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Bewegtes Kostüm

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Bewegtes Kostüm BEWEGTES KOSTÜM Phantastische Kleiderbelebung im Spielflm Diplomarbeit zur Erlangung des akademischen Grades Mag!art! " Mag!a art! #Magister artium " Magistra artium$ in den Studienrichtungen% Bildnerische Erziehung " Kunst und Kommunikati&e 'ra(is ) Textiles Gestalten " Textil * Kunst+ Design+ St,les eingereicht an der -ni&ersit.t /0r angewandte Kunst Wien am Institut /0r Kunst1issenschafen+ Kunstpädagogik und Kunst&ermittlung bei 'ri&!4Doz!+ Sen! Sc! Edith 5utscher &orgelegt &on Anna Bergmann 6678968: Wien+ im ;o&ember :6:6 Kurz/assung Die Arbeit untersucht einen speziellen narrati&en Modus phantastischer Kost0mbewegungen im Spiel=lm+ 0ber den die Kleider als belebte, agierende Wesen lesbar 1erden! Es geht um eine .u>er? lich &ollzogene Bewegung+ im Sinne einer spezi=schen Inszenierungsform des Kost0ms, die den Gedanken an eine Belebtheit des Objekts nahelegt! 2ndem @edoch /rag10rdig bleibt+ ob die 0berna? t0rlich anmutende Kleiderbewegung tatsächlich als 1underbar zu interpretieren ist oder ob sie blo> einer Sinnest.uschung+ Imagination oder .u>eren Krafein1irkung entspringt+ handeln die 5ilme immer auch &on Grenz0berschreitungen+ die die Überlegenheit des menschlichen Subjekts in/rage stellen! Die den &erselbstst.ndigten Gewandbewegungen und 0bernat0rlichen Dingbelebungen zugrunde gelegten /etischistischen+ animistischen+ phantastischen+ psychoanal,tischen 1ie kultur? 1issenscha3lichen Diskurse, 1elche die Art ihrer Darstellung entscheidend beeinfussen+ 1erden besprochen und mit =lm4 und modetheoretischen Konzepten &erschr.nkt! Dadurch ist es mBglich+ die unterschiedlichen Cepr.sentationsweisen der Kost0mbelebungen nachzu&ollziehen und die Derbindungslinien z1ischen den &ielgestaltigen Erscheinungsformen und Erz.hl1eisen der phan? tastisch bewegten Kost0me herauszuarbeiten! <bstract Ee 1ork in&estigates a special narrati&e mode o/ /antastic costume mo&ements in /eature =lms, through 1hich the clothes become readable as animated+ acting beings. It is about an out1ardl, exe? cuted mo&ement+ in the sense o/ a speci=c /orm o/ staging the costume, 1hich suggests the idea o/ a li&ing object! Ho1ever+ since it remains a m,ster, 1hether the supernatural4looking mo&ement o/ the costume can actuall, be interpreted as 1onder/ul or 1hether it merel, arises /rom a sensor, illu? sion+ imagination+ or external /orce, the =lms al1a,s deal 1ith transgressions that Guestion the so&ereignt, o/ the subject! Ee /etishistic+ animistic+ /antastical+ psychoanal,tical and cultural studies discourses underl,ing the independent mo&ements o/ garments and supernatural animations o/ things, 1hich decisi&el, inAuence the 1a, they are presented+ are discussed and inter1o&en 1ith =lm and /ashion theoretical concepts. Eis makes it possible to understand the diHerent 1a,s o/ representation o/ the costume animations and to 1ork out the connecting lines bet1een the mani? /old mani/estations and narrati&es o/ the /antasticall, mo&ed costumes. Danksagung Iuerst geb0hrt mein Dank 5rau 'ri&!4Doz!+ Sen! Sc! Edith 5utscher+ /0r ihre kritischen Anregungen und sorg/.ltigen Korrekturen! Ihr Engagement und ihre Ermutigungen haben mir dabei gehol/en+ meine eigenen 5orschungsinteressen zu &er/olgen und diese Arbeit rechtzeitig /ertigzustellen! Besonderer Dank gilt meinem 5reund Sebastian Ma,er+ der mich stets unterst0tzte und insbeson? dere bei der 5ormatierung des Textes &on unsch.tzbarer Hil/e 1ar! Schließlich bedanke ich mich bei meinen Eltern+ die mir mein Studium erst ermBglichten+ und mei? nen 5reundinnen Kathrin Kemp, Jenni/er Milleder+ Kornelia Lenardt und Lisa Sla1itz+ die mich in zahlreichen Gespr.chen moti&ierten und mir mit Interesse und Geduld zur Seite standen! 2;F<LTSDECIE2KF;2S M E2;LE2TUNG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! N : WISSENSKF<FTL2KFE UND TFEORET2SKFE IUGONGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!M6 :!M Gewandbewegungen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MM :!M!M Bewegte Moden!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!MM :!M!: Kleiderbewegung als Bildmoti& und im Kost0m!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!MN :!: 'hantastisch bewegtes 5ilmkost0m!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!P6 :!:!M Die Kost0manal,se in der 5ilmtheorie!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! P6 :!:!: 'athos, Spektakel+ ;arration% Sinn und Sinnlichkeit des 5ilmkost0ms!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!P: :!:!P 'hantastik und phantastisches Kost0m!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 9M :!P 5etischismus, Animismus, Anthropomorphismus!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!QP :!P!M Entstehungs- und Wirkungsgeschichte der BegriHe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!QP :!P!: Aktualit.t &on 5etischismus und Animismus!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!N9 P 'F<NT<ST2SKFE KOSTÜMBEWEGUNG 2M S'2EL52LM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NR P!M Geisterhafe Kleiderbewegung!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!N7 P!M!M Allgemeines !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!N7 P!M!: 'hantastische Aspekte!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!8: 3.1.2.1 DRACULA US 1!!2" R: $rancis $%rd C%pp%la" dt. &itel: 'ram Sto(er's Dracula) ...+2 3.1.2.2 &,- C-LL US 2..." R: &arsem Singh) ........................................................................ +/ 3.1.2.3 0-LA1CHOLIA US 2.11" R: Lars 4%n &rier)............................................................. /2 P!: MonstrBse Kleiderbewegung!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! R7 P!:!M Allgemeines!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!R7 P!:!: 'hantastische Aspekte!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!7: 3.2.2.1 'A&0A1 '-531S US6UK 2..7" R: Christopher 1%lan)............................................!2 3.2.2.2 A 53RL WALKS ,20- ALON- A& 135,& US 2.19" R: Ana Lily Amirp%ur)......!+ P!P Autonome Kleiderbewegung!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!M6P P!P!M Allgemeines!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! M6P P!P!: 'hantastische Aspekte!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! M69 3.3.2.1 LE5-1D US 1!/7" R: Ridley Scott)............................................................................. 1.9 3.3.2.2 31 $A'RIC UK 2.1/" R: Peter Strickland)..................................................................1.; 9 CSSUMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MMP Q <;F<NG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!MMN Q!M Abbildungen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!MM8 Q!: Bildnach1eise!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!MPP Q!P Literatur!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!MPN Q!9 InternetGuellen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!M9N Q!9!M 'apers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! M9N Q!9!: Artikel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!M98 Q!Q 5ilme !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! M97 1 EINLEIT-;G N Dor einem sch1arzen Hintergrund 1eht ein rotes StoHst0ck! Seine seidene OberA.che leuchtet im k0nstlichen Lichtschein glanz&oll au/ und in der schnell Aießenden Bewegtheit erinnert es &ielmehr an 5lammen4 oder Wellen/ormationen als an ein Textil! Schnell huschen ein Ärmel und ein Hals? ausschnitt &orbei und es 1ird ersichtlich+ dass es sich bei dem 1allenden StoH um ein Kleidungs? st0ck handelt! In einer anderen Einstellung sch1ebt das Kleid in unheimlicher Manier+ unauTBrlich rot leuchtend 0ber einem Bett+ in dem z1ei oHensichtlich ahnungslose Menschen schla/en! Die Szenen entstammen dem 5ilm 3n $abric #-K :6MR$ &on 'eter Strickland und das &erlebendigte Kleid pr.sentiert sich darin als bedrohliches Ding+ das
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