NO. 48 FULL-SERVICE RESTAURANTS : SETTING AMERICA’S TABLE

®

Beers for 2018 111 Ideas for Innovation Cold-Brew Cocktails Surprising Sides

Urban Cowboy

Kimbal Musk sits down with FSR and explains his strategy to disrupt the casual-dining segment with urban casual. BEST PRACTICES 111 Ideas for Menu Innovation

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BY AMANDA BALTAZAR, CONNIE GENTRY, AMELIA LEVIN, BEVERLY STEPHEN THINKSTOCK

50 NOVEMBER 2017 FOODNEWSFEED.COM BEST PRACTICES

ACCESSORIZE WITH SAUCES AND SIDES:

1. SAVORY YOGURT 5. AÇAI Carl Jorgensen, director of Touted as a food superhero, thought leadership with açai is appearing every- Daymon, believes we’ll see where. The most popular savory yogurt take off in preparation is açai bowls— sandwich sauces and sides. smoothies containing ber- ries, nuts, grains, oatmeal, 2. ROMESCO SAUCE and their ilk. An orange sauce made with roasted red peppers, 6. SAMBAL romesco is gaining traction. Especially popular in Indo- Traditionally served with nesia and Malaysia, sam- fish, at Gato in New York bal is a sauce with a kick.

City it’s served with eggs Its ingredients vary, and so EMMER & RYE and with a pork chop. do its uses. Dish it up with noodles, eggs, or as a dip. 10. FRESHLY MILLED GRAINS 3. BARBERRIES (KTUVVJG[OCFGVJGRCUVCKPJQWUGVJGPVJG[DCMGF Tagged by McCormick as a 7. GOCHUJANG their own bread; now, more chefs are milling their own flavor-leader, tart barberries This fermented Korean chili ƃQWT%JGH-GXKP(KPMCV'OOGT4[GKP#WUVKP6GZCU can be used in sweet and paste can be used to add is a leading proponent. The restaurant is named after savory dishes, and are rec- heat and flavor. At Milk- his favorite grain, emmer, and he mills as many as 15 ognized in Persian cuisine. Wood in Louisville, Ken- FKHHGTGPVITCKPU RQRRKPIUQTIJWOTGFƂHGGKPMQTP tucky, it’s served, alongside etc.) for pastas, breads, and desserts. kimchi, with collard greens.

8. ADOBO NEGRO 11. AQUAFABA gluten-free. Use it in place McCormick pegged adobo The juice of canned gar- of whipped cream and negro sauce as a top trend banzo beans is being put whipped eggs. for 2017. This complex to good use in vegetar- Mexican sauce has flavors ian/vegan options. Says 12. SORGHUM from adobo, as well as mole, Maeve Webster, president Could sorghum become the stout beer, black sesame, of Menu Matters in Arling- next quinoa? Once thought MARGO HELGEN and . ton, Vermont, “It’s a huge of as a syrup or a feed for win for operators: no addi- cattle, this gluten-free grain 4. PRESERVED LEMONS 9. HONEY tional cost, relatively easy is growing in popularity. In Preserved lemons pro- Chefs are buzzing about to use, and requires no Charleston, South Caro- XKFGCYCNNQRQHƃCXQT honey and experiment- additional storage space.” lina, chef/owner Michael that chefs are embrac- ing with different types. In It also has no taste and Toscano at Le Farfalle uses ing. The linguine at Tulio New York City, The Stinger only a very mild scent. The freshly milled sorghum to in Seattle is served with Cocktail Bar & Kitchen product also speaks to give a Southern twist to his clams, preserved lemon, serves cocktails and food the no-waste kitchen and hand-rolled pappardelle, EJKNKƃCMGUCPFICTNKE with honey from bees on menus that are produce- topped with crisped panc- breadcrumbs. its own roof. forward, high-protein, and etta and charred escarole.

FOODNEWSFEED.COM NOVEMBER 2017 51 BEST PRACTICES

PROFILING WITH AND FLAVORS:

17. SKHUG/ZHUG 23. ZA’ATAR This Middle Eastern hot Chris Koetke, executive sauce is made from peppers, director of Kendall College garlic, and spices. It comes School of Culinary Arts in in red or green versions and Chicago, says za’atar spice is listed in McCormick’s is big—and becoming big- 2017 Flavor Forecast. ger. Mamnoon in Seattle mixes it with olive oil for 18. PEPPER bread dipping. McCormick also predicted 13. BUTTER espelette pepper would take Fat is back. Consumers have been increasingly reject- off this year. Les Sablons in ing products like imitation butter in favor of products Cambridge, Massachusetts, that are perceived as more natural or clean. It’s even serves this medium-hot encroached into the quick-serve arena—McDonald’s smoky pepper with mari- began swapping out margarine for butter in 2015. The nated black bass, along with higher-end restaurants are making butter a focal point, pistachio and basil oil. adding spices, vegetables, herbs, even marrow for a special touch in dishes or bread baskets. “It’s not just 19. BAHARAT SEASONING that real butter is considered more natural; there is a This Eastern Mediterra- growing perception that fats have an important place nean mix typically includes in a healthy diet,” says Mike Kostyo, senior publica- black pepper, cardamom, VKQPUOCPCIGTYKVJ&CVCUUGPVKCNCOGPWVTGPFƂTO cloves, cumin, nutmeg, based in Chicago. coriander, and . It’s used with proteins or to add flavor and color to rice. 14. CHIA SEEDS Go into any lunch place 20. TURMERIC 24. GHOST PEPPERS with a millennial following An Indian staple, turmeric Ghost peppers are like the Arlo SoHo, which has come to the fore for its one of the hottest chil- has “bodegas” instead of health benefits. Rivertown ies. Seven Steakhouse in mini bars, and you’ll see Lodge in Hudson, New Minneapolis offers a Rus- little pots of puddings York, dishes clams in a tur- sian Roulette sushi roll, and custards dotted with meric broth for a little kick. which hides a dollop of omega-3 powerhouse chia sauce in seeds. The Aztecs even 21. PIRI-PIRI one piece. used chia for currency. Also known as African 25.

MATZO PROJECT MATZO bird’s eye chili, piri-piri CURRY 15. WHEY refers to a spicy Portuguese According to Datassen- This byproduct of yogurt 16. EVERYTHING ON sauce made with peppers, tial, curry is now found on and cheese-making is EVERYTHING chilies, spices, and vinegar, nearly a fifth of all restau- finding its way into chefs’ This popular mix of poppy and is usually served with rant menus, and 71 percent smoothies, cocktails, and and sesame seeds, onion chicken. of consumers are famil- sauces, while also getting CPFICTNKEƃCMGUCPF iar with it, says the menu- cubed and put into sal- kosher or sea salt is jump- 22. HARISSA trend firm. And, while ads. Iliana Regan at Eliz- ing out of the bagel case Hailing from North Africa chicken curry salad tends abeth in Chicago uses it and landing on garlic and the Middle East, harissa to be the most common for fermenting cabbage, knots, chips, pizzas, and is another hot , application outside Indian romaine, and eggs. David more things. The Matzo packed with hot chilies and restaurants, curry is now Levi at Vinland in Port- Project proffers matzo spices like cumin and car- showing up in burritos, land, Maine, substitutes with “everything plus two away. Blend it into soups, burgers, cocktails, desserts, local whey for lemons. other things.” marinades, or even eggs. and appetizers. ANYTHING LABELED: THINKSTOCK NOT

52 NOVEMBER 2017 FOODNEWSFEED.COM BEST PRACTICES

29. BITTER FLAVORS Perhaps thanks to all those bitters in craft cocktails or the kale craze, Americans are getting used to bitter. Look for more bitter orange, cranberry, green leafy vegetables, broc- coli rabe, radicchio, grapefruit, bitter melon, and turmeric.

30. FERMENTING As more chefs make their own sauerkraut, kimchi, jams, pickled vegetables, and vinegar, health departments are realizing they need to find ways to allow more fermenting to take place. Chef Paul Fehribach of Big Jones in Chicago enjoys pickling unusual vegetables, like the purple sour bean. Sauerbohnen, as it is called in Germany, features green, wax, or purple beans fermented like sauerkraut. At the restaurant, Jones juliennes the beans and then dresses them with a slurry of rice flour and a little sugar to kick- start the fermentation. Seasoned with ginger, red pepper, and benne seeds, the beans come out really sour, piquant,

SANDEEP GYAWALI and fragrant. Fermenting has also found a new friend in the form of 26. MESQUITE sourdough starters for pizza dough and breads that use Chefs have been grilling over mesquite wood since natural levain and heritage or ancient grains. Pizzas at Area the early days of California cuisine. But who knew you Four Boston showcase hand-stretched dough made from could eat the pods? This ancient food of Southwest a 16-year-old sourdough starter that’s been fermented for desert dwellers is being rediscovered and hailed as 36–40 hours prior to use. the newest superfood. Mesquite is gluten-free and a source of protein, plus just about every mineral from calcium to zinc. It can be used as a sweetener and a ƃQWTUWDUVKVWVG#WUVKP6GZCUPGWTQUEKGPVKUVCPFDCMGT Sandeep Gyawali is a mesquite missionary preaching a IQURGNQHDTKPIKPIVJGWDKSWKVQWU%GPVTCN6GZCURNCPV back to the modern diet. He typically uses about 5 per- EGPVOGUSWKVGƃQWTKPVJGCTVKUCPCNNQCXGUJGDCMGUKP his garage by night and sells by subscription under the name Miche. He also believes the pods could be the PGZVXCPKNNCDGCP9KVJVJGJGNRQHUQOGITCPVUJG hopes to be able to harvest and mill enough mesquite to put it on the radar of local chefs and reintroduce OGUSWKVGƃQWTCUCRCPVT[UVCRNG

27. COCONUT 28. RED HOT CHILI

Suddenly coconut is the fla- PEPPERS RAWMEDIUM ARTS vor du jour. The Real Coco- The of Heat nut restaurant in Tulum, (shu) rates peppers in a 31. AJI PEPPERS Mexico, features grilled range from 1,000 to over Classically used in Peruvian ceviche and other dishes avocado halves marinated 2,000,000. The from that country, aji chilies can be swapped in as a with coconut aminos, and clocks in at about 150,000, OQTGEQNQTHWNCPFƃCXQTHWNJQVRGRRGT#V47-#KP a healing bone broth fla- while the The Trinidad Boston, aji panca chilies are paired with chili oil, black vored with coconut milk. Moruga Scorpion comes vinegar, cilantro crema, and crispy sweet potato as the Hand-squeezed coconut in at more than 1,200,000 ICTPKUJHQT%JCQ5JQWRQTMYQPVQPU#UKFGHTQOaji milk turns up on ceviche and the hottest, the Caro- panca, other common variations are aji amarillo (yellow at E.P. in West Hollywood, lina Reaper, lands at more chili), ayucullo, cereza, charapa, limo, mono, and pin- California. than 2,000,000 on the SHU. guita de mono from Peru.

FOODNEWSFEED.COM NOVEMBER 2017 53 BEST PRACTICES

BOOST THE BEVERAGE MENU WITH ...

32. UPSCALE LEMONADE 36. KOMBUCHA Soda is out and non-fizzy In ancient China, kom- drinks are in, especially bucha was known as the lemonade. Keep it simple immortal health elixir, and or jazz it up; Oak Grill in restaurants are serving it Newport Beach, California, as a non-alcoholic beverage offers Watermelon Mint alternative. Lemonade. 37. GINGER The popularity of ginger drinks grew 79 percent between 2016 and 2017,

according to Google. STEVEN FREIHON

38. CHARCOAL IN 41. NEGRONI COCKTAILS The Italian-inspired cocktail was invented in Italy in Charcoal in capsule form is 1919 when Count Camillo Negroni asked the bar- adding hue to cocktails. Not tender at the Hotel Baglioni in Florence to fortify his Kilgore’s Drano at Spoke & Americano with gin. Dante in New York City’s Green- Steele in Indianapolis con- wich Village has a 12-deep Negroni menu. Le Farfalle tains Scotch, rye, lemon, in Charleston, South Carolina, offers 10 Negroni vari- thyme agave syrup, saline ations. Missy Robbins (Lilia, Brooklyn) believes a great solution, and charcoal. Negroni and a classic Aperol spritz are a must for any Italian restaurant. 39. EGG CREAMS 33. ORANGE WINES Once found only in tradi- Ranging in color from tional Jewish delis, this white to tawny brown, fizzy concoction of choco- orange wines mature with late syrup, milk, and seltzer the grape seeds and skin. water is making something Waypoint in Cambridge, of a comeback, thanks to Massachusetts, cate- new twists from pastry gorizes them under its chefs and bartenders. Sleeping Beauties section. 40. SEEDLIP 34. NITRO-BREW COFFEE Believed to be the world’s Nitro coffees—cold brews first distilled non-alcoholic infused with nitrogen—are spirit, Seedlip is “what capitalizing on the growth to drink when you’re not 42. ROSÉ 43. CIDER in cold-brew coffee, whose drinking.” It’s a little like Wine drinkers are reading Apples are the primary sales grew 115 percent in gin, except it’s non-alco- lists through rosé-colored source of this fermented 2015, according to Mintel. holic. Creator Ben Bran- glasses. Its versatility with alcoholic beverage, which son combines six botani- salads, cheeses, pastas, is becoming increas- 35. MATCHA cals—allspice, grapefruit, ITKNNGFOGCVCPFƂUJKU ingly popular on restau- Made from green tea leaves, lemon peel, cardamom, appealing to restaura- rant lists. Wassail, a cider- matcha is a nutritional cascarilla bark, Ameri- teurs and customers alike. focused restaurant that powerhouse, including a can oak—steeps them in It’s also an affordable opened on New York lot of caffeine. At The Hay grain alcohol, and then dis- splurge for breakfast/ City’s lower east side in Merchant in Houston, the tills to remove the alcohol. brunch. Sales are now 2015, is credited with Green Geisha cocktail con- Bartenders are using it to topping out at $207 mil- spurring interest in the tains dry gin, lime, and make craft, non-alcoholic lion annually, a 50 percent beverage and its pairing

matcha. cocktails. increase over last year. potential. LABELED: THINKSTOCK ANYTHING NOT

54 NOVEMBER 2017 FOODNEWSFEED.COM BEST PRACTICES

48. BOULEVARDIER This cousin of the Negroni is made with whiskey instead of gin. It was origi- nally invented in the 1920s.

49. SHERRY Demand for sherry is up, thanks largely to exper- 50. LIMONCELLO imental bartenders. In This Southern Italian the last two decades, lemon liqueur is making sherry sales have quintu- inroads in the States. At pled at Taberna de Haro Domenica in New Orleans, in Brookline, Massachu- the house-infused limon- setts, and the restaurant cello presented in enor- carries more than 100 mous glass urns is as 44. MESCAL different bottles. much décor as drink. Distilled from the agave plant, mescal is tequila’s UOQM[EQWUKP+VUUNQYTQCUVGFUOQM[ƃCXQTJCUOCFG it a hit with bartenders. San Francisco’s La Urbana is opening with 80 varieties. At Leyenda in Brooklyn, a cocktail named Tia Mia is made with mescal, rum, cura- cao, and almond syrup. And The Palomaesque Cock- tail at Comal in Berkeley, California, uses grapefruit soda and Cocchi Americano, an Italian aperitif.

45. SORGHUM WHISKEY 46. ARTISAN BOOZE Spirits authority Brian Changing tastes and Van Flandern and his changing laws made the partners distill from the growth of small distill- sorghum stalk to make ers possible in states from the distinctive sorghum New York to Texas. Craft whiskey James F.C. Hyde distilleries embrace the Sorgho, which is dry like prevailing ethos and use T[GCPFƂPKUJGUNKMGCIGF local, organic, non-GMO TWO;QWoNNƂPFKVQPVJG grains. The volume of shelf at New York City’s small-batch spirits is pre- The Dead Rabbit. dicted to grow from 4.9 million cases in 2015 to more than 25 million by BOLEO 2020. No doubt there will be eager fans drinking up. 51. LOW-ALCOHOL COCKTAILS As day-drinking gains steam, consumers have turned to lower-alcohol session beers as a step up from 47. AMARO domestics, and now cocktails are also getting lighter. “Italian bitter liqueurs and digestifs cover a whole range of At Boleo in Chicago, Jess Lambert serves Peruvian- flavor, from Fernet Branca’s bitter bitter to Montenegro’s and Argentine-inspired low-ABV cocktails such as chil- bitter sweet,” says spirits authority Brian Van Flandern. canos, which has pisco infused with ginger and carbon- “Amaros are being used as a modifying spirit in cocktails to ation, along with cranberry and sage or vanilla bean add a bitter component and balance it out.” There are some and orange. She makes her own fernet with blueberry, Italian restaurants with extensive Amaro lists, such as grape, apple, saffron, and eucalyptus notes for a lower- Domenica in New Orleans and Locanda and Bar Agricole in alcohol spirit, infused with cola, and as a replacement

ANYTHING NOT LABELED: THINKSTOCK ANYTHING NOT San Francisco. for rum in daiquiris.

FOODNEWSFEED.COM NOVEMBER 2017 55 BEST PRACTICES

BURN, SMOKE, CHAR: LIGHT UP THE MENU. first to have an Argentine-style grill and to take full advan- tage of the V-shaped troughs designed to catch the juices 55. SMOKY DRINKS and fats rather than letting them drip onto the coals. He Smoke-filled rooms may calls these juices “black gold,” and enhances them by lin- have gone out of fashion, ing the troughs with lemon, garlic, and herbs, then uses the but bar flies like the taste juice to baste the meats and vegetables he grills. in Margaritas and Old Fashions. Some bartenders place a glass upside down A BREAK FROM BEEF, CHICKEN, AND PORK. over an extinguished flame to capture smoke, or they infuse spirits with smoky ingredients like .

DEL CAMPO DEL Mescal and peaty Scotches have a naturally smoky fla- 52. SMOKED DESSERTS vor. Chef Jared Bennett of Named a top trend by Metropole in Cincinnati is the NRA, smoked is here working with a local brewer to stay. At Del Campo in on a smoked grape beer. Washington, D.C., carrot cake is grilled to make it smoky, then garnished with grilled carrots and fruit. YARD HOUSE

53. PYROTECHNICS 58. POKE “Waiter, the Brussels Having exploded in fast casuals, poke is rising in full- sprouts on this pizza are service chain settings as well. Yard House offers a poke burned and so are the broc- stack with marinated ahi, crispy wontons, avocado, and coli spears in the salad!” wasabi soy sauce. From P.F. Chang’s wok- ANN WATSONANN PHOTOGRAPHY charred Brussels sprouts to the blackened avo- 56. FIRE 59. CELLULAR Matthew Accarrino (San cado at Nix (nyc), veg- Chefs are returning to AGRICULTURE Francisco) predicts it gies are browned, blistered, VJGGNGOGPVUWUKPIƂTG Chefs are teaming with sci- could become “the other crisped—in short, burnt— ashes, and smoke. It’s entists to discover environ- white meat.” He menus and the public is eating it one of the hottest hap- mentally friendly forms a variety of rabbit dishes, up. Even finicky children penings across the indus- of meat production. That such as a prosciutto- are accepting the blow- try. For instance, every includes using cell cultures wrapped rabbit rou- torched version of once- single thing at ARC Food from live animals to grow lade with braised rabbit shunned green things. and Libations in Costa meat in petri dishes with- shoulder and drumstick. Mesa, California, is out any animal slaugh- 54. WOOD-FIRED EQQMGFD[ƂTG ter necessary. Other food EVERYTHING makers are finding ways The smell of a campfire, 57. ARGENTINE GRILLS to produce eggs without the glow of a hearth; it Live-fire cooking on expan- chickens and milk with- all entrances customers. sive grills with adjustable out cows. Every serious pizza place grates that can be raised has a wood-burning oven, or lowered are all the rage 60. RABBIT which also does double with chefs. “People love Sustainable, nutritious, duty for meats and vegeta- the smell of wood burning,” and delicious—and easy bles. There are even wood- says Greg Denton, chef/ to butcher whole—rab- fired eggs at Lunetta All owner of Ox in Portland, bit is hopping onto res-

Day in Santa Monica. Oregon. He was one of the taurant menus. SPQR’s SPQR

56 NOVEMBER 2017 FOODNEWSFEED.COM Charred fruits and veggies are in today as chefs are using pyrotechnics (see # 53) on everything from zucchini and tomatoes to Brussels sprouts and avocado.

FOODNEWSFEED.COM NOVEMBER 2017 57 BEST PRACTICES

65. TOFU 66. PLANT-BASED Chefs are beginning to ALTERNATIVES make their own soft Consumers are eating tofu as a lighter, brighter less meat today: 31 per- replacement for cheeses, cent believe meat is no lon- and are finding other uses ger essential to the human for the plant-based protein. diet (per Datassential) and The Honey Paw in Portland, 23 percent of meat-eat- Maine, sources Heiwa tofu, ers would prefer to eat less a handcrafted ingredient of it. Plant-based protein made from Maine-grown alternatives can be found soybeans. In place of pork, in non-dairy milks (cashew, the restaurant serves hemp, almond, soy, rice, tofu in a classic Szechuan pea), as well as in foods SOLERO Mapo dish with fermented like tofu, tempeh, coconut 61. EXOTIC GAME black bean, Szechuan chili, “jerky,” egg-free mayon- Thanks to the growth of chef-driven specialty distrib- mushrooms, and peanuts. naise, and more. utors, restaurants have access to a wider variety of game, from domestic game like venison, bison, pheas- ant, squab, and rabbit to varieties of pigeon and other game birds sourced from overseas, where laws around serving game in commercial settings are more lax than in the U.S. At the Spanish-inspired Salero in Chicago, Chef Ashlee Aubin puts an Iberian take on a grilled venison leg, serving it with dolmas, verjus, bacon, car- rots, and cabbage. Marinated in olive oil, rosemary, thyme, and garlic, the meat is served medium rare with house-made verjus, a quasi-wine vinegar made from pressed fall fruits and infused with juniper, clove, chic- ory, and allspice. AMERICAN LAMB BOARD 62. SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD lesser-known seafood to More chefs are offering UWRRQTVNQECNƂUJGTKGU 67. LAMB only seafood that can be and broaden their menus, Lamb is becoming more popular in ground or sausage defined as sustainable. others in the middle of HQTOVQRNC[QHHVJGRQRWNCTKV[QH0QTVJ#HTKECPƃC- Lantern in Chapel Hill, the country are doing vors or to add depth to traditional Italian dishes. East- North Carolina, focuses the same with freshwater ern Standard in Boston offers a baked rigatoni with on “trash” fish, which are ƂUJ/CP[KPVJG/KFYGUV lamb and pork sausage, creamy pink sauce, and ricotta, low in the food chain and source things like sus- while merguez takes center stage at Black Cat in San reproduce and grow quickly. tainably caught trout out (TCPEKUEQCVQRCƃCVDTGCFYKVJVCJKPK[QIWTVCPF of Wisconsin rivers, and house-made harissa. 63. TORO—FISH BELLY walleye from the Great In recent years, more Lakes. menus have been spin- NEWBIES TO PERK UP THE PLATE. ning fish stories around this ingredient. At Siren in 68. ARTISAN CHEESE 69. GREEN GREENS Washington, D.C., flatbread Packaged Facts predicts Waste-free restaurants are is topped with whipped fish that the specialty cheese catching on—to keep up belly poached in olive oil. market will grow by 3.5 with the trending PC mind- percent annually. At Tres set and cut costs. The Peren- 64. FRESHWATER FISH in Tempe, Arizona, diners nial in San Francisco uses As operators on the east can build their own cheese cauliflower stems, day-old

and west coasts seek out JONES BIG board for $5 per cheese. bread, and fava bean shells.

58 NOVEMBER 2017 FOODNEWSFEED.COM BEST PRACTICES

75. LITTLE GEM LETTUCE 76. GRILLED PINEAPPLE The darling of the let- The sugar in this tropi- tuce world is a hybrid of cal fruit caramelizes nicely, romaine and butter let- creating attractive tuce. It’s crisp in salads and brown stripes sturdy enough to braise or and a slightly grill. You’d be hard-pressed DWVVGTUEQVEJƃC to fi nd a California menu vor. Great in pork without it, but it’s making dishes or as garnishes inroads nationally. for mescal cocktails. ARIELLE VEY ARIELLE

70. SPICY DESSERTS The NRA listed savory desserts as a top trend for 2017. At Hello Betty in Oceanside, California, a best-selling dessert is a chocolate brownie spiked with ancho chili.

71. PURPLE FOODS 73. SEAWEED Purple is the new black. Can kelp be the next kale? Think purple caulifl ower, Nutrient-dense seaweeds potatoes, beets, black rice, are now showing up on

and açai. Purple also tends menus beyond sushi and FRANZEN NICOLE to designate health, with salads. Sugar kelp, alaria, these foods usually burst- dulse, Irish moss—these 77. CACIO E PEPE ing with antioxidants and are names to know. Chefs This traditional Roman spaghetti with Pecorino cheese nutrients. are leading the charge, and black pepper is these days found on pizza, crackers, pickling sugar kelp strips or garlic knots, rice balls, even ice cream. At Momofuku thickening seaweed panna Nishi in New York City, David Chang uses fermented cotta with Irish moss. chickpeas in place of Pecorino for his ceci e pepe. At Lilia in Brooklyn, Missy Robbins serves mafaldini sprin- kled with pink peppercorns and Parmesan. At Maialino in New York City, Nick Anderer serves cacio e pepe scrambled eggs for breakfast. And John Fraser at Nix (New York City) offers a shiitake cacio e pepe.

78. OVERNIGHT OATMEAL 79. SWISS CHARD

RUBEN CABRERARUBEN The Swiss have been doing One of the most nutritious 74. ARTISAN BREAD this for years and calling of all leafy vegetables, con- 72. JACKFRUIT Blame San Francisco it muesli. But millenni- taining all the usual sus- According to Datassen- uber-baker Chad Robert- als love the no-fuss break- pects in minerals and vita- tial, nearly 50 percent of son, but artisan loaves fast of oats, soaked over- mins, it may give kale a run consumers want to try are now showing up on night, with various fruits for the money. Sometimes the starchy jackfruit at restaurant tables across and nuts—and even chia it’s even paired with kale a restaurant. In Miami, the country. Freshly seeds—mixed in. Defi - in salads. The whole leaf is Soul Tavern gastropub OKNNGFƃQWTCPFNQPIHGT nitely a winner at hip bou- an innovative garnish for serves a jackfruit gyoza mentation are the keys to tique hotels like the Arlo cocktails at aRoqa restau-

ANYTHING NOT LABELED:ANYTHING THINKSTOCK NOT for $12. the crusty, tasty loaves. and Ian Schrager’s Public. rant in New York City.

FOODNEWSFEED.COM NOVEMBER 2017 59 BEST PRACTICES

84. ROOT VEGETABLES 85. HUMMUS Beets, ubiquitous in sum- This Middle mer salads as well as Eastern roasted for winter dishes, spread, tradi- lead the roots pack, accord- tionally made ing to Datassential, with a with chickpeas, 47 percent menu frequency tahini, olive oil, lemon in high-end restaurants. juice, and garlic, has Their rainbow hues lend gained international to beautiful presentations. popularity. Chefs have Meanwhile, parsnips are started adding puréed gaining traction, with 16.5 JAM beets, and some even percent frequency, and leave out the chickpeas. 80. BREAKFAST ALL DAY new kinds of turnips are Dizengoff in Philadelphia In L.A., Eggslut achieved cult status by proclaiming pushing their popularity to is dedicated to freshly that eggs were good all day every day. At Atla, the 12.6 percent. Chefs are also made hummus, often more casual sibling of Cosme in New York City, break- buying up sun chokes, cel- topped with elaborate fast dishes are drawing crowds until 4 P.M. Showstop- ery root, and radishes. proteins like spiced lamb. pers are upscale versions of chilaquilesYKVJƃCZUGGFU and a split pea tlacoyo.

81. PAPAYA 83. PORRIDGE Christopher Columbus Credit those visionary called this vitamin-rich Vikings. NOMA co- Central American delicacy founder Claus Meyer is the “fruit of the Angels.” A feeding throngs of com- refreshing summer snack, muters at New York it’s also used in smooth- City’s Grand Central ies and cocktails. Green Station bowls of either papaya is a common ingre- sweet or savory porridge. dient in salads at Viet- The hearty dishes, beau- namese and Thai restau- tifully decorated with rants. At Pujol in Mexico fruits, herbs, and edible City, Enrique Olvera serves ƃQYGTUCTGCVVJG)TCKP a nixtamalized papaya des- Bar in his Great Northern sert with yogurt, honey Food Hall. Pearl barley, ice cream, and crystallized freekah, sprouted wheat, lemon. and rye (cracked in his

stone mill in Queens) are BOARD MANGO NATIONAL 82. PHO the foundation for the Is Vietnamese noodle soup porridges. 86. MANGOES the new soup for the soul? .QPICUUQEKCVGFYKVJVTQRKECNEWKUKPGOCPIQKUƂPF Chef/restaurateur Charles ing its way into other savory pairings and as add-ins for Phan of The Slanted Door popular . Chef Chris Miracolo of S3 Res- and Out the Door in San taurant in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, adds a twist on Francisco, says he eats it the popular South American chimichurri condiment every day for breakfast— by using diced ripe mango as the star, paired with red and so do a lot of his cus- , lime, ginger juices, and a mango purée tomers. It’s showing up in instead of oil. He serves it with coffee-rubbed bavette health-centric restaurants, steaks, yucca fries, and a vinaigrette. At Chau- food halls, even at Trea- han Ale & Masala House in Nashville, Tennessee, the sure Island in Las Vegas. mango mint chutney is a menu regular, often paired GREAT NORTHERN FOOD HALL FOOD NORTHERN GREAT Pronounce it “fuh.” with lamb or chicken kebabs. LABELED:ANYTHING THINKSTOCK NOT

60 NOVEMBER 2017 FOODNEWSFEED.COM EVAN SUNG They’re food everywhere—from ipes and Provocations and ipes -ÌÕ«>Ž½Ã̜À̈>Ã>Ài“>`ivÀœ“ “«iœ˜ˆ˜“ˆ`̜ܘ >˜ >ÌÌ>˜] v>>viÜˆÌ }À>Ãà œ««iÀÌ> ˆ˜ˆ° vÀià Þ“ˆi` iˆÀœœ“VœÀ˜°ºč ÌÀ>“ˆÜˆÌ “ÕÃÌ>À`Ãii`Ã>Ã>œÀ Ì>VœÃ]>˜ÞÌ ˆ˜}}œiÃpˆŽi«>Ç Ì iܜÀ`Ì >Ì]Ü i˜ˆÌVœ“iÃ̜ ̜À̈>ˆÃ˜½Ì>L>VŽ}ÀœÕ˜`«>ÞiÀ]» Ü iÀiÌܜœV̜«ÕÃÌ>VœÃV>˜ÃiÌ ÌÀÕVŽÃ̜čiÝ-ÌÕ«>Ž½Ãw˜i‡`ˆ˜ˆ˜} 87. >VÕÃ̜“iÀL>VŽfÓä°"vVœÕÀÃi] FOODNEWSFEED iÜÀˆÌiðˆÃLœœŽ] TACOS ° " Tacos: Rec- ]à œÜi` BEST PRACTICES BEST NOVEMBER 2017 61 BEST PRACTICES

90. WAFFLES Sophisticated chefs such .CWPEJGFD[VJGWDKSWKVQWUEJKEMGPCPFYCHƃGVTGPF as Enrique Olvera at his YCHƃGUCTGPQYDGKPIWUGFCUECTTKGTUCPFUGTXKPI restaurants in Mexico RNCVHQTOUHQTQVJGTHQQFU9JGPUVWFFGFYKVJGXGT[ City and New York (Pujol, VJKPIHTQOEJKCUGGFUVQSWKPQCYCHƃGUECPCNUQRCEM Cosme, Atla); Alex Stu- CPWVTKVKQPCNRWPEJ#V5GCURKEGKP/KCOK'ZGEWVKXG pak of Empellon, New York %JGH#PIGN.GQPOCMGUJKU2QYGT9CHƃGUYKVJSWKPQC City; and pioneer Rick Bay- QCVUƃCZUGGFUJGORUGGFUCPFQCVUHQTCFQUGQH less of Frontera Grill and GPGTI[CPFETWPEJ Topolobampo in Chicago all are showcasing the authentic fl avors of Mexico. 88. OLIVES Chefs are going beyond 95. NIXTAMALIZATION green and kalamata The process, developed by olives to experiment with the ancient Mayans, is one NGUUGTMPQYPV[RGUCUƂP in which corn kernels are ishing touches for salads, soaked in an alkaline solu- ƂUJFKUJGUCPFOQTG#V tion, usually culinary lime, Temple Bar in Cambridge, in order to remove the Massachusetts, Chef hulls and unlock the nutri- Richmond Edes serves tional value. At authen- a whole-roasted bran- tic Mexican restaurants, zino with romesco sauce it’s then ground into masa and a couscous studded dough and rolled into tor- with red-hued Taggiasca tillas. Chef Sean Brock olives, which have a fruity, of Husk and Minero in UNKIJVN[PWVV[VCUVG(KI Charleston, South Caro- 1NKXGKP.QU#PIGNGU 91. ETHNIC BREAKFASTS lina, says the perfect torti- and Chicago has a Green Although Mexican breakfasts have been holding their own lla made with this process #RRNG5QTDGVURKMGFYKVJ for some time in the U.S., cuisines from other countries are “tastes like sunshine.” an olive oil made from a fi nally starting to break through. According to Menu Mat- blend of grassy and spicy ters’ Maeve Webster, “We are increasingly seeing fl avors, green arbequina and ingredients, and infl uences from cuisines such as Medi- manzanilla olives that are terranean, British/ Irish/Scottish, and German, as well as meant to balance out the some elements from Korean, Indian, the Caribbean, South UYGGVPGUUQHVJGFGUUGTV America, and Northern Europe.”

89. LEGUMES Summer and runner beans GLOBAL AND ETHNIC NUANCES. are becoming the “it” legumes. Branch Line in 92. ADOBO las. Quenelle de brochette Watertown, Massachusetts, This Filipino dish refers to sauce Américaine and sole does a ragout of sweet a style of braising meats, Véronique are reinvented at 96. CHIMICHURRI summer beans paired with vegetables, and seafood in Le Coucou. 6JKUKEQPKE#TIGPVKPG cheese grits, grilled green vinegar. Other ingredients sauce, made of parsley, garlic, and mustard jus as are up to the chef’s whims. 94. UPSCALE MEXICAN garlic, oil, and vinegar, the side for a rabbit por- Mole, cilantro, mescal, traditionally accompa- chetta. Other chefs are 93. CLASSIC FRENCH tequila, avocados, queso nies steak but also works reaching for locally grown French cuisine is making fresco, epazote, masa, hoja well with grilled chicken cannellini beans, crowder a comeback in restaurants santa, nopales, tacos, heir- QTƂUJ#V%JKECIQoU peas, and other shelling such as Le Coucou and loom corn, even escamo- El Che Bar, Chef John legumes as new sources of Majorelle in New York City, les (ants). Forget about Manion preps 22-quart protein, crunch, creami- and The French Room in Tex Mex, with its ground batches three to four

ness, and fl avor. the Adolphus Hotel in Dal- meat and yellow cheese. VKOGUCYGGM LABELED:ANYTHING THINKSTOCK NOT

62 NOVEMBER 2017 FOODNEWSFEED.COM BEST PRACTICES

Sioux Chef,” has been lead- nated shrimp, tostones, mojo ing this charge, focusing with citrus and garlic, and on indigenous foods from ropa vieja. his native Oglala Lakota, Dakota, and Ojibwe tribes 104. KOREAN BBQ in an approach to cook- Marinated beef quick- ing that’s naturally gluten- seared over hot grills is free, low-glycemic, sugar- finding its way onto menus free, lactose-free, and around the country. Chef Paleo-friendly. These foods Tatiana Rosana of Outlook include everything from Kitchen + Bar at The Envoy multi-colored corn and Hotel in Boston infuses her beans to rose hip berries native Cuban cooking with

NISANOVA PHOTOGRAPHY and sunchokes. elements of Korean BBQ, like gochugaru, a Korean 97. DÖNER 103. CUBAN dried chili flake spice and A popular Berlin street food, the döner kebab is making Chefs are more embold- a soy-sugar-ginger-garlic inroads in the U.S. A particularly delicious and health- ened than ever to show- sauce on homemade pork ful version of this sandwich, stuffed with spit-roasted case the foods of Cuba, like bao braised in a Cuban chicken and a slew of fresh vegetables, is drawing slow-roasted pork, spiced mojo marinade with citrus, crowds at Brooklyn’s Smorgasburg outdoor market. rice, black beans, mari- orange, garlic, and pepper.

98. SHAKUSHKA 100. MUHAMMARA This Israeli egg dish, baked Now thought of as Turk- in tomato/pepper sauce, ish, this roasted red pep- is showing up on menus per/walnut/pomegran- from New Orleans to ate molasses dip originally New York and is served for from Aleppo, Syria, enliv- breakfast, lunch, dinner, ens crudité presentations and brunch. Credit chefs with its bright crimson like Yotam Ottolenghi and color and nutty texture. Michael Solomonov for putting the cuisine of this 101. PERUVIAN tiny country the size of Quinoa has eaten the world New Jersey on the radar. and ceviche is no longer exotic. Aji amarillo, Pisco,

99. MOROCCAN toasted corn kernels, pur- AVOCADERIA Za’atar, preserved lem- ple potatoes, Peruvian ons, harissa, merguez sau- rotisserie chicken, and lomo 105. AVOCADO TOAST sage, and ras el hanout— saltado are easily found. From its birthplace in Australia, this appealing version once only found flavoring The Nobu empire stretches of bruschetta has laid claim to real estate on menus couscous and tagines— its fusion of Japanese and everywhere. There’s even a food-hall stall devoted are making their way into Peruvian cuisine world- to nothing but avocados. The Avocaderia is located the mainstream. Merguez wide. Can cuy (guinea pig) (where else?) in Brooklyn. stands side by side with be far behind? kielbasa and bratwurst 106. COLOMBIAN as a sausage choice at The 102. NATIVE AMERICAN Heavily based on grilled steaks and starchy sides like plan- Vanderbilt in Brooklyn, Indigenous foods are tak- tains and yucca, Colombian cuisine could become a globally and Moroccan spices flavor ing center stage as chefs inspired rendition for American meat-and-potatoes fare. Or the duck breast at Bâtard find uses for foods grow- perhaps it will be the classic Colombian bunuelo—a savory in New York City. Cous- ing right in their own back- fritter made with cheese, milk, fine masa, yucca, and tapi- cous itself is as ubiquitous yards. Chef Sean Sher- oca starch—that will make its way into the ongoing global as rice. man, also known as “The doughnut frenzy.

FOODNEWSFEED.COM NOVEMBER 2017 63 BEST PRACTICES

107. FILIPINO traction. South African peri- Nicole Ponseca, owner of peri sauce is showing up Maharlika restaurant and with North African harissa Jeepney Filipino Gastropub as a new condiment. Chef in New York City, show- Marcus Samuelsson contin- cases favorites like chicken ues to lead education about adobo, kare kare, lumpia Ethiopian cuisine, expand- egg rolls, lechon kawali (Fil- ing his use of the bebere ipino-style barbecue pork), spice blend (cinnamon, and other dishes from her cloves, cardamom, and chile parents’ native Philippines. de árbol) as a fi ery rub for poultry, fi sh, and vegetables. 109. STICK FIGURES From Japanese yakitori 111. ROBOTIC FOOD PREP and Peruvian anticuchos— DIAZ CARLY A variety of foodservice- skewers of marinated focused robots are mov- meats and seafood grilled 108. EASTERN EUROPEAN ing from the drawing board over live fi re—stick-based Ana Ros, now anointed as the world’s best female chef to the kitchen, from artifi - options off er an interactive of 2017, has put Slovenia’s cuisine on the map at her cially intelligent machines experience for guests. remote restaurant Hisa Franko. Budapest, Warsaw, with robotic arms to smart and Prague’s reinvigorated restaurant scenes are put- vending machines designed 110. OUT OF AFRICA VKPI'CUVGTP'WTQRGCPƃCXQTUQPVJGTCFCT6JKPMFKNN to prepare highly customiz- Cuisine from all parts of paprika, goulash, pierogis, roast duck, parsley dump- able burgers, salads, pizzas, Africa continues to gain lings, and dark beer. and other foods.

Baked Campanelle with Cream & Guajillo Glazed Shrimp

In this dish from JW Marriott Desert Springs Resort & Spa Chef Alejandro Placeres the rich, earthy heat of roasted and pepper jack cheese over Barilla® Campanelle pasta provides a satisfying stage for the star of the show, guajillo chile-glazed shrimp. Brilliant in color and bursting with sweet-spicy chile flavor, the shrimp bring a wow factor to this south-of-the-border take on mac and cheese.

Visit BarillaFS.com for the full recipe.

64 NOVEMBER 2017 FOODNEWSFEED.COM