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MAIOLO TRAD CLIMBING Di Samuele Mazzolini - Dicembre 2013 - Rev V

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MAIOLO TRAD CLIMBING Di Samuele Mazzolini - Dicembre 2013 - Rev V MAIOLO TRAD CLIMBING di Samuele Mazzolini - Dicembre 2013 - Rev V “Gimme danger” Settore alto Placche alte “Stairway to heaven” “C'era una volta...” “La sveltina” “Passerina crack” Le arrampicate di seguito descritte sono per la maggior parte non attrezzate, ossia in etica “tradizionale”. Le vie non liberate sono tutte “open-project”, ossia possono ovviamente essere provate da chiunque. Sarei però grato se chi riesce nella prima salita potesse comunque comunicarmi il grado proposto e le protezioni utilizzate, in modo da poter aggiornare questa piccola guida. In mezzo ai tiri in ottica tradizionale ve ne sono altri sportivi, su zone di parete non proteggibili con friend, nut, tricam o altro materiale rimovibile. Anche questi sono “open-project”. Ogni itinerario trad è dotato di un ancoraggio di calata e può essere comunque salito top-rope e provato in moulinette. Le catene del settore alto, di “Passerina crack”, di “C'era una volta in Romagna”, e delle Placche alte, sono raggiungibili utilizzando delle corde lasciate ancorate sugli alberi (controllare sempre lo stato delle corde!). Per ogni itinerario è presente una indicazione relativa al tipo di scalata, una indicazione sulle protezioni utilizzabili e una indicazione sulla difficoltà in scala inglese (tecnica e componente rischio) e in arrampicata sportiva (tra parentesi). Un eventuale piccolo cuore con le ali indica poi che la via è particolarmente pericolosa in caso di caduta, la quale può anche avere gravi conseguenze. Tutti gli itinerari hanno scritto il nome su di un sasso incollato con resina alla partenza. ! PORTARE UNA SPAZZOLA PER RIPULIRE DA EVENTUALE MUSCHIO O CROSTE. ACCESSO: dal casello Rimini sud prendere la s.s. 258 seguendo per Verucchio e quindi Novafeltria. Giunti a Secchiano svoltare a sinistra prima di una curva a destra, seguendo l’indicazione di colore giallo “Locanda San Leone”, attraversare il ponte sul fiume Marecchia e tenere la destra fino al bivio dove si prosegue seguendo l’indicazione Boscara. Dopo circa 3 km di saliscendi collinari, superate le indicazioni di Ca' Lorenzini e Ca' di Sirio, si giunge ad un gruppo di case denominate “Il Poggio” (spiazzo con fontana) dove si parcheggia. Un panoramico sentiero su di una cresta di argilla conduce alla falesia (ben visibile sotto i resti della rocca) in circa 25 minuti. E' anche possibile accedere alla falesia da Novafeltria. Giunti a Novafeltria, proseguire in direzione Pennabilli e dopo l'ultimo semaforo (in corrispondenza di una chiesa sulla sinistra), prendere la prima strada a sinistra, oltrepassare la caserma dei Carabinieri e della Polizia, attraversare il fiume Marecchia e salire per circa un Km fino ad un gruppo di case con mattoni a vista. Prendere una strada sterrata sulla sinistra e proseguire fino ad una Madonnina, dove è possibile parcheggiare un paio di macchine. Continuare lungo la sterrata, prima in discesa e poi in salita fin sotto la falesia (20 minuti circa). Se si ha a disposizione un fuoristrada è possibile arrivare sotto la falesia. PERIODO CONSIGLIATO: inverno, autunno inoltrato, prima primavera; troppo caldo in estate. ESPOSIZIONE: sud. ♫♪♫ Un Grazie particolare a Luigi Dattilo, Giuseppe Babbi, Marcello Cosentino, Francesco Sorci, che hanno contribuito alla pulizia degli itinerari, alla sistemazione degli ancoraggi di calata e spesso alla realizzazione delle salite dal basso. !!! : l'arrampicata in stile trad, non potendo contare su protezioni sicure al 100%, presenta rischi ovviamente maggiori rispetto all'arrampicata sportiva. Richiede pertanto grande esperienza nel posizionamento di friends, nuts, ecc. e necessità di autocontrollo e tranquillità durante la scalata dal basso, onde evitare cadute pericolose. !!! : controllare sempre lo stato delle corde per accedere alle soste di calata. Per qualsiasi informazione: e-mail: [email protected] sito web: www.samuelemazzolini.altervista.org cell. 3489363193 Buone scalate, Samuele. SETTORE BASSO (CHIESA) 1 “Passerina crack” 20m Caratteristiche: bella fessura, non difficile, dai passaggi allo stesso tempo atletici e tecnici. Difficoltà: 6a E3 (6b/c F). Materiale: alien VERDE, camalot VIOLA, camalot VERDE, camalot ROSSO. 2 “C'era una volta in Romagna” 20m Caratteristiche: bellissima arrampicata in fessura ad incastro dai movimenti di non facile intuizione; run-out alla catena, non difficile ma delicato. Difficoltà: 6b E6 (7b+ F). Materiale: n°1 camalot GIALLO, n°1 camalot ROSSO, alien ROSSO, n°2 alien VERDE. 2 1 3 “La sveltina” 15m Caratteristiche: scalata molto varia che, dopo una bella lama nella prima parte, offre una delicata arrampicata in aderenza per raggiungere la catena (lungo run-out con caduta pericolosa); la via percorre il settore di parete compreso fra due vie sportive bricolate. Difficoltà: 5c E4 (6b+ F). Materiale: n°1 camalot GIALLO, n°1 camalot ROSSO, n°1 camalot VERDE. 3 4 “Stairway to heaven” 12m - presente un solo fix di calata Caratteristiche: boulder in strapiombo con bellissimi movimenti; da non perdere. Difficoltà: 6a E4 (6c/7a F). Materiale: camalot GRIGIO (3.5), n°2 camalot ROSSO. 5 “Spigolo senza sosta” 8m – nessun fix di calata Caratteristiche: facile spigolo tecnico, proteggibile con un camalot in un grosso buco a circa ¾ di altezza; molto bello. Difficoltà: 5a E1 (5c F). Materiale: camalot BLU (3.5). 4 5 SETTORE ALTO Di seguito è riportata la panoramica della parete. 6 “Takk fyrir” 12m Caratteristiche: placca verticale tecnica con protezione molto precarie che possono tenere un resting; caduta molto pericolosa a causa di una fuoriuscita anche di una sola delle protezioni. Difficoltà: 6c E7 (7b F) (salita solo TOP-ROPE). Materiale: n°1 camalot ROSSO, n°1 alien GIALLO, n°1 tricam BLU. 7 “Crotalus” 12m Caratteristiche: duro boulder in partenza per arrivare ad una lama rovescia, altro singolo difficile per arrivare ad un buco e poi esile fessurina. Possibilità di protezione precaria. Difficoltà: ? (PROVATO ma NON LIBERATO, neanche TOP-ROPE). Materiale: ?. 8 “Trad-imento” 12m Caratteristiche: bellissima placca boulderosa. Difficoltà: 8? (NON LIBERATO). 9 “I Quattro Accordi” 15m Caratteristiche: PROGETTO VIA SPORTIVA - PRESENTE SOLO LA SOSTA DI CALATA. Difficoltà: 8?. 9 9 7 8 6 10 “Pelo pubblico” 12m Caratteristiche: bellissima fessura con un singolo in partenza. Difficoltà: 6a E3 (6b+ F). Materiale: camalot GIALLO, alien GIALLO e ROSSO accoppiati, alien GRIGIO; varie comunque le possibilità di protezione. 11 “Geronimo” 15m Caratteristiche: partenza in comune con “Pelo pubblico” poi traverso delicato a destra, incrociando “Revolver”. Difficoltà: 6b E5 (7a F) (salita solo TOP-ROPE) Materiale: ?. 12 “Revolver” 12m Caratteristiche: difficile e aleatorio boulder in partenza con caduta pericolosa su massi; poi movimento dinamico spettacolare. Difficoltà: 6c E7 (7b+ F) (salita solo TOP-ROPE). Materiale: ?. 13 “Per un pugno di sabbia” 10m Caratteristiche: PROGETTO VIA SPORTIVA - PRESENTE SOLO LA SOSTA DI CALATA. Difficoltà: 7?. 10 13 11 12 14 “Il pedalone ” 12m Caratteristiche: facile diedro con bella arrampicata tecnica; buone le protezioni. Difficoltà: 5a E1 (5b F). Materiale: alien VERDE, camalot ROSSO, camalot GIALLO. 15 “Il moscone” 10m Caratteristiche: partenza in comune con “Il pedalone” poi dritto per la placca con movimenti spettacolari. Difficoltà: 6a E4 (6c/7a F). Materiale: alien VERDE, camalot ROSSO, camalot GIALLO; eventuale dado medio in buco a SX. 16 “Penelopes” 10m Caratteristiche: bellissima arrampicata su di un estetico spigolo con un delicato passo prima dell'uscita. Nessuna possibilità di assicurazione. Difficoltà: 6a E5 (6b+ F). Materiale: non proteggibile. 17 “Didiedro” 10m Caratteristiche: facilissimo diedro appoggiato. Difficoltà: 4a VS (4c F). Materiale: camalot GIALLO, camalot VERDE. 18 “Getulio” 12m Caratteristiche: bella fessura in dulfer ben proteggibile; purtroppo si sporca un po' se non la si percorre da diverso tempo. Difficoltà: 5c E2 (6a+ F). Materiale: camalot VIOLA, camalot VERDE, camalot ROSSO, cordino. 19 “Little England” 10m - presente un solo fix di calata Caratteristiche: roccia articolata poi esile fessurina in uscita. Difficoltà: NON PROVATO - DA RIPULIRE Materiale: ?. 20 “Sheffield in my mind” 15m - presente un solo fix di calata Caratteristiche: logica fessura che permette di vincere il tratto di parete su minori difficoltà. Difficoltà: NON PROVATO - DA RIPULIRE Materiale: ?. 20 19 15 18 16 17 14 21 “Gimme danger” 15m Caratteristiche: bellissima fessura ad incastro; ottime le protezioni. Difficoltà: NON LIBERATO - DA RIPULIRE. Materiale: ?. 21 PLACCHE ALTE 22 “La sgommata” 10m Caratteristiche: placca adagiata con passo iniziale d'aderenza e possibile caduta a terra. Difficoltà: 5b E3 (6a F). Materiale: alien GRIGIO (o GIALLO), alien VERDE. 23 “Pensare con i piedi” 10m Caratteristiche: bella e non difficile placca d'aderenza. Difficoltà: 5a E1 (5b F). Materiale: camalot BLU, alien VERDE. 24 “Lo spigolo” 10m Caratteristiche: facile spigolo di movimento. Difficoltà: 4b HVS (5a F). Materiale: camalot BLU, camalot ROSSO, alien GIALLO. 24 23 22 TABELLA GRADI INGLESI BOLD: pericoloso. SAFE: sicuro. Come si nota, il grado tecnico aumenta per avere un grado E elevato, proporzionalmente alla sicurezza delle protezioni. Se per esempio un 7c pericoloso basta per avere un grado E9, per avere lo stesso grado con protezioni sicure è necessario un grado tecnico di 8b..
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