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Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land Page 9
VERTICAL TIMESSection The National Publication of the Access Fund Winter 09/Volume 86 www.accessfund.org Wrestling with Liability: Encouraging Climbing on Private Land page 9 CHOOSING YOUR COnseRvatION STRateGY 6 THE NOTORIOUS HORsetOOTH HanG 7 Winter 09 Vertical Times 1 QUeen CReeK/OaK Flat: NEGOTIATIONS COntINUE 12 AF Perspective “ All the beautiful sentiments in the world weigh less than a single lovely action.” — James Russell Lowell irst of all, I want to take a moment to thank you for all you’ve done to support us. Without members and donors like you, we would fall short F of accomplishing our goals. I recently came across some interesting statistics in the Outdoor Foundation’s annual Outdoor Recreation Participation Report. In 2008, 4.7 million people in the United States participated in bouldering, sport climbing, or indoor climbing, and 2.3 million people went trad climbing, ice climbing, or mountaineering. It is also interesting to note that less than 1% of these climbers are members of the Access Fund. And the majority of our support comes from membership. We are working on climbing issues all across the country, from California to Maine. While we have had many successes and our reach is broad, just imagine what would be possible if we were able to increase our membership base: more grants, more direct support of local climbing organizations, and, ultimately, more climbing areas open and protected. We could use your help. Chances are a number of your climbing friends and partners aren’t current Access Fund members. Please take a moment to tell them about our work and the impor- tance of joining us, not to mention benefits like discounts on gear, grants for local projects, timely information and alerts about local access issues, and a subscrip- tion to the Vertical Times. -
Equipement Été En Anglais.Wps
Copie interdite Basic list to personify if necessary Your backpack : Put the voluminous and light gear such as the sleeping bag and after the heavy stuff next to your back. Finish with the spare gear and the technics gear that you will probabely used first. Put the small stuff (gloves, sunglasses, identity paper...) in the camera pocket. SUMMER EQUIPMENT FOND DE SAC TECHNIC GEAR CLOTHS, OTHER GEAR… CLIMBING SCHOOL Small backpack Helmet, mountain harness, double safety strap with locking A thin pant or short, tee-shirt, sweet, rocks boot, Rain cloths carabiners, 1 big locking carabiner, 1 descendeur, 1,80 m of thin water Sunglasses rope in 7 mm. Sun hat ICE SCHOOL Smal backpack Helmet, mountain harness, ice axe, crampons (well-ordered), Alpine pant, sweet, polaire, mountaineering boots Breathable shell clothing 1 big locking carabiner, 1 icecraw, 1 normal carabiner (leather if possible) , lunches + water Glacier sunglasses Small gloves, ski-cap Sun cream VIA-FERRATA Sunglasses Helmet, mountain harness, special double safety strap with locking A light pant or short, tee-shirt, sweet, hiking boots, (if carabiners; 1 oser big locking carabiner long trail : lunches + waters) If long trail : Small backpack Small leather gloves K-way or stop-wind jacket CANYONING Neoprene shoes Specific helmet, protected harness, , double safety strap with 1 Complete Neoprene clothes, swimsuit, old trainer normal carabiner and 1 locking carabiner, 1 huit descendeur (or shoes (one size highter), towel , (if long trail : spécific) lunches + waters) GLACIER HIKING -
Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an -
Gear Brands List & Lexicon
Gear Brands List & Lexicon Mountain climbing is an equipment intensive activity. Having good equipment in the mountains increases safety and your comfort level and therefore your chance of having a successful climb. Alpine Ascents does not sell equipment nor do we receive any outside incentive to recommend a particular brand name over another. Our recommendations are based on quality, experience and performance with your best interest in mind. This lexicon represents years of in-field knowledge and experience by a multitude of guides, teachers and climbers. We have found that by being well-equipped on climbs and expeditions our climbers are able to succeed in conditions that force other teams back. No matter which trip you are considering you can trust the gear selection has been carefully thought out to every last detail. People new to the sport often find gear purchasing a daunting chore. We recommend you examine our suggested brands closely to assist in your purchasing decisions and consider renting gear whenever possible. Begin preparing for your trip as far in advance as possible so that you may find sale items. As always we highly recommend consulting our staff of experts prior to making major equipment purchases. A Word on Layering One of the most frequently asked questions regarding outdoor equipment relates to clothing, specifically (and most importantly for safety and comfort), proper layering. There are Four basic layers you will need on most of our trips, including our Mount Rainier programs. They are illustrated below: Underwear -
Ski Mountaineering Camp Packet
Mount Hood Intro to Ski Mountaineering Camp Mount Hood, Oregon June 22-24, 2021 Level: 14 and Older A girls-only introduction to ski mountaineering camp on Mount Hood, Oregon. The camp will include an all-female professional guide team and education on ski mountaineering fundamentals. Itinerary: June 22nd 3-5pm: Orientation Guides will meet the girls participating in this camp at 3pm to go over the following: • Expectations/ goals for the camp • Safety briefing • Gear check • Tips on how to pack your pack June 23rd: Ski Mountaineering Day School Meet time: TBD Guides will meet the girls at the base of Timberline ski area. From the top of the lifts they will tour above the ski area and review skills for the summit attempt the following day. This will include ice axe self-arrest, how to use crampons, basic skinning techniques, rope travel and other skills that the guides think will be important to cover before the summit attempt. Following the field day guides will review the day with the girls and review the plan for the summit day! June 24th: Summit Attempt Guides and athletes will meet at the base of Timberline ski area and make an attempt to ski off the summit (weather and route conditions depending). If all goes according to plan, guides and athletes will ride the chairlift to the top of the ski area. They will make their summit attempt from there dependent on conditions and weather. If conditions do not allow us to ski off the summit, guides will make that decision and we have the option to leave our skis at various places on the route. -
Tacoma Intermediate Snow Skills Curriculum 2019
Tacoma Intermediate Snow Skills Curriculum 2019 Purpose: Build competent basic glacier rope leaders ● Ensure Intermediate student understanding and knowledge of basic skills/topics so they may adequately teach basic students ● Build on student knowledge of basic skills: ○ Critical thinking through the steps of crevasse rescue and the haul systems ○ Snow anchors ○ Snow belays ● Discuss circumstances and decision making on a glacier climb ● Start introducing 2 person team travel ● Building the community - Have a good time and give the students a chance to get to know each other. Required Reading: Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 9th Edition, Chapter 3 - Camping, Food, and Water Chapter 16 - Snow Travel and Climbing Chapter 17 - Avalanche Safety Chapter 18 - Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue Chapter 27 - The Cycle of Snow Snow Anchors for Belaying and Rescue. D. Bogie, A. Fortini. Backing up an Anchor for Crevasse Rescue. L. Goldie. Self Arrest with Crampons. J. Martin. Drop Loop Crevasse Rescue by Gregg Gagliardi Crevasse rescue videos by AMGA instructor Jeff Ward: ● How to Rope Up for Glacier Travel ● How to Transfer a Fallen Climber's Weight to a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue ● How to Back Up a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue ● How to Rappel Into and Ascend Out of a Crevasse ● How to Prepare a Crevasse Lip for Rescue ● How to Haul a Climber Out of a Crevasse Recommended Reading: Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain, 2nd edition. Bruce Tremper, ISBN 1594850844 Snow Sense. J.Fredston and D.Fester, ISBN 0964399407 Snow Travel: Skills for Climbing, Hiking, and Moving Over Snow. M. Zawaski. General design principles 1. -
South America and Antarctica 1993
DAVID SHARMAN South America and Antarctica 1993 Thanks are due to Marcelo Scanu, Gerhard Feichtenschlager, Pavle Kozjek and Franci Savenc for their invaluable contributions. Most of the activity this year has continued to centre on the developed countries of Argentina and Chile where an increasing number of teams are producing committing big-wall routes in a variety of styles. In Peru the situation continues to improve, with Slovenians notably active this summer. Venezuela Aratitiyope Paul Ridgeway, Todd Skinner, Paul Piana and a camera crew made a difficult approach through jungle to attempt the second ascent of Boivin's 1984 route up a prominent rib on the right side of the 600m E face of this flat-topped tower. Peru - Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash Both the weather and the security situation were considerably more set tled in Peru this year with New Zealand climbers returning to the Huay huash after a long absence following the 1988 shootout. They made an attempt on the W face of Yerupaja, stopping just short of the summit. Slovenians dominated the new route scene in the Blanca where general levels of activity continued to rise. Artesonraju (6025m) On 9July 1993 Tomo Sbrizaj and Sebastian Semrajc climbed the SE face via a direct line up the triangular rock buttress to a junction with the normal route. On 18 July they returned with Borut Naglic and repeated the route, Triangle, continuing to the summit (TD+ 60°- 85° III 600m). Andre Kecman and Dusan Kosir climbed the snowy SW face through seracs on the left side but it is not clear how this differs from' previous ascents of this face. -
Reviving We Can't Hear a Historical Race That Hasn't Been Run How to Take in Over 70 Years Great Action Shots Like the One on This Cover Tableofcontents
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2014 • VOLUME 108 • NO. 1 MountaineerEXPLORE • LEARN • CONSERVE exciting and unpredictable mixed climbing mentoring women in the lead listening to animals reviving we can't hear a historical race that hasn't been run how to take in over 70 years great action shots like the one on this cover tableofcontents Jan/Feb 2014 » Volume 108 » Number 1 Enriching the community by helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. 14 Mountaineers to the Rescue The Pierce County Red Cross honors six Mountaineers 18 Beauty of Unpredictability An interview with mixed-climber Roger Strong 22 Women in the Lead 10 An all-female climbing mentor group led by Stef Schiller 23 Have Camera Will Capture Mike Warren discusses his outdoor photography tricks 6 DONOR HIGHLIGHT Bill Hecker with a vision of world-class climbing 7 Impact GIVING The plan to add friction slabs 8 OUTDOOR Education Sisters of Adventure by Carolyn and Isabelle Stratford 10 Conservation currents 18 The importance and conservation of bees 12 nature'S waY Experts on sound, from underwater to extinction 16 MEMBER HIGHLIGHT Nina Crampton and her 10 essential answers 28 RETRO rewinD The Patrol Race is back after over 70 years 23 DiscOVER THE MOuntaineers Mountaineer magazine would like to thank The Mountaineers If you are thinking of joining—or have joined and aren’t sure where to Foundation for its financial assistance. The Foundation operates start—why not set a date to Meet The Mountainers? Check the as a separate organization from The Mountaineers, which has received about one-third of the Foundation’s gifts to various Branching Out section of the magazine (page 32) for times and nonprofit organizations. -
What Is a T-Nut and How Does It Work? How Do You Fasten ʻbolt-Onʼ
What is a T-nut and how does it work? How do you fasten ʻBolt-onʼ climbing holds to wood climbing walls? This guide is intended to be a quick explanation for customers who are brand new to climbing. Prior to fastening bolt-on climbing holds to wood climbing walls, t-nuts must be installed in the back of the climbing wall. The bolt will go through the climbing hold, through the wood, and into the t-nut. A t-nut is basically a nut with a flange on one side. The barrel of the t-nut can fit into a 7/16” hole, but the flange is 1” wide so it cannot fit through the hole. The flange catches the surface of the climbing wall surrounding the 7/16” hole. The Barrel of the T-nut should be recessed behind the front surface of the climbing wall by at least 1/ 4”. Climbing holds must not make di- rect contact with the t-nut. If the climbing hold makes direct con- tact with the t-nut it will eliminate the friction between the surface of the climbing wall and the back of the climbing hold. Climbing holds must have good contact with the climbing wall in order to be secure. Selecting the proper length bolts: Every climbing hold has a different shape and structure. Because of these variations, the depth of the bolt hole varies from one climbing hold to another. Frogs 20 Pack Example: The 20 pack of Frogs Jugs to the right consists of several different shaped grips. -
OUTDOOR ROCK CLIMBING INTENSIVE INTRODUCTION Boulder, CO EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST
www.alpineinstitute.com [email protected] Equipment Shop: 360-671-1570 Administrative Office: 360-671-1505 The Spirit of Alpinism OUTDOOR ROCK CLIMBING INTENSIVE INTRODUCTION Boulder, CO EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST This equipment list is aimed to help you bring only the essential gear for your mountain adventures. Please read this list thoroughly, but exercise common sense when packing for your trip. Climbs in the summer simply do not require as much clothing as those done in the fall or spring. Please pack accordingly and ask questions if you are uncertain. CLIMATE: Temperatures and weather conditions in Boulder area are often conducive to great climbing conditions. Thunderstorms, however, are somewhat common and intense rainstorms often last a few hours in the afternoons. Daytime highs range anywhere from 50°F to 80°F. GEAR PREPARATION: Please take the time to carefully prepare and understand your equipment. If possible, it is best to use it in the field beforehand. Take the time to properly label and identify all personal gear items. Many items that climbers bring are almost identical. Your name on a garment tag or a piece of colored electrical tape is an easy way to label your gear; fingernail polish on hard goods is excellent. If using tape or colored markers, make sure your labeling method is durable and water resistant. ASSISTANCE: At AAI we take equipment and its selection seriously. Our Equipment Services department is expertly staffed by climbers, skiers and guides. Additionally, we only carry products in our store have been thoroughly field tested and approved by our guides. This intensive process ensures that all equipment that you purchase from AAI is best suited to your course and future mountain adventures. -
Sometimes the Leader Does Fall... a Look Into the Experiences of Ice Climbers Who Have Fallen on Ice Screws
SOMETIMES THE LEADER DOES FALL... A LOOK INTO THE EXPERIENCES OF ICE CLIMBERS WHO HAVE FALLEN ON ICE SCREWS Kel Rossiter Ed.D., Educational Leadership & Policy Studies--M.S., Kinesiology/Outdoor Education AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide INTRODUCTION/BACKGROUND Last winter a climber with Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine was asking me about the holding power of ice screws. We discussed the various lab studies that have been done (a list of links to some interesting ones can be found at the bottom of this paper) then he said, “That's great, but has anyone ever specifically done research into how they actually perform in the field?” He had a point. While the dictum in ice climbing is that “the leader never falls,” in the end, they sometimes do. So presumably there was an ample population from which to sample— but I was unaware of any actual field research done with this population. So, fueled by that question, I decided to explore the topic. The results of this inquiry appear below. Though I have a background in research, make no mistake: This presentation of findings should not be viewed through the same lens as academic research. Aside from running it by a few academic-climber friends there has been only an informal peer review, there are significant short-comings in the methodology (noted below), and ideas are put forth that don't necessarily build directly on prior research (largely because—as noted—there really hasn't been much research on the topic and much less field research). In addition, this write up is not done in the typical “5 Part” research format of Introduction, Methodology, Results, Analysis, and Conclusion. -
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines
Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines Compiled for the Victorian Climbing Community Revision: V04 Published: 15 Sept 2020 1 Contributing Authors: Matthew Brooks - content manager and writer Ashlee Hendy Leigh Hopkinson Kevin Lindorff Aaron Lowndes Phil Neville Matthew Tait Glenn Tempest Mike Tomkins Steven Wilson Endorsed by: Crag Stewards Victoria VICTORIAN CLIMBING MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES V04 15 SEPTEMBER 2020 2 Foreword - Consultation Process for The Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines The need for a process for the Victorian climbing community to discuss widely about best rock-climbing practices and how these can maximise safety and minimise impacts of crag environments has long been recognised. Discussions on these themes have been on-going in the local Victorian and wider Australian climbing communities for many decades. These discussions highlighted a need to broaden the ways for climbers to build collaborative relationships with Traditional Owners and land managers. Over the years, a number of endeavours to build and strengthen such relationships have been undertaken; Victorian climbers have been involved, for example, in a variety of collaborative environmental stewardship projects with Land Managers and Traditional Owners over the last two decades in particular, albeit in an ad hoc manner, as need for such projects have become apparent. The recent widespread climbing bans in the Grampians / Gariwerd have re-energised such discussions and provided a catalyst for reflection on the impacts of climbing, whether inadvertent or intentional, negative or positive. This has focussed considerations of how negative impacts on the environment or cultural heritage can be avoided or minimised and on those climbing practices that are most appropriate, respectful and environmentally sustainable.