frontighiac Wine, and Table, - 1 28 Of Raisin Wine, 1st, 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th, Notes and Table, 180 Orange Wine, 1st, 2d, 3d, 4th, Table and Notes, 134 Cowslip Wine, 1st, 2d, 3d, Table and Notes 137 Imitation Champaign Wine, 1st, 2d, and Note, 141 Of Damson Wine, 1st, 2d, 3d, Table and Notes, 142 A Family Wine, - - - - 144 Of Raspberry Wine, 1st, 2d and Note, - - 145 an American Wine, - * - 146 Clary Wine, 1st, 2d and Note, - - 147 Koumiss, or Tartar Wine, - - - 148 Apricot Wine, and Note, - - - 149 Ginger Wine, 1st, 2d, Table and Notes, - ib. Mulberry Wine, and Note, - - 152 Birch and Maple Tree Wine, and Note, - ib. Balm Wine, and Note, - - - 154 Quince Wine, 1st, 2d and Note, - - ib. Cherry Wine, - - - - 155 Black Cherry Wine, 1st, 2d and Note, - ib. Blackberry or Black Currant Wine, and Note, 156 Lemon Wine, Notes and Table, - - 157 Currant Wine, 1st, 2d, 3d, and Table, - 160 Gooseberry Wrine, 1st, 2d, 3d, 4 th, 5th and 6th, 165 Wine from English Grapes, - - - 167 the making and management of Wine from English Grapes, 1st, 2d and Note, - - 172 improving vitiated Home Wines, - - 174 restoring Home Wines that are Pricked, 1st, 2d, and Notes, - - - - 175 keeping Home Wines from turning sour, 1st, 2d, and Notes, - - - - - 176 taking away the ill scent from Home Wines, ib. sweetening Home Wines, ... if>. CONTENTS.

Page Of preventing Home Wines from lowering and decaying, 17 7

OF SPIRITS. Of Rum, 180 reducing and improving Rum, - - 184 making up Rum to any price, - - 185 3 gallons Rum, at 16s. per gal. and Note, 186 3 gallons Rum, at 13s. per gallon, 187 3 gallons Rum, at 10s, per gallon, ib. 3 gallons Rum, at 8s. per gallon, and Note, ib. Of making Rum carry a bead - - - 188 taking the blackness off Rum, and Note - 189 colouring Spirits, - - - - 190 the genuineness of French Brandy, Jamaica Rum, and Note, - “ - 191 making Wood Colouring, - - 192 Sugar Colouring, - - - ib. Treacle Colouring, and Note, - - 193 Catechu Colouring, and Note, - - - 194 making Rum from Horae Spirits, 1st, 2d, 3d, and Notes, - - - - 195 up Phials to imitate Rum, 1 st, 2d, and Notes, 197

GIN. Of the management of Gin, - - 202 lowering and reducing Gin, - - - 203 tainted Gin, - - - - ib. fining Gin, 1st, 2d, and Note, - - - 204 taking the blackness off Gin, - - ib. improving the flavour of Gin, and Note, - ib. distilling 10 gallons of Gin, and Note, - 205 making 20 gallons of Gin as in England, 1st, and Note, - - - - 206 killing the Oils, and Note, - - ib. making Lime Water, ... 207 5 gallons of Gin, 2d, 3d, 4th, and Notes, ib. up Phials to imitate Gin, 1st, 2d, and Notes, 208

BRANDY. Calculations of the strength of Brandy, - 214 THE

HOTEL, INNKEEPER, VINTNER,

AND SPIRIT DEALERS ASSISTANT.

As different kinds of weights and measures are made use of in the making up of wines and compounds, it will be found no doubt useful to give tables of the weights and measures made use of throughout the work; and also, the comparison betwixt Scotch and English measure, so that none may plead ignorance, by not knowing what measure they ought to have taken, and thereby spoil the proportion in the compositions.

ENGLISH WINE MEASURE. Solid Inches 1 Noggin, or Gill. 4 Noggins 1 Pint. 2 Pints 1 Quart. 4 Quarts 1 Gallon. 63 Gallons 1 Hogshead. 2 Hogsheads 1 Pipe. 2 Pipes I 1 Tun. 14 SPIRIT DEAtER’s

This measure is usecl for wine, spirits, distiller’s wash, oils, cyder, perry, distiller’s low wines, mead, sweets or made wines, mum, verjuice, honey, and all imported beer or ale, mum, cyder, and perry. This measure is what the spirit dealers term gallon measure: there are 36 gills in the gallon, while in the Scotch quart, (or two pints) which is sometimes called a gallon, there are only 32 gills. In foreign wines, the size of the pipe and hogshead differ greatly. By the standard gauge of the custom house at London, the pipe of Madeira is 110 gallons; of Vidonia, Teneriffe, and Barcelona, 120 gallons, of sherry 130 gallons, of port 138 gallons, of Lisbon 140 gallons, and the hogshead of claret 58, and tent 63 gallons, same as in Eng- land. A puncheon, strictly speaking, is 4 ankers; but any cask betwixt a hogshead and a pipe is called a puncheon.

SCOTCH LIQUID MEASURE.

I 1 Quart. 4 Quarts I 1 Gallon. 16 Gallons l_ 1 Hogshead.

This table is properly used for wine and spirits, it is seldom used for ale. 103 l-loth solid inches is 1 Scotch pint; 3 Scotch pounds of the water of Leith is the standard of the above pint. ASSISTANT. 19 them great profit and emolument. The tithe of wine is an article that frequently occurs in the old accounts of rectorial and vicarial revenues and ec- clesiastical suits concerning Kent, Surrey, and other counties. The wines of Gloucestershire within 100 years after the conquest, were little inferior to the French wines in sweetness; but not only in England did the decay of vines take place, but also in other places. So great had the vines decayed, that that beautiful region of Gaul, where the vines grew lux- uriantly in the days of Strabo, had not a single vestige of them in the days of Julius Csesar; the south of it was particularly stocked with them, and they had even extended themselves into the interior parts of the country, but the grapes of the latter did not ripen kindly. France was very much famed for the number of its vineyards and goodness of its vines, so early as the days of Titus Vespasian the Roman Emperor, and even exported its wines to the neigh- bouring countries. The province of Narbonne was then almost covered and very productive in its vines, and the wine merchants were remarkable and dex- terously knavish in tinging their wines with smoke, herbs, and noxious dyes, and even at that time, they were up to the adulteration of it with lead, and also the taste and appearance with aloes. It is likely our first vines were transplanted from France, as also those of Franche Compte, that district of country which reaches from Basle to the neighbourhood of Straulsound, which place was famous for its vines, as these were peculiarly fitted for cold countries, and they even ripened in the bleak winds and chilling frosts of the advancing winter: they were also of the same colour, and seem to have been of the same 20 SPIRIT DEALER’S species, as the black Muscadines of the present day, which have lately been tried in Britain, and found to be the fittest for the climate. The cultivation of vines being neglected by the Romans, of course made wine scarce, by which they were very seldom able to regale themselves with wine, even nearly up to the days of Lucullus the Roman Dictator, and very little was then raised within the Italian territory, and the foreign wines were so dear that they were very seldom produced, even at an entertainment, and when they were, each guest had only the pleasure of receiving a single draught. But as the Roman conquests began to be extended, and the degrees of their wealth augmented thereby, which enlarged the sphere of their luxury, wines became the object of particular attention. Many wine vaults were constructed, and large stocks of liquor deposited in them, while at the same time they tried to vie with each other in the age of the wines, and the large dimensions of their casks. Hence , this emulation naturally gave encouragement to the cultivation of vines in different countries, and the wines of different places were alter- nately held in the highest estimation, and eagerly sought after as a luxury by the opulent classes of Britain. Government then seeing it a luxury daily gaining ground among the great, and a very important article in trade, which was most likely to produce a considerable sum to the revenue, imposed on it heavy and permanent duties from time to time, which of course raised it to an exorbitant price, putting it out of the power of the poorer classes of the community to purchase it, except forced by absolute necessity for a cordial in cases of distress. ASSISTANT. 21 Yet notwithstanding of these heavy imposts, vast quantities of wine were made abroad and exported to different quarters. In Portugal alone in 1790,140,000 pipes of wine were made, 45,000 were imported in- to England, 20,000 into Ireland, 38,000 into Hol- land, Denmark and other places, while the remaining 37,000 were consumed at home. But it appears that the consumption of wine in England is falling off from the following compari- sons of the consumption of it in the years 1792 and 1822. In 1792 the population of England was 8,300,000, the consumption of wine was 7,710,992 gallons, or 122,395 hogsheads, which was 5 quarts 1 pint, 1 gill, the charge of consumption upon each individual. In 1822 the population of England was 11,200,000, the consumption of wine was 4,912,740 gallons, or 77,980 hogsheads, which was 1 quart, 1 pint, 2 gills to each individual, so we see that the population was 2,900,000 greater in 1822 than it was in 1792, and the consumption of wine was 2,798,252 gallons or 44,415 hogsheads, less. From the above comparison in the consumption of wine, we may take it as a data for every thing else, which affords the most incontrovertible proof that the people of England enjoy now none of those solid comforts to which they were accustomed 30 years ago, and that although the present day displays more pomp, this is only the outward symbol of in creased inward misery. The vine is a native of most of the temperate parts in the different quarters of the world, and is success- fully cultivated in our hemisphere between the 30th and 51st degrees of latitude. By the difference of soil and climate, numerous varieties of grapes are produced, and the wines generally receive their name 22 SPIRIT DEALER’S

from the place where the grapes are cultivated. A catalogue of the different kinds of wine would serve no purpose, as it is generally named from the place where it is made: therefore I shall give only a few of the names by which the leading or principal wines are known, viz. Aland Alicant Burgundy Vine Grave French Frontignac Malmsey Vindegraw Madeira Old Rhenish Neufschatel Old Hock Port Salamanca Pontac Vidonia Spanish Sherry Champaigne Hermitage Tokay Muscadine Claret Mountain Malaga Sack Constantin, &c. In fact there is such a variety that it would be entirely useless to name the whole, and almost impossible, the variety is so great, and it is by the taste, flavour and colour, that a proper distinction is made. The quality of wines depend not only upon the grapes produced, which afford wines extremely various in colour, taste, and other qualities, as they contain more or less saccharine, (or sweet juice) and of the acid matter which accompanies it, but also upon certain circumstances attending the process of fermentation, which is essentially necessary in the making of wine, the nature of which I will here describe. OF FERMENTATION. A spontaneous intestine commotion in vegetable substances, by which their properties are totally ASSISTANT. 23 changed. There are several circumstances required in order that fermentation may proceed: Such as, 1. A certain degree of fluidity; thus, dry substances will not ferment at all. 2. A certain degree of heat. o. The contact or access of air. Fermentation by chemists has been distinguished into three or four kinds or species, viz. the vinous or spirituous, the acid or acetous, and the putrid or putrefactive; and panary, which are so called from the principal products afforded during each of them respectively. And it is considered as an established fact, that the three stages of fermentation always follow each other in such bodies as are susceptible of them all; the vinous coming first, which is followed by the acetous, and acetous by the putrefactive. These spontaneous effects are greatly retarded by cold or by sudden desiccation, or by putting the liquor into vessels so well closed, as to prevent the escape or absorption of air. The first two of these necessarily retard the chemical process, by depriv- ing the parts of the fluidity requisite; and it most naturally will be understood that the changes of combination cannot by any means be completely made, while the communication with the open air, the great receptacle and solvent of volatile matter, and one of the chief agents in the great operations of nature, is cut off. The vinous fermentation never takes place where sugar is not present. It appears the most simple to consider what happens when due proportions of sugar and water are mixed and exposed to fermentation. If a considerable quantity of water holding in solution about one-third of its weight in sugar, be exposed to the air, at the temperature of be- 24 SPIRIT DEALER’S

twixt 60 and 70 Fahrenheit’s Thermometer, after the addition of a small quantity of yeast, it soon undergoes a remarkable change; I. An intestine motion takes place, the bulk of the mixture then becomes augmented and frothy on the top. 2. Bub- bles of carbonic acid gas are disengaged, which rise and break at the surface. 3. The disengagement and separation of the mucilage becomes more and more abundant, part of which falls to the bottom, and part floats on the top and forms new yeast; during the course of a few days these effects gradually come to their height and diminish again; after which they proceed very slowly, but it is long before they entirely cease. The fermented liquor then loses its sweet taste, and becomes brisk and penetrating, and capable of producing intoxication. In this manner wine, beer, cyder, &c. are made. All bodies that have undergone the spirituous fermentation are capable of passing on to the acid fermentation, (or of being made into vinegar;) but although it is probable that the acid fermentation never takes place before the body has gone through the spirituous fermentation, yet the duration of the first is often so short and imperceptible that it cannot be rightly ascertained. Besides the bodies which are proper for spirituous fermentation, this class in- cludes all sorts of fecula boiled in water. The con- ditions required to promote the acid fermentation are, 1st, A heat from 40 to 55 degrees of Fahrenheit. 2. A certain degree of fluidity. 3. The presence of atmospherical air. 4. A moderate quantity of fermentable matter. The signs which accompany this fermentation, are, an intestine motion and a considerable absorption of air by bubbles; the tran- ASSISTANT. 25

sparent liquor becomes turbid, but regains its lim- pidity and clearness, when the fermentation is over. The fermented liquor now consists in a great measure of a peculiar acid, called the acetous acid, or vinegar. Not a vestige of spirit remains,, it being entirely decomposed; but the greater the quantity of spirit in the liquor, previous to the fermentation, the greater will be the quantity of true vinegar obtained. It is by far the best way, to hasten the commencement of the fermentation, to add a little good yeast from beer, and when the fermentation is once excited, it continues of itself until it is completed. But some vegetable juices, as those of most ripe fruits, ferment without any yeast. Seguin asserts that all such contain a large portion of albumen, or that substance which is one of the chief constituent principles of all the animal solids; there is a large quantity of albumen in the white of eggs, the blood, &c. it also forms the cheese in milk; and that albumen added to Saccharine matter will occasion it to ferment as well as yeast; from which he infers that albumen is the true fermentation. Fermentation may be promoted in various ways. Let a spittle be dropt among a quantity of the paste made of the flour of wheat into a vessel, and in half an hour the fermentation will be visible; the particles will be decomposed, and the paste will become more and more liquid. The South American Indians make a sort of drink from the wheat called Turky wheat, which they call bici. This liquor is very windy and intoxicating, and has nearly the , same taste as sour small beer. The manner of making this precious beverage is to steep a parcel 26 SPIRIT DEALER S of corn in a vessel of water till it grows sour, then the old women being provided with calabashes for the purpose, chew some grains of the corn in their mouths, and spitting it into the calabashes, empty them, spittle and all, into the sour liquor, having previously drawn it off into another vessel. The chewed grain soon raises a fermentation, and when it ceases, the liquor is let oft’ from the dregs and set by till wanted. In some of the Is- lands in the South Sea, they are so fond of this liquor, and, (where each individual is his own law- giver,) it is nothing uncommon for a near relation to excuse a murderer for a good drinking bout of Bici, or what is termed in Scotland a good fuddling match. Sugar must be mixed with about four times its weight in water to render it susceptible of fermentation ; and even in that state, it will often remain undisturbed without the assistance of some substance to give a commencement to the fermentation. In warm weather, although the spontaneous fermentation may proceed in liquids whereof sugar composes a part, the process is not so regular as when assisted by yeast, and is apt to become acetous or sour, before completing the various processes. From this it will no doubt be clearly seen that those who are to ferment any liquor, not to leave it to itself, but add a little good yeast, although it may have the appearance of a fermentative motion, for it may bring itself into the acetous state before you may be aware, when nothing can be done with it but turn it into vinegar. The following table shews the proportions that water, sugar, and yeast ought to have to one another ASSISTANT. 27 to promote fermentation in a proper manner, pro- fermentationvided that a duebe attended temperature to, whichor heat may favourable be betwixt to 55 Example,and 80 degrees suppose on the Fahrenheit’s proportions Thermometer. of water, sugar, saryand yeast,to be mixedwere wanted together to inbe knownorder to that promote are neces- fer- findmentation, the quantity look ofin water,the first and column on the and same you line will in water,the other sugar, column and yeast. you willSuppose find the 60 gallonsweight ofwater, the garthe necessaryweight of is it 110is 442 pounds pounds, 10 ounces,8 ounces, and the yeast su- 11 pounds, 4 ounces, which are the proportions onrequisite. the head The of thenames columns. of the ingredients are marked Note, the yeast must be nearly dry, else the quantitypounds, Oz.will isbe ounce. too small.Dr. is drams,Gal. is &c. gallon. Lb. is 28 SPIRIT DEALER’ WATER. SUGAR. YEAST Gal. Lb. Oz. Lb. 0z. 2?r. Lb. Oz. 217 14 126 31 1311 08 0 36 34 2229 82 75 68 08 0 129 56 3644 144 119 310 8 012 IS 87 5951 100 1214 14 8 15 9 66 6 16 129 08 in18 1110 8173 122 1918 7 0 1 14 12 88 8 22 42 80 2 41 1413 10395 144 2523 15 8 2 7 15 110 10 27 1013 O8 2 1013 1617 125118 06 3129 8 0 3 0 18 132 12 33 53 80 53 36 2019 147140 82 3536 140 08 3 129 3025 221184 46 5546 518 0 54 1011 4035 295258 02 6473 128 08 67 98 5045 331368 1214 8292 153 08 89 67 7060 516442 48 110129 1010 0 1113 24 9080 663590 120 165147 158 O0 1516 14O 200100 1475737 O8 368184 1260 0 3718 128 400300 29502212 08 555737 28 0 5675 04 ASBISTANT. 29 Putrid or Putrefactive fermentation is that pro- cesssipated by inwhich the air,any insubstance the form is ofdecomposed putrid gas. andEvery dis- livingtrograde body, process, when and deprived becomes of decomposed life, performs or chan-a re- ged.fermentation This is incalled vegetables. putrefaction The samein animals, causes, andthe andsame favour agents, the and change the same in vegetables circumstances, and animals, determine and arisesthe difference from the of differencethe products of thewhich several are obtainedparts of process,which each are, is composed.1. A certain What degree is requisiteof humidity in this or moisture. 2. The access of atmospheric air, and, 3.sure, A certainthe addition degree of of ferments heat, the are diminution not essential of pres- in progress.putrefactive fermentation, but greatly accelerate its notThere applied is another to liquids, species it may of fermentation,not be unnecessary although to mentionis that which here, takes called place Panary in the fermentation, baking of bread.— which Wheni tough flour paste, is kneadednot easily together digested with by water the stomach, it forms and70 it if swells, exposed emits to aa temperaturesmall quantity of of betwixt gas, acquires 60 and newsour andproperties, disagreeable and tothe the paste taste: or aleaven portion becomes of this sourand acceleratesleaven kneaded the fermentative with new leaven process, forms and a ferment, may be butcontinued the bread successively is always from sour oneand bakingdisagreeable to another, to the madepalate. by Thiscountry may bakersbe the has reason generally why athe sour bread acid 30 SPIRIT DEALER’S taste, as for eortveniency they take this plan of fer- mentingtermed inthe the dough. scriptures I thinkleavened that bread, this iswhich what ap- is thepears addition to be a of practice yeast, orof theconsiderable vinous ferment, antiquity, now but so able,generally seems used, to beand of which modern is bydate. far theWhen most yeast prefer- is speedymixed andwith effectual the dough, fermentation it produces than a that much obtained more lighter,by leaven, and scarcelyand the ever bread sour. is accordingly much The operation of fermentation may be known to benoise perfected can be nowhen longer the heard, hissing, upon or applyingsmall bubbling the ear to the eye,vessel; and and having also bya pungent the liquor sharpness appearing on clear the tongue.ties, and beAnd well that fitted it may to yieldfully obtaina pure theseand perfectly proper- feredvinous to spirit stand if at used rest inin distillation,a somewhat it cooler should place, be suf- if haspossible, thoroughly than that deposited in which and it cleansedwas fermented, itself of till the it grossand fragrant; lee, and inbecome which perfectlystate it istransparent, committed vinousto the still,that obtainedand the inspirit the commonobtained waywill innot quantities, only exceed but alsoMuch in fragrance, has been pungency,said, and much and hasvinosity. been discover- remainsed with toregard be accurately to fermentation. determined Rut concerning much stillthe whatprocess, the theyeast products, or ferment and performs their proportions,in this operation. and endBut inI trustordinary enough cases. has Havingbeen said explained to answer thus anyfar ASSISTANT. 31 the nature of the process of fermentation, I shall nowand managingenter into foreign some detail wines. of the process of making by Winefermentation is an agreeable from those spirituous substances liquor that produced contain substancessaccharine matter.may be Amade very togreat afford number wine, of vegetablesuch as apples,grapes, pears,currants, turnips, mulberries, &c. Henceelderberries, under thecherries, class ofbut wines also alecome, and notbeer. only Chemists wiftes absolutely give the soname called, of bywine fermentation. in general to all liquor that becomes spirituous propriatedWine however to the liquoris in a extractedmore particular from themanner fruit ap-of theSweet vine. principle When developed, the grapes they are arefully then ripe, taken and andthe putterm in it, the where wine-press, the juice Lacus, was orformerly lake, as and the inRomans many placesstones stillfrom is beingtrode broken,out with whichthe feet, of tocourse prevent would the giveWine the presseswine a bitterare made taste. in different forms, some have the bottom of the press perforated with holes, theas close must as passes may befrom judged the necessary,wine press through to the vatwhich or carriedlake below, on. intoOthers which have the processspouts uponof fermentation the side ofis theare pressalso pressesby which made the of wmst a particular is carried construction off; there theso as juice. not to Thisbreak last the is stones,the process in the that expressing is the most of pressesexpeditious used andin Herefordshire. cleanly, and is similar to the cydet 32 SPIRIT DEALER’} In very hot countries it is necessary to have the sidelake ofunder a rock ground, for coolness, or in a cavethat hewedthe heat out may in notthe “cause The toowine great presses a fermentation in Persia,” saysand Sir sour John the Char-must. grounddin, “ arelined formed with masonby making work.” hollow After places the mustin the is gatheredof 70, the into different this lake ingredients and heated beginto the totemperature act upon eachtion begins;other, andthe whatliquid isbecomes termed thickvinous and fermenta- muddy, carbonicits agitation acid increases gas is evolved gradually from and bubbles, is more until violent, the fermentationof a few days; ceases, the thick which part is thefalls case to the in thebottom course or lostrises itsto thesweet surface, taste theand liquidreceived becomes a new clear, one itmore has acidname and of wine.tartish, viz. the liquid well known by the composedChemists of who live have ingredients, analyzed wine,viz. water,say that sugar, it is jelly,sugar glutten,which grapes and a containmixed acid.when fullyThe ripequantity is con- of siderable, and may be obtained in crystals by boiling orand evaporating separating mustthe water into thewhich consistence precipitates of a duringsyrup, theAlcohol evaporation. forms the true character of wine, and hotabounds countries more incontain some winesa large than quantity others. of Thosealcohol, of whileAlso thethose wine of madecold climatesof grapes contain unripe, scarcelywatery, any.and sour,In veryyield warmvery little.dry seasons the grapes at the bot- ASSISTANT. 33 onestom ofthose the ofhills the are top, the such best; as growin warm in theand middle moist grapesregions arebeing sweetest, always butgood. least Injuicy; dry insummers rainy ones the theyweaker. abound Frost with in autumnjuice whichpromotes is proportionallytheir ripening, burstbut frost and shedsucceeding their juice. heavy Inrains some dispose places thethem wine to onis renderedthe tree tillricher great by partsuffering of the the watery grapes matter to remain has clusterexhaled beingby the half heat cut of through, the sun, whenthe stem the offruit each is theripe, plant.to prevent The thesweetest efflux Hungarianof any fresh and juice Spanish from thiswines process are made half dried.from grapes that have been by tasteThe and same flavour, kind ofaccording grape may to thebe veryclimate different and ex- in posurethere is of one the that sun. directly Among fronts the theTokay south, wine and hills, is called,Sugar fromHxll. the“ peculiar This,” sweetnesssays Newman, of its grapes, “ affords the isthe appropriated most delicious to theof alluse the of theHungarian Imperial wines, family.” and The juice of the grape before its fermentation is ducedcalled must,in the and same different vineyard, kinds and of according wines are to pro- the takingdifferent of methodsthe different of management—(similar kinds of tea from the to same the tree,that whichbut pulled issues atupon different breaking, seasons.) bruising, The or besttread- is ingby forciblythe picked pressing fruit. the Inferiorentire cluster sorts withare extractedits stalks. 34 sfirit dealer’s themDilute, dried watery grapes, musts, or areby inspissatingenriched by partinfusing of the in strong/^sugar, and bodiedadding wines this toare the attainable rest. By from such the means poorest juice; and by a similar management, even by the juicesbetter ofsorts other of fruitsgrape artificially wines, are concentrated imitable with or | flavour,mixed. taste,Hence colour, it appears and bodythat ofthe wines difference is perhaps of gathering,as much owing pressing, to the fermenting, different manner&c. as andto thetime dif- of ferenceNo substance of the grape whatever itself. can be made to undergo sugarthe vinous is present: fermentation, sugar thereforeand to produce is absolutely wine, unless ne- forcessary no sugar for thecan beexistence obtained of from vinous properly fermentation; ferment- fermented,ed wine. Theconsists excellence in its beingof wine, neat, when fine, properly bright, i andclear, brisk, steady without colour, any having taste strengthof the soil,without and beingof a J outheady, growing body hard.without Wine, sourness, when and properly in keeping fermented with- butand affectsfined, hasthe headnot the and same occasions, laxative as quality is well ofknown, must, thedrunkenness. insipid water If itobtained be distilled from itmust yields, by distillation,instead of! ' flammablewith the heat liquor, of boilingcalled spiritwater, of a spirituouswine, or alcohol.and in- 1 Experienceof which is veryhas shownslow andthat tedious, wine, theis never fermentation. good or ! verytoo cold,spirituous, the fermentation and therefore is usually when theaccelerated weather byis heating the place in which the wine is made. Some; ASSISTANT. 35 thanpropositions usual tohave hasten been themade fermentation to apply a greaterof the wineheat [ inciently those ripened, years when and whenthe grapes the juice, have bynot the been absence suffi- actionof the ofsaccharine fermentation. principle, is not disposed to the hastyIt is and said, violent and I fermentationbelieve with someis also truth, hurtful, that from too I dissipating and losing of the spirit, but although that isderate not fullytemperature ascertained, is the yet best. it is certainHowever, that ina mo-the . distinguishordinary way two of periods making in winethe processof grapes, of fermenta-we may mentioned,tion, the first in of which which the lasts greater during part the of elfects fermentable above i particlestion, these ferment; effects sensiblyafter the diminish, first effort and ofat fermenta-this stage oughting a pint to beof wheat,stopped. and Which boiling itmay in abe quart done of by water, tak- i tilla linen it burst cloth, and and become put asoft, pint then of squeezethe liquor it through to the '1 I hogshead of unsettled wine; stir it well about, and ' I liveafterward motions it willof the become liquor fine. ceases, When the heterogeneous the fermenta- j iparts.and renderthat are it suspendedmuddy, are in theseparated; wines by this the formsmotion, a > [sediment: Sir Edward called Barry,the lees. in his observations on the "1 ifermentationwines of the ancients,has ceased, and wines others, ought say tothat be after kept theon *i (theirto increase lees for their a certain strength time, andwhich flavour, greatly (this contribute mode ' appearsit is reckoned to have they been will very retain ancient.) a more richAnd andfrom sweet this 36 SPIRIT DEALER’S oustaste state, than and is naturalunless further to them fermentation in a recent is truepromot- vin- attained by theirtheir being genuine longer strength on their and lees, flavour, they will but never run intodegenerate repeated into and a ineffectual liquor of fermentations, an acetous sour and kind,soon I viz. vinegar. wineSo thathas settledafter the upon fermentation the lees, inhas this ceased, new wine,and the a partand whichof the afterwardsunfermented ferments, liquor butprobably so very remains, slowly fermentationthat none of theare sensibleperceived; effects the produced fermentation in the there- first foreshorter still time, continues although in thein an wine, imperceptible during a longer manner or ; and this is the second period of the spirituous fer- fermentation.mentation, which We may may be easily called perceive, the imperceptible that the effect of this imperceptible fermentation is the gradual increaseadvantageous, of alcohol. namely, It hasthe alsoseparation another of effect the acid no lesssalt thereforecalled cream a second of tartar, sediment, from the that wine; is formed this matter in wine is and adheres to the sides of the vessels which con- tainable, it.it isAs evident the taste that of the tartar wine, is harshwhich and by meansdisagree- of hol,the insensibleand lias disengagedfermentation itself has of acquired the greater more part alco- of able;its tartar, for thisought reason to be chiefly much old better wine and is preferablemore agree- to j newBut wine. insensible fermentations can only ripen and ' regularlymellow the proceeded wine, ifthesensiblefermentation and been stopped in duetime, has before itis* ASSISTANT. 37 clear, that if a sufficient time has not been given for the first period of fermentation, the unfermented matter that remains, being in too large a quantity, will then ferment a second time, whereby serious losses may be sustained. For instance, in Champaigne wines, and others similar: the sensible fermentation of these wines is interrupted, or rather suppressed, that they may have a sparkling quality. It is well known that these wines make the corks fly out of the bottles, that they sparkle and froth when poured into glasses, and that they have a taste much more lively and sharp than wines that do not sparkle; but the sparkling quality, and all the ' effects depending on it, are only caused by a considerable quantity of gas which is disengaged during the confined fermentation that the wine has undergone in close vessels. This air not having an opportunity of escaping, and of being dissipated as fast as it is disengaged from these wines, they no longer sparkle, they lose their taste, become mild and almost insipid. Such are the qualities that wine acquire in time, when its first fermentation has not continued sufficiently long. These qualities are given purposely to certain kinds of wine, to in- dulge taste or caprice, but such wines are supposed to be unfit for daily use. Wines for daily use ought to have undergone so completely the first fermentation, that the succeeding fermentation shall be insensible, or at least exceedingly little perceived. Wine in which the first fermentation has been allowed to advance too far, is liable to worse consequences than that in 38 SPIRIT DEALER’S which the first fermentation has been too quickly suppressed; for every fermentable liquor is, from its nature, in a continual intestine commotion, more or less strong, according to circumstances, from the first commencement of the spirituous fermentation, till it is completely purified; hence, from the time of the completion of the spirituous fermentation, the wine begins to undergo the acid (or acetous) fermentation; this acid fermentation is very slow, especially when the wine is kept in close vessels in a cool place; but it gradually advances, so that in a certain time, the wine, instead of being improved, becomes at last sour. This evil cannot be remedied, because the fermentation may advance, but cannot be reverted. The only substances that can absorb or destroy, but cover and render supportable the sharpness of wine, without any inconvenience, are sugar, honey, and other sweet alimentary substances, but they can only succeed when the wine is a very little sour, and when a very small quantity of these substances is sufficient to produce the desired effect; otherwise, the wine would have a sweetish tart, and not an agreeable taste. From what has been advanced concerning the acid properties of wine, we may conclude, that when this accident happens, it cannot by any good method be remedied, and that nothing remains to be done with sour wine, but to turn it into vinegar yourself, or sell it to the vinegar makers, as all honest wine merchants do. Heat is also capable of producing the same effect in j ASSISTANT. S9 the souring of wines, for wine that has been kept long in a cool place, very quickly becomes sour when placed in a bad cellar; and even the best of cellars, having during the winter, a degree of heat much above that of the atmosphere, it would be very proper, when wine disposed to become sour is to be preserved, to bring it out of the cellar in the beginning of winter, and leave it exposed to the air during that season. Wine is also liable to various other changes; such as, to become ropy and mucilaginous, by the continuance of the fermentative motion, as before noticed, when treating upon the first fermentation. The colour of wine is frequently artificial; a deep red is always, except in a few cases, the effect of artificial additions, as, of the red woods, elder-berries, bilberries, &c. In France, no secret is made of these practices, the colouring matters being publicly known, and thrown out after they have been used; home wines may be made to any colour that suits the fancy, by these ingredients, as far as they are not injurious to the health. It is a well-known practice among dishonest wholesale merchants, wine-coopers, innkeepers, and other dealers in wines, to adulterate bad wines to conceal their defects; for instance, if the wine be sour, they throw into it a quantity of the sugar of lead, which entirely takes away the sour taste; also, for similar purposes, alum is often mixed with wine. Such substances, however, are well known to be extremely pernicious to the human constitution, and produce violent 40 SPIRIT DEALER’S cholics, and even death, when taken internally; those who use it, when harmless ingredients might be used with equal propriety and advantage, to correct the sourness of wines, may be considered, and very justly, the poisoners and murderers of the public. Dr. Watson relates, that at one time, it was a common practice in Paris, to sweeten their wines, by the addition of lead. But although fraudulent and dishonest wine merchants may adulterate their wines with lead, knowing its dangerous effects; many may do it through ignorance, as there have been treatises published, directing lead to be used in order to take off, and preserve wines from acidity, which it certainly does; and in consequence of these directions, some of our wine merchants may have contaminated their wines with lead, without sus- pecting that they were distributing a slow poison to their customers. The Ancients knew that this metal rendered harsh wine milder, but they did not suspect or suppose that it was poisonous. According to Pliny, the Greeks and Romans proved the quality of their wines by dipping a plate of lead in them. How much is the drinkers of wine indebted to the science of Chemistry for this discovery, and it were to be regretted, if any thing injurious should be used, when sugar, honey, &c. might have the same effect, if the acidity was not too great, so as to be past recovery; it would no doubt make the wine a little dearer, but, instead of doing mischief, would be wholesome, and greatly improve the strength and vinosity of the wine. ASSISTANT. 41 Lg,i<1 will not only correct the acidity of wines, but will also take off the rancidity of oils. With this intention, I have been informed, it is often used to make inferior oil pass for good. It is therefore of the utmost importance, to detect these ingredients whenever they are suspected to be contained in the wine. Several Chemists have furnished us with valuable tests for that purpose:—The following may suffice. To discover vihen lead is dissolved in wine.— Take of oyster shells and sulphur, equal parts, mix and beat them together, and when brought to a white heat, keep them in that state for about 15 minutes, and when cold, pound them together in a mortar, add an equal quantity of cream of tartar; put this mixture into a strong bottle with common water, make it boil for an hour, and when cold, cork the bottle and shake it up, then let it settle; after it is settled, pour it off in small ounce bottles, and for each ounce of liquor, add 20 drops of muriatic acid, (spirit of salt) this mixture precipitates (or makes fall to the bottom) the least quantity of lead, copper, &c. from wines and cyder; (but as iron might accidentally be in the wine, the muriatic acid, is added to prevent it falling to the bottom and being mistaken for the precipitate of lead,) if the wine is not adulterated, it will remain clear and bright after this mixture has been added. Wine kept in a cool vault, and well secured from the external air, will preserve its texture entire in all the constituent parts, and sufficiently strong for many years, as appears not only from old wines, but other foreign fermented c 3 4-2 SPIRIT DEALER’S liquors, particularly those of China, prepared from a decoction of rice, which being well closed down in the vessel, and buried deep under ground, will continue for a long series of years, rich, generous, and good, as the histories of that country universally agree. Sir Edward Barry says, “ That our best modern wines, especially those of a delicate texture and flavour, may be more effectually preserved in earthen vessels, well closed, and glazed ex- ternally and internally, of a larger size than our bottle; that dry sand is preferable for covering the bottles in the bins, to saw dust; and that a small anti-cellar, built before the larger cellar, would be a considerable defence, improvement,” &c. So backward were they in former ages to the adulteration of their wine, that Pliny mentions Utaphylus as the first who mixed wine with water; but Athenceus gives the name thereof to Amphitryon, king of Athens; be this as it may, it is of little consequence; at any rate, it appears that it had been thought a wonder in that age, but now, nothing is reckoned a wonder or ridi- culous, if it will bring money into the pocket. In some countries, the age of wines is generally reckoned by leaves; wines of two, four, or six leaves, signifies so many years, taking each new leaf put forth by the vine, since the wine was made, for a year. Among the Romans, the age was a certain criterion of the goodness of wines, to which all their writers bear testimony. The places where they are now kept longest, is in Italy and Germany; there are scarcely any ASSISTANT. 4'3 to be found of above 15 years of age, or 15 leaves. In France, the wines that keep best, are those of Dijon, Nantz and Orleans, and they are reckoned superannuated at five or six years old. In some places, and by some people, the largeness of their wine casks and the age of their wines is reckoned a sure sign of great wealth, and of which they very often make a boast; and it is a high honour conferred upon a guest, to be treated with wine of a great age, or drawn from a cask of large size. At Heidelberg, a town of Lower Saxony, and capital of the Palatinate, upon the river Neckar, near its junction with the Rhine, in Germany, there was a tun, or wine vessel, constructed in 1343, which held 21 pipes, or 2,646 gallons, English wine measure. Another was made, or the one now mentioned rebuilt in 1664, which held 600 hogsheads, or 37,800 gallons, English wine measure. This was emptied and knocked to pieces by the French, in 1688. But a new one, and larger, was afterwards fabricated, which held 800 hogsheads, or 50,400 gallons. It was formerly kept full of the best Rhenish wine, and the Electors have given many enter- tainments on its platform; “but this convivial monument of ancient hospitality, is now,” says Mr. Walker, “ but a melancholy, unsocial, so- litary instance of the extinction of hospitality:” it moulders in a damp vault, decayed and quite empty. The celebrated tun of Konigstein, is said to be the largest and most capacious cask in the 44 SPIRIT DEALER’S world, holding 1,869,336 English pints. The top is railed in, and it affords room for 20 people to regale themselves. There are also several kinds of welcome cups, which are offered to stran- gers, who are invited by a Latin inscription, to drink to the prosperity of the whole universe. This enormous tun was built in 1725, by Fre- derick Augustus, king of Poland and elector of Saxony, who, in the inscription first mentioned, is styled “ the father of his country, the Titus of his age, and the delight of mankind.” Duties upon wine seem to have been very early levied by the kings of England. Prisage was a custom due to the king of the wines imported by the merchants of England: of every ship having 20 tuns or more, 2 tuns, viz. 1 before the mast, and the other behind, paying 20s. for each tun, f certa prisa, recta prisa, and regia prisaj or regular custom to the king, according to the manner of old time, 31 Eliz. cap 1. hence it appears, that prisage was due by prescription, and that it was certainly of ancient time ordain- ed to be paid. It was also called butlerage, because the king’s chief butler received it by virtue of his office ; and prisage, because it was a certain taking, or purveyance for the king’s use. In some places, a privilege of exemption seems to have prevailed from the payment of this custom, as in London and other Cinque ports which are mentioned in the statute 1 Henry VIII. cap. 5. as being with other places free of prisage and butlerage by grant, custom and otherwise. ASSISTANT. 45 And it was the usual practice of the equity side of the Exchequer to cause single prisage to be paid for 9J tuns, and double prisage for 19 tuns: but strictly it was held, that no prisage was payable except for 10 tuns, and yet 9^ was construed fraud apparent; and the reason why more was not imported in one ship, was to de- fraud the king’s revenue. But, if only 9 tuns were imported, prisage was rarely allowed without evidence and proof of fraud; and where less than 9 tuns were imported, prisage was never paid; and as it was then an equitable construction against the letter of the law, that 9J tuns should pay prisage; so by equity, if 10 tuns were laden, and by leakage 9 tuns were only imported, no prisage was paid; for here was equity against equity, which must take place as well against the king, as for him, &c. There is a record of king John’s grant to the wine merchants of Aquitain, trading for wines thence into England, of divers grants and liber- ties, rendering to the crown their custom: in consequence of which, all merchants and stran- gers agreed to pay the same by the carta mer- catoria, or by the load brought into the market, &c. There are a few of the modes that were used in levying the duties upon wines in olden times, but to enter into the present mode and acts of parliament respecting the duties on wines, which are now more direct, and very exorbitant, would take a volume of itself, therefore, we shall dispense with it, and pass on to that which is more important, as the Excise will have its full de- mand, be what it may. 46 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of the Landing and Cellaring of Foreign Wines. It will be of some importance to give a few directions how foreign wines ought to be treated after they have been imported into this country. On landing foreign wines, the less they are exposed upon the quay the better, to prevent their fretting, for wines are always affected by the seasons, and more or less by climate. March and April are reckoned to be the only time proper for shipping wines from France, for if they are shipped in these months, they will be landed in England and Ireland, in the same degree of temperature. For the great art, and which must be very important, is to keep wines so that they may not fret, which is done by keeping them in the same degree of heat in spring and fall of the year. The wines of Bourdeaux are subject to changes that may be dangerous, if not prevented by necessary rackings; these changes are solely the effect of the seasons. But if wines are chil- led, and of course turn foul, from being shipped and landed in cold weather, they will soon recover, by putting them in a warm vault well covered with saw-dust, for as soon as they are in the vault they ought to be covered up. But if shipped and landed in summer, if the smallest degree of fermentation be found in them, take out the bungs, and dip the bung cloths in brandy, adding to each cask a quart of brandy, stirring it about with a rumaging staff, and leave the bungs loose for some days to give it time to cool; and if in a fortnight, or three weeks, the fermentation do not cease, and the wine become bright, ASSISTANT. 47 to prevent it becoming acetous, it will be proper to rack it, (matching the hogsheads with brimstone;) if the wines have age, or be for present use, or sale, they should be fired; and when fine bung it up tight, and let it remain so until it is bottled. If wines new landed are wanted soon fit for the bottle, it will be necessary to fire them immediately, and let them remain bunged for about a month, to recover and settle after the firing, or if two months, so much the better, for wines bottled in high order come much sooner into a drinking state, than if bottled when flat. Wine must never be bottled the least foul, thick or muddy, which produces a tendency to fret; and if bottled in this state, it will never come to order, but may probably be lost, for this, there is no remedy, but repeated rackings; and care must be taken (after rinsing the hogsheads well and drawing them,) to burn a good piece of match in them, which cools the wine, and in no ways hurts the colour, for it recovers it again in a little time: but although it does, the process is absolutely necessary; for if wine is suffered to continue to fret, it will wear itself to nothing, and completely lose its substance. Wines bottled in good order, may be fit to drink in six months, but they are not in perfection before | twelve, and from that to two years they may continue so; but it would be improper to keep : them longer, for wines in general have not the ^ body they had formerly, from the vines being ! too much forced in their growth. It sometimes happens that wines that are stubborn will not fall to the bottom, with one or 48 SPIRIT DEALER’S even two finings. It will then be proper, and the only remedy, to give them five or six gallons of good strong wine, and fine them with the white of eggs, sand of marble, and a little salt. Bottled wine in winter should be well covered with saw dust, or sand, according to Sir Edward Berry, and if the vaults are cold and damp, strew it deep on the floor; if saw dust is thrown upon the hogsheads, and their sides covered some inches thick, it will prevent them from fretting. The same treatment is to be given to white w ines, only that they require to be higher matched, such as Muscadine, Frontignac, &c. which being often sweetened with honey, are very subject to fret, and these wanes only frequent rackings, with a great deal of brimstone can cool. Hermitage, from not being sufficiently dried, and possessing more richness than claret, is also very liable to come on the fret, and will require much the same treatment as white wines. Attention should be particularly paid to bottle in fine weather when the wind is northerly; but to avoid frosty weather, the months of April and Octo- ber, are favourable months for bottling; the best time to bottle port wines, is four years after the vintage, and to keep them two years in the bottles before you begin to use them. When wines are racked off the lees, they are immediately passed through a flannel bag into close-necked jars, and bottled; there will be very little lost by rackings, as the wine, when fine, may serve for filling up. The academy of Munich gives a new mode of ASSISTANT. 49 improving and mellowing wines. The improv- ment recommended to notice is shortly thus. Wine should be kept in glass vessels having their orifices closed with bladders, as the means of mellowing or imparting to it the advantages of old age in a short period of time. Four ounces of red Rhenish wine of the growth of 1811, on the 21st December, 1812, were put into a tumbler of common white glass, three inches and a half deep, and two inches and a half wide. This was placed on a shelf, out of the heat of the sun, in a common sitting room. The spaces comprised by two and four ounces were marked on the outside of the glass by lines. The glass was opened by perceiving that two ounces of the wine had escaped through the dry bladder, which was the case in 81 days, and the following observations made upon the remaining wine. 1st. It was neither mouldy nor mothery, as it would have been, had it been left uncovered, or even stopped with cork for the same length of time, in the same kind of glass, and in the same situation. 2d. Dry chrystaline crusts or pellicles was perceived floating on the surface, these were found to be ordinary cream of tartar, from their sink- ing to the bottom on their being slightly shaken; from their being seen through a magnifier to consist of aggregated crystals; by their redish colour and semi-transparent substance; by their grating between the teeth; by the sour taste peculiar to that substance, as well as by their e- mitting same smell as that when burning, and de- D 50 SPIRIT DEALER’S positing the same kind of ashes. The quantity was too small for further chemical tests. 3d. A cream of tartar, precisely similar, subsided to the bottom of the glass. 4lh. The wine was of a dark colour, yet brighter and finer than that bottled in the ordinary way, and which, of course, had undergone no evaporation. 5th. Its flavour was stronger and more entice ing than that of the same wine ordinarily bottled. 6th. Its taste and flavour, though more spirituous and aromatic, was still in another way milder, softer, and more grateful to the palate; or in a word, more mellow than the other. 7th. Its proportion of alcohol was one half greater than in the ordinary bottled wine of the same growth. Wine concentrated in the same way was afterwards submitted to closer tests, and experiments were repeated on some of a different kind, but still red, and the above results were uniformly confirmed. Notice was given of experiments to be made upon a much greater scale, and some observations resulting from those already made, of which the following is a part. It is well known that water escaped through bladder dried, but that it did not admit of an equally free and ready passage to the spirituous portion of wine as to the aqueous, seems a new and not unimportant discovery. By this treatment of wine no extraneous al- terative is used, and it is left to rid itself spontaneously of the superfluous, coarse, sharp, sour salts, by the evaporation of the water in which they are held in solution. ASSISTANT. 51 - Every one knows that wine standing upright in a half emptied bottle, either open or ever so well corked, for several weeks together, will spoil and become mothery and sour. By covering the bottle with bladder, wine (red wine only has been tried) may be preserved under the same circumstances, for a year together, without any such consequences. If the mouth of the bottle should not be longer than the ordinary, an ounce would not have been wanted; and the remainder not injured but improved. Thus it cannot be denied, that dry cork is a very different guard to wine from dry bladder. The mellowness acquired by wine kept in the cask, and which is ascribed to age, would seem to be an effect from the same cause, viz. the wine evaporating its watery particles through the wood, and depositing its salts (or tartar) on the sides of the cask, in the shape of films or concentred crusts of various thicknesses. Probably the spirituous particles of wine rise at the same time and in the same manner as the aqueous to the inner surface of the bladder; but the spirituous particles seem to meet with an opposition to their egress, not experienced by the aqueous; thus we have in a bladder a substance well adapted to separate spirituous particles from the aqueous. As the wine wastes by keeping in the wood, so fresh wine should be added to supply the want, or else the whole spoils; this is not the case under the new treatment. Wood lets out alcohol, (the preserver of wine) along with the water, but bladder does not. n 3 52 SPIRIT DEALER’S Bladder keeps out the atmospheric air, so as to prevent fermentation and the turning of the wine to vinegar, which the dry staves of a half emptied cask will not do; and of course fermentation takes place in all casks of wine where the due replenishing is omitted. Wine cannot receive from glass the taint which it is well known it will acquire when kept in wood, where occasionally both colour and taste are altered, and it becomes an infusion. The degree of improvement or mellowness which is introduced into wine, treated as above, in twelve months, is said to be equal to that which would be induced in the cask in twelve years. The shallower the glass, and the wider the orifice, the sooner the same effects are produced. Another advantage is, that in the glass vessel we can always perceive the degree of evaporation that has taken place, and regulate the process at will. From the above it appears, that to cover the mouth of the bottles with bladder instead of using cork, would ripen the wine much sooner, and keep it better from souring. When wines are to be shipped for warm countries, it will be highly necessary to rinse the hogsheads well with brandy; and in bottling, many rinse the bottles and corks with brandy also, which is a most excellent improvement. Wines that have remained a certain time (three or four months) in a vault, and has precipitated more or less lees, ought never to be sent into the country without first racking them, other- ASSISTANT. 53 wise they may be liable to fret, by the jumbling of the casks in the carriage, and if bottled in that state, run every risk of being lost. Wines intended for immediate drinking, will be fined on the shipping, and in a few weeks after they are landed, will be fit for the bottles. Upon the whole wine, and the matters produced from wine, as brandy, spirit of wine, cream of tartar, &c. are also extensively useful: the lees of wine is also used in the manufacture of hats, these lees, and also tartar, by incineration, (combustion, ) yield a larger quantity, than any other vegetable matter of pure fixed alkali (salts.) Wine has been preferred at all times, and in all countries, to every other alimentary liquor; like all other liquors, it is good and salutary when taken in small quantities, but it is pernicious when drunk habitually, and in large quantities. Wine becomes then a true slow poison, and the more dangerous as it is the more agreeable. But if we observe more particularly the effects of wine, we will perceive very great differences depending on different constitutions ; some persons drink habitually large quantities of pure wine, without any sensible inconvenience, or disease, or apparent shortening of their lives; (a certain man was rebuking another for getting continually drunk, telling him at the same time that it was slow poison, and each glass he drank was another nail to his coffin. “Very slow indeed,” replied the man, “ for I have been drinking of it these 80 years, and the poison, as yet, has had no effect;) but on the contrary, many 54 SPIRIT DEALER’S others do also entirely destroy their health, and shorten their lives by the habitual use of wine, even in small quantities, and mixed with water. It may therefore be a matter of some importance to know the signs by which, according to the opinion of medical men, wine may be known to be hurtful to the constitution. We may know that wine does not suit a person, when, after drinking of it moderately, (for if drunk immoderately, it has the same effect at all times,) his breath acquires a vinous smell; when it occasions sour belchings, and slight pains in the head; and when drinking it more copiously than usual, it produces nausea, (loathing,) and drunkenness, especially when the drunkenness is of the morose, peevish, quarrel- some, and irascible kind. Unhappy is that person who suffers these effects from wine, and notwithstanding, persists in the habitual use of it. These imprudent persons never fail of coming to a miserable death, preceded by languor; their common age being little above 50 years. Those who digest wine well, do not suffer so sensibly the forementioned effects of drinking it. Their drunkenness on the contrary, is accompanied with vivacity and joy. Such persons seldom die of obstructions and dropsy; neverthe- less, wine is so much more dangerous to them, that as they suffer none of the effects so disagreeable, they are more liable to contract the habit of drinking too much: drinkers of this class, generally Jive longer than the former, but their constitution generally changes before 60 years of age; and their downhill of life, is either ASSISTANT. 55 a severe gout, or palsy, stupidity, imbecility, or an accumulation of these diseases. A certain writer, when speaking upon drunkenness, draws its picture in true colours. He says, “ Drunk- enness expels reason, drowns the memory, dis- tempers the body, diminishes strength, inflames the blood, causes internal, external, and incur- able wounds, is a witch to the senses, is a devil to the soul, a thief to the purse, the beggar’s companion, a wife’s woe, childrens’ sorrow, the picture of a beast, and self-murderer, who drinks to others good health, and robs himself of his own.” Wine merchants and spirit dealers, will not, I hope, suppose, by drawing this picture of drunkards, that I mean to terrify them at themselves, and put them from drinking; no, by no means, but those that suit the above character, ought to be avoided by all retailers of spirituous liquor, at least they ought not to be credited, for they generally pay well for some little time, and take drink in trust for some little time more, and, when payment is asked, and more credit refused, they will give abusive language, leave off fre- quenting the house, and try to put every one else from it also; and it is well known, that there is no redress at any Scottish court to receive the price of liquor given in this way. On a subject so important to the health of the community, and to the true enjoyment of social conviviality, we may hope to stand excused for having dwelt so long; the greater the prevalence of the use of wine, the greater the importance of its being good. It is the base alloy, so con- 56 SPIRIT DEALER’S tinually served up to the palate, which has adulterated the taste, and injured the generous character of the grape, in the cool and temperate persuasions of philosophical and reflecting minds: it is the impolitic art of the masters of some houses of public resort, tavern 'wine, a proverbial sarcasm; and these combined, have contributed to keep alive the race of Staphylus or Amphi- tryon, who are driven to the extremity of spoiling the most pure and grateful liquor of nature, and the most agreeable flavour of art, by an un- congenial mixture of them, to avoid the fermenting crudities of adulteration. Having thus far treated upon wines, I shall enter a little more particularly upon the different modes of management, and give a few receipts for the same. Of the management of Wine Vaults. To manage wine vaults in a proper manner, the principal object to be attended to, is to keep them of a temperate heat. In order to effect which, care must be taken to close up every aperture and opening, that there may be no admission given to the external air. As I have observed before, the floor of your vault should likewise be covered with saw dust, which must not be suffered to get too dry and dusty, but every now and then, new saw dust must be added, else, when you are bottling your wine, some of the old dust might fly into it, and materially injure it: in most vaults in winter, it would be very beneficial, and not only so, but highly necessary, to have a stove, to keep up a proper degree of ASSISTANT. 57 waYmth, which must be as near temperate as you can get it. In the summer, it will be best to keep them as cool and airy as possible; and to preserve the same temperature, the thermometer should be fixed in that place of the vault, where your wines for sale, or bottling, are kept; and it ought to be carefully, and punctually (as it is truly essential,) kept as low as temperate. Of the Racking of Foreign Wines. Having your cellar of a temperate heat, you must also take care that your casks be sweet and clean; if they have an acid, sour, or musty smell, it may be remedied by matching; (see match-making,) and if not clean, rinse them well out with clean cold water, and after they are drained of the water, rinse them well out with a quart of brandy, which brandy, put afterwards into your ullage cask. Then, place your clean empty cask on the stillage, and put in your large funnel; (if the wine you are going to rack off is fined, it will be best to rack it off with a cock of a larger size,) then, give your full cask vent, by taking the bung out, and having two clean cans in readiness, so that when you are emptying one, the other may be filling; by such means, the racking will be sooner accom- plished. When it ceases to run, put up your tilling jack, and get off all the fine possibly you can; afterwards, strain the lees or sediments at the bottom of the cask, through a flannel or linen bag, (see filtering bag,) and as much of it as runs through fine, without pressing, you may put 58 SPIRIT DEALER’S to the rest of the wine; but the bottoms particularly of Port wine, is generally put into the ullage cask without going through the filtering bag. In racking wine, that is on the stillage, a wine pump is to be preferred; but if the casks be conveniently placed, it may sometimes be seen convenient to use the syphon. Of the Management and Improving of Red Port Wine. If your wines be sound, and not partaking of the acid, but poor and thin, and wanting the body, colour and flavour, which it is necessary they should have; draw off 40 gallons, and return the same quantity of young and rich wines, of such as are generally brought to this country for that purpose. To a gallon of which, put three gills of colouring, (see colouring,) with a quart of wine or brandy, in which half an ounce of cochineal has been previously pounded and mixed; whisk these ingredients well together, and put the mixture into your cask, stirring it well about with the rumaging staff; and if not bright in twelve days, you may fine it for use; but at different times previous to this, add to it a gallon of good brandy; and if your port wines are short of having the body required, add two gallons of brandy to each pipe, (or one gallon to the hogshead,) as you may find it necessary. If the wines be in stock, or for sale, put it in by a quart or two at a time; it feeds the wine better in this way, than by putting it all in at once; but if the wines are in a bonded cellar, procure ASSISTANT. 59 a funnel with a long pipe that will go down to the bottom of the cask, by this, your brandy will ; not fail of completely incorporating with the | wine. When your wine is thus made pleasant and fine, you may bottle it off, and afterwards take care to pack it in a temperate place with saw-dust or sand. But it will not be properly fit for drinking for twelve months at the least. When laying your wine down in bottles upon their sides, new saw-dust should never be used, as that causes it to fret too much, and is ready to communicate through the corks a strong tur- ') pentine unpleasant smell, to prevent which, mix new and old saw-dust together, or let it lie some ' time before you pack with it. Of Recovering Prided Wines. 1st. Take a bottle of red Port wine which is pricked, (soured,) and add to it half an ounce of spirit of wine tartarized, that is, spirit of wine mixed with tartaric acid, or (cream of tartar,) nitre, (saltpetre,) alum, &c.; after it is mixed with the wine, shake it well, and set it by for a few days, and you will find it much improved. Or, if spirit of wine cannot at the time be conve- j niently got, take double strong whisky, which 1 will have the same effect nearly. Of liecovering Prick’d Wines. 2d. Take a fresh empty Port pipe, well cleaned, ; and rack half of your wine into it; then take a match of six inches long, and an inch 60 SPIRIT DEALER’S and a half broad, one for each of the pipes, and set fire to them, then put them into the bung holes with one end made fast by driving in the bung very tight. Then, let them remain for six minutes, after which, roll them well about, and the day following, rack them both into one, adding thereto, eight ounces of oyster powder, (see oyster powder,) and four ounces of bay salt, together with an ounce of tartarized spirit of wine. After which, take the rumaging staff and stir it well, then drive in your bung tight, and let it remain four weeks. After which, get another fresh emptied pipe, (or take the old one and match it, which will do equally well,) and rack off your wine from the lees, and then the lees you put through the filtering bag, and add to the rest. Then taste your wines, and if you find them sound and improved, take a good hogshead of new wine, and mix them together with two gallons of brandy, a quart of colouring, (see colouring,) and two ounces cochineal, (see improving of red Port wine,) by this method, you will make three hogsheads of good wine, (when otherwise, it would have been completely lost,) after which, you may fine it for bottling, either for exportation or home use, and it will be fit for using when six months in the bottles. Of Improving a Pipe of Sherry Wine. If your Sherry wine be new and fiery to the taste, which often happens, rack it off into a sweet cask well fumed and matched, and add thereto six gallons of good mellow Lisbon wine, ASSISTANT. 61 which will take away the fiery taste, and make it drink mild and soft; and to give it a fine head, take a quart of honey, mix and whisk it with a gallon of your wine, and put it into the cask before racking. By the above method, Sherry wine for present use will be greatly improved and mellowed, and it will drink as well as when old. Sherry wine kept in vaults, for sale, should always be fined, as it improves and makes it more pleasant, Of Improving a Pipe of Madeira Wine. Cape Madeira is a very strong and excellent wine, and is very much esteemed in Britain, but this wine requires age before it be drunk, fully as much as any that is imported into this king- dom; for when new, it is stubborn to manage, and extremely fiery. On which, many wine merchants send their wines round by the West Indies before they come to this country, by which they are greatly improved in the voyage, and sell at a much higher price than that imported direct. Yet, notwithstanding, considerable quantities of it is imported direct from Madeira, and this, with age and proper management, may be made as good wine as that which goes the round to the West Indies. Madeira should be kept in a place somewhat warmer than Port wine, for this reason, therefore it requires a good body; which, if it has not, you must feed it with brandy as you do other wines; or if it is deficient in mellowness and flavour, add to the pipe two gallons of the best Malmsey wine, which will greatly improve E 62 SPIRIT DEALER’S it. If your wine be new, it will require a greater quantity of finings than wine that has acquired a greater age. Of Improving White Wine.. If your wine be any way unpleasant to the taste, rack one half of it off, and to the remaining half add a gallon of new sweet milk, a handful of bay salt, and as much rice; but first take a pestle, whisk and beat them well together for half an hour, put it into the cask and fill it up, roll the cask well about to mix it, then stillage it, and in a few days it will be much improved. But if your white wine is become foul, and has lost its colour, for the pipe take a gallon of new milk, put it into the cask, stir it about with the rumaging staff, then set it with the bung upwards, and when it is settled, put in three ounces of isinglass made into a pulp or jelly, along with eight ounces of loaf sugar scraped fine; rumage it well, and on the day following, bung it up, and in four days more it will be fine, and have a good steady colour. OJ' Fining a Pipe of Claret. Claret should be very carefully managed, and when bottled, requires to be kept warm among saw-dust. In the fining of Claret take the whites and shells of a dozen fresh eggs, beat them in a can, and whisk them till they rise in a thick froth; then add a little wine, and whisk again; if the pipe is full, take out as much wine as make ASSISTANT. 63 room for the finings, stir the wine well about, after which, put in your finings, stirring the whole well with the rumaging stalf for five minutes ; then put in that which was taken out, leaving the bung out for four hours that the froth may fall; then bung it up, and in ten days it will be bright and fine, and fit for bottling. Note. Red Hermitage and Burgundy should be managed after the same manner as Claret; White Hermitage requires the same management, except the colouring, which it does not require. Of Fining a Pipe of Sherry Wine. To fine a pipe of Sherry wine.—Take two ounces of isinglass, beat it with a hammer until it can easily be pulled in pieces, and put it into four pints of cyder, and let it remain 24- hours, till it becomes soft and into a jelly; after which, put it into a vessel with two quarts of wine, and whisk and beat it well up with the whites and shells of eight fresh eggs; then, if your pipe be full, take out six gallons to make room for the finings, and take the rumaging staff and stir the wine in the pipe well about with it, then nearly fill your vessel of finings with wine, and whisk it well, put it in the pipe, take the staff, stir it all about for the space of six minutes or more, then put in the wine taken out, and put in the bung loose, that it may have a little vent or air; in three days you may bung it up tight, and in twelve days it will be fit for bottling ; when it is bottled, pack it up in a temperate place. 64* SPIRIT DEALER’S Of Fining a Pipe of Pale Sherry. Pale Sherry is not so fiery as common Sherry,, and is generally shipped from Spain, but is of- ■ ten made from common Sherry in this country, ,, by putting two quarts skim milk and the white t of ten eggs together, and beating and whisking ; them well up in a can, until properly mixed, , which put in along with your finings, in the : same manner as for common Sherry. If your Sherry be without body, poor and thin, , feed it up with good brandy, in the same man- • ner as you are directed in the management of I other wines. Of Fining a Pipe of new Madeira Wine. Take of isinglass three ounces, and dissolve it, , (or if it be of sufficient age, two ounces will do) ( and take a quart of skim milk and two gills of I marble sand, put these together, whisk them i well up with some wine; if the pipe is full, take ! out a little to make room, and stir it well about, , then put in your finings, and stir the whole with f the rumaging staff for eight minutes, after which, , put in the wine which was taken out, and let it . have vent for four days, then close it up, and 1 in the course of a fortnight, it will be fine, and I fit for bottling; Madeira should be packed with i saw-dust in a warm place, when bottled. Of Fining a Pipe of Vidonia Wine. The cheapest wine imported into this country, ASSISTAKT. 65 is that wine which gets the name of Vidonia or TenerifFe wine, as it comes from that place. When first imported into this country, it has a harsh, acid, and sour taste, but if properly managed, it will nearer resemble Cape Madeira wine, than any other, so much so, that it is often made to pass for it. To improve it, and take away the harsh disagreeable taste, you must fine it, and then rack it off upon the lees of good Madeira or White Port wine, and fine it again with a small quantity of finings; and if 40 gallons of good Madeira were added to a pipe, it would pass for Madeira. To fine a pipe of Vidonia, dissolve two ounces of isinglass, and beat it well up, and whisk it with the white and shells of half a dozen fresh eggs, and add to them a gill of marble sand; then manage it as you do other finings for wine; Vidonia, when bottled, should be packed with saw-dust in a warm place. Of Fining a Pipe of Lisbon Wine. Of Lisbon wine, there are two sorts, viz. the mild and the dry; but if you have any of them, you can be at no loss, as, by the help of other wines, you can easily make the other. For example, if your Lisbon wines be dry, take out of your pipe 40 gallons, and put in the same quantity of Calcavella wine, stir it well about, and this will make a pipe of good Lisbon wine, very mild and pleasant. Also, if your Lisbon is mild, take out the same quantity as above mentioned, and fill your pipe up with Malaga Sherry wine, stirring about the same as the other, 66 SPIRIT DEALER’S and you will have a very good dry Lisbon wine. The same kind of finings used for Vidonia, will answer equally well for Lisbon wines. Or you may fine it with the white and shells of 20 eggs and a small handful of salt beat together till it froth, and then mixed with a little of the wine, which pour into the pipe, and stir it about, letting it have vent for three or four days, after which, bung it up, and in a week it will be fine. Lisbon wine should also be, when bottled, packed with saw-dust, and put in a temperate place. Of Fining a Pipe of Bucella Wine. This is a thin summer wine, but pleasant; yet by racking and fining, and careful management, may be very much improved. There are two sorts of this wine, the one dry, and the other much milder. Bucella wine is fined in the same way as Madeira, only observe, that if you do not want it very pale, you must keep the milk out of the finings. This wine is very tender and ill to manage, and should be fed with brandy, and great care must be taken to keep it temperate, for if it be too hot, or too cold, it will be in danger of turning foul; and when bottled, great care should be taken that the eorks be particularly good, and the bottles packed in the same manner and temperature as Lisbon wine. Of the Fining a Pipe of Malmsey Wine. Malmsey is a full-bodied and sweet wine, but is scarce, and brings a high price. In purchas- ASSISTANT. 67 ing it, see that it is full-bodied, pleasant, fine, and of a good colour: and in fining, you may proceed as in the Madeira, or thus;—Take 20 fresh eggs, beat the whites, yolks, and shells all together, and manage it in the same manner as is done with other finings. Note. Tent wine, Muskadine, Sack and Bas- tard wines, should be managed in the same manner as Malmsey wine; only to the eggs, for a pipe, add two quarts of skimmed milk, and proceed in the same manner as in other wines with the finings. Malaga, Pacceretta, Sweet-Mountain and Calcavella wines, should be managed and fined in the same way as Lisbon wine. Vindegraw and Old-Hock are very pleasant wines, but remarkably thin, and should be fed, as directed in the management of other wine, with good brandy, and fined in the same manner, if thought necessary. Old Hock is a Rhenish, and Vindegraw a French wine, and is very commonly drank after meals. White Creamery generally comes from France in bottles, and it should always be observed to pack them up in a Cold place. 0/ Fining a Pipe of Port Wine. It is the opinion of those who have studied the management of wine, that red Port wine should be bottled in its rough state; for this end, they stir it about well before they bottle it. But I beg leave to differ from them, as in the lees, a considerable quantity of acid is contained, by SPIRIT DEALER’S which a fermentation may begin in the bottles, and of course the wine runs a very great risk of being completely spoiled; and at any rate, no wine whatever can be the worse of being bright j. and fine. It would be much better to keep it ; in the cask, in a temperate vault or cellar, until jj it becomes fine and bright, or else fine it with i prepared finings. The most part, however, of the experienced and extensive vintners, always i fine their Port wines, both for selling and 1 bottling, in the cask, as that takes away their foulness, and renders the wines soft and plea- < sant to the taste. The method of fining, how- 1 j ever, is as follows:—Take the white and shells of eight fresh eggs, beat them in a wooden ves- ■ sel till they froth, then add some wine, and i whisk the mixture again, take out five or six | gallons of the pipe, to make room for the finings, | stir it well about with the rumaging staff, then put in your finings, and stir the whole for six minutes, and put in the wine formerly taken out, leaving the bung out four hours, that the I froth may fall; bung it up, and in a fortnight it will be fine, and fit for bottling. Note. If the weather be above temperate, you must whisk up a quart of fresh water sand to your finings, which is a great improvement. Of Making a Match for Wines. To make matches for the fumigation of wine casks, is very essential for the preservation of the wines. Melt some brimstone in an iron ladle, and dip into it a piece of coarse linen cloth; and ASSISTANT. 69 when cold, cut it in slips of about an inch broad and six inches long, each of these slips is considered a match. When a match is to be used, set fire to it, putting it into the bung hole with one end fastened under the bung so that it may not fall to the bottom of the cask, drive the- bung in tight, and let it remain three hours before you remove it. Of the general Method of Using Finings. Put your finings (when prepared) into a can, with a little of the wine you are going to fine, whisk them all together till they are completely mixed, fill the can up nearly with more wine, whisking well about again, after which, if your cask be full, take out six gallons to make room, then take the rumaging staff and give it a good stirring; then whisk your finings up and put them in the cask, afterwards stirring it well up with your staff for five or six minutes. Then drive the bung in, and bore a hole with a gim- blet to give it vent for four days, at the end of that time drive in the vent peg. Of the Management of Claret Wine. Claret is a wine, the body of which is not strong (although it requires to be of a good age, before it is fit for use,) therefore it should be managed with care; and the most approved method, is to keep it in a vault that is alway of a heat nearly temperate, it also should be fed with a pint of the best French brandy, 70 SPIRIT DEALER’S once a fortnight. You must taste it also frequently, to know what state it is in, and temper the distribution of your brandy, as you judge the state of the wine requires, taking care never to put too much in at a time, especially into those wines that are for immediate sale, as it would tend to destroy the flavour of the wine, and make it have a fiery taste; but if a little only be added at a time, it incorporates with it, feeds, mellows and improves it greatly. Of Colouring Claret. Irf. If your Claret be faint, and have lost its colour, rack it off into a fresh empty cask, upon the lees of good Claret, then bung it up, putting the bung downwards, for a few days, that the lees may mix through it, after which, turn it up, and let it remain until it be fine, and if the colour still be not dark enough, rack it off again into a cask that has been newly drawn off, leaving the lees in the bottom, then add one ounce of cochineal (previously beat in a mortar, and infused three hours in a quart of wine) shake it up, and put it into the cask, and your wine by this method, will acquire a good body and a perfect colour. Or take a pound of turnsole, and put it into two gallons of wine, let it lie and infuse two days, put it into the cask, and turn the bung down for a night, and next day turn it up again, giving it a roll about, after which, the colour will be perfect. ASSISTANT. 71 Of Colouring Claret. ‘2d. Take of damsons or black sloes, what quantity you please, and stew them with some of the ! deepest coloured wine you can get, putting in as j much sugar as will make it into a syrup; a pint ;; of this liquor will colour a hogshead of Claret; it is also good for Port and other wines, and may be kept in glass bottles ready for use. Of Claret that Drinks Foul. 3 If your Claret drinks foul, rack it off from the dregs, on some fresh lees of its own kind, and * take a dozen of pippins, (apples of a particular 1 kind) pare them, and take away the hearts, then put them into your cask; but if that is not sufficient, take a handful of the oak of Jerusalem, and bruise it, put it in your wine and stir it well. This will not only take away the foul smell, but ; also give it a good and very agreeable flavour. ' Of the Management and Fining of White Port Wine. White Port wine is very backward and ill to manage, and it is necessary that it be racked two or three times before it be fit for bottling, and become soft and pleasant. When your wine has been some time in the cellar, take three ounces of isinglass, beat and hammer it very small, and put it into half a gallon sour cyder for two days, then whisk and stir it into a can with a little wine, until a froth 72 SPIRIT DEALER’S rise, and if the weather be temperate, put into! it a gill or more of marble sand, whisking them well together; stir your wine well with the rumaging staff, and put in your finings, stirring it well about again for five or six minutes; also, it i is necessary to leave the bunghole loose for three days, after which, bung it up for a fortnight, then rack it off in a Madeira pipe, using one- half of the finings you did formerly: by this method, your wines will be much improved, and made to drink soft, agreeable and pleasant. Of making Port and Claret Wine drink Rougher. To every quart of Claret, add two quarts of sloes, stew them in an oven, or over a slow fire, till a good part of their moisture is evaporated, then pour out the liquor and squeeze out the dregs; a quart will be sufficient for a hogshead, and by adding a great or small quantity, you can give it any degree of roughness you please; or damsons not fully ripe, may be used for the same purpose. Of making Wine settle well. If wine be foul and unsettled, take a pint of wheat, and boil it in two pints of water till it burst and become soft; then squeeze it through a linen cloth, and put a pint of the liquor into a hogshead of unsettled white wine, stir it well about, when in a few days, it will settle well, and become fine and bright. ASSISTANT. 73 Of making Oyster Poxoder. Take some fresh oyster shells, wash them, and scrape off the rough yellow stuff of the outside, lay them on an iron plate, and place it on a fire, having little smoke, until they become red hot; then set them aside to cool, pound them to a powder, and sift them through a fine sieve, after which they will be fit for use, or put the powder in bottles, well corked up, and laid aside to be kept for use, in a dry place, as damp will have the effect of spoiling it, and making it unfit for any kind of use. Of the making of Colouring for Red Wines. Take half . pound of turnsole rags, put them in an earthen vessel, and pour upon them, a quart of boiling water, (or take four ounces, and pour upon them, a pint of water,) after which, cover the vessel up close, and let it stand till cold, afterwards strain off the liquor through a cloth; a little of this will colour a large quantity of wines, and you may put in any quantity according to the tinge wanted: it may be steeped in brandy instead of water, and if it be made into a syrup with sugar, it will keep longer, and be convenient for use at any time. Note. It is a method generally followed by wine coopers and large dealers, to steep the turnsole rags in cold wine for 24 hours, and then to wring it out with the hands and use it; this method is reckoned the best, and is also very- convenient. I 74- spirit dealer’s Of the Filtering Bag. The filtering bag is a very necessary article for wine and spirit merchants, wherewith they may fine all their bottoms of wines and foul spirits, (although I prefer a filtering cask for j spirits, the method of making which I will describe in another place) though ever so foul. If your compound liquors be too thin, and do not come off sufficiently fine after repeated strainings, take some alabaster powder, (soft white marble or any powder similar, that will not give the liquor a bad taste) and mix it with the liquor, as all that is necessary is to thicken the liquor and carry all the heterogeneous particles with it to the bottom, and at the same time, give it no ill flavour. This powder is made by battering the stone with a hammer, till sufficiently small. Take a yard of linen or flannel, (but flannel is the best) not too fine, angle it up so as to have the bottom run to a point, and the top or mouth as broad as the cloth will allow. Let it be well sewed up the side, and the msuth fixed or sewed round a wooden hoop, then tie the hoop in four places with cords to support it; when you make use of it, put a pail or can under it to receive the liquor, then fill the bag with the sediments, which let run into the can below, until it will run no more without pressing; (which must not be done) after the sediments has ceased to run, turn out the bag and wash it in three or four clear waters, then hang it up ASSISTANT. 75 to dry in an airy place, that it may not contract a musty and disagreeable smell. Dealers in wines should have two bags, one for the red, and the other for the white wines, as the bag used for the red wines, would hurt the colour of the white. Of Acids. Chemists enumerate to us 31 different kinds of acids, but in a general sense, acid denotes such things as affect the palate with a sharp and sour taste, and have the property of changing blue vegetable colours into red. All perfect wines have naturally some acidity, and when this acidity prevails too much, the wine is said to be prick’d or sour, and if wine is not carefully managed when it arrives at this state, it will soon turn into vinegar; but as we have mentioned before, that the alkaline salt, as that of tartar, mixed with a small portion of spirit of wine, has a direct power of taking off the acidity, and the spirit of wine operates as a great preservative of wines in general; by this operation, wines, if not too much prick’d (or soured,) may be perfectly recovered by it, and may remain saleable for a considerable time. Malt liquor may be used in the same way, if just turning sour, with equal propriety and advantage, (see malt liquor) in many cases, to the no small profit and satisfaction of the dealer. To ascertain the comparative strength of acids, saturate them with alkaline salts, such as that of soda, pot ash, &c. and that acid is supposed 76 SPIRIT DEALER’S to be the strongest, that requires the greatest quantity of alkaline salt to cause the total dis- appearance of its acid properties. It may not be improper to observe, that the best way of ' using the alkaline salts is in a solution of pure water; by this solution, if the tip of the tongue be touched, the proportional strengths of different acids may be pretty accurately known and determined. OF VINEGAR. Vinegar is an agreeable and penetrating liquor, prepared from wines, cyder, perry, porter, ales, beer, sugar, raisins, gooseberries, currants, cowslips, refuse of fruits, milk, &c. and is of considerable use as a medicine and as a sauce. The utility of vinegar as a condiment for preserving and seasoning both animal and vegetable substances in the various articles of food, is very generally known, it also affords an agreeable beverage when combined with water, in the proportion of a table spoonful of vinegar to half a pint of water. It is also often employed as a medicine in inflammatory and putrid diseases, when other medicine cannot be procured. It also greatly contributes to disperse foul, stinking and mephitical exhalations issuing out of the earth, and consequently tends to the purification of the air. Vinegar may be also called a vegetable acid liquor, produced by the second fermentation, or that which succeeds the spirituous, and is called the acid or acetous fermentation. ASSISTANT. 77 But in all cases, it is not absolutely necessary that the acetous fermentation be preceded by the spirituous, as was formerly supposed, for a great variety of vegetables are capable of under* going the acetous, without passing through the spirituous: for example—Cabbages steeped in water in the making of sour crout; farina in the starch-makers; sour water and dough itself, which if it be suffered to ferment a little too violently, becomes acid, and gives a very perceptible sour taste to the bread. Every liquor which has completely undergone the spirituous fermentatioh, is spontaneously and necessarily disposed to undergo the acid fermentation; accordingly, every vinous liquor continually tends to become vinegar, and is actually changed into it sooner or later, according to circumstances, unless this change is prevented by some obstacle to fermentation in general. Various methods are employed by different manufacturers, in the making of vinegar, and they are generally thought to be possessed of some secret to effect this purpose; but no more seems necessary for the making of good vinegar, than to employ the liquor to be made into vinegar, and expose it to the heat of about 80 degrees Fahrenheit’s thermometer, or 20 degrees below blood heat; for this fermentation (although it may commence at 20 or 25 degrees) requires more heat than the spirituous, and it also excites more heat and tumult; and although it ought to be allowed to proceed with briskness, yet it is necessary to check it from time to time. Vine- gar is stronger in a sealed bottle, than when f 3 78 SPIRIT DEALER’S free air is admitted, and it seems, that however much the process may be looked upon as a secret, the principal part of the operation is effected by nature. Of the Making of Vinegar. The process followed by Boerhaave for the making of vinegar, is still the process most commonly used, and seems to be very well con- trived for the making of vinegar. Take two casks or hogsheads of any size you please, and place two false bottoms of wicker work about a foot from the bottom of each of them, upoti which the refuse of the fruits, grape stalks, and vine twigs are placed, until the casks be nearly up to the top; one of the casks is to be filled up with the liquor to be made into vinegar, and the other half filled. The fermentation begins first in the cask that is half filled, and at the end of 24' hours after the commencement of the fermentation, fill up the half-filled cask from that which is quite full, and which, now in its turn, will be left only half full; 24' hours afterwards repeat the same operation, and thus go on al- ternately every 24; hours, until the vinegar is made, which is generally in 15 or 16 days, (but if the weather is very hot, the fermentative motion will need to be checked every 12 hours,) because, if the fermentation is not checked in due time, it will become violent, and the liquor will be so heated, that many of the spirituous parts on which the strength and quality of the vinegar depends, will be dissipated, so that no* ASSISTANT. 79 thing remains after the fermentation, but a vapid or dead liquor, sour no doubt, but spiritless and insufficient. The better to prevent the dissipation of the spirituous parts, it is a proper precaution to close the mouth of the half filled cask into which the liquor ferments, with a cover made of oak wood. But the full cask is always left open, that the air may act freely upon the liquor it contains, for it is not liable to the same inconveniency as the half filled cask, as it ferments but very slowly. When the motion appears to have nearly ceased, even in the half filled cask, it is a sure sign that the fermentation is finished; what remains then to be done, is to put the vinegar in- to casks closely stopped, and kept in a cool place. Vinegar receives its name from vine or vinea, as formerly it was only made from wine of grapes that were unripe, watery and sour, and it still retains the same name, although made from the juice of other fruits and liquors. The grape or raisin stalks used in the making of vinegar, in order to promote fermentation, are covered over with a viscid, oily and putrescent matter, during the fermentation, but when the process is over, the stalks are washed clean, and carefully preserved to promote the fermentation of more vinegar, because the acid with which they are soaked acts powerfully as a leaven or ferment, and likewise hastens it to take on the acid much sooner. The casks also that have been used for the preparation of vinegar, are to be cleansed from the above mentioned viscid 80 SPIRIT DEALER’S matter, and kept for the same use, as they are fitter than new casks for the preparation and making of it. In England, the vinegar-makers use some hundreds of small casks or vessels imperfectly closed, (which appears best suited for the process) disposed in the open air with the bung holes upwards, and each covered with a tile to exclude the rain. Also, beer is brewed of a proper strength from malt, expressly for this purpose, wherein the addition of hops is not used; upon the whole, wine is not much used in this country in the making of vinegar, but other matters susceptible of undergoing the vinous fermentation are used, such as cyder, perry, ale, beer, currants, raisins, the refuse of fruits, &c. Many persons make a good vinegar for domestic purposes, from coarse sugar or molasses mixed with water and exposed to the heat of the summer sun, in vessels closely stopped. Of helping Vinegar to Sour. In helping vinegar to sour, use any of the following means, viz. The dregs or faeces of acid wines, the lees of vinegar, cream of tartar finely pulverized, or reduced to powder, vinegar itself, a wooden vessel rinsed or drenched with vinegar, or one that has been long employed to contain it, stalks of raisins, the husks of grapes, wine that has been often mixed with its own feces, currants, cherries, crab apples, or other vegetables of an acid taste; baker’s leaven after ASSISTANT. 81 it has turned sour, or any of the above mixed together will effect the same purpose. It often happens that a thick scum will come to the top of the vinegar; when this is perceived, you must frequently put it down very gently to the bottom, as if this be neglected, it will grow very thick, and become of a green blueish colour, which will putrify and take away the acid taste from the vinegar; but by keeping it well down, it will be completely prevented. The following recipes will be found sufficient guides in the making and managing of the various kinds of vinegar, upon the cheapest and most approved methods. Of Wine Vinegar. To make wine vinegar, take any sort of wine that has gone through the vinous fermentation, and mix it with its own faeces, flowers, or ferment, and its tartar reduced to powder; or else the acid stalks of the grapes from whence the wine was obtained, (which contain a large portion of tartaric acid) mix them with the wine to be made into vinegar, into a vessel (if it can be got) that formerly held vinegar, and set it in a warm place, mixed with a sufficient quantity of the stems of the same, when it will re- new its fermentation, conceive heat, grow sour gradually, and soon after turn into vinegar, when you may rack it off into a clean cask, and bung it up for use. A'ofe. The wine which is generally converted into vinegar, and which for its cheapness is 82 SPIRIT DEALER’S commonly employed for that purpose, is such as has already become sour; athough the better and the more spirituous the wine, and also the more vinous spirit that can be retained in the vinegar, the better and stronger the vinegar will be. Of Cyder Vinegar. To make vinegar from cyder, it is not necessary to have the best, as the poorest sort of it will do as well, and to manage it, proceed in the following manner; draw off your cyder into a cask that has had vinegar in it before, then put some mashed apples into it, and set the whole in the sun, in a convenient place, and in ten days it may be drawn off into another cask, and close stopped up for use; this will make a very good table vinegar. Note. Vinegar may be made from perry in the same way as from cyder. Of Vinegarfrom the Refuse of Fruits. To make vinegar from the refuse of fruits, take the skins of raisins or grapes after they have been employed in the making of wine (or the refuse of fruits used for a similar purpose) and pour the quantity of boiling water upon them as in the table, and stir the whole well about, and set the cask in a warm place, closely covered, and the liquor in a few weeks will become a good vinegar; when it must be drawn off from ASSISTANT. 83 its sediments, and put into another cask, well bunged, not to admit external air; this also is a very excellent vinegar. Table. Water,No. of WeightFruit. of Water,No. of WeightFruit. of Gallons. lb. oz. dr. Gallons.SO lb.73 oz.2 10dr. 51 122 47 115 40 98 5 5 2010 2449 92 115 6050 122147 108 100 Example.—Five gallons require 12 pounds, 4> ounces, 11 drams fruit; and 60 gallons requires 147 pounds, 8 ounces, &c.

Of Raisin Vinegar. 1st. To make raisin vinegar the process is something different. Take Malaga raisins and spring water, the same proportion as in the Table, and put them in a vessel fit for the purpose, and place it in the sun, from the month of May to October, then run the liquor off into a strong close iron-bound cask to keep it from bursting, and press out the liquor from the sediments. The liquor will be thick and muddy when first run off and pressed, but will become fine and limpid in the cask, where it must remain three months untouched before it is drawn off, when it will prove an excellent vinegar. SPIRIT DEALER S Table. Water,No. of Weight of Water, Weight of Gallons. Raisins. Gallons.No. of Raisins. 120 20 60 O O 60 180150 0 0 Example.—Five gallons water requires 15 pounds raisins; and 50 gallons water requires 150 pounds raisins, &c. Of Raisin Vinegar. 2d. Add Malaga raisins and water together, same proportion as in the table, and put the whole ia a vessel and cover it up, then set it in the sun or any warm place, until properly soured and fit for use. Table. Water, Weight of Water, Weight of Gallons.No of lb.Raisins, oz. dr. Gallons.No. of lb. oz. dr. W 1 ZW U u Example.—One gallon water requires 2 pounds raisins; and 60 gallons water requires 120 pounds raisins. Of Raisin Vinegar. 3d. Put the raisins that you have used in the fermentation of cyder (See Cyder Making,) into an open headed cask, let them remain a fortnight ASSISTANT. 85 from the time your cyder was drawn off, in order that they may become sour, then put water, or the same liquor of which your cyder was made into the vessel, a little more than will cover the raisins, and cover it up with a coarse cloth, and let it stand for another fortnight, in which time it will become fine and very pleasant, after which it may be bottled for use, and the longer it is kept it will improve and get better, provided the bottles are well corked. Of Beer Vinegarfor Pickling. To make beer vinegar for pickling, take the middling sort of beer, and when it is well worked and become fine, take grapes of home growth, or raisins with the stalks, and add together the beer, raisins or grapes, same proportion as in the Table, stir the whole well about in a tub, and when the sediment has settled at the bottom, draw off the liquor into another cask, and set it in the sun with the bung out, and a slate over it to keep out the rain, in six weeks it will be very good vinegar, then draw it off into another cask, bung it well up, and put it in the cellar for use. This vinegar will answer exceedingly well for pickling. Weight of Table. Beer Weight of No.Beer of Raisins, Gallons. lb.O oz.1 dr.9| Example.—One gallon of beer requires 1 SPIRIT DEALER’S ounce, 9f drams raisins; and 30 gallons beer requires 3 pounds raisins, &c. Of Gooteberry Vinegar. 1st. To make gooseberry vinegar, take any quantity of gooseberries when they are pretty ripe, mash them all into a vessel, then measure the pulp, and add water and pulp in the same proportions as in the Table, (but the water must be previously boiled and cold,) let the whole stand 24 hours, after which strain the whole through a coarse linen cloth, and add the proportion of sugar in the Table, (brown or raw sugar,) then stir it well together, and put it in a cask or jar covered up, in a warm place for three quarters of a year, at which period it will be fit for use, but if it stands longer after that period it will still improve. This also is a good vinegar for pickling. Note. Currant vinegar may be made in the same way as that of gooseberries, only the currants should be picked from the stalks. Table. Weight of No.Water, of No.Pulp, of Brown Sugar. Gallons. Gal.0 qts.10 pts. gills.2$ lb.1 oz.5 dr.6 105 312 10 11$ 2$ 136 105 1412 2030 106 02 011$ 0 3520 06 106 40 13 1 5340 71 04 6050 2016 02 ' 127 120 ASSISTANT. 87 Example.—Ten gallons water requires 3 gallons, 1 quart, 2§ gills pulp, and 13 pounds, 5 ounces, 12 drains brown sugar. Of Gooseberry Vinegar. 2d. Take old bright yellow English gooseberries when ripe, which are the best, bruise them small, and to every quart of pulp put three quarts of water, stir them well together, and after they have stood 24 hours, strain them through a canvas bag; to every gallon of liquor add one pound of brown sugar, and stir them well together before you barrel your liquor, which may be done immediately after. Of Vinegarfrom Sugar. To make vinegar from sugar, take water and brown or raw sugar, in the same proportion as in the Table, put them mixed into a copper or pot, make it boil, and as it boils continue skimming it till none appears, then draw it off in a tub, and let it stand till milk-warm, then rub on both sides of a piece of toast brown bread, some good ale yeast, (barm) and drop the bread so rubbed among the liquor, covering it with a cloth and letting it remain 24 hours, then take the yeast clean off the top of the liquor, and place the cask or vessel in a warm place, with a tile or slate on the bung-hole to keep out the rain, if is exposed to the sun so much the better. The proper months for making it is March, i April and May, (you will fake notice that the SPIRIT DEALER’S cask be well iron-bound and painted, as it will last much longer in the exposure to the sun,) do not draw it off till July or August; but it may be tapped six weeks before it is drawn off, and a gallon taken out and put in again, which will help it to fine much better. Table. Water Weight of No. of Brown Sugar No.Water of BrownWeight Sugar of Gallons.1 lb.0 15oz. 12dr. Gallons.SO 29lb. oz.8 dr.8 105 49 1413 128 40 39 6 O 20 19 II 0 6050 4959 31 08 Example.—The proportion for 5 gallons water, is 4 pounds, 14 ounces, 12 drams sugar; and for 50 gallons water, 49 pounds, 3 ounces, 8 drams sugar, &c. Of Vinegar from the refuse of Bee Hives. When the honey is extracted from the combs, by pressure or otherwise, take the whole mass, break and separate it, and into each tub or vessel put two-thirds of water and one-third of combs, put them in the sun if sufficiently warm, or in any other warm place, and cover them up with cloths, the fermentation will commence in a i few days, and will continue from eight to ten days, according to the high or low temperature of the situation into which the operation is carried on; during the time the fermentation is going on, stir the whole mass from time to time, and press it dowij^Uh the hands or otherwise. ASSISTANT. 89 so that it may be perfectly soaked. When the operation of fermentation is over, put the resi- duum to drain upon sieves or strainers, but at the bottom of the vessel will be found a yellow liquor which must be thrown away, as it would soon contract a nauseous and disagreeable smell, which might be communicated to the vinegar, and totally spoil it. Then wash the tubs and put into them the water separated from the other gross matter. It then immediately begins to sour, when the tubs must be again covered with cloths, and kept moderately warm, a thin skin is then formed on the surface beneath which the vinegar assumes strength, and in about a month’s time it becomes fine, acid and sharp, when it must be left standing a little longer and then put into the cask, the bunghole of which is left open, and it may be used as any other kind of vinegar. Of Spirit Vinegar. Vinegar may be made from spirits by mixing 1 gill of rectified malt spirit with 18 gills of water, and exposing it to a heat of betwixt 70 and 80 degrees, Fahrenheit’s thermometer, (or a little below blood heat) for about two months, at , the end of which the acetous process will be effected, and the liquor turned into vinegar. Of Tarragon Vinegar. Tarragon vinegar is manufactued by infusing one pound of the leaves of that vegetable, ( which has been gathered a short time before it flowers) 90 SPIRIT DEALER’S into one gallon of the best vinegar for the space of 14< or 15 days, when it should be strained through a flannel bag, 1 dram of isinglass dissolved in cyder must then be added, and the whole carefully mixed and decanted into bottles for a month or six weeks. This liquor will acquire a most exquisite flavour, it will also become remarkably fine and colourless. Note.—This vegetable is named from Tarra- gona in Spain, where it abounds, it is also called Dragon wort.

Of Balsamic Vinegar. Acetic acid or concentrated vinegar, may be mixed with aromatics, in a sufficient quantity for a small smelling bottle at no great expense, but it is the acetic acid that is useful, and not the aromatics, which are only added for the pleasure of the perfume. Acetous acid or common vinegar, with or without aromatics, has not the same quality as acetic acid.

Of Primrose Vinegar. To every 5 pints of water add 1 pound of brown sugar, let the mixture boil 10 minutes, and take off the scum, pour it upon a pint and a half of primroses; when it is lukewarm, put in a little fresh yeast, (barm) and let it work in a warm place all night, then put it in a barrel, and when done working, close the barrel, still keep- ASSISTANT. 91 ing it in a warm place till it be fit for use, which will be in a short time. Note. By increasing the ingredients any quantity can be made. Of Milk Vinegar. Milk also affords vinegar by fermentation, but there is not ardent spirit enough in milk to favour the operation, it therefore requires either the addition of a small portion of spirit or a considerable heat, such as that of a warm oven for about three days, when it will be converted into vinegar. Of Pure Vinegar. Vinegar prepared in the common way is not pure vinegar, as it contains likewise mucilage, tartar, colouring matter, &c. But Sheele discovered, that if it be made to boil for a few mo- ments, it may be kept afterwards a long time without any alteration. When distilled in a temperature not exceeding that of boiling water, till about two-thirds of it is passed over, all these impurities are left behind, and the product commonly known by the name of distilled vinegar, is pure acetous acid, (or pure vinegar.) If care is not taken to distil it gently, or too quick drawn off, it acquires an empyreuma, or a peculiar smell which is very disagreeable. Of Strengthening or Concentrating Vinegar. Distilled vinegar may be concentrated or strengthened by freezing. The congelation takes place at a temperature a little below 28 degrees, 92 SPIRIT DEALER’S more or less according to its strength, and the congealed part is merely ice, and when the ice is taken off, it leaves the concentrated part, or an acid which is much stronger. If it be exposed to a very intense cold, it shoots into crystals; when the fluid part is withdrawn, the crystals li- quify, when the temperature rises, and the liquid is limpid, pure and transparent as water, extremely strong, and has a pungent acetous odour. This is the pure acid of the vinegar, any extraneous matter remaining in the uncongelated liquid. Other methods have been employed to concen- trate and strengthen vinegar, and obtain it in its pure state, but the above and the following may suffice. Suffer your vinegar to be repeatedly frozen, and separate the upper cake of ice or water from it, &c. Of the Strength of Vinegar. The strength of each sort jof vinegar may be ascertained in the following manner, viz. To one dram of vinegar let there be added drop by drop a clear solution of equal parts of salt of tartar and water, till at once a clearness, a precipitation or falling to the bottom appears. Every 5 drops of the alkaline solution added to the vinegar till the solution takes place, is reckoned as one degree ; for example, if any determinate quantity of vinegar requires 25 drops to have the effect, j the strength is understood to be five degrees which is about the strength of good distilled vine- ASSISTANT. 93 Note.—Vinegar is said to possess active powers, and is a great antiseptic, and corrector of putres- cence and mortification, such as in burns and scalds, where mortification may be apt to take place. Of Verjuice. Verjuice is an acid liquor prepared from grapes or apples, that are unfit to be converted into wine or cyder, or from apples that are unripe. It has its name from a large sort of grape called Vergus or Bourdelas, which is said never to grow perfectly ripe, or rather when its utmost maturity is too austere and sour to be used in wine, whence it is continually turned into verjuice. In France all unripe grapes are denominated verjuice. There is a tolerable verjuice made from crab apples. Verjuice is principally used in sauce and ragouts, although it sometimes forms an astringent in medical preparations. Ver- juice pays the same duty as cyder, perry, &c. THE HOTEL, INNKEEPER, VINTNER, AND wmm ASSISTANT.

Of Sweets, British or Home Made Wines. By sweet, is understood any vegetable juice, whether obtained by means of sugar, raisins, or other foreign or domestic fruit which are added to wines, with a design to improve them. It is plain from the making of artificial must or stum by means of fine sugar with a small addition of tartar, that the art of sweet-making, receives a high degree of improvement, by the using of pure sugar as a general wholesome sweet, instead of those infinite mixtures of honey, raisins, syrups, treacle, stum, cyder, perry, &c. wherewith the sweet-makers supply the wine coopers, to lengthen out, or amend their wines; for pure sugar being added to any poor wine, will ter- ASSISTANT. 95 ment therewith, and improve it, and bring it to a proper degree of strength and vinosity. In the first part of the work I have given a short sketch and outline of the making and management of foreign wines, in those more favoured climates, where the grape is the sole fruit in use for that purpose. It certainly will be a matter of the utmost importance, to give a full detail of the methods that are best and most approved in the making of home wines, as some home wines are little inferior to foreign wines, if the proportions of the composition are properly taken, and the fermentation and fining managed with judicious- ness and care ; and I hope that nothing will be neglected that will prove a material want in reducing the whole process to an easy practice, by laying it down in such a way, that none may mistake who have hitherto been led and guided by positive and dogmatical rules, without knowing any thing of the nature of the process. It will appear evident, that in the complicated process of fermentation, and the other necessary precautions to be used in the making of home wines, that some rules be laid down as a foundation to the operator to go upon in all his pro- ceedings; and the test whereby he must be guided, and have recourse to in the examining, or properly proportioning the ingredients of which the wines are composed. But notwithstanding of these rules, there must be an address displayed by the artist, in turning these general principles to his changing process, which will 96 SPIRIT DEALER’S give him a certain pre-eminence over those who are governed by dogmatical and invariable rules; for though rules may appear fixed, they cannot be generally applied; because, under the changeable circumstances in which the applica- tions are made, they must frequently be rendered abortive, and sometimes even injurious. The constituent parts of most fruits are malic acid, either in a state of purity or mixed; the proportions of vegetable mucilage or extractive matter, such as tartar, sugar, water, the sweet principle, tannin, and the principle of flavour vary very much in different fruits, and it sometimes happens that one or more of them is entirely absent; for instance, in the white currant the colouring substance is deficient, whilst it abounds with profusion in the elderberry and red grape. In most of our fruits the sugar is much less abundant than the sweet principle, which is the general cause of the sweetness of the greater part of them. The vegetable mucilage is the only principle whose presence is invariable, and this principle is one of the most essential in the making of vinous liquors. The main diversities of character in the products of the various fruits, is owing to the varying the proportions of the several ingredients which they contain. But, although difference of management may produce different effects, no contrivance can give the gooseberry the constituent elements of the grape, nor can any mode of procedure extract the flavour of Malmsey wine from the juice of gooseberries; although many who have not been accustomed to the flavour ASSISTANT. 97 of the foreign wine, have been deceived by that mode, from our humble fruit, when rightly managed. Among the principles enumerated as the constituent and essential parts in the conversion of fruits into wine; such as tartar, water, sugar, the sweet principle, the vegetable extract, or mucilage, colour and flavour may be considered as by chance; and the principles which yield them, are in noways essential in the process of wine making. Tartar seems to be essential in the formation of vinous liquors, and an addition of it where it is awanting, does not only ameliorate the produce, but even increases the quantity of alcohol, which a given proportion of sugar, and the vegetable extract, is capable of producing. From the peculiarity of the grape, containing a large portion of tartar, has been introduced the mixing of tartar along with those varieties which sweet-makers intend for the basis of their wines, which practice has been attended with the best results. If the wine that is to be made or amended is tart of itself, no tartar should be added along with the sugar, but if it be too sweet or luscious, then the addition of tartar is necessary. Malic acid has been found to be injurious to the fabrication of wine, and those wines in which it abounds are generally of a bad quality; but it is not ascertained whether it be originally in the fruit, or generated during the process of fermentation. Since the existence of malic acid is found to be injurious to wine, it ought to be 98 SPIRIT DEALER’S attended to as a matter of importance, as our native fruits seem to possess an excess of it. This is perhaps one of the defects in our home wines, which is worst to amend ; but to render this defect more obvious, it may be remarked, that the essential distinction between cyder and wine, consists in the quantity of this malic acid, which enters into the composition of the former. In the manufacture of Sherry, lime is added to the grapes before the process of fermentation, which probably acts powerfully in neutralizing this acid as well as that of tartar, a hint may be borrowed from this practice toward the amelioration of our home wines, at least it may be a practice worthy of a careful trial; it is only from the results of similar experiments, that the manufacture of home wines may be placed upon a sound and rational basis. In the process of wine making, sugar may be considered as the basis and most essential ingredient on which the strength and vinosity of the wine depends; and those fruits which contain the greatest portion of sugar, furnish the strongest wine. The principal defects in our domestic fruits is the small portion of sugar which they contain; but at the same time, it is a defect which is most easily remedied; but even in this part of the process some difficulty occurs, which leads to the imperfect fermentation of wine, and the consequent sweetness by which they are too often characterized. The saccharine matter has been considered as existing in two distinct stages in vegetables, that of pure sugar, and that of the sweet principle; the sweet principle ASSISTANT. is characterized by its want of tendency to crystallize, and by the facility with which it, on the addition of water, runs into fermentation; sugar on the contrary crystallizes, and has no tendency to ferment, except in as far as it contains a portion of the sweet principle. If a solution of pure sugar, in water, be allowed to re- pose, it will not ferment, but crystallizes; nor does any part of the water undergo this process. The juice of the sugar cane readily allows of the separation of the sugar from the sweet principle, by which it has almost exclusively become the subject of this manufacture; the residuary matter, known by the name of molasses, is by the French chemists termed the sweet principle, and is a peculiar compound of sugar with vegetable extractive matter, similar to that which exists in the generality of sweet fruits. I do not agree with some chemists, who say, that in some fruits, and some varieties of the grape, sugar predomi- nates, and in others the sweet principle; but that the sugar of the fruit is in some cases combined with more, and in others with less of the vegetable extract. If the sugar predominate, the wine will be sweet, unless means are used to complete the fermentation of the sugar, and convert the whole into wine; as it is well known it will not ferment if the sugar have the ascendenc)\ Scarcely any colour is contained in our fruits, if we exempt the black cherry and the elderberry, and as colouring may be considered as an ornament, and may be easily procured by colouring ingredients, its want needs not be regret- 100 SPIRIT DEALER’S ted, as the essential parts of wine-making do not depend on it. The tannin principle, which is the principal cause of the astringency, is contained in the husk and stem of some grapes and fruits which communicate, at the pleasure of the operator, that roughness known in Port wines. The damson and the sloe possess it in an eminent degree; it can also be readily communicated by Catechu, if a roughness similar to Port is wanted to our home wines. In the manufacture of many wines, recourse is had to flavouring ingredients, such as orris-root, grape-flowers, almonds, mignionette, a process which is imitated in this country in the making of elder and cowslip wines; if the flavour of fruits could be transmitted with certainty to the wines, similar results might be expected from the strawberry and raspberry; but the effect of fermentation is generally such as to destroy this delicate principle, and if the proportion of water be too small in the liquor subjected to fermentation, that process is with difficulty either established or maintained; this is a matter of constant occurrence in those countries where the juice of the grape is boiled to a certain consistence, or when the fruit before pressing is allowed to undergo a partial dissication; from this practice result sweet and half fermented wines, although some acquire an additional strength and richness from a moderate use of this practice. But this process can be of no use in the manufacture of home wines, nor do the nature of our fruits admit of it; an excess of sugar may produce a similar effect, ASSISTANT. 101 but generally none of the recipes now in use, come near to that excess. The juice of home fruits, it is well known, are deficient in saccharine matter, but experience has shewn us how to remedy this by a mixture of common sugar, on which the whole art depends. But it has not generally entered into the views of domestic wine-makers, to supply this other important defect, that is, the addition of tartar, although the means are equally easy. The sweet-makers are indeed acquainted with it, although, from the defective nature of their processes in general, it has not produced in either hands the effects which might have been expected. This principal error consists in the immoderate use of yeast and molasses, without considering the addition of tartar to the juices of our home fruits, as a valuable improvement in the art of making domestic wines. In the use of tartar, no very accurate limits seems necessary, but the operator must be guided by experience. A proper degree of temperature is one of the circumstances which has the greatest share in influencing the act of fermentation in the making of home wines, and that of 54° Fahrenheit’s thermometer may be considered favourable, although some latitude may be allowed, above or below, according to the temperature of the atmosphere; but it will be noticed that if the temperature be too high or too low, the fermentative process does not go on at all, but the process may be regulated by cooling the fluid to check its too rapid progress, or by warming it when it proceeds in too languid a manner. By this we may under- h 3 ' . 102 SPIRIT DEALER’S stand a common occurrence which takes place in wine making, that is a renewal of the fermentation in the spring, after it has been suspended by the cold of winter. Thus, if we are desirous of imitating Champaigne wine, it is necessary to watch for the period when the fermentation is renewed by the arrival of spring, and bottle it in this stage to insure a brisk wine, which if bottled in the cold in winter, or after the second fermentation has been exhausted by the heats of summer, would be dead and insipid. This renewal of fermentation is called fretting, and is favourable for the addition of flavouring matters, as at this time they give out their flavour and combine with the wine, and it is also at this time that spirits should be added to the wine if it is allowable, as at this period only alcohol can safely be added to it without destroy- ing but strengthening its vinosity, as it enters in- to a chemical combination with the wine. The generating of heat during fermentation is sometimes to such a degree in large factories as to require tempering, but in a small scale it seldom occurs, and it is during this process that the colouring matter of the fruit is extracted, by fermenting the skins of the fruit along with the juice or liquor. The management of the fermentation when it has commenced must also be regulated by the views of the artist, according to the wine he wishes to obtain. If sweet, the proportion of the water as well as that of the leaven to the sugar, must be reduced in compounding the must, and the management of the fermentation will then be ASSISTANT. 103 such as to discharge the yeast as fast as generated, by keeping the cask full to the bunghole, and by a careful repetition of decanting and clarifying. The management of the temperature is easily deduced from the general theory; when the fermentation languishes from defect of heat, it is necessary to introduce a stove into the apart- ment where the process is carried on, or by heating a portion of the liquor, and mixing it with the mass, the temperature may be ele- vated to the most favourable point. Changes which may retard the process, arising from the variations of outward temperature, may be prevented by a covering of straw or blankets. These things, although they may appear trifling, are very important, as they are sufficient to cause the whole difference betwixt good and bad wine. If it is intended to make what is called a dry wine, such as that made in this country from sugar and raisins, the same practice must be followed as in the countries where wine is made from the grape for distillation. In this case, the wine is suffered to remain in the vat for three, four, five, or even six days, until it cease to have a sweet taste, and the whole of the sugar is converted into spirit. If it is intended to make a strong and sweet wine, the fermentation must be discouraged, by speedily removing it from the vat to the cask. If it is desired to make a light and flavoured wine, like that of Burgundy, the process should be the same as that followed in that country where the must is allowed to remain but a few hours in the vat, the time varying ac- 104 SPIRIT DEALER’S cording to the quality of the viust, the temperature and other circumstances attending it; but it will be noticed, that when flavour or perfume is wanted or expected from the wine, the period is always shortened; this precaution however, makers of domestic wines may dispense with, as there is little flavour to be expected from fruits of his own growth. If it is intended to make wine brisk, the juice must remain in the vat only a few hours, and when small quantities are to be made, it is most prudent to conduct the whole process in the cask from the very commencement. There is also an absolute necessity for cleanliness in the use, and care in the selection of the casks, for very promising results are often de- feated by this sort of negligence; also, in removing the wine from the vat to the cask, it is necessary to get rid of all the superfluities, sediments and scum it may contain; this may be termed the first stage of decanting, an operation, the careful conducting of which is of great importance in this manufacture. The way to do this is, to top the vat a little above the lee, and stop the flow of the liquor before the scum has descended too low, this operation is in general easily effected. In some cases, straining through a filtering bag may be necessary, but even in that case, the scum should be carefully removed, as from exposure it is apt to acquire a musty taste, or acid property, easily communicated to the liquor. It is also known that the acetous process cannot take place while the sugar remains un- ASSISTANT. 105 changed in the fluid, so that our conduct can be regulated in the use of artificial means for check- ing the fermentation above alluded to, or the acetous fermentation; and any anxiety on this head is unnecessary as long as the wine continues sweet; also we can see from the same con- sideration, how the addition of sugar to wine where durability is suspected, may prevent the acetous process from taking place, but if the process be too far advanced it will no doubt cause a speedier conversion into vinegar. The artificial means used to check fermentation are many, where a natural termination would not occur, but the most simple seems to be the filling the empty cask with vapour of sulphur, from burning matches placed in the bunghole, also the sulphate of potash is a convenient substitute in this operation, as a dram or two is sufficient in general for a large cask of liquor. It is also obvious that this process must be followed by that of racking and fining, the substances used for this are most commonly isinglass or the whites of eggs, the mode of applying which will be given afterwards, also sand, gypsum, starch, rice, milk, blood, and the shavings of beechwood, have been found to answer the same purpose. At times flatness may arise in wines from age, or the complete annihilation of the fermenting process, but the most common cause is the admixture of brandy spirit to excess, which is not only injurious to the liquor but the constitution, as it introduces an additional quantity of ardent spirits into a beverage already perhaps 106 SPIRIT DEALER’S too strong. A notion is prevalent among domestic wine-makers, if they do not mix their wines with spirits or alcohol, that they are deficient in durability, by which means they run into the extreme, and by a greater proportion of the admixture than is necessary, the durability of their wines is shortened, and the brisk sprightly taste destroyed, they are rendered vapid and flat, while at the same time their price is increased. But if wine-makers are to have recourse to the practice of mixing of spirits, it may be proper to point out the least injurious manner in which it may be effected; 1. It may be added to the liquor before fermentation;—a method followed in the manufacture of Sherry. 2. It may also be added afterwards at the different renewals of the fermentation, which occurs frequently in the cask; this practice is followed by wine-coopers, and is called fretting in. When for any purpose, it is found necessary to mix two kinds of wine together, the time rrqist be selected when a slight fermentation is perceptible, or this process may be renewed by rolling the cask, or heating, when a perfect union of the wines mixed at this period takes place, by means of the slight fermentation induced in the cask. It is under these circumstances that brandy spirit may be added when it nearlyenters resemblinginto a combination that natural with union the in wine,which morealco- hol exists in it, while, at the same time it produces less injury either to the flavour of the liquor or the health of the consumer. I shall now proceed to give a view of the me- ASSISTANT. 107 thods followed in making home-wines, in common use, as far as their difference is worthy of notice, confining myself to those domestic wines which either in themselves are good, or capable under proper management, of being made so. The fruits generally in use in the making of wines, are the quince, cherry, strawberry, sloe, elderberry, damson, mulberry, black or brambleberry, raspberry, orange, lemon, gooseberry, and the three varieties of the currant. Dried raisins, although not ranked among our fruits, are extensively used, and should also be noticed Sugar is allowed in all cases to be an adven- titious ingredient, capable of being proportioned with the greatest nicety, and completely in our power, and of a moderate price. It is unnecessary to consider that ingredient in fruits, as the one which is to guide our choice; it is the due proportioning of the acid and leaven, (the fermenting principle) that we are to look chiefly for the causes which are to determine the selection. If a good flavour can be obtained from any fruit of our own growth, the object of price is a con- sideration which will naturally be added to those more important ones. The quince appears to have come in use in the making of wine, but its similarity to the apple and pear is enough to convince us that its produce will be a species of cyder, only a small difference in the astringency and flavour, which distinguish it from those fruits; its rarity and price is an objection to its general use. Wine may be made from several varieties of the cherry, but care should be taken against 108 SPIRIT DEALER'S pressing the kernels in any quantity among the liquor, for however agreeable a slight flavour of bitter may be, a taste amounting to bitterness is disagreeable and injurious to the wine. The strawberry produces wines of an agreeable quality both dry and sweet, if proper care is taken, as was formerly hinted, with respect to keeping out the flavouring matter, till the process is nearly over, else during the process, it would be almost completely dissipated. The same remark will apply to the raspberry, only, that as very little is gained by the use of these fruits which are generally of a high price, therefore if a simple infusion of this fruit be put in any flavourless currant wine, it will with greater certainty and cheapness produce the desired taste. The brambleberry and mulberry have not such strong flavours, but the cheapness of the former is a recommendation, and there is no doubt but they both contain the substance essential for this purpose. They also afford what many fruits do not in the same degree, viz. the colouring principle, (provided the fermentation be allowed to proceed with the skins until the colouring matter is extracted,) and isaccompani- ed with a certain degree of astringency, which at a certain period both these fruits are possessed of. The sloe and damson are nearly of the same qualities, from both are produced a bitterish astringent liquor capable of being converted into rough wine of a good character, care being taken to proportion the quantity of fruit to the sugar, or to meliorate that liquor by the ad- ASSISTANT. 109 dition of other fruits of a less astringent quality. The elderberry is a fruit whose cheapness and abundance in some places, have long recommended it to notice, and from which with proper attention excellent red wine can be made. It has an ad- mirable colour, and communicates to the wine a tint as rich as can be desired, it appears to be deficient in acid, but the defect should be supplied by the addition of tartar; it also requires a considerable quantity of sugar as the fundamen- tal ingredient. If it has no good flavour, it is at least free of any bad one, a virtue which does not appertain to many of home fruits used in the \ making of wine. In properly apportioning the ingredients, sugar and tartar, the following rules may be found useful. The proportion of tartar has been made to vary from 1 to 4, and sometimes 6 per cent.; the cause of this laxity will appear, when it is considered that the greater part of this tartar is deposited in the lees, but in general from 2 to 4 per cent, will be found sufficient, or 1 to 16§, or 1 pound of tartar to 16§ pounds of sugar, or it may be varied a little according to the sweetness of the fruit, the sweetest requiring the largest portion of tartar, and the reverse ; although cream of tartar may answer the end, the crude salt of ' tartar is to be preferred, because it contains a I portion of yeast conducive to the more perfect fermentation of the artificial must. In proportioning the sugar to the liquor, the 1 following rule may be taken as a guide. Two pounds of sugar added to one gallon of the com- 110 SPIRIT DEALER’S pound mixture, containing all the other ingre- i clients requisite for a perfect fermentation, pro- ! duce a liquor equal in strength to the highest class of Bourdeaux white wines; three pounds of sugar added to the gallon, produces wine i equal in strength, to that known by the name of/ white Hermitage; and four may be added if fermented, till dry, to produce a wine resembling i the stronger Sicilian wines. But where a fruit contains sugar, it is obvious that the quantity of sugar must be diminished, according to the proportion that the natural juice is supposed to contain. If we attend to the common practice of making wine from grapes, we shall see that no water : is used, but that the whole fluid is composed of 1 the juice' of the ifuit itself. If we now attend j to the common practice, we shall find that the juice of the fruit forms nearly one-fourth part of I the whole liquor, and often less, the proportion of the fruit being seldom more than two pounds to eight pounds of water, and three or four pounds i of sugar, and this proportion is generally fixed i with no regard to the ripeness of the fruit, which i is a circumstance of considerable importance; ; the consequences of thus sparing the use of fruit l| is highly injurious. To put this case in a: r stronger light, let this proportion of juice be J s further diminished, and the must will consist of i little else'than sugar and water, a compound in- i capable of forming wine. But let it be increased, and a vigorous and perfect fermentation, t with a produce perfectly vinous will be the re- jt suit. ASSISTANT. Ill If green fruit is used in which little or nothing exists but acid and extract, of which acid in this case is in a much greater proportion, bulk for bulk, than in ripe fruits, the acid will be too predominant; where the juice of the fruit is used in an undue quantity, it will accordingly be found that a much more perfect wine may be produced by diminishing the water or increasing the proportion of fruit. The Orange and Lemon though, not native fruits, are familiar to us, and differ very little in their chemical composition, therefore they may be considered as one; they are however deficient in extractive matter, and for this reason, are incapable of being converted into wine, even with the aid of sugar, unless yeast be added; and as it is impossible to add the yeast of beer in sufficient quantity for the perfect fermentation of the fluid, without spoiling the flavour, these wines are generally imperfect and sweet, and the infusion of the peel gives it a taste, which by no means agrees with the taste of wine; it would therefore be an improvement in the making of these wines, if the peels were kept out, ( and if any vegetable matter could be added, ca- : pable of inducing the complete fermentation with- ■ out communicating a bad flavour, gum may be applied with some success, and it is not unlikely I that something may be found in wheat, either in " the i-our or gluten. The Gooseberry is one of the fruits most f commonly used in this country in the making of [ wines, and is well known as a particular ingre- ■ dient in brisk wines, which are made to resem- 112 SPIRIT DEALER’S ble, at least in appearance, Champaign wine, for this purpose it must be used in its unripe state. The fault however of this wine, if it be considered as an imitation of Champaign is a bad flavour, which is almost invariably communicated to it by the fruit, and that in proportion to its ripeness. To avoid this evil so generally injurious to the brisk gooseberry wine, the fruit should always be taken in its unripe state, as at this period the flavouring substance has not been developed; also, to prevent this, the expressed juice alone should be used, and the skins excluded from the fermentation, as being the part in which the bad flavour resides; with these precautions, the bad flavour may generally be prevented: it is true that the pulp is then without flavour, or nearly so, but this is a small fault in domestic wines, whose leading defect is almost invariably a disagreeable taste. Various proportions of fruit and sugar are used by different persons, but the most common is three pounds of sugar, and four pounds of fruit, to eight pounds of water—here the proportion of fruit is too small compared to that of the sugar, and the fermentation is consequently, in general, so imperfect, as to make the wine disagreeably sweet. If therefore this wine is to be amended in the composition, it is either by reducing the sugar, which will make it weaker, or by increasing the fruit; this wine is as durable as Cham- paign wines of a corresponding quality, provided equal care be taken in the bottling, the cellaring and other management, in which, often our makers of domestic wines are too apt to fail. ASSISTANT. 113 thinking that when they have mixed a portion of sugar, water and fruit together, that their labour is finished, and that the rest may be trusted to cbance; but they should consider on the contrary that it has just commenced. The three varieties of the Currant are perhaps better known than the Gooseberry, and more in use as ingredients in the making of wine; and as the produce of each maybe attended with some difference, it may be proper to notice them separately. Both from the red and white Currant, wines are made, whose principal difference is in the colour, and but very slightly in the flavour, though the flavour of neither is very particular; the principal defect of these wines is the sparing proportion in which the fruit is used, which contain a sufficient quantity of natural acid as well as extractive matter, to ensure a perfect fermentation if properly managed. By increasing the quantity of fruit, and avoiding the use of the husks, the flavour is materially improved. The natural tendency of this fruit is to form a wine analogous to the lighter white wines of the grape, and it is rational to follow what is pointed out by the nature of the fruit, and I have no doubt but the use of tartar would be an advantage and improvement. A considerable improvement may be made in the formation of those wines whose flavour is bad, or no flavour at all, by boiling the fruit previous to fermentation, a practice which may be followed in the making of Currant wines with success; from this treatment many tasteless i 3 114 SPIRIT DEALER’S fruits acquire a flavour, and many bad flavours are converted into agreeable ones; this is perhaps most powerfully exemplified in the Black Currant, which, by this process, acquires an a- greeable flavour ; the practice of boiling may be advantageous in many cases, and it is a subject worthy of investigation. The dried raisins, although it is not a domestic fruit, like the orange and lemon, is much used in the manufacture of domestic wines. The success in the attempts that have been made to make Raisin wine, have by no means answered the expectations of the manufacturer; although still carried on to a very great extent by the sweet makers, it is not apparent to what cause the failure is owing. But an examination of the process, in common use, may perhaps suggest some hints conducive to a more rational and improved mode of proceeding. In the manufacture of this wine on the large scale, whether for the purpose of open sale as a sweet, or for the purpose of fraudulently imitating and adulterating foreign wines, a quantity of raisins varying from two to seven pounds to each gallon of water is used, together with a proportion of common clayed sugar, or molasses, from half a pound to three or four pounds; also in many cases from four to six pounds of crude tartar is added; in this wine, yeast is not in general used to assist in the fermentation, nor should it be used. As little more light can be thrown on the subject, it is recommended^ a nice attention to all the modes of fermentation and management which have already been laid down, and if this fails to ASSISTANT. 115 produce therdesired effect of purity in the wine, the manufacture of it may be considered as incapable of much farther improvement. The only reason why so many ingredients are mixed together in the making of home made wines, is, that the greater part of those who make home wines have orchards and gardens of their own, and for this reason, may be led to use a part of each kind of fruit suited for wine, by which means it may come to be a little cheaper, and at the same time consume the fruit, which perhaps they could not get disposed of otherwise; but the difference is not so great as might be imagined by these mixtures. How- ever, as there is a small difference, and to suit every person, who may be in the way of making winesfrom home fruits, I have given asketch of the general principles and practices used in the manufacture of wine from fruits of domestic growth, and also recipes and instructions are given, how to make and manage all the various sorts of wines madefrom the various kinds of fruits, and that wine can be chosen, which is thought best and cheapest. It may be here necessary to give a table of ; English dry measure, with the comparison of it and the English avoirdupoise weight, as there i are dry ingredients used in some of the compositions of which home wines are made. English Dry Measure. 33 6jj solid Inches 2 Pintst 4 Quarts 2 Gallons 4 Pecks 8 Bushels t_ 1 Quarter, &c.* 116 SPIRIT DEALER’S English Dry Measure and Avairdupoise Weight compared. Dry Measure. lb.Avoirdupoise oz. dr. Weight, 1 Pint is equal to 1 3 7 .1343 1 Quart 2 6 14 .2687 1 Gallon 9 11 9 .075 1 Peck 19 7 2 .15 l Bushel 38 14 4 .30 I Bushel 77 12 8 .60 1 Quarter 622 4 4 .80 By the above tables it will be easy either to take the dry ingredients by the weight or measure. Imitation of Port Wine. Take good Port wine, cyder, French brandy, the same proportions as in the following table, put the different ingredients into a clean cask well fumigated and matched, (see match-making,) the juice of elderberries and sloes are added, for the pupose of giving it that degree of roughness which foreign Port wine has, and which, it is absolutely necessary home wine should have to make the imitation nearly correct. Add a little cochineal as colouring; but observe only to add the quantity of cochineal, elderberry and sloe juice, according to the degree of roughness or colour wanted. If the wine is wanted a little cheaper, in lieu of cyder, use turnip juice, or raisin cyder; and instead of French brandy use silent whisky, (or whisky that has no particular flavour.) This will be much cheaper, and atfjiihe same time a very good and pleasant wine. ASSISTANT. 117 Example Suppose the proportions of the ingredients for 8 gallons were wanted, look in the left hand column for No. 8, and on the same line in the other columns, you will find the proportions of the ingredients marked on the head of the columns, to be 1 gallon, 1 quart, Port wine; 5 gallons cyder; 1 gallon, 3 quarts French brandy; on the head of the columns Gal. stands for gallons; Qt. for quarts; Pts. for pints; Gil. for gills, &c. After all the ingredients are put into the cask, bung it up, and when fine, (which will be in a short time,) bottle it off. This wine will keep a considerable time, and will still be growing better; when bottling, take proper care and not shake the cask to raise the sediments. This wine gets the name of imitation Port wine, because it nearly imitates that massy red wine of that name imported from Portugal, named after the port from whence it is shipped. Note—Cochineal was first supposed to be a grain, which name it still retains by way of eminence among dyers, but naturalists soon discovered that it was an insect. It is brought to us from Mexico, where the insect lives upon different species of the Opunlia. Cochineal will keep a long time in a dry place. Hellot says, that he tried some 130 years old, and found it to give forth its colouring matter, and have the same effect as new. The decoction of cochineal is of a crimson colour inclining to violet. A small quantity of sulphuric acid makes the liquor assume a red colour inclining to yellow. Sloes are well known to almost every one, and they have nearly the same astringent quality and 118 SPIRIT DEALER’S sour taste as damsons. Damsons are better known by the name of prunes, (plumbs,) both these have nearly the same astringent quality and sour taste as sloes. Table. Port Wine. Cyder. French Brandy. No. Gal. qt. pts. gil. Gal. qt. pts. Gal. qt. pts. gil. 21 0 010 11 2 01 21 01 0 0112 13 43 0 2115 1 0 21 32 01 0 32 1110 56 0 3 012 1 3 03 01 10110 0 32 87 10110 0 03 45 01 01 1312 0 01 109 111112 0 2 65 21 01 213 0 1213 1211 1213 1310 T6 32 01 2 2111 10 1314 2 0 01 21 8 03 01 32 03 0 32 15 2 10 3 109 0J 01 5 10 1 1716 2 2 01 01 10 2 1 3 2 013 0 1819 22302 3 1 3 111110 3 1 435 0 1112 2120 53 010 1 01 1213 02 O1 4 2110 0 5 2223 3 21 01 52 1413 31 01 54 03 0 21 24 3 5 0 0 15 0 0 5 11310 0 2526 34 03 01 21 1516 21 01 5 2 12 2827 4 01 1 05 1617 32 01 65 30 1011 3029 4 2 01 21 18 03 01 6 210 0 52 40 6 1 0 0 25 O 0 108 3 01 02 5060 79 31 01 20 5157 12 00 15 0 1 O ASSISTANT. 119 Imitation of Claret Wine. To imitate foreign Claret wine take 3 gallons of water, 1 gallon of cyder, and 4< pounds of Malaga raisins, bruised; put them all together, and let them stand close covered in a warm place for 14 days, stirring it well every other day, after which, strain out the liquor into a clean cask, and put to it 1 pint of barberries, 2 gills of the juice of raspberries, and 2 gills of the juice of black cherries; work the mixture up with a little mustard seed, and cover it with a piece of dough three or four days by the fire- side; then let it stand a week, when it may be bottled off; after a short time it will become fine and ripe, and will drink like common Cla- ret; any quantity may be made by increasing or decreasing the ingredients in equal proportion. Note The barberry or pepperidge bush is a native of England. The fruit or berries which are gratefully acid or sour, and moderately astringent, are of some use for medical purposes; the filaments of this shrub possess a remarkable degree of irritability, for on being touched near the base with the point of a pin, a sudden con- traction is produced, which may be repeated several times. After the wine is made and strained off from the raisins, the raisins will do for making vinegar, (see Vinegar making.) Imitation of Mountain Wine. To imitate Mountain wine, take Malaga 120 SPIRIT DEALER’S raisins, and pick out all the largest stalks, then chop and mash them very small, and add 2£ pounds of the raisins so mashed, to £ gallon of cold spring water, let the mixture remain 20 days in a moderately temperate situation; then squeeze out the liquor, and put it into a proper cask for the quantity, which has been previously fumigated with a match, let it remain with the bunghole open until the hissing noise or fermentation has ceased; then bung it up, and when fine, bottle it off for use: increase or diminish the ingredients according to the quantity wanted. jVofe.—If yeast is used in fermenting, if dry before it be put in, it should be moistened with a little cold water. Malaga raisins are so named from a province in Spain where they grow very plentifully. Imitation of Sack Wine. To make good Sack wine, add to every gallon of water, four sprigs of rue, and also to every gallon, a handful of fennel roots; boil the whole half an hour, then strain it out, and add to every gallon of this liquor, three pounds of honey; then boil it two hours, skimming it well, and when it is cold, pour it off, and bung it up into a clean cask; keep it twelve months in the cask, when it may be bottled off; this will make an excellent imitation of Sack wine. Note.—The common rue so well known in the gardens, has a strong and grateful smell, and a bitter, hot, penetrating taste; the leaves are so ASSISTANT. 121 acrid, that by much handling, they have been known to irritate and inflame the skin, and the plant in its natural state, is said to possess these sensible qualities still more powerfully. The seeds of common fennel have an aromatic smell, and a warm sweetish taste, and contain a large portion of essential oil, the root has a sweet taste, but very little aromatic warmth. Sweet fennel is cultivated in France and Italy. Honey is a well known substance, collected by the bee from the nectary of flowers, very much resembling sugar; in its elementary principles, it is of a white yellowish colour, soft con- , sistence, and a sweet aromatic smell: it is also ; much used in medicine, &c. Of Sage Wine. 1st. Take spring water, Malaga raisins and green sage, same proportions as in the Table, pick the 1 raisins and rub them, cut them and the sage * small, and put them in a tub, boil the water for | eighteen minutes, and let it cool down to milk > warm, then pour it upon the sage and raisins, let it stand six days, stirring it once every eight ; hours during that time, then strain off the liquor ; from the pulp, and put it into a clean cask, and when it has stood half a year, draw it clear off j into another cask, and in a short time, when it , is fine, bottle it off for use, which may be in t.wo ' months; this wine will improve much- in keep- i | ing. | Example—Suppose the ingredients for nine gallons of wine is wanted, look in the first column K ! SPIRIT DEALER’S for No. 9, and on the same line in the other columns you will find the quantity of raisins to be 45 pounds; Sage 1 bushel, 2pecks, 3 pints, and the water 9 gallons. Gal. is gallon, Bu. is bushels, Pk. pecks, Pts. pints, &c. Note. Sage has a fragrant strong smell, and, a warm, bitterish, aromatic taste, it has a remarkable property in resisting the putrefaction of animal substances; it is generally much e- steemed among the Chinese; this plant is well known in our common gardens, &c. ASSISTANT. 123 Table. < Raisins. Green Sage. Water. No. Lb. Oz. Dr. Bu. Pk. Gal. Pt. ,Gal. Qt. Pts. 21 105 O0 0 O0 01 013 6 210 0 0 34 2015 0 0 O0 2 01 41 34 0 0 56 3025 O 0O O1 03 0 27 65 0 0 87 3540 O0 0 1 01 1 05 87 0 0 109 4550 O 0 ,11 2 160 3 109 O0 0O 1211 5560 0 O0 21 03 011 4 1211 O O 1314 6570 0 O0 2 0112 17 1314 0 O 1615 8075 0 O0 2 32 0 05 1516 0 O0 1817 8590 0 0O 32 30 013 6 1718 O 60 2019 10095 0O O0 3 101 1 41 2019 0 O0 2122 105110 0 O0 3 2 0 7 21 0 0 23 115 0 0 3 3 01 52 2322 0 O 2524 120125 0O O0 4 O1 01 O3 2425 0 0O 2726 135130 O0 0 4 21 1 61 2726 O0 O 2928 140145 O O0 4 3 01 74 2829 0 O 3040 200150 0 0 56 30 1 02 4030 O0 O 5060 250300 0 0 108 21 0 46 5060 0 0 124- spirit dealer’s Of Sage Wine. 2d, To make this wine, boil three gallons of spring water for a quarter of an hour, let it cool down to milk warm, then put into it 12J pounds Malaga raisins picked clean, rubbed and cut small, together with 1 peck of red sage, cut small also, and a full glass of good ale yeast; stir the whole well together, and let them stand covered in a warm place seven days, stirring the mixture once every day, after which, strain the liquor off into a clean cask, and when it has worked four days into this cask, bung it up, and let it stand seven days longer, then put into it one quart of mountain wine, with a full glass of finings, when fine, bottle it off for use; by increasing or diminishing the ingredients, any quantity can,be made that is wanted; this is a pleasant wine. Of Elder Wine. 1st. To make Elder wine, take five pounds of the best Malaga raisins, and rub them small, for every five pounds of raisins, take one gallon of water, boil it an hour, and let it cool down to milk warm, then put it into an earthen vessel with your raisins, and let them steep 12 days, stirring the mixture twice every day, after which put the liquor through a hair sieve, and have at hand for every gallon of liquor, one pint of the juice of elder berries, squeezed out in the same way as jelly of currants, mix the elder berry juice with the cold liquor, stir it well together, and put it into a clean cask, let it stand in a ASSISTANT. 125 warm place till it has done working, and when you see that the working is over, stop it up close, and bottle it off about the beginning of February. Of Elder Wine. 2d. Another way to make Elder wine, is to take spring water, and let it boil 25 minutes, then measure off as many gallons as is intended to be made, and let it stand till it is cold, and put to every gallon, four pounds of raisins of the sun, well picked, rubbed in a cloth and chopped, but not too small, let the whole stand ten days, stirring the mixture every six hours during that time; for every gallon, take five gills of elder berries, fully ripe, which must be infused in boiling water, at the same time strain out the raisins from the water, and when the elder liquor is cold, mix it with the liquor strained from the raisins, (or the.elder berry juice may be boiled into a syrup) and add for every gallon, one spoonful of good ale yeast; stir the whole well together, tun it up into a cask, and let it stand in a warm place to ferment, after which, put it into the cellar for six months, then bottle it off; but if a small quantity is made, close it up in any convenient vessel. Of Elder Wine. 3d. Take the elder berries when they are fully ripe and dry, pick and bruise them with the hands, and strain them, then set the liquor K 3 126 SPIRIT dealer’s aside into an earthen vessel a whole day to settle, and to every two pints of juice, add three pints of water, and to every gallon of this liquor, put three pounds of sugar, then put the liquor on the fire into a large brass pot or kettle, and when it is boiling, put into it the white of five eggs to clarify it, after which, let it boil an hour, take it off and let it cool down to milk warm, ferment it with good ale yeast, then tun it off, and fill up the cask always as it works out with the same liquor; if the cask is about the eighth of a hogshead, the wine will be fine and fit for the bottle in one month, and in two months moreitwillbefit for drinking; it will much improve it, if you add to every gallon a pint of Mountain wine. Of Elder Wine. Uh. To every gallon of water take one quart of ripe elder berries picked clean from the stalks, boil the elder berries and water for an hour, then strain off the liquor through a sieve, and put it into the kettle or pot again with three pounds of raw sugar to each gallon, let it boil half an hour, then put into a tub for every gallon of liquor, 9 ounces, 10 drams of raisins, and pour the boiling liquor upon them, and when it is milk warm add to it a sufficient quantity of good ale yeast, and let it work four days, then cork it up, and put into the cask for each gallon, one gill of brandy or good whisky, and bottle it off for use about New-year-day if the weather answer. ASSISTANT. 127 Of Elder Wine. 5th. Take the elderberries when fully ripe, pick them, put them into a stone jar and set it in the oven, or in a kettle of boiling water, till the jar is hot through, then take them out and strain them through a coarse cloth, wringing the juice out of the berries which must be put into a clean kettle. To every quart of juice put a pound of fine Lisbon sugar, let it boil, and skim it well, when it is clear and fine, pour it into a jar, when it is cold cover it close, and keep it till you make raisin wine, and to every gallon of which add half a pint of elder syrup. Of Elder Flower Wine. ls£. To each gallon of water put 2^ pounds of good sugar, boil it about half an hour, skimming it all the time, let it cool down to milk warm, and then put in as much good yeast as you think will be sufficient for to work it, and after it has worked, for each two gallons add three gills of elder flowers picked from the stalks, stir the whole every day till the fermentation has ceased, and strain it through a hair sieve, and put it into a clean cask, which in a short time afterwards must be bunged up close, and let it stand about eight weeks, when it may be bottled off. Of Elder Flower Wine. 2<7. Take a large handful of dried elder flowers and five gallons of spring water, boil the water and pour it scalding hot upon the flowers, the next 128 SPIRIT DEALER’S day add to every gallon of water five pounds of the best Malaga raisins, the stalks being previously picked off, but not washed, chop them a little and put them into the water, stirring the water, flowers and raisins well together, and stir them twice or thrice every day for twelve days, then press out the liquor till no more come off, afterwards put it into a clean cask and close it up for three days till it ferments, and in three days more bung it up, and let it stand four months till it is clear and fine, then bottle it off. Note. The tree on which the elderberry grows, or common elder, is known in many parts of Scot- land by the name of the bourtree, and grows generally about country gardens, old dykes, &c. Imitation of Frontigniac Witie. Take water, sugar, raisins, and the flowers of elder, (when they will fall off the tree with a shake,) at the same proportion as in the Table, cut the raisins small and boil them with some of the water for an hour, let the whole standstill cold, then put the elder flowers into the liquor, and the next day put in a gill of lemon juice for every six gallons of liquor, and a gill of good ale yeast to every 12 gallons of liquor, and in two days after put it into a clean cask and bung it up, when it has stood ten weeks, bottle it off for use. Example.—Suppose the ingredients for five gallons is wanted, look into the first column for No. 5, and in the same line in the other columns you will find the quantity of water to be 3 gal- ASSISTANT. 129 Ions, 3 quarts, 1 pint, 1 gill; sugar, 8 pounds 12 ounces; raisins, 3 pounds 12 ounces; and elder flowers, 5 pints. Gal. is gallons, Qt. quarts, Pt. pints, Gil. gills, Lb. pounds, Oz. ounces, Pk. pecks, &c. Water. Sugar. Raisins. Elder Flowers. No. Gal. qt. pts. gil. lb. oz. lb. oz. pk. gal. pt. 210301 2 2 0 2 31 128 01 128 0 0 21 34 32 01 01 03 57 40 32 04 0 0 34 533116 4 2 1 2 108 128 34 128 0 0 56 78 56 1131 0 0 1412 04 65 04 0 01 07 109 77001 3 0 2 1715 128 6 12 011 11 8 2 0 3 19 4 78 84 0 1 23 1213 109 O1 1 01 2122 12O 9 120 0015 1 4 1415 1011 32 1 23 2426 84 1011 84 0 1617 1617 1312 21 0 01 2829 120 12 120 110 O 01 1819 14 63 0 32 3331 48 1314 48 10 32 2120 16 21 1 01 3536 120 15 120 10105 4 2322 17 03 1 32 3840 48 1617 48 10 67 2425 1819 32 0 31 4243 12O 18 128 110111 2627 2120 O1 0 32 4745 48 2019 48 1112 1 3 2928 2122 32 1 O1 4950 12O 21 120 114115 3040 3123 1 01 02 5270 08 3022 08 21 1 06 6050 4639 30 O1 02 10587 08 3745 08 3 01 42 130 SPIRIT dealer’s Of Raisin Wine. 1«£. By varying the processes, the greatest varieties Of raisin wine may be made, of which I shall give a few, which I think will be fully sufficient, and to answer all the ends necessary. Take of the best Malaga raisins, pick them off the stalks, boil the quantity of water you are to make into wine, put it into a large tub in which you can have room to stir it with ease, and to every gallon of water add six pounds of raisins, and let the mixture stand twelve days, stirring it twice every day, then strain it off, and put it into a clean cask, reserving a sufficient quantity of the liquor to fill up the cask as it works over, which it will often do for more than six weeks, it must not be bunged up before the hissing and fermentation has ceased, when it may be closed up till it is fine. Of Raisin Wine. 2d. Take spring water and let it boil half an hour, and for every gallon of water take one pound of raisins stoned, one pound of sugar, and the rind of one lemon; pour the boiling water upon the above ingredients, and let it stand covered six days, then strain it out and bottle it off, and in about three weeks it will be fit for use. This is a very cool and pleasant wine in warm weather. Of Raisin Wine. 3c?. In the spring take twenty pounds of Malaga raisins, cut them slightly, and throw the stalks ASSISTANT. 131 when picked off into one gallon of water, take this water in part, put the raisins into a vessel proper for the purpose with three gallons of more water, and two gills of the best brandy or good malt whisky, stir it once a day with a stick for six days, then close it well up, let it stand half a year or more, or diminish the ingredients in equal proportions according to the quantity wanted. Of Raisin Wine. Uh. For every five pounds of raisins picked from the stalks, add one gallon of water, let the mixture steep fourteen days, stirring it once every day, then pour off the liquor and squeeze the juice out of the raisins, put the liquor into a clean cask that will neatly hold it (as it requires to be quite full) and let it stand open till it has done working, after which add two gills of French brandy or good whisky to every gallon, and stop it up close, let it stand half a year before it be bottled off, in the doing of which, take care that you draw it not too near the bottom of the cask, as the sediments would make it foul. The months of January, February and March are the only months to make this wine, as at this time the fruit is new. Of Raisin Wine. 5th. Take Malaga raisins, new and as good as can be got unpicked, add them and spring water together with hops, all the ingredients in the same proportion as in the table, stirring the mixture twice every day for a fortnight, then press out 132 SPIRIT DEALER’S the liquor into a tub, and add to this liquor a piece of bread toasted brown, and spread on both sides with good fresh ale yeast, then let it ferment twenty-four hours, and afterwards put the liquor into a clean cask, well fumigated and matched, where you may let it work for a fortnight longer, filling it up always as it works over, and when you see that the fermentation has ceased, bung it well up; a quantity of very good small wine may be made by pouring water on the raisins, in the proportion of gallons to every 15 pounds of raisins, and letting it stand six days, then pressing it out, when it is ten weeks old bottle it off for use. Example.—Suppose the ingredients for 18 gallons is wanted, look in the first column for No. 18, and on the same line in the other columns, you will find the quantity of raisins to be 85 pounds, 11 ounces, 6 drams; hops, 4- ounces, 8 drams; and Water 18 gallons, &c. Gal. is gallons, Qt. quarts, Pt. pints, Gil. gills, Lb. pounds, Oz. ounces, Dr. drams, &c. Note.—The raisins with their stalks that are used in making this wine, may afterwards be of great use in the making of vinegar, (See Vinegar making.) Raisins are the fruit of the vine, prepared by immersing the fresh fruit in a solution of alkaline salt, and soap-ley made boiling hot, to which is added some olive oil, and a small quantity of common salt, and afterwards, the fruit is dried in the shade; raisins so prepared, are grateful to the palate and good for the stomach. ASSISTANT. 133 Raisins. Hops. ^ ater. No. Lb. oz. dr. Lb. oz. dr. Gal. qt pt. gil. 1 4 12 3 0 0 4 210 0 0 0 32 149 48 96 O0 0 128 3 0 0 0 4 19 0 12 0 1 0 54 0 0 0 56 2328 129 152 0140 1 8 6 0 0 0 7 33 5 5 0 1 12 87 0 0 0 89 4238 131 118 0240 2 0 9 0 0 0 10 47 9 14 0 2 8 1011 0 0 O0 1112 5257 62 41 0 32 120 12 0 0 0 13 61 14 7 0 3 4 1314 0 O0 O0 1514 6671 106 1013 0 3 128 15 0 O 0 16 76 3 0 0 4 0 1617 O 0 0 1718 8580 1511 36 0 4 48 18 O O O 19 90 7 9 O 4 12 2019 O 0 O 2120 9995 153 1512 0 5 03 21 0 0 O 22 104 12 2 0 5 8 2322 0 0 0 2324 109114 48 58 0 56 120 24 0 O 0 25 119 0 11 0 6 4 2526 0 0O 0 2726 128123 129 141 0 6 128 27 0 0 0 28 133 5 4 0 7 0 2928 0 0 O0 3029 138142 131 107 0 7 48 30 0 0 0 40 190 7 8 0 10 0 5040 O0 0O 0 5060 238285 111 64 O0 1215 08 60 0 0 0 134- spirit dealer’s Of Orange Wine. 1st. Take the quantity of Malaga raisins requisite ! by the table, pick them clean off the stalks and mash them small, take also the quantity of Seville oranges, pare the rind off the half of the oranges i very clean and thin; take any quantity of soft, water, boil it till one-third is evaporated, take the quantity directed in the table, let it cool a little and pour it upon the raisins and orange! peel, after which stir it well, and cover it up when ■ cold, let it stand six days stirring it twice every day, then run this liquor through a hair sieve, I and with a board on the end of a stick press the pulp till it is dry; put the liquor into a clean cask adding the rinds of the other half of thejl oranges, pared the same as the first half; the day't before you tun it up, make a syrup of the juice! u of the whole oranges, and sugar upon the line in !i the table, put this syrup among the liquor, andi> stir it well about, close it up and let it stand: ■ eight weeks to fine, when it may be bottled off. j This wine will keep three years, and will greatlyt i improve in keeping. Example.—Suppose the ingredients for 1412 1011 2 1 01 6672 0 O0 4448 2 139 40 „j 1413 1213 2 0 32 78 0 O 52 3 0 12 115 14 2 0 1 8490 0 O0 5660 35 48 48 S16!l7 1615 21 01 3O 10296 0 0 6864 3 1512 120 1918 1718 1 1 21 108114 0O 0O 7276 4 37 84 2120 2019 1 O1 03 126120 0 0 8084 4 11014 12 •22 2122 1 0 21 138132 0O 0 9288 5 2 8 33 1 0 0 144 0 0 96 5 106 04 2524 O0 1 32 156150 0 O 104100 5 13 12 26 O 1 I 102 0 0 108 6 51 48 2728 O 01 30 168174 0 0 116112 6 129 120 3829 03 0 02 240180 0 O0 160120 97 06 08 4858 O1 1 02 360300 O0 0 240200 1114 111 08 136 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of Orange Wine. 2d. Take six gallons of water, and ten pounds of sugar, boil it half an hour, skimming it all the time, have at hand the peels of fifty oranges, so thinly pared that no white appear on them; then pour on your boiling water, and keep it close; none of the seeds must be used but picked carefully out, and when the liquor cools down to milk warm, add to it three spoonfuls of good ale yeast, let it ferment for three days, then put it into a clean cask with two quarts of white wine, and one quart of good brandy, (or if that cannot be got, take one quart of malt spirit,) let it stand seven weeks, then bottle it off, putting a small bit of loaf sugar into each bottle. Of Orange Wine. 3d. Take six pounds of fine sugar, and the whites of four eggs well beatten in three gallons of spring water, let the mixture boil one hour, skimming it all the time; then take it off, and when it is milk warm add the juice and rinds of twenty-five Seville oranges, and three spoonfuls of good ale yeast, let it stand two days, then put it into the cask with one quart of Vindegraw or Bucella wine, and the juice of six lemons, only observing that you must let the juice of the lemons, the wine, and one pound of loaf sugar stand closely covered for twelve hours before you put it in, taking care to skim off the seeds, ; as (they would impart a bitterness to the wine,) the lemon peel must be put in with the oranges, and half the rinds must be put into the cask. It ASSISTANT. 137 must stand twelve days, and then you may bottle it. Of Orange Wine. 4tk. Press out the juice of eight Seville oranges, and put one gallon of water wherein three pounds of sugar have been boiled for the space of twenty minutes, skim it constantly until cool- | ed down to a proper heat conducive to a fermentation, which is about lukewarm or a little \ better; add the juice and the outer rind of the \ fruit shaved off; put the whole mixture into one barrel, and stir it frequently for two or three K| days, and then bung it up closely for six months p before it be bottled—increase or diminish the ■ ingredients according to the quantity wanted. Note.— The orange tree grows plentifully in Italy, Spain, and Portugal, and bears flowers i and fruit all the year; but the fruit is gathered chiefly in October and November. The flowers grow on the younger shoots a- ' mong the leaves, they are white, and consist of » a single cup-fashioned leaf, cut into five parts, with several yellow stamina (fine threads which ^ grow up within the flowers of plants,) in the J 1 middle, and of a pregnant odoriferous smell. 0/’ Cowslip Wine. 1st. Add the water and loaf sugar together, same ii) ; proportions as in the table, and stir them well, o 5 beat and whisk up the whites of the eggs, and 1 ! mix them with the liquor, and make the whole l 3 138 SPIRIT DEALER’S boil as fast as possible for an hour, then skim it well, and let it boil another hour; afterwards strain it through a hair sieve, and set it aside to cool; when cooled down to milk warm, put a bit of brown toast bread spread over with good ale yeast, into the liquor, and let it ferment twelve hours, then bruise the cowslip flowers, and put them into a tub, pour the liquor upon them, and add the syrup of lemons; place a little hay or grass upon the bunghole, let it stand fifteen days, then bottle it off for use. Note.—Before putting in the liquor into the cask, put the cock into it, as great care must be taken before bottling, not to shake it to raise the sediments, which would create a new fermentation. Example.—Suppose the ingredients for 1 gallon is wanted, look in the first column for No. 1, and on the same line in the other columns you will find the quantity of water to be 3 quarts; the whites of eggs, 3 ; cowslip flowers, pints; lemon syrup, 1 ounce; sugar 2 pounds, 2 ounces, 4 drams, &c. ASSISTANT. 139 Table. Water. Eggs. Flowers.Cowslip LemonSyrup. No. Gal. qt. No. Pk. gal. pt. Lb. oz. Lb. oz. dr. 012 3 36 0O 0 52f 0 21 24 42 48 32 01 129 0 012 7£ 0 34 86 96 120 56 43 32 1518 O 17I 4§ 0 56 1012 1113 48 87 65 01 2124 1 0 41£ 0 87 1714 152 12O 109 76 32 3027 1 0II 6$ O0 109 2119 46 84 1112 98 O1 3336 1 161 3| O0 1211 2325 118 120 1413 109 32 3942 2 O0 0\3 O0 1314 2729 1315 48 1516 1211 O1 4548 2 O10 !>\ 01 15O 3432 41 120 1718 1213 32 5154 2 115 2i 112 1 3638 86 48 2019 1514 O1 5760 23 01 27$ 141 3 4042 1310 120 2122 1615 32 6663 3 0 4$7 161 5 4744 151 84 23 17 1 69 3 014 9f 118 7 49 3 12 2425 18 O3 7275 3 1 6£ 1 9 5153 68 O4 2627 2019 21 7881 4 0 3|1 1 1011 5557 1012 128 2829 21 30 8784 4 01 60£ 1 1213 5962 151 04 3040 3022 02 12090 46 013 4 21 148 6485 103 O8 5060 4537 02 180150 79 015 6 3 122 128107 07 O8 140 SPIRIT dealer’s Of Cowslip Wine. 2d. Take three gallons of water, and to every gallon add two pounds of loaf sugar; boil it a- bout an hour, and then let it cool, toast a piece of bread and spread both sides of it with yeast, but before it is put into the liquor, add to every gallon one ounce of the syrup of citrons; stir it well with the rest, and then put in the toast while it is warm. Let it work for three days, and in the mean time put in your cowslip flowers, first bruised a little, about half a peck, with two lemons skinned, and two gills of white wine to every gallon; let them stand three days, and afterwards put it into a good clean well fumigated cask, and when fine, bottle it off for use. Of Cowslip Wine. ?>d. Take ten gallons of water, and twenty pounds of sugar, boil them together an hour, skimming it well all the time, then put it into a tub, and let it stand till it is cold, after which, put in five pecks, one gallon, of cowslip flowers, and the juice and rinds of eight lemons pared very thin ; also § of a gill good ale yeast which you must also add at the same time. Let the mixture be stirred three times a-day for three days together, then rack it into a good clean cask (cowslips and all,) with 1 pint, 1 gill brandy, or good proof whisky, if brandy cannot be got. When the fermentation is over, then bung it up close for three weeks, and bottle it off for use; by in. ' creasing or diminishing the ingredients in equal proportions, any quantity may be made. ASSISTANT. 141 Note—In the meadows in most parts of Bri- tain this pliant plant grows spontaneously, the leaves are broad, of an oblong shape, inverted, rough, and of a light green colour inclining to white, the stalks are round, erect, strong, thick and covered with down, and rise from six to eight inches high, and are destitute of leaves; at the top is a cluster of beautiful yellow flowers, each upon a separate foot stalk, and in a distinct cup; the flowers are used in the making of wine and in medicine. Imitation Champaign Wine. 1st. Take three gallons of water, and nine pounds of moist sugar; boil the water and sugar half an hour, skim it clean, and pour the boiling liquor upon one gallon of the currants, picked from the stalks but not bruised ; and when cooled down to lukewarm, ferment it two days with half a pint of good ale yeast; then pour it through a flannel filtering bag, and put it into a clean cask with half a pint of dissolved isinglass finings: when it has done working, stop it close for a month or six weeks, and then bottle it; putting into every bottle a very small bit of loaf sugar; this is an excellent wine and has a fine colour. Imitation Champaign Wine. 2d. Take gooseberries before they grow fully ripe, crush or beat them with a mallet, in a wooden bowl or other convenient vessel, and to every gallon of fruit, add a gallon of water; let the 142 SPIRIT DEALER’S mixture stand two days, stirring it frequently; then squeeze the mixture with the hands through a sieve; measure your liquor, and to every gallon, put three pounds and a half of loaf sugar; mix it well in a tub, and let it stand one day; put a bottle of the best brandy in the cask; leave the cask open five or six weeks, taking off the froth or scum as it rises; then make it up, and let it stand one year in the barrel before it be bottled. Note. Asa rule, one pint of brandy may be put to seven gallons of liquor. OJ" Damson Wine. Isf. Gather the damsons when dry, weigh them, and bruise them with the hands, or any other way that may be most convenient; put the pulp into a proper vessel, boil the water, and when scalding hot, pour it upon the fruit, and let it stand three days; then draw it off and put it into a clean cask, add the quantity of sugar marked in the table, fill the cask well up to exclude the external air, and the longer it stands in the cask, bunged close up, it will still be the better: it may be kept a full year in the cask, when it may be bottled off. Example.—Suppose the ingredients for 7 gal- ons is wanted; look in the first column>for No. 7, and on the same line, in the other columns, you will find the water to be 5 gallons 1 gill; damsons, 21 pounds; sugar, 13 pounds, 2 oz. &c. ASSISTANT. 143 Note. The small damsons are reckoned the best; and after bottling, you may put a small bit of loaf sugar into every bottle, which will much improve and enliven it. Water. Damsons. Sugar. No. gal. qt. pt. gil. lb. oz. dr. lb. oz. dr. 21 01112 a 1 5 36 0 0 31 1412 0 34 2 03 111 0 129 0 0 57 108 0 56 34 210 0 32 1815 0 O0 1149 6 0 7 5 0 0 1 2124 0 O0 13 2 O 89 56 5115 0 0 27 0 0 1615 140 0 1011 7 30 111 2 3033 0 O0 2018 1210 O 1213 89 210 1 03 3639 0O 0 2224 86 0 1415 10 03 O 21 4245 O O0 2628 42 0 16 11 2 0 O 4851 O0 0 30 0 O 1817 12 30 1 52 54 0 O 3331 1412 0 19 13 2 1 1 5760 O0 0 35 10 0 2021 1415 01 O1 30 63 0 0 3937 68 0O 22 15 3 0 2 6669 0 O0 41 4 0 2324 1617 21 0 O1 72 0 O 4345 2O 0 25 17 3 1 3 7578 0 O0 46 14 0 2726 - 1819 21 1 21 81 0 0 4850 1210 O 28 20 0 1 0 8784 0 0 52 8 0 3029 2120 32 0 32 90 0 0 5654 46 0 40 28 3 0 O 120150 0 0O 75 0 0 5060 3543 30 1 20 180 0 O 11293 12 O0 144 SPIRIT dealer’s OJ' Damson Wine. 2d. For every gallon of water take two pounfis and a half of sugar, boil and skim it for two hours, and to every gallon of liquor add five pounds of damsons stoned; boil them till they are of a good red colour ; after which, strain the liquor through a sieve, and ferment it in an open- headed vessel four or five days, when it must be poured off from the lees ; clean out the vessel, and then put in the liquor again to finish the fermentation ; close it well up for seven or eight months, and if at that time it be fine, you may bottle it off; when it may be kept a year or two in the bottles which will much improve it. Of Damson Wine. 3rf. , To two gallons of water put eight pounds of Malaga raisins, and one gallon of damsons in a tub; covef it, and let it stand six days, stirring it twice every day, then draw off the liquor and colour it; tun it up into a clean cask, bung it for a fortnight, and then bottle it off. A Family Wine. An excellent family wine may be made of equal parts of white, red and black currants, ripe cherries and raspberries, well bruised and mixed with soft water, in the proportion of four pounds weight of fruit to one gallon of water: when the juice is strained1 and pressed out, three pounds of moist sugar is to be added to each gallon of juid. After standing open three days, during ASSISTANT. 145 which time it is to be stirred frequently, and clean skimmed as it is seen necessary; it is to be put into a barrel, and left for fifteen days to work; when four gills of brandy is to be added for each gallon, and the whole bunged down, and in two or three years it will be rich, value- able and pleasant to the taste. Of Raspberry Wine. Isf. Pound your fruit in a mortar or other vessel; then strain it through a cloth or filtering bag, and boil as much water as there is juice, and when cold, pour it on the dry strained fruit, let it stand six hours, and then strain it again and mix it with the juice. To every gallon of this liquor add two pounds and a half of sugar; let this mixture stand in an earthen vessel close covered up for a week, when it may be put into a clean cask, and let it stand well bunged for a mouth or more, or at any rate till it is fine, after which it may be bottled off for use. Of Raspberry Wine. Id. Take of raspberries two gallons, and put them in an earthen pot; then take two gallons of water, and boil it two hours, let it cool down to milk-warm, and pour it upon the raspberries; stir the whole well together and let it stand twelve hours, then strain it off; and to every gallon of liquor add three pounds of loaf sugar; then set it over a slow fire, clear, without smoke, and let it boil, skiming it all the time, till all the 146 SPIRIT DEALER’S scum is taken off; and when cold, put it into bottJes, drawing the corks (which must be slack- ly put in,) every day for fourteen days, when they may be corked up close. Note The raspberry is well known—the fruit of this plant has a pleasant, sweet taste, accompanied with a peculiar grateful flavour— its virtues consist in allaying heat and thirst. 0/an American Wine. Put a*quantity of the combs from which the honey has been strained, into a tub, and add a barrel of cyder new from the press; let this mixture be well stirred, and left standing for one night; let it then be strained again before the fermentation takes place, and honey added until the strength of the liquor is sufficient to bear an egg; put it then into a barrel, and after the fermentation has commenced, fill the cask every day, for three or four days, in order that the extraneous matter may work out at the bunghole; when the fermentation becomes moderate, put in the bung loosely, least stopping it too tight, might cause the cask to burst. At the end of six weeks, draw the liquor off into a tub; take the whites of eight eggs, well beat up, and a pint of clean sand, put them among the liquor, and then add a gallon of cyder spirit; mix the whole well together, and return it again into the cask; after it has been well cleaned, bung it up tight, and place it in a proper situation for racking or drawing off; when fine, draw it off into kegs or bottles, for use. This wine will be found < ASSISTANT. 147 equal to any foreign wine, and in the opinion of some, superior. This is a wine needs no foreign mixture, and | the experiment has been often repeated, and ; was communicated to the public, by Joseph | Cooper, Esq. of New Jersey, North America. Of Clary Wine. 1st. 5 Take of the best Malaga raisins, twelve s pounds, pick and chop them very small, and put ft them in a tub, and to each pound weight of i raisins allow a quart of water; let them steep a L> fortnight, stirring them twice every day, and ! take care to keep it well covered all the time; || then strain it off, and put it into a clean cask * with one gallon of the tops of clary when in full blossom, and afterwards close it up for six weeks, and then bottle it off. It will be necessa- ;; ry to tap this wine pretty high, as in this wine :: there is a good deal of sediment, jj Note. Clary is a plant kept in our gardens, ; not for its beauty but for its virtues. It grows | from two feet to two feet and a half high; the ! leaves are rough, and the flowers of a faint blue, the stalks are thick, juicy and upright, clammy to the touch, and somewhat hairy, the leaves are large, wrinkled, and of a dusky green, &c. A kind of wild clary grows on our ditch banks, and in dry grounds, which probably possess the same virtues as the garden clary: wine is made from this plant of which it bears the name. 148 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of Clary Wine. 2d. Take five gallons of water, twelve pounds of moist sugar, and the whites of six eggs, set it over the fire, and let it boil gently for an hour, skimming it all the time; then put it into a tub, and when milk warm, put it into a dean cask with one gallon of clary tops, and half a pint of new yeast; stir it three times every day for three days, and when it has done working, close it up; if fine you may bottle it off in three or four months. Of Koumiss or Tartar Wine. Koumiss is a wine much famed in Tartary, and is made thus: Take of fresh mares milk all of one day, any quantity, add to it a sixth part water, and pour the mixture into a wooden vessel, and use as a ferment, an eighth part of the sourest cows milk that can be got, (but a small portion of koumess left over, a future preparation will answer the purpose of souring much better.) Cover the vessel with a thick cloth, and set it in a place of moderate warmth; leave it at rest twenty-four hours, at the end of which time the milk will have become sour, and a thick consistence will have gathered on its top; then, with a stick, made at the lower end in the form of a churn staff, beat and whisk it till the thick substance above mentioned, be compleatly incorporated with the other fluid. In this situation leave it again at rest for twenty-four hours more; after which, pour it into a higher and narrower ASSISTANT. 149 vessel resembling a churn, where the agitation must be repeated as before, till the liquor appear to be perfectly heterogeneous or mixed. In this state it is called kouimss, of which the taste ought to be a pleasant mixture of sweet and sour together. It must be agitated every time before it is used: this wine is reckoned an excellent, antiseptic, stimulant cooling cordial, and simple in its preparation. Of Apricot Wine. Take six pounds of apricots when nearly ripe, wipe them clean and cut them into pieces, then put them into one gallon of water, and let them boil till the water has strongly imbibed the flavour of the fruit, then strain the liquor through a hair sieve, and put to every quart of liquor, three ounces of loaf sugar, after which boil it again and skim it, and when the scum ceases to rise, pour it into an earthen vessel, and the next day bottle it off, putting a small bit of loaf sugar into each bottle^ which will much improve and enliven it. Note.—Apricots nearly resemble apples, when ripe they are easily digested, and are considered as a pleasant and nutrous delicacy. Of Ginger Wine. 1&. Take seven gallons of water, twelve pounds of sugar, half a pound of white ginger bruised, and the whites of four eggs well beaten; put them in the water, and set it on the fire; when it boils m 3 150 SPIRIT DEALER’S skim it well, and after it has boiled a quarter of an hour, take it off; when cold, put it into an open vessel, and take seven lemons, pare them and squeeze in the juice, adding also the rinds; then put to the mixture a gill of good ale yeast, and let it work for twenty-four hours; afterwards draw it off, put it into your cask, and in fifteen days, if fine, bottle it off for use. Of Ginger Wine. ‘2d. ( Take the proper quantity of water and sugar as in the table, add them together, and boil them three quarters of an hour, skimming it all the time; when the liquor is cold, squeeze in the juice of the lemons, then boil the peels with the proportion of white ginger allowed in the table, into part of the water for the space of an hour, and when cold, put it all together into the cask with the finings and raisins; then bung it up, and let it stand two or three months, in which time it will be fine, and may be bottled off. Example.—Suppose the ingredients for fourteen gallons is wanted, look in the first column for No. 14;, and on the same line in the other columns, you will find the quantity of water to be 11 gallons, 1 quart, 1 pint, sugar, 21 pounds, lemons, 7, raisins, 10 pounds 8 ounces, and ginger, 7 ounces, &c. A’o/e.—The proportion of finings is 1 gill to each 4? gallons of liquor. ASSISTANT. 151 Water. Sugar. Lemons. Raisins. Ginger. No.1 Gal.0 qt.3 pt.0 gil.2 Lb.1 oz.8 No.04 Lb.O oz.12 Lb.0 oz.0 dr8 32 212 1 101 2 43 08 l£1 218 4 0 101 8 45 34 01 0 02 67 08 2§2 3 120 0 2 08 67 54 32 1 02 109 08 33£ 45 48 0 3 08 89 67 21 0 02 1213 08 44§ 6 120 0 4 08 1011 8 30 1 02 1516 08 55f 78 84 0 5 08 1213 109 32 0O 02 1819 O8 6^6 9 120 0 6 08 1415 1112 01 1 02 2122 08 747 1011 48 0 7 08 1617 13 03 0 02 2425 08 884 12 120 0 8 08 1819 1415 21 l1 02 2728 08 994 1314 84 0 9 08 2120 1617 01 O0 O2 3031 08 10104 15 12O O0 10 08 2223 1718 32 1 02 3334 08 11411 1617 84 O0118 11 0 2524 2019 21 0 02 3736 08 12412 18 120 0 12 08 26 21 0 1 O 39 O 13134 2019 48 0 13 08 2728 2122 3 01 20 4042 80 14 21 0 0 14 0 2930 2324 21 01 20 4345 80 144 21 12 0 14 8 40 32 2 0 0 60 0 2015 3022 08 01 154 0 5060 4048 32 01 0 7590 0 3025 4537 08 1 149 0 gingerJVbte.—Ginger's are both produced well known,from the and same the plant—the white and differ- black enceGinger depending is generally upon theconsidered mode of aspreparing one of ourthem. aromatics, andbe expected is less pungent, from its andeffects heating upon tothe the organs system, of taste.than might 152 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of Mulberry Wine. Gather the mulberries when they are fully ripe, beat them in a mortar, and to every quart of berries add a quart of spring water; put them in a tub and mix them well together and let them stand all night, then strain them through a sieve, and to every gallon of liquor add three pounds of sugar; when the sugar is dissolved, put it into a cask, into which (if an eight gallon one) put one gill of finings, and the same in proportion to any quantity, care must be taken that the cask benot too full nor bunged too close at first, set it in a cold place, and when fine bottle it off for use. Note.-The mulberry is pretty generally known, the juice is of a deep violet colour, and in its qualities agrees with acido-dulces, (sweet nitre,) in allaying thirst, &c. Of Birch and Maple Tree Wine. The vernal sap of the birch and British maple (or plane tree,) is made into an excellent wine, by tapping, which is done in the following manner. In March bore a hole in the tree a foot from the ground, into which put a faucet or spigot and the liquor will run for two or three days together, without in the least injuring the tree, after which stop up the hole with a pin or peg; next year the same operation may be repeated from the same hole, or there may be a number of holes bored according to the size of the tree, and according to the number of trees, any quantity may be obtained. To every gallon of liquor add a quart of honey, or two pounds ASSISTANT. 153 and a quarter of sugar, and stir the whole well together, boil it for an hour, skimming it all the time, (some add more sugar than the above according to the taste, in the proportion of four pounds to a gallon,) adding a few cloves and some lemon peel; when it is cooled down to milk- warm, add as much good ale yeast as will make it work like ale; when the fermentation begins to | settle, take a well fumigated cask and put into it j your liquor, for every twenty gallons put in a J gill of finings, and the whites and shells of half a ^ dozen eggs, stir the whole briskly with a staff, and ^ let it stand six weeks, when it may be bottled, and in two months more it will be fit for use, ( but it will greatly improve by keeping, and will S drink better at the end of two years than one. Note.—It is by this mode of tapping that the I Americans in the back settlements collect the juice of the maple, which they boil into a thick consistency, and pour into moulds of different j sizes, and when taken for use, they break it into ■ small pieces with a knife and mallet as may suit [ the end for which it is wanted. Of Balm Wine. To make balm wine, take half a bushel of the leaves, put them in a tub and pour four gallons I of scalding hot water upon them; let it stand all t night, when it is to be strained through a sieve, and to every gallon of liquor add two pounds of loaf sugar, stirring it well till the sugar is dis- ji solved, then put it on the fire adding the whites ji of three eggs well beaten. When the scum be- 154 SPIRIT DEALER’S gins to rise, take it off, and let it boil about half an hour skimming it all the time, then put it into a tub again, and when milkwarm add a gill of good ale yeast, stirring it every two hours; work it thus for two or three days, then cork it and bung it up, when fine bottle it off for use. Note.—Balm is a native of the southern parts of Europe, but very common in our gardens; it has a roughish aromatic taste, and a pleasant smell of the lemon kind. Of Quince Wine. 1st. Take twenty quinces that are pretty large, (but gathered dry) clean them well and grate them as near the core or heart as possible, not to grate any of it into the vessel among the pulp, boil ; one gallon of spring water and put your grated quinces into it, after which let it boil gently a quarter of an hour, and then strain the liquor into an earthen vessel; to every gallon of the liquor add two pounds of loaf sugar, stirring it till the sugar is dissolved, then cover it up close, | and let it stand twenty-four hours, after which it may be bottled off, taking proper care that none of the sediments goes into the bottles, as it might ferment in the bottles and make the wine foul; also you will observe that your quinces be fully ripe. Of Quince Wine. 2d. Take your quinces, clean and grate them well, press them through a linen bag, and to every gallon of liquor add two pounds of loaf sugar. ASSISTANT. 155 and when the sugar is properly dissolved, pour it off as often as there appears any sediment; when it becomes fine, put it into a cask, and let it remain a week unstopped, when you may bung it up for six months and if it is then fine you may I put into bottles, but if not, you must draw it in- to another cask and bung it up again until it is i fine, and then bottle it off for use. ] Note.—The quince tree is a native of Crete, \ and is also named Cydon, from Cydon where it ’ grows. Of Cherry Wine. Pull the cherries from the the stalks and mash j or bruise them without breaking the stones, then I press them through a hair sieve, and to every gallon of liquor add two pounds of sugar, then tun it up into a clean cask till it is filled up to the bunghole, and allow the liquor to ferment as long as it makes any noise in the cask, then bung f: it up close for a month, or even six weeks if not S fine; after which if it is fine, bottle it off, putting a lump of loaf sugar into every bottle, but should ;; the fermentation be too violent, you must draw the corks out for a while until it cease a little, 1 then cork them again, and it will be fit to drink ' in six months. Of Black Cherry Wine. 1st. Take spring water three gallons, and boil it an hour, then take twelve pounds of black cherries, and bruise them, taking care not to 156 SPIRIT DEALER’S break the stones; pour the boiling water upon the cherries and stir them well together, and after they have stood 24- hours, strain out the liquor through a cloth, and to every gallon add two pounds of sugar, then mix it well and let it stand a day longer; pour off the clear liquor into a cask, and keep it close bunged, and when it is fine and bright, bottle it off for use. This is an excellent, pleasant, cooling and agreeable wine. Of Cherry Wine. %d. Bruise your cherries and put them into a linen bag, and press out the juice into a cask, then draw off the fine liquor into a clean fumigated cask, and bung it close for 48 hours, and then give it vent, and in two days more time bung it well up again, and in three months it may be bottled. Note.—The same process may be followed in the making of strawberry and raspberry wine. Cherries are so well known that they need no description. Of Blackberry or Black Currant Wine. Take blackberries when they are fully ripe, bruise them, and put to everjr gallon of berries a gallon of water, mix them well and let them stand twelve hours, then strain them through a sieve, and to every gallon of liquor add two pounds and a half of sugar; when your sugar is dissolved, put the whole mixture into a cask, and to every twenty gallons of which, add a gill of ASSISTANT. 157 finings, and the next day bung it up; in two months bottle it off for use. Note The blackberry is generally known, as it grows almost in every garden; the leaves of the blackberry bush have a strong and agreeable smell, which they give forth freely by infusion. Of Lemon Wine. First, take the half of the allowance of lemons, pare off the rinds, cut them and squeeze out the juice, into which steep the rinds, and then adding the proportion of brandy, and letting it stand in a proper vessel three days, at the end of which time squeeze in the juice of the other half of the lemons, and add to this mixture the allowance of water (spring water) and sugar, then boil the water, sugar and lemons together for a short time, then let it stand till it is cold, and add the allowance of white wine marked in the table, mix the whole well together and strain it through a linen bag into a proper cask or vessel, then let it stand three months, when you may bottle it off; keep the bottles in a cool place, or in sand, and it will be fit for drinking in other three months. Example Suppose the ingredients for 26 gallons is wanted; look in the first column for No. 26, and on the same line in the other columns, you will find the quantity of water to be 10 gallons, 2 quarts, 2 gills; brandy, 4 gallons, 3 quarts, 1 pint; white wine, 5 gallons, 2 quarts, 1 pint, 2 gills; lemons, 312; sugar, 26 pounds, &c. Gal. is gallons, qt. quarts, pt. pints, N 158 SPIRIT dealer’s gil. gills, No. number of, lb. pounds, oz. ounces, dr. drams, &c. Note.—As this wine is apt to fly the corks, the bottle will require to be well corked and wired. The Lemon is a native of the upper parts of Asia, but is cultivated in Spain, Portugal and France. The juice, which is much more acid than that of the orange, possesses similar virtues. It is always preferred where a strong vegetable acid is required, it is found to spoil by long keeping; to preserve the lemon in purity for a considerable length of time, it is necessary that it should be brought to a highly concentrated state, and for this purpose it has been recommended to expose the juice to a degree of cold sufficient to congeal the aqueous and mucilaginous parts; after a crust of ice is formed, the juice is poured into another vessel, and by re- peating this process several times, the remaining juice, it is said, has been concentrated to eight times its original strength, and will keep without suffering any material change for several years. The exterior rind of the lemon is a very grateful aromatic bitter, not so hot as orange peel, and is employed with the same intentions. ASSISTANT. 159 Water. ; Brandy. White Wine. Lemons. No. GaLqt.pt.gil. gal. qt pt. giL galqt.ptgil. No. of. 21 0 3111 0 2 0 01 1 20 0 01 1 32 2412 2 34 1012 1310 00 23 00 20 0 32 1 01 4836 34 5 2 0 0 1 0 3 1012 11021003 6072 5 76 2 3112 0 3 101 1 02 1201 84 76 8 3 1 0 0 1 2 012 0 1 3 01 30 10896 8 109 34002 2 1 1 131 2 10 2 0 1 2 120 109 1211 4 3113 1 0 2 01 0 02 2 21 1 O1 144132 1211 1314 55101 2 1 2 212 2 12 2 5 0 3 156 13 15 6003 23 021 0 3 01 0 21 168180 1514 1716 6 32 01 01 3SO 0 00 3 2 0 0 192 16 18 7 1 0 2 3 1 112 0 3 32 1 32 204216 1718 2019 78 02 1 03 53 32 0 02 4 01 1 01 228240 2019 2221 8 32 10 21 43 03 1012 43024 2 0 5 264252 21 2423 9 31 0 03 4 21 002 0 5 01 0 O1 276288 23 25 10 0 1 1 42 1 2 5 1 1 3 300 2524 2726 10 32 01 32 54 03 0210 5 32 1 21 324312 26 28 11 1 1 0 5 1 0 0 6 0 1 0 336 2827 3029 1211 30 01 21 5 21 110 2 66202 1 0 3 360348 29 40 16 1 0 O 7 2 00 8300 480 4030 6050 2024 1 10 02 119 1 01 00 1310 03 11 02 720600 50 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of Currant Wine. 1st. Pull the currants, but not too ripe, strip them into an earthen vessel, provided you can get one large enough for the quantity; take the quantity of water and sugar as in the table, mix them to- 1 gether and boil them, skimming them all the f time, and after no scum rises, pour the liquor boiling hot upon the currants, and let the mixture stand 48 hours; then strain it off into another vessel through a flannel bag and let it stand a fortnight to settle and fine, then bottle it off for use. Example Suppose the ingredients for four 1 gallons is wanted, look in the first column for No. 4, and on the same line in the other column, you will find the quantity to be 2 pecks; water, 2 gallons, 2 quarts; sugar, 5 pounds, 8 ounces, &c. Bu. is bushels, pk. pecks, gal. gallons, pt. pints, qt. quarts, gil. gills, lb. pounds, oz. ounces, dr. drams, &c. ASSISTANT. 161 Currants. Water. Sugar. No. Bu. pk. gal. pt. gal. qt. pt. gil. lb. oz. dr. 0 0 10 0 2 10 16 0 2 0 10 0 110 0 42 122 0 OllO 213 2 010 0 5 8 0 0 2 010 0 3 0 10 6 14 0 6 0 3 0 0 3 3 0 0 98 104 0 7 010 3 100 0 45 0110 0 0 110 0 9 10 10 5 2 10 12 6 0 10 110 0 6 310 10 0 1513 122 O0 ' 1211 111012 0 0 7 2 0 0 16 8 0 i 13 12 10 8 30 010 0 1719 144 Oo i? 1514 13 010 0 9 110 20 10 O ! 16 2 0 0 0 10 0 0 0 2223 06 O 5 1817 2 010 10 0 1011 21 01 0O 24 12 O ' 19 2 110 11 3 1 0 2726 28 o0 2 2 010 0 1213 20 O1 O0 28 14 O 2 3 0 0 1413 31 O1 O0 3130 104 O0 32 30 010 0 15 0 0 O 33 0 0 3 0 10 1615 21 01 0 3435 126 0 3 10110 0 16 3 1 0 37 2 0 3 2 0 0 1718 02 01 0 3938 148 0O 3 32 010 0 18 3 0 0 41 4 O 5 0 0 0 2531 O1 O0 0 5568 120 0O 67 210 0 0 37 2 0 0 82 8 0 162 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of Currant Wine. 2d. Gather your currants when fully ripe, on a fine dry day, strip them and bruise them in a mortar with a pestle, and to every gallon of pulp, put two gallons of cold water, (which has been previously boiled) let it stand in a tub twenty-four hours to ferment, then let it run through a hair sieve, not using the hand to press or hasten it, but letting it run off gently. To every gallon of this liquor, add two pounds and a half of loaf sugar; stir it well, and then put it into the cask, and add to every six gallons, a quart of the best rectified spirit of wine, good brandy, or the best double malt whisky. Let it stand six weeks and then bottle it. It will also answer much better to draw it off at the first, in- to large bottles, and after it has stood 15 days, rack it off into smaller ones. Of Currant Wine. 3d. Take your currants when they are fully ripe, strip and break them with the hands till all the berries are completely mashed and bruised, and to every gallon of pulp put a gallon of water, mix them well together, and let them stand all night in your tub, then strain the liquor through a hair sieve, and to every gallon add two pounds and a half of loaf sugar; when the sugar is dissolved, put the whole into a cask, adding to it a little isinglass dissolved. Also to every four gallons put a quart of Mountain wine, then bung the cask close, and when it is fine, draw it off and wash the cask with a little of the wine; run the n 3 ASSISTANT. 163 sediments through a filtering bag, and put the whole into the cask again, and to every gallon, add half a pound more sugar, let it stand four weeks then bottle it off. Of Gooseberry Wine. Is#. For every two pounds of gooseberries, take 10 j ounces of sugar and a pint of spring water; ■ bruise the berries and let them lie 24 hours in the « water, stirring them every two hours, after which • press out the liquor and add the sugar, when it must be put into a good clean cask, and when the fermentation ceases, close it up and let it stand a month; rack it off into another cask, where it must remain six weeks longer, when it may be bottled off, and a bit of loaf sugar put into the mouth of each bottle to make it lively. Of Gooseberry Wine. Id. Take as many pearl gooseberries as may be thought proper, mash and bruise them, and let them stand twelve hours, then press or squeeze them out, and let the liquor stand eight hours; after which, pour off the clear juice from the sediment, and measure it as you put it into the cask, and to every three pints of liquor, add a pound of loaf sugar broken in small pieces, together with a little finings; close it up, and in twelve weeks, bottle it off, and put into the mouth of every bottle a bit of loaf sugar. This makes a most excellent Gooseberry wine. 164- spikit dealer’s Of Gooseberry Wine. 3d. Take four gallons of water and half a pound of sugar, boil it an hour, skim it well and let it stand till it is cold; then to every quart of this liquor add three pounds of gooseberries, mashed and well bruised; let it stand twenty-four hours, then strain it out, and to every gallon of this liquor add three pounds of moist sugar, and let the mixture stand in the vessel twelve hours; when the thick scum must be taken off and the clear liquor put into a good clean cask, into which it must remain four weeks, when it is drawn off and the cask rinced with some of the liquor; when the whole is again put into the cask and let stand four months, when it may be bottled off for use. Of Gooseberry Wine. 4?th. Take three gallons of gooseberries fully ripe and a gallon and a half of water; first boil the water two hours previously, having the gooseberries mashed and bruised into a proper vessel, very small, pour the water when it is cold upon the bruised gooseberries; let the mixture stand twelve hours, when the clear liquor may be drawn off, afterwards measure the liquor, and to every quart add three quarters of pound of loaf sugar, let it stand eight hours to dissolve, stirring it once every two hours during that time; after which put it into a cask with two spoonfuls of good ale yeast, when the bung may be put in- to the bunghole slightly at first that it may work more freely, and when' you observe that the ASSISTANT. 165 working has ceased, and no fermentation appear, bung it well up, and when the weather is a little frosty, bottle it off for use. Of Gooseberry Wine. 5th. Take your gooseberries, but not over ripe, and bruise them in a wooden vessel, but not too much to break the seeds, then measure them, and to every gallon of bruised berries add two gallons of cold water, stir them well together and let them stand twenty-four hours covered, draw the liquor from the berries into a proper vessel, but if too thick, strain it through a bag, and to every gallon of liquor, add two pounds of loaf sugar dissolved; stir the whole well together and put it into a cask, let it work two days and then bung it up for seven days more, and draw it from the cask, and wash out the cask with a little of the liquor, and to every gallon add half a pound more sugar; stir the whole well together and put it again into the cask, then bung it up for a month, at the end of which, it will be fit for bottling for use. Of Gooseberry Wine. 5th. To each Scotch pint of full ripe gooseberries, mashed, add one Scotch pint of water, miikwarm, into which has been dissolved one pound of single refined sugar; stir the whole well, and cover up the tub or vessel with a blanket, to preserve the heat generated by the fermentation of the ingredients; let them remain in the vessel three days, stirring them twice or thrice every 166 SPIRIT DEALER’S day; then strain the liquor off through a sieve, and afterwards through a coarse linen cloth, put it into the cask; it will ferment without yest, let the cask be kept full with some of the liquor re- served for the purpose, it will ferment from 12 to 20 days; when ceased, and only a hissing noise remains, draw off two or three bottles ac- ( cording to the strength you wish it to have, from every 20 pint cask, and fill up the cask with brandy or good malt whisky, but brandy is to be preferred. Also, to make it very good, and to keep well, add as much Sherry wine, together with a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in water to make it quite liquid; stir the whole well, and bung up the casks, surrounding the bung with clay, for the closer it is bunged the better; in fourteen days after, if it be clear at the top, taste it, if not sweet enough, add sugar to your taste; 22 pounds of sugar is the quantity allowed for 20 pints of wine, leave the wine six months in the cask, but after being quite fine, the sooner it is bottled, it will sparkle and resemble Champaign the more : the process should be carried on in a place where the heat is betwixt 48 and 56 Farenheit’s thermometer. Note.—The Currant wine may be made in the same way. ASSISTANT. 167 0/’ Winefrom English Grapes. It appears that grapes of British growth formerly, and now the case is the same, do not ripen every year, as might be expected, but are subject to occasional failures, but though this is the case, we have no reason to conclude that our climate has undergone any material change in its genial warmth, as it appears always to have been nearly the same, or rather it is in a state of amelioration from the great and rapid progress which our agricultural system has undergone of late years. It appears also, that in the south of England, the making of wines from grapes of \ English growth was formerly carried on to a i much greater extent, but now although the prac- i tice is greatly diminished, it is not extinct, for ' the cottagers in Sussex are in the habit of making wines, annually, from the produce of vines trained on the walls of their own houses. Also in various parts of the southern counties ■and even as far north as Derbyshire, they practice the same with success, and the process has jbeen carried on on a large scale at Pains Hill, iby the Honourable Charles Hamilton, and with [Complete and satisfactory results, in a situation and exposure of which, many of such like can be found throughout the country, and produced From land of no great value for the common purposes of agriculture. » No doubt the uncertainty of the climate will ■ Sometimes prevent the grapes from ripening, but ilthough this may be the case, it is not without emedy, and the only thing that can be done is o select those which are most early; if a ripe

168 SPIRIT DEALER’S crop is wanted, such as the Avcrnaut, the Miller, the White Muscadine, the white and black Chas- selas, the black Sweet Water, the black Hamburg, &c. The making of wine from grapes of British growth does not depend so much upon their maturation, as upon the necessary circumstances to be followed in the other processes in the making of the wine. From this I conclude, that a vineyard may be conducted with nearly as little care as a gooseberry garden, and with a certainty of a constant produce fit for the purposes in view, and it must be in every ones power in almost every situation, to produce good wine, however precarious the ripening of the grapes may be; we are sure of an annual crop of grapes, but not of an annual crop of ripe ones. It may without doubt be seen, that a compound and artificial must can be made from due mixtures of sugar, with the extractive matter and saline substances of fruits, which are capable of undergoing a regular fermentation, and of forming good and perfect wine. The case is as applicable to the grape as to the gooseberry. Experiments have been made in France by chemists with green grapes and sugar, and have been attended with complete success, which show that grapes may be used in any state, however immature, and even but half grown and' perfectly hard, they succeed completely. No doubt the wine will be more expensive than that from ripe grapes, as a sufficient quantity of sugar must be used to make up for the deficiency of the natural sugar in the grape, but even then. ASSISTANT. 169 they are not more costly than gooseberry wines, and far superior; for the hardest grapes will produce a wine of the strength of White Her- mitage. If a proportion of 3 pounds of sugar is added to the gallon of must, and the expense will be but trifling compared with the value of the produce. It might be thought or supposed that these wines would have no flavour, but this is not the case, as has been fully shown from specimens at different times produced, where flavour was e- qually genuine, and as decided as those of the foreign wines to which they are nearly allied. With regard to the management, it must be founded upon the operations followed in the wine countries, which is given in another place, and as it is impossible to give proper rules applicable to the different degrees of maturity in which the grape must often be used, and strict and positive rules may tend to mislead rather than inform and instruct.—I have laid down some general principles, leaving the application to the ingenuity of the operator. From motives of eco- nomy, the grapes should be suffered to remain on the vine while there is any hope of them gaining an accession of strength either in flavour or sweetness. And one thing is also to be noticed, that the colour is not developed before they are ripe, therefore, if grapes is in the immature state, the wine will require the addition of artificial colouring. (See Colouring for Wines. J There is another thing necessary in immature fruit, to form a must of a quality nearly resembling the natural must of ripe fruit, that is the o 170 SPIRIT DEALER’S addition of water to the immature must, for the purpose of deluting, that the process of fermentation may have the power of overcoming that degree of harshness which otherwise it might acquire. It is intended to imitate Champaign or the white wines of Bourdeaux. For grapes barely half grown, half water and half crude grape will be necessary. If they are more grown, the proportion of crude may be increased, if less, it may be diminished, &c. If it is intended to resemble Hook, the proportion of grapes may be materially increased, and the wine, though at first harsh, by being kept in the cask, will ameliorate and improve, which nothing but time can do. Also, various quantities of sugar may be applied; 2 pounds to the gallon will yield a very light wine of no durability; increase of sugar to 3 pounds IT gallon, will yield a wine equal in strength to the best sort of Champaign; or if fermented to dryness, to the strongest of the white wines of Bourdeaux. The general cause of the failure of these wines which are made in this country, from ripe grapes, is the difficiency of sugar, and they would certainly be much improved by the addition of it, as it is wholly owing to this defficiency that these wines are perishable, and so easily converted into vinegar, the natural must being too watery to produce a durable wine, but as no positive rules can be given for the proportion of sugar, it must vary with the maturity and saccharine quality of the fruit, circumstances which differ in almost every season. ASSISTANT. m Two methods of management may also be adverted to, viz. by either subjecting the skins to fermentation or not; if subjected to fermentation, a greater degree of harshness will be the consequence, and the wine will vary in its qualities; therefore on a large scale, the juice obtained by a second pressing may be kept to make a distinct wine; if on a small scale, it may be rejected al- ! together. ! Situations may be found in this country where i the vine may not produce even immature fruit, [ yet still it can be directed to the end of wine • making. Experiments were instituted in France with this view, and have been repeated in England I with success, which show that from young shoots, | tendrils, vine leaves, water and sugar, wines may be produced in no respect differing from that produced from the immature fruit, and consequently resembling those of foreign growth. No other rules can be laid down for the ma- j; nagement of the leaves, than those laid down for " the treatment of the unripe fruit. Therefore, !' proportion and similar management will, in both i cases, produce similar effects, the leaves, however, ; yield little or nothing to the press, and require to be infused in water some days before they are ; submitted to fermentation, and they seem to yield their soluble parts more readily in boiling water without any material alteration in the result. Tartar is also necessary and useful in this case, [and it may be added, in the proportion of half a pound, or even one pound to each gallon of must. And the leaves of the vine are produced with 172 SPIRIT DEALER’S such facility, that those of a single vine will be as much as is required for the use of most families, should they make this wine for their own consumption. It may be noticed, that the price of sugar is the price of the wine, the utensils and labour is only trifling, and when the manufacturer is on a small scale, unworthy of regard. The method of conducting the fermentation and after management will be seen in another place, and need not be noticed here. From these hints, the operator will be directed in the several sorts of wine he may wish to make. And with regard to their durability, if properly managed, they will keep seven years, and during all that time with evident improvement, and I consider them to be as little liable to destruction aad decay, as foreign wines of the very best fabrique. Of the Making and Management of English Grape Wine. Is# Let the vines be well grown, so as to bring forth full clusters, then take off those leaves that too much shade the grapes, (but not in the hot season, least the sun should draw away the juices, and cause them to wither,) pull those that are ripe, (as they would be over ripe, and spoil before the underlings come to perfection,) and continue pulling them that are ripest every other day, spread them in a dry shady place, that they may not be burnt by the heat; by this process, those on the vine will receive more heat and nourish- ment, will be sooner ripe, and grow of a larger size. When you have got a sufficient quantity ASSISTANT. m collected, put them into an open-headed vessel, and bruise them well with the hands, or any other way which may be thought most convenient, such as by a churn, staff, &c. taking care not to break the stones but as little a possible, as that | would impart a bitterness to the wine. Having l bruised them to a pulp, tap your vessel or cask ; at the bottom, and cover the receiving tub with ■ a haircloth and let that run out at the top which “ will run off of itself, which is always the best; : then take out the pulp and press it out by degrees f till the liquor is drawn off, then get a clean t matched cask, and pour the liquor into it ' through a seive and funnel, to keep out the sediments, then let it stand 12 days with the bung- i hole covered, to refine and ferment; draw it off ; gently into another clean cask and cover the bunghole as before, till the fermentation is over, which will be easily known by its coolness and pleasant taste; and if a colour is wanted, that can be easily given to any tint required. See |j Colouring for Wines. Note. There is a grape grows in England, much resembling musk in smell, which may be brought by the addition of sugar, to produce a very fine rich wine, and altogether as pleasant as ! Canary or Muscadine. Of the Making and Management of English Grape Wine. 2d. Gather the grapes on a dry day, put them into a press and squeeze them so as not to break the stones, strain out the liquor into a cask and let o S 174- spirit dealer’s it settle well, after which draw off the clear liquor into another cask that has been well sea- soned and matched (or scalded with hot water, and then matched) and stop it up close for two days or more, after which give it vent by a peg near the bunghole, and in two more days peg it up again. This wine will be fit for drinking in three months time, and will be very little inferior to French wine in flavour and quality, Of Improving vitiated Home Wines. Take a pint of water, into which raisins of the sun have been steeped, three gills of the best red or white wine, (according to the colour of the wine to be improved,) and a pint of clarified honey; boil them over a slow fire till the third part is evaporated, taking off the scum as fast as it rises, put the mixture when very hot, among the vitiated wine, and let it stand some time with the bung out, after which, put into a small linen bag, a little mace, cloves and nutmeg, hang it among the wine by a string from the bunghole four days. By this method, both new and old wine will not only be fined, but much improved different ways, it will recover them from their foulness and decay, and they will acquire an a- greeable smell and flavour. They may also be improved farther, by taking out the spice, and hanging in its place a small bag of white mustard seed bruised a little, the work will then be complete, and the wine excellent. ASSISTANT. 175 Of restoring Home Wines that are pricked. 1 st. Rack off your wines from the cask down to the lees into another cask, into which are the fresh lees of good wines, then take a pint of strong aquavitse, (whisky) scrape down into it half a pound of yellow bees wax, then heat the spirit over a strong fire, and melt the wax, (taking care that no drops go in the fire, as it may fire the 'whole,) after which dip a piece of cloth ; into it, and when a little dry, set it on fire with ’ a brimstone match, put it into the bunghole, and stop it up close, when the process is completed. » Of restoring Home Wines that are pricked. 2d. ; Take a fresh empty cask that has had the S, same kind of wine into it, which you are going to rack, match It well, and rack off your wine into it, adding to every 5 gallons, 1 ounce of oyster powder, ('See Oyster Powder,) and four drams bay salt, stir it well about with a rumaging staff | and let it stand till it is fine, which will be in a few days; then rack it off into another cask ■j which has been matched and fumigated, and if l the lees of good wine of the same kind can be | got to mix into it, it will improve it much. Add f likewise a pint of brandy or good whisky to every 1 five gallons, which will add to its strength and s vinosity. ^ Note 1st Neglect not the properly matching ( and preparing of the casks, as in a great measure, supon this the durability of the wine depends, this receipt will do for all home made wines. Note 2d.—Pricked wine, signifies wine that is fittle touched with acid or sourness. 176 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of,keeping Home Winesfrom turning sour. Itf. Melt a pound of lead, put it into fair water, then put it into the cask among the wine, pretty warm, and stop it up close, which will prevent its turning sour. Note.—Although this receipt may have the effect, it is pernicious to the health, and hurtful to the constitution, and even poisonous. Of keeping Home Wines from turning sour. 2

OF SPIRITS. The term spirit was formerly applied by Che- mists, to all vegetable substances collected by distillation; and they were distinguished into three principal kinds, viz. inflamable alchol or ardant spirits, acid spirits, and alkaline spirits. In the first class were included, not only the product known by the common name of spirit of wine, but the light volatile oils, ethers, and the aromatic principal. But the word spirit is now almost exclusively confined to alchol; and the : other substances arranged under the above classes, are distinguished respectively, by their peculiar ■ names, without a reference to their being separated from other bodies by distillation. IS© SPIRIT dealer’s , The term alchol can only be applied strictly to the pure spirit attainable by distillation, and the subsequent rectification from all liquids in a state of venous fermentation, and from none but such as are susceptable of it. But the term is now commonly used to signify this spirit more or less imperfectly freed from water, in the state in which it is usually met with in the shops; and which, by being first obtained from the juice of the grape, was long distinguished by the name of spirit of wine; but at present it is chiefly extracted from grain or molasses in Europe, and from the juice of the sugar cane in the West Indies, and in the deluted state in which it occurs in trade, constitute the chief basis of all the different spirituous liquors, called rum, gin, brandy, arack, whisky, and cordials under whatever name, and however variously denominated and disguis- ed. As I mean to treat only of the spirituous liquors generally made use of in this country, I shall take them as they come in order, and lay down, in a simple and easy manner, how they ought to be managed with propriety, and to the best advantage, both for the seller and the buyer. Of Rum. Rum is obtained from the juice of the sugar cane in the West Indies, and the spirit is highly impregnated with its essential oil, which 1 believe is the principal cause of its being held in such high estimation in this country; and it is IVom this particular flavour, that it differs from w bat we simply call sugar spirit; the only cause ASSISTANT. 181 that can be assigned for the high flavour of rum, is by a great deal of the new juice, and even parts of the cane itself, being often fermented in the liquor, or mashed solution, of which the rum is prepared. It is my opinion, that it is from this that rum derives its flavour, viz. from the cane itself. There are some that are of a different opinion, and suppose that the oily flavour of the rum proceeds from the large quantities of fat used in the boiling of the sugar. There is one thing clear, that this fat would give a stinking disagreeable flavour to the spirit distilled from the liquor or 1 wash got from our refining sugar-houses; but it [ is nothing like the flavour of rum, from which it | may be plainly seen, is the effect of the natural l flavour of the cane. Great quantities of rum are made at Jamaica, Barbadoes, Antigua, Dominica, Nevis, St. Kitts, and other places, (but that from Jamaica is reck- I oned the best, and the consumption for it is : greater than all the others) where the sugar cane is cultivated; and the process of making it is ; shortly thus. When a sufficient quantity of the materials is ^collected together into the mashing tub, water is then added to bring the mash to a proper con- , sistence for fermentation, which is done in the , common method. Formerly, at the beginning ;of the distilling season, the fermentation went .non very slowly, on account of the deficiency of yeast or some other ferment, as a substitute to .i.make it work: after this, they by degrees pro- .inured sufficient quantities from that which rose 182 SPIRIT DEALER’S to the head of the liquor in the course of the operation, by which they were able afterwards to ferment and make their rum with more expedition, and in very large quantities. But any delay of this kind seldom or never now takes place, as large quantities of yeast is exported from this country, by which they generally hare a constant supply, which to the planters must be highly advantageous. When the fermentation is completed, and the wash brought to a due degree of acidity, the distillation is carried on in the common way, and the spirit is made up proof, but often it is reduced or made to a much greater degree of strength, approaching nearly to spirit of wine or alcohol; after which, it receives the name of double-distilled rum, in which state I would advise the buyer to make his purchase; for example, if a puncheon of rum be purchased, which is 35 gallons over-proof, the duty must be paid for the said over-proof, and if 35 gallons of water be added, it will reduce the same to saleable proof, by which you have an additional 35 gallons of rum, by only paying the duty. The best state for keeping rum, is certainly that of alcohol or rectified spirits, as it would be » contained in one-half the bulk it usually is—it would be more convenient for exportation and other uses, and could easily be let down to the common proof strength when necessary, and for the making of punch, I think it would serve much better; the taste would be better, and the strength could always be regulated to a ASSISTANT. 183 greater degree of exactness than in the custo- mary way. I am astonished that the business of rectifying rum is not paid more attention to, and more nicely managed; for in the distillation there is a large portion of the oil brought over, which is often very disagreeable, and the rum must be | suffered to lie by a long time, so that it may j soften and mellow before it can be used. Where- 1 as, if it were well rectified, and the oil prevented i from mixing with the spirits, the product would be a fine light clear spirit, only slightly impregnated with the oil, its flavour would be much ' less, and consequently much more agreeable to jj the palate. In this state it would nearly resem- | ble arrack, for by mixing a small quantity of it * with any tasteless spirit, it will be a very near ; resemblance to arrack in flavour. When rum is newly distilled, it is as clear as whisky distilled from malt in Scotland. The I casks into which it is brought into this country, ; give it part of the colour we generally see it | have, for they are generally sent to the West Indies full of porter, and return full of rum, i which is generally esteemed the best flavoured, | for its age, of any that comes to this country. I S have stood upon the quay at Greenock, and from among 100 casks of rum which I saw l sampled by the excise officers, I could not ob- ) serve six of the same colour, which I believe is i the case at all times, and may be owing to I the newness of the casks, by some of them I being more fired in the inside than others, for it seldom occurs, that rum put into an old cask, 184. SPIRIT DEALER’S has any tinge or colour at all, but perfectly clear and transparent. A dealer in rum may bond any quantity he pleases into his Majesty’s bond cellars, for one whole year, but when the year is expired, the duty must be paid, (except indulgence be granted) else the rum is liable to be sold by the excise, for that purpose. Even this indulgence is very much in the favour of the dealers, as by only giving bond for the whole amount of the duty they may have credit for twelve months, and also accommodation for their rum casks, which might be an incumbrance otherwise. Of reducing and improving Rum. Suppose you purchase a puncheon of rum which contains 130 gallons, and it is the strength of 26 gallons over-proof, or 20 per cent.; take 26 gallons of good old brown or pale porter, 2£ pounds of sugar-candy, £ pound of green tea, (or tea leaves after being used) boil three quarts of water, and when it is cold, powder your sugar, and mix it and the tea leaves a- mong the water; stir the whole well together into a can, then pour the mixture, porter and all, into your rum; stir the whole about with a rumaging staff, and leave the bung a little slack for two days, after which, bung it up, and in four days it will become fine and bright, and require no more fining. It will not only become fine and bright by this process, but the liquor will lose the fiery taste, become more mellow and palatable; and besides, there will ASSISTANT. 185 be a gain of 5 per cent, or nearly 6J gallons of rum, by the addition of the porter, which will do more than compensate for the expense of the ingredients and trouble; and by trying it with the hydrometer, it will be found to be nearly 6J gallons over-proof; after which, it may be reduced with water, down to any strength that may be wanted. Note.—There is one thing necessary to be attended to in the reducing of all kinds of foreign spirits, viz. the water used must be boiled and let stand till it is cold, this has the effect of soft- ening the water, and takes away the raw harsh disagreeable taste which otherwise the spirits made up with it would have; indeed, in reducing home spirits, I would recommend this method also; at any rate, if this is not done, I would recommend a little quick lime put into a cask of water, and after it is settled and the scum on the top blown off, use it in reducing spirits. Of making up Rum to any price. It is necessary that rum should be had at different prices to suit customers, as some may | ask for it at one price, and some at another; ! the seller, therefore, should have a knowledge how to mix it up properly, so as not to reduce the strength too much, and at the same time be no loser upon the price he proposes to sell |l it at. Rum may be reduced to any price that is wanted, by mixing it up with molasses or sugar 186 SPIRIT DEALER’S spirit, (for malt spirit will not do) spirit of wine and water, according to the following method. Of making 3 Gallons Rum, at IQs. per Gallon. Gal. qt. pt. gil. £ s. 01 5 0 0 sugarrum, atspirit, 18s. atper 10s. gall, is is - 0111 7 6 0 0115 0 1 spiritwater, of the wine, filling is up. - - ———0 0 9 =£1 19 9 Price5 0of the0 mixture0 gallons is rum, -at 16s. - is - - £'21199 8 O The gain upon the compound mixture is £0 8 5 Note.—For part of the water in filling up, I would recommend the grounds or sediments of porter and strong beer, as they are excellent for improving its flavour; and although the beer and porter may be a little hard, touching upon the acid, it is none'the worse, as it rather increases its vinous quality. The reason is plain why the porter and strong beer is good to be mixed with | spirits, viz, that the spirit contained in the porter and beer incorporates with the spirits with which it is mixed, and increases it both in quantity and quality, while at the same time the water contained in the porter and beer, reduces ! the spirit in the common way, but mellows and softens it more by the softness it acquires in the process of brewing. ASSISTANT. 187 Of making 3 Gallons of Rum, at 135. per Gallon. Gal.1 qt.0 pt.0 gil.0 rum, at 17s. 6d. per gallon, is 0£ 17s. ».6 01 0 0 02 molassspirit of spirit, wine, atis 10s. is- -- 0O' 101 06 0 3 12 water, the filling up. =£19 0 Price3 0of the0 mixture0 gallons is rum, -at 13s. -is -- =£119 19 O0 The gain upon the compound mixture is - £0 10 0 Of making 3 Gallons of Rum at 10s. per Gallon. Gal.0 qt.2 pt.0 gill.0 rum, at 17s. per gall, is 0£ 8s. n.6 01 20 0 02 sugarspirit ofspirit, wine, at is10s. is 0 1516 0 0 3 12 water, filling up. £15 0 Price3 0of the0 mixtureO gallons is rum, - at 10s.- is -- =£115 10 O0 The gain upon the compound mixture is - £0 5 0 Of making 3 Gallons Rum, at 8s. per Gallon. Gal.0 qt.110 pt. gil. rum, at 16s. per gall, is -060£ s. n. 012 0 010 2 molassspirit of spirit, wine, atis 8s. is - - - 0 1316 0 0 3 12 water, the filling up =£10— 6 Price3 0of the0 mixture0 gallons is rum, -at 8s.- is - - =£110 4 06 The gain upon the compound mixture is £0 3 6 188 SPIRIT DEALER’S Note—By the foregoing method, rum bought at any price, can be made up and reduced, so as to sell it at any other price, and at the same time kept up by the mixture to the proper degree of strength and spirit necessary. A number of dealers may spurn at the idea of mixing up their rum in this way, but if they will not, another will; and unless they purchase it from the first hand, or from bond, it is generally made up as above before they receive it, and in the original state, the price is so high, that few would purchase it. Rum is much easier adulterated with sugar and molass spirits, than any other foreign liquor, and not so easily discovered, even by ordinary judges. Of making Rum carry a Bead. It is the natural consequence of reducing or lowering rum, that it will not carry so good a bead after, as might be wished for, (which is greatly looked to among dealers,) and although it may be no better of the bead, yet, when it is tried by a dealer, it looks much better; and it is only by this that many judge of the quality and strength of their spirits. To effect this, for a puncheon of rum, take 3 or 3J pounds of clarified honey, (pure honey;) beat it up in a can or any convenient vessel with a little of your rum until it be properly mixed, pour it into the puncheon, and stir it well about. By this process, your rum will not only carry a bead, but it will greatly improve the flavour of the liquor. Note.—Some drop a little alum into the cask, ASSISTANT. 189 to cause it to carry a bead, but I do not approve of this to any foreign liquor. Should your rum require to be a little deeper of the colour, that can be regulated as you please, by putting a little colouring into the puncheon (but not too much at a time) and by trying it in a good clear glass, you will easily see when it is the colour required. OJ talcing the blackness off" Rum. It sometimes occurs that there will be a certain blackness in rum, occasioned by the touch of iron, which may be either in or about the cask; which, although it may not be injurious to the health, makes the liquor look a considerable deal worse; this effect may be remedied by the following simple process: viz. for a puncheon, take half a gallon of good skimmed milk, and about the same quantity of clean black e^rth, mix these together with two or three gallons of the rum, and after stirring them well together, empty the whole into the puncheon, and stir it well about with the rumaging staff, then bung it up again, and in the course of twelve days it will become fine and bright. Note When going through this process, the puncheon should be on the stillage, or in any other position, so that it may not be stirred to I raise the sediments before the liquor is racked off. Also, if there is a similar blackness uponbran- ■dy, it is taken off in the same manner; and if rum requires to be filtered, it is done after the i same method as other spirits. (See Filtration, Filtering Cask and Filtering Funnel.) 190 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of Colouring Spirits. Rum, brandy, and all other spirits, are nearly coloured in the same way, and owes its rise to the observations made on foreign rum and brandies. Any quantity of rum or brandy that has acquired by age a great degree of mellowness and softness, and is fully ripe, will be observed at the same time to have received from some cause or other, a yellowish brown colour, which is much esteemed, and hence the distillers in this country have endeavoured to imitate it, in such spirits as are intended to pass for French brandy or Jamaica rum. To effect this, a great variety of experiments have been made on various substances, in order to find out a sure method of imitating this colour to perfection; for reds, the syrup of rose leaves, poppy leaves, turnsole, cochineal, the juices of cherries, raspberries, mulberries and blackberries, logwood, sugar and treacle; and for yellows or straw colour, saffron, turmeric and yellow sanders have been used. But in order to imitate the colouring of rum and brandies properly, it is first necessary to know from whence the French brandies and Jamaica rum acquire their colour, for until this be found out, it is in vain to attempt a proper imitation, for although we may hit upon the colour exactly, which task is not’ very difficult, the spirits will not stand experiments that may be tried upon it, unless the colour in both be produced in the same way and from the same ingredients. Considering this to be the case, it is only necessary to find out how and from what in- ASSISTANT. 191 gredient, these foreign liquors acquire these beautiful colours which we often see them have. I have observed already, that this colour is only found in such foreign spirits as have acquired a softness, mellowness and ripeness by age, from which it may be plainly seen, that the colour is not given it by the distiller, but has acquired it from the wood by long lying in the cask, and the liquor is nothing else than a diluted tincture of oak. The following experiment, made use of to prove whether French brandy and Jamaica rum be genuine or not, shows plainly that the supposition is well founded. Of the Genuineness of French Brandy and Jamaica Rum. In order to prove whether these liquors be genuine or not, and that the colour arises from age in the cask, and not forced by syrups, take and pour into a glass of the liquor a few drops of a solution of calcined vitriol of iron, in a diluted spirit of sulphur, or any other mineral acid, and the whole turns of a blue colour, in the same manner as we make ink of the tincture of galls and vitriol. Since, therefore, these foreign spirits acquire their colour from the oak of the cask, the imitation may be made without difficulty, and that to perfection; for a small quantity of the oak wood shavings properly digested, (soaked,) will furnish us with a beautiful tincture, capable of giving the liquor any degree of colour required. 192 SPIRIT DEALER’S Note.—But at the same time it must be noticed that as the colour is extracted from the cask by the liquor, that is, spirit and water, or alcohol and water; in this case, both must be used in extracting the colour or tincture from the oak shavings, for each of these menstruums dissolves different parts of the wood, and consequently act their part in extracting the colour. Of making Wood Colouring. Take a sufficient quantity of oak shavings, and digest (steep) them in strong spirit of wine, and let also near the same quantity be digested (steeped) in water, and when both the liquors have acquired a strong tincture or colour from the oak, let both be poured off from the shavings into different vessels; also, let both be placed over a slow fire, and stirred gently until they grow into a syrup about the consistency of treacle; when in this state, let the two be mixed together, which may be done in this way; add a small quantity of loaf sugar reduced into a fine powder, and beat the whole well together. By this simple means, an excellent wood colouring may be obtained, which may be kept always ready at hand to be used as occasion may require. Of making Sugar Colouring. Next to wood colouring is that of sugar, and to make it, take any quantity of raw sugar, add to it a little water, and boil it over a gentle fire, till it becomes a thick syrup of a black colour, partak- ASSISTANT. 193 ing both of a sweet and luscious, but at the same time, a bitter taste, then add a little more water, (or I would prefer the tincture of logwood,) to bring it to a proper consistence, otherwise, when it is cold, it will become a hard substance, and would be inconvenient, but when the liquid is added, it may be kept in bottles for use. Of Treacle Colouring. Treacle may be used for colouring, and it gives the spirits a fine colour nearly resembling that of French brandy, but as its colour is but faint, a large quantity must be used; but although this be the case, it is attended with no bad consequences, for the spirit is in reality weakened by the addition of the treacle; yet the bubble proof, which is the general criterion spirits is known by, is greatly amended by the tenacity imparted to the liquor by it. This colouring does not only improve the bead, but imparts to the liquor a sweet or luscious taste and fulness in the mouth; these properties render it very a- greeable to the generality of common people, who in' some places consume a great quantity of these spirits. Note—A much smaller quantity of burnt sugar than of treacle will be sufficient for colouring the same quantity of spirits, and the taste is very different, for instead of that sweetness imparted by the treacle, the spirits receive from the burnt sugar a very agreeable and pleasant bitterness which recommends it to the higher orders, who are better judges, and are offended Q 194- spirit dealer’s with a too luscious spirit. Burnt sugar or treacle will nearly imitate the real colour of Jamaica rum or French brandy; but there will none of them succeed when put to the test by the vitri- olic solution, and spirit of sulphur. Of Catechu Colouring. Catechu may be taken as colouring itself, or mixed with a little cochineal; let either one or both of the ingredients be mixed with a small portion of the liquor to be coloured until the colouring matter be extracted, then filter it through fine cotton, and pour it among the liquor, when any tinge may be given it that is desired. Note.—Catechu is a brown astringent substance, formerly known by the name of japan earth, it is prepared from the wood of a species of a sensitive plant called the memosa catechu, and is imported into this country from Bombay and Bengal, that from Bombay is the redest and strongest of colour. It gives forth its colouring matter freely both to water and spirits. Rum is much easier adulterated with molass or sugar spirit than either gin or brandy, but it is not so easily imitated from home spirits, without any mixture of the foreign spirit, as Holland gin or French brandies are, therefore I would recommend in the imitating of rum, gin or brandy, to use in the compound a little of the foreign spirit, which would make the imitation more perfect, and it would not greatly enhanceits value; but in some cases this may be impossible, where ASSISTANT. 195 any of the foreign liquors cannot be found; and yet at the same time an imitation of rum, gin or brandy might be wished: for which reason I shall give a few receipts which may answer both ways, as may be seen meet according to circumstances. Of making Rum from Home Spirits. 1st. Take 2 quarts good sugar spirit, molass spirit or grain spirit whisky, 1 in 5 under proof, 2 ounces of the best malaga raisins bruised, 8 drams of the sweet spirit of nitre, mix them together, and add the tincture of catechu colouring, treacle colouring, sugar colouring, or wood colouring, as much as will make it to any tinge required, let the mixture stand four days, shaking it once every day, which will help it to incorporate, after which, filter it through fine cotton placed in a funnel, and then add 5 gills double Jamaica rum, and reduce it with water to any degree of strength under proof that may be wanted. Mote 1.—If it be thought proper, along with the ingredients put into the whisky, there may be put 2 gills of good old pale porter, (although a little stale or sour, it will be none the worse,) which will greatly improve and mellow its taste and flavour. To prevent mistakes which may be made by not exactly attending to the strength i of the spirits, I would recommend to add only t the one half of the nitre; and if it be thought that more will be needed, add it by two drams at a time, until the quantity is thought sufficient. 196 SPIRIT DEALER’S And if by mistake the spirits may be overre- duced, add a little of the spirit of wine, which will bring it to its proper strength again. Of making Rum from Home Spirits. 2d. Take 5 gallons good sugar, molass, or grain spirit whisky, at any of the strengths from bead 22 to 25, 1 ounce of the dulcified spirit of nitre," 1 pound of prunes bruised, 1 ounce of the oil of sweet almonds, and catechu, treacle, sugar or wood colouring, requisite to make the tinge wanted, let the whole steep twenty-four hours, then filter through fine cotton placed in the mouth of a large funnel, when it will be fine and fit for use. Note.—The reason why sugar, molass or grain whisky is best for any imitation of foreign liquors is, that they have no particular flavour of their own, provided they be properly distilled, con. sequently the ingredients has not to kill any particular flavour before they produce the flavour wanted. Of making Rum from Home Spirits. 3d. Mix together J ounce sweet nitre, 2 ounces sweet almonds, ounces bitter almonds, \ pound Muscatel raisins bruised, 1 gill rum flavour, ^ gill rum colouring, 3 gills Jamaica rum, 2 ounces orris root, add to the ingredients a pint of the spirits to be flavoured, and let the whole stand 24> hours, then filter through fine cotton, and add to the mixture clear spirits of a good strength, until the spirits receive the de- ASSISTANT. 197 gree of flavour that is wanted, or add the mixture to the spirits. Note.—Rum flavour or essential oil of rum can only be procured in the distillation, when the liquor must be distilled over a slow fire, and the oil separated from the spirits by the separating glass, used by chemists. That which comes over first is strongest and best, what comes over after, being more coarse, rancid and resinous. A small quantity of this oil will flavour a large quantity of spirits, but if it cannot be got, a little of the best double distilled rum will nearly answer the same purpose. Rum flavour may be found in some of the chemists or apothecaries shops, but it is rare. Of making up a Phial for imitating Rum. 1st. Take 1 gill best double distilled rum, rum flavour, or essential oil of rum, put it into a phial; also ^ gill spirit of wine, into which 4 drams bruised Malaga raisins, 4 drams spirit of nitre, 4 drams oil of sweet almonds, 1 ounce prunes, have been mixed and steeped 24 hours; squezee out and filter the spirit of wine, and mix it with the double distilled rum or rum flavour; add colouring, so that it may be very dark—a few drops of this will flavour and colour a gill of whisky. Note—The half of the quantity may be made, or less, by dividing the ingredients in equal proportion; or it may be increased. Q 3 198 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of making up a Phial for imitating Bum. 2d. Put into a phial gill essential oil of rum, and Steep and mix with | gill spirit of wine equal parts of Malaga raisins, sweet almonds and prunes, as many as it will cover; in 24 hours strain the wine spirit and put it into a clean phial: put into another phial a small quantity of dulcified spirit of nitre, and into another a small quantity of very dark colouring. When the imitation is to be made, to a gill add 4 drops oil of rum, 2 drops spirit of wine, 1 drop spirit of nitre, and as many drops of colouring as will give it the tinge wanted. Note 1st.—By some it may be thought better to keep out the spirit of nitre altogether in imitating rum, as not necessary: at any rate, although a small quantity may give spirits an agreeable flavour, and cover their foul taste, yet too large a quantity will completely spoil the effect. Also it will be noticed that some spirits will require a larger quantity of some of the ingredients, according as they are in strength; but this must be attended to by the operator in the imitation; and by keeping each ingredient in a separate phial, any particular ingredient can be kept out, and if wanted, more of any particular ingredient can be added, according to . observed,the taste thator flavour foreign wished rum hasfor—for not all it the will same be flavour, but varies greatly according to how it was distilled, its after management, and age; so when rum is to be imitated from whisky, the ASSISTANT. 199 flavour may be varied according to the variety and quality of the ingredients put in, &c. Note 2d.—There may be a variety of little incidents that may occur in the management of rum, which in the course of practice it is unnecessary to mention, as every one must know their propriety, viz. when bottling rum every one knows that the bottles must be clean, as the alcohol would loose the filth, and thereby the spirit would become foul, slimy, and mucilaginous; and although the spirits were genuine, any vintner or spirit dealer would be ashamed of their appearance, &c. Note 'id.—At a chemical lecture, delivered in Glasgow, it was asserted by the lecturer, and he endeavoured to prove, that by shutting the eyes and stopping the nose, and so confounding these organs of sense; if a glass of rum, gin or brandy were presented to the person so blind- folded, he could not make any distinction, nor tell of which liquor he had drunk, but would be convinced, though all the three glasses were given him, one after another, that the liquor was still the same': for my part I can hardly say that the experiment is complete, but it is in part—this may be the reason that spirit dealers, in trying spirits, prefer smelling to tasting; but I leave the experiment to those who choose to make it for their own curiosity, &c. Of GIN. Gin or Geneva is principally the manufacture of Holland, from whence it derives its name, 200 SPIRIT DEALER’S and from thence large quantities are shipped to different quarters of the world. The Dutch distillers make the best gin from a spirit drawn from wheat, mixed with a third or fourth part of malted barley, and twice rectified over with juniper berries, but in general rye meal is used instead of wheat. Indeed there is another thing which contributes to make Holland gin superior to any other, the distillers often use French brandy, instead of malt spirit, and they pay so much regard to the quality of their water, that many of them send vessels to fetch water from the Meuse direct for the purpose, and the whole use the clearest and softest river water that can be got. It is the common practice in England, in the making of gin, to add oil of turpentine in the proportion of two ounces to 10 gallons of raw spirit, with three handfulls of bay salt, and draw off till the faints begin to rise. This is the manner in which our English Geneva is made; and it is astonishing how so great quantities are consumed—as it is no way pleasant to the taste; and not only that, but highly injurious to the constitution. If our distillers were careful in distilling and rectifying their malt spirit, and not mixing it with pernicious ingredients, they might make Geneva equal to that made by the Dutch, provided it were kept to a proper age; for not only gin, but every other spirituous liquor, contracts a softness and mellowness by age, which it is impossible to imitate by art. ASSISTANT. 201 There was formerly sold in the apothecaries shops a spirituous water, distilled from juniper, which the common people were fond of as a dram. The distillers seeing this, they supplanted the a- pothecaries, and made and sold it under the name of Geneva; for a considerable time they made it pretty good, until they adopted the abominable practice of using oil of turpentine, instead of juniper berries. The following method used by some distillers and rectifiers, who use juniper berries in the making of gin, is the best to preserve the flavour of the berries, and prevent them from contracting any ill smell. As soon as the berries are gathered, put them into casks or jars, and cover them over with spirit of wine, or any strong spirit: by this method the berries are well preserved, without any danger of contracting an ill smell; and not only this, but the spirits will extract greater part of their essential oil, in which their virtue wholly consists, and consequently the berries themselves will be rendered of little value. But it will be noticed, that if the berries are preserved in this manner, there should only be put into each cask, or jar, the quantity to be used at one charge of the still, and both the spirits and berries are put into the still together. By this process the berries will be finely preserved, without any loss either of the essential oil or the spirits made use of to preserve them. Note.—Juniper berries are well known, they are about the size of a pea; they wither and wrinkle in the drying, and are usually covered 202 SPIRIT DEALER'S with a bluish dust, when fresh. For the purposes of rectification, they should be chosen fresh, plump, full of pulp, and of a strong taste fi and smell. They are usually imported from Germany, although we have plenty of the trees j in Scotland and England: but in Britain the trees are but small, scarce ever exceeding five or six feet. The juniper shrub is male and female, the male produces in April and May small ! buds full of farina, which flies or dusts upon | the female. The female produces nothing but ; berries which do not ripen till the second year, . but do not fall off immediately; and it is nothing uncommon to see the berries of three different years upon the tree or shrub at one time. Of the management of Gin. Gin is worse to manage than any other fo- ( reign liquor, and when imported into this coun- t try, it is generally one to ten or 10 per cent, over proof; and when it is to be lowered, or mixed with British spirits, they should be clear bright spirits without any flavour of their own, as that would greatly destroy the flavour of the 11 gin. I would prefer sugar spirit if that could be * got, or spirit extracted from crab apples or f cyder, and in reducing, boiled water should be 11 used. There are many who draw off the liquor ■l from the store cask, and mix, lower and reduce ^ it in small quantities as they sell it out; but I do a not approve of this way, as it will be more foul a and ropy, and not having perhaps a proper con- * veniency for filtering so often as this way would 1 ASSISTANT. 203 require, if there be any blackness upon the gin, it is not so easily taken off, neither can the flavour of it so easily be improved. Of lowering and reducing Gin. To lower and reduce gin, it must be done upon the very same plan as that in the lowering and reducing of rum, (See the Tables for mixing and reducing rum at any certain price from 16s. to 8s.) with spirits free of flavour. Put into the water (which must be boiled) when it is cold, a piece of clean and white quicklime, and stir it well about; when it is settled, pour off the water from the lime and put the water among the gin, then stir it well about with a rumaging staff for six minutes, which will give it time to incorporate together; should your gin be ropy or foul, it must be filtered. (See Fil- tration.) Of tainted Gin. When gin is said to be tainted, it signifies that it has acquired some particular taste besides what it ought to have; when this is the case, itake a little alum and boil it in soft water until It be dissolved, and add to it a small quantity of the subcarbonat of potash, (salt of tartar,) and when it is nearly cold, put it among the gin and stir it with a staff five or six minutes. Four Dunces of salt of tartar and a pound of alum, ^vill be sufficient for a cask, although it be pretty much tainted or by-tasted, but those who have it in this way, must judge a little of themelves flow much will be necessary. 204 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of fining Gin. 1st. To fine gin without filtering, take the whites and shells of a dozen or even more new laid eggs, break them small, beat and whisk them •well together, put them among the gin, stir it ' well, when in a short time it will fine the liquor, and make it clear and transparent. Ofifining Gin. 2d. Take a little water and boil into it 2 ounces of alum for half an hour, then add to it in small quantities at a time, one ounce of the subcarbonat of potash, (salt of tartar,) and when it is cooled down to lukewarm, pour it into the cask, and stir it well about for six minutes. Note.—In this case it must not be stopped up close till it is fine, when it may be bunged tight; also gin may be fined by filtration. Of talcing the blackness off Gin. If gin be black of the colour by the touch of iron or any other way, take a quart of skim milk fora cask, and two ounces of isinglass dissolved, and pour it into the liquor, this will carry the blackness down, and make it fine and clear. iVote.-The blackness is taken off before the ingredients of the two foregoing receipts are put in- to it. Of improving the flavour of Gin. If gin is wanted to have a particular flavour, or to improve the flavour that it has, put into ASSISTANT. 205 ( the cask a small quantity of rose water, or elder flower water, and give the liquor a stirring for * about four minutes, this will greatly improve its ; flavour and make it pleasant to the palate. , Note.—About the size of a walnut of white ginger will give it a sharp taste, and apparent : acquisition of strength. It should be observed carefully to keep your | spirits of a proper strength, not under the strength of one in six under proof, for if they chance by ; carelessness to be let too low, they may be seiz- ; ed. But allowing you should chance to reduce ; your spirits too low by mistake or otherwise, takeout a small quantity of your spirits, and add ; spirit of wine a proper quantity, to bring it to a proper strength without increasing your stock, as an increase of stock might make it liable to be seized also. Of distilling ten gallons of Gin. Take proof spirits, ten gallons; water, four gal- I' Ions ; and juniper berries, three pounds. Draw off by# a gentle fire till the faints begin to rise, after which reduce the liquor to any degree of strength required, with water that is boiled and ; turned cold, when it may be managed according to the foregoing receipts. Note.—Among distillers those goods which ;are made up proof, are called by the name of ‘Royal Geneva; for the common sort is much below proof, ten gallons of spirit being sufficient jfor fifteen gallons of Geneva. it 206 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of making t'menty gallons of Gin as in Eng- land. ls£. Take of proof spirits, 17 gallons, li pennyweights of the oil of vitriol, 1 pennyweight of the oil of turpentine, pennyweights of the oil of juniper berries, pennyweights of the oil of almonds, 3 gills spirit of wine, 1 pint of lime water, 5 pounds of sugar, then add 2 gallons, 3 quarts, 1 gill, water; let the mixture remain in the cask six days, turning it round once every day, then filter, when the liquor will be fit for use. Note 1st—By increasing or diminishing all the ingredients in equal proportion, any quantity ; can be made. Also, the oils of juniper berries and turpentine may be increased or diminished according to the flavour most liked by the con- j sumers. The foregoing receipt may be of great advantage to vintners and spirit dealers, as it may, if properly managed, make them proficient in the making a very good home gin, and practice will show them where any deviation or improvement in the flavour may be made. Of killing the Oils. As the oils would swim upon the top, it is i necessary that the ingredients be properly prepared, and the oils killed; to effect this, put the oils in a mortar, with a few lumps of loaf sugar, and a little subcarbonat of potash, (salt of tartar,) beat and rub the mixture up ( with a pestle, and add in small quantities half a gill of spirit of wine, beat and rub it again with the pestle until no appearance of the oil be left, | ASSISTANT. 207 put it into a proper vessel with the remaindei of the spirit of wine and lime water, stir the whole well with a stick, put the sugar into about two gallons of as soft water as can be procured, which has been boiled and nearly cold, and if any scum rises, take it clean off, put the mixture so prepared into the cask, and stir it well, and when fine it will be fit for use. Note 3d.—Gin thus made is fined by the receipt for fining 2d. Of making Lime Water. To make lime water, take 4 or 5 pounds of . quick or unslaked lime, and put it into a proper tI| vessel with a sufficient quantity of water ; when it is slaked or dissolved, add to it two gallons of ; water, and stir the whole well about, after it is cold and settled it is fit for using. Of making five gallons of Gin. 2d. To 5 gallons bead 24, add 1 ounce sweet nitre, 8 drams oil of juniper, 8 drams white ginger, jghake the mixture, let it stand two days, and if necessary at the end of that period, filter, when it will be fit for use. Of making Gin. 3d. To 2 quarts whisky, bead 23, add 1 quart of jrater, £ gill spirit of wine, 100 drops oil of juniper, about the size of a walnut of pounded i ilum, and 1 ounce of the dulcified spirit of nitre, i et the whole stand 7 days, after which filter it . fiirough fine cotton, when it will be fit for use. 20S SPIRIT DEALER’S Of making Gin. Uh. For ten gallons of whisky, bead 22, tike £ peck of juniper berries, put them among the liquor, with 2 ounces of white ginger, 3 ounces of the sweet spirit of nitre, and a handful of salt, 1 mix the whole together, bung it up tight, and bury the cask under ground, or keep it in a very damp cellar for six months, afterwards filter, when it will be fit for use, and may be reduced afterwards to any degree of strength required. Note Isf.—Gin made by the above receipt is excellent, and if the spirit dealer can lie out of his spirits for a little, the gin that will be produced by this process, will not be distinguished by judges from the best Holland Gin. Note ‘id.—By increasing or diminishing the ingredients in equal proportion, any quantity can be made, and if the spirit dealer be near the sea, about a quart of salt water will do equally well. This receipt was found out by the breaking in of the sea, upon a spirit cellar on the beach, which f staved some whisky casks, when the proprietor made the trial and found it to answer beyond his most sanguine expectations, for he thought by i a little of the salt water getting into the broken t casks, that the spirits was completely lost, and' the loss would be no greater although the ex- J periment did not succeed. Of making up a phial to imitate Gin. 1st. Take £ gill spirit of wine, 1 ounce oil of juni- s per, £ ounce of white ginger, 4 drams sweet It ASSISTANT. 209 spirit of nitre, mix them together, and let the whole steep 48 hours, filter through fine cotton, put it in a phial and stop it close for use; when using it add as many drops as will give it the flavour that is wanted. Of making up a phial to imitate Gin. Id. 1 Steep 1 ounce of white ginger into ^ gill of “ spirit of wine for three days, then filter, and put -i it into a clean phial; have another phial, and in I it a little of the essence of juniper, and another . containing sweet nitre. Add as many drops of \ the essence of juniper as is thought necessary to give the flavour, then a few drops of the wine i1 spirit into which the ginger was steeped, and also a few drops of the sweet nitre. If these ingre- | dients be properly apportioned to the quality and strength of the whisky, and not too much of either, an excellent imitation of gin may be made. Note 1st.—Instead of steeping the ginger in j spirit of wine, a tincture of ginger will be got prepared in the shops, but although this is the case, a little of the spirit of wine is necessary; and proper care must be taken not to put too much of either of the ingredients into the spirits, as it would completely spoil the effect, and render the 1 imitation abortive. Note 2d.—Gin may be also well imitated from s common whisky in this way; put into a bottle * any quantity of good clear spirit, without any | flavour of its own, strength 1 to 4, or 25per cent. add to it a little of the essence of juniper, white ginger powder, a few drops sweet nitre, a few R 3 210 SPIRIT dealer’s drops of the tincture of sassafras or sweet fennel, let the mixture stand a few days, then taste the liquor, and if it tastes too strong of any of the ingredients, increase the quantity of spirits, then add a little more of any particular ingredient that is wished to have the ascendency in the flavour, and which may be best liked, then filter through cap-paper or fine cotton placed in the mouth of a funnel. Note.—Instead of the essence of juniper, juniper berries, or juniper root may be used, which will have nearly the same effect. I presume what has been advanced upon gin will be a guide and help to the inexperienced, and it is only in practice that perfectness is to be expected. OF BRANDY. Brandy is a well known spirit, distilled from wine, and is much esteemed on account of its high flavour; there are many sorts of it, and it is very intoxicating; every country that produces wine grapes produces brandy; however, the quantity and quality produced in different countries differ very much, but the French brandies are universally acknowledged to be the best. The yearly export of brandies from France at one time was 25,000 tuns, an article sufficient to enrich a moderate country, and while the duty continued at £9 per tun, the English alone took 10 or 11,000 tuns off their hands, but when the duty rose to i?52 per tun, the importation greatly decreased, which, of course, must be advantageous to the English distillers. ASSISTANT. 211 Some wines are very proper for distillation, and others much less so; the wines of Provence and Languedoc afford a great deal of brandy by distillation, when they are taken in their full strength; those of Blois and Orleans afford still more; but the best brandies are produced from the wines of Cogniac and Andaye, yet notwithstanding they are least drunk in France; the wines of Burgundy and Champaign yield brandy of a fine flavour, but they yield a small quantity by distillation. In fact, although brandy may be extracted from wine, experience must tell us that there is a great difference in the grapes from which the wine is made, which must make a great difference in the quality of the brandy; for every soil, every climate, every kind of grape varies with regard to the quantity and quality of spirits extracted from them; there are some grapes that are only fit for eating, others for drying, such as those of Damascus, Corinth, Provence and Avig- non, which are not fit for the making of wine. Not only these places produce grapes unfit for producing large quantities of wine, but those of Spain, the Canaries, Alicant, Cyprus, St. Peres, Taguet, Grave and Hungary are similar, and yield very little brandy by distillation, and would, of course, cost the distiller a great deal more than he could sell it at. Indeed what i is drawn from these wines is very good at first, j; but afterwards it increases more in the aromatic principle, which does not suit every palate so ij; well. In the making of brandies, there would not be 212 SPIRIT DEALER’S so great a difference in their flavour and quality, if the strongest and best of the wines were taken for distillation. But this is not the case, for it is the weakest and lowest flavoured of the wines that are taken for the purpose of being distilled for the production of brandy, or such as is absolutely unfit for any other use. In France a very great quantity of brandies are distilled during the vintage, for all the poor grapes that prove unfit for wine are first gathered, their juice pressed out and fermented, and directly distilled into brandy, which takes off their hands their poor wines at once, and empties their casks for the reception of better. But it is a general practice of the wine maker not to distil any wine into brandy that will fetch any price as wine, for in this case, owing to the little trouble and other occurrences, the profits which arise are much greater than when distilled into brandy. What fully accounts for the large quantities of brandy made in France more than other countries, that lie in warmer climates, and are much better adapted to the production of grapes is, the large stock of small wines with which they are almost always over-stocked. But this is not the only cause of the large fund of brandies in France, for all the wines that turn eager, sharp or sour, is sent to the still for the purpose of being reduced into brandy; also all that they can neither export nor consume at home, which must be a very large quantity, is condemned to the still. The general method of distilling brandies in France need not here be described, as it differs ASSIST4-NT. 213 nothing from the practice generally followed by the distillers in this country, in the working from wash or molasses, nor are the French in the least, more cleanly or exact in their operations. Only there is one thing which they observe more particularly, that is, to throw a little of the natural unfermented lee into the still along with the wine, which is supposed to give their brandies the flavour for which it is so much ad- mired in other countries. I believe that many of our British spirits, with proper management, may be easily converted into brandy, that could hardly be distinguished from foreign brandies in many respects, provided the operations were exactly performed. And in particular, how far cyder, spirit of crab apples, or sugar spirit, may be made to resemble French brandies, I leave to those distillers whose curiosity may prompt them to make the experiment, and not follow them who will not deviate from the old beaten track, though they may have a fair prospect of having profit to themselves, satisfaction to their customers, and a lasting emolument for the good of their country. Brandy when imported into this country, is 1 to 10 over proof, but is generally reduced to 1 in 6 or 1 in 7 under proof, which may be done by the following rule: Rule.—Divide the quantity of over proof spirits by the strength, or over proof, and the quotient, (which is water) add to the original quantity of over proof spirit; the sum of both added together is proof spirits. 214 SPIRIT DEALER'S Suppose you purchase a puncheon of brandy, which contains 140 gallons, 1 to 10 over proof, how much water will be required to reduce it to proof, and to one in 6 and 1 in 7 onder proof? Example Isf. Over proof 1 to 10) 14014 gallons. Under proof 1 in 6, divided by 5)15430 galls, proof brandy. 184 4-5ths6 under gallons proof. 1 in Note.—To reduce it to 1 in 6 under proof, divide by 5; and if to 1 in 7, divide by 6, &c. So it will be seen that 140 gallons brandy, 1 to 10 over proof, will make 154 gallons proof; and 184f gallons, 1 in 6 under proof. Example 2d. Over proof 1 to 10)14014 gallons. Under proof 1 in 7, divide by 6)15425 gallons proof brandy. 179 gallonsproof. 1 in 7 under It will be seen 140 gallons, 1 to 10 over, proof, will produce 154 gallons proof, and 179 ! gallons 1 in 7 under proof. Also, it will be seen in the first example that it will take 14 gallons water to reduce 140 gallons, 1 to 10 over proof, to proof; and 30| gallons water to reduce proof to 1 in 6 under proof. And in the second example, it takes 14 gal- ASSISTANT. 215 Ions water to reduce 140 gallons 1 to 10 over proof, to proof; and 25 gallons water to reduce proof to 1 in 7 under proof, which is the strength generally sold by wholesale dealers. So it will be clearly seen that a puncheon of 140 gallons of brandy, 1 to 10 over proof, gains 34| gallons by reducing it to 1 in 6 under proof, which at £l, Is. 6d. amounts to £37,8s. 2|d.; and if reduced to 1 in 7 under proof, amounts to j£41, 18s. 6d.; and all without any adulteration with any British spirits, and not only that, but there may be a gain of two or three gallons in the gauge. It will, for the use of spirit dealers and vintners, no doubt be acceptable an example or two how to reduce brandy, so that it may be sold at any price, and still retain a proper degree of strength—the examples follow. Of making 3 Gallons of Brandy at 16s. per Gallon. Gal.0 qt.5 pt0 gfl.0 brandy at £1, 6s. per gallon, is £112 s. 6 01 0 0 01 molassspirit of spirit, wine, at is 10s. - per gallon,- -00 is 0 10 09 0 2 13 water the filling up. £2 3 3 Price3 0of the0 0mixture gallons is brandy at- 16s. pergallon,- is =£22 38 O3 The gain upon the compound is - - £0 4 9 Note.—It will be paid particular attention to in the reducing brandy, as well as any other foreign spirit, to use only whisky, or any other kind of spirits that has no particular flavour, or what is termed silent whisky, as by so doing you might spoil the flavour that the brandy 216 \ SPIRIT DEALER’S naturally has; for if it was once spoiled, it would be almost impossible to recover it again by any means whatever. Of making 3 Gallons of Brandy at Us. per Gallon Gal.IOOO qt. pt. gil. brandy at £1, Is. per gallon, is £1 s.1 d*0 0110 0 0 20 grainspirit ofwhisky, wine, atis 9s pergallon,- is 0 1116 3 0 3 12 W'ater, the filling up. £\ 13 9 Price3 0of the0 mixture0 gallons is brandy - at 14s- pergallon, -1139 is 2 2 0 The gain upon the compound, is - - £0 8 3 Of making 3 Gallons of Brandy at 12s. per Gallon Gal. qt. pt. gil. £ s. n. 0110 3 0 0 whiskybrandy at £\,10s perIs. pergallon, gallon, is is 0.150 12" 69 0 03 012 2 spiritwater, of the wine, filling is up. - - 0 16 £l 9 9 Price3 0of the0 mixture0 gallons is brandy- at 12s.- per gall,- is 191 16 O9 The gain upon the compound is £0 6 3 By attending to the above examples, no spirit dealer nor vintner can mistake in the reducing brandies, so that they may sell it at any price, not to come to any loss by the ingredients used in the reduction of any kind of spirits. The chief temptation for adulterating foreign spirits are inducements where the duties are high, and where there are various kinds ofapirits in plenty ASSISTANT. 217 to mix them, as malt, molasses, cyder and sugar spirits, with all which they are often sophis- ticated, and so dextrously, as frequently to escape all the ways of detection. Of making Brandy carry a Bead. Note 1.—The same means are used to make brandy carry a bead, as that used with rum, such as a mixture of honey, treacle, oil of almonds, sulphuric acid, (oil of vitriol,) &c. and the boiling and cooling of the water, are the principal means that can be resorted to. (See RumJ Of taking the blackness off Brandy. Note 2.—When brandy has any appearance of blackness, it is taken off in the same way, with skim milk, as with rum—perhaps more care may be taken in the management, and more time given to settle, as brandy is seldom or never made so dark of the colour as rum. (See RumJ Of Colouring Brandy. Note Zd.—Rum and brandy are coloured in the same way; and the same colouring used, only brandy does not require the colouring to be dark. (See Rum.^l Of the Genuineness of French Brandy. Note Uh.—The genuineness of French brandy is tried in the same way as rum, by a calcined 218 SPIRIT DEALER’S solution of vitriol of iron in a diluted spirit of sulphur. ("See Rum.^ Of Brandy Colouring. Note 5th.—Brandy is coloured with wood, sugar, treacle, catechu, &c. same as rum. (See RumJ Of talcing the ill Flavour off Brandy. If brandy should have acquired an unpleasant flavour, for 140 gallons take 10 pounds candy- sugar, and dissolve it in a little warm water, 10 pounds of prunes and bruise them well till all the stones be broken; put the candy, so dissolved, and the prunes among the brandy, and stir it well about till it be properly mixed, this will have the effect of greatly improving the flavour, and mellowing the brandy. T\ote.—To improve or make French brandy a little cheaper, without any adulteration with British spirits, mix it up with Sjianish brandies, which are a great deal cheaper, and the mixture will tend something to lessen the fiery taste which French brandies have when first made. Of Brandy Spirits. By the common method of rectifying spirits with alkaline salts, this destroys their vinosity, and in its stead introduces an urinous or lee taste, which is disagreeable, and it is absolutely necessary to substitute in its place some degree of ASSISTANT. 219 vinosity and spirit flavour. Multitudes of experiments have been performed, but none have succeeded so well as the spirit of nitre, either strong or dulcified, (sweetened) and which is used by most distillers and rectifiers, to give an agreeable vinosity and flavour to their spirits. In using nitre there is, however, several difficulties that occur, of which the principal is, its being apt to quit the liquor in a short time, by which it deprives the liquor of that vinosity which it is intended to give. To remove this difficulty and prevent the vinosity from quitting the liquor, it would be much better to use the dulcified spirit of nitre than the strong spirit, which will render the spirits much milder and softer. Of preparing the dulcified Spirit of Nitre. To prepare dulcified (sweet) spirit of nitre take equal parts of nitre and spirits of wine, and mix them together, and digest (soak them) by a fire in a gentle heat three or four days, when it is said to be dulcified. Note.— After a proper digestion, the spirit thus dulcified should be mixed with the spirits; by which means the vinosity will be intimately blended with the liquor, and for a considerable time will not be disposed to fly off. As I have mentioned in another place, no general rule can be given for the quantity of spirit requisite to he employed, because different proportions of it are necessary in different kinds of spirits, according to their different strengths. There is one thing therefore to be paid particular s 2 220 SPIRIT DEALER’S attention to, which is, that although a small quantity of it will give an agreeable vinosity and flavour, resembling brandy drawn from wines; yet, too large a quantity will cause a disagreeable flavour, and render the whole design abortive. Those who endeavour to cover the foul taste of spirits by large quantities of the dulcified spirit of nitre, will find themselves very much deceived, and the fraud discovered. The best and only method of imitating French brandy to perfection, is by the essential oil of wine, which is the very thing that gives brandies their peculiar flavour in the countries where it is made. There is one thing to be particularly attended to, in order even to use this essential oil to advantage, that is, a pure tasteless spirit must be procured, such as cyder spirit, raisin spirit, crab spirit, or sugar spirit. For it will not be expected that this oil should be able to give an agreeable flavour of French brandy to our fulsome malt spirit, already overcome with its own nauseous oil, or strongly impregnated with a lixivious taste from the alkaline salts used in the rectification. Of procuring the Oil of Wine. Take dry cakes of wine lees, such as is used by our hatters in the making of hats, dissolve them in eight times their weight of water, charge the still with the liquor, and let the whole be drawn off with a brisk fire, and separate the oil by a separating glass, such as that used by che- ASSISTANT. 221 mists. Thus, place the separating glass under the nose of the worm, and apply a common receiver to the spout of the separating glass, by this means the essential oil will swim on the top of the spirit, or rather low wine in the separating glass, and may be very easily preserved when the operation is finished. Having procured this essential oil of wine, it may be mixed with the purest spirits of wine or alcohol, by which means it may be preserved a long time, fully possessed of all its flavour and virtues, but without such management it will soon grow rancid, resinous and foul. When a pure insipid spirit and a fine essential oil of wine is procured, French brandies may be imitated to perfection with regard to flavour. It must however be adverted to, in order to make proper imitations, that the essential oil be drawn from the same kind of lees as the brandy to be imitated is procured from, viz. if it is intended to imitate Cogniac brandy, Cogniac lees must be used in the procuring oftheoil, and so of any other kind of brandy; for as different brandies have different flavours, and these flavours are entirely owing to the essential oil of the grape, it would be foolish to endeavour to imitate the flavour of Cogniac brandy with an essential oil procured from the lees of Bourdeaux wine, &c. When brandy flavour is well imitated by the essential oil being properly proportioned, there are still other difficulties to overcome. The flavour, though the essential part, is not the only one; the colour, the proof, and softness must s 3 222 SPIRIT DEALER’S also be regarded, before a spirit that perfectly resembles foreign brandy can be procured. With regard to the proof, it can easily be hit by using a spirit rectified above proof, which after being properly mixed with the essential oil of wine, may be let down to any degree of strength by cold water that has been boiled. And the softness may be obtained by distilling and rectifying the spirit with a gentle fire; and what is awanting of this softness and mellowness in the liquor, when first made, will be made up by time; for as I have noticed before, when treating of rum, it is time alone that gives this property to French brandies, for when first made, they are acrid, foul and fiery; but with regard to this and colouring, see Rum. Of imitating French Brandy from Home Spirits. To make one gallon, take 2 drams tincture japanica, and 5 drams of the dulcified spirit of nitre, and one gallon good whisky without flavour, mix the nitre and tincture with a little of the liquor, until it be incorporated, put the mixture among the rest of the liquor, stir or shake it well, and add the colouring, when it will nearly resemble French brandy. Of preparing Tincture Japanica. To prepare tincture japanica, take of the best English saffron, and dissolve it, £ ounce; mace bruised, J ounce; infuse them into | pint of brandy, until the whole tincture of the saffron is ASSISTANT. 223 extracted, which will be in about 8 days, then strain it through a linen cloth ; to the liquor so strained, add 1 ounce of the tartar japanica, finely powdered, then let it stand until the tincture is completely impregnated therewith, when it will be fit for use. Of Imitating French Brandy. ‘Id. Take 2 quarts pure whisky, 1 in 5 under proof, without any flavour, put into it 4 drams orris root, cut small; \ dram of cordamum seeds bruised; the stones of four ounces prunes, powdered; 8 drams sweet spirit of nitre; add the colouring, and filter the mixture, in four dap it will be fit for use. Oj Imitating French Brandy. 3d. To make 5 gallons brandy from whisky, take 5 gallons of clear spirit from molasses,-sugar or grain, put into it J pound orris root, let it steep 24 hours, and add to it 2 ounces dulcified spirit of nitre, 1 ounce tincture japanica, add colouring, as much as sufficient for the tinge wanted, filter through cotton or cap paper, when it will be fit for use. Of Imitating French Brandy, kth. Take one gallon silent whisky, add to it one ounce of the essential oil of wine, then colour it to the tinge wanted, and add a gill spirit of wine. 224. SPIRIT DEALER’S Of making up Phials to imitate French Brandy. Is#. Put into one phial | gill spirit of wine, into which orris root has been previously steeped 4< days, put into another phial 2 ounces sweet nitre, and into another very dark colouring. When the brandy is to be imitated, add a few drops spirit of wine, a few drops sweet nitre, and colouring as much as will give it the tinge wanted; a few drops of each will be sufficient for one gill whisky. Note.—Or one phial may serve for the nitre and spirit of wine, by mixing equal parts of spirit of wine and strong nitre. Of Imitating French Brandy. 2d. Put into a phial two third parts of a gill es- i sential oil of wine, one third gill spirit of wine or j alcohol, put as many drops among the spirits as will produce the degree ot flavour required, then add the proper quantity of colour, which will be easily known by giving it a shake. Note. 1st.—If it is thought proper, all the in- , gredients may be put into one phial; but I pre- for a phial for each, as more may be wanted of ; the one ingredient than the other, according to ! the strength and vinosity of the spirits used. Note 2d.—Aqua ammonia may be used for , improving the flavour of brandy, 5 or 6 drops for each bottle, which must be well shaken, in order that it may mix well and incorporate fully with the spirits. ASSISTANT. 225 I have pointed out various ways for the management and imitating of French brandy, which may, I trust, if properly attended to, prevent i spirit dealers from falling into any serious mistakes; and those who are desirous of improving upon the art, and persevering upon a rational j foundation, by which only improvements are to t be expected, for where the operations are car- : ried on in the same beaten tract, improvements ! are not to be expected, unless chance, without | any trouble, be kind enough to throw it in their ' way, which if they had followed any rational ; theory, would have led them easily to discover, fl and perhaps much more to their advantage. Note 3rf.—Brandy makes an excellent punch, I and we have an account of an extraordinaryr s punch bowl ordered to be made on the 25thr October, 1694*, by the Right Honourable Ed- ward Russel, when he was Captain-General, and Commander in Chief of His Majesty’s forces, in the Mediterranean sea. It was made in a fountain in the garden, in the middle of four walks, ! all covered over with lemon and orange trees, and in every walk was a table the whole length ; of the walk, covered over with collations, &c. In ^the fountain were the following ingredients, viz. 4* hogsheads of brandy, 8 hogsheads of water, 25,000 lemons, 20 gallons of lime juice, 1300 pound weight of fine Lisbon sugar, 5 pounds grated nutmegs, 300 toasted biscuits, and lastly a pipe of dry mountain Malaga. Near the fountain was erected a large canopy to keep off the ! rain; and there was built, on purpose, a little boat, wherein was a boy belonging to the fleet, 226 SPIRIT dealer’s who rowed round the fountain and filled the cups of the company, which in all probability amounted to 6000 men. OF ARRACK. Arrack is a spirituous liquor imported from the East Indies. It is chiefly manufactured at Ba- tavia, and at Goa upon the Malabar coast. It is a spirit extracted from the fermented juice of certain trees which are common to that country, particularly those of the cocoa, palm tree, &c. There are various accounts of the process and materials used in the making of it; and whatever difference may arise in these accounts, it seems to be from the general appellation of arrack being given in the East Indies to every description of spirituous liquor; and also from the disposition which the Dutch so eminently possess of endeavouring to keep their manufacturing processes to themselves. But it is certain, that the flavours of the several kinds of arrack differ as much from each other, as those of brandy, rum, gin, barleycorn spirits, or any other of the spirituous liquors in Europe. The Chinese distil a spirit from rice, which they distinguish by the name of sam shu, and of which considerable quantities are exported to Batavia, for the purpose, as it is said, of being converted into arrack by a second distillation; although perhaps it may be consumed among the numerous Chinese who inhabit that city. The common Batavian arrack appears to be distilled from a mixture of the wort or infusion of rice and toddy, after both have ASSISTANT. 227 passed through the vinous process. And to these, according to circumstances, it appears they add other ingredients, particularly spices. The process of arrack making is performed in the following manner; the person who is to procure the vegetable liquor, provides himself with as many small earthen pots, (with bellies and necks, similar to our common glass bottles,) as may be thought sufficient to hold the quantity wanted, a number of these bottles he ties to his girdle, or to a belt across his shoulders, and climbs up the trunk of the cocoa tree; having reached the boughs of the tree, he cuts off with a knife certain small buds, or buttons, when he applies to the wound one of the bottles, and fastens it to the bough with a string. He proceeds in this manner until he has fixed his whole number of bottles, each bottle serves as a receiver to the juice distilling from the wound to which it is applied. It is general to perform this operation in the evening, as a greater quantity of juice flows from the tree in the night than the day. The bottles are taken off next morning, and the liquor emptied into a vessel for the purpose, where it ferments spontaneously. Then as soon as the fermentation is completed, the li- ' quor is thrown into the still and drawn off, this is termed low wine, but it is so poor, dilute, and watery, that it must be rectified or drawn over again, in order to produce that weak kind of proof spirit we generally see it; for although | it appears bubble-proof, it rarely contains more i than a sixth, and often only an eighth part of alcohol, all the rest being merely water, which 228 SPIRIT DEALER’S might be supplied from any common spring. The reason why arrack appears bubble-proof, when in reality so far below what is meant by proof, is not such a mystery as it appears at first sight; for this kind of proof is entirely owing to a certain tenacity of the constituent parts of the liquor, or to the particular property of the oil incorporated in the spirit. Of European spirits, the common malt spirit before rectification resembles arrack the most. Arrack is reckoned less intoxicating than rum or brandy, but this difference arises from its being very seldom of equal strength. Of specimens of arrack procured from different channels, the specific gravity being 965, water being 1000, it was found that proof spirit, or half spirit half water, lowered or reduced with about three- fourths of its bulk of water, would have been of the same strength as this arrack. It would seem no very difficult matter to imitate arrack in this country. And it seems the whole difficulty lies in procuring a pure insipid spirit, having no particular taste, for I think it would be foolish to attempt it with our common malt spirit, and with regard to the flavouring of arrack, it may be well imitated by some essential or volatile oils which may be easily procured. Spirits extracted from refined sugar to which 1 some spices may be added according to the flavour wanted, in the second drawing off or doubling, will hardly be known from that imported from Batavia, and in my opinion, it is much stronger and better both in taste and flavour.

i ASSISTANT. 229 Since arrack is a spirit extracted from the juice of the cocoa and palm-tree in India, I think that British arrack may be made nearly to imitate it by fermenting and distilling the juices of the birch, cherry, sycamore and plane-trees, extracted by tapping, fSee Tapping birch, mapple, &c. page 152) would produce a spirit equal in strength and flavour to arrack imported from Batavia. It sometimes happens that the casks into which arrack is imported may be decayed, by which the liquor may touch the nails or other iron, and dissolves part of it, and at the same time extracts the resinous parts of the oak, by which means the liquor in the cask acquires an inky colour. When the liquor has contracted this colour, a large quantity of new or skimmed milk should be put into the casks, and the whole stirred together ; by this means the inky colour will be absorbed in the milk, and fall with it to the bottom, so that the greater part of it may be drawn off fine, and the remainder may be made equally fine by being filtered in the common way. {See Filtration.) By 6 Geo. I. Cap. 21, arrack is not to be sold in Great Britain but in warehouses entered as directed upon forfeiture of liquor, casks, &c. OF DISTILLATION IN GENERAL. Distillation is the art of separating or drawing off spirituous, aqueous, (watery,) and olea» ginous parts of a mixed body from the grosser, by means of fire, and condensing them again by cold. The art is of infinite extent, whatever the 230 SPIRIT DEALER’S whole earth produces, flowers, plants, odoriferous drugs, &c. are its objects, and come under its cognizance, but we generally confine it to liquids of taste and smell, and to the simple and spirituous waters of aromatic and vulnerary plants; and with regard to its utility I need say nothing, as there will be sufficient proofs in the sequel, and I assert that it is not unworthy of the attention and countenance of the learned. The art of distillation of brandy and other spirits, was first brought into Europe by the Moors of Spain, about the years 1150; they learned it of the African Moors, who had it from the Egyptians, and the Egyptians are said .o have practised it in the reign of Dioclesian. Dis- tilling was also known in Britain in the 12th century, and in Ireland about the year 1590, although it was unknown to the ancient Greeks and Romans. The malt distillery is a most profitable and extensive branch of trade, and the whole art is to convert fermented malt liquors into a clear inflammable spirit, which may either be sold for use in the common state of proof strength, or rectified into that pure spirit usually sold under the name of spirits of wine, or made into compound cordial waters, by being distilled again from herbs and other ingredients. The malt distiller always gives his spirit a single rectification, in order to purify it a little, and make it up to proof; but in this state it is not reckoned fit for internal uses, but serves to be distilled in- to Geneva, and the ordinary compound strong waters for the common people. ASSISTANT. 231 We may form some notion of the immense quantity of ardent spirits consumed in Great Britain, from this circumstance, that at one time in the City of Edinburgh and its environs, besides the great quantity which was supposed to be smuggled, it was computed that above 2000 private stills were constantly employed in preparing molass spirit. The common people got so universally into the habit of drinking this spirit, that when a porter or labourer was seen reeling along the street, the common saying was, he has got molassed; and we may suppose that at this period the consumpt is still greater. The duties charged upon spirituous liquors, constitute a very essential part of the public revenue* also the tax upon the English distillery in 1786, amounted to i‘4;21,193, Is. 3£d. and in 1794., to £680,573, 16s. 8d. The tax upon malt and Scotch distilleries included, amounted to £900,000, Os. 9d. These taxes have increased every year since that period, when the tax upon British spirits consumed in England alone in 1822, amounted to the enormous sum of £2,682,083 sterling. It would take volumes wrote upon distillation to follow out every minutiae of the process, and render a reason for every thing that may occur in the course of practice, which here would be impracticable and unnecessary; I shall therefore ' give the principal outlines of the process, and leave the rest to the artist to learn by experience in the course of going through the operation, as it is practice alone that will make him 232 SPIRIT DEALER’S By the distillation of spirits, is to be understood the art by which all inflammable spirits, such as rum, brandy, gin, arrack and whisky are procured from vegetable substances by a previous fermentation, and the after treatment of the fermented liquor by the hot still, with its worm, refrigatory flake-stand or cooler. But there is one thing must be noticed, viz. that is impossible to extract vinous spirits from any vegetable substance, without a previous fermentation; and not only this, but often brewing is necessary, which is neither more nor less than extracting a tincture from some vegetable substance, or dissolving it in hot water, by which means it becomes proper for vinous fermentation, (which is treated of in another place.) This tincture, or as it is termed by distillers, the wash, being brought to a lukewarm state in the tubs or backs, or about 54? degrees Fahrenheit’s thermometer, more or less according to the temperature of the weather. A proper quantity of good yeast, (barm) is added, which if hard, should be broke in small pieces and gently stirred with the hand in a little of the lukewarm liquor, when it is put into the backs or fermenting tubs, and covered up with cloths to keep it at a proper degree of warmth. The liquor or wash being thus set to work, secured in a proper degree of warmth, and de- fended by cloths from a too free intercourse with the external air, nature will then finish the process, and render the liquor fit for the still. It is a common thing with distillers to increase the quantity of spirit, and give it a particular ASSISTANT. 233 flavour or improve its vinosity, to add a variety of things to the wash during the process of fermentation, such assails, acids, aromatics,oils,&c. Rich vegetables, or juices, such, as treacle and honey, if fermented, will be greatly improved by adding at the beginning of the operation, a small quantity of fine acids, such as oil of sulphur, spirit of salt, juice of lemons, a watery solution of tartar; these will greatly improve the vinous acidity of the liquor, but will not increase the quantity of spirit, which is performed by aromatics and oils; for all pungent aromatics increase the quantity of spirit, and improve the quality and flavour; but when they are used, the fermentation should be performed in close vessels, and if a large quantity be added, it must not be added all at once, lest the oiliness of the ingredient should check the operation; but if the flavour is the prindpal intention of the additions, they should not be added till the fermentation is nearly finished. By the foregoing method a very considerable quantity of any essential vegetable oil may be converted into a large quantity of inflammable spirit. The best method of adding the oil, is to rub it in a mortar with sugar, by which means the tenacity of it will be destroyed, and the whole will readily incorporate and ferment along with the liquor. Those who distil spirits would do well to consider these observations attentively, for their own interests, as by them they may form a basis for an advantageous method of increasing the quantity of spirits, and at the same time improve their quality and flavour. 234 SPIRIT DEALER’S With regard to cleansing the vessels, I shall only mention here that no soap or other oily, greasy and unctuous matters should be used, as it might check the fermentation, and for the same reason all alkaline lees should be avoided. But lime-water may be employed for this purpose, which will have no ill effect. Care should also be had that no remains of yeast or former fermented matter remain about the vessels, as that would act upon whatever should afterwards be put into them, and will not without great difficulty be perfectly cured and sweetened. There is one thing to be noticed in the process of vinous fermentation, and which is highly advantageous to it, that is, the silent, slow, and impreceptible fermentation is the most perfect and advantageous for the production of a larger quantity of spirit, than that which is too violent. The perfecting of the operation may be known by the ceasing of the hissing, bubbling noise, when the ear is applied to the vessel or fermenting tun, the clearness of the liquor and pungent sharpness on the tongue, which will be about the third day; that these, properties may be obtained, and be well fitted to produce a perfectly vinous spirit by distillation, it should be suffered to stand, if possible, in a place some what cooler than that in which it was fermented, this gives it time to deposit its gross lees, and become perfectly transparent, vinous and fragrant, in which state it should be committed to the still, and the spirit obtained will not only exceed that obtained in the common way, in quantity, but also in pungency, fragrance, and vinosity. ASSISTANT. 235 It will now be necessary to explain shortly the principles of distillation, and the proper method of extracting the spirituous parts of bodies from the wash thus fermented. In this state the wash, from malt or other materials, is committed to the still, of which, including the head, it should at least occupy three fourths, and distilled with a gentle heat as long as any spirit comes over, which will be till about half the wash is consumed; and the more closely that the distillation is conducted, the less will the product be contaminated with essential oil, and the less danger will there be of empyreuma, or taste and smell of the fire. A great saving of time and fuel, however, may be obtained by making the still very broad and shallow, and contriving a free exit for the steam. This has been carried to such a pitch in Scotland, that a Still measuring 43 gallons, and containing 16 gallons of wash, has been charged and worked no ; less than 480 times in the space of 24 hours; this would be incredible, were it not established : by unquestionable evidence. The cause of this extraordinary expedition ii might arise by the manner in which the excise laws for Scotland were framed, which rendered it advantageous to the distillers to have stills of a small capacity, (although there are various ' distilleries throughout the country upon a large ! scale) which they could work very quickly, their i; ingenuity was excited to contriving means of ef- 1 feeling this, when it was no doubt obvious to 1 them that a shallow still with a broad bottom, i completely exposed to a strong heat, would best 236 SPIRIT DEALER’S answer the purpose, and this was brought to such perfection, that a still could be charged and wrought off 480 times, as above. The first product drawn from the still is termed by the distillers low wines or aqua vitce, which is again to be returned to the still, and subjected to distillation; the latter portions of what comes over is called faints, which is set apart to put into the wash still, at some future operation. Thus a large portion of the aqueous or watery part is left behind: and this second product is termed raw spirit, which being distilled again is called rectified spirit. It is calcul- ated that 100 gallons of malt corn wash will not produce above 18 or 20 gallons of spirit, containing 60 parts of alcohol to 50 of water; of cyder, from 13 to 15 gallons; and of molasses from 20 to 22 gallons. The best wines in France yield from 20 to 25 gallons excellent brandy from 100 gallons wash: but in all these cases when the fermentation is stopped before it be completed, the produce will be much less, as it depends in a great measure upon its being properly conducted for the production of a greater quantity of spirit. The Dutch, who carry on a great trade in malt spirit, only distil the wash into low wines, and then to full proof spirit; they directly make it into Geneva, or else send it as it is to Germany, Guinea, and the East Indies, for the Dutch have little notion of our rectification: and it is on this account that the malt spirit of England is in general so much more in esteem. ASSISTANT. 237 Having given a short sketch of the process of distillation, and the different products obtained, . until the raw spirit is produced, I shall now lay down the different parts of the process, as it occurs in the course of the operation, until it is completed, and an ardent and pure alcoholic spirit obtained. Queries put and answered by Henricus Van 1 Wyngaerden, a Dutchman, concerning the Dis- tillation of malt spirits. The following queries, with their answers, ' from their simplicity, concerning the processes of distillation, I have laid down simply as I re-" ij ceived them, as I think that they are highly in- teresting to those who wish a sketch of its outlines. Q. 1. Should any hops be put to the worts or wash used in distillation ? A. No; hops are not used. IQ. 2. Whether should the worts or wash be ; boiled, and how long, and should they be allowed to cool as long, before the yeast (or barm) be I added, as if the wash was for ale or beer? 1 A. The first and strongest wort may be boiled an hour, the second two or three hours, ac- ' cording to the strength or weakness of it. But the greater part of the distillers are against boiling, because, say they, the spirits fly off. The wort or wash must cool, and then the barm must be added the same as for ale or beer. Q. 3. Should the yeast (or barm) be beat down during the fermentation? K 238 SPIRIT DEALER’S A. The yest (or barm) should not be beat down during the fermentation, unless it be working over the vat, which should be covered to prevent the spirits from flying off. Q. 4. How long should the liquor or 'wash be fermented, and should the fermentation be allowed to cease entirely, and should the wash have any degree of acidity before committed to the still ? A. The fermentation should be allowed to continue until it be fully perfected. Heat or cold will make the time longer or shorter. But the fermentation should not be continued till the fermentation fall to the bottom. When the wort is fermented, let the sweetness go off, and it may be allowed to grow a little hard (acid) before it be committed to the still; but the acidity should not be much, else it would yield a less quantity of spirits in proportion. Q. 5. If the liquor or wash be put to the still before the fermentation entirely ceases, should the barm be put in along with the fermenting wash; or if the wash is allowed to stand after fermentation until the barm subside spontaneously, should the lees and bottoms be mixed with the liquor, and all thrown into the still together ? A. Put the barm and lees into the still along with the liquor, but if it is thought the lees are too thick, mix them with water or faints, which is better; this will prevent the liquor from burning. Q. 6. If the lees be distilled by themselves, might it not be proper to dilute and dissolve them ASSISTANT. 239 with a sufficient quanity of warm water, and then ferment it before committing to the still ? A. Yes, if the lees are distilled by themselves, they should be dissolved in warm water, and then fermented, as it loses the texture j of the faces, which beforfe might be too com- | pact and Viscid to yield all their volatile and : spirituous parts. ; Q. 7. What quantity of proof spirits will a ' certain quantity of low wines ordinarily produce? A. Commonly a fourth part, but it depends 5 upon the strength of the wash. Q. 8. Is it a fault among distillers to let any of the faints run in among the strong liquor, and Iwhat effects has it, if so is the case ? A. If the faints are allowed to run among the pure goods they render them foul, and give them a disagreeable taste, and are long in fining, as • the faints are of a bluish and sometimes of a ' whitish colour. Q. 9. Should the faints bekept by themselves, i j or mixed with any other ingredient, before com- i: mitted to the still ? i; A. Faints are not to be distilled by them- i | selves, but mixed with other wash, as they r: would not be worth the labour and expense. ; Q. 10. How long should the faints be allowed 1 to run? A. The faints should be allowed to run as i long as they will take fire from a candle and burn on the still head, what remains after, is to k go as faints to the next distillation. Q. 11. How may it be known when spirits are iq. proof? 240 SPIRIT DEALER’S A. To know proof, the best method is to measure out a certain quantity, and at a temperate heat set it on fire, and when it will no longer burn, if the remainder is half as much as that measured out, this is perfect proof; what is above or below the measure, is above or below proof; also, there is a mathematical instrument in England, for this purpose, which I cannot describe. Q. 12. I have heard it said that when spirits are to be redistilled or rectified, that it is commonly the case to put to the spirit one-third of water to make it come off clearer, and increase the quantity from the still without faints—is this method right? A. The method is correct; in this case the water is better to be added to the spirits than the faints are; but observe that the spirits run perfectly slow through the worm, else they will be blue. Q. 13. How full should the still be charged with the fermented wash, when distilling for low wines, and how full when redistilling for proof spirits; and when these proof spirits are rectified how full should the still be charged when no water is mixed, and how full when one- third of water is mixed ? A. When distilling for low wines, if the still is large, fill it w'ithin 12 or 14 inches of the top; and if for rectifying, within 10 or 12 ipches. Q. 14. I am informed that it is a practice to throw into the still along with the wash, when first charged, about 6 ounces of bay salt to e- very 5 gallons of spirits, by which the goods come off cleaner, and also some grains are used ASSISTANT. 241 | to heat the liquor, will these causes produce | these effects, and what grains are meant ? J. In Holland, none put salt; in Britain, I some do and some not; I do not say against it. ; The grains are the grains of paradise, they no doubt make the liquor hot, but add nothing to ! the proof, they are added with a bad intention. A handful of wheat will give an agreeable fla- 5 vour to the spirits. « Q. 15. When the wash is committed to the still, should a good fire be put to it first, and make it boil before the nose is luted to the worm, that a part of the gas may go off without decoction? A. This method is not good, because a great deal of the finest spirit flies off. This is not done in Holland, some do it here. Q. 16. How should goods be fined, and what is best for the purpose, how are they used and I proportioned? A. For spirits made foul by unctuous casks, r or otherwise, take the whites of 8 eggs to a |! hogshead of spirits, and a spoonful of common !salt, well beat together till the salt be quite dissolved, then mix with them about a quart of spirits; mix this with the spirits, when they will settle to the bottom. Spirits that are to be kept on hand are to be mixed with a greater quantity, to prevent the spirits from turning blue. Close up the bungholes, to prevent the escape of the spirit. ' Q. 17. Should the low wines before redistil- it lation, and the proof spirits before rectification. Hi be suffered to lie by some time to enrich them- 242 SPIRIT DEALER’S selves, but especially the low wines, and how long will it be necessary to keep them so ? A. They are the better that they lie some time before they be redistilled; they may lie from 3 weeks to 2 months, &c. &c. Of cleansing the Still. Before the wash is committed to the common still, the body of it should be properly cleansed, that no taste or smell of any of the materials used at a former distillation may remain, and after it is cleansed, a few pieces of white soap thinly sliced down, should be put in, which will be found beneficial in the running off. The same care must be taken with regard to the head, it must be thoroughly cleansed and dried, for it sometimes happens that a small quantity of w-a- ter may remain in the rim, which will render the spirits foul, and by endeavouring to separate it from the clear spirits, some of the most volatile part of the spirit will be lost. The Dutch are very careful in keeping their stills clean, and so regular and nice in the management of their fires, that though they use no artifice on this head, they very rarely have the misfortune to spoil their goods. And when once an accident happens in a still, they are extremely careful to scrape, scrub and scour off the remains of the burnt matter, otherwise they find the same accident very liable to happen in the the same place. ASSISTANT. 243 Of charging the Still. When the still is properly cleansed, the wash is to be put into it, which must be about the consistency of good brown stout or porter, the body of the still must only be about three-fourths full, else by not giving proper room above the wash for the vapour to rise, it might by its force cause the still fly the head, and do a great deal of damage; and by coming in contact with the fire, might set the still-house on fire, which, if it once takes place, there is no possibility of putting it out again, and whatever liquors are in the house, will of course be lost, besides the endangering of lives. Of luting the Still. By luting the still, is meant the closing of the joints or joinings, through which the vapour or spirits might transpire. There are different ways of luting, but a composition of ashes well sifted and soaked in water, clay, and a kind of paste made of meal or starch will answer well, also strong brown paper maybe used. If the heat detaches the luting, or if it becomes moist, have moreluting in readiness, and immediately apply it; but if the ! transpiration be so violent that a fresh lute cannot be immediately applied, clap round the place where the transpiration takes place, a wet cloth, and keep it firm and tight till the spirit has taken its pfoper course, but if all efforts should fail, jând the transpiration increase, so that fear be Ijjentertained of a conflagration, remove the re- jjceiver, and put out the fire immediately. ^ Good luting is the surest method of prevent- 244 SPIRIT DEALER’S ing accidents, and where all transpiration is prevented, nothing is to fear but the too great fierceness of the fire, which, by proper attention, may be easily regulated. Of working off the Still. After the still is charged and luted in a proper manner, the regulating of the fire is the next thing to be attended to, as too great heat causes the materials burn at the bottom of the still, which spoils xthe liquor, and gives it an em- blingpyreumatic burnt tobacco.taste, or aTo smell prevent something this, and resem- any other accident that may occur, it will be noticed that the hardest wood generally makes the quick- est fire, such as oak, beech, elm, &c. The white woods, as the ash, the poplar, the willow and the birch, make a milder fire, this holds good also of the coal, consequently the nature of the wood or coals must determine the fire, and the action of this must be proportioned to the effect intended to be produced by it, viz. the capacity of the still, the matters to be distilled, and their quantity. It is evident that the larger the still, the more fire is necessary, and the surest way to regulate the fire, is by the materials, according as they are more or less disposed to yield their spirits, &c. To do this, the operator must not leave the still, but attentively listen to what passes within when the fire begins to heat it. When the ebullition becomes too violent the fire must be lessened, either by taking out some fuel, or covering it with ashes or sand. ASSISTANT. 215 It requires a long experience in the several cases, before the distiller can acquire a com- petent knowledge in this important point, in regulating the fire. Nor is it possible to determine the degree of fire from the quantity of fuel; judgment alone, assisted by experience, must supply the defect, which notwithstanding of every rule laid down, is the only school-master. The fire being thus regulated, the spirit rises into the head, and passes by the beak into the worm, and from the worm rims into the receiver. In Holland, the malt distillers work all their wash thick with the whole body of meal among it, yet they have seldom the misfortune to scorch, except now and then in the depth of winter. Of the Worm Tub, or Cooler. The cooler or worm tub is a very essential part in the distillation of ardent spirits, and should be something in proportion to the size of the still, for which the following may in some measure | serve as a rule, viz. that the capacity of the still to that of the cooler or worm tub be as 8 to 16. The worm is placed into the centre of the ■ cooler, and the upper end of it luted to the nose or beak of the still, when it goes round with a number of circumvolutions, all the way to the ;; bottom of the tub or cooler, where at the extremity of the worm there is a beak projecting I beyond the side of the worm tub or cooler, for ; the purpose of conveying the spirits into the re- ; ceiver. There is another thing which is to be particu- 246 SPIRIT DEALER’S larly attended to, and observed with care, which is, that the water in the worm-tub be kept cool. This may be effected by placing a pipe in the middle of the tub or cooler, of a sufficient size for a run of water to cool the whole; let this pipe reach from the top almost to the bottom of the worm tub, (and although the run or fall in the pipe were considerably above the top of the cooler, so much the better) by this means cold water may, as often as is necessary, be conveyed to the bottom of the worm-tub, and the hot water forced over the sides of the tub, or which may be better, conveyed away by a pipe of sufficient size, placed near the top of the tub, to any convenient place for carrying away the water. Having every thing set, and properly arranged, after the still is charged and luted, the management of the fire is only to be attended to, until all the spirits are run off, and the watery part which remains in the still, called by distillers, the faints, begin to rise, when the receiver is to be removed. This first product or running off, is called low wines or singlings, which is again committed to the still. Of Faints, and their use. As I have observed before, the receiver is to be removed when the faints begin to rise, because if it is not removed, what comes over will give what is in the receiver, a disagreeable taste and smell, and if put among the rest of the liquor drawn off, will communicate it to the whole, and of course cause a loss which might easily be prevented. ASSISTANT. 247 However, it is not to be understood that these I faints are to be thrown away, nor the working of | the still immediately stopped, for they arefarfrom I being of no value, although they would cause | great loss, if allowed to run into the receiver, a- mong the more spirituous part of the goods. As soon, thetefore, as the liquor running olf, is ob- j served to change its clearness to a whitish blue : colour, remove the receiver, and place another ( under the nose of the worm, and continue the dis- 1 dilation as long as the liquor running from the [ worm is in any way spirituous, which may be . known by pouring a little of it upon the head of r the still, and applying a lighted candle to it. If r it is spirituous it will burn, if otherwise, it will not. !• When the faints will no longer burn on the g still head, put out the fire, and draw off the faints it into a cask for that purpose. And when from a > number of distillations a sufficient quantity of ■ > these faints are collected together, let the still be &P charged with them almost to the top, or put them e among the wash for another charge of the still; and throw into the still 3 or 4 pounds of salt, and , run them off as you would do any other charge, i as long as the spirit drawn off is of a sufficient ,p' strength. After which the receiver is to be remov- i&» ed, and the faints kept by themselves as formerly. The spirits thus extracted from the faints, will serve in several compositions, as well nearly as o other spirits, but they thould be used in the it making up of compounds, where, in the ingre- il|dients used, the flavour is predominant, such as is; aniseed water, which will entirely cover that fla- s vour which they may have aquired from other in- (t gredients. • 248 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of charging the Still. Id. When the low wines or singlings is run off, and the faints drawn away by a stop-cock or otherwise, the still is to be charged again with the low wines, and run off again in the same way as formerly, which is called doubling, and this product is called raw spirits, and if this raw spirit be committed to the still and run over again, it is called rectified spirit. Before the low wines is committed to the still, slice a small piece of white soap and put it into the still, and a handful or two of common salt, the one will help the proof of the spirit, and the other will make it of a fine clear steady colour; after these two ingredients, soap and salt are put into the still, charge it with the low wines, then lute it as before directed, and run it off by a slow steady fire; when this product is drawn off, or raw spirit, it is fit for sale, and may be reduced with water to any degree of strength that may be required. Of the different kinds of Distillation. Distillation is divided into three kinds, viz. per ascensum, per descensum and per latus. Dis- tillation per ascensum is when the fire applied to the still, causes the spirit to ascend; this is the most dbmmon, and almost the only kind used by distillers. The advantages which it possesses, consists in the facility with which the residues of the distillation may be come at. Distillation, per descensum, is when the fire is placed upon the mouth of the vessel, in which the herbs are contained, causes the ASSISTANT. 2*9 spirit to precipitate or fall to the bottom. This kind of distillation is seldom used but to extract essences, oils, &c. Distillation, per latus, or oblique distillation, is the simplest and most extensively used; a re- tort and a receiver are the fewest vessels that can be used; and where the heat is properly managed, every operation of the other methods may be performed in this way with great facility. This is the only kind of distillation used by chemists, and accordingly most of the improvemcn;s in distillation for philosophical purposes have been performed by this method. Of the remedies for Accidents in Distillation. As I have mentioned before that good luting is the only sure way of preventing accidents; yet notwithstanding of this being well performed, and the strictest attention paid to every part of the processes, it is impossible entirely to prevent accidents which -may occur in any of the particular kinds of distillation, therefore it will be important to point out some of the remedies which may be resorted to on these occasions. Courage and presence of mind are the most essential; fear only increases the misfortune. 1st. If the fire be too violent it must be covered, but not so as totally to prevent its action, as by this the process of distillation would be interrupted, and render it more difficult and less perfect. 2d. When by the smell the ingredients are discovered to be burning, the fire must be im- 250 SPIRIT DEALER’S mediately put out to prevent the whole charge of the still from being spoiled entirely, which if not done, would immediately be the consequence. 3d. If it so take place that the spirits should catch fire, the first thing is to unlute and take away the receiver immediately, stop the nose of the worm, and cover up the mouth of the receiver with wet cloths. The fire must be put out, and if the flame issue through the luting, the joints must be closed up with wet cloths, which, along with water, should never be a- wanting in a still-house. 4th. If after the junctiqns are closed, to prevent transpiration, if any thing be perceived a- miss, while the spirits are ascending, apply clay or any other wet composition to stop the aperture, and have always a wet cloth in readiness to stifle the flame, should the spirits take fire. 5th. Let it be observed, wherever a remedy is required, there must be no candle used, for the spirituous vapours easily take fire, and spread the flames to the vessels from whence they issue. 6th. If the flame has reached the still, the following precautions should be used. 7th. The operator must not approach the still without a wet cloth over his mouth and nostrils, it being immediate death to inhale the inflamed vapour. 8th. In hastening to stop any accident, be careful to approach the side opposite to that whither the air impells the flame, for without this precaution the operator may be involved in ASSISTANT. 251 it, and cannot, without the utmost difficulty, extricate himself from it. 9th. If, notwithstanding this precaution, the air should force the flame to your side, quit the place immediately, and do not return till its direction is changed, always keeping the wet cloth before your nose and mouth, and by another wet cloth close the crevices through which the spirits issue. 16th. Should the operator be covered with inflamed spirits, he must wrap himself up in a wet sheet, which should always be ready for that purpose. 11th. If the fire acquire such a head that it cannot be stopped, the receiver must be broke, and the still, if portable, thrown down; but none should approach it, especially those who are un acquainted with the business. 12th. If the case be desperate, like that of a large quantity of rectified spirit taking fire, if time will permit, the communication of the beak of the still with the receiver must be cut off, and be sure that no candle come near the receiver, as the danger would be too great to expose one’s self to the flames of a large charge, and the distiller’s safety is principally to be considered. Of cooling the Head of the Still. The necessity of cooling the head of the still must be obvious to every one who has the least knowledge of distillation, as it condenses the spirits, cools them, and causes them to flow 252 SPIRIT DEALER’S freely into the receiver, which, if the receiver were of glass, would be broken by the heat; also this cooling helps to prevent conflagration. The common still is not in such danger where the spirits has to pass through the worm and cooler to the receiver, as those who have the receiver luted to the nose of the still, but wet cloths is the only remedy for cooling the head of all kinds of stills or alembics, which must be applied frequently, when it may appear necessary. In practice there are three things to be particularly attended to, the first is, that by cooling the spirits it preserves the receiver, if of glass, and luted to the nose of the still, and ob- viates the accidents arising from their heat; and in the common still it is no less advantageous. The second is, that the spirits being kept of a moderate heat, the transpiration is less, and consequently the spirits procured by the operation have more taste, smell and fragrancy, than they would have had otherwise. For experience demonstrates that when the spirits flow hot into the receiver, however at- tentive the distiller may be to lute the joinings of the still and head, there will be a very sensible evaporation, which greatly depreciates the goodness of the liquor, especially in the distillation of simple waters. The third is, that the cooling of the liquor as it comes from the still, and the head, when necessary, is what principally contributes to the perfection of the operation, because the coolness of the head precipitates the phlegm, and in the ASSISTANT. 253 case of the heat of the fire turning too strong, and the boiling be too violent, if after taking a- way part of the fire, or covering it, the boiling should continue, the head may be cooled with a wet cloth, till the boiling ceases a little. As there is a necessity of cooling the still head; it will, no doubt, plainly appear, that what has been advanced cannot be too carefully observed, as the perfection of the distillation deserves the attention of all who study the op- perations of Nature. Of putting water into the Stillfor particular Dis- tillations. The principal advantages which attend putting water into the still are, first, to prevent the loss the distiller might incur, without using that precaution, as it will prevent any alteration in the liquor, produced by the process of distillation. For example, suppose a distiller should attempt to rectify spirits of wine, without putting water b into the still, it is evident that the action of the fire will consume part of it, which is entirely loss, because the same quantity of spirit cannot be [ procured from it, which might, had there been Sany thing to moderate the action of the fire, ! which preyed upon it and caused it to evaporate. , If liquors are impregnated with strong in- |;gredients, such as seeds, and the quantity put in be sufficient to absorb all the phlegm, a great 'quantity of spirit must be left in the still, or the •■ingredients will burn, and the spirits contract 254 SFiniT dealer’s an empyreumatic taste, which bad taste increases with the spirit as it increases in age. If no water be put into the still with the ingredients, the spirit will be rendered finer by it, and the fire, if ever so little too strong, will cause the ingredients to burn, and the spirits to contract an empyreuma or taste, and smell of fire, which would easily be prevented by this precaution. Water being mixed with the ingredients, is also a safeguard against accidents, and the ingredients are at once prevented from burning, and the spirit not at all weakened by it. For no sooner are the ingredients put in motion by the action of the fire than the spirits immediately ascend, and the liquor loses nothing of its quality, provided the receiver be removed as soon as the phlegm or watery part begins to rise. By thus putting water among the spirits into the still, the waste of spirjts is prevented, and the distiller loses nothing of his liquor; whereas, without water, the spirits by impregnating the materials, their quantity of course will be less. And with regard to the phlegm, or watery part, there is no difficulty in finding when it begins to ascend, the first drops being cloudy, and when it has continued dropping for some time, it is perceived by a milky colour at the bottom of the receiver. By attending to the above, the distiller is no loser with regard to the quality of his liquor, which is not at all weakened thereby, and it is attended with two capital advantages, viz. the ASSISTANT. 255 profit of the distiller and the perfection of the liquor. Note.—Water is only necessary where the liquor is impregnated with seeds, herbs, roots, &c. as in that case the liquor is more ready to burn, and contract a disagreeable taste and smell. | Of Distillation by the Sand Bath. Distillation by sand is performed in two dif- ‘ferent ways, first, by covering the fire with sand or ashes, and placing the still upon it. This [method is necessary and generally used in digestion, or the dissolving different substances, and the heat may therefore be taken at about 150 degrees; it is also used for the perfect rectification of spirits. The use of the sand is for inoderating the action of the fire, and is absolutely necessary when there is any reason to fear the matter contained in the bottom of the still will burn. Another method of sand distillation is to take the finest river sand, and after washing it thoroughly, put into the still as much as is Sufficient to cover it three fingers deep, after which the still is to be charged with the ingredients to be distilled. In certain cases, this i; serves instead of water, where the use of it would injure the ingredients, as in the distillation bf fine spirituous waters, impregnated with the T^romatic parts of flowers, the sand preventing iihe ingredients from burning. This method x 2 256 SPIRIT DEALER’S is necessary in distilling rectified spirits from seeds. After the operation by this method is finished, the still should be properly cleaned from the sand, that the taste and smell contained therein be not communicated to any other charge of different ingredients afterwards. Mote—The common still is used in the distillation of malt spirits, molass spirits, sugar spirits, and such like, but the two last methods are used in the distillation of herbs, rectification, &c. Of the Vapour Bath. In distilling by the vapour bath the still is to i be placed into a copper vessel full of water; near the bottom of the copper must be a small stand to support the still and keep it from the bottom. When the water begins to boil it disperses itself : round the sides, but if it were sitting on the ; bottom, the ingredients would be in danger of burning. Were this method of distillation as expeditious | as that performed on an open fire, no other ought to be used, because it is subject to no ; accidents; and at the same time the spirit dis- , tilled is much more fragrant and grateful. Note.—This method of distillation is used in I the distillation of sweet scented waters from 1 flowers, aromatic plants, &c. where neither water nor spirit ought to be mixed with them— nor ought it to be mixed with them. This mode of distillation is very expeditious and quick in its operation, and its operation ASSISTANT. 257 seems to be perfect and without danger; but sand must be placed at the bottom, that the liquor may not contract an ill taste from the copper. Of the Bodies proper for Distillation. The bodies proper for distillation are flowers, fruits, seeds, spices and aromatic plants. By distillation and digestion is drawn the colour and smell of flowers, simple waters and essences. Andfromfruitsweextract theircolpur, taste, &c. From aromatic plants is distilled spirits, essences, simple and compound waters. From spices are procured essences, or as the chemists term them, oils, perfumes, and also pure spirits. From seeds or berries are drawn simple waters, pure spirits; and from some, such as annise, fennel, and juniper, oils. The colour of flowers is extracted by infusion, and likewise by digestion in brandy, whisky or spirit of wine; the smell is extracted by distillation of the simple water with brandy, whisky, or spirit of wine. What is extracted of the colour of flowers by infusion in water, by a gentle heat, or by [ digestion in brandy, whisky, or spirit of wine, is called by distillers the tincture of flowers. Also the colour of fruits is extracted in the I same manner, either by infusion or digestion— ; their taste is also procured by the same process. But there is one thing to be particularly ob- 258 SPIRIT DEALER’S served, that the time of these operations must be limited, otherwise the fruit after fermentation will render it acid. Also, the taste is extracted by distillation in alcohol. By the still, from aromatic plants, are extracted pure spirits, odours, and simple waters. But these are done by different methods. The first, by water or spirit only; the second, by rectified spirit, which will give them the greatest perfection they are capable of. Likewise the plants* themselves, with their flowers, may also be distilled, which is still better, and a process which is easily performed. From spices are drawn spirits, and oily or spirituous quintessences. The spirits are drawn by brandy, whisky, or spirit of wine, with very little water—the oils are distilled, per decensum, and the spirituous quintessences by pounding the spices, and after infusing them in spirit of wine, pouring it gently off. From seeds are extracted simple waters, spirits, and oils. Some distillers, from what they consider frugality, distil seeds with water, but their liquors are not so good as those distilled with spirits. When oils are distilled from seeds they should be distilled by the vapour bath, &c. Of what is procured by Distillation. By distillation is procured, spirit, essence, simple waters, and phlegm. Spirits are very difficult to be defined, but they may be considered to be the most volatile and subtile parts of a body. ASSISTANT. 259 All bodies have spirits, more or less, contained in them, without exception. These parts are an ignited substance, liable to be separated by fire, and consequently, by their own nature disposed to a violent motion. The volatile particles are more or less disposed to separate themselves, as the bodies are more or less porous, or abound with a greater or lesser quantity of oil. By the term essence may be understood the oleaginous or oily parts of a body. An essential oil is found in all bodies, being one of their constituent principles. It will be observed in all distillations, spirit of wine excepted, a soft substance floating on the phlegm; this substance is oil, which we call essence, and this is what is endeavoured to be extracted. Simple waters, or those distilled from plants, flowers, &c. without the help of water, common spirit, or spirit of wine; are commonly odoriferous, containing the odour of the body from whence it is extracted, and even exceeds the body itself in smell and odour, by being concentrated into small space. ; Phlegm is the aqueous or watery particles of i;bodies, opposed to spirits; but whether active • or passive, in their principle, I leave it to chemists to determine. I It is of the utmost importance for dijstillers to |;be acquainted with its nature, for phlegm may [be mistaken for the white clouded drops which jfirst fall into the receiver, when the still begins [to work. But it will be observed, that these are often the most spirituous particles of the matter 260 SPIRIT DEALER’S contained in the still, and should, of course, be preserved: what may often lead to this mistake is that when the head of the still is not properly cleansed and wiped, some humidity, dampness, or matter of a former distillation, may remain, which if it had been properly cleaned, the first drops would be as clear and bright as any during the course of the operation. There is one thing which deserves particular attention, viz. that in bodies that have been digested, fermented, or dissolved by means of heat or otherwise, the spirituous particles ascend first; whereas if the still be charged with materials not digested or fermented, the phlegm or watery part ascends before the spirits—when properly considered, the reason of this will appear plain and natural. In substances, before digested and fermented, the action of the fire no sooner causes the matter in the still to boil, than the spirits, being the most volatile parts, detach themselves and ascend into the head of the still. But when the matter to be distilled has not undergone a proper digestion, the spirits being entangled in the phlegm, are less disposed to ascend until the phlegm or watery part itself separates, and gives them room to fly upwards. The phlegm, being aqueous or watery, rises first; but more particularly this is observable in the distillation of spices. However, I am in- clined to think that were the operation performed in a still whose head was high above the surface of the matters with which the still was charged, that the watery parts would, on ac- ASSISTANT. count of their gravity, not ascend high enough to come over the helm into he worm, but fall back again, and by that means leave the spirits at liberty to ascend. But in the common still, by means of the head being low, this of the aqueous rising first, always happens. I trust that experience will be the test to try whether what I have advanced be correct or not; and if it is, those who put it in practice will reap the benefit. Another thing I have also to add, and which will not be unacceptable to the curious, and altho’ it should appear strange, yet experience will convince them of the truth of it. That is, in mixed charges, consisting of flowers, fruits, and aromatic plants, put into the still without a previous digestion, (and fermentation, if the matter requires it) the spirits of the flowers ascend first, and contract nothing of the smell or taste of the fruits and plants; next, after the ascension of the spirits of the flowers, those of the fruits ascend, not in the least impregnated with the taste or smell either of the flowers or plants; and lastly, the spirits of the plants distil and ascend n6 less neat than the former. Another observation to be made with respect to aromatic herbs, is, that whether they are or are not digested, whether the spirits or phlegm ascend first, the spirits contain very little of the taste or smell of the plants or herbs from whence they were extracted, and to help this, a greater or lesser quantity of the phlegm should be added to the spirits, in order to give the spirits drawn, the taste and aromatic odour of the plants, as the phlegm contains the greatest quantity of both. 262 SPIRIT DEALER’S This hint, if attended to, may be of great use to those who are in the habit of distilling herbs and aromatic plants. As I have often repeated the term digestion, it will be necessary to point out its advantages, and the necessity of using it in several circumstances. Substances may be said to be in digestion when they are infused in any menstruum or fluid over a very slow fire. This preparation is often necessary in distillation, for this reason, it tends to open the bodies, and thereby free the spirits from their confinements, whereby they are the more freely enabled to ascend. Cold digestions or infusions are the best, as those made by fire or in any hot fluid diminish the quality of the goods, as by it the most volatile part will be lost. To procure essences the proper way, submit the bodies to digestion, as it is absolutely necessary for extracting the spirits and essences of spices. Note—In extracting essence, &c., digestion must only be resorted to, as fermentation would spoil the effect. Of the Season properfor distilling Herbs, &>c. All kinds of flowers must be distilled in their proper seasons—and the season for distilling each flower is when it is in its greatest vigour, which is not when they make their first appearance, nor when they begin to decay—for example, the violet is in its greatest perfection in the month ASSISTANT. 263 of April; when, if it was taken in March, it would not give forth its whole fragrancy. Also, the same rule may be observed with all other flowers, and they should be gathered the hottest time of the day, when they then give forth their fragrancy in the greatest perfection; except they are to be distilled with the dew upon them, when they must be gathered in the morning. The same holds good with respect to fruits. And it will be observed, that they be of the finest and of the most beautiful colour, free from any blemish; as otherwise the goods would be greatly deficient in quality, especially if for the purpose of extracting tinctures. As for berries and aromatics, they may be distilled at any season; the only thing that is necessary, is to make a good choice; but in this distillers may sometimes be mistaken in the choice of their materials, from not having an accurate knowledge of their nature, &c. Note.—Having given a general sketch of dis- [ tillation, and the process gone through with the tincture, or as distillers term it the "wash, extracted from malt, corn, and other substances; and also how the process is gone through in the extracting tinctures, essences, oils, &c. from herbs, roots, fruits and seeds, &c. I shall now only |give a short sketch how the process is performed in the distillation of molass spirit, sugar pspirit, raisin spirit, simple waters, &c. To say [onuch upon it would be unnecessary, as the 264> SPIRIT DEALER’S process is nearly the same, the only difference is in the materials to be distilled. Of Molass Spirits. Spirits distilled from molasses, or treacle, are very clean and pure. It is made from common ; treacle, dissolved in water, and fermented in the | same manner as the wash for the common malt spirit. But it requires a particular art in distilling j this spirit, else it will not prove so vinous as | malt spirit, but more flat, and less sharp, pungent or acid, although otherwise much cleaner tasted, j as its essential oil is of a less offensive flavour, j Therefore, to improve and help its vinosity, take good fresh wine lees, which are in the bottom of the wine casks, and which abound with tartar, let them be added and duly fermented j along with the molasses. By this the spirit will acquire a much greater degree of vinosity and briskness, and approach nearly to the nature of foreign spirits. Y\ hen molass spirits is brought to the common ; proof strength, if it be found not to have a sufficient degree of vinosity or appearance of strength, it will be very proper to add some ; good dulcified spirit of nitre, and if the spirit be clean worked and drawn off, it may by this addition only, and a little colouring, be made to pass on ordinary judges for French brandy. Great quantities of molass spirits are used in I adulterating foreign brandy, rum, gin, and ar- | ASSISTANT. 265 rack, and much is used in the making of cherry brandy, compounds, and other drams by in- i fusion, for which many prefer it to foreign ! brandies. Molasses, when extracted, is entirely colourless; but when imitations are made, distillers give it as nearly as possible the colour of foreign spirits, the method of which I have already ex- i plained. (See Colouring of Spirits.) Of Sugar Spirits. What is meant by sugar spirits, is that extracted from the washings, dross, scummings, refuse, and waste of a sugar boiling and refining house. The scummings, washings, wasfe, &c. are put into a proper vessel, and diluted with water, and fermented in the same manner as molass or wash from the infusion of malt, and after distilled in the common method; and if the operation be carefully performed and the spirit well rectified, it may be mixed with foreign brandies, and even 1 with arrack in a large proportion, to great ad- | vantage; for sugar spirit is far superior to that : extracted from treacle, and consequently more : proper for the making of compound cordials and imitations of other liquors, as it has no par- | ticular flavour of its own. Of Raisin Spirits. Raisin spirits is that extracted from raisins, after a proper fermentation. 266 SPIRIT DEALER’^ To extract this spirit, the raisins must be infused in a proper quantity of water, and fermented in the same manner as directed in the article on fermentation. When the fermentation is completed, the whole is to be thrown into the still, and the spirit extracted by a strong fire. The reason why a strong fire may be used in distilling this spirit, is, that a greater quantity of the essential oil comes over the helm with the spirit into the worm, and from thence into the receiver, which renders it much fitter for the distiller’s purpose. This spirit is often used to mix with common malt spirits: and it is astonishing how far it will go in this respect, as 10 gallons of it will give an agreeable flavour, and surprising vinosity to 140 gallons of malt spirits; and none would believe the effect, except they saw the experiment tried. It therefore is of the first importance to the distiller to endeavour to improve the common method of extracting raisin spirit, as it improves ordinary spirits more than any other spirit that I know. Perhaps the following hint may be of use to the distiller, and merit his attention; at any rate I shall give it, and he can use his free- dom in trying the experiment. After the process of fermentation is finished, and the still charged with the fermented liquor, let the whole be drawn off with a brisk fire; but instead of the cann, generally used by distillers as a receiver, let a large glass, .termed by the chemists a separating glass, be placed at the nose of the w@rm, and a common receiver applied to the spout of the separating glass. By this simple ASSISTANT. 267 means the essential oil will remain upon the top of the spirit or low wine in the separating glass, and may be easily preserved by itself, at the end of the operation. This oil is highly advantageous to distillers, as in it resides the whole flavour; and may be used to the greatest advantage in giving that fine a- greeable taste and true vinosity to common malt spirits, and very little of it will give a fine flavour to a large quantity of spirits. After the essential oil is separated from the low wine, the spirit may be rectified into a pure and almost tasteless spirit; and is well adapted to make the finest compound cordials, or to imi- ■ tate foreign liquors, and mix with rum, brandy, gin, arrack, &c. Of Cyder Spirit. A spirit may be obtained from cyder in the i same way: but its particular flavour is not so 1 decided and desirable as that obtained from raisins; and should be distilled with a slow fire, and in a more gentle manner, and carefully rectified ; (See Rectification,) by which means fa very pure and almost tasteless spirit may be ôbtained, which may be used to very great ad- n vantage in the making of compounds, and imitat- f. ing and mixing foreign spirits, &c. Note Irf.—Upon the whole, the general rule o:ifor performing all distillations in the most safe, âccurate, and perfect manner, consists in applying no more heat than is necessary to raise the arvolatile matter, and keeping the receiving ap- y 2 268 SPIRIT DEALER’S paratus perfectly cool by surrounding it with wet cloths, immersing it in cold water, putting ice or snow about it, &c. that the whole of the volatile matter that rises may be condensed, and not escape into the air in the state of vapour. Note 2d.—At one time a patent was obtained for spirits from carrots and parsnips; the last of which is said nearly to resembl^ French brandy. But for the encouragement of agriculture, distillation from these vegetables are discontinued. In France large distilleries were set on foot for the purpose of distilling and extracting spirits from potatoe apples; and it is said that when the potatoe apples are ripe, they are pulled from the stalks, washed and fermented with about ^ of a ferment, they will yield as much spirit as is obtained from the best grapes. These experiments I leave to the operator to prove for his own satisfaction, as they can be done with little trouble or expense. OF RECTIFICATION. By rectification is meant the exact purification of certain substances by means of distillation, or sublimation; but distillation is only employed in the rectification of spirits and other liquids, while sublimation is employed in the rectification of, or to collect some volatile substances, such as sulphur, the acid of borax, and all the preparations in chemistry called flowers, &c. The spirit obtained by the first distillation ASSISTANT. 269 of liquors, which has undergone the spirituous fermentation, is overcharged with a large quantity of water and light oil, which rise along with them in this first distillation, the product of which is called aqua vitce; it is an ardent . spirit, no doubt, but far from the degree of purity and strength which alcohol ought to have, to render it fit for chemical operations, and for a variety of compounds commonly used, such as ; perfumed waters, liquors for the table, &c. | This spirit, to render it sufficiently pure and ' volatile, must be purified by new distillations i slowly conducted with a gentle fire, and water bath; by means of which the most volatile part, w'hich always rises first with the least heat, and « which is the true alcohol, is separated from the less volatile or watery part that remains in the still, and which contains the phlegm and other sub- | stances which render the alcohol or spirit impure. ’ The first liquor obtained by the second distillations or rectifications iscalledrectifiedspiritof wine,&c. The distillers have a variety of ways of perform- j: ing this operation, which merely deserve the name, >5 for instead of rectifying, or freeing the spirit from its essential oil, and phlegm or watery part, they i| alter the natural flavour of the spirit that comes 4 over in the operation. The principal business of rectification is to f1 separate the spirit from the essential oil of the i; ingredient,-which is apt at all times to adhere u closely to the spirit. And the more easily to Si perform this, great care should be taken in the first distillation; especially the spirit extracted ij from malt should be drawn off by a gentle fire, d by which means great part of the essential oil 270 SPIRIT DEALER’S will be kept from mixing with the spirit: as it has been proved by the most experienced distillers, that it is much easier to keep them asunder, than to separate them when once mixed. But as it is impossible to do this effectually , without the spirit being in some measure impregnated with the essential oil, it will appear absolutely necessary to know how this essential oil may be separated, and also how the spirit i may be freed from the phlegm; and the best ■ methods of performing this to perfection are by ! re-distillation, percolation or straining. Low wines when rectified should be put into j a still having a tall body, and gently distilled by ; the water bath, by which means a large portion j both of the oil and phlegm, on account of their density, will fall back and remain in the body of the still. But, after the operation is finished, if it is found to contain some of the essential oil, j it must be let down with fair water, and redistilled in the same gentle manner; by which ] means it may be brought to any degree of purity requisite. But there is one thing to be remembered, j that it is more difficult to cleanse alcohol or | proof spirit than low wines, because the essential | oil is more intimately mixed with the two former J than with the latter. This oil may, however, be separated from alcohol and proof spirit by the method already laid down, especially if it be previously filtered through cap paper, thick flannel, sand, stone, &c. But although this method effectually answer the intention, it is in general rejected by our distillers, on account of the slowness of the ASSISf ANT. 271 operation, and other methods substituted in its ! stead, which are not so effectual in the purifying of the spirit, but destroys its natural flavour, j and makes a more intimate mixture between the I particles of the spirit and the essential oil. It would be unnecessary and almost impossible to enumerate all the methods practised by r distillers, as almost every one pretends to have i some secret method of his own for that pur- ? pose. But the principal methods in use for the l rectifying malt spirits may be reduced to three, j1 viz. by fixed alkaline salt, by acid spirits mixed with alkaline salts, and by saline (saltj bodies, ' and flavouring additions. « The way to rectify by alkaline salts is thus, to every piece of proof spirits (from 100 to 130 gallons) add 15 pounds, or even more, of dry salt of tartar, fixed nitre, (nitre in crystals) or calcined powdered tartar, charge the still and lute the head, and distil by a gentle heat, and be careful to leave out the faints, as they would destroy the whole. By this method a large por- I tion of foetid oil will be left in the still; and I what of it comes over will be greatly attenuated, weakened or lessened. But this operation is generally performed in a very different manner, for the distillers, instead of distilling the spirit ] in a gentle and equable manner, they work the still by a strong fire in its full force, by which means the oil, which should have remained in i the still, is driven over the helm, and intimately mixed with the spirit, by which means the whole operation is frustrated, and the spirit is render- 272 SPIRIT DEALER’S ed more hard to cleanse and rectify than it was before. But even although the operation be performed according to the rules of art, it is far from being perfect, for it is well known that part of the fixed salts, by being dissolved in the liquor, become volatile in the operation, pass over the helm, and intimately mix with the essential oil still contained in the spirits, by which means the oil becomes more perfectly united with the spirits, and of course, more difficult to be separated by repeated distillations. Not only this, for the still being worked in its full force, the latter oil of the malt forms into a kind of liquid soap in the still by means of the alkaline salt, and is brought over the helm with the faints, and mixes with the spirit; whereby it is rendered almost as nauseous and ill-tasted as before the operation. Besides, although this operation were performed in its utmost perfection, it will not properly answer the end intended—for the alkaline salt destroys the vinosity of the spirit, and deprives it of one of its most valuable properties. The distillers in general are well acquainted with this defect in the operation, and endeavour to supply it by an addition of acids. This I may term the second method of rectifying by alkalines and acids. To perform rectification by fixed alkalies and acids is the same as the foregoing; the spirit drawn over from fixed alkalies is also the same; but in order to mortify or change alkali in the spirit, and restore its vinosity, a proper quantity of some acid spirit is added, particularly of the ASSISTANT. 273 ! mineral kinds, because of their cheapness, as oil of vitriol, spirit of nitre, oil of sulphur, and the like. However, the young distiller should be cautious in being too profuse in the use of these corrosive acids: sulphureous spirit of vitriol, dulcified spirit of nitre, or acid spirit of wine, will be found to answer the purpose much better. A third method of rectification is by saline, ; (salt) or brinish bodies, and flavouring ingre- i dients. The way of performing this operation ■j and the two foregoing, are the same; fixed al- ii kaline salt, corntpon salt dried, calcined vitriol, ’i sandiver, (dross of glass,) alum, &c. is put in- to the still along with the^low wines, and then the spirit is drawn off as before directed. When the quantity is drawn off, the flavouring ingredients are added to give the spirit the fla- 1 vour intended. But by this means the spirit is not rendered sufficiently pure, for the disagreeable flavour of the spirit generally overpowers that of the ingredients, whereby the whole in- Itention is either destroyed, or a compound flavour produced, very far different from the flavour that is intended. There is another method used by distillers in the rectification of their malt spirits, that is, in. stead of using alkaline salts, they use quick |i lime; there is no doubt this ingredient cleanses, dephlegmates, or clears the spirit from phlegm and water considerably, but like rectification by | alkaline salts, it acquires an alkaline disposition and also a niderous flavour. Therefore acids should be mixed with spirits rectified with quick lime, as well as with those rectified with alkaline 274 SPIRIT DEALER’S salt. If calcined chalk and well purified calcined animal bones, &c. were used in the place of quick lime, the spirit would not have so much of an alkaline or niderous flavour, and the consequence would be that the flavouring ingredients might be added to it with more success than can be expected from a spirit rectified with alkaline salt. If neutral salts were used instead of alkaline, perhaps the spirit might be rendered pure without contracting an alkaline, niderous, and disagreeable flavour; soluble tartar might be used for this purpose, though the spirit acquires from it a little soponaceous flavour. Dr. Cox’s method of effecting this is to deprive the volatile salts of their oil, by rendering them neutral with spirit of salt, and afterwards subliming them with salt of tartar, or the salt may be varied if the spirit of salt should be found not so well adapted to the purpose as might be wished; but upon the whole I think that fine dry sugar is the best adapted to the purpose of rectifying these spirits, for this reason, it unites readily with the essential oil, detains and fixes it without imparting any terinous, alkaline, niderous or other nauseous flavour to the spirits rectified by it. Having laid down the principal methods practised by our distillers in the rectifying of spirits. I shall only remark that there is no other way of rectifying to perfection besides what I first laid down, viz. that by gentle distillation; but in this case, it must be remembered that the whole process must be of a piece. Or the first distillation from the wash must be performed in a gentle manner also, otherwise the essential oil ASSISTANT. 275 will be intimately blended and mixed with the spirit, as not to be easily separated by re-distillation. There is another good property attending this method of rectifying, it may be applied to the rectifying all kinds of spirits, from whatever ingredients they may be extracted, &c. OF WHISKY. LeezeThan me either on drink! school it or gies college; us mair It Itkindles pangs wit, us fou'it waukens o’ knowledge. lair. Be'tOr whisky ony stronger gill, or potion. penny wheep. It neverTo kiltie fails, up on our drinking notion deep. By night or day.Burks. Whisky, usque, or as it is expressed in Gae- ilic usquebaugh, is a well known drink in Scot- land and Ireland; it is principally extracted from malt, but the spirit extracted from molasses, njeugar, &c. is also in Scotland and Ireland called mthisky; it is much used in the adulteration of blforeign spirits, making of compounds, cordials, h&c. Great quantities of it is sent to England, bwhere it is rectified over with juniper berries, iliturpentine, &c. when it receives the name of i'gin or Geneva, as it resembles Holland Geneva; njut it is much inferior in quality, and it is a- jMonishing how the people of England should riccustom themselves to drink such pernicious . tuff with pleasure. In England, whisky is generally called Scotch blue beer, and when the 276 SPIRIT DEALER’S English come to Scotland they are very much deceived with it, for they imagine that they should drink it as they do their own strong beer, that h cap- out. But what is the consequence? They think one thing is two; and, like Don Quixote, they 1 see giants, monsters, hobgoblins, inchanted castles, think every body drunk but themselves, would fight with the wind, and walk up- | on their knees, when they ought to walk upon | their feet. There was formerly, and still is, large quantities of whisky made in the Highlands of Scot- | land, and from thence smuggled down into the , low countries; but it is now greatly suppressed by the inumerable hoards of Excise officers and cavalry, which are always on the alert watching j their motions, and with whom severe battles | frequently take place. And in many places, the Highlanders have no other way of paying | their rents. The whisky made in the Highlands of Scot- i land, its Islands, and also that of Ireland, is in general of a good quality, particularly that made with the small stills, which has, if properly managed, an agreeable flavour and vinosity. There are some places more famed for the goodness of their whisky than others, such as Glen- levit, Ferentosh, Campbelton, Crieff, &c. of which intimation is given in the houses where it is sold, upon tickets almost in every spirit dealer’s '■ window in Glasgow, Edinburgh, and other | places. Whisky from malt, when distilled by a slow fire, is a most agreeable vinous liquor; and ASSISTANT. 277 when running off, the low wines, or as it is sometimes termed doubling, if roots, seeds, berries, aromatics, plants, moss, peat, &c. be thrown in or suspended into the still, they will impart | to the spirit a portion of their flavour; and if as I much attention were paid to the improvement ! of the liquor by the distillers as might be, there [ would be a greater variety of flavours to Scotch : and Irish whisky. i I am of opinion that good whisky extracted from malt is the most safe dram, if taken in mo- f deration, and not s.o pernicious and hurtful to the constitution as any foreign liquor; but if taken immoderately, it must have the same per- “ nicious effects. Whisky, on account of its being drunk in a clear state, is not so easily adulterated as rum or brandy; although, no doubt, it is susceptible of some degree of sophistication. Whisky extracted from malt does not answer J;; the purpose of making up compounds, cordials, : and imitating foreign liquors so well as that ex- Itracted from sugar, molasses, raisins and cyder, as it has a particular flavour of its own, which nothing will overcome but a superabundance of the tincture of seeds, herbs, roots, spices, &c. that may be infused into it, which superabundance would make the flavour of the ingredients too strong, and of course disagreeable and harsh; whereas if sugar, molass, raisin or cyder spirit, K termed silent whisky, or whisky without any par- .;!■ ticular of its own, were used, the flavour of Li the ingredients could be regulated according to . taste without any difficulty. z 278 SPIRIT DEALER’S The mode followed in England by the landlords who keep inns, public houses, taprooms, &c. is far superior to that followed in Scotland. In England the drink is paid for as it is brought in, but in Scotland it is only paid when the company are going to leave the house, (except in taprooms, where the company are promis- cuous,) which causes many a quarrel betwixt the landlord and his guests; if ^hey are so imprudent as to call for more liquor than they are able to pay, they must either leave some part of their clothing, or be escorted to the police office, there to pay it with costs. Scotchmen take it as a high affront if the payment is asked for, as the liquor comes in; but it would be much better, and more convenient, if the landlords in Scotland were generally to adopt this plan, and in a very short time it would not be taken amiss. In England it is not uncommon in taprooms to see lines over the chimney piece intimating that the drink must be paid for as brought in, of one of which the following is a specimen. MustAll you pay that for bring pipes tobaccoas well hereas beer; AndI pray you sit that down stand by my before desire, the fire, MayThat seeother the folks, fre and as feelwell itas too;you, ISince cannot man tell to whatman manis so tounjust, trust; PayMy liquor’sto-day, good,I'll trust ’tis noto-morrow. man’s sorrow, Taprooms are not so common in Scotland as in England, except in Edinburgh and Glasgow. ASSISTANT. 279 In Glasgow there are clubs, which meet in dif- ! ferent public houses of the town twice a-week, under the name of free and easy clubs, composed of tradesmen, &c. who choose a preses and vice-preses, to keep order, and he who is preses one night, chooses who is to officiate as preses and vice-preses next night; the preses : commences with singing a song, then calls up- ; on the vice-preses to sing, who after calls upon E one of the company, &c. and every one who * sings last has a right to nominate any one of the , company, till the club break up—the hours are ’ generally from 8 to near 12 o’clock, p. m. The preses and vice-preses are generally dressed with a ir1 Highland bonnet, feather, and tartan plaid, and canopy over their head. In these clubs nothing is taken amiss, provided order be kept, all is free and easy. The fondness which all known nations of America entertain for spirituous liquors is ex- I; perienced by all travellers on that vast continent; Dr. Sparrman, Col. Gordon, and Mr. Vaillant, and others, unite in this information, and we find similar accounts in the details of the African I slave trade on the other side of the coast; and in : our own plantations we find it exemplified upon the first importation of these unfortunate victims of oppression, cruelty, and avarice. The Dutch, Russians, and Laplanders, are also particularly fond of spirituous liquors, even | more so than any other country in the known world—the extreme severity of the climate, no doubt, is the principal cause of their being so much addicted to this vice. SPIRIT DEALER’S Drunkenness, or excessive drinking, has been the cause of many crimes, as a habitual drunkard is a monster of a man. A case was brought into a Court in America, on 3d December, 1821, to prove Abner Pierce a habitual drunhard; after the case was gone through, and evidence adduced on both sides, it was then by the direction of the Court submitted to the Jury, who retired half an hour, and returned, as the foreman termed it, a “ special verdict in favour of the appellant,’’ that it did not appear from the testimony submitted to them that the appellant had been intoxicated more than the half of his time; and it was the opinion of the Jury that a man could not be considered a habitual drunkard unless he were drunk more than the half of his time!!! Wonder- ful scope before a man loses his character, and is worthy of the name, a habitual drunhard. Of mixing Whisky. Whisky may be mixed up in such a way as to be of considerable advantage to the seller, and be equally as good, agreeable, and palatable to the buyer. But when whisky is to be mixed to sell at any certain price, the quantity of the’two different liquors would need to be carefully studied: It would not do to mix up whisky, if the two kinds to be mixed were of a bad quality, as two bads will never make a good; also the proportion of both would need to be studied; for example, if good malt whisky and inferior grain whisky were to be mixed together, so that ASSISTANT. 281 it might be sold at a certain price, it would need to be considered whether the malt whisky would stand two-thirds or equal quantities, one-third, one to four, one to five, or one to six, &c. of grain whisky, without spoiling the effect and ' flavour which the malt whisky is intended to produce upon that extracted from raw un- malted grain. If both the malt and grain whisky is good, two-thirds of grain whisky may [ be added to one-third of malt whisky, or two gallons of grain and one of malt whisky, without the mixture being known by those who reckon themselves judges. If they are both or one of them rather inferior, the proportion of malt whisky will require to be increased, and that from raw grain diminished, else the effect would be completely spoiled, as the taste and flavour of the grain whisky would be predominant. There is another thing to be observed in the mixing up of grain and malt whisky together, and that is, the longer they stand in the cask after they are mixed the better, as it gives the mixture time to incorporate, and all the feculencies fall to the bottom, and by the mellowness it acquires by age, it is impossible, although there were a large proportion of the mixture grain whisky, to know it from that extracted from malt. But it is impossible to lay down a positive rule for the proportion of each kind to be mixed together—the spirit dealer must be the judge himself, according to the quality of the spirits, what proportion of each 282 SPIRIT DEALER’S will be required, so as to produce a pleasant, cheap, and agreeable flavoured whisky. When spirits are made up this way for wholesale there is no water added, except it be perhaps above the regular hydrometer strength, when it will require to be reduced down to the standard. But if it is to be sold in retail it will require more water, according to the degree of strength it is to be sold at, or the price put upon it. Those that carry on pretty extensively in the spirit line may have a considerable saving in reducing of whisky, by putting into a cask a dozen or a dozen and a half of small beer that may have turned sour and not fit for drinking; this will considerably improve its flavour, and mellow the whisky, and not only this, but the acid and spirit that is in the beer will incorporate with the spirits, by which means more will be required to reduce it down to the degree of strength wanted, which of course makes the quantity of spirits greater, which will fully compensate, and more than compensate the merchant for the price of his beer. There may be an objection to this, on account of it giving the whisky a light straw colour, similar to gin ; but in a large cask the tinge that a dozen might impart to the spirits would never be known, it will be so very little, and would answer very well for drams in the house. But it might not answer so well to sell it wholesale to genteel families, or to those who were to retail it out again. But if filtered through sand, ASSISTANT. 283 charcoal or cotton, it would have the effect of [ clearing it considerably. Strong ale may also be used, but porter would be too dark of the colour, and would tinge it too much, and for this reason is much better ' for foreign spirits; if the quantity necessary for reducing the cask to the strength wanted would impart too much colour, put into the whisky as ;. much beer as may be thought proper not to in- I jure its colour, and add as much boiled water s that has turned cold, as will reduce it to the ne- I cessary degree of strength. And the longer it L' is allowed to stand in the cask without being used, after it is reduced in this way, the better; » and it will be found superior to whisky reduced jf in any other way, besides the saving of the ale or beer, which might have been lost. Likewise, there is another thing to be observed in reducing whisky in this way, that is, it gives it the character and appearance of age, which it may be thought to have aquired from the cask, and there are a great many people j fonder of a dram that has received a tinge than that which is clear and transparent. And the t spirit dealer is in no difficulty of keeping whisky l of both kinds at all times upon hand, so that he may answer his customers, and serve them with whatever kind they may call for. There is some whisky of a superior quality that will require more water or beer than others l;i to reduce it from one degree of strength to any i' other degree of strength wanted; but this must be [: left to the spirit dealer, to judge of this for himself, : as he knows the whisky is in quality. Also, spi- 284 SPIRIT DEALER’S rits will stand more beer or water to reduce it from one degree of strength to another in winter than in summer, as the heat of summer kills the spirit, and detracts from it a great portion of its strength and vinosity. It has been found that a cubic inch of good brandy spirit is 10 grains heavier in winter than in summer, which upon a gill is 3 pennyweights, from which it plainly appears that it is most profitable to buy spirits in winter and sell them out in summer, as they are always bought and sold by measure: it has also been found that 32 gallons of spirits bought in winter will make 33 in summer. For the expansion of all fluids is proportionable to the degree of heat, that is, with double or treble heat a fluid will expand two or three times as much; from this we may conclude, that the greater the degree of cold, the spirits will contract the more and measure less, and of course weigh the more; also, the greater the extreme of warmth they will expand the more, and consequently measure more, from whence, if studied, arises a profit to the merchant. Spirit dealers should be careful in purchasing spirits from the distiller to get it as old as possible, at any rate if they cannot get it old, they should get it as strong as possible, as all spirits new distilled, for some time after lose their strength and vinosity, by which the purchaser would be a considerable loser; and those who purchase by the beads, for bead 25 woufd require it bead 23, or discount for what it may be supposed to lose of the strength, for spirits run ASSISTANT. 285 off with a brisk fire, will lose more of its strength than that which is run off with a slow moderate fire. Having premised thus far upon the nature of the mixing of whisky or spirits of any description, I shall give a few examples of the proper method how a spirit dealer can mix it up to sell i it at any price, retain the flavour of the malt I spirit, and still keep it up to the proper degree | of strength necessary—Thus, § of grain, and £ j of malt whisky. Of malting 3 Callous of Whisky, at 518 per Gallon Gal.1 0qt. pt.0 gil.0 good malt whisky, at 7s. is £0 s.7 d.0 02 0 0 O0 nogood water grain in thedo. filling at up,5s. is O 10 O O ^ 0 Price3 0 of the0 mixture0 gallons is malt whisky,- -at 7s. is- 01 171 0 Thegain upon the compound is - - £0 4 0 Note.—It will be noticed, that in mixing of the above, both the grain and malt whisky must be as good as possibly can be got at the \ price, and if thought necessary, a gill of spirit of ; wine may be added to increase its vinosity, which will cost 9d more, and of course will reduce the profit to 3/3. Example, § of malt, and ^ of grain whisky. 286 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of making 3 Gallons of Whisky at 6/8 per Gallon. Gal. qt. pt. gil. t £ s. d. 21 0 0 0 maltgrain whisky, whisky, atat 7s. 5s. 6d. is is 0 155 0 0 0 0 0 no water in the filling up, 10— 0 Price3 0 of the0 0mixture gallons is malt -whisky, at 7s. 6d.- is 1 02 06 The gain upon the compound is - £0 2 6 Note.—It will be noticed, that in mixing according to the above example, the grain whisky is rather inferior, as it is to be sold out in wholesale to those who are to retail it again, in which case it would requite to taste and smell strongly of the malt spirit.—Example, £ of malt, and £ of grain whisky. Of making 4< Gallons of Whisky, at Is. per Gallon. Gal. qt. pt. gil. £ s. d. 2 0 0 0 maltgrain whisky, whisky, atat 8s. 6s. perper gallon, gallon, isis 0 1612 O0 0 0 0 0 no water in the filling up, 1—— 8 0 Price4 0 of the0 mixture0 galls.maltwhisky, is - at8s.- per -gall.isl 18 12 0 The gain upon the compound is - 0 4 0 Note If the whisky is still required to have more of the malt taste and flavour of the malt whisky, it may be mixed with the grain whisky in the proportion of 1 to 4, 1 to 5, or 1 to 6, according to the quality that is wanted. Note.—When water is to be added to whisky to reduce it from one degree of strength to an- ASSISTANT. 287 other, there is one thing which we have taken notice of before, viz. there is some whisky that will stand more water to reduce it from one degree of strength to another, on account of its age, its texture more fine, and contains more of thd saccharine matter, and in the distilling run off I by a slower fire; for that which is new and run I off with a strong fire, and extracted from coarse | grain or malt, will, by adding as much water to it as to whisky whose qualities are the reverse, ^ will be over-reduced and spoiled, and cannot be recovered and brought back to the strength in- : tended, without a considerable quantity of very strong whisky, alcohol or spirit of wine, being | added. Therefore, spirit dealers should be very 1 cautious in reducing spirits, and not add the full quantity of water that the hydrometer or glass j beads will allow, except the spirits be very old, , as they will be apt to dro'um their spirits as it is I; termed, for when that accident happens it will 5 lead them into a considerable expense before Ithey can recover them to the same degree of | strength which they intended to reduce them to; l for it is better to prevent an evil than remedy it ' when committed. When whisky is to be retailed, or sold in drams i; in the house, it must be reduced or made down v with water to the price it is to be sold at, as a some may call for it at 2d. 3d. ■id. 5d. and 6d. tj, per gill. If it is malt whisky, it must be re- h; duced with grain whisky and water, and if it be il the very low priced, it must be grain whisky >i-reduced with water alone, as grain whisky can h be made and sold cheaper, as there is no ex- 288 SPIRIT DEALER’S pense for malting. To reduce whisky with water the water must be added according to its strength, viz 1 to 3, 1 to 4, 1 to 5, 1 to 6, 1 to 7, &c. or 1 gallon of water to 3 gallons of whisky, 1 of water to 4 of whisky, &c. Of making 4 Gallons of Whisky at 5/3 per Gallon. Gal.1 0qt. pt.0 gil.0 good malt whisky, at 9s per gall, is £0 s.9 d.0 21 0 0 0 gallongood grain water, ordo. 1 toat 3, the6s. fillingdo. up,is 0 12 0 4 1 1 0 Note.—In0 0 o gallonsthe above at 5s. 3d.the is spirits- are supposed=£110 to be 33| per cent, over proof, or will stand to mix it with 1 gallon of water to 3 gallons of spirits, which is reducing the spirits 33£ per cent. Of making 4 Gallons of Whisky at 6/6 per Gallon. Gal. qt. pt, gil. £ s. d 21 0 0 0 good maltgrain whisky, do. at 6s.10s. perdo. gal. isis 01 06 0O 1 0 0 0 gal. water, or 1 to 3 the filling up, 1 6 0 4 0 0 0 gallons at 6s 6d. is - =£160 Note In the above the spirits is reduced 33£ per cent, also, but the malt whisky is high of price and of a good quality, and two gallons of malt is added for one of grain whisky. ASSISTANT. 289 Of making 5 Gallons of Whisky at 6/6 per Gallon. GaL qt. pt. gil. =£ s. d. 2 0 0 0 goodgood malt grain whisky, do. atat 10s. 6s. "d.f?gal.do. is is 01 120 O6 1 0 0 0 gal. water, or 1 to 4 the filling up, 1 12 6 5 0 0 0 gallons at 6s. 6d. is - « £1 12 6 Note.—In the above the spirits are supposed to be 25 per cent, over proof, or will stand to mix it with 1 gallon of water to 4- gallons of spirits, which is reducing the spirits 25 per cent, and upon the same plan, whisky may be made up mixed, made up and reduced to sell it at any price, and still the flavour of the malt will be retained, and although these tables are laid down as a rule, they are not an invariable one, as any proportion of malt and grain whisky may be mixed together to suit customers, as I have seen some who would not drink good malt whisky altogether, because it did not bite their mouth, as they termed it. Note.—If the quality of the malt and grain whisky be good, a compound of both may be sold as malt whisky, and no judge whatever will know but that it is so, which will make a little more profit to the spirit dealer besides his ordinary profits, and be equally wholesome and good to the consumer. 290 SPIRIT DEALER’S To make 5 Gallons of Whisky at Qs. per Gallon. Isf. Gal.2 qt.0 pt.0 gil.0 good malt whisky at 10s. is £10 s. d.0 21 0 0 0 gallongood grain water, whisky or 1 to at4 the6s. fillingup,is 0 12 0 Price5 0 of 0the 0mixture gallons is at 8s.- is - - -11202 0 0 Gain upon the compound is - - 0 8 0 To make 5 Gallons of Whisky, at 8s. per Gallon. 2d. Gal3 qt.0 pt.0 gil.0 good malt whisky at 10s. 6d. is £111 S. d.6 1 0 0 0 gallongood grain water, whisky or lto4 at the 5s. fillingup, 8d. is 0 5 8 1 17 2 5 0 0 0 gallons at 8s. is - - 2 0 0 Price of the mixture is - - - 1 17 2 Gain upon the compound is - - 0 2 10 Note.—The above may serve as a specimen how malt, grain, sugar and molass whisky may be mixed in any proportion, and still retain a strong flavour of the malt. The following table shews when spirits is bought, or reduced to any price per gallon, what is the price per gill from 4s. 6d. to 24s. per gallon. Example.—Suppose whisky were bought or reduced to 7s. 6d. per gallon, what is the price per gill ? Look in the columns marked on the head per gallon,a.r\iyo\i will find 7s. 6d. and in the other columns marked on the headier gill, on the same line you will find the price per gill to be 2£d, &c. ASSISTANT. 291

The use of the foregoing table is to show when whisky, or any other kind of spirits is bought at any certain price per gallon, what it is per gill, and by doubling or trebling the sum, for the payment of house rent, poor’s rates, li- cence for the excise, police money, and all bur- thens, the spirit dealer can at one view see what rate he can sell it at per gill, to pay all expences and have a reasonable profit. Suppose a spirit dealer were to purchase grain whisky at 4s. 6d. per gallon, the price per gill is l^d. and if he would require to have double that sum to bear his charges, look in the column under price per gallon, for 9s. which is twice 4s. 6d. and on the A a 2 292 SPIRIT DEALER’ same line in the other columns under price per gill, you will find 3d. which is the price per gill it should be sold at, to double the price paid away, and cover all charges; the like method may be taken with any other price, and reversed to find when at so much per gill, what it is per gallon, or multiply the price charged for a gill always by 3, and the product is shillings per gallon; thus, at 2d. per gill, 2 X 3=6s. per gallon; at 3d. per gill, 3xS=9s. per gallon; at 4d. per gill, 4x3= 12s. per gal. &c. and if one-third more would be sufficient to pay all charges, suppose the spirits were bought at 8s. look in the first column for 12s. which is one-third more, or if one-fourth would be sufficient, suppose the whisky bought at 9s. look in the first column for 12s. which is one-fourth more, &c. with any price, according as the spirit dealer sees it will freely cover his charges and bring him a profit. jVote.—There are a great many spirit dealers that I have met with, which are against compounding or mixing of spirits, or putting into them any ingredients whatever, pretending that they are honest, and would not practise such deception upon the public. But they do not consider that the air we breathe, is a compound of oxygen and hydrogen gas, azoteornitrogen, and whenever this compound ceases to exist, or the hydrogen is separated from the oxygen, it deprives every animal of life; and it is still more astonishing, when it is considered that about three-fourths of the air we breathe is composed of hydrogen gas, which is of such destructive qualities. From this, I am of opinion, that if compounding be ASSISTANT. 293 judiciously managed, and nothing which is known to be really and truly poisonous is used, that compounds are not only palatable, but highly beneficial and conducive to health, as they change the effect which a perpetual round of sameness would have upon the system, &c. Of Filtration. Filtration is an operation, by means of which spirits and other fluids are separated from such constituent particles and feculencies which may be mixed with, and deprive them of their clearness and transparency, the proper knowledge of which is of the utmost advantage and importance to spirit dealers, and no spirit dealer can make his spirits appear to advantage without a thorough knowledge of this operation. The proper materials for a filter, are charcoal, sand, stone, paper, leather, cloth, tow, cotton, wool, spunge, &c. The forms of filters are various, and the materials used, according to the in- Itention of the operator, and the nature of the liquid to be filtered; their size also must be in proportion to the extent of the spirit dealer’s trade. Foreign spirits may be filtered through sand, paper, leather, cloth, tow, cotton, wool, and spunge; water through stone and sand; whisky through charcoal, sand, paper, leather, cloth, tow, cotton, wool, spunge, &c. If foreign spirits he filtered through charcoal, it improves their flavour, but if whisky be filtered through char- r coal, it greatly improves it, and gives it a fine steady colour, charcoal also imparts to water a 294 SPIRIT dealer’s great degree of sweetness and purity; alum also has the same effect. Note.—All kinds of glass vessels and other utensils may be purified from long retained smell of every kind, in an easy and perfect manner, by rinsing them well out with charcoal powder, af- ( ter the greater impurities have been scoured off with sand and potash. Of making Charcoal. The woods most proper for making charcoal, are oak, birch, cherry-tree, apple-tree, pear-tree, rosewood, &c. and the way to make it is this; cut the wood in pieces about nine inches in length, and about the thickness of a man’s wrist, put them into a grate, or any place most convenient, free of dust or rubbish of any description, place fire below them, and let them burn until the wood is all black and charred, take them off, and place them upon a clean stone, let them cool, then you are to beat the wood so charred, small with a hammer or wooden mallet, and put it through a fine sieve, or cut the wood in very short pieces and put it into a clean pot over a good fire, and when the pot is red hot, it will both char the wood and keep it clean; pound it small, put it through a sieve, wash it with pure water and dry it, when it will be fit for use. Of Filtering Cask and Filters. Filtering casks may be made of various forms, ASSISTANT. 295 but I think the following is the most convenient, as the bottoms and filters can be taken out and cleaned, or changed with ease and conveniency. A, the cask—B, a small tube that goes from the top of the cask down to the place which contains the filtered spirits, for the admission of a little air to cause the spirits run olf—C, a stop cock for drawing off the spirits—t), the hole on the top of the cask, into which the funnel is put, for the pouring in of the spirits to be filtered, which must always be kept stopped, except when pouring in the liquor. In providing of a filtering cask, the spirit dealer would need to consider what size would be necessary for the extent of his trade; suppose a cask that held 18 gallons, were thought sufficient, the cask must be divided in three parts, ^ for the filtered, f for the unfiltered spirits, or the division for the filtered to hold 6 gallons, and that for the unfiltered, 12 gallons. The first, or downmost filtering bottom is fitted to the cask, and a rind of woollen cloth put round it with tacks, to prevent any of the spirits from escaping by the sides. This bottom is perforated with holes, upon this bottom is placed a flannel cloth, upon which either the sand or charcoal chosen for the filter, is placed, from three to four inches deep; above this another flannel cloth is laid, but no hoop is required, a second 296 SPIRIT DEALER’S bottom similar to the first is fitted to go above this, but not perforated with so many holes; upon this bottom may laid another flannel cloth, which will prevent the grosser impurities from getting down to the sand or charcoal; this cloth may be taken out and washed, as need requires, which will prevent the filter from getting foul, and of course it will not require to be so often renewed; upon the second bottom exactly below the hole where the spirits to be filtered are poured in, may be placed a small stand or breaker, of wood, for the purpose of dispersing the spirits through the cask. The top of the cask may be put in tight with a rind of woollen cloth round it, in the same manner as the filtering bottoms, which will prevent the escape of the spirit, and the hole in the top must be kept close also, except when pouring in the spirits, but if the small tube down the inside of the cask be stopped, the spirits will not run off. Filtering casks may be made double or treble, all thatis required,is threebottomsperforatedwith holes, the filter upon the downmost bottom may be of sand, and that upon the second bottom charcoal, and the other bottom placed above the charcoal, same as the single filter, or if thought necessary, a filter of sand may be placed above that, &c. Fine sea sand makes a far better filter than river sand, as it is much finer, and freer of any impurities that might give the spirits a bad taste, but it must be washed with pure water before being used. Stone is properly used in the filtration of ASSISTANT. 297 water, but the stone suitable for this filter requires to be very soft. Paper is very good for the filtration of spirituous liquors, but it requires to be soft spungy paper, such as blotting paper, but to prevent any accident by the breaking of the paper, it should be covered over or supported with a thin cloth, j either of cotton, linen or woollen. Soft tanned leather, such as doe-skin, makes a ivery good filter, if put round a wooden hoop, and ?put down inside of the filtering cask, so that the ! centre hang down like a bag. Cloth, if fine in the texture, makes a middling good filter, and either cotton, linen, woollen or I'silk may be used. Tow makes an ordinary filter, if placed in the I bottom of a funnel, but cotton or wool suits the ^purpose much better, as they are finer in the ; texture. A good clean spunge also placed in the neck ^iof a funnel, makes an excellent filter. Note.—In the filtration of spirits, there is one piling to be particularly observed, viz, that the I top of the filtering cask, funnel, &c. be kept quite close, except a small peg or air hole, to prevent the escape of the fume or spirit, which, if allowed, would considerably weaken the spirits to the great loss of the spirit dealer. And not K.only filters, but all casks which contain spirits, k should be kept quite close, if the spirit dealers niare not blind to their own interest. I have found it of particular advantage in filtering through charcoal, to pour upon the filter, a iiilittle of the essence for any particular flavour SPIRIT DEALER’S wanted, such as the essence of moss, peat, thyme, cloves, spirit of nitre, oil of almonds, oil of vitriol, &c. or a mixture of essences; this compound of essences, along with the agreeable flavour produced by the charcoal, makes a most delicious and wholesome dram, agreeable to the palate, and satisfactory to the consumers. For a small trade, a large wooden or iron tinned funnel, made high of the sides, and a tight head upon it, with a hole for pouring in the spirits, will do exceedingly well for a filter, and is very convenient in every respect. I have found that filtration by a great many spirit dealers is counted of little moment, but I assert that it is one of the most important and advantageous processes in the trade, as spirits of all kinds, though ever so foul, turbid and milky, can by filtration alone, be made to appear beautiful, clear and transparent, and not the sandiest drop of them lost. Of Clarification. Clarification is the process of freeing a fluid from heterogenous matter, dregs, lees, &e. The term is seldom applied to the process of straining or filtration, which, although it has the same effect is something different. (See Filtra- tion.) Whites of eggs, gelatine or clear gummy juice, acids, certain salts, lime, blood and alcohol, in many cases answer the purpose of clarifying fluids that cannot be freed from their impurities by simple percolation or straining. ASSISTANT. 299 ' Albumen or the whites of eggs, and jellyous gummy matters dissolved in a small portion of water, is cdmmonly used for fining vinous liquors, as it webs and carries the feculent matter to the bottom. Albumen is particularly used for fluids, with which it will combine when cold, such as syrups, it being congelated by the heat, [ and then rising into a scum with the dregs. Is- i inglass is commonly employed in clarifying or * fining of wine and malt liquor, either dissolved j or undissolved, from a quarter to one ounce for the cask. Care should, however, be taken that ' the whole of the isinglass is separated from the ; liquor before it be drunk, otherwise it will give ■i it a disagreeable flavour and might excite nausea, ! vomiting and giddiness, even in a small quantity. To clarify, when the substances to be used is i dissolved in a small quantity of the liquor to be o clarified, or otherwise, it is put in among the t liquor, and stirred well about with a staff, and t then allowed to stand till all the feculences fall J to the bottom, when it is drawn off from the sedi- l ments. But there is one thing to be observed with | respect to clarification, viz. that the substances ip employed, seldom unite with the grosser impurities alone, but frequently carry off more or jI less of what is essential to the liquor, but more particularly in medicinal preparations. Care K-must also be taken when albumen, (whites of m eggs,) is used, that the clarified liquor is not left ;t to stand upon the sediments, otherwise it will j f render it more foul than it was before, and pos- iii sibly more noxious, from undergoing the putrid a|fermentation. 200 SPIRIT DEALER’S Heat alone clarifies some fluids, such as the ! juice of plants, in which, however, the albumic or jelly matter which they contain may be the principal cause, &c. One or two spoonfuls of fresh cream will clarify a quart of spirits in a few ' hours, but it requires to be filtered afterwards. A couple of handfuls of marie, thrown into the press, will clarify cyder, &c. Of the Specific Gravity of Bodies. The art of weighing bodies in water, and thereby finding their specific gravities or comparative j weight or weights, bulk for bulk. The specific gravities of bodies are as their | weights, bulk for bulk; thus, a body is said to j have two or three times the specific gravity of i another, when it contains two or three times as much matter in the same space. A body immersed in any fluid, such as water, wine, spirits, acids, &c. will sink to the bottom, if it be heavier than its bulk of the fluid. If it be sus- | pended therein, it will lose as much of what it | weighed in air as its bulk of fluid weighs. Hence it appears, that all bodies of equal j bulk which would sink in fluids, lose equal weight when suspended therein, and unequal bodies ; lose in proportion to their bulks. If a piece of brass, glass, lead or silver, be im- ij mersed and suspended in different sorts of fluids, ]; its different losses of weight therein, will shew | how much it is heavier than its bulk of fluid, being lightest in which the immersed body loses least of its aerial weight. ASSISTANT. 301 Hence solid bubbles (beads) of glass is often used for finding the specific gravities of bodies. But these, although generally used on account of j their cheapness, are inconvenient and incorrect; ‘ for if the bead dropt into the liquor or fluid does not determine the specific gravity of the fluid, another has to be tried, &c. until the specific i gravity of the fluid is ascertained, and even then not with accuracy. ( To find the specific gravities both of solids and H fluids with accuracy, common water must be if taken as the standard for comparing all other Efluids, the gravity of which must be represented by unity or 1,000, to give room for expressing ij the ratios of other gravities in decimal parts. I By representing the gravity of common water Hliby unity or 1,000, and a cubic inch of said water p|to be 9.26 drams, avoirdupoise; these two give 302 SPIRIT DEALER’S Note.—If it is known how much the weight of a cubic inch is, the weight of the gallons are found by multiplying the drams of a cubic inch of the several fluid bodies by 231, the cubic inches in an English wine gallon, and reducing the product to pounds, ounces, drams, &c. | Example.—A cubic inch of human blood being equal to 9.76 drams, avoirdupoise weight, what is the weight of a gallon ? MultiplyBy 9.76231 cubicdrams inches in a cubic in a inch.wine gallon. 2928976 1952 16) 16)2254.56(140(816 128 lb. 6465 12 oz. Ans. 8 lb. 12 oz.14.56 14.56 drams. drams the weight of a gallon. | A body specifically lighter than a fluid will ' swim upon its surface, in such a manner that a quantity of the fluid equal in bulk with the immersed part of the body, will be as heavy as the whole body, hence the lighter a fluid is, the deep- !j er a body will sink in it, upon which depends the ' construction of the beads and hydrometer for ascertaining the specific gravity of spirits. From these principles, we can easily find the weight of a ship or any other body that swims in water, for if the number of cubic feet which are under the surface, be multiplied by the number

J AMI E S On|s Impv o v e d .. ASSISTANT. 303 of pounds in a foot of fresh or salt water, the 'product will be the weight of ship and all that is in it, for since it is the weight of the ship that displaces the water, it must continue to sink, until it has removed as much water as equal its weight; and therefore the part immersed must be equal in bulk to such a portion of the water, as is equal to the weight of the ship, &c. Of the Hydrometer. The hydrometer is one of the most useful in- struments of the philosophic kind ever invented, ,for ease and expedition in finding the specific .‘gravities of fluids, acids, &c. They are generally made of copper, ivory and brass, which soon corrode; there are also a great number of weights, called weather weights, necessary to regulate them, according to the degree of heat and temperature of the fluid, for which cause, and the high price they are generally sold at, among spirit dealers they are but partially used; and the glass beads, salthough inconvenient and incorrect, are generally used in their stead. I have seen a hydrometer newly invented by Mr. Wm. Jamieson of Glasgow, which in my o- ;pinion, is far superior to any that has yet been 1‘invented, and not exceeding half the price; it requires no weather weights, and from the nature of the materials it is made of, will not corrode, ;and shews the specific gravity of any fluid with the greatest degree of accuracy and exactness. ?As I consider this instrument to be of the great- [est utility to spirit dealers, and from my high 304- spirit dealer’s opinion of Mr. Jamieson’s abilities, 1 have given an engraving of the instrument, and a full ex- planation how it ought to be used. This hydrometer consists of three parts, and the tin case for trying the spirits, as represented in the Plate, Fig. 1, 2, 3, 4 ; the stem of Fig. 1 is graduated from proof spirits at the bottom, by per cents, to 60 per cent, over proof on the top. The stem of Fig. 2. is graduated from proof spirits at the top, by per cents, down to 60 per cent, under proof at the bottom. Fig. 3 is a continuation under proof, beginning at 60 on the top, and graduated downward to 120 per cent, under proof, giving in its range as from one data, the specific gravity of proof spirits, acids, and all other liquids with precision. Fig. 4, is a tin case into which the liquor is put, on the top of which at E, is fixed a keeper, into which the stem of the hydrometer is put to keep it in the centre; under F is a glass, the focus of which suits the indicator on the stem, so that the parts of a cent, may be easily discerned. Along with this instrument, Mr. Jamieson has given a scale for showing the strength of spirits, with a folding joint and a thermometer fixed into it; by this hinge the lower part of the scale folds up, in order that the bulb may be applied to the ascertaining of the temperature of acids; also along with the instrument, is a printed table particularly adapted to spirit dealers. I have only to say, that this instrument for facility in using, exceeds any thing of the kind yet in use, as it needs no weights to bring it to the intended gravity, but when the bulb is put ASSISTANT. 305 into the liquor it will sink of itself, without any appendage whatever, shewing the exact gravity on the index. Spirit dealers may have a bulb from 20 per cent, under proof to 30 per cent, over proof, which is sufficient for any ordinary dealer, 2 bulbs being absolutely necessary for distillers and rectifiers, the other being adapted for acids, &c. Proof spirits, or common saleable goods, are spirits of any kind of a determinate strength, as they are usually sold at the distillery, containing equal quantities of rectified spirits and water. The common way of judging the due strength, is by striking the bottom of the sample phial, filled half-way with common malt spirit, with the palm of the hand, the bubbles raised on the surface will go off again in a strong manner, without breaking or swelling, and this is the method constantly used by traders; it is said to be fallacious, and easily open to deception, for, if a little treacle, syrup, &c. be added to a quantity of highly rectified spirit, it will give apparent proof to that spirit. Perfect proof is that crown of bubbles before mentioned, of a certain size, arising as a head, upon a small quantity of a well-qualified spirit shaken in a slender phial. Proof more than perfect, is that in which the bubbles raised by shaking the spirits, are longer than those on the common or perfect proof, and go off more suddenly; that is, according as the spirit is higher, or approaches more to the nature of rectified spirit, or as is usually called, spirit of wine. b b 3 306 SPIRIT DEALER’S Proof less than perfect, is that wherein the bubbles are smaller, and go off quicker and faint- er than in perfect proof; the spirit in this case, being mixed with more than its own quantity of phlegm, or being too poor for sale. The most exact of all methods of determining the strength of any spirit is by distillation, rectifying it up to alcohol, or totally inflammable spirit; but this, though liable to no error, is too tedious to come into common use, and upon the whole, the best method of all others seems to be that of deflagration, namely, by setting it on fire; if, after it will no longer burn, the remainder is half as much as the quantity measured out for the trial was, then the spirit tried is found to consist of half water, and half totally inflammable spirit; that is, exactly ^jer/eri proof, and according as the remainder is more or less than half the original quantity, it is so much below, or so much above proof, or the due strength of brandy. In commerce, with regard to spirits, it would certainly be a much better method to abolish such uncertain proofs, and to make all the goods of the strength of what is called spirit of wine; that is a totally inflammable spirit, whose purity is much greater, whose strength may always be found with exactness, and whose bulk, stowage, carriage and incumbrance, would be only half in regard to that of proof spirits; and it might at all times, as occasion called for it, be mixed in a great variety of extemporaneous liquors, and the exact degree of strength would be always precisely known. The advantages of this method would be yet greater to apothecaries, to the makers of com- ASSISTANT. 307 pound cordial waters, who want only a pure spirit of such a strength, and suffer greatly in the i fineness and perfection of their commodities, by the spirit they are obliged to use, having in it a fulsome and nauseous oil of its own, which will always mix itself with their compositions, and i the oils of the aromatics, &c. which they add to S' it. If spirits were brought to this standard for l the market, there would be no possibility of deceit, « and no farther examination need be made of ? it by the buyer, than its burning perfectly dry in a spoon. That proof, which is called bubble-proof, may also be prevented from rising by tobacco smoking, heat of the hand on the phial, heat of the room, hard water, or water that will not lather i soap, &c. OF CALCULATING THE STRENGTH OF SPIRITS. Calculations for reducing over proof spirits to {| proof, and from a lower to a higher degree of ti, strength, will be found of great use to spirit • i dealers, distillers, and rectifiers, in equalizing s all the different degrees of strength that may be t found in their stock. ; To reduce over ■proof Spirits to proof. v Rule—Divide the quantity of spirits by the i strength, which add thereto, and the sum of d both will be proof spirits. Suppose 60 gallons 1 to 3 or 331 per cent. over proof, what quantity of proof spirits will be produced? SPIRIT DEALER’S Example Irf. 3)6020 water.gallons, 1 to 3 over proof. 80 gallons proof spirit. Suppose 120 gallons 1 to 5 or 20 percent. over proof, what quantity of proof spirits will be produced? Example ‘id. 5)12024 water.gallons 1 to 5 over proof. 164 gallons proof spirit. Note.—In the first example it will require 20 gallons water to reduce 60 gallons 1 to 3 over proof to proof, and in the second example it will require 24 to reduce 120 gallons 1 in 5 over proof to proof, &c. To bring Spiritsfrom under prof to proof. Rule.—Divide by the figure they are under proof, which subtracted from the quantity, the remainder is proof spirits, and that subtracted is water. Suppose 96 gallons 1 in 6 or 16£ per cent. under proof, how many gallons proof spirits will be produced ? Example \st. 6)9616 gallonswater. 1 in 6 under proof. 80 gallons proof spirits. Suppose 164 gallons 1 in 7 or 14% per cent. under proof, how many gallons proof spirits will be produced ? ASSISTANT. Example 2d. 7)164 gallons 1 in 7 underproof. 23® water. 140 4 proof spirits. Note.—To bring that to any higher degree of • strength divide by the next figure to which [ strength you want to have it. For example, if : you want to bring it to 1 to 3 over proof, divide » 1 in 6 under proof, reduced to proof, by 4, which ! subtract from the quantity, and the remainder ; is 1 to 3 over proof, because every fourth gal- Ion is water. In example 1st, 96 gallons, 1 in 6 under proof, reduced to proof, produces 80 ' gallons proof spirits; then—80 gallons proof spi- | rits reduced to 1 to 3 over proof, produces 60 gallons at that strength, &c. Example Isf. 4)80 gallons proof spirits. 160 gallons 1 to 3 over proof. : Suppose the above 80 gallons proof spirits ; were to be reduced to 1 to 2 ov 50 per cent, over ; proof, divide by 3, which is the next figure to S the proof wanted. Example. 3)80 gallonswater. proof spirits. SSf gallons 1 to 3 over proof. ■ Of reducing Spirits to glass proof by the per centage. Rule.—Add the per centage to the number of 310 SPIRIT DEALER’S gallons, and divide by 9, add the product to the sum, and that product is glass proof. Suppose 100 gallons of spirits is 15 per cent. over proof, how much water will be required to reduce it to glass proof ? Example 1st. 10015 gallons. 9)11512—7 Rem. 127 gallons glass proof, Suppose 60 gallons of spirits is 25 per cent. over proof, how much water will be required to reduce it to glass proof. Example 2c?. 6025 gallons. 9)8594—Rem. 94 gallons glass proof. Note.—The reason for dividing by 9 is, that by Act 39th Geo. III. C. 7. no distiller or rectifier in Scotland shall sell or send out any British spirits of a greater degree of strength than that of 1 to 10 over hydrometer proof, &c. and 9 is the next number to the strength wanted. Suppose 130 gallons glass proof spirits, how much spirits will be produced \.8 per cent, over proof? ASSISTANT. 311 Example. 10)13013 gallons glass proof. 13 per cent 99 gallons 18 per cent, over proof. Note —Here the 130 gallons is divided by 10, because 1 to 10 is the original strength, &c. I presume that these examples are sufficient for shewing the method of reducing spirits of every description from one degree of strength to another. Of strengthening, improving Whisky and making it carry a bead. There are various ways of raising the proof of spirits, viz. by adding a little honey before filtration, alum or potash, sulphate of copper, (blue stone,) soda, white soap, &c. It also appears by the examination of Mr. Alex. Miller, spirit dealer in Glasgow, before the Honourable House of Commons, that spirits are made to appearance stronger than they really are, by the proportion ■ of about one tea spoonful of the oil of vitriol, and two of the oil of almonds, put into a puncheon of I spirits, and strongly stirred to impregnate the ; whole, this will make the spirits appear 5 per f cent, stronger than they really are; but it makes | the spirits bluish and muddy, which must be ; carried off by filtration, this mixture is greatly used in foreign spirits. 312 SPIRIT DEALER’S Mr. Hyslop, Dumfries, stated that the hydrometer wouJd detect this mixture in part, but not fully. Dr. Rotherham, St. Andrews, stated that the addition of aniseed, cassia-buds, angelica, gentian, &c. was beneficial for covering the bad flavour of spirits. George Skene Keith, Kintyre, stated that the sweet spirit of nitre gives spirits the most pleasant flavour; these ingredients are wholesome, but if over done, will not have the intended effect; to strengthen whisky use a little of the spirit of wine. Note.—If potash powdered, made red hot and cooled, be put among whisky, it will absorb the . water and leave the residue alcohol, which may be poured off. Of flavouring Whisky. When any particular flavour is to be given to whisky, if the flavouring ingredient is an oil, it must be,beat up and killed with a little of nitric aether and loaf sugar, to prevent its swimming on the top; if roots, they must be infused among the spirits. All sorts of flavouring ingredients will be found in the apothecaries shops. The flavour of malt spirits will be highly improved by putting 3 ounces of finely powdered charcoal, and 4 ounces of ground rice in- to a gallon of spirits, and so in proportion, and let it stand for some time, stirring it frequently. If common raw spirits have any bad taste ASSISTANT. 313- )r flavour, by throwing into 10 gallons, and so in proportion, a few handfuls of powdered charcoal, it will deprive it of its bad taste and flavour, >ut it will return again if kept long in the cask. % If a slice of loaf bread be toasted brown and Iropt in the cask, it will take away the bad flavour of spirits for a few days. Nitric aether also has the effect of taking away the flavour of spirits. Note.—All spices, peppery and hot, having no mrticular taste of thei^ own, may be used to lake whisky hot and biting, such as Indian pepper, l-oot, &c. Of taking the blackness off Whisky. If at any time whisky should be black of the colour, received from the cask or otherwise, put Into it a few spoonfuls of sweet milk according to the quantity of spirits, the milk will precipitate ind carry all the blackness to the bottom. Of taking the whiteness off" Whisky: If whisky should at a/iy time turn white and !turbid, either agitate it with charcoal powder, ■or put it through a charcoal filter, when it will ?t>e clear and transparent. Of making Whisky silent. To make whisky silent, bury the cask or jar inder ground for some time, when it will lose its jfiery taste, be pleasant and agreeable. A'ote.—Spirit dealers should be careful in SPIRIT DEALER’S 314 keeping their spirits always cool, as heat has the effect of reducing greatly the strength of the spirits; and casks, jars, &c. holding spirits should be kept as close as possible, to prevent the spirits from evaporating, and the water used should be as soft as possible, or that which lathers soap most freely. There are vast quantities of whisky distilled in Scotland, ending January 1824, there were 2,660,632 gallons distilled in Scotland, the population being 2,093,456, which was more than a gallon and a half to each individual!! Foreigners would be ready to suppose that they were a nation of drunkards!! In Glasgow alone, by Mr. Cleland’s calculation, there is a public house for every 20 families 11 CYDER and PERRY. Cyder is a pleasant beverage made from apples, and is made very plentifully in some dis- tricts in England. It would be a great improvement to many estates, to cultivate on the grounds not fit for corn, the proper sorts of apples fit for the making of cyder. As it is a marketable commodity at all times, and costs nothing for fuel to brew it; and the labour is but once a year. The greater the quantities are that are made together, the better it usually succeeds; but the vessels should also be large in which it is kept. In this case, it will not only keep many years, but will improve all the time. Besides, there is another advantage, a man may do this without being considered as a trader, or within the bankrupt laws, he may exercise &15 ASSISTANT. , any manufacture from the produce of his own , land, as a necessary or usual mode of reaping or ii enjoying that produce, and bringing it to the j market in the most advantageous manner, and , he shall not be considered as a trader, though le buy the necessary ingredients and materials < to fit it for the market; for this is the usual way sf enjoying the produce of the land advan- .!; tageously in the cyder counties in England; .1 jut where the produce of the land is merely the I kaw material of a manufacture, and used as such, | find not according to the usual mode of enjoying the land, in short, where the produce of the land is an insignificant article in comparison of the whole expense of the manufacture, there he pught to be considered as a trader. If this doctrine apply to the makers of cyder, the clauses in their statutes which establish them to be dealers, factors, or retailers, must be understood with a qualification, that they are so deemed, only with respect to their being made liable to excise duties, and not in any other Pifeense. | Perry is made from pears, in the same manner ids cyder is made from apples, the fruit must be J|jroperly ripe; some mix crab fruit to amend the l|iquor. The best fruit for making perry, is that [which is least fit for eating. Such as the Bos- bury, the Horse, the Barcland, Red Stroked iPippins, Pearmains, Pennetings, Golden Pippins-, fend the Squash Pears. The Bosbury is thought to yield the most lasting and vinous liquor, the John and Harpary, the Drake, the Mary, and the Lullum pears, and several others of a harsh- c c 2 316 SPIRIT DEALER’S er kind, are esteemed the best for perry, and always the redder the better. Apples of a bitterish taste produce the most vinous and strongest cyder. Note.—Proper care must be taken not to mix summer and winter fruit together. A duty on cyder and perry was first established by 12th Ann, st. 1, cap. 2, s. 1, which duty was but trifling, but the duties jiave been raised from time to time up to the present; so that now they produce a considerable sum to the revenue. Some seasons there are large quantities of cyder and perry made in England; in 1792, there was made 2,310,588 gallons, the duty amounted to £27,042; and in 1822, the quantity made was 1,035,531 gallons, the duty on which was £25,4'87, from which may be seen the progres- sive rise upon that article alone. In 1822, there was 1,275,057 gallons less made than in 1792, and if £1,555 more duty had been charged, the charge would have been equal to that of 1792, although 1,275,057 gallons less were made; so much for peace and the reduction of taxes!! In Herefordshire and other cyder counties in England, where cyder making is carried on upon an extensive scale, the apples are put into a large circular tun, into which are two broad rollers moving upon a pivot, and drawn by one horse, who goes round the outside, while the rollers revolve round, the inside. Into this tun the apples are put, and when the rollers turn round, a sweep goes before them, which gathers the unbruised apples always in before the rollers. Some have a way for the liquor to run off into a ASSISTANT. 317 fermenting tun from the rolling and mashing tun, and some carry the pulp from it to the lever press, which sqeezes out and runs off the whole of the juice, and leaves the refuse almost dry; but if you wish to have your cyder stronger than by the common method of making it, put your apples into a lever press, squeeze them slightly, when the liquor will run off into the working tub, tun, or cask, i Note l.s£.—Vats of lead have been used in some cyder countries, and which produced incal- culable mischief, what is called the Devonshire cholic is occasioned by this practice. Note 2d Apple trees were first brought Tom Syria and Africa into Italy, 9 years before Christ. Of making Cyder. ls£. Take a mixture of the different kinds of | apples, viz. the bosbury, horse, red streaked pippins, pearmains, golden pippins, &c. when itheJthey tree, are withso ripe ease, that upon they a smallmay bescale; shaken grind from or jljbruise them very small, and when they are be- Icome a mash put them into a bag of hair, and squeeze them out by degrees; then put the liquor thus strained through a fine hair sieve in- to a cask well matched and fumigated, then rniash and stir the pulp with a little warm water; jknd when all the juice is pressed out add a {fourth part of water to the juice to make it rwork kindly. Beat a little honey and the whites l»f three or four eggs and a little flour together, cc3 318 SPIRIT dealer’s put them into a fine linen rag, and let them | hang down by a string to the middle of the cy- j der cask, then add a pint of new ale yeast, pret- | ty warm, and let it ferment, purge, and fine itself for six days, then drain it off into smaller !j casks or bottles, as may be thought proper; if it t be bottled, leave the liquor an inch short of the ! corks, lest by the fermentation the bottles may j burst. If there be any danger it may be easily ! known by the hissing noise of the gas escaping j through the corks, when it will be necessary ; to slack them a little, that the gas may escape | more freely. In winter cover up the bottles to i keep them warm, but in summer place them in as cool a place as can be got, lest the heat should j create a fermentation and burst the bottles, or | the liquor may become musty and ill-tasted. I In order to make it feed and preserve its ] strength, put a small bit of loaf sugar into j each bottle, which will greatly improve it, &c. j To make Cyder. Id. Take parrys, barclands, and squash, before 1 they are fully ripe, and let them lie a day or : two in a heap to sweat, then grind them and ' squeeze out the juice, and put it into a cask or j other vessel, the size being in proportion to the ' quantity of liquor, leaving it sufficient room to work; let it have no vent, but at a small hole j near the hoops ; add to it four pounds of raisins | and two pounds of sugar to make it work and | fine, then rack it off; and in order to fine and j mellow it add a pint of finings to thirty gallons, 1 iSSISTANT. 319 draw it off into a small cask, and stop it close, leaving a small hole, as before, to prevent its working after being racked off; then put into the cask a few raisins to feed upon and keep it lively ; bottle it about the month of March, when it will be fine. To make Raisin Cyder. Take of raisins, with the stalks, li> pounds, wash them out in a number of waters till the water becomes clear, then put them into a well rinsed cask with the head out, and put 6 gal- ! Ions of fair water to them, then cover it close up, and let it stand 12 days, when it is to be racked off into another cask, which has a cock in it; in 6 days after bottle it off, and when it is 8 days more in the bottle it will be fit for use. , But when putting it into the cask a second time, a little colouring should be added, which will give it a fine appearance. This is an excellent ; drink for summer. After the process is over, ! the raisins may be used in the making of vine- | gar. (See Vinegar Making.) Note.—If cyder and perry be bottled in hot weather, it should be left a day or two uncorked, t j that it may flatten a little. But if it get too flat ;j in the cask, and soon wanted for use, put into | the mouth of each bottle a small piece of sugar I candy, three or four raisins, or a small piece of f raw beef, any of which will much improve the | liquor and make it brisk. Cyder should be well I corked, wired, and packed upright in a cool | place. A few bottles may be kept in a place 320 SPIRIT DEALER’S somewhat warmer, if wanted soon ripe and ready for use. Of the management cf Cyder. When the juice of the apples appears not to be well purified it soon corupts, the dregs which remain mixed with the liquor, being small pieces of apples, giving the cyder a very unpleasant and rotten taste. In order to purify it, use isinglass finings; and also to improve the flavour and fine it at the same time, take French brandy, cochineal, alum, and candy sugar, bruise them in a mortar, and infuse them in the brandy for two days, and mix the whole with the cyder, and stop it close up for five or six months, after which it will be fine, and may be bottled for use. Note.—In order to prevent cyder from becoming sour, put a little mustard into it when in the cask. Of Corking and Preserving Cyder in Bottles. One thing very necessary for cyder, is good corks, and if soaked before using in scalding hot water, they will be more pleasant and better for the purpose; by laying the bottles on their sides, so that the liquor may keep the corks wet and swelled, will preserve it. OF SHRUB. Shrub is a very pleasant and an agreeable drink, and the best is made from rum in the ASSISTANT. 321 West Indies; there is some also made in this country from whisky; although it is very good, it is not nearly equal to that made from rum. To make Rum Shrub, lih Take 2 gallons of rum, 10 pounds of sugar, and £ gallon lime juice, dissolve the sugar in the lime juice, then mix it all with the rum, after which set it in a bottle or cask to settle, when fit will become mellow. This will make excellent launch. To make Rum Shrub. 2d. Take 1 gallon of rum, | gill of the essence of imes, 1 pound 8 ounces of brown sugar, 1 pint )f lime juice, and one gallon of water. Boil the ivater and sugar together 20 minutes, then scum it, and when cold add to it a little isinglass md the white of an egg beat together with a little )f the essence of lemons, mix it well with the um, then let it settle, when it may be bottled or use. I Note.—Any quantity may be made by increasing or diminishing the ingredients in equal ■jroportion. This is an excellent receipt for publicans. And if whisky shrub is wanted, jvhisky may be substituted in place of rum. 322 SPIRIT DEALER’S To make Rum Shrub. 3d. Take 2 gallons of rum, 3 pints orange juice, 2 quarts of orange or currant wine, 2J pounds of loaf sugar, and 1 gallon 1 pint water, mix the whole together, and when fine, bottle it for use. Half orange and lemon juice may be added, but if the orange juice is good, it gives the shrub a better flavour ; then when mixed, a small quantity of the essence of lemons may be added, which will greatly improve the flavour. The sugar should be boiled in clear spring water, and the scum taken off, and when it is cold mix it with the other ingredients. To make Brandy Shrub. 1st. Take 1 gallon of brandy, 1 gallon 1 quart orange juice, and 8 pounds of loaf sugar, mix the whole well together, till the sugar is dissolved ; put it into a cask, and let it stand till fine, when it may be bottled off for use. To make Brandy Shrub. 2d. Take 2 gallons of brandy, and put into it the juice of 20 lemons and the peels of 8, also 2 nutmegs, stop it up, and let it stand 4 days, then add to it 3 gallons of white wine and 6 pounds of sugar, mix it and strain it twice through a filtering bag, when it may be put in bottles, j This is an excellent dram. ASSISTANT. 323 To make Whisky Shrub. Take 9 pounds of single refined sugar, put it into a small barrel, and pour into it lemon and orange juice, of each 1 quart, stir it with a staff, and shake it till the sugar is dissolved; take 4 or 5 dozen of the orange and lemon peels, and pour some whisky upon them, and let it stand ;until it is to be put into the barrel. When the jsugar is completely dissolved, put into the barrel 5 gallons of whisky or more, and add the Iwhisky into which the rinds was steeped. But [before the barrel is full, bung and shake it hast- ily, so that it may be well mixed, then put in (the rest of the liquor. Bung it up, and let ;it stand 6 months before piercing it, if it is iot then fine, let it stand a week or two longer. Note.—In the above receipts, rum, brandy or Whisky may be used, and named accordingly. Of Spruce Beer. Spruce beer is a most excellent cooling drink, id a good restorative for those who have been* ■inking too freely of ardent spirits, and may be lade at a very easy rate. The process is so mple, that there are few but what may have t in their power to make it. Of brewing Spruce Beer. 1st, To make 9 gallons, take 9 gallons of water, pounds of treacle, 1 pint, 2 gills of the es- nce of spruce or less will do, 2 gills of good ale least, half an ounce of isinglass, cut small and dis- 324. SPIRIT DEALER’S solved into a jelly, with a little sour cyder or perry. First, boil the water and mix the treacle with it, and put it into a cask when nearly cold, mix up the spruce with a little of the water, and put it into the cask along with the yeast, then stir it well about and let it work with the bung out four days, after which put in the isinglass dissolved, to fine it, and stir it well about, bung it close, and in a fortnight bottle it off1 for use. Of brewing Spruce Beer. Id. Take 8 gallons of water and bpil the half of it, and put the other half into a barrel, add the one half, when boiling, to that which is cold, then add 8 pounds of treacle with a few table spoonfuls of the essence of spruce, stir the whole w ell together, and add 2 gills of good ale yeast, (barm,) and keep it in a temperate situation with the bung out for two or three days till the fer- j mentation be abated, then bung it up or bottle it | off, when it will be fit to drink in a few days. Aote.—In North America and other countries where the black and white spruce are plentiful, instead of adding the essence of spruce at the same time with the molasses, they make a decoction of the leaves and top twigs of the trees, and ferment it, when the liquor made thus is found to be equally as good as if the essence was used. lo this country where spruce firs abound, if in spring when the firs are in full growth, a sufficient quantity were taken, .and put into a proper vessel, and scalding hot water poured i ASSISTANT. 325 ipon them, the decoction fermented, and the >roper quantity of sugar or treacle added, pruce beer may be had cheap and equally good ; iut if the beer is wanted to be clear and bright f the colour, loaf sugar should be used, instead f treacle or coarse sugar. N. B. Spruce beer should be drawn off into :uart stone bottles, corked and wired. Of Ginger Beer. Ginger beer when well made, is one of the iost agreeable, as well as one of the most whole- l(«ome cooling beverages that can be imagined. iThe following receipt for producing it in high perfection, will be found extremely useful during uhe warm summer months. Of brewing Ginger Beer. 1st. Take 1^ ounces of ginger, and 1 ounce cream - ff tartar, 1 pound of white sugar, put these ingredients into an earthen vessel, and pour upon hem a gallon of boiling water, when cold add a ible spoonful of yeast, (barm,) and let the whole land 12 hours, skim it, bottle it, and keep it iree days in a cool place before it be drunk; je particular that the corks are sound and good, md secure them with wire or twine. I A’oie.—-By increasing or diminishing the in- [redients, any quantity can be made. Of brewing Ginger Beer. Vd. • [ To every gallon of spring water add 1 ounce 326 SPIRIT DEALER’S of sliced white ginger, 1 pound of common loaf« sugar, and 2 ounces of lemon juice, boil it near j, an hour and skim it, then run it through a hair ) sieve into a convenient vessel, and when cooled i down to 70 degrees Fahrenheit’s thermometer, or ii blood heat nearly, add yeast in the proportion of * 2 gills to 9 gallons, keep it in a temperate sitiia- k tion two or three days, during which time it may be stirred 6 times, then put it into a cask, ■ which must be kept full, and the yeast taken off | at the bungh'ole. In a fortnight add isinglass5; finings, steeped and dissolved in beer, in the \ proportion of 2 gills to 9 gallons, which will, if it has been properly fermented, clear it by ascent. The cask must be kept full, and all the rising ! particles taken off at the bunghole. When fine, which may be in 24 hours, bottle and cork it well; in summer it will ripen and be fit for drinking in a fortnight. Wire the corks to prevent ; them flying, &c.* Of the History of the Art of Brewing. The art of brewing is doubtless of very remote origin, for ale is said to be invented 1404 years before Christ, and it was used in Egypt 450 years before that period. Mungo Park in his travels found the art of making malt and brewing from it a good beer, still practised among the negroes in the interior parts of Africa in which Egypt is situated; the time of its introduction here is uncertain. But malt liquor was^ little* Tdnutmeg improve and the cinnamon flavour mayof ginger be added. and spruceTo make beer, it ho^ a; makeafter drinking, it carry a usehead, a fewuse aof little the grainsgreen vitriol,of paradise, (copperas.) and to *\ ASSISTANT. 327 ised in Britain so early as the fifth century, and ireweries were in operation in London before he Norman conquest in 1666. They were, lowever, confined to the production of ales of iifferent qualities and strengths, the prices of fhich were regulated by the magistracy, so ear- y as the year 1256. Ale was of such repute and antiquity in Eng- and, that it is mentioned in the laws of Ina, Ling of Sussex. ? The first assize on ale was not fixed till the 11 of Henry III; it was determined by author^ }y, that when a quarter of barley was sold for !s. ale might be afforded at four quarts for Id.; Ithen barley was 2s. 6d. per quarter, then ale liras to be seven quarts for 2d. and so to in- i Tease and decrease with every variation of 6d. *er quarter upon the price of barley. it'■ The Zythum and Crumie mentioned by Tacitus, I s the beverage of the ancient Germans, are supposed by Metthiolus to correspond with our ale tnd beer, and the only difference between them ifeems to have consisted in some parts of the •oportions, which rendered the one stronger ian the other, such as our porter, ale, beer, own stout, &c. of the present day. In 1302, ground malt was sold in London at i. 4d. per quarter, but in 14 years after it rose 13s. 4d. and upwards. The best sort of ale ise to 3d. and 4d. a lagena, (flaggon or gallon^ ’iis caused a proclamation to be issued, re- ■aining the price to Id. and commanding also lat no wheat should be malted, which, according Bishop Fleetwood’s account, the Londoners 328 SPIRIT DEALER’S had been in the habit of doing, to the great consumption of corn, and sold the ale brewed from it at three halfpence a lagena; from this period for about the space of 150 years, the price fluc- tuated from Id. to l^d. per lagena. Beer, though of a later date, yet as a malt liquor claims the honour of antiquity, for in Scotland it was used in 1482, and in England in 1492. Henry VII. granted a license to a Flem- ing for the exportation of 50 tons of ale called beer. In 1504, according to Rhymer, vol. xii. p. 471 and 485, the ale of London was sold at £l, 10s., per datium, and beer £l, 3s. 4d. per datium. \ The datium, says Fleetwood in his chronicles, does signify a pipe or butt, which contains 126 ! gallons, so that ale at this price comes to near j 3d. and the beer to rather more than 2^d. per gallon. In Arnold's Chronicle, a work published I by Pynson about 1521, the following recipe for ' making beer is given. “ Ten quarters of make, j two quarters of whete, two quarters of oates, and eleven pounds of hoppys, to make eleven; barrls of sengyll beer.” It is probable that the use of beer was not generally introduced till the! reign of Henry VII. in whose time the breweries, j which then stood upon the banks of the Thames at St. Catherines, and distinguished in the map given in the Civitatis Orhis by the name of Beer-houses, were twice spoiled by the King’s officers, either for sending too great a quantity abroad unlicenced, or for brewing it too weak | for home consumption. In the 23d of Henry j VIII. the brewers were restrained by statute | ASSISTANT. 329 from making more than two sorts of beer, viz. the strong and the double, and it was ordered that the first sort should be sold at 3s. 4d. per barrel, and the double at 6s. 8d. and not above. Notwithstanding of the statute, the prices continued to rise gradually, till in 1591 the Lord Mayor, Sir John Allot, issued a proclamation Tequiring the brewers to return to the rates pre- scribed by law. The brewers’ company feeling aggrieved at the order, petitioned the Lord High Treasurer, Lord Burleigh, to interfere, and fix such reasonable prices as might enable them to Kbtain a living by their trade, and secure for the letropolis a supply of this highly necessary ar- Ile of consumption. The following is an ex- ,ct of the petition, which is curious, as it shows i price of various articles used in brewing, mpared to what they had been, and what they S now. After stating the rates of Henry VIII. the titioners state, “ At which prices and rates ur said orators considering the price of malt ing now 13s. per quarter, the great price of ps being from £3, 16s. 8d. to £4, 10s. per 100 i. such 100 lbs. were sold formerly for 6s. 8d. ly, and in quality well worth 300 lbs of the esent day; the price of barrels being now 22s. ough formerly 9s.; coals being 24s. to 26s. r chaldron, though lately but from 12s. to s.; the great and excessive prices of all man- r of victuals and charges of house-keeping, the! jh and extravagant rent of houses, far exceed- g that given when the rates of Henry VIII. ;re fixed; are no longeT able to sell such good D d 3 11 330 SPIRIT DEALER’S and wholesome ale and beer as is fit for the said city, to be used withal, but at the expense of their own utter outdoing.” What effect the the petition had, does not appear, but it seems that during the whole reign of Elizabeth, the de- mand from foreign countries for English beer continued to increase, and that the liberty of export was only occasionally checked by the occurrence of scarcity or dearth at home. During the succeeding reigns to the present time, as the wants of the state have become more urgent, new duties have been imposed upon malt and hops, by which it is well known a large revenue is raised to government, the malt liquor considerably raised, and I may say without hesitation, that this is one of the principal branches of the British revenue. In some parts of England there seems to be an attempt to reduce the price of beer at the present time, (1824) by small or what is called retail brewers. At Reading, a Mr. Adams a retail brewer, serves the people, who flock to him in great numbers, with beer at 3d. a quart, much better than the common brewers generally sell at 5d. a quart, which is considerable, as one Id. more would buy 2 quarts bf Mr. Adams’ beer. Of the brewing of malt liquor in Britain and Ireland, we can have but a small idea, but the following circumstances will give us some notion of the London breweries. Some years ago, when one of Sir Samuel Whitbread’s daughters was to to be led to the altar of Hymen, the portion Sir Samuel was to give the bride was only the old hoops of his porter casks, but mark what was ASSISTANT. 331 the value of them, £50,000!! Also a cask at Messrs. Meaux & Co.’s, Liquor Pond Street, London, is 650^ feet diameter, 25 feet high, and has 56 iron hoops from one to three tons each, contains 20,000 barrels of porter, at 30s. each, consists of 314 staves of English oak, 2J inches thick, was four years building, and cost £10,000!! \ This, although it is true, is almost incredible. • Some years ago, one of the vats in a London i brewery gave way, and the liquor flowed with : such impetuosity, that the stones with which the streets were paved were completely raised and | carried away, some houses were undermined and ' fell, by which a number of people lost their lives, 'and by being overtaken with the flood!! The London Brewers’ Company was incorpo- , rated by Henry VI. in the year 1438; the chosen »patrons of the company were the Virgin Mary I and St. Thomas a Bechet, and they originally Shore the arms of the saint impaled with their own, but after he had been unsainted, and his bones taken up and burned by order of Henry VIII. the arms were separated, and/the brewers had a new crest granted to them in lieu of the bearings of the saint. From the above historical account of brewing, we may see that ale or beer was thought in olden times to be of so little consequence, that the Imonarchs contented themselves with only fixing the rate or price to be paid by their lieges for the same, and no rate of excise attached to it un- it till the year 1643r when it was imposed by the 4 Parliament, and a bill passed, Nov. 25th, 1690, u which duties have been progressively raised from S32 SPIRIT dealer’s time to time, and we now see the enormous 1 price we have that precious beverage raised to, j by the excessive and extravagant impositions laid upon malt, hops and liquor. Of Brewing. By brewing is meant the extracting by infu- j sion a tincture from some vegetable substance, j or dissolving it in hot water, by which means it j becomes proper for drink or vinous fermentation. | In Scotland and England, malt for its cheapness is generally preferred, although it but imperfect- i ly dissolves in water. A solution or tincture of this kind may be ! procured from any vegetable substance, but the j more readily and completely it dissolves in water, J the better it is fitted for fermentation, and if ap- | plied to the making of spirits, the greater the j produce. 0/' choosing Malt. Good malt may be chosen by its sweet smell, mellow taste, and round body; thin skinned fine coated barley is the best for making malt, if it be quite ripe. Land that is highly manured does not produce barley so fit for malting as that which is rich in a moderate degree without manure, also land that is extra luxuriant, either by art or nature, does not produce barley fit for the maltster. Those who purchase barley for malt, should | never purchase that which grows on various soils, ; ASSISTANT. 333 | no, not even in different fields, for this reason, I the kernes would germinate or sprout at different [ times, which would make the malt very deficient | in quality. In England and Ireland tythe barley j‘ should never be bought, but in Scotland there is I less danger of running into that evil. I have seen an account of a maltster in England having I bought 100 quarters of tythe barley without I knowing it was so, discovered it in the malting, < and sold it to one who kept hogs, for a consider- | able sum less than he purchased it at, which he T considered out of two evils this was the least up- a on the bargain. ■, Of discovering mixed Barley in the Malting. In the making of malt, to discover whether it !is made from unripe or mixed barley, take two handfuls of malt and throw it into a bowl full of water and stir it gently, the grains which have not been properly malted will sink, and the half malted grains will only sink in the one end, and so [swim in a perpendicular position, those that are perfectly malted will swim, but the best barley will not malt equally at all times; it will not comalt well before sweating, nor while it is in sweat, Jibut after the sweating is ceased, then it will alt well. Of extracting the Essence of Malt. When the brewing is over and the infusion rawn off from the grains, shake a small quantity f unslaked lime over them, with two or three 334. SPIRIT DEALER’S of the roots of horse radish, this will draw out all , the remaining substance out of the malt, and J will make a less quantity go farther than other- j wise it would do. Barley that remains in the fields, until the | rain falls on it to loosen the husks from the ker- 1 nels, will malt well and yield a good increase; i but barley that has been got in early in a very j dry season, malts but very indifferently, and the J increase is not so large. Wheat is said to produce more spirit than barley, and rye more than wheat, but both these are prohibited in this country. Malt, if made to the greatest advantage, should I be justly malted and well ground, for if too little j malted it will be hard and flinty, by which only | a small part of it will dissolve in the water; and on the other hand, if too much malted, a great part of the finer particles or fermentable matter will be lost in the operation; and with regard to grinding it should be reduced to a kind of coarse meal, not too small lest it might cake, or too coarse, and thereby lose part of its extract. In i the malting of barley, the water should be changed oftenest in spring and harvest when the weather is something warm; if it is left too long at these seasons of the year to steep in the same water, the water will grow slimy, and sometimes sour; the maltster should therefore notice the change of the water, and when he finds it oily and smooth to the touch, or having a sour taste or smell, it must be changed immediately. The grain will generally be sufficiently swelled in two or three days, according to the state of ( i ASSISTANT. 335 ithe weather, will become tender and tinge the water of a bright reddish brown colour; when :he water is drained away, and the barley spread ibout two feet thick on the floor, where it heats ^spontaneously, and begins to grow by first shoot- ing out the radical, in this state the germina- tion is checked, by the mailman spreading it ;hinner, and turning it over for two days, when ft is again put into a heap and suffered to be- ocome sensibly hot, which happens in about 24. trhours. It is then conveyed to the kiln, where by 5 a gradual and slow heat, it is rendered dry and lijtrisp; it is then termed unground malt, and its iijualities differ according as it is more or less iCjoaked, drained, germinated, dried, baked, &c. Note.—It is said, that if the beet root be dried .m the same manner as malt, after the juice is awessed out, very good beer might be made from it. [ Mailmen often make a mystery of their pro- ; 8! esses, no doubt from views of profit, while some i, thers pretend to peculiar secrets, who in reality iciossess none, but in this as in every thing else, jocperience is the best schoolmaster. [; Malt is made to change its colour by the dif- aibrent degrees of heat it receives in the drying ythe drying of the malt that liquor of any kind ‘generally derives its flavour, and also its colour, pxcept the tincture extracted by infusion, be ^stilled into ardent spirit, when it comes over j Colourless. Upon the proper malting, mashing or . ietting, and fermentation, the whole depends; (nd it is by these alone being properly conducted lat both the quantity and quality of the liquor s increased, and none but those who are in the ractice of brewing and distilling, would believe ow great the difference both in quantity and uality will be at times, when every minutiae is 338 SPIRIT DEALER’S attended to, and every thing managed with pro-1 priety and to the best advantage. Note.—If the heavy tax were off the malt, it might be sold at the same price of barley, as a quarter of barley will produce as much more malt over the measure as would pay the expenses of malting. Of the properties of the Water necessary. The next thing to be attended to is, that the water be good and proper for extracting the whole tincture or substance fit for fermentation, out of the malt. I think that rain water is the best adapted for brewing, for it not only extracts the tincture out of the malt better than any other, but it abounds much in fermentable parts, which greatly quickens the operation and increases the quantity of spirit. The next to rain water, is the water of rivers and lakes, particularly that which washes any large tract of fertile country, or receives the sulliage of large and populous towns. This may be the reason why the porter, ale and beer of London is superior to any other; and it is well known, that the liquor produced at Sir Samuel Whitbread’s brewery is much esteemed through all the world. Mr. Stevenson, engineer, is of opinion, that the waters of the Thames seldom changes, but] are probably carried up and down with the turn of alternate tides, for an indefinite period, whichi he is of opinion, may be one, if not the principal cause, of what is termed the extreme softness of the Thames; be this as it may, it appears that it ] uits well for the process of brewing. ASSISTANT. 339 Hard water may be used, if exposed to the un in a wide shallow cistern or reservoir, with a ittle powdered chalk or quicklime thrown into t; this is only when soft water cannot be pro- ured. Upon the whole, any water which will raise a ither upon soap may be safely used in the pro- iess of brewing. Of Hops. Hops is a plant which has a creeping root, the saves are rough, angular and conjucated, the talks climb and twist about whatever is near Item; the flowers are male and female on differ- ht plants; the male flower consists of a calyx ’fvided into five parts, which surround the Sta- lina, but has no petals to the flower, the female llants have their flowers collected into squamose tads which grow in bunches; from each of the afy scales is produced an horned ovary which tcomes a single roundish seed. The male hop is said to grow wild by the side hedges and upon banks in many parts of irope, and the young shoots are often gather- 11 by the poor, and boiled as an esculent herb; l|e female is the sort which is so greatly culti- Jj.ted in England for use, of this there are three Afferent kinds or sorts, viz. the long and square l|irlic hop, the long white hop, and the oval hop. cl Hops were first introduced into England from ‘ie Netherlands, in the year 1524), and they are j 2 rat metioned in the English statute book in 1552, shen the act was made for the encouragement £62 I SPIRIT DEALER’S of husbandry, by putting all land into tillage except land set with hops; 5 and 6 Edward 6, cap. 5. Of choosing Hops. The Farnham hops are reckoned the best, and the only way to choose them are by their bright green colour, sweet and pleasant smellj and clamminess to the feel when rubbed betwixt the hands. Of extracting the virtue of Hops. The common way of using hops is to put them in among the wort without any previous preparation, the consequence of this is, that the stronger, richer and better the wort is, the less it will partake of the essence of the hops, for the rich wort fills up the pores of the hop, and as it were varnishes the leaves, so that the liquor can scarcely extract any part or proportional" quality of the hop. But on the other hand.when the hops are put into the wort for small beer, by being of a more thin fluid nature, the pores are left open, by which the small beer is rendered bitter. To prevent this evil, the hops before they are put into strong wort should be previously soaked in a pailful of hot water. For proof of this, take a small quantity of green tea, and instead of pouring upon it simple' boiling water, let the water have the same quan-; tity of sugar boiled in it that would sweeten the same quantity of tea when made, and it will b< ' ASSISTANT. bund that the sweetness of the water will present its extracting the grateful taste of the tea. Of the Brewing Vessels. As to the size of the brewing vessels it is not naterial, except for conveniency, but for the mash tub or tun. For a copper holding 40 [allons, the mash tub ought to be as large as lold 8 bushels of malt, the cooler should be hallow and sufficiently capacious for holding (be liquor drawn from the mashing tub, &c. Of rinsing and cleansing the Casks. Cleanliness is one thing to be particularly attended to in the process of brewing. When a «ask is newly emptied, if it be well stopped to i:eep out the external air, and the sediments suf- ered to remain in it until it be wanted for use Igain, it will only need to be well scalded with ,ot water, and the hoops well fastened before it jfe filled again. But if air get into an empty lask it contracts a disagreeable smell, which the fcalding does not carry off; if this be the case, a liandful of ground pepper or ginger, boiled into me water you scald it with, will have the effect; li.ut the surest way is, if the cask has contracted ibi ill scent that cannot be removed, is to take ^he head out of the cask, shave it and burn it a ;(ttle, and when scalded, it will be fit for use. u»ut if this will not be convenient, take limestone, Gbout three pounds to the barrel, and in the 342 SPIRIT DEALER’S the same proportion for any size, add to it about 6 gallons of cold water, bung it up and shake it well for some time, then scald it well and use it, or you may match it, same as is done with wine casks, (See Matching,) and scald it, when you will find the ill smell completely removed. New casks should be sunk in the earth about half-way for ten days with the bung holes downwards, they may then be lifted and well scalded, when they will be fit for use, and there is little danger of the liquor put into them being cashed, as it is generally termed. Of Cashed Ale, Beer or Porter. When ale or beer is casked, which is generally done by new casks, to help this, take an ounce of raisins, string them on a thread, hang them in the cask, which will raise a new fermentation. Or take an ounce of black sugar, an ounce of candy sugar, or two ounces of honey, and dissolve it among a little beer, and pour it into the cask, or in lieu of these, a quantity of treacle. Like- wise, take a large handful of powdered chalk or whitening and put it into the cask, stirring it well about; magnesia mixed with the liquor will have the same effect. Of the Process of Brewing. In the process of brewing, the first thing done after the malt is prepared fbr the mashing, is to put into a tub or tun, capacious enough for the holding the quantity of malt and water with free- ASSISTANT. 343 dom. With regard to the proper quantity of wa- ' ter necessary, it must be observed, that if too ; little be used, a viscid clammy mixture will be , produced, little disposed to fermentation, or capable of extracting all the soluble parts of the malt; and on the other hand, too much water renders the infusion too thin and aqueous. There- fore, I think there may be added to each boll or half quarter of malt, from 80 to 100 gallons of water, which quantity can be increased or diminished to suit the intention of the operator. The temperature of the water in the operation of mashing, must not be equal to boiling, else ! the malt would be converted into paste or clods ; '“ by some this is termed making pudding, and fi from which a greater part of the infusion cannot i be separated, this also is by some called setting. 'i To prevent this is to add a small quantity of 3 cold water to the malt first, and mix them well It together, after which the remaining quantity of ir water necessary may be added, in a state of I boiling, or nearly so. When the proper quantity Eof water is added, the whole mass should be well stirred that all the soluble parts of the malt may often come in contact with the aqueous fluid, t which being well saturated after standing the proper time, (about 2 hours) covered up with 0 cloths, when it may be drawn off into the under- back; this is distinguished by the name of sweet as it is the strongest; the like quantity of water may be poured upon the malt, and let remain | the proper time, (1J hours,) this may be added to the foregoing, or kept apart at the option of the operator, according as he intends to make differ- 344 SPIRIT DEALER’S ent kinds of beer; a third infusion may be taken in the same way, &c. During the time of the last infusion, the copper may be filled with the first wort, into which the hops is mixed according to the quantity wanted, more or less as the beer is in strength, or about one pound of hops for each bushel of malt used, (20 gallons of wort,) the wort is then boiled with the hops, which gives it an aromatic bitter taste, and is supposed to make it less liable to be spoiled in keeping. In boiling, the extremes of under boiling or over boiling is to be avoided, as either of them would be injurious to the ale; for if not boiled enough, the liquor would taste raw, sweet, and be sickly, and of course cannot retain the virtue of the malt, neither will the drink be wholesome; on the contrary, if it be suffered to boil too long, it will thicken, and it never will fine in the casks, or be agreeable to the palate. In this case, the breaking and cruddling of the wort should be your guide; for if the wort be boiled an hour, and taken out of the copper before it be broke or cruddled, it will be mismana>- aged; therefore, after it has boiled for some time, take a little of it in a hand bowl at different times, and when you see that it is broke into small particles it is nearly ready; after a few minutes longer large flakes will be produced, this is the proper time to draw it off and put it into the coolers; and that they may be in readiness to receive the other wort which may be ready for drawing off, as soon as the first wort is drawn off, put in the second with a fresh ASSISTANT. 34.5 iuantity of hops as before; to this second mash dd for each ten gallons, one pound of treacle, which I think will be an improvement. There is me thing to be observed, that the hops must not boiled twice, and in the boiling of the second ort, the breaking and cruddling of it is the rule 'or drawing it off, as before noticed; but every ort after may only be boiled an hour nearly, 'he vessel or cooler into which the wort is drawn mst be shallow, that the liquor may be prevent- id from foxing or cooling unequally, which it is ipt to do if put into too large a body; but if there as not conveniency for this, keep stirring it until IjU is sufficiently cold for the putting in the yeast, D |(or barm.) If the different worts be added together, take proper care not to disturb the sedi- aments at the bottom of the vessels, but draw it bff as clear as possible, as the want of this precaution might cause an undue fermentation, iwhich otherwise might be avoided. The next thing to be attended to is the fermentation,. which is treated of in another place, 'See Fermentation.) To perform this, when jhe worts are cooled down to lukewarm,* take a >int of yeast for every 18 gallons of wort, put Ihe yeast in a vessel and set it to swim upon the wort, cover it up, in a very short time the vessel will work over and set the whole liquor a fer- mayi * Withbe guessed regard at toby thethe temperaturefeel of the hand, for fermentation, or if the ther- it aken,nometer but is used,this alsoabout varies 54 degreesaccording of Fahrenheit’sto the state mayof the be reather,essels are and placed. the situationI See Fermentation.) in which the fermenting 346 SPIRIT DEALER’S meriting; when you see this is the case, mix the whole well together, setting the vessel into which the yeast was contained, to swim on the surface as before, then cover it up, and in about 48 hours the liquor will be fit to tun up into the casks. But before that it be put into the casks, take off nearly all the yeast, and draw off the liquor in such a gentle manner as not to raise the sediments or disturb the bottoms; let it work in the casks seven or eight days, then bung it up loosely, and when you see that the working has completely ceased, bung it up tight with a piece of cloth about the bung; in a month it may be tapped,f but if not fine in that time, which may be known by pegging, let it remain a few weeks longer, when it will be fine, bright and pleasant. The liquor thus fermented and managed, is called beer, and differs greatly in its quality according to the nature of the grain, the malting, the mashing, the quantity, and kind of hops and yeast, the purity or admixtures of the water made use of, the length of time it is kept, the temperature and vicissitudes of the weather, &c. Besides the various qualities of malt liquor of a similar kind, there are certain leading features and names by which they are distinguished and known, viz. Beer called ale, table or small beer, brown stout, porter, &c. which is generally termed beer in London, likewise some,places and people are supposed to produce better beer vessels;f To fromtap, signifiesthis our tap-roomsto draw off, have or receiveddraw liquors their outname, of offas the from liquor the butt used or in barrel them into is jugs.generally tapped, or drawn ASSISTANT. 34T than others; whether the supposition is just or not I cannot say, but it is very common. In Edinburgh, Glasgow and other places, I have noticed tickets put up having on them, Alloa ale, Burton beer, Leith beer, Edinburgh ale, Aberdeen beer, Lurgan beer from Ireland, Haghill porter, London porter, Imperial porter, &c. which surely must be thought the best of all porter. I believe the variety is only to excite the curiosity bf the public, so that a little more change may pe got; all this does very well, for according to the old proverb, “ far awa’ fowls hae fair [feathers.” Beer is a strong, fine and thin liquor, the Ereater part of the mucilage having been separated by boiling the wort longer than that for ale, Bind carrying the fermentation farther, so as to convert the saccharine matter into alcohol. Ale | s of a more syrupy and thick consistence, and (Tweeter to the taste, much more of the mucilage being retained in it, and the fermentation not iiaving been carried so far as to decompose all jiihe sugar. Small beer is a weaker liquor, and s made by adding a larger portion, of water to jihe malt, or by mashing with a fresh quantity of :water the malt that is left after the beer or ale nrort is drawn off. Porter and brown stout is Baade from higher dried malt, but there are other ■gagredients mixed, as its peculiar flavour cannot Hie imparted by malt and hops alone. I In the reign of Queen Anne, brewers were li'Ot to mix sugar, honey, Guinea pepper, essentia Sna, oculis Indicus, or any other unwholesome gredient into beer under a certain penalty, 34-8 SPIRIT DEALER’S from which it may be inferred that such was the practice of some, and those who profess the trade say the most of these and some other articles are essentially necessary. Essentia bina is sugar boiled to a dark brown and empyreumatic flavour. Broom tops, wormwood, and other bitter plants were formerly used to render beer fit for keeping, before hops were introduced in- to this country, but are now prohibited from being used in beer or ale for sale. If it is wished to extract the greater part of the substance out of the malt in the first wort, for beer of a strong quality, let it off in about the half of the time given it in the ordinary way of mashing, by a small stream, returning it always upon the malt again as it comes off, for more than an hour, stirring it all the time, and letting it run off by a small stream as before. After the quantity is run off, for strong beer, go on the same manner with the second mashing as the first. To prevent the liquor from burning in removing it from the copper, take proper care to damp the fire and keep it low, as the liquor would acquire a disagreeable taste, and taking! out the liquor and adding more fresh should be done very expeditiously. Nofe.—In large breweries there will be a considerable deviation, as it is impossible that they can attend to all the little minutiae that may be gone through in a small concern, however, thei principles are every where the same. The art of brewing is very easy understoodjil, for it is exactly similar to the process of makingj|i tea. Put a handful of malt into a tea pot, thenfl ASSISTANT. 349 $11 it with water, the first time rather under boil- (ng heat. After it has stood for some time pour bff the liquor, just as you would tea, and fill up iShe pot again with boiling water; in a similar spanner pour that off till the malt in the pot is i|asteles, which will be the case, when all the tirtue of the malt is extracted. The liquor or bait tea thus extracted, must then be boiled nth a few hops in it, and when it becomes cool nough, that is about blood heat, add a little brew large quantities requires just the same ^ode of proceeding as it would be to make a iba breakfast for a large company. A peck of >balt and 4 ounces of hops will produce 10 quarts f ale better than any that can be purchased in London, and for which purpose a tea-kettle and two large pans are sufficient apparatus. A mshel of malt to one pound of hops is the most leneral proportion, and 18 gallons of good light !e, or table beer, may be produced from one iushel of malt and one pound of hops, which rill not cost above 7s. that is 6d. a gallon, ir l£d. a quart. Brewing utensils consisting of Smashing tub and oar, a sieve and two coolers, figot and faucet, together with two 9 gallon sks; with these utensils may be brewed 9 gains of liquor for ale, and afterwards 9 gallons i ore for table beer, both of which will be ex- > dlent, &c. Having gone through the process of brewing, will be proper to give the management of the f f 350 SPIRIT DEALER’S different kinds of malt liquors now in use, as they come in order, and also the measures used It may be acceptable here to give the ale, porter and beer measures, as they are quite different from that with which wine, spirits, &c. are measured, and I shall first give the ale measure of London, raised from the standard ale gallon of 282 solid inches.—1st. 55.25 solid inches, ‘I pint. 42 quarts,pints, 1 gallon.quart. 52l-§ gallons,barrels, _11 hogshead.barrel. Beer measure in London, &c. and twopenny in Scotland, raised from the standard English ' ale gallon of 282 solid inches.—2d. 35.25 solid inches,*! ("I pint. 2 pints,quarts, j> make Jj 1 gallon.quart. 561§ gallons,barrels. Jj 1_1I 1 hogshead.barrel.=12 Scots gal. Note.—There are 1692 solid inches more in the hogshead in the second table than there is in the first, or 6 gallons, which is a material odds. Beer or ale measure in all other places of|| Great Britain, raised from the standard ale gal- !| Ion of 282 solid inches.—3d. 55.252 solidpints, inches," 544 gallons,quarts, 1 gallon. If barrels, 1 hogshead. ASSISTANT. 351 Note.—Also in this third table, the hogshead is 846 solid inches, or 3 gallons less than that of table 2d. Of Porter how named. A fire having taken place in London, some storehouses filled with barley being involved in the conflagration, the grain being roasted Jbrown, the proprietors unwilling to lose it, steeped and mashed it, and extracted from it a strong brown liquor, which they boiled and fermented in the common way; but after they had done so, none of the people of the city would drink it, on account of its high colour and peculiar taste, ; therefore it was given to paupers and porters : upon the street, whereby it received the name of Porter's drink; the people seeing that it intoxicated them and did them no harm, began to taste of it also; it pleasing their palate the de- mand began to increase, more of it was made by brown drying the malt, and we now see the Extraordinary consumpt of it at the present day. Of Brewing Porter. Porter is brewed in the very same way as ,i »ood ale or beer, only the malt must be of a fine >rown colour, instead of that which is more jale, and the hops a fine sweet brown hop; like- vise when the copper is boiling, into which is lie wort and hops, add for every hogshead to be irewed, 3 pounds of bruised liquorice root, cut hort, a pound of Spanish liquorice, and twelve 352 SPI1UT dealer’s pounds of coarse brown sugar, (which maybe boiled to a syrup) or treacle; let the whole boil gently for nearly two hours, keeping it well stirred up from the bottom the whole time, strain it off into the coolers the same as other beers, and ferment it in the same way; this will be fit for use in less than six months. Note.—If no table beer is wanted from it, eight bushels of malt and eight pounds of hops will do for the hogshead, but if small beer is wanted, a little more malt and hops may be requisite. The sugar is an agreeable sweet, and a fine bitter, and greatly adds to the strength of the porter, also the other ingredients are wholesome. There may be no harm of adding a little of the salts of tartar, allam, capsicum and ginger; all the other ingredients except the hops should be added when the wort is half boiled. Of Fining Malt Liquor. Irf. Porter ought to be fined as soon as it has done working, unless it is intended to be racked off; if that is the case, defer the fining of it before that time. Take a handful of salt and a handful of chalk powdered fine and well dried, take also some isinglass and dissolve it into some stale beer till it becomes of the consistence of a syrup, strain it, and add about a quart of the syrup to the salt and chalk, and two quarts of molasses, mix them all well together with a gallon of the porter, which you must draw off from the cask, put the whole into the cask again, and take a staff slit at the lower end in four parts, or a ASSISTANT. 353 chain at the end of the staff, stir the whole well about till it begins to ferment, and when it has subsided stop it up close, in two days after you mayjVote—This tap it, this receiptquantity will is sufficientalso do forfor a alebutt. or beer. Of Fining Malt Liquor. Id. In order to fine a cask of beer, take one oz. of isinglass, cut it small, and boil it into nearly a gallon of beer till it is completely dissolved; then put it into the cask and stir it well with a staff: beer fined in this manner should be tapped soon after, because isinglass is ready to make it flat as well as fine. Of Fining Malt Liquor. 3d. Throw in a few handfuls of small clean red | sand into the cask, stir it well, and bung it | close. Of Fining Malt Liquor, ith. Take 2 pints of wheat and boil it in a gallon of water, squeeze out the liquor through a linen cloth; 2 pints of this will be sufficient for a barrel, and will both fine and preserve it. Of Fining Malt Liquor. 5tlu Take of unslaked lime one ounce, and a pint j?f 3 354. SPIRIT DEALER’S and a half of water, mix them well together, and let the mixture stand three hours, when the lime will settle at the bottom, pour off the clear liquor, and mix with it 12 drams of isinglass cut small, and boiled into a little water to dissolve it; pour the mixture into the barrel, and in six hours it will become fine and bright. Of fining Malt Liquor. 6th. Boil 3 oz. of hops in a hop bag or purse, six minutes in the first worts, gently squeezed, and put in loose in 63 gallons, or a hogshead, pur- ges and clears it. Of fining Malt Liquor. 1th. Take pounds oyster shells, burnt and pounded, 1 penny worth crust of toasted bread; put it into the cask which will fine and clear it. Note.—But if the liquor is wanted to appear old and hardish, take two ounces of isinglass, and dissolve it in a quart of vinegar or hard cyder; but this cuts the sparkling quality of the liquor, which the two former receipts maintain; or when drawing off ^ hard or sour, and J soft and new, will answer the purpose. Note.—The leaves of ground ivy thrown into the vat with ale, clarify it, and give it an anti- scorbutic quality. Of Herb Ale. Herb ale is made by infusing the herbs a- ASSISTANT, 355 mong the ale into the cask, (or boiling them among a little water, and pouring as much of the water among the ale to be drunk, as will give it the degree of bitterness requisite) such as horehound, quassia, wormwood, calomel, gentian root, &c., or part of each; by adding a greater quantity of herbs the ale can be brought to any degree of bitterness required. (See Ale bitters) Herb ale will do although it be inferior, as the herbs cover the quality. Note.—As herb ale requires to be drunk warm, if a greater quantity be heated than will be drunk at the time, it will not keep, but will turn sour. To prevent this, have a shallow broad pan, fill the pan with water, keep it on the fire, and have a few jugs set among the water, and by the water being always kept hot when the | ale is poured into the jugs, it will heat, when called for, in three minutes, &c. Of Brewing Beer. j The brewing of beer, porter and ale, are all nearly the same, and as I have already given a | sketch of the general method, shall only now j give a receipt that will suit well upon a small i scale. The allowance of malt for strong beer, . is about 10 bushels to the hogshead, and for ale, i 9; and after this will come offa good hogshead of . table beer from each; and a pound of hops may | be allowed for each bushel of malt; this propor- Ition will make the liquor high flavoured and I good. The process with brown stout is also | the same, only the malt is brown dried, and a I little of molasses put in when boiled. 356 SPIRIT DEALER’S OJ a Cheap method of Brewing. For one bushel of malt, and fths of a pound of hops, boil 24* gallons of water (have the malt previously steeped) for three hours, dash it round with a little cold water, into the boiler, to stop the boiling, then tie up the hops into a hair cloth, and boil hops, malt and wort together, for an hour, which will reduce the quantity to nearly 20 gallons; strain it off, and add the yeast when it is lukewarm. Note.—This process may not answer so well on a large scale, but upon a small it may do where the malt can be boiled; in this way the essence is sure to be extracted. Of Making a Wholesome Table Beer. Boil 2 gallons of water, and add to it one pound of treacle, 4 drams of ginger, and a few bay leaves (female laurel); after the treacle and leaves are put in, boil them a quarter of an hour, cool and work it with yeast the same as other beer. Note.—The country housewifes in winter, when milk is scarce, make a beer of this sort, only the leaves and ginger are kept out; it would be an improvement if they were to add a small quantity of wormwood. Of Scurvy Grass Ale. To brew scurvy grass ale, take the same quantity of malt, and manage it the game as for other ASSISTANT. 357 ales'. When the copper boils with the wort, put in one peck of fine wormwood, half a bushel of scurvy grass, and six pounds of sugar, for 36 gallons, and in proportion to any quantity; this needs no hops, as the wormwood is a good bitter of itself. Of malting a cheap Table Beer. Take 4 pounds of coarse brown sugar, 3 oz. j |of hops, and ten gallons of water; put in the ■sugar and hops, and boil the mixture for an ihour, cool it down to milk-warm, add the yeast land work it in the common way, barrel it, and it should be kept a week or 10 days before it be Iltapped, after which it will improve daily; the (difference in the expense between this mode and brewing with malt, at the present price, is nearly s one to three. Of a substitute for Table Beer. A pleasant beer may be made by adding to a xbottle of porter, ten quarts of water, and a wpound of brown sugar or treacle. After they have ibeen well mixed, pour the liquor into bottles, tiand place them, loosely corked, in a cool cel- tnlar, in three days it will be fit for use. A spoon- HFuI of ginger added to the mixture will make it iiitnore lively and agreeable to the taste. This ii#lso may be termed an excellent grog. Note.—The proper months for brewing are in the spring and fall of the year:—viz. March uand October. 358 SPIRIT dealer’s The Russians have a thin malt liquor which they use after meals, acid tasted, called Kvas, something resembling British ale. Of preventing Beer from growing fiat or sour. Is#. If beer or ale become vapid or flat, into a barrel containing 18 gallons, hang a pint of ground malt into a small bag from the bunghole, and close the bung tight; by this process the beer will be improved during the whole time of drawing it off for use. Of preventing Beer from growing fiat or sour. 2d. Take 2 pints of French brandy, add as much wheat or bean flower as will make it into a dough, make it up in long rollers, and hang them from the bung hole, or let it fall gently to the bottom, this would prevent the ale from growing stale, keep it in a mellow state, and this will greatly increase its strength. Of preventing Beerfrom growing fiat or sour. id. Take 1 pound of honey or treacle, add to it J pound of dried oyster shells, powdered into a soft mel lo w chalk; mix these into a stiff paste, put it into the butt, this will preserve the beer in a fine soft mellow state for a long time. Of preventing Beerfrom growing flat or sour. Mh' Take half a peck of egg shells and dry them ASSISTANT. 359 in an oven, break them small, and mix them with 1 pound of fine chalk powdered, add a little water wherein two pounds of coarse sugar have previously been boiled, put this into the cask; twice this quantity will be sufficient for a butt. ! Of preventing Beer from growing Jlat or sour. 5th. ! : Take 2 ounces of the best Malaga raisins, ::*tring them upon a thread, hang them down (• into the cask, this will prevent the beer from growing flat, and will keep it brisk when using. ; Note.—1st. It will be observed that the paste Sr dough must be put into the cask when the beer , las given over working, or very soon after, and . ihe bung put on tight; in nine or ten months it nay be tried, when it will be found to be fine, -Hrisk and lively. v, By adopting this method with ale or beer, it jp)ay be had wholesome, fine, generous and a- ,:jj;reeable.T ]! Note 2d. It is a practice with some, while nhe beer is working over, to beat in the yeast, in irder to make it strong and heady, which it irtainly does; and there is no doubt but it will omote a good sale, as lively ale is always best n ked, but this is a bad and pernicious practice. ' • ?or yeast is of a very acrimonious and narcotic jUality, and when beat in for two or three days, le beer imbibes its pernicious qualities. Al- jough it will not be discovered by the taste, it i;l»kes the head, is very intoxicating is inju- j^ous to the nervous system, and if persevered

h 360 SPIRIT dealer’s in, the consequences may be fatal. There- fore, I advise that you let your wort have a free, natural and light fermentation, and 2-t hours in the working tub will be long enough when the weather is cold; tun it the second day, and af- terward, put in no ingredients that are improper. Note..—2d. In assorting of porter or beer, sometimes it may be necessary to mix porter with beer, and beer with porter, whereby both may be benefited; this can be judged according to the quality and strength of the liquor. Of recovering Beer •when flat and sour. 1st. I When beer has become sour and flat, add unto it some oyster shells burnt to whiteness, or a little fine chalk powdered, or whitening, any of these will correct the acidity, make it brisk and sparkling; but it should not be long kept after these additions, otherwise it will spoil. Of recovering Beer when fiat and sour. ‘id. To a quart of sour beer add half a tea spoonful of salt of wormwood, this will restore the beer, and when poured into glasses it will make it sparkle. Of recovering Beer when fiat and sour. 2>d. . Draw from the hogshead 5 gallons, and boil into it 5 pounds of honey, skim it well when cold, and put it into the cask again, and stop itl,. ASSISTANT. rup close, it will make the beer drink strong and pleasant. Of recovering Beer 'when flat and sour. Ath. Take of new hops two ounces, and a pound af chalk, broken, put them into the cask, and lung it close, in three days it will be fit for Irinking; this is the sufficient quantity for a half larrel. ‘i Of recovering Beer when flat and sour. 5th. Take a small net or thin cloth, put into it a opound of hops, sink it to the bottom of the cask •ijar butt, if the casks be less than a butt, use the fO^ops in the same proportion; let it stand six uaionths, and then tap it, but if it be wanted for tdrinking sooner, add hops that have been boiled a a short time in the first wort, which will have K.he effect. J|. Of recovering Beer when flat and sour. 6th. Take a little of the super-carbonic of potash, nd put it among porter, ale or beer, that has urned sour, when it will improve and recover {jit; also, super-carbonic of soda may be used with wuccess. ^ Of recovering Beer when flat and sour. 1th. ' : Take a little of calcined or caustic magnesia, imd put it in among the sour liquor, which will 362 SPIRIT DEALER’S recover it But it is of consequence to attend to the distinction betwixt this and carbonate of magnesia, or what is termed mild magnesia. Note.—If putrid water be agitated, with a small quantity of magnesia it will lose its bad taste and smell in a few minutes. Note.—1st. When ale or beer is said to be hard, it is neither more nor less than getting sour or touching upon the acid; and the great reason why it often is so, is the great quantity of sediment that settles at the bottom of the cask which may be neglected to be cleaned out. The compound sediment of malt, hops and barm, partakes of all the corrosive qualities of the com* pound which affects the beer, and Is prejudicial to health, and promotes acute diseases. Brew- ers ought therefore to be particularly careful I not to raise the least sediment in the wort tubs or casks, in removing the liquor from one vessel to another; and particularly when tunning it in the cask, not to raise the sediments at the bottom of the working tub, for if this be done, it is ten to one if a clear or fine butt will go on into continual fermentation: also, it ought not to be kept too long in the working tub, as undue fermentation may be promoted. Those who wish to make a profit off the barm, frequently promote an undue fermentation, and keep it in that state for nearly eight days, which causes the spirit that should keep the beer mellow, soft, and pleasant to evaporate; when the beer gets insipid, stale, sour and bard, it cannot do otherwise, because it has nothing to feed upon that is wholesome and better than its own sediment. ASSISTANT. 363 It is a practice in towns where the breweries e near at hand, that if a barrel of beer be hard iy mismanagement, they take it back again, and ;ive another for it; but this is troublesome, md the retailer might be out of beer before he ot the exchange made; but by attending to [he foregoing receipts and instructions, all this [rouble might be saved with little trouble and sxpense; and in the country the consequences iWould be more serious, being attended with an infinite deal of trouble, on account of the dis- niance from the brewery. . Note.—2d. Bottles may be managed in the name way to correct the acidity or flatness divhich may be in them, and with the same suc- KSess, only at all times cleanliness is to be recom- ; mended., Of bottling Porter, Ales, fyc. ' The bottling of liquors of every description in 11 proper manner, so that it may be fit for keeping or exportation, is of the utmost consequence, ntnd ought to be attended to with particular care ii*nd attention, as upon this, the strength, goodness, quality, and saving of the liquor depends; k herefore, it must not be done in a careless and elslovenly manner. It will be observed not to bottle in the cellar, icrter, beer, or any other liquors, but when the lay is fine, and the atmosphere clear, if possible; ind the bottles should be well inspected that ihey be clean, sweet, and dry; and the best g g 2 364* SPIRIT DEALER’S corks for using, is what is generally termed vel- vet ones. Also, particular attention is to be paid that the liquor be sound and good; the fermentation nearly subsided, and the porter and ale clear and fine. When the bottles are filled, if for home consumption, they should stand uncorked till next day; and in driving the corks, they may touch the liquor nearly, but not press upon it, as in the driving this would undoubtedly break the bottles. But if for exportation, they should stand 48 hours uncorked, to flatten. If the liquor is new, it should be well corked and wired ; but this is not necessary if for private use. When porter or beer is to be sent to any distance, or exported, it is packed in the casks round and round, neck to neck, having plenty of straw betwixt each; and they must be trod upon with the whole weight, shoes and all, the harder they are packed the better; when the cask is full it must be headed by the cooper. Note.—Saw dust may be used if not too new; and boxes may also be used for packing bottled liquor, and in some cases they answer much better. Porter and strong beer greatly improves after a voyage, and is much better than that which has never been at sea. Of ripening Porter and Beer. l$f. If porter or beer is wanted soon ripe, lay the bottles upon their sides, so that the liquor may ASSISTANT. 365 touch the corks; this will ripen it in a very short time. Of ripening Porter and Beer. 2d. When the porter or ale is bottled, put into each bottle a tea spoonful of brown raw sugar, which will ripen it, make it brisk, and promote fermentation, or a common field bean may be put in each bottle. Of ripening Porter and Beer. 3d. Take 2 tea spoonfuls of rice or wheat, and put it into each bottle, or from 3 to 6 raisins; any of these will answer the purpose, make it fine and brisk, and ripen it speedily. Of ripening Porter and Beer. Uh. When the corks are clean, before corking, rince them among water into which some raw sugar has been previously dissolved, let them dry, and then put them into the bottles, and lay the bottles on their sides; this will both ripen and make the beer or porter brisk speedily. Of ripening Porter and Beer. 5th. After the bottles are washed and clean, dissolve a quantity of raw sugar among as much water as will be necessary to wet the inside of | the quantity of bottles intended to be filled, so as to make it a little sweet; put a little of the G g 3 366 SPIRIT DEALER’S sugar water into each bottle, and pouring it out again, which may be speedily done over them all; this will have the effect of making the porter or ale brisk and ripe in a short time. Of ripening Brown Stout. Any of the foregoing may be used with brown stout; but as it requires to be of a dark colour, I would recommend, instead of the foregoing, that a little treacle or molasses be used, which will improve the colour, and ripen it at the same time. Of improved Cories for preserving Liquors. Dissolve or melt together two parts of white wax, and one part of beef suet; dip the corks into this mixture, and immediately dry them in a stove upon an iron plate; repeat this operation twice, and the corks thus prepared, will preserve any liquor well, without imparting any ill flavour thereto. Of discovering Vitriol in Beer. Put into the beer a little of the decoction of galls, and it will turn it blackish if any vitriol is contained in, or mixed with it.' Of Cleaning Flint Glass Bottles, Decanters, Wine Glasses, fyc. Roll up into small balls, some white, brown, ASSISTANT. S67 or blotting paper, then wet and soap the same; put them into the bottle or glass to be cleaned, with a little of milk-warm water; shake them i well for a few minutes ; then rinse or shake the glass or bottle with clean water, when it will be as clear and bright as when new purchased. • Aoh?—In the year 1792, when the population of England was 8,300,000, there were J 7,110,268 barrels of beer consumed, the t.ax a- ' mounting to 2,232,214- pounds; and in 1822, when the population was 11,200,000, there were ' 7,207,587 barrels consumed, also, the tax a- mounting to 3,013,668 pounds; so we see that the quantity of beer that was drunk, by “ 2,900,000, the increase of population, is only | 97,319 barrels more, while the increase of tax- ation upon that quantity, is 781,4-54- pounds! A plain demonstration that the people of Eng- land are not only getting less wine, as I have noticed in page 21, but they are getting less beer also, and paying more for it, which is still a greater symptom of their misery being increased! Of Barm or Yeast. | Ferment of some particular kind must have been very ancient, and generally known, for we find that all the savage nations and Indian tribes have the knowledge of it in a small degree, and consider it necessary to complete the proper I making of the liquors which they have in use. [What time it came to be known in the present form in which we have it, is uncertain. But it is said that the way that it was at first found out, 3G8 SPIRIT DEALER’S was by a wild boar, in bis fury and rage, foam» ing at the mouth, running into a place where some vessels stood, which contained liquor, and holding his head above the vessel, part of the foam from his mouth dropt info the vessel among the liquor; when, to the astonishment of those concerned, a fermentation took place, far exceeding any which they had ever seen before; producing, after it had ceased, a clear transparent liquor. It was from this called boar’s faem, and afterwards changed to barm and yeast. I have not the least doubt but there may be a truth in it, as it is very probable, for if a man, an ox, a dog, a boar or any other animal be in a rage, and foaming at the mouth, and any quantity of the foam taken and put among liquor, having a proper degree of warmth, it will immediately ferment, and the product of that ferment wiir ferment again ad infinitum, which plainly shews the probability of the circumstance. The use of yeast in promoting the vinous fermentation, appears to be that of rendering the process more uniform through a considerable mass. But the principle of its action does not seem to be well understood. Thus an ignited coal may be considered as the ferment, by which a large quantity of combustible matter may be made speedily to change its state of combination throughout. And so it may be supposed that the addition of a body considerably changed by the fermentative process, may hasten the commencement of a similar change in a larger ASSISTANT. 369 mass, particularly when the fermentative process is in the nature of combustion. Of the German mode of making Yeast. 1st. To 50 pounds of the best malt, consisting of one part malted wheat, and two parts of malted barley, dried in the open air and well ground, add 5 pounds of good hops, and brew the mixture with 175 pounds of water, which form a wort in the common way. After boiling a short time, the grains and hops are to be separated from the wort, which is to bo boiled into the one half, or 87J pounds. Cool it down quickly to 70° Farenheit’s thermometer, something hotter than milk warm, and mix it with 16 pounds of good yeast, which for this time may be common brewers’ yeast, but in every other operation, the artificial yeast may be used. The wort will very soon ferment, and after four or five hours will be covered with a thick white froth; when this appears, the whole mass must be well stirred, and at the same time mixed well with it, from 25 to 35 pounds of fine ground meal of wheat or barley, either malted or un- ! malted. By keeping it in a cool place, it will continue in a good state for 15 days in summer, and in winter, for six weeks, and still longer if stirred once or twice daily. This yeast when employed in distilleries, breweries, or for making cyder and vinegar, as also by bakers and pastry cooks, is asserted to be as useful and ef- ‘ factual as common yeast. 370 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of mqldng Barm or Yeast. 2d. Mix four pints of soft water with flour of wheat, to the consistency of thick gruel, boil the mixture gently over a slow fire for half an hour, and when almost cold, stir into it half a pound of sugar, and four spoonfuls of good yeast; put it into an earthen vessel, narrow at the top, and place it before the fire, so that it may, by a moderate heat, ferment. This fermentation will throw up a thin liquor, which may be poured off and cast away; the remainder keep for use in a cool place, in a bottle or narrow vessel, tied over with a cloth. The same quantity as of common yeast will be sufficient to bake or brew with; and four spoonfuls of this will make a fresh supply as before directed. Of a substitute for Barm or Yeast. 3d. Boil into a gallon of water, two ounces of hops for 20 minutes, strain it, and whilst hot, stir into it half a pound of flour; when milk- warm, mix into it half a pint of good ale yeast, or a pint of this mixture of a former making, which should be kept always in reserve for a supply. When nearly cold, bottle and cork it well, and keep it for use in a cool place, for if kept too warm, it will be apt to fly; this may be judged by the season of the year; and it must be observed to fill the bottles only two-thirds full. When using it, put it into the flour intended for bread, in the proportion of one pint to 24 ASSISTANT. 371 pounds, with water, to make it of a proper degree of warmth. Mix a little flour with it in the middle of the kneading vessel, cover it up close, and set it into a moderately warm place all night; knead it well in the morning, and let it stand a few hours longer to rise; it should be 20 hours before the first putting together, and the time the bread is set into the oven. Of Hazel Nut Barm or Yeast. \th. It is a common practice in countries where yeast is scarce, to take the twigs of hazel and twist them together, so as to be full of chinks, when they steep them into the ale yeast during its fermentation; the twigs so twisted are then hung up to dry, and at the next brewing, they are put into the wort instead of yeast. In Italy the chips are frequently put among turbid wine for the purpose of clearing it, which they will effect in 24 hours. Note.—This mode of fermentation is similar ito promoting the acid fermentation in the making of vinegar by raisin stalks, &c. Of making Barm or Yeast in the Turkish manner. 5th. Take of bruised peas a tea cup full, and pour I iupon them a pint of boiling water, and set it in a i vessel for a whole night on the hearth, or any I other warm place. Next morning the water evill have a froth upon it, and the yeast will be SPIRIT DEALER’S good ; this is sufficient for two quartern loaves, i Of making Artificial Barm or Yeast. 6th. i Take the mealy sort of potatoes, any quantity, and boil them till they are thoroughly soft; i skim and break them very small, add as much hot water as will make the mash to about the i consistency of common ale yeast, not thicker; j add to every pound of potatoes two spoonfulls of j ale yeast, keep it warm till it has done working, j and in 24 hours it may be used. A pound of j potatoes will make about a quart of yeast, and j when made, will keep three months: 8 hours i will be required before it be baked. Note Instead of water and sugar in one of j the above receipts beer may be used, not over j hopped, nor strong in the same proportion, and with equal, if not better success. Of Barm or Yeast Cakes. 1th. In Long Island, North America, they make 16 yeast cakes; a parcel of these cakes are made I: once a-year, and when they bake or brew, they 1: take one or more of these cakes, according to the bulk of the batch, or quantity of liquor to be fermented, the materials are as follows: Take 3 ounces of good fresh hops, add S£ pounds of flour of rye, 7 pounds of Indian corn meal, and a gallon of water; rub the hops so as to separate them; put the hops into the water, ^ which must be boiling at the time, let them * ASSISTANT. 373 •oil half an hour, and strain the liquor through fine hair sieve into an earthen vessel. While jhe liquor is hot, put in the rye flour, stirring le liquor quick and well, as the rye flour is put ito it. When it is working, put in the Indian •eal, stirring it well as it goes in; before the Indian meal is all in, the mess will be very stiff !nd of the consistence of the dough of bread; ike this dough and knead it well, roll it out with rolling pin, to about the thickness of £ of an pch; when it is thus rolled out, cut it into cakes ith the mouth of a glass tumbler, stamped on or something else that will answer the same iurpose. Put the cakes in the sun to dry, and irn them every day, let them receive no wet, id they will become as hard as ship biscuit; hit them into a safe place where they will receive iio damp, as that would injure them. When li ou bake or brew, take one or two cakes, accord- ig to the baking or brewing, put them into Ijot water over night, having cracked them first; it the vessel into which they are contained, near ahe fire place, all night, when they will be dis- ' lived before morning, then it is used as you ould use the yeast of beer. Note.—1st. There may be some objections to •me of the things contained in this receipt, as it I; is only in cakes, and may be thought not to an- for fermenting liquor. The practice in A* •erica is to put in the cake when the liquor is at fermenting heat, it will surely do in Britain faually the same. 2d. Where is the Indian corn i*eal to be got? It cannot be got here, but white rea meal or even barley meal will do equally h h 374- SPIRIT DEALER’S well. 3d. How is the cakes to be dried in the sun (as it must not be at the fire) as it is: not so hot as in America? but nine years out of ten we have surely a fortnight each year of ; warm sun, which if taken, will answer the pur- : pose, also a glass may be put over them, which will make their situation hotter than the open air in North America; in fact, if the person be ; willing, the difficulties are easily surmounted. ; Of an American method of making Barm or Yeast. 8th, Take as many hops as may be held betwixt the thumb and fore-fingers, put them into a quart of water and boil them well together, if * there are any apples at hand cut a few slices of i them, and throw them in while boiling, which will be an improvement; then pour the liquor off, or strain it through a coarse cloth, and add to it four spoonfuls of molasses, and stir in as much flour as will make it to the consistence of thin yeast, set the whole near the fire or in any moderate warmth, until a fermentation takes place, which will commence in a few hours, then mix it up with the flour. Note.—This will be sufficient for one baking to ten people. Of a second American method of making Barm or Yeast. 9th. Boil one pound of good flour, a quarter of a | pound of brown sugar and a little salt, in two) I gallons of water for an hour, when milk-warm’ ASSISTANT. S75 jottle it and cork it close, it will be fit for use in 24* hours; one pint of this will make 18 or 20 pounds of bread. y a new composition to be used instead of Yeast. Into two gallons of common water, boil eight cnounds of potatoes, as if they were for eating, ipreak them small and mix with them whilst !'rarm, two ounces of honey or four ounces of ugar, and one quart of common yeast; and if or bread mix three beer pints of the composition imth a bushel of flour, warm water must be used; Hshe water must be warmer in winter than in mummer, and the composition should be used in a new hours after it is made, and as soon as the ,ti mixture of the composition with the flour begins io fall the first time, the bread should be made Hind put into the oven. Of preserving Barm or Yeast. Yeast may be kept for a considerable time, by lying one coat after the other dries upon a Hoard with a whitening brush successively, to |ny number of coatings, which when perfectly Iry, will keep good and retain its virtues a long *ne. Another method is to whisk, up the yeast nil it becomes thin, then lay it round the sides wooden dish, with a brush as before directed, imd as many coatings as may be wanted; the asessel is then turned upside down to keep out she dust, but not the air which is to dry it; by .litis method it may be made two or three inches h h 2 376 SPIRIT DEALER’S thick, when it may be preserved in convenient vessels for a 1 ong time good and vigorous. When it is to be used, a bit is taken off and dissolved among warm water or beer, when it will be fit for use. Note—Any of the foregoing receipts will either do for bread or liquor; but after the first fermentation of liquor, that which rises to the top, when taken off will do again. And by drying yeast and making it into cakes, packing it up and keeping it dry, it may be exposed to any climate, and retain all its virtues, &c. Of Distilling Simple Waters. What is chiefly used in the distillation of simple waters, is the hot still, cold still or water bath. Waters drawn by the cold still from odoriferous aromatics, &c. are much more fragrant and more fully impregnated with their virtues than those drawn by the hot still, but the operation! is much slower and tedious by the former than , the latter, so that few choose to follow the pro- , cess. The following method will avoid the te- diousness of the one, and the inconveniences of ; the other. Thus— Let a pewter body be suspended into the bo- , dy of the still, and the head of the still fitted to | , the pewter body, put into this body the ingre- i , dients that are to be distilled, fill the still with water, the still head being luted to the pewter , body, and the nose of the still head luted to the ^ worm, which stands in the refrigatory, cooler or flake stand, l ASSISTANT. 377 By this means the ingredients are not so I forcibly acted upon as in the common way by the hot still, so that all these things, that are iof a texture betwixt very volatile and very fixed, are properly treated by this method, but neither the very odoriferous simples, nor those whose parts are heavy and fixed can be treated this way but to disadvantage. One of the great advantages of this way is, that waters so drawn come over much cooler than from the hot still, or as the distillers term it, II not so much of the fire in them, so that hot spicy v waters conducted in this way will taste as cool when just drawn, as that drawn by the hot still l» will do when it has acquired a considerable age. J I Of Distilling Herbs, Roots, fyc. by the Cold Still. The cold still answers the purpose much better dl for drawing olf the virtues of simples, which are ) 1 held in estimation for their fine flavour when r green, and whose flavour is subject to the test i i; in drying. For when a spirit so light and vola- I! tile is extracted from plants, as not to continue n any longer than while the plant continues in its jj growth, it is certainly the best method to rent move the plant from its native soil to the still, i where the spirit or volatile parts can be collected, i and where the drying of the plant or flower ii is only brought forward by a moderate warmth, a and all the essence that rises is collected and <| preserved. The method of performing the operation by 11 the cold still is the very same, whatever plant or h h 3 SPIRIT DEALER’S flower may be used. The following example may suffice. Gather rosemary fresh, with the morning dew upon it, and lay it lightly bruised into the pewter body suspended in the still, cover the pewter body with its conical head, and apply a glass receiver to the nose of it; put a fire of charcoal to the still, continue the fire as long as any liquor comes over into the receiver; when nothing comes over, take off the still head and remove the plant, putting fresh in its stead, and proceed as before in succession, until a sufficient quantity of water is procured. Water so procured must be kept at rest in clean bottles, when it will become clear and limpid, and powerfully impregnated with the taste and flavour of the plant. If the vessel be stopped and set in a cool place, the waters drawn by the cold still will retain their virtues for a year, but if negligently stopped, or if there be any crack in the glass, the volatile part of the spirit flies off, and leaves the water vapid and tasteless. It has been observed of these waters, that in a year’s time they appear thick, which thickness increases every year till at length they become ropy and mucilaginous. The water seems to contain small bodies, which in a certain time grow into r thin whitish weed suspended in the middle of the water, which daily increasing and spreading itself becomes a mucilage, which did not appear at first view. Hence we see that this water contains the elementary water and presiding spirit of the plant, a small spirit in bulk but rich in ASSISTANT. 379 virtues, and exhibiting to a high degree the smell and taste of the plant. From the above may be learnt what plants lose by being dried in summer, namely, the wa- iter and spirit; also we may learn the nature of the fluid which first rises from plants in distillation, and what that matter properly is that gives their peculiar odour, viz. their presiding spirit; we may learn in some measure what these ejjiu- tyia are which principally in the summer season, &nd in the open air exhale from vegetables, especially in the day time. For it is highly pro- )able, that the constant exhalations of plants have a near agreement in their peculiar nature with the liquor extracted by the cold still, but differ in this, that the exhalation made from the plant is continually recruited by the root, while by the operation of the cold still, these parts a- 'one are collected from the plant after being ;athered, and no longer supplied with fresh lourishment. 'Distilling Herbs, Roots, Fruits, &jc, by the Hot Still. The plants designed for this operation must e gathered a little before the flowers appear, |idien the leaves are at their full growth, or at ny rate before the seeds come on, because af- fer the seed or fruit is formed, the flavour in sHese waters will be very little, as at this time ioe plants begin to languish. The morning is j<.so the best time to gather them, as the volatile starts are condensed by the coldness of the night, 380 SPIRIT DEALER’S and kept by the tenacity of the dew, not yet ex- haled by the rays of the suh. But observe this is only to be understood when the virtue principally resides in the leaves, as it does in Marjoram, Pennyroyal, Rue, Mint, , and many more. But the case is quite different when the aromatic virtue resides only in the flowers, as in roses, lilies of the valley, &c. in which case the flowers are only chosen at the time when the smell is sweetest, which is before j they are opened or beginning to shed, and the morning dew hanging upon them. In a number of plants the seeds are pre- ! ferable, such as Annise, Carr away and Cumin seeds. In these and many others the seeds are | fully possessed of the virtue of the plant when they arrive at perfect maturity. There are some plants whose virtues are only | found in the roots, such as the Avens and Orpine, whose roots smell like a rose. Roots of this kind should be gathered at the season of i the year when they are richest in their virtues, which is just before they sprout, when they should be dug up in the morning. If the virtues required be contained in the^ bark or wood of vegetables, then these parts must be chosen when they are full of sap and in their full strength. The herbs, flowers, seeds, or roots being chosen, let them be cut or bruised, if necessary*® and put into the still, not squeezing them close ! till it be about two-thirds full, leaving one-third P ASSISTANT. 381 head, and lute the junctions, so that no vapour escape; also, lute the nose of the still-head to the worm, apply the receiver to the bottom of the worm, that no vapour fly off in the distillation, but that all the vapour may be condensed in the worm by cold water in the worm- tub and be collected into the receiver. When every thing is thus arranged, let the materials digest in the still for 24: hours with a small degree of heat. At the end of 24 hours raise the fire so as to make the water in the still ll boil, which may be known by the noise within, u or the smoking of the water in the worm-tub or a cooler, heated by the top of the worm, and by [l.,the following of one drop after another from the ,n;nose of the worm into the receiver, so as almost >1 to form a continual stream. By which signs it n will be known when the heat requisite is given; c' for if less is given the virtues of the simples will « not rise, and of course, the design will be frus- i: trated. On the contrary, when the fire is too strong j;the water rises first into the still-head, and fouls 1 both the worm and the distilled liquor; also when c.the fire is too strong, the ebullition raises the kplants into the still-head and blocks up the worm, cto prevent which apiece of linen may be fastened n before the pipe of the still head, that in case of nany accident happening the plants may be kept rtifrom blocking up the worm. But notwithstand- iflng of this precaution, if the fire be too strong, *he plants will stop up the pipe of the still-head, rand the vapour rising, finding no passage, will >lt>low off the still-head, which may do a deal of 382 SPIRIT DEALER’S mischief, and suffocate the operator. The more oily, tenacious, gummy, and resinous the liquor, the greater the danger, because the liquor is more frothy and explosive. It is of the utmost consequence that the fire be kept up at a due degree of heat, as long as the water distilling into the receiver is white, thick, odorous, soaped, frothy and turbid, for the water in this state must be kept carefully from what follows after; to effect this, the receiver must be often changed so that nothing but this first water comes over, as afterwards there rises a water that is thin and transparent, having no flavour of the plant, but somewhat tartish and limpid, and fouled by a white dreggy matter; if the still-head be copper, untinned, its acidity corrodes the copper so as to become green, nauseous, emetic, and poisonous. The first water that comes over contains the oil and presiding spirit of the plant, root, flower or seed; for the fire by boiling what is contained in the still dissolves its oil and reduces it into small particles, which are carried upwards by the assistance of the water, along with those parts of the plant, flower, seed, or root that becomes volatile with their motion ; and if the vessels are well luted and close, these will be dis- charged without loss or much alteration into the receiver, and consequently will produce a water richly impregnated with the smell, taste, and particular virtues of the plants, from which they are extracted. The water of the second running, wants the ASSISTANT. 383 volatile parts above described, and has scarce any virtue but that of cooling. From what has been observed, it plainly appears at what time of the distilling process, by the same degree of fire, quite contrary virtues may arise from the same plant, flower, seed, or Iroot; for so long as a milky matter comes over from such plants as are aromatic, so long the water remains running and attenuating, but when it becomes thin, and pelucid, it is acid and cooling. It may also be learned the true foundation for conducting distillation, for if the operation be iStopped as soon as the white water ceases to come over, the preparation will be valuable and jierfect; but if more be drawn off, and the latter | allowed to mix with the former, the whole will ube spoiled, or at least rendered greatly inferior to what it might have been, provided they had been 1 kkept separate. These are the general methods of procuring isimple water, that will contain the volatile vir- utues of the plants distilled. But notwithstanding fipf this, some rules may be necessary to render lit applicable to all sorts of plants, flowers, roots, seeds, &c. 1. If the strong smelling, aromatic, balsamic md oily plants, such as Balm, Hyssop, Juniper, 'larjoram, Mint, Origanum, Pennyroyal, Rose- lary, Lavender, Sage, &c. which long retain ;heir natural fragrance and virtue, be gently Iried in the shade, and digested in the same inner already described for 24< hours in a close .vessel, with a small degree of heat, and after- e wards distilled as above, they will afford excel- v ent waters. 384 SPIRIT DEALER’S 2. When waters are to be drawn from wood, bark, seeds, &c. that are dense, tough, and resinous, they must be digested or steeped from 3 to 6 weeks with a greater degree of heat in a close vessel, with the addition of a quantity of salt, to open and prepare them for distillation, ! and prevent putrefaction, which might be the consequence by being kept heated so long a time, which putrefaction would of course destroy the smell, taste and virtues, that might be expected i from the process. 3. Plants which diffuse their odour to some distance from them, and soon lose it, should j immediately be distilled, after being gathered in | proper season, as before directed, without any : previous digestion, such as Borage, Buglass, | Jessamin, White Lilies, Lilies of the Valley, < Roses, &c. which are hurt by the heat, digestion, < or lying in the open air. Of increasing the Virtues of simple Water by Co- hobation. Cohobation means the returning of the distilled water procured in the manner formerly described upon more of the fresh plant: the o- peration is as follows. Take the plants, flowers, &c. remaining in the still after the first drawing off, and press | them strongly in a bag for that purpose, that all | the decoction may be obtained, and with this fi mix all the water drawn over before into the f ASSISTANT. 385 receiver. Return the mixture wholly again in- to the still and a fresh quantity ofthe same plant, and if thought necessary, add as much water as will make the same proportion to the plant as formerly, that is, two-thirds full; lute all the junctions, and digest the whole in a gentle heat for three days and nights, that the herb by being so long steeped in its own liquor may be o- pened, loosened, and disposed the easier to part with its virtues. This digestion will be of particular service, but if protracted too long, may tend to putrefaction. At the end of three days let the water be distilled.off as before, only it must be proceeded with more cautiously and more slowly at first, on account of the liquor now in the still being thicker and more impregnated with the plant, is more apt to smell by the fire, it easily boils over, but after the water is half drawn off, the fire may be gradually increased. By this method, if the receiver is carefully changed, as soon as the first water is all drawn over, an excellent liquor, highly impregnated with the virtue of the roots, herbs, flowers and seeds, will be obtained. This operation may be repeated as often as desired, by which the virtues of the ingredients may be exalted to any degree ; of flavour the artist may think proper, which ■ shews the extraordinary power of distillation. This method will do particularly well for mak- • ing the simple water of Balm, Elder Flotuers, \ Boses, and such like, only there will be a small quantity of essential oil. 386 SPIRIT DEALER’S The plan the French follow in flavouring their brandies is something similar, they put into the second drawing over a quantity of the raw juice, which has a particular effect in improving; the flavouring quality.

Of 'procuring simple Waters from Vegetables by\ Fermentation, before Distillation. If the waters procured by this method are for : long keeping, it may be termed excellent, as; the virtues of the plants may be obtained very ( little altered from what they naturally are, but I much more penetrating and volatile. The oper- i ation is this. Take a sufficient quantity of the-plant to be distilled, and bruise or cut it if necessary, put it into a cask, leaving an empty space at the top of about 4 cr 5 inches deep, then take as much water as will fill the cask to the same height when added, including the plant, and mix into it about l part of the quantity of water of honey if the weather be cold; if warm, Jg part; but in summer the same quantity of unrefined sugar may be added instead of honey, or { ounce of good yeast (barm) will have the same effect, but honey is to be preferred. When the proper quantity of honey is added to the water, warm it, and pour it into the cask, and set it in a warm i place to ferment 2 or 3 days; but the herbs:' must be kept from the bottom, and the ferment-! ation must only be half finished, when the whole:.! must be committed to the still, which must be ■ ASSISTANT. 387 well luted, and the fire raised gradually, for the liquor containing much fermenting spirit, soon rarifies with the fire, froths and swells, and is very subject to boil over; it ought therefore to be wrought slowly at first. The first that comes over is a limpid, unctuous, penetrating, odorous, soaped liquor, which is to be kept by itself, what follows is a milky, opake, turbid liquor, still containing something of the same taste and odour, then comes a thin acid liquor, without any smell or property of the plant. The water, or rather spirit, that comes over first, may be kept several years v/ithout changing or growing ropy, it also retains the taste and odour of the plant in a high degree, although a little altered. But if less honey were added, less heat employed, or the fermentation continued for a shorter time, the distilled liquor of thedirst running off would be white, thick, opake, unctuous, frothy, and would retain the scent and taste of the plant, much less altered than in the former case, but the water will not be so sharp and penetrating; after this is drawn off, a tartish, clear, inodorous liquor will come over. By this method simple waters may be made for long keeping without spoiling, for the inflamable spirit generated in the fermentation, serves excellently to preserve them. i i 2 S88 SPIRIT dealer’s OF THE SIMPLE WATERS IN USE. . Simple waters are not so much used as they H were formerly; the most common are cinnamon T water, rose water, fennel water, peppermint J water, spearmint water, balm water, penny- - royal water, Jamaica pepper water, orange peel I water, dill seed water, &c.; and perhaps the || reason of them being so neglected is the bad 1 methods used in distilling them. The process is I carried on the same with every herb, although i it ought to be varied, and some gently dried, , others distilled green, some should be drawn by ! the cold, others by the hot still, &c. The rule that ought to be observed with re- ' gard to the hot still is, that all herbs should have twice their weight of water added to them in the still, and not above j or ^ drawn off; for simple waters have their faints, if drawn too low, as well as those that are spirituous. There are some plants, particularly balm, require to have the water drawn off, cohobated or poured several times on a parcel of the fresh herb, that it may acquire a proper degree of Strength and richness; on the contrary, others abound too much with the essential oil that floats on the distilled waters; when this is the case the oil should be taken off. Also, those that contain a more fixed oil should be imperfectly fermented, as before directed, before they be distilled, such as the Carduus, (Creep' ing Way Thistle,) Camomile, &c. If the foregoing instructions and rules be properly attended to, the operator may produce

, ASSISTANT. 389 simple waters, rich and high flavoured, and also bring them to any degree of purity requisite. Of Rose Water. For this operation the Damask Rose answers the purpose best, it flowers in June and July, is of a very fragrant smell, and the water may either be made by the hot still, the cold still, or water bath. If the hot still be applied, the leaves picked from the stalks must be put into the still with a sufficient quantity of water, to prevent an empyreuma, or the taste and smell of fire, and the water must be drawn off by a gentle fire ; the receiver must be luted to the nose of the worm with bladder, to prevent the finest and most volatile part from escaping, to the great prejudice of the water. If the cold still is used, the rose leaves are taken either with the dew on them, or sprinkled with water, which will have the same effect, and laid upon an iron plate suspended in the still, covered with the conical head. A gentle fire must then be put under the still, and a receiver luted with bladder to the nose of the crown, by this means the water will gradually distil into the receiver, and be strongly impregnated with the odoriferous flavour of the roses. The same method must be used with regard to the water bath in the distillation of rose leaves, only the fire may be a little stronger. I shall only observe that rose water drawn by the cold SPIRIT DEALER’S still or water bath is preferable to that drawn | by the hot still. The essence of roses is looked upon to be one u of the most valuable perfumes in the world, and 1 one of the most difficult to be procured in any > quantity. The method of procuring this, will, 1 I trust, not be unacceptable. It is thus:— Take of Damask Rose leaves a sufficient | quantity, put them in a proper vessel, add to < them a sufficient quantity of water, and some | mineral acid, as spirit of salt, vitriol, &c. let U the mixture digest 15 days, then put the whole into the still, and draw off the water with a brisk fire. But instead of the common receiver, a separating-glass must be placed under the nose of the worm, and a receiver added to the tube of the separating-glass; by this means all the essence will float on the surface of the water in the separating-glass, and may easily be taken off when the operation is finished. Of Cinnamon Water. Cinnamon is the interior or second bark of a tree that grows plentifully in Ceylon; those who gather it take off the two barks together, they separate the outer one, which is rough and has very little fragrancy, from the inner one, and lay it to dry in the shade in an airy place, where it rolls itself up in the form which we see it. Cinnamon is a noble drug, and endowed with many virtues. ASSISTANT. 391 To make One Gallon. Take a pound of the best cinnamon, powder it grossly, and digest or steep it 24> hours in two gallons of water, put the whole into the still and draw over one gallon with a brisk fire. This is distilled with the hot still, as the oil in which its virtues consists is very ponderous. Of Fennel Water. Fennel water is extracted from a seed called sweet fennel, it has a fragrant smell and aromatic taste, it is cultivated in France and Italy. To make One Gallon. Take one gallon of sweet fennel seeds and two gallons of water, put them into a still, and draw off one gallon with a gentle fire. Of Peppermint Water. Peppermint is well known, and is a very celebrated stomachic, and is much used as a simple water. To make One Gallon. Take a pound and a half of peppermint leaves dried, two gallons and a half of water, put the whole into the still, and draw off one gallon with a gentle fire. Note—The water drawn from peppermint by the water bath, is more fragrant and more fully impregnated with the flavour and virtues of the plant than that drawn by the hot still, and when SPIRIT DEALER’S the cold still is applied, the plant must be green, and if possible, committed to the still with the morning dew upon it. Of Spearmint Water. Spearmint has similar virtues as peppermint, and is a great stomachic, and generally used. To make One Gallon. Take of the dried leaves one pound and a half, and water two gallons and a half, draw off one gallon by a gentle fire. This water is drawn off by the cold still or water bath, and the same precaution used as for peppermint. Of Balm Water- Balm is well known, it flowers in July, and is of a fine flavour, but weak and soon dissipated and lost; it is more difficult to preserve its natural scent. Note.—Balm water should be distilled when the plant is green, and cohobated or returned several times upon the fresh plant, by this means the water will be extremely rich and a useful cordial. This water should be drawn by the cold still or water bath, when it will be highly impregnated with the virtues of the plant. Of Pennyroyal Water. Pennyroyal is well known, it is very warm, ASSISTANT. 393 subtile and penetrating, it is much used in medicine, it communicates its virtues to water by infusion, and its simple water has perhaps more virtues than any kept in the shops; but it is necessary to cohobate it upon fresh parcels of the plant to extract the whole virtue. The water drawn from green pennyroyal contains generally so large a portion of the essential oil, that it is necessary to separate what floats on the surface of the water by the separating glass. To make One Gallon. Take three gallons of water and one pound and a half of pennyroyal leaves dried, mix them * together, put them into the still, and draw off one gallon with a gentle fire. The water drawn from green pennyroyal by the cold still is very fragrant, and fully impregnated with the virtues of the plant. Of Jamaica Pepper Water. Jamaica pepper or pimento, is the fruit of a tall tree growing in the mountainous parts of Jamaica, where it is mnch cultivated on account of the great profit arising from the fruit, which is sent in large quantities to Europe. It is gathered when green, and exposed to the sun upon cloths till thoroughly dry, when tho- ; | roughly dried it is sent over to us. It is a noble aromatic, and deserves to be more used than at present, it is a better carminative than any other simple water now in use. 394 spirit dealer’; To make One Gallon. Take of pepper half a pound, water two gallons and a half, draw off one gallon with a pretty brisk fire. As the oil of this fruit is very ponderous, the i hot still will answer the purpose best. Of Orange Peel Water. Orange peel water is very grateful to the taste, and much used in fevers, &c. To make One Gallon. Take of the outward rind of Seville oranges, four ounces; water, three gallons and a half; infuse them, and draw off one gallon with a pretty brisk fire. Of Dill Seed Water. The dill plant greatly resembles the fennel, and it bears the same kind of yellow flowers, but the seeds are rounder andbroader than those of fennel, the waterdrawnfrom the seeds is heating and carminative, good for cholics and windy disorders. To make One Gallon. Take three gallons of water, one pound of I dill seed, infuse them and draw off by the hot I still one gallon with a brisk fire. I have laid down the method of distilling a few of the simple waters commonly in use, the same method for many others. It therefore would be of no use to carry the instructions i: farther, only it will be observed thalf when un- ASSISTANT. 395 favourable seasons prevent the herbs from at- taining to a proper degree of perfection, it will be necessary to increase their proportion, in extracting the several waters to be drawn by the still, &c. Of an expeditious method (f distilling Simple Waters. Over a glazed earthen pot, the mouth of which is just large enough to receive the bottom of a warming pan, tie a piece of thin muslin or gauze; on this cloth lay the herbs, clipped small, such as mint, lavender, balm, thyme, &c. then place upon the herbs the hot warming pan with burning coals in it, to cause heat enough to keep the herbs from burning, by which means as the steam issuing out of the herbs cannot ascend by means of the pan just fitting the brim of the vessel below it, it must of course descend through the cloth, and will collect into a liquid at the bottom of the pot or receiver, strongly impregnated with the essential oil and flavour of the herb thus distilled. If it is wanted to make a spirituous compound water of it, it is easily done by adding some ,good malt spirits or French brandy to it. This will keep for a long time, and be better than if the spirits had passed through a still with the herbs, which of course would waste some of their strength. Great care must be taken that the fire in the pan be not too strong, lest it scorch the plants, and the plants before they be laid on, may be 396 SPIRIT DEALER’S sprinkled with a little water. The fire may be made of charcoal, so that it may be better regulated, which may be done by lifting up and laying down the lid of the pan, as the heat is wanted to be increased or decreased. The deeper the earthen pot, and the more gradually the heat is increased, in the greater perfection will ( the distilled water be obtained. Medical wafers procured in this way, will afford nearly all the native virtues of the vegetables, and give us a compound of their several principles, which will come fully up to the juice or extract gained by any other means. And if brandy spirit of any kind be added to the liquid so gained, a spirituous water will be procured at a cheap and easy rate. Although a small quantitjrof distilled water can be obtained at a time by this limited operation, it fully compensates in strength what it is deficient in quantity. Such liquors, if well corked and kept from external air, will keep good for a long time, by adding j* th part of good spirits to them. Note.-The5 above may be termed distillation per descensum which is seldom used by distillers, &c. i OF COMPOUND WATERS AND CORDIALS. To make compounds and cordials properly, a i number of proper rules would need to be known li by the artist, as in this grand branch it would be t impossible to go on at random, and produce ! compounds or cordials in any degree of purity, , ASSISTANT. 397 richness and flavour; but if the following rules be carefully observed, they may be produced in the highest degree of perfection. 1st. Be careful to use at all times a well cleansed spirit, free of any flavour of its own, or what may be termed silent spirit, such as that extracted from sugar, cyder, raisins, &c. 2d. Let the time of digestion be proportioned to the tenacity of the ingredients, or the ponderous quality of the oil they contain, and sometimes cohabation may be necessary to extract the whole virtue, flavour and essence from the plant. 3d. Let the strength of the fire be proportioned to the ponderous quality of the oil intended to be raised with the spirit; for instance, strong cinnamon waters require a greater degree of fire than mint, balm, &c. which part more easily with their virtues. j 4th. Let only a due proportion of the finest b parts of the essential oil be united with the spirit, I the grosser and less fragrant parts of the oil |; not giving the spirit so agreeable a flavour, and | at the same time renders it thick and clammy. | This may be effected by leaving out the faints, | and making up to proof with fine soft water in H their stead. I| By observing strictly these rules, the distilla- l| tion will arrive at a greater degree of perfection, U and the use of burnt alum, whites of eggs, isin- ■iiglass, &c. to fine down the liquor produced, may n be dispensed with, as they will presently fine of Kthemselves, be sweet and pleasant tasted, without B any farther trouble. S98 SPIRIT dealer’s Of Double Cinnamon Water. To make four gallons, take two pounds oft cinnamon, bruised, four gallons of clean rectified i spirit, and two quarts of water; put them into the still and digest them 24 hours with a gentle1 heat, then draw off 4 gallons with a pretty briskf fire. Note 1st.—If more is wanted, increase the ingredients in equal proportion, and if a cheaper water is wanted, lessen the quantity of cinnamon, and add Cassia Lignea in its stead. Note Id.—If the water is wanted dulcified, add 2 pounds double refined sugar to a gallon. In the distilling of this water proper care must be taken, that at the end of the operation, none of the faints mix with the fine goods ; this may be observed by trying it often as it comes from the worm, and the spirit will have an azure bluish r colour, the faints may be kept and put into the (' still, when more of the same goods are to be f made. Note 3c?.—It may also be necessary to ob- ' serve, that all goods made up proof, is called double, and those below proof, single; this observation may suffice for the knowing of this i distinction, &c. Of Clove Water. The fruit of the clove is oblong and not thick, resembling a nail, the surface is rough and of a dusky brown colour with a mixture of red; it is extremely fragrant, and an acid, pungent aro- ASSISTANT. S99 malic taste, its virtues are carminative, and is said to be good in many disorders. To make Four Gallons. 1st. Take of cloves, 1 pound; pimento, J pound; clean proof spirit, 4 gallons; then digest and draw it olf with a brisk fire. To make Four Gallons. 2d. Take Winter’s bark, 1 pound; pimento, ounces; cloves, 6 ounces; clean proof spirits, 4 gallons; digest and draw it off with a pretty brisk fire. i Note 1st.—The Winter's bark is the bark of a large tree growing in several parts of America, 'discovered by Cap. Winter, from which it has its name. Note. 2d.—If wanted, it may be coloured with cochineal, alkanet root or poppy flowers, &c. It lay also be sweetened to taste, with refined l^ugar. Note 3d.—If a cheap water is wanted, take £ mnce of cloves, and 2 drams of carraway seeds tor each gallon of water. Of Lemon Water. The peel of the lemon is used in the making bf this water, it is a grateful bitter aromatic, and & said to be serviceable in strengthening the itomach. To make Five Gallons. Take of lemon peel dried, 2 pounds; clean fcroof spirit 5 gallons; water, 2 quarts; draw off k k 2 400 SPIRIT DEALER’S by a gentle fire. Some dulcify this water, but it impairs its virtues. Of Rosemary Water. Rosemary is the principal ingredient, and it is supposed that the flowers possess the virtues ofi the plant in a greater degree than any other | part, but the flowery tops, leaves and husks, are j much fitter for this purpose than the flowers alone. To make Five Gallons. Take the flower tops and leaves, 7 pounds? rectified spirits, 6 gallons; water, 2 quarts; distil with a moderate fire. Note.—Some add lavender flowers or orris- j1 root, but rosemary alone is most esteemed. This I water must be distilled by the water bath. Of Aniseed Water. Aniseed is small, of an oblong shape, ending in an obtuse point, it is of a soft and lax substance, very light and easily broken. Its colour is a pale olive, it has a very strong aromatic smell, and sweetish but acrid taste, and not dis- jt. agreeable. This plant is cultivated in France, | but the best comes from Malta. To make Five Gallons. 1st. Take of bruised aniseed, 1 pound; proof ; spirits, 6 gallons; water, 2 quarts; distil with a moderate fire. ASSISTANT. 401 To make Five Gallons. 2d. Take anise and angelica seeds, 1 pound each; proof spirits, 6 gallons; draw off with a gentle fire. Note.—Aniseed water should not be reduced below proof, else it will be milky and white. But if this should be the case, filter through blotting or cap paper, which will restore its transparency. Aniseed water is a good carminative. Of Carr away Seed Water. Carraway seeds are slender, of an oblong , figure, pointed at both epds and thick in the It middle, considerably heavy, of a brown colour, and somewhat glossy, its smell is very penetrating, but not dissagreeable, and of a hot, acrid, and bitterish taste. This plant grows wild in the meadows of France and Italy, but it is sown in the fields in Germany and many other parts of Europe. ■ To make Five Gallons. Is#. Take 1J pounds carraway seeds, bruised; 6 gallons proof spirits; 1 gallon water; draw off till the faints begin to rise, make up the goods with clean water, and dulcify with sugar to taste. To make Five Gallons. 2d. Take of carraway seeds bruised, Impounds; iprange or lemon peel dried, | pound; proof pirits, 6 gallons; 1 gallon water; draw off and jHulcify with sugar to taste as before. .! | Note.—Carraway water is a good carminative tiknd much pleasanter than aniseed water, k k 3 4Q2 SPIRIT DEALER’S Of Mint Water. The mint for which the receipt is given, is common spearmint, it is so well known, that it needs no description. To make Five Gallons. Take dry spearmint leaves, 7 pounds; proof spirit, 5 gallons; water, 1 gallon; draw off by a gentle heat, dulcify, if required. Boerhaave and Hoffman recommends this water as a preventive against vomiting, nausea, cholic, &c. Of Peppermint Water. The qualities of the peppermint are similar to the spearmint, only its virtues are more powerful. To make Five Gallons. Take of dry peppermint leaves, 7 pounds; proof spirit, 5 gallons; water, 2 quarts; draw off by a gentle fire, dulcify, if thought necessary, j To make Five Gallons Orange Water. Take fresh orange peel, pounds; clean proof spirits, 6 gallons; water, 1 gallon; distil and draw off with a gentle fire. Note.—This water may be used for making bitter tinctures, &c. Of Wormwood Water. Wormwood is well known, so that it needs no description, it is so extremely bitter that no ani- ASSISTANT. 403 mal touches it, it was formerly used among ale, before hops were introduced. To make Five Gallons. Isf. Take of the leaves of wormwood dried, 2^ pounds; cardamom seeds, 2J; coriander seeds, 8 ounces; of clean proof spirit, 5g gallons; water, 2 quarts; draw off with a gentle fire till the faints begin to rise. It may either be dulcified with sugar or not, at pleasure. To make Five Gallons. ’Id. Take of common and sea wormwood dried, of each 5 pounds; of mint, sage and balm dried, of each 10 handfuls; or the roots of galangal, ginger, calamus aromaticus, and elecampane seeds, of sweet fennel and coriander, ounces; of cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, cardamoms and cubebs, of each 1 ounce; cut and bruise the ingredients, digest them 24 hours into 5J gallons of fine proof spirit, and 1 gallon of water, and draw off with a pretty brisk fire till the faints begin to rise. i\ ote.—This is an excellent composition, and said good to be for all diseases of the stomach, arising from wind or bad digestion. To make Five Gallons Camomile Flower Water. Take 2£ pounds of camomile flowers, dried; the peel of oranges, 5 ounces; leaves of common wormwood and pennyroyal, of each 10 handfuls; aniseed, common sweet fennel, bay and juniper berries, of each 2£ ounces; digest these 404 SPIRIT DEALER’S ingredients two days in 5 gallons of proof spirits, and 1^ gallons of water, and distil with a gentle fire. Note.—This is a good stomachic and carminative. Of Nutmeg Water. Nutmeg is well known in this country for its fine agreeable flavour and aromatic taste, it therefore needs no description here. To make Five Gallons. ls£. Take half a pound of nutmegs bruised; proof • spirits, 5 gallons; water, 1 gallon; run it off with a brisk fire, and if necessary, it may be dulcified to taste. To make Five Gallons. 2d. Take of nutmegs bruised, £ pound; orange peel, 1 ounce; proof spirits, 5 gallons; water, 1 gallon; distil with a brisk fire. Note.—This is an excellent cordial, and agreeable to the palate. To make Five Gallons of Spirituous Pennyroyal Water. Take pennyroyal leaves dried, 7| pounds; proof spirits, 5 gallons; water, 1 gallon; distil with a gentle fire. Note.—This is a good carminative. It is of known efficacy in promoting the menses, and other disorders of the female sex. Of Jessamine Water. Of the jessamine there are several sorts, but the sort intended here, is called Sjianish white or Catalonian jessamine; it is the most beautiful of the species, and the flowers much larger, of a red colour on the outside, and extremely fragrant. If the flowers of this species cannot be preserved, those of common jessamine may be taken, but the quantity will require to be nearly doubled. To make Two Gallons. Take of Spanish jessamine flowers, 1 pound 8 ounces; essence of Florentine, citron or ber- gamot, 1 pound; fine proof spirit, 2 gallons; water, 1 gallon; digest two days in a close vessel, then draw off and dulcify with fine sugar. Note.—This is a most excellent cordial, and ought to be well known. Of Usquebaugh. This a very celebrated cordial, the basis of which is saffron. There are many ways of making this compound, but the following receipts will be found equal to any. To make Five Gallons. l with a little isinglass. IOf Wormwood Cordial. For 6 gallons, take 4 gallons of spirits, 4 pennyweight of the oil of oranges, 4 pennyweight of the oil of carraway, 2 pennyweight of the oil of wormwood, ^ ounce of almond cake, 1 ounce of coriander seed, 1 ounce of Virginian snake root, 1 pound of sugar, 1 gallon of water; steep the coriander seed, almond cake, and Virginian snake root, four days in the spirit, and kill the \ oils to make them incorporate. Of Killing the Oils. To kill the oils properly, beat them in a morter with a little loaf sugar and salt of tartar, till 1 they are well mixed; then add a little spirit of i wine, rub them well together, till no appearance o of the oil be left. Of Peppermint Cordial. For 6 gallons, take 4 gallons of spirits, 5 pen- 416 SPIRIT DEALER’ nyweights of the oil of peppermint, 3 pounds 12 ounces loaf sugar, 2 gills spirit of wine, and 2 gallons of water—kill the oils as directed. Of Aniseed Cordial. For 6 gallons, take S£ gallons of spirits, 10 pennyweights of the oil of aniseed, 2 pounds of loaf sugar, 2 gills spirit of wine, and gallons of water; kill the oils, and fine this with alum only. Of Carr away Cordial. For 6 gallons, take 3J gallons of spirits, 6 pennyweights of the oil of carraway, 4 ounces of cassia, 4 pounds loaf sugar, 2 gills spirit of wine, and 2£ gallons of water; the carraway and cassia seeds must be well pounded, and steeped for three days in a quart of spirits; kill the oils, and fine it with alum and salt of tartar, same as gin. Note Carraway is also called carvi—the seeds are well known to have a pleasant spicy smell, and a warm aromatic taste; and on this account, are used for various economical purposes, such as flavouring bread, confections, &c. Of Clove Cordial. For 6 gallons, take 4 gallons< of spirits, 1 pound of clove pepper, 4 pennyweights of the oil of cloves, 1 quart of elder juice, 3 pounds of loaf sugar, 1 gallon, 1 quart water. To colour ASSISTANT. 417 this compound, put some archel in a bag, press it out in the spirit till it become a deep red; let it fine of itself. If it is wanted white, bruise out the elder juice and archel, and fine it the same as gin. Note.—Archel is a whitish moss growing upon the rocks in the Cape Verd island, which yields a rich purple tincture, not durable in dyeing, but extremely beautiful; it gives out its colour readily to water, volatile spirits, or alcohol. Of Common Ratafia. 1st. To make 5 gallons of common ratafia, take of nutmegs, 4 ounces; bitter almonds, 5 pounds; Lisbon sugar, 4 pounds; ambergris, 5 grains; infuse these ingredients three days in 5 gallons of clean proof spirit; then filter it through a flannel bag for use. Note.—Bruise the nutmegs and bitter almonds, and rub the sugar in a morter before they are infused in the spirit. Of Common Ratafia.

CONTAINED IN THE WORK. j. It will no doubt by some be thought super- luous, the comparison of weights and measures, ihe history of the progress of the growth and lecay of vines in different countries, and the ex- ensive consumpt of the nectarious juice among he opulent, likewise the curious remarks and i lOtes upon the same, but those who are of this ; ray of thinking, should consider that every one 8 as not the same knowledge, nor the same op- ortunity of receiving it; also, these remarks ive a sort of life to the subject, which other- rise might seem dead and uninteresting, and the Kving receipts simply, without any remarks, is (a old beaten track which has been followed tese hundred years, which path I have endea- red to deviate from as much as possible, and ;rever I thought that a note or remark was icessary for the making a receipt more simple, and explicit, I have introduced it; or when 430 GENERAL REMARKS. other ingredients may be used, besides those contained in the body of the receipt; I have introduced them into the Notes that they may be either put into the compound, or kept out at pleasure. It may be thought also, that it is unnecessary to attend to all the little minutiae in the receipts given for the management of foreign wines, but I assert that it is highly necessary that every thing be attended to, and when a thorough un- derstanding of their fining and proper management is obtained, the operator can dispense with any part of the operation which with safety can be omitted. The same may be remarked with respect to the making of vinegars. In the making of home wines, cyder, perry, spruce and ginger beer, compounds, &c. or all liquors which require to be fermented, the proper degree of heat must be particularly attended to, as the same heat will not do at all times, but those who are in the practice of making fermentable liquors, would do well to purchase a thermometer, which would only cost from 3s. to 4s. whereby the degree of heat would be taken with more ease, accuracy and exactness, viz. 54 on Fahrenheit in temperate weather, and a little higher on the scale when the weather is colder. In any compound which requires sugar, care must be taken that the proportion of sugar be neither too great nor too small, as either of the extremes are equally injurious to fermentation, which if not carefully attended to, the effect will be the total failure of the receipt, and only an insipid almost tasteless liquor will be produced. GENERAL REMARKS. 431 Likewise, although the proportions be minutely taken, and the proper heat neglected, the effect will be the same, and while the failure is entirely owing to want of attention on the part of the operator, the receipt will immediately be pro- nounced wrong, when, if it had been followed in all its parts, a liquor would have been produced in the highest degree of perfection, pleasant and agreeable of its kind. Some objections may be started to the chemical names used, but I have simplified the names as much as possible, and notwithstanding of this, any ingredient made use of will be found in the apothecaries’ shops, by the name given it in the work, so that none can be at a loss in this respect.In order to produce liquors of any description good, cleanliness and temperature are particularly to be attended to, without which it is merely impossible to produce good and whol- some liquor, as both tends to cause the liquor lose its vinous taste, become sour, vapid and foul. I have given no ingredient that is dangerous or unwholesome in the receipts, without telling that it is so, and leaving it to the compounder to use it or not as he sees meet. Compounding of spiritous liquors, such as rum, gin, brandy, whisky, &c. is very precarious, and ill to manage properly, but if done with propriety, is of the utmost advantage to the spirit dealer. Some may startle at porter being mixed with rum, and sour small beer with whisky, but for my own part I would prefer it be- * m m 2 432 GENERAL REMARKS. fore that made up with the purest water, as it is much more mellow and pleasant to the taste;but after the mixture is made, it must be filtered, else it will not have that transparent appearance which it is necessary that it should have. Whisky after passing through the filter may have a small tinge similar to straw colour, but by some this is liked as having the appearance of age. Salt, may by some be thought injurious to the spirit, but if the quantity be not too great, it will improve and fine it, carrying all the feculencies to the bottom, making it pure and transparent, and a little alum or soda will have the effect of making it carry a bead when shaken. Spirits seldom require filtering when strong, except the bottom of the casks, as the density of the particles makes them fall to the bottom; it is only when they may be rather over much reduced or compounded, be white of the colour, or may be black by the touch of iron or any other cause. When any particular flavour is to be given to spirits, if an oil, the oil must be killed, or mixed up with some other ingredient to make it incorporate, for oils are lighter than spirits, and of course it would float upon the top; in this case filtration is necessary: But if the flavour is to be given by herbs or roots, only put them in a small bag, and suspend them in the cask; and they may be taken out when the degree of flavour necessary* is imported. GENERAL REMARKS. 453 With respect to ale, porter or beer becoming sour, if the spirit dealer does not wish to recover it, he can, if called for, when drawing off a pot from a cask that is soft, add a half or a third, &c., according to the degree of hardness required. Or he may reduce his rum with porter, his brandy with strong beer, and his whisky with strong or small beer; filtering it afterwards to bring it to that degree of purity necessary. I have given a sketch of the nature of distillation and brewing, and the process of extracting essences by the hot and cold still, water bath, and by infusion, so that any who try the experiment cannot fail of success ; some of spirituousthese are ofliquors particular and advantageapothecaries; to dealersas with in ease and certainty, they can extract any flavour from flowers or herbs; and impart it in an advantageous manner, and in any quantity to their liquors, if a particular flavour is wanted. There may be an objection to this, that every one has not a still; this is true: but could not a few join in the purchasing and erection of a small still, as a very small still would answer the end, and the cost would only be a trifle to each, and it would be ready at all times, and the saving would very soon repay the trouble and outlay. The cordials and compounds also given, may, in some cases, be mixed with spirits to great i advantage, although hitherto not brought into l practice: What is Athol brose but a mixture I of honey, eggs and whisky? What is punch * m m 3 1 4S4. GENERAL REMARKS. but a compound of sugar, whisky, rum or brandy, water and lemon? and might not many more compounds be mixed with spirits which would produce drink much more pleasant. I think all that is necessary is an introduction: for it is only of late that spruce and' ginger beer have been introduced, which is neither more nor less than a compound of the essence of spruce or ginger, sugar, water, and a little lemon or cream of tartar fermented. The bitters from the receipts may be made up, and kept for use, and may be mixed up with liquors, to give them any degree of bitterness, according to taste. Upon the whole, if the receipts are properly followed out, and not any part neglected, they will succeed, but there is such a partiality to follow the old beaten track, that nothing new will be tried, for fear of loss by the spoiling of the goods; but cannot the proportions of the ingredients be decreased, and a small quantity tried; when that succeeds, increase the liquor and ingredients in equal proportion, by which means any quantity may be made with ease, safety and dispatch. If these remarks upon the receipts and notes contained in the work are found useful, I have gained my end, and those whom they may concern, can apply them to the best advantage.

FINIS. •t. { ■ f /o f'1- J ' , ... ^ -

/ O j:. :•/ ^ /i ^5 /- / > v'4 - ?. / / i L,-/ ■ /e-