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Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an -
Vocabulaire D'escalade Climbing Terms
VOCABULAIRE D'ESCALADE CLIMBING TERMS A - Assurer : To belay Assurer un grimpeur en tête ou en moulinette (To secure a climber) - Assureur : Belayer Personne qui assure un grimpeur (The person securing the climber) - "Avale" / "Sec"/ "Bloque" : "Tight rope" / "Take" Le premier de cordée (ou le second) demande à l'assureur de prendre le mou de la corde (Yelled by the leader or the follower when she/he wants a tighter belay) B - Bac / Baquet : Bucket, Jug Très bonne prise (A large hold) - Baudrier / Baudard : Harness Harnais d'escalade - Bloc : Bouldering, to boulder Escalade de blocs, faire du bloc (Climbing unroped on boulders in Fontainebleau for exemple) C - Casque : Helmet Protection de la tête contre les chutes de pierres... (Protect the head from falling stones...) - Chaussons d'escalade : Climbing shoes Chaussons ou ballerines pourvus d'une gomme très adhérente (Shoes made of sticky rubber) - Corde : Rope - Cotation : Grade Degré de difficulté d'une voie, d'un bloc... (Technical difficulty of the routes, boulders...) - Crux : Crux Le passage délicat dans une voie, le pas de la voie (The hard bit) D - Dalle : Slab Voie ou bloc généralement plat où l'on grimpe en adhérence ou sur grattons (Flat and seemingly featureless, not quite vertical piece of rock) - Daubé / Avoir les bouteilles : Pumped Avoir les avants-bras explosés, ne plus rien sentir... (The felling of overworked muscles) - Dégaine : Quickdraw, quick Deux mousquetons reliés par une sangle (Short sling with karabiners on either side) - Descendeur :Descender Appareil utilisé -
2020 January Scree
the SCREE Mountaineering Club of Alaska January 2020 Volume 63, Number 1 Contents Mount Anno Domini Peak 2330 and Far Out Peak Devils Paw North Taku Tower Randoism via Rosie’s Roost "The greatest danger for Berlin Wall most of us is not that our aim is too high and we Katmai and the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes miss it, but that it is too Peak of the Month: Old Snowy low and we reach it." – Michelangelo JANUARY MEETING: Wednesday, January 8, at 6:30 p.m. Luc Mehl will give the presentation. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska www.mtnclubak.org "To maintain, promote, and perpetuate the association of persons who are interested in promoting, sponsoring, im- proving, stimulating, and contributing to the exercise of skill and safety in the Art and Science of Mountaineering." This issue brought to you by: Editor—Steve Gruhn assisted by Dawn Munroe Hut Needs and Notes Cover Photo If you are headed to one of the MCA huts, please consult the Hut Gabe Hayden high on Devils Paw. Inventory and Needs on the website (http://www.mtnclubak.org/ Photo by Brette Harrington index.cfm/Huts/Hut-Inventory-and-Needs) or Greg Bragiel, MCA Huts Committee Chairman, at either [email protected] or (907) 350-5146 to see what needs to be taken to the huts or repaired. All JANUARY MEETING huts have tools and materials so that anyone can make basic re- Wednesday, January 8, at 6:30 p.m. at the BP Energy Center at pairs. Hutmeisters are needed for each hut: If you have a favorite 1014 Energy Court in Anchorage. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable. -
Sport Retail Price List Fall 2008 Petzl America
Sport Retail Price List Fall 2008 Petzl America Freeport Center M-7 / PO Box 160447 Clearfield, UT 84016 U.S.A. telephone (801) 926-1500 / fax (801) 926-1501 e-mail: [email protected] Sport Retail Pricelist northHeader american distribution Sport Retail Price List Effective July 1 - December 31, 2008 Prices are subject to change without notice Ref # Description Retail (US$) Rope - Dynamic - DURATEC DRY RD8260 _1 DRAGONFLY half rope 8.2mm x 60m Green or Orange 169.95 RD8270 -1 DRAGONFLY half rope 8.2mm x 70m Green or Orange 199.95 RD9460 _1 FUSE rope 9.4mm x 60m, Green or Blue 209.95 RD9470 _1 FUSE rope 9.4mm x 70m, Green or Blue 239.95 RD9860 _1 NOMAD rope 9.8mm x 60m, Green or Red 209.95 RD9870 _1 NOMAD rope 9.8mm x 70m, Green or Red 239.95 RD10350 _1 ZEPHYR rope 10.3mm x 50m, Red or Blue 179.95 RD10360 _1 ZEPHYR rope 10.3mm x 60m, Red or Blue 209.95 RD10370 _1 ZEPHYR rope 10.3mm x 70m, Red or Blue 249.95 RD107200_1 DOJO rope 10.7mm x 200m, Red or Blue 649.95 Rope - Vector Static R1146 W VECTOR rope 11mm x 46m (150 ft), White 130.00 R1146 _ VECTOR rope 11mm x 46m (150 ft), N=Black, B=Blue, R=Red 150.00 R1161 W VECTOR rope 11mm x 61m (200 ft), White 175.00 R1161 _ VECTOR rope 11mm x 61m (200 ft), N=Black, B=Blue, R=Red 200.00 R11183 W VECTOR rope 11mm x 183m (600 ft), White 520.00 R11183 _ VECTOR rope 11mm x 183m (600 ft), N=Black, B=Blue, R=Red 600.00 Rope - Accessories & Protection RC2 ROPE CUTTER II electric knife 159.95 R40 _ STANDARD ROPE BAG B=Blue, O=Orange, Y=Yellow, R=Red, N=Black 32.95 R41 _ ROPE BUCKET B=Blue, O=Orange, -
Ordinary Meeting Held on 23/11/2020
Queensland Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Queensland Climbing Community 1 Acknowledgement We proudly acknowledge Queensland’s First Nations peoples and their ongoing strength in practising one of the world’s oldest living cultures. We acknowledge the Traditional Owners of the lands and waters on which we live, work, recreate, and pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future. We recognise that there are long-lasting, far-reaching and intergenerational consequences of colonisation, dispossession and separation from Country. We acknowledge that the impact and structures of colonisation still exist today, and that all peoples have a responsibility to transform its systems and services so that Aboriginal Queenslanders can be the ones to hold decision-making power over the matters that affect their lives. We also acknowledge that Aboriginal self-determination is a human right enshrined in the United Nations Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples, and recognise the hard work of many generations of Aboriginal people who have fought for this right to be upheld. This document is intended to act as a guide for the Queensland Public Service, Volunteer organisations, and for personal action, to enable Aboriginal self-determination and provide possible solutions to ensure protection of valuable Cultural Heritage and the Environment for the future of all. QUEENSLAND CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 NOVEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Queensland Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Queensland climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. -
Sauratown Mountain
Sauratown Mountain Cover photos: Daniel Chambo on Shock the Monkey and Anna Chapman on Barbs World/Leisure Time. Photo credits, Jeff Dunbar on Shock the Monkey and Emil Briggs on Barbs World. The Carolina Climbers Coalition has reached an agreement with the owners of Sauratown, previously one of the most popular winter destinations in the NC Piedmont. Home to a number of classic trad lines and many excellent sport routes, the area has been closed for years due to a variety of factors. If you've never climbed at Sauratown it's the best winter cragging in the Piedmont - steep and pumpy on incredible rock. If you used to climb there and haven't for the 5+ years it's been closed, welcome back it's just like your forearms remember it! IMPORTANT! Access will ONLY be allowed from December 1 to March 31st and is 7 days a week. Please do not jeopardize all of the hard work that has gone into this by trying to go to Sauratown at any other time. The cliff remains closed except for those times. Don't be the person who gets the gate slammed in our face. Seriously, don't. Many thanks to Camp Hanes, who has partnered with us on this and to the climbers who humped stainless steel up the trail and replaced 30+ bolts and anchors, flagged trail and cleaned up the base of the cliff. We wouldn't be having as much fun as we're going to have without your help. There is a fee associated with this agreement that the CCC is paying to get everyone access to the property. -
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1. -
Alpine up - Guide Mode Belaying the Seconds
PRACTICAL EXPLANATIONS B - MULTI-PITCH ROUTES B5.3 - ALPINE UP - GUIDE MODE BELAYING THE SECONDS The diagram to the right shows the use of A is belayed to the central point of the stance the Alpine Up in Guide mode to belay two and takes in the rope to B and C, maintaining seconds: a slight tension in the rope to avoid giving loops B and C are each tied to the end of one of the of slack. With the Alpine Up he can belay two half ropes and as they climb they remove the seconds at the same time and each second is in- EXPLANATIONS PRACTICAL quickdraws placed by A. dependent of the other. A STOP! 1 2 OK! A - SINGLE-PITCH SPORT CLIMBING SPORT A - SINGLE-PITCH 1 2 3 Installation. into the hole marked of the Alpine Up, so that the Make a loop of the two ropes and insert it into ropes are below it, correctly inserted into the Al- ROUTES B - MULTI-PITCH the Alpine Up, following the symbols on the de- pine Up (Fig. 2). B vice. Insert a pear-shaped HMS krab through the Functional check. hole marked,at right angles to the lever, with the Pull the climber’s ropes downwards, to confirm rope inside (Fig. 1). Clip a Concept SGL screw- the system locks correctly (Fig. 3). gate krab into the central point of the stance and A C - CLIMBING A VIA FERRATA C 4 5 6 TECHNICAL FEATURES Belaying 1 or 2 seconds. perpendicular to the Alpine Up. Hold the free Use both hands to take in progressively the rope ends of the ropes tightly in one hand and with through the Alpine Up (Fig. -
Étoile Filante IV 5.11C, 300M, South Face of Asgard Peak, Valhallas
Étoile Filante IV 5.11c, 300m, South face of Asgard peak, Valhallas Access Asgard Peak is located in Valhalla Provincial Park in Southeastern British Columbia. It is roughly 15km West of Slocan Lake near the headwaters of Mulvey Creek. To access the South Face of Asgard, climbers must start by following the regular access trail to the well known Gimli Peak from the Bannock Creek forest service road. From the regular campsite at the base of the South Ridge of Gimli, follow a trail along the west face of Gimli to a col between Gimli and Nisleheim peak (750m elevation gain over 5km). The South Face of Asgard can be seen directly across Mulvey basin from the col. The best camping location for this route is about 300 vertical meters below the north side of Gimli col near one of the upper Mulvey lakes. To get into Mulvey Basin from the col, start by locating an exposed but very handy left trending diagonal ledge on the steep north side of the col which begins near the middle of the broad col (cairn). Carefully scramble down the initial moves then traverse more easily West to the top of a steep snow/ice slope. Descend this slope; depending on the conditions crampons and ice axe can be very useful. Continue descending into Mulvey basin on snow (early season) or rock slabs (late season). Many beautiful alpine meadow for camping with good water options exist near the upper Mulvey Lakes (300m elevation loss over 1km). To access the South Face from Mulvey Lakes, ascend moderately steep slopes up and left of some rock slabs in a Westerly direction and eventually gentle slopes in a Northwesterly direction (300m elevation gain over 1.5 km). -
Yellow Spur Rope Failure Investigation by Rocky Mountain Rescue Group
Yellow Spur Rope Failure Investigation by Rocky Mountain Rescue Group March 6, 2011 On the morning of June 22, 2010, Joseph Miller fell while leading the second pitch of the Yellow Spur1 route on the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park2. During the fall the climber’s rope failed, resulting in a fatal ground fall. Due to the unusual occurrence of a climbing rope failure, the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group3 (RMRG) conducted an accident investigation focused on the cause of the failure. This report contains the activities, findings and conclusions of that investigation. The intent of this report is to objectively determine what most likely happened during the accident. RMRG has no special relationship with any of the individuals or equipment manufacturers mentioned herein nor did RMRG receive any compensation for conducting this investigation. We encourage others to replicate our testing of this or similar scenarios. Figure 1a shows a photo of the Yellow Spur route with the area of the accident outlined in yellow. The second pitch of the route starts from a tree and traverses to climber’s left before heading up a dihedral (Figure 1b). The route was closed temporarily following the accident in order to gather on-site information in support of the initial investigation conducted by the Boulder County Sheriff’s Office (BCSO). Prior to re-opening the route, a detailed inspection of the second pitch of the route was performed by RMRG, and photographs were taken of the climbing protection placed by Miller during the climb. Interviews Interviews with a number of nearby climbers who witnessed the events leading to the fall and/or the fall itself were conducted by RMRG. -
081D 12/04 • Courses and Events • National Representation
Climbing Outside Contents 1 Risks . 2 2 Clubs . 3 3 Young Climbers . 3 4 The Environment . 4 5 History and Ethics . 6 6 Grades . 7 7 Bouldering . 9 8 Leading Indoors . 11 9 Sport Climbing . 11 10 Traditional Climbing . 12 11 Abseiling . 25 Cover photo: Clipping a camming device, Stanage Photo – Alex Messenger • Working for climbers, Acknowledgements hill walkers and Produced by Jon Garside BMC/MLTE Training Officer with support from members of the Training mountaineers Advisory Group. Funded by Sport England A number of people were very generous in • Keeping crags open contributing to this booklet: British Mountain Guide • Travel and Steve Long gave us free access to the text in his First Moves series, the Bouldering section was liability insurance adapted from Simon Panton’s North Wales Bouldering guide (Northern Soul, 2004), and • Competitions, safety Barbara Jones contributed to the conservation and training issues in that section. A number of diagrams • Discounts on gear, have been taken from MLTUK’s book Rock magazines and travel Climbing – Essential Skills & Techniques • Worldwide by British Mountain ‘information service’ Guide Libby Peter. To purchase a copy now please contact Join today the BMC on www.thebmc.co.uk 0870 010 4878. Many wall users wanting to climb on real rock would like to develop their inside to outside existing skills. If that sounds like you, then read on! Britain is often referred to as the home Remote adventurous climbing, Scafell of adventure climbing, and renowned Photo – Jon Garside for the incredible variety of rock types available on such a small island. Our cliffs may not be the tallest, but they present many new challenges not experienced indoors, forcing the climber to adopt very different climbing styles.