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Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land Page 9
VERTICAL TIMESSection The National Publication of the Access Fund Winter 09/Volume 86 www.accessfund.org Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land page 9 CHOOSING YOUR COnseRvatION STRateGY 6 THE NOTORIOUS HORsetOOTH HanG 7 Winter 09 Vertical Times 1 QUeen CReeK/OaK Flat: NEGOTIATIONS COntINUE 12 AF Perspective “ All the beautiful sentiments in the world weigh less than a single lovely action.” — James Russell Lowell irst of all, I want to take a moment to thank you for all you’ve done to support us. Without members and donors like you, we would fall short F of accomplishing our goals. I recently came across some interesting statistics in the Outdoor Foundation’s annual Outdoor Recreation Participation Report. In 2008, 4.7 million people in the United States participated in bouldering, sport climbing, or indoor climbing, and 2.3 million people went trad climbing, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It is also interesting to note that less than 1% of these climbers are members of the Access Fund. And the majority of our support comes from membership. We are working on climbing issues all across the country, from California to Maine. While we have had many successes and our reach is broad, just imagine what would be possible if we were able to increase our membership base: more grants, more direct support of local climbing organizations, and, ultimately, more climbing areas open and protected. We could use your help. Chances are a number of your climbing friends and partners aren’t current Access Fund members. Please take a moment to tell them about our work and the impor- tance of joining us, not to mention benefits like discounts on gear, grants for local projects, timely information and alerts about local access issues, and a subscrip- tion to the Vertical Times. -
Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an -
Vocabulaire D'escalade Climbing Terms
VOCABULAIRE D'ESCALADE CLIMBING TERMS A - Assurer : To belay Assurer un grimpeur en tête ou en moulinette (To secure a climber) - Assureur : Belayer Personne qui assure un grimpeur (The person securing the climber) - "Avale" / "Sec"/ "Bloque" : "Tight rope" / "Take" Le premier de cordée (ou le second) demande à l'assureur de prendre le mou de la corde (Yelled by the leader or the follower when she/he wants a tighter belay) B - Bac / Baquet : Bucket, Jug Très bonne prise (A large hold) - Baudrier / Baudard : Harness Harnais d'escalade - Bloc : Bouldering, to boulder Escalade de blocs, faire du bloc (Climbing unroped on boulders in Fontainebleau for exemple) C - Casque : Helmet Protection de la tête contre les chutes de pierres... (Protect the head from falling stones...) - Chaussons d'escalade : Climbing shoes Chaussons ou ballerines pourvus d'une gomme très adhérente (Shoes made of sticky rubber) - Corde : Rope - Cotation : Grade Degré de difficulté d'une voie, d'un bloc... (Technical difficulty of the routes, boulders...) - Crux : Crux Le passage délicat dans une voie, le pas de la voie (The hard bit) D - Dalle : Slab Voie ou bloc généralement plat où l'on grimpe en adhérence ou sur grattons (Flat and seemingly featureless, not quite vertical piece of rock) - Daubé / Avoir les bouteilles : Pumped Avoir les avants-bras explosés, ne plus rien sentir... (The felling of overworked muscles) - Dégaine : Quickdraw, quick Deux mousquetons reliés par une sangle (Short sling with karabiners on either side) - Descendeur :Descender Appareil utilisé -
2020 January Scree
the SCREE Mountaineering Club of Alaska January 2020 Volume 63, Number 1 Contents Mount Anno Domini Peak 2330 and Far Out Peak Devils Paw North Taku Tower Randoism via Rosie’s Roost "The greatest danger for Berlin Wall most of us is not that our aim is too high and we Katmai and the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes miss it, but that it is too Peak of the Month: Old Snowy low and we reach it." – Michelangelo JANUARY MEETING: Wednesday, January 8, at 6:30 p.m. Luc Mehl will give the presentation. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska www.mtnclubak.org "To maintain, promote, and perpetuate the association of persons who are interested in promoting, sponsoring, im- proving, stimulating, and contributing to the exercise of skill and safety in the Art and Science of Mountaineering." This issue brought to you by: Editor—Steve Gruhn assisted by Dawn Munroe Hut Needs and Notes Cover Photo If you are headed to one of the MCA huts, please consult the Hut Gabe Hayden high on Devils Paw. Inventory and Needs on the website (http://www.mtnclubak.org/ Photo by Brette Harrington index.cfm/Huts/Hut-Inventory-and-Needs) or Greg Bragiel, MCA Huts Committee Chairman, at either [email protected] or (907) 350-5146 to see what needs to be taken to the huts or repaired. All JANUARY MEETING huts have tools and materials so that anyone can make basic re- Wednesday, January 8, at 6:30 p.m. at the BP Energy Center at pairs. Hutmeisters are needed for each hut: If you have a favorite 1014 Energy Court in Anchorage. -
Keeping It Wild in the National Park Service
Wilderness Stewardship Division National Park Service Wilderness Stewardship Program U.S. Department of the Interior Keeping It Wild in the National Park Service A USER GUIDE TO INTEGRATING WILDERNESS CHARACTER INTO PARK PLANNING, MANAGEMENT, AND MONITORING Keeping it Wild in the National Park Service A User Guide to Integrating Wilderness Character into Park Planning, Management, and Monitoring National Park Service | U.S. Department of the Interior Wilderness Stewardship Division | Wilderness Stewardship Program January 2014 Cover photos: (Top) NPS/Suzy Stutzman, Great Sand Dunes Wilderness, Great Sand Dunes National Park (Left) NPS/Peter Landres, recommended wilderness, Canyonlands National Park (Right) NPS/Peter Landres, recommended wilderness, Cedar Breaks National Monument KEEPING IT WILD IN THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE A USER GUIDE TO INTEGRATING WILDERNESS CHARACTER INTO PARK PLANNING, MANAGEMENT, AND MONITORING Developed by the National Park Service Wilderness Character Integration Team with funding and support from the NPS Office of Park Planning and Special Studies and the Wilderness Stewardship Division A Companion Document to the 2014 Wilderness Stewardship Plan Handbook: Planning to Preserve Wilderness Character WASO 909/121797; January 2014 EXECUTIVE SummARY This User Guide was developed to help National Park Service (NPS) staff effectively and efficiently fulfill the mandate from the 1964 Wilderness Act and NPS policy to “preserve wilderness character” now and into the future. This mandate applies to all congressionally designated wilderness and other park lands that are, by policy, managed as wilderness, including eligible, potential, proposed, or recommended wilderness. This User Guide builds on the ideas in Keeping It Wild: An Interagency Strategy to Monitor Trends in Wilderness Character Across the National Wilderness Preservation System (Landres and others 2008). -
2001-2002 Bouldering Campaign
Climber: Angela Payne at Hound Ears Bouldering Comp Photo: John Heisel John Comp Photo: Bouldering Ears at Hound Payne Climber: Angela 2001-20022001-2002 BoulderingBouldering CampaignCampaign The Access Fund’s bouldering campaign hit bouldering products. Access Fund corporate and the ground running last month when a number community partners enthusiastically expressed of well-known climbers signed on to lend their their support for the goals and initiatives of support for our nationwide effort to: the bouldering campaign at the August •Raise awareness about bouldering among land Outdoor Retailer Trade Show held in Salt Lake managers and the public City. •Promote care and respect for natural places As part of our effort to preserve opportuni- visited by boulderers ties for bouldering, a portion of our grants pro- •Mobilize the climbing community to act gram will be targeted toward projects which responsibly and work cooperatively with land specifically address bouldering issues. Already, managers and land owners two grants that improve access and opportuni- •To protect and rehabilitate bouldering ties for bouldering have been awarded (more resources details about those grants can be found in this •Preserve bouldering access issue.) Grants will also be given to projects that •Help raise awareness and spread the message involve reducing recreational impacts at boul- about the campaign, inspirational posters fea- dering sites. The next deadline for grant appli- turing Tommy Caldwell, Lisa Rands and Dave cations is February 15, 2002. Graham are being produced that will include a Another key initiative of the bouldering simple bouldering “code of ethics” that encour- campaign is the acquisition of a significant ages climbers to: •Pad Lightly bouldering area under threat. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable. -
Sport Retail Price List Fall 2008 Petzl America
Sport Retail Price List Fall 2008 Petzl America Freeport Center M-7 / PO Box 160447 Clearfield, UT 84016 U.S.A. telephone (801) 926-1500 / fax (801) 926-1501 e-mail: [email protected] Sport Retail Pricelist northHeader american distribution Sport Retail Price List Effective July 1 - December 31, 2008 Prices are subject to change without notice Ref # Description Retail (US$) Rope - Dynamic - DURATEC DRY RD8260 _1 DRAGONFLY half rope 8.2mm x 60m Green or Orange 169.95 RD8270 -1 DRAGONFLY half rope 8.2mm x 70m Green or Orange 199.95 RD9460 _1 FUSE rope 9.4mm x 60m, Green or Blue 209.95 RD9470 _1 FUSE rope 9.4mm x 70m, Green or Blue 239.95 RD9860 _1 NOMAD rope 9.8mm x 60m, Green or Red 209.95 RD9870 _1 NOMAD rope 9.8mm x 70m, Green or Red 239.95 RD10350 _1 ZEPHYR rope 10.3mm x 50m, Red or Blue 179.95 RD10360 _1 ZEPHYR rope 10.3mm x 60m, Red or Blue 209.95 RD10370 _1 ZEPHYR rope 10.3mm x 70m, Red or Blue 249.95 RD107200_1 DOJO rope 10.7mm x 200m, Red or Blue 649.95 Rope - Vector Static R1146 W VECTOR rope 11mm x 46m (150 ft), White 130.00 R1146 _ VECTOR rope 11mm x 46m (150 ft), N=Black, B=Blue, R=Red 150.00 R1161 W VECTOR rope 11mm x 61m (200 ft), White 175.00 R1161 _ VECTOR rope 11mm x 61m (200 ft), N=Black, B=Blue, R=Red 200.00 R11183 W VECTOR rope 11mm x 183m (600 ft), White 520.00 R11183 _ VECTOR rope 11mm x 183m (600 ft), N=Black, B=Blue, R=Red 600.00 Rope - Accessories & Protection RC2 ROPE CUTTER II electric knife 159.95 R40 _ STANDARD ROPE BAG B=Blue, O=Orange, Y=Yellow, R=Red, N=Black 32.95 R41 _ ROPE BUCKET B=Blue, O=Orange, -
Ordinary Meeting Held on 23/11/2020
Queensland Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Queensland Climbing Community 1 Acknowledgement We proudly acknowledge Queensland’s First Nations peoples and their ongoing strength in practising one of the world’s oldest living cultures. We acknowledge the Traditional Owners of the lands and waters on which we live, work, recreate, and pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future. We recognise that there are long-lasting, far-reaching and intergenerational consequences of colonisation, dispossession and separation from Country. We acknowledge that the impact and structures of colonisation still exist today, and that all peoples have a responsibility to transform its systems and services so that Aboriginal Queenslanders can be the ones to hold decision-making power over the matters that affect their lives. We also acknowledge that Aboriginal self-determination is a human right enshrined in the United Nations Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples, and recognise the hard work of many generations of Aboriginal people who have fought for this right to be upheld. This document is intended to act as a guide for the Queensland Public Service, Volunteer organisations, and for personal action, to enable Aboriginal self-determination and provide possible solutions to ensure protection of valuable Cultural Heritage and the Environment for the future of all. QUEENSLAND CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 NOVEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Queensland Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Queensland climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. -
The Fork in the Wilderness Road (It Was ‘Time to Look in the Mirror’)
THE ZEPHYR CHRONICLES CONTINUE... The Fork in the Wilderness Road (It was ‘Time to Look in the Mirror’) August/September 2014 Volume 26 Number 3 Celebrating 25 Years THE ZEPHYR/ AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014 [email protected] this requires would be devastating. I can- dor promoted in the early 90s, which was BOOK CLIFFS HIGHWAY UPDATE not overstate how much destruction would vigorously opposed by many Grand County & SOME THOUGHTS ON occur if this project went forward. It would citizens. “PRODUCTION v CONSUMPTION require the removal of every plant and tree, from one edge of the canyon floor to the Now, Jackson has predicted that the on- other, for 20 miles, to accommodate the going feasibility studies will indeed con- Four months ago, the Grand County scale of the proposal. clude the Sego Canyon route is not viable. I Council presented a proposal to build an hope he’s right, because to build that road, “energy transportation corridor” via Sego Last month, Grand County Council Chair via that route, would prove to be one of the Canyon, through the Book Cliffs, to pos- Lynn Jackson, who helped spearhead the greatest environmental disasters since the sible oil development sites in the northern Sego Canyon plan, suggested that the fea- construction of Glen Canyon Dam. tip of Grand County. The plan included sibility studies being performed for Grand the creation of a paved But if Jackson’s highway, for energy prediction holds transportation and tour- true, that leaves ism, that would have Hay Canyon and linked Vernal, Utah with we’re right back I-70 and other recre- where we were 20 ation destinations in years ago. -
2010 Metolius Climbing 2
2010 METOLIUS CLIMBING 2 It’s shocking to think that it’s been twenty-five years since we cranked up the Metolius Climbing machine, and 2010 marks our 25th consecutive year in business! Wow! Getting our start in Doug Phillips’ tiny garage near the headwaters of the Metolius River (from where we take our name), none of us could have envisioned where climbing would be in 25 years or that we would even still be in the business of making climbing gear. In the 1980s, the choices one had for climbing equipment were fairly limited & much of the gear then was un-tested, uncomfortable, inadequate or unavailable. Many solved this problem by making their own equipment, the Metolius crew included. 3 (1) Smith Rock, Oregon ~ 1985 Mad cranker Kim Carrigan seen here making Much has changed in the last 2 ½ decades since we rolled out our first products. The expansion we’ve seen has been mind-blowing the 2nd ascent of Latest Rage. Joined by fellow Aussie Geoff Wiegand & the British hardman Jonny Woodward, this was one of the first international crews to arrive at Smith and tear the and what a journey it’s been. The climbing life is so full of rich and rewarding experiences that it really becomes the perfect place up. The lads made many early repeats in the dihedrals that year. These were the days metaphor for life, with its triumphs and tragedies, hard-fought battles, whether won or lost, and continuous learning and growing. when 5.12 was considered cutting edge and many of these routes were projected and a few of Over time, we’ve come to figure out what our mission is and how we fit into the big picture. -
Response to Comments
Response to Comments Table of Contents 1.0 Collation Summary ......................................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Background ................................................................................................................................................ 1 1.2 Comment Procedure ................................................................................................................................... 1 1.3 Comment Tracking Method ........................................................................................................................ 2 2.0 Comments and Responses ............................................................................................................................... 2 3.0 Letters from Indian Tribes and Government Agencies ............................................................................... 238 Response to Comments Index By Resource Area: 02.0 – Non-Substantive Comments ............................................................................................................................... 3 03.0 – Out-of-Scope Comments .................................................................................................................................. 13 05.0 – General Comments ........................................................................................................................................... 29 10.0 – Climate and Snow Comments..........................................................................................................................