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Étoile Filante IV 5.11C, 300M, South Face of Asgard Peak, Valhallas

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Étoile Filante IV 5.11C, 300M, South Face of Asgard Peak, Valhallas Étoile Filante IV 5.11c, 300m, South face of Asgard peak, Valhallas Access Asgard Peak is located in Valhalla Provincial Park in Southeastern British Columbia. It is roughly 15km West of Slocan Lake near the headwaters of Mulvey Creek. To access the South Face of Asgard, climbers must start by following the regular access trail to the well known Gimli Peak from the Bannock Creek forest service road. From the regular campsite at the base of the South Ridge of Gimli, follow a trail along the west face of Gimli to a col between Gimli and Nisleheim peak (750m elevation gain over 5km). The South Face of Asgard can be seen directly across Mulvey basin from the col. The best camping location for this route is about 300 vertical meters below the north side of Gimli col near one of the upper Mulvey lakes. To get into Mulvey Basin from the col, start by locating an exposed but very handy left trending diagonal ledge on the steep north side of the col which begins near the middle of the broad col (cairn). Carefully scramble down the initial moves then traverse more easily West to the top of a steep snow/ice slope. Descend this slope; depending on the conditions crampons and ice axe can be very useful. Continue descending into Mulvey basin on snow (early season) or rock slabs (late season). Many beautiful alpine meadow for camping with good water options exist near the upper Mulvey Lakes (300m elevation loss over 1km). To access the South Face from Mulvey Lakes, ascend moderately steep slopes up and left of some rock slabs in a Westerly direction and eventually gentle slopes in a Northwesterly direction (300m elevation gain over 1.5 km). Route Description The route starts about 15m right of the 1st pitch on the original "Center Route". It begins near the base of a left slanting crack/ramp about two thirds of the way right across the South Face. P1. Scramble up to a small overhang providing access to a left trending ramp/crack system. Climb this, passing 1 bolt and 1 fix piton, to the base a large "V" shaped slot and a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9, 45m P2. Climb the vertical arête defining the right edge of the "V" slot (crux) to a featured slab and easier ground passing 4 bolts to a 2 bolt belay in and open dish. 5.10d, 25m P3 . Climb up and trend right, passing a fix piton and a few loose block, towards and obvious left facing corner about 30m from the belay. Climb the corner (5.10a) and continue up and right along a ramp system to where it is possible to easily climb back left to a good ledge with a 2 bolt belay. A wandering pitch with possible rope drag. 5.10a, 55m P4 . Climb the right-hand crack above the belay for a few meters then step left across a ledge a few meters. Climb a vertical crack leading to a long left leaning corner caped by a roof. Climb this beautiful corner to a small sloping stance about 30m from the top of pitch 3 and belay on good gear. 5.9, 30m P5 . Continue along the steepening corner toward the roof passing an insecure lay-back section (5.11a). Look for a few key camalot #1 and #2 placements in odd triangular crack pockets on the right wall just before the crux lay-back. Continue more easily towards the intimidating roof. Climb the left side of the roof then traverses back right wildly along an exposed sloping ledge to a 2 bolt belay. 5.11a, 25m. Note: it is possible to combined P4 and P5 but the rope drag and gear management can be limiting factors. P6 . Climb up and left via a thin lay-back seam past 2 bolts. Continue up and right over a steep flake passing one fix piton. Beware of a precarious looking flake above the piton, it is avoidable. Continue up and right via an steepening arch passing 2 more bolts (5.11b). After the arch climb up and back left passing another bolt then skirt around the left side of an overhang, passing some wild chicken heads, to a small stance with a 2 bolt belay. 5.11b, 30m P7 . A few exposed slabby moves to the right past one bolt lead to a thin arching crack caped by a small roof. Exciting the roof through the left side on good gear provides the crux of the whole route (5.11c). Continue straight up with some insecure lay-backing along a left facing corner. The angle of the wall eventually ease and a right facing corner provide access to the east ridge and a two bolts belay. 5.11c, 30m From the top of P7 scramble up in a Westerly direction along the East ridge to the summit, 3rd class, 60m Gear required 1 set of cams from #0 Metolius to #3 Camalot, a second set of cam from #1 Metolius to #2 Camalot, 1 set of nuts, 2 X 60m ropes Descent The route can be descended in 4 long rappels, see topo. It is also possible to descend via the regular East slope descent (3rd class). .
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